The normal green scotch bright type pad and the more coarse ones at the hardware store do very well, to clean off the top portion where your contact is important, just vacuum off after you clean. You can also rub or spray light oil on them and then wipe off all of it as well as you can to preserve them. Problem is with the vinegar, or with sanding or to much scotch bright type cleaning, is that they remove the shinny tinned finish. The little rust on the sides looks more realistic. I have been told, but I have not proved it yet that any rust or contact issues will make your train wheel and rollers spark more adding more wear to the rollers of the center rail.
I recommend to pull track pins first. I clean them separately and clean inside of rail openings with small Dremel tool. Also, most painted "old track" was painted later by modelers.....Old track used "blued metal" for ties so modelers would not have to worry about removing paint when using Lionel track cleaning fluids......Smart..... Newer track is probably painted because it is cheaper and faster method of constructing track...... Bluing can be damaged by the wrong cleaning method......Mineral Spirits should not hurt it. I like old track and a bit of pitting can be just sanded smooth and coated with thin layer of "NO-OX" to improve conductivity and prevent corrosion.........If I have a lot of time; I take tracks apart and clean rails and ties separately.....I discard the old insulating "fish paper" of the center rail and cut and fit new fish paper insulation when re-assembling......It is a labor of love and tracks really look better the more time spent on restoration. They can even be painted completely (except for top of rails).....for a more realistic railroad look.....
In a pinch, you can also just sand the top of the rails and that works ok, as long as you don't mind rust. I have tried a similar technique and it looks like doing it in large batches is way more efficient. Thanks.
As a wise point if you have pieces that are pitted, or have rusted through. You can cut off the bad part and use the remainder for unique spots you may need a partial track piece.
Along that thought, I was working on my large set up using Gargraves flex track, yesterday. I had to cut a 1.5 inch piece to complete this one part, so you never know were a unique cut piece could be used.
Part of my last layout was Fastrak,,,, loud, expensive and too plastic looking so I sold all of it. I’m back to 027 and O gauge tubular along with lots of Menards track bought in the last four years.
I am very new with this track cleaning, but I have experience outstanding results using 5% vinegar in pan covered the track, let sit for 24hrs ,use a small stainless steel brush it will remove all rust. I cleaned old Lionel track. Put on pan after rinsing and put them in oven for 1hr at 200, degrees. Perfect track..
I love it it’s amazing I miss old tains like this and old track and I wish I could get my grandpas fixed but I don’t have enough money but I love it tho great content and have a great day and thanks for subscribing back ❤
Need to rinse the track in baking sods and wster mix 5050 mix 50 percent water 50 perfect baking soda and then let drip dry then put in oven at 200 degrees for q hour then let cool
The normal green scotch bright type pad and the more coarse ones at the hardware store do very well, to clean off the top portion where your contact is important, just vacuum off after you clean. You can also rub or spray light oil on them and then wipe off all of it as well as you can to preserve them. Problem is with the vinegar, or with sanding or to much scotch bright type cleaning, is that they remove the shinny tinned finish.
The little rust on the sides looks more realistic.
I have been told, but I have not proved it yet that any rust or contact issues will make your train wheel and rollers spark more adding more wear to the rollers of the center rail.
I put mine in a dishwasher with ordinary dishwasher soap. They came out great, and heat dried. Wife wasn't happy though.
Great tip!
Dishwashers are wonderful for cleaning things. Just make sure you've got everything out before anyone else notices!
I recommend to pull track pins first. I clean them separately and clean inside of rail openings with small Dremel tool.
Also, most painted "old track" was painted later by modelers.....Old track used "blued metal" for ties so modelers
would not have to worry about removing paint when using Lionel track cleaning fluids......Smart.....
Newer track is probably painted because it is cheaper and faster method of constructing track......
Bluing can be damaged by the wrong cleaning method......Mineral Spirits should not hurt it.
I like old track and a bit of pitting can be just sanded smooth and coated with thin layer of "NO-OX" to improve
conductivity and prevent corrosion.........If I have a lot of time; I take tracks apart and clean rails and ties
separately.....I discard the old insulating "fish paper" of the center rail and cut and fit new fish paper insulation
when re-assembling......It is a labor of love and tracks really look better the more time spent on restoration.
They can even be painted completely (except for top of rails).....for a more realistic railroad look.....
Thank you, I should have pulled the pins. Makes sense.
In a pinch, you can also just sand the top of the rails and that works ok, as long as you don't mind rust. I have tried a similar technique and it looks like doing it in large batches is way more efficient. Thanks.
Yeah, it adds a few more years to it without looking bad. I've seen people paint them rust and it doesn't look bad. Thanks.
As a wise point if you have pieces that are pitted, or have rusted through. You can cut off the bad part and use the remainder for unique spots you may need a partial track piece.
Along that thought, I was working on my large set up using Gargraves flex track, yesterday. I had to cut a 1.5 inch piece to complete this one part, so you never know were a unique cut piece could be used.
After vinegar, rinse them in baking soda water, and rub the lube on the tracks after they dried off.
If you need more track, check out Menards O gauge track. Can't beat their prices especially in times like these.
Thank you, they are tough to beat.
Sand the tops and insides and contact points for lock-ins , best track made
Part of my last layout was Fastrak,,,, loud, expensive and too plastic looking so I sold all of it. I’m back to 027 and O gauge tubular along with lots of Menards track bought in the last four years.
Tubular is hard to beat!
I have some track I need to clean. I bought 2 boxes of long straight track around Christmas from Menards.
Good luck, hope it works.
Great idea and tips! 👍
Thank you.
Nice restoration and save of tuber track👍♐️
Thank you, gotta save money so I can buy more trains😁
Great video.. awesome tip.. 😊
Thank you Jorge.
Great Tip Joey.! Looks really good. Gool luck with your expansion.! 👍😊
Thank you Mark.
I am very new with this track cleaning, but I have experience outstanding results using 5% vinegar in pan covered the track, let sit for 24hrs ,use a small stainless steel brush it will remove all rust. I cleaned old Lionel track. Put on pan after rinsing and put them in oven for 1hr at 200, degrees. Perfect track..
Excellent, glad you had success.
I love it it’s amazing I miss old tains like this and old track and I wish I could get my grandpas fixed but I don’t have enough money but I love it tho great content and have a great day and thanks for subscribing back ❤
Thank you, very glad you liked it.
Shoeee...Doggy!
Another way to dry the track is to park your car in the sun with the windows rolled up and put it in the car for a couple of hours.
A Bench wire wheel does great job.....takes 2 minutes......
Need to rinse the track in baking sods and wster mix 5050 mix 50 percent water 50 perfect baking soda and then let drip dry then put in oven at 200 degrees for q hour then let cool
What about the track insulator for the middle rail @Joey's Trains. do they need replacement after the process?
Some of them did, before the cleaning. I used 3 layers of electrical tape for an insulator and carefully pinched the tie clamps down.