Just wanted to came back 2 years later and say thanks so much for these videos. I made my first 1 and 2 part molds last week and achieved almost flawless results, well after a few goes at rotocasting anyway! With out this series I highly doubt I would have even tried but with the knowledge you two have shared it was almost easy. My next adventure will be a mask so I am sure I'll be rewatching those videos again a ton before I start pouring the rebound!
You can also get a silicone degasser to help prevent air bubbles getting trapped in the mold. They aren't super expensive and can really help your casts be a little more consistent.
For my first couple two part molds, before I actually got proper mold release, I sprayed a couple coats of crystal clear coat to act as a barrier between the silicone halves. I think Frank talks about that on the Tested two part mold lightsaber video. Works pretty well in a pinch. And a good alternative.
One thing I discovered is that after the first part, you can draw around the outside with a sharpie so you can see where the two parts come apart. Either that or tint each part.
Awesome Video! This will help a lot in improving my mold making skills! You have served as a huuuuge source of inspiration for me in my prop building. I hope one day to be half as good as you are at prop making and costuming. Thank you for all the helpful videos and inspiration!
here is an unorthodox question (it may be a pretty silly one too).... if you were working with a smaller or medium sized mold, what would happen if you poured the resin into your mold, and then put the mold in the degassing chamber? would this help get air bubbles that are trapped in details on the piece? or would it cause some sort of insane reaction? i.e. damaging the mold itself, or actually adding more bubbles to the cast piece. I never see anyone do it, so i'm just curious if it would even work or what would happen if you did it. Loving the series so far, extremely helpful! looking forward to the next episode! cheers!
+Punished Props would a mini vibrating table help remove the bubbles from your molds. Much like they have vibration sticks in large construction to fill in the gaps and remove air bubbles use an old cell phone vibrator attached to a "floating" board to create a mini vibration for a few min
very nice video, I wanna start doing this at some point, with my twin kids (they're 3.5 years at the moment...). Thanks for sharing, and Keep on trucking ! (from France)
Just wondering, once you've poured your resin into the mold is it worth putting it in to the vacuum chamber. Will it make any difference with the bubbles?
have you thought about putting together a small kit (i.e. your logo) for people who want to try casting but are too nervous to buy the expensive silicon
Bill I noticed when shaking the mold for bubbles it can be messy. I know a tool fairly cheap . Buffalo Dental Lab Stone Mixer Vibrator No.1A Its a Vibrator for making stone molds or casts of peoples teeth. Being the stone can be a bit tough to work with IE bubble removal this tool would work well with Silicone/Resin materials as well.
Hello hello, I'm reviewing your whole casting mood video, because I'm starting to do a lot of casting. My question is, is it mandatory for a sword (mines are warglaives wow), to make from the first mold literally half of my sword? To avoid the seam, I mean, if it is better if the seam is on the side blade and there is no problem sanding it, what about the edge? Thank you already for your answer because Cast and Mold is stressful the first times
Yes. There is a video on making a lightsaber mold. Same idea. Clay halfway up. Pour half of mold. Remove clay, coat in release agent, pour second half.
@@cryd1239 sure! Add a straw sticking out the axis of your initial clay sculpt, or even a chopstick. When removed, it makes a perfect tract to the center. I made a hollow bat like that. Roto cast/ slush cast that way. Smoothon 325 is clear, so I added glow in the dark powder.
hello, taking on a bit of a hobby project, molding a vaporizer mod box. Its two pieces, a this cover that slides into notches, and the bottom have that will have the battery sled and all the electronic components. The bottom half is whats giving me pause. My plan is to mold it with the hollow part facing up, with a clay cylinder added to what is the left side to pour in resin to the mold. Does that sound feasible? Open question to any one that takes a look at this
I am casting, not with resin, but with more silicone in my silicone two part mold. Do I still use baby powder like how it is used in the video at 5:11 or do I just add more Mann Ease Release to both parts of my mold?
There are a lot of Resin to choose from as you mentioned. To make a gun mold that will be subjected to contact with approximately 330 degree Kydex, is there a preferred resin to handle this? Thanks a bunch!
I also wanted to say you do some great videos. Thank you very much. I've used your videos and others to help jump start my cosplay game from simple found materia costumes to creating my own stuff from scratch. I will check out that Patreon page.
I've seen many people using legos to make walls for their molds, any thought about this method Bill? Your videos help a lot, even in the other side of the ocean, thank u so much from France!
Can you use rebound 25 for this method? And do you guys have any videos that could help me figure out the best way to make a mold of an axe head with a hole through the middle of it for the wooden handle to go in?
A question unrelated tot mold making. Do you use some sort of lighting rig when recording video, or do you just use whatever light you have available in your shop?
Is there a real reason for casting a prop if you are only intending to do a 1 off? I'm working on a good solid MDF gun, but is there a benefit to casting it in resin for just me? Keep up the great vids!
Loving the series so far. Your style is great and it's obvious you've put a hell of a lot of work into the videos. One question, when you say do a little dance is there one you recommend like say the cha cha or would a two step do. Just asking.....
Mission accomplished I am inspired! I want to cast a statue I've made. If i don't have a degasser will the finished product be ugly and full of bubbles? It is a fine object with lots of small details and smooth skin surfaces ect.
You can use the "bombs away" method for pouring the silicone. This will help free any air bubbles. Tutorial video: th-cam.com/video/NVvGc7VDFvc/w-d-xo.htmlm7s
its the vents that are stumping me, im going to be moulding a face hugger, im guessing 2 part but i have no clue where to place the vents or wether im better off dismantling my sculpture and doing 3 seperate ones, legs, body, tail.
Thank you for sharing this information with us. Extremely informative. I have a question, if anyone knows the answer. I need to make a 2 piece mold to cast a car part that is made of rubber. I need to know what needs to be done to the master to insure the silicone will not stick to it? I was told I could coat it with Vaseline before pouring the silicone, but wondering if this is the only option, or if there are other methods? I will be using polyurethane for the copy.
Will your final cast be in rubber as well? Typically your mold material should be the opposite of your casting material - so silicone for hard resin casts, and resin molds for flexible silicone/rubber casts. Mold release will be your friend as far as getting the silicone not to stick. I highly recommend asking the folks at Smooth-On about this, as they give awesome advice and can even recommend specific materials for you to use: www.smooth-on.com/support/
The final cast will be Urethane Casting Compound, 80A Hardness. The original part I need to copy is the lower rear coil spring seat. They are rubber. I'll need to make at least two copies of them, so the mold will need to be reusable. I'll contact Smooth-on and give them the details and see what they suggest. Thank you very much for helping me with this.
@@punishedprops Thanks again for your help and sharing your knowledge with us. Using Mold Star 30, Mann Ease Release 200 and McMaster-Carr Urethane Casting Compound, 60A Hardness I was able to reproduce the part I needed.
having a bit of a panic attack cause my mold won't split apart.... how long did it take pry the two parts apart? I've been at it for like an hour (i used ease release 200 on mold star 30 silicone)
Hey Bill and Brit ! Could you guys please post a link to files you used to 3d print that NN-44 blaster? Would be super happy to print it and follow along with you :)
So here's a thought. Since NSP can melt, would it be a viable technique to heat some up until it's runny, and then pour it around your master for a perfect 90 degree seam clay base?
If my master is made of plasticene clay (I have sculpted a figure), what material should I use to make the form of the mold before pouring my silicone? In your video your master is made of hard plastic and you use plasticene for creating your half-mold before pouring your first half of silicone. What material would work easily?
You can also use clay but a different kind. Frequently if our master is Monster clay, we'll clay the mold with Plastaline - you can probably use Monster clay or something similar for your mold.
Very educational. I'm enjoying this series and can't wait to try the two part mold on my pieces when they are finished. Quick question, which type of molding would be best for a halo/space marine helmet?
What about if you have inner cavity that need to be just as accurate as the outside? Would primed wood be ok to set into and extend thru a 2 part mold?
Question, I used a spray release and I never got two parts mold, then I have to cut it. I spray 3 times and wait like 1 minute between each time I sprayed. What i did wrong? Other question, Can I use a Lego block to make a walls mold and then put Vaseline/ I saw I videos about it but Im not sure if this work
I'm not exactly sure, but my guess is that you didn't use the appropriate mold release. I like Ease Release 200 for silicone. You should only need one good layer of the release sprayed on the cured half of the silicone. You can definitely use Lego for mold walls. You don't need to put Vaseline on the legos. The silicone will not bond to the plastic.
Heya! Great tutorial, can't wait to try it out! I have a Question though.. If you make the master object out of clay, how does that work? I assume you can't really add clay to a clay master object, because it'll stick and you will lose detail.
Is there any alternative to mold release for silicone on silicone, cause I'm just going to make the one two part mold and I see it a little pointless to buy the spray and pay for shipping.also do I have to treat bondo with anything before pouring silicone on it.
Hello, I'm trying to make a cast of a horse with a knight on top. Having all four legs is making work difficult. The mold looks good but then cut the silicone and separate the part ... I can not! Do you have any video that teaches you to do such a thing? Thank you
I don't specifically. I probably would have made that a multi part mold instead. Look up "jewelers cut" on TH-cam for some videos on cutting open molds.
hello i have a mechanical object that has lines that act as gaps to the inside what is the best way to fill the holes on something? I want to mold an airsoft pistol if that helps to make a mold for kydex. But am unsure if i should maybe use clay inside the gaps? or tape it off? any tips or advice as i dont want to ruin the pistol im trying to mold but if it gets a little gummy or stained im ok with it. Thank you!
Clay is usually the go-to for temporarily filling gaps. WED or Monster clay is oil-based and used the most for mold making because you can reheat it as often as you like and it won't ever dry out. There are also wax-based clays that achieve the same effect. If you want to permanently fill gaps you can use any kind of body filler. Wood filler and Bondo and other similar materials would do the trick, and can be sanded down afterwards for a smooth finish. - Paige
Hi Bill. what is that piece of mdf on Reys' mold for? I assume in the end, it consumes more resin? What is the benefit? thanks a lot for the video!!! *-)
Is there anyway to help the pour viscosity of older resin? When I tried to pour resin into my mold it cures faster then i can get it into the mold. It isn't even a very large mold. Also I am curious who sells that curved hobby knife?
Don’t know about the rest of your questions but he bent that hobby knife himself so he could cut some registration into the silicone as he released the master object
New to mould making. Cant seem to find anywhere in the uk who sells smooth on.... Which is what everyone one youtube seems to use. Is there an alternative that i can get in the uk?
I'm loving this series! Super informative. Have you tried any other alternatives for making molds (other than silicone)? I've seen some smaller casts using brands like Composimold, but I'm not sure how well it would work with resin casts of a larger prop
Greetings from the UK. Love your videos, I'm new to this and keen to get my first silicone mold project on the go. One question - does the urethane casting material suffer from captive bubbles in the same way the silicone does, and does it need vaccing or pouring from a height? Cheers
Bubbles can be an issue urethane castings. Designing good vents helps, but if they're a real problem in your castings a pressure pot is the best way to solve it.
How should i go about making a food safe mold and cast it? I want to make a custom design 3d printed hamburger patty maker out of plastic but i have read that simply 3d printing it even with something like PETG is not really food safe. can this be done safely with a mold from a 3d print then casting it with a food safe resin? any tips?
If you're wanting to make a mold for food then you can 3D print it and fill in the gaps with whatever filler you want, then coat it with a food safe resin for use. Max Clear, for example, is an industrial strength, FDA approved food safe resin coating. - Paige
Thanks a lot for your response! I will look into doing this with a Food safe resin coating as you kindly suggested. unfortunately i am in Germany and haven't been able to find Max Clear anywhere nearby to order. The shipping costs for the places i have found it are insanely large. I will look for a suitable alternative i guess. Oh btw, your channel is absolutely amazing!
Punished Props, what kind of resin can i use to make a model airplane. I need it to be durable but semi flexible so that it wont break easy. Please!!! let me know. I am trying to make the Avatar Valkyrie shuttle for my boys since they dont sell it anywhere.
Any thoughts on offering workshops anytime in the future? I know I would pay money to come learn on a weekend or something. I think I saw Artyfakes offers that kind of thing but I sure cant fly to Europe. Seattle would be much more affordable.
Just wanted to came back 2 years later and say thanks so much for these videos. I made my first 1 and 2 part molds last week and achieved almost flawless results, well after a few goes at rotocasting anyway! With out this series I highly doubt I would have even tried but with the knowledge you two have shared it was almost easy. My next adventure will be a mask so I am sure I'll be rewatching those videos again a ton before I start pouring the rebound!
That's wonderful news! Great job. =D
so much better than my first mold.
You can also get a silicone degasser to help prevent air bubbles getting trapped in the mold. They aren't super expensive and can really help your casts be a little more consistent.
I've never really had the courage to try molding, but I love watching the process. I'm glad I discovered your channel. Thanks!
Perfect video all on spot easy fast without any extra talks, very helpful ! Thank you!
Seriously, awesome! thanks, Bill! I'm working on a bunch of props and costumes for my sci-fi series and am binge-watching all your stuff... again...
man this series is a real god send Bill!
Watching you use the tools to smooth the clay from the edges was oddly satisfying :)
It's a zen process :)
For my first couple two part molds, before I actually got proper mold release, I sprayed a couple coats of crystal clear coat to act as a barrier between the silicone halves. I think Frank talks about that on the Tested two part mold lightsaber video. Works pretty well in a pinch. And a good alternative.
One thing I discovered is that after the first part, you can draw around the outside with a sharpie so you can see where the two parts come apart. Either that or tint each part.
many thanks....you explained this great....been doing 1 part molds for a year or so, but im going to need a 2 part soon.
Wonderful!
Alway the best videos. You should come back and revise this or updated the videos but can mess with the classic.
Omg that came out sooo good!!! Better than the original master
Thanks very much!
Awesome Video! This will help a lot in improving my mold making skills! You have served as a huuuuge source of inspiration for me in my prop building. I hope one day to be half as good as you are at prop making and costuming. Thank you for all the helpful videos and inspiration!
here is an unorthodox question (it may be a pretty silly one too).... if you were working with a smaller or medium sized mold, what would happen if you poured the resin into your mold, and then put the mold in the degassing chamber? would this help get air bubbles that are trapped in details on the piece? or would it cause some sort of insane reaction? i.e. damaging the mold itself, or actually adding more bubbles to the cast piece. I never see anyone do it, so i'm just curious if it would even work or what would happen if you did it.
Loving the series so far, extremely helpful! looking forward to the next episode!
cheers!
+Punished Props would a mini vibrating table help remove the bubbles from your molds. Much like they have vibration sticks in large construction to fill in the gaps and remove air bubbles use an old cell phone vibrator attached to a "floating" board to create a mini vibration for a few min
very nice video, I wanna start doing this at some point, with my twin kids (they're 3.5 years at the moment...).
Thanks for sharing, and Keep on trucking ! (from France)
Just wondering, once you've poured your resin into the mold is it worth putting it in to the vacuum chamber. Will it make any difference with the bubbles?
Does it also work if you use plaster of Paris instead of resin for the actual piece????
Good coverage of the basics. Thanks Bill!
have you thought about putting together a small kit (i.e. your logo) for people who want to try casting but are too nervous to buy the expensive silicon
Superb video. Honestly. Clear and concise. Thank you.
How effective is this technique for casting large objects like a sword? what tips would you suggest for when a mold becomes particularly large?
Bill I noticed when shaking the mold for bubbles it can be messy. I know a tool fairly cheap . Buffalo Dental Lab Stone Mixer Vibrator No.1A Its a Vibrator for making stone molds or casts of peoples teeth. Being the stone can be a bit tough to work with IE bubble removal this tool would work well with Silicone/Resin materials as well.
Hello hello, I'm reviewing your whole casting mood video, because I'm starting to do a lot of casting. My question is, is it mandatory for a sword (mines are warglaives wow), to make from the first mold literally half of my sword? To avoid the seam, I mean, if it is better if the seam is on the side blade and there is no problem sanding it, what about the edge? Thank you already for your answer because Cast and Mold is stressful the first times
Can you reuse the mold for other projects, get it back to liquid or is the mold trash?
I want to make a two part mould of an object which is mostly a hollow cylinder. Can this be done?
Yes. There is a video on making a lightsaber mold. Same idea. Clay halfway up. Pour half of mold. Remove clay, coat in release agent, pour second half.
@@hunhrrrright5453 Thank you! The cylinder is open at either end so not sure that method would work :(
@@cryd1239 sure! Add a straw sticking out the axis of your initial clay sculpt, or even a chopstick. When removed, it makes a perfect tract to the center. I made a hollow bat like that. Roto cast/ slush cast that way. Smoothon 325 is clear, so I added glow in the dark powder.
hello, taking on a bit of a hobby project, molding a vaporizer mod box. Its two pieces, a this cover that slides into notches, and the bottom have that will have the battery sled and all the electronic components. The bottom half is whats giving me pause. My plan is to mold it with the hollow part facing up, with a clay cylinder added to what is the left side to pour in resin to the mold. Does that sound feasible? Open question to any one that takes a look at this
Could you use foam board to make your box for your mold? The foam board you can buy at office supply stores that you would use as a display board.
How do you make the master though? What are good materials to make them out of like guns or weapons? Or pieces for armor?
I am casting, not with resin, but with more silicone in my silicone two part mold. Do I still use baby powder like how it is used in the video at 5:11 or do I just add more Mann Ease Release to both parts of my mold?
+SomeoneWithFreeTime You would need to use the Ease Release. Otherwise the silicone will bond to the mold, turning it into a solid block of rubber.
If I make a prop out of EVA Foam can I make a mold out of it right away ? Or does it need to be prepared in some first.
There are a lot of Resin to choose from as you mentioned. To make a gun mold that will be subjected to contact with approximately 330 degree Kydex, is there a preferred resin to handle this? Thanks a bunch!
Check out plaster jackets for the moulds. Saves a fortune on the silicone.
Can you post a link where you can get your tools like the razor blade do you use
Im definitely gonna make a mold of something!! Thanks for the awesome tutorials Bill!!
I also wanted to say you do some great videos. Thank you very much. I've used your videos and others to help jump start my cosplay game from simple found materia costumes to creating my own stuff from scratch. I will check out that Patreon page.
are there any other materials i can poor into the mold instead of urethane resin
Flying fantastic, thank you!
Thanks so much for watching!
I've seen many people using legos to make walls for their molds, any thought about this method Bill? Your videos help a lot, even in the other side of the ocean, thank u so much from France!
Late comment, but what if you've made your master out of plasteline clay? How do go about making the clay 1st part of the mould?
Can you pour silicone rubber liquid over polyurethane rubber items? I don't want them to stick together.
If the piece has a front (showing) and back, then which side do you recommend to do first?
Can you use rebound 25 for this method? And do you guys have any videos that could help me figure out the best way to make a mold of an axe head with a hole through the middle of it for the wooden handle to go in?
also, what would be the best silicone mold for a palm sized extremely reflective gold plated figurine?
I'd ask the folks at Smooth-On customer service! They're great at helping you figure out which of their products works best for your needs.
can you use silicone in the cast to get a rubbery mold? you probably have to use mold release on it first though right?
You can cast silicone from a silicone, but yes you really need to use mold release otherwise it'll all cure into a solid block of rubber.
whats your original props made of?
A question unrelated tot mold making. Do you use some sort of lighting rig when recording video, or do you just use whatever light you have available in your shop?
Is there a real reason for casting a prop if you are only intending to do a 1 off? I'm working on a good solid MDF gun, but is there a benefit to casting it in resin for just me? Keep up the great vids!
can we do this for rectangular bonsai pots ? maje a vid pls dude
Hello bill i was curious about what type of materials you use for making model masters?
Loving the series so far. Your style is great and it's obvious you've put a hell of a lot of work into the videos. One question, when you say do a little dance is there one you recommend like say the cha cha or would a two step do. Just asking.....
+Bill Doran Awesome, I think maybe some interpretive dance mixed with moshing might be my thing, I'll give it a go. Thanks :)
Which silicone do you use ???
Mission accomplished I am inspired! I want to cast a statue I've made. If i don't have a degasser will the finished product be ugly and full of bubbles? It is a fine object with lots of small details and smooth skin surfaces ect.
You can use the "bombs away" method for pouring the silicone. This will help free any air bubbles. Tutorial video: th-cam.com/video/NVvGc7VDFvc/w-d-xo.htmlm7s
its the vents that are stumping me, im going to be moulding a face hugger, im guessing 2 part but i have no clue where to place the vents or wether im better off dismantling my sculpture and doing 3 seperate ones, legs, body, tail.
Lots of good information on this episode. Thanks for sharing this!
Happy to help!
Can the final cast be drilled? How hard is the resin part after cooling?
Punished Props Could i sand away the seem line to smooth or to not that noticeable?
Ok Thanks :)
are you going to do a trial on how to cast a helmet
Thank you for sharing this information with us. Extremely informative.
I have a question, if anyone knows the answer. I need to make a 2 piece mold to cast a car part that is made of rubber. I need to know what needs to be done to the master to insure the silicone will not stick to it? I was told I could coat it with Vaseline before pouring the silicone, but wondering if this is the only option, or if there are other methods? I will be using polyurethane for the copy.
Will your final cast be in rubber as well? Typically your mold material should be the opposite of your casting material - so silicone for hard resin casts, and resin molds for flexible silicone/rubber casts. Mold release will be your friend as far as getting the silicone not to stick. I highly recommend asking the folks at Smooth-On about this, as they give awesome advice and can even recommend specific materials for you to use: www.smooth-on.com/support/
The final cast will be Urethane Casting Compound, 80A Hardness. The original part I need to copy is the lower rear coil spring seat. They are rubber. I'll need to make at least two copies of them, so the mold will need to be reusable. I'll contact Smooth-on and give them the details and see what they suggest. Thank you very much for helping me with this.
@@punishedprops Thanks again for your help and sharing your knowledge with us. Using Mold Star 30, Mann Ease Release 200 and McMaster-Carr Urethane Casting Compound, 60A Hardness I was able to reproduce the part I needed.
having a bit of a panic attack cause my mold won't split apart.... how long did it take pry the two parts apart? I've been at it for like an hour (i used ease release 200 on mold star 30 silicone)
how would you prepare the mold if you need to have an internal thread in your mold?
I'd block the hole for the mold-making process and then drill the hole out and tap it after casting.
Thanks Builder Anne!
Builder Anne the Builder Man!
Hey Bill and Brit ! Could you guys please post a link to files you used to 3d print that NN-44 blaster? Would be super happy to print it and follow along with you :)
So here's a thought. Since NSP can melt, would it be a viable technique to heat some up until it's runny, and then pour it around your master for a perfect 90 degree seam clay base?
If my master is made of plasticene clay (I have sculpted a figure), what material should I use to make the form of the mold before pouring my silicone? In your video your master is made of hard plastic and you use plasticene for creating your half-mold before pouring your first half of silicone. What material would work easily?
You can also use clay but a different kind. Frequently if our master is Monster clay, we'll clay the mold with Plastaline - you can probably use Monster clay or something similar for your mold.
Very educational. I'm enjoying this series and can't wait to try the two part mold on my pieces when they are finished. Quick question, which type of molding would be best for a halo/space marine helmet?
Cool, thanks. I will be sure to watch it.
I am doing Hela for a cosplay. I plan on sculpting the antlers in clay and then creating a mold. Any suggestions for a light weight casting material?
You could slush cast it from urethane resin. That way it'll be hollow.
Thanks so much! Do you have a tutorial for that? BTW LOVE your guys channel!
Vc usou resina epoxi?
What if your master is a clay sculpt?
What about if you have inner cavity that need to be just as accurate as the outside? Would primed wood be ok to set into and extend thru a 2 part mold?
+Beefalo Bart That would probably work.
Question, I used a spray release and I never got two parts mold, then I have to cut it. I spray 3 times and wait like 1 minute between each time I sprayed. What i did wrong? Other question, Can I use a Lego block to make a walls mold and then put Vaseline/ I saw I videos about it but Im not sure if this work
I'm not exactly sure, but my guess is that you didn't use the appropriate mold release. I like Ease Release 200 for silicone. You should only need one good layer of the release sprayed on the cured half of the silicone. You can definitely use Lego for mold walls. You don't need to put Vaseline on the legos. The silicone will not bond to the plastic.
Punished Props Academy I used Smooth On spray release. Thanks
hey bill can you make a video about the tested box figures i would like to se that
sorry for my bad english
thanks
Hey bill I want to be a prop maker. I was wondering if I have to go to college for it. And if I do what should I major and minor in. Thanks 👍
+Venger Voldur thanks so much for this info I now know what the best path to my dream job is.
Absolutely love this video thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much for watching!
Heya! Great tutorial, can't wait to try it out!
I have a Question though.. If you make the master object out of clay, how does that work?
I assume you can't really add clay to a clay master object, because it'll stick and you will lose detail.
Is there any alternative to mold release for silicone on silicone, cause I'm just going to make the one two part mold and I see it a little pointless to buy the spray and pay for shipping.also do I have to treat bondo with anything before pouring silicone on it.
+Ammon hoffman I don't know if there is an alternative, I just use what I know works.
Hello, I'm trying to make a cast of a horse with a knight on top. Having all four legs is making work difficult. The mold looks good but then cut the silicone and separate the part ... I can not! Do you have any video that teaches you to do such a thing? Thank you
I don't specifically. I probably would have made that a multi part mold instead. Look up "jewelers cut" on TH-cam for some videos on cutting open molds.
Thanks for your answer. I will check out if I find something that helps me.
Is that the front of Rey's blaster from the force awakens?
***** Are you going to make a video on it?
hello i have a mechanical object that has lines that act as gaps to the inside what is the best way to fill the holes on something? I want to mold an airsoft pistol if that helps to make a mold for kydex. But am unsure if i should maybe use clay inside the gaps? or tape it off? any tips or advice as i dont want to ruin the pistol im trying to mold but if it gets a little gummy or stained im ok with it. Thank you!
Clay is usually the go-to for temporarily filling gaps. WED or Monster clay is oil-based and used the most for mold making because you can reheat it as often as you like and it won't ever dry out. There are also wax-based clays that achieve the same effect.
If you want to permanently fill gaps you can use any kind of body filler. Wood filler and Bondo and other similar materials would do the trick, and can be sanded down afterwards for a smooth finish.
- Paige
Is it possible to get a good result using Perfect Cast in a 2 part mold?
I'm not sure, I haven't used that material
stupid question incoming!!!! what if your pouring hole gets filled with resin and you dont want that on your piece? can you 'cut away' resin?
Hi Bill. what is that piece of mdf on Reys' mold for? I assume in the end, it consumes more resin? What is the benefit? thanks a lot for the video!!! *-)
Great video, as always, thanks Bill.
Is there anyway to help the pour viscosity of older resin? When I tried to pour resin into my mold it cures faster then i can get it into the mold. It isn't even a very large mold.
Also I am curious who sells that curved hobby knife?
Don’t know about the rest of your questions but he bent that hobby knife himself so he could cut some registration into the silicone as he released the master object
How well does a two mold work for a slush cast on a helmet.
It works great!
Would it be safe to you silicone on bondo. Do I need to put anything on the bondo before putting silicone on it.
Nice instructive videos. Question, What wet clay do you recommend, brand? Where to get it?
Any non sulfuric clay will do. Some people like water based clay, like WED clay. I use plastalina, oil based clay.
Urethane Resin is good with Latex molds!? Thanks
As long as there's no sulfur or anything inhibiting the cure, you should be good!
New to mould making. Cant seem to find anywhere in the uk who sells smooth on.... Which is what everyone one youtube seems to use. Is there an alternative that i can get in the uk?
Check here: www.smooth-on.com/distributors/
I'm loving this series! Super informative. Have you tried any other alternatives for making molds (other than silicone)? I've seen some smaller casts using brands like Composimold, but I'm not sure how well it would work with resin casts of a larger prop
I haven't really experimented a whole lot with materials other than silicone 'cause silicone has always done what I needed it to.
@@punishedprops Thanks!
Hey, awesome videos but i have one question; does a silicone based mold release work?
It does not. Ease Release 200 is what you want.
Thanks for your answer.
Hi, I am just starting, what kind of clay is that? thank you
Hello! The clay is linked in the description.
Greetings from the UK. Love your videos, I'm new to this and keen to get my first silicone mold project on the go. One question - does the urethane casting material suffer from captive bubbles in the same way the silicone does, and does it need vaccing or pouring from a height? Cheers
Bubbles can be an issue urethane castings. Designing good vents helps, but if they're a real problem in your castings a pressure pot is the best way to solve it.
Punished Props Academy This series has been quite helpful. I’m gonna try my hand at casting Han Solo’s DL-44 for a costume I’m doing.
How should i go about making a food safe mold and cast it? I want to make a custom design 3d printed hamburger patty maker out of plastic but i have read that simply 3d printing it even with something like PETG is not really food safe. can this be done safely with a mold from a 3d print then casting it with a food safe resin? any tips?
If you're wanting to make a mold for food then you can 3D print it and fill in the gaps with whatever filler you want, then coat it with a food safe resin for use. Max Clear, for example, is an industrial strength, FDA approved food safe resin coating.
- Paige
Thanks a lot for your response! I will look into doing this with a Food safe resin coating as you kindly suggested. unfortunately i am in Germany and haven't been able to find Max Clear anywhere nearby to order. The shipping costs for the places i have found it are insanely large. I will look for a suitable alternative i guess. Oh btw, your channel is absolutely amazing!
so im trying to make replicas of the exotic sword crystals in destiny out of resin and siliconnmold, what should i use for the master object? clay?
anything you want so long as you can bring it to a high finish and it does not stick to silicone
Es silicona de caucho???
Punished Props, what kind of resin can i use to make a model airplane. I need it to be durable but semi flexible so that it wont break easy. Please!!! let me know. I am trying to make the Avatar Valkyrie shuttle for my boys since they dont sell it anywhere.
I would ask the fine folks over at Smooth-On.
Doesn't the baby powder cause the surface of the cast piece to be more rough?
not rough, but it might give it a matte finish
I guess rough was the wrong expression, I meant it would look matte like Ivan said.
Any thoughts on offering workshops anytime in the future? I know I would pay money to come learn on a weekend or something. I think I saw Artyfakes offers that kind of thing but I sure cant fly to Europe. Seattle would be much more affordable.
Another question, I have a head with shoulder clay sculpture, What type of mold you recommend me, one or two parts?
That would probably be a two part mold. You'd want to do either a brush up or a matrix mold.
Punished Props thanks