Chevy Fuel Evap Canister Fill Fix Filling Slow
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Slow filling gas tank problem Fuel Tank will not fill. Pump clicks off. I get mad! Takes 40 minutes to fill. Chevy Fuel Evap Canister Fill Fix Filling Slow... New Canister link amzn.to/3f29dIq
Taking Apart Charcoal Canister And Vent Relocation On 2012 Chevy Silverado Truck th-cam.com/video/ASCLntCU0jQ/w-d-xo.html
Is there a reason you did this instead of running the water through then?
Just wanted to see what is was like inside and ran vent line so it would not clog again
Thanks bro
Really? We can wash the canister? Awesome! Should we wait for it get completely dried up before reinstall it back?
The first video i've seen showing how to get the hoses off. Thank you.
The top hose broke because he should have pressed the clip in them pulled the house off. He tried to pry it down which broke it
a-1 auto shows you exactly this process but just replacing the canister instead of cleaning it
Those hoses were a pain in the ass, and I'm still having a fuel issue
The clip that you mangled just pushes in on flat side towards the barb side, then you don't destroy the clip
EXACTLY! So dang hard to watch other guys explain it like their way is the right way and then insult the engineers while they’re at it. *cringe
lol exactly
Really good video on this. Very detailed and you added in other possible issues. I'm saving this one. Thanks a million. Been having this issue. Pumping $20 worth of fuel was taking me 10-15 minutes
Damn..
I am disabled and it's heard for me to work on car or trucks like I use to , I use to restored Antique cars when I was younger but now that I have had Major back surgery that make me Worse it's very painful to work on cars but I do it Because I can't Afford to pay a mechanic , what took me two hours to do now , it takes me a day or more depending on what it is , my Neighbor will help me some times but he expect to be paid , I thought neighbor's and friends are supposed to do it out of the kindness of there heart , I know I have done that for my friends !! I helped my friends and I never asked for any money and if they offered I wouldn't take it that's the way my parents raised me , you don't charge friends and family
Hope you’re doing well Tom I’m sorry you haven’t had the best of friends or neighbors just know there are more of you and we know exactly what you mean people aren’t nice anymore but it’s important that those of us that are remain so
i think its pretty clean.. no more charcoal.. it just canister....lol
LMAOOOO yeah its clean, all harmful vapors are not being filtered..
That last clip you should push in on the middle of it.that releases
Thank you.
great White - that's correct. Imagine the clip as the shape of a horseshoe. Push 180 degrees from the open side. U < push from the bottom.
I did this last night and it worked like a charm it took me less than an hour. Thank you sir 👍🏽
Good deal
did you cleaned the same way and why was the reason
so did it throw a code ? Is this why you had to clean yours? Also if so did ur check engine light go out ?
how long fid this work for you flushing out the cannister
Thx dude - you gave me a great overview for this job - point of note - 2004 Yukon XL Denali is a POS job as the canister is above the spare wheel, the prop shaft, the diff, etc - but got there in the end...... there is a really good video by a 'dude' that explains how to split the connectors (probably the worst part of the job).
I was going to have to buy a new one anyway so I figured why not give it a try. It worked!! Saved me $80, thanks man
Did it hold up?
Just install a NEW one there only $150 with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. so if/when it fails again go get a new one under warranty.
I don't know if you can help but here goes. 2006 Chevy silver ado 1500/4.8 First code was P0442 Small Leak. put a new gas cap reset the code, 1500km or 900miles it came back. Changed the purge valve on the top front of the motor. now I get tighten the gas cap then the next time I start the motor I get the check engine light, P0455 Large leak after less than 400km or 240miles. Crown oil sprayed every year. mint shape, no rust. I'll look for the charcoal canister in the morning then try the water clean-out.
Thank you on taking off the clips instructions .
I work for a company that makes canisters for GM, Ford and FCA. I can tell you that washing it out with water was probably a waste of time. The flow rate on those cans are typically 60-70 liters a minute. The fuel system that monitors the leak rate of the system and that monitors flow rate. Will cause a MIL light to come on if it falls below that flow rate or the total flow rate set by the manufacture after the canister is installed in the vehicle. When the company that I work for manufacturers these canisters. The charcoal(carbon) has to be dry in order to know that a canister is a good part based off the customer’s specifications for flow rate and leak rate. As a canister ages from my understanding. The charcoal(carbon) will eventually dissipate and or turn into dust. That is by design so that after 10-15 years you will need a new one. These canisters do have springs with retainers and felt in them to hold the charcoal inside the can.
I, guess the charcoal is desintegrated in black dust, and people think is so dirty and clogged, and using water or air will blow out the dust, but probably the carbon has a function, if desintegrated, the Canister is not doing the job properly anymore and should be replaced at some point.
I agree that the activated carbon has a life time base on refueling cycles. As you fill it, it gets warmer or hot. This is an “endothermic” reaction, as the hydrocarbons are absorbed. During purge, the tank vent valve is open, which defaults to open. This is when the problem happens. It is drawing in outside air. If you are a farmer in Iowa or live down a gravel road, the dust that’s kicked up goes thru the tank valve, thru the canister, around the activate carbon. Magic allows the hydrocarbons to release into the air with less or no gas in, then into the engine and burned. The PCM closes of the tank valve and if dirty, it leaks. Fails twice you get small leak code.
Tank valve have all shapes but adding a filter, moving with a good sealed hose, to a dust free location will help.
What sucks is the trend is to make the canister & valves all 1 part.
Near Dubuque, IA is a shop who does wash them out. However, he caps them off and places into a vacuum. This boils off the water at room temps. He has had decent success using the shop truck as $340 for a new canister was needed. He also tried a white sock over valve for filter. I am sure that some small engines use a round air filter inside a plastic canister. This would work great if hoses to the vent valve fit.
“Hey, Get off my Lawn”
Hot/cold cycle would more than likely break down activated carbon due to a little expansion & contraction, turn to dust and travel up purge line to valve, into engine. That’s going to leave a mark!! ;(
Your right, as a 40 year GM master tech, you are told this stuff as you progress through your training.
If i have rust in the solenoid is the canister bad or filler neck? Replaced soenoid and still have problem.
Yes I do agree with you as a mechanic. But these guys are just doing cheap fixes so they can fill there tank up faster. Lol
Your voice is close enough to Norm McDonald that you could throw in a few jokes or impressions
I believe, maybe, the small horseshoe clip connector, which you broke the clip on, is actually supposed to be pressed IN, NOT removed ? The inward pressure to allow pull off the line straight off ?
Last part on silly car im replacing...ugh
Why do these companies have to invent Rubik's cube attachment clips? Just bullshit.
Yeah and they are all different and if you are not use to taking them off all the time like me, I tend to brake things
Fuel went in the charcoal canister do i Blow dry instead, water with charcoal, doesn't it dissolve?
No it will not
Thank you so much🙏🏼 for your free information brother 💪👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
God bless you 🙏🏼
Uhh I think I just will buy a new unit, this method MIGHT! work BUT looks like the charcoal it self came out.
You made it look real simple and you can rejuvenate the old one great video thanks
Thanks
The explanation on removing the hoses was very helpful, thanks!
The top vent line w/ the white horseshoe clip, you don't pull it out. You push it in to release it. Good vid otherwise. Resorting to flushing w/ water worked for me too. Shop air alone just wasn't enough. Maybe drill a hole at the lowest part and plug it w/ a screw after ~ a week.
Is your canister still working fine :)
@@mohamedhosini2103 It wasn't my vehicle and been a few years now. But was their regular go-to guy and no Evap complaints since the repair.
@mohamedhosini2103 yes it is
That middle blue one is a bitch. One side won't squeeze, and ended up breaking the other side, and still won't come off
I would suggest to set it out in the sun for a day to dry out or use a heat gun
Heat gun ????? Have u ever figured out that made of plastic 🤦
@@omaralvarado2920 ......maybe a simple hair dryer set on ''hot''.
NAPA sells lock tabs fittings orings i just did mine on GM fuel pump line.
Hint :dont fill fuel tank while engine is running and dont top off tank and try to keep putting gas in after pump nozzle clicks off.
Very good point
Can the truck be driven without the bottom hose to the Evap cannister attached? and will it fill any faster
You could but probably get dirt in gas tank, that directly connects to it and will always smell gas in you park in garage. Probably not a good idea. If you going to do that just cut canister apart and through carbon out.
If you break any clips/Plastic tubing. Relax , 5/8 heater hose and $1 clamps
Good to know, thanks
I broke the tip of plastic tubing trying to pull the clip off so that’s great news good to know
hello every body i think its make damage to the canister sand by using water jet in order to clean it !!! true or false??
I'm a mechanic and GM is always the worst with high mileage either the canister of the dump valve down under or up top or both thanks for the video Never clean one just change them LOL
For my case, at a discount it's 150$ for a new canister. I'd rather spend .15¢ on water and try this lol sucks sometimes that the more frequent items to fail tend to be the more costly.
I stumbled on this video 5 years ago as my '05 avalanche was doing this exact problem. I did the cleaning once more 2 years ago so considering 2x in almost 6 years, I'll take the trade off any day until I decide otherwise. Great tip and tutorial 👍
Thanks
@TreyAydelette-qw4ctsame dude
DON'T DON'T LISTING TO THIS GUY IF. YOU DO THIS IT WILL TUEN THE CHARCOAL IN THE VENT TANK WILL END UP MAKING SOMETHING LIKE cake batter and window clogging the whole entire system don't do it or you will be like me having to put out over 300 to get it fixed by a michanic. I'm so tired of people nowadays when you ask for some help they tell you to go to TH-cam
Thanks
Wash the canister and destroy the clips
Lmao
Destroy everything. 😆
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Could be purge valve sticking
I have an 07 Yukon, started noticing strong gas fumes, sometimes acting up when cranking after it’s been ran, then it’s an absolute nightmare to put gas in it. Takes forever. First thing I did was change the purge valve, then replaced charcoal canister, and blew out the lines. As my luck would have it, trying to put gas it in is still a a pain. At first the fumes went away, after driving it a few times, they are back and it still acts up after a warm start. HELP!!!!! I am going insane!!!!! I don’t think this really matters, but my Yukon is cammed and tuned etc, surely that has zero to do with my issue/issues. ANY help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
cammed should not affect it, i would say the vent hose from tank to canister could be pugged
@@HighOctane101 Thank you! I’ll check into that. Haven’t had the time to do anything with it lately!
It looked like the bottom of that canister would unsnap and could be removed. Though it is illegal, would leaving the engine running help flow rate?
Probably could but would lead to dust getting into engine when regeneration starts
Hi there!! really good content! thanks for sharing
Mine is allowing gasoline smell to scape when filling up the tank. Washing it as you did will make any good in my case? It's not clogged only its charcoal is saturated I think.
I would say your purge valve is bad, so basically it is not letting the vapors go to engine when it should be purging (regeneration of carbon)
10:27 im no fkn environmental crazy,,but sht , this going down the drain this sht is full of gasoline vapor residue,,,if you are a what looks like a professional shop do this,,,i wonder if the motor oil or other chemicals go down the same way,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,lol,,,thsi sht end up in the drinking water system...i take it back you dont look professional,,,
Trust me I’m not a professional and nor do I ever think I am. I just like help people out. Thanks for your comment, have a great day!
GREAT VIDEO !! I had this issue on 06 Chev. Avalanche. NOT anymore. Did other checks and repairs to EVAP system. Thank you.
Thanks for this response Henry. I feel better that it will work on my 04 Avalanche. Great video High Octane. Appreciate it.
Got the same problem with my 1999 Toyota Tacoma sr5 do you have a video on this just curious thanks
yes this has a caster so it could be your issue
Kinda like backwashing a sand filter pool pump. Lol.
Can my canister filter for my 2004 Yukon that has a valve broke still be used...or do I need to replace it
If it is just the vent solenoid valve then just replace valve
my son has n 05 avalanche with these same issues.....does it work flushing out the cannister with water....we cant put gas it splashes back out on us
Yes it works, just have to blow it out to get the rest of water out before put canister back on
So, if you take it off, charcoal pellets are not supposed to fall out? I took one out of a chevy suburban and a ton of pellets immediately started falling out. Does that indicate that the canister is bad?
The internal screen to hold pellets back failed. You may have to get new one.
wow give me a fucking break with all these various plastic clips for hoses and wires. theres like 150 variations of them all over the vehicle and each one is a puzzle.
Ever wonder how angry at the world the "engineers" who designed those clips must be?
Yeah probably in with whoever makes them and now they can sell more lol
@@HighOctane101 governments force them to add all this stupid shit to cars for "emission" but it actually just creates a ton of plastic waste as these plastic crap things have to be trashed and replaced regularly and they've found now that plastic creation is the real pollution . not the gas vapor.
Anyone ever tell you that you sound exactly like Norm Macdonald?
Yes all the time. Thanks
I have to ask why he didn't start the vehicle . It would have been a little more convincing. Don't ya think?
This is a very poor "repair". Not only are you rinsing out the charcoal itself but also reinstalling a wet canister when the problem is a vent valve that is "sucking up dirt" .... this is goinf to leave a mud filled canister.
being that it's a farm truck, it probably doesn't matter to him.
I was thinking isn't ok to clean with water Fuel Evap Canister? but I was searching for, and you clean it with water. I want to try it to see if safe and save $500.
ISSUE:
Fueling is difficult…
TOPIC:
Small diameter Vent Hose that runs from Canister to Solenoid to top of Fuel Nozzle…
QUESTION:
Will the vehicle function properly and will fueling return to normal if;
The Vent Hose is simply disconnected at the top of the fuel nozzle ???
(See Notes)
Notes: The hole in the fuel nozzle would be plugged… The Vent Hose would be rotated away from the fuel nozzle and zip tied in its upright position…
All venting would simply be through the wheel well & quarter panel, not the fuel nozzle…
~~~
Notice: Disabled Elder on disability… Simply can’t afford or crawl under cars anymore due 12 cancer surgeries and tubes attached to torso… However, I should be able to remove the interior trunk wall and work from an upright position… Just Sayin’…
~~~
Await Response…
Thank you for your time and consideration…
This drives me crazy.
I work for an automotive company in Alabama and I just so happen to make canisters and i'm telling you that you would never put water in it you can use like 45 Psi air pressure. But for the part to work correctly it must have a required amount of carbon along with the foam pads. We get an empty canister where pads are stitched along with a long filter which is rolled with foam also then it's put 8nto a machine that puts exactly the right amount of carbon for each space then more foam pads are put on top to trap the carbon then a bottom plate with springs for each space that has carbon is put into a heat welder that presses it all down to trap the carbon.. Duh! When I take it out the welder I shake the canister if you hear any rattling which is caused by either a missing pad or not enough carbon it means the part is no good. In other words it needs all its carbon my advice is just replace with a new one or eventually you will be in trouble.. It's made one way and that's the correct and only way for it to help your car keep it's peak performance. Hope it helps
Sincerely a welder in canisters at leehan America inc.
Ty
You sir are creating a bogus product!
Sure well opened because you emptying all charcoal 😂
It still works 🤣🤣
Just install a new fuel pump on my 2017 sierra 1500 .... If i turn it off more the 10 minutes. Takes a wile to start. But if start it like every 10 minutes. Not a problem. Please help ..and it has this system. Cant find a filter. For the gas.
Either filling too fuel and getting raw fluid gas in the canister or purge valve bad . My opinion
To full I ment to say
@@HighOctane101 thanks today i went to get a new fuel pump. Thats what it was...dont know y this trucks dond have a filter. But thanks! 👍
If u break any of those plastic lines that go to the canister. Your check engine light will light up. Trust me becarfull removing those lines..just replace the canister..or u be back under the truck again same thing..
Yep correct
I'm so mad at myself for ruining mine by accident. I was told not to blow air through the single port side and as soon as I get to the air compressor the very first thing I do is NOT look and just started blowing air in. Tore up whatever hold the charcoal inside and now it blows the pellets out. What's worse is I have an Avalanche and so Tahoe canisters don't fit my bracket and Silverados are built different with how they bolt on. I was told a Hummer H3 has the canister I need but junkyards don't tend to have Hummers.
Before you through it out, I actually cut one apart and put back together in this video, it may help. th-cam.com/video/ASCLntCU0jQ/w-d-xo.html
@@HighOctane101I've thought about it.
I tried this and it didn't work. I did see some improvement when I went to fill up but still doesn't vent right. Maybe I need to do it again or something.
It could also be the sponge filter where it breathes, it is on the filler neck on the inside of fender area just behind the gas cap
@@HighOctane101 I'll take a look at it and let you know. Thanks for the reply.
Do the canister cause the cat code and p0172 code to throw also?
Yeah it can
Great video! Finally someone shows how to remove the lines. But seriously, 3 lines, 3 different clip designs holding them on! Thanks sooooo much Chevy engineers!
Yep they try to make it as intimidating as they can I think
😂 they’re RETARDS!
Harder to mix them up that way?
I mangled my clips 😂😂😂 wish me the best
YO MY MAN HOW DARE YOU DO THIS? MAKING A VIDEO OF SUCH QUALITY THANK YOU VERY HELPFUL.
You are welcome 👍
I did try it same way as you explained and it worked l was able to put gas in the tank fine any way good video and explained video thanks good video l never put any comments but did good again thanks for good videos
Wouldn't flushing it with water also flush the charcoal out? Also, I believe there are fabric filters in the bottom of that canister...wouldn't they would absorb the water and then feed it back to the engine??
I’m sure if the filter fabric was bad it would leak beads and the small amount of moisture left would eventually evaporate during a regen and such a small amount won’t hurt anything
the main issues with the canister is not the dust but from eople over filling there gas tank which leads to gas gumming out the charcoal in the canister. people when the pump shuts off dont add more fuel.. with the charcoal issue the canister can come appart and suck the charcoal pellets up the purge line and block that as well. i wouldnt advise washing out the canister
Don't do this, things work together there's a reason it has carbon in the box. All is monitored by the ECM. Full explanation @ th-cam.com/video/LYifnstYsx4/w-d-xo.html Check out before you flush with water or even pressurized shop air.
It still works, we are not removing the carbon just cleaning for! The water left behind is very little and when a vacuum is pulled on it it will instantly turn to vapor as long it is not too cold outside! Gas has water in it to so these see moisture all the time! Have done this many times and it does work if don right. See this new vid I posted about taking the canister apart and relocating the vent! th-cam.com/video/auFImpmQXF8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the link though it is a good explanation of evap system
@@HighOctane101 Staying open minded the link you provided takes me to a tennis shoe ad? It takes 28.92 inc of vacuum to boil off water at 80 deg F, or 25,400 microns (-) pressure.You would never see this (-) pressure in a fuel sys the tank would cave. But maybe I'm missing your point? Again open minded. The moisture was not my real concern as Ethanol introduces or inducts H20 into the fuel. My point would be is, X amount of charcoal is measured into these Carbon cans with baffles and mesh screens, pressed then the plastic shell is heat welded around the matter to hold all in place. So what happens to all the internals of the can with a water flush? Will it still be able to absorb fuel vapors for re-gin when the manifold vapor valve opens? My system had charcoal pellets falling out of it and occluding the vent lines. And I never washed it out with water or blew it out w/shop air. So how could it be that pressurized water is not destroying the internals of the can. Was all the black stuff in the water coming out just dust?
Yes it was just dust, if you would ever have the pellets fall out then you have a bigger problem with the screen! Then I would agree through it away. I just giving some options out there if you did not have the money to fix and you could get by for cheap if you have the tools and the no how to fix.
Using a water hose to clean this part, will cause water drops to reach to the combustion chamber of the engine...
And what will that do?
Cause water drops reaching your pistons and combustion champer and damaging your oil and engine. @@HighOctane101
Your viewers comment about using water is totally correct. Theyre designed w a shelf life basically so do yourself a big plus. Buy new. They dont cost $500. Not even $300 or $200 Dorman brand.
Thanks for a gud demonstration 👍
You are welcome
I wonder about adding some simple green or similar & letting that soak & then rinse repeatedly & blow out. God forbid some of us still use a truck as a truck & get 'em dirty & not as luxury vehicle to try to feel masculine & only pull expensive toys with. One reason I love my '81 Dodge Ram back when a truck was a practical tool. I would buy a 60s-80s truck in a heartbeat!
Man...the clip you broke on the third hose ....I think you did it the wrong way...you just needed to press the clip down and pull the hose out...Am I right?
I think you are right. A similar white clip is on the evap purge solenoid on the top of the engine. With thumb pressure on side of clip, it will release its grip. There's a sweet spot, you don't need the screwdrivers.
Yes that right.
You’re very very very correct.
Yes
Throw this box of canister in garbage , because inside this box shackles when you put water inside it , it lose its work .
Start with the filter behind the gas fill!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I will take care of my truck this way, my mechanic wants 550 for the labor of replacing the filter and solenoid.
Ruben Salais well do the work your self , I don't mean that in a bad way I just saying do it your self a save your self $550.00 , the mechanic who tested my 2005 Chevy Silverado 4x4 1500 told me what the part I needed and he said it would be $649.00 for labor plus the part ! I got the part for $32.96 and I did it my self and saved me the cost of the labor , just think about it , you can save your self a ton of cash
Here is another idea, buy a new canister and test disconnected solenoid for ohms. If none show on meter, replace solenoid. This is a hack and so is this guy.
@@hshsgjakanss I going to try that since my work truck is also started with the same problem, thanks for the tip
@@rubensalais1502 No problem, i just hate misinformation like this. Also, so you know, the "hard to get off" fuel clip, yea you just push it in and pull line off with ease. Hope i helped
@@hshsgjakanss thanks, I will do that this weekend
Thanks for the vid! If anything, most of the people commenting on this are not mechanics. I personally bought a new cannister, but I appreciate the step by step and description. Keep up the good work. However, I do have a question... should/can I blow out any of the hoses running to the cannister? New subscriber here.
Sir you have a wonderful question 👍
I'm sure you can but make sure none of the hoses are attached and make sure that if you are blowing it through a line with a valve, it does not break anything.. just be careful.
It is NOT good to put water into the charcoal canister! Absolutely DO NOT put any water into the charcoal canister!!! You can however blow out the canister by using compressed air, to try and blow the dust out of the canister. DO not use water inside the canister, unless it is your very last resort. Please know, that water inside the canister, will destroy the functioning of the charcoal, which is designed to filter the pollutants out of the gasoline vapour, before it exits the vehicle through the vent valve. Water will also likely shift the charcoal inside the canister, and redistribute it unevenly inside.
It still is in use today, as far as it functioning correctly I don’t care. As much gas it made me spill on the ground overtime caused way more pollution I believe
there is a GM bulletin that reroutes that filthy filter up near the fill neck, I pull the sponges and wash them out , what a stupid place to put an air intake for your vent to tank , come on GM its a truck it goes out in fields muddy dusty roads.
Nice, but I think that is where it is already,
And I did a vid on it
Agree all day long, disregard last comment Lol
I dont recall seeing these on square body Chevy s.
Friend had a 75 cutlass ,charcoal canister in engine compartment passengers side just behind the headlamp.
Wow! Running water near the electrical outlet, not cleaning out the corn stalks while you are there, destroying those clips and saying 'not a big deal', wwwhhhheewww. MY OCD is on fire right now. I hope you are not a 'real' mechanic and this is a hobby.
Yeah I’m one of those fly by night ones that gets it done without selling extra parts that go into land fills
Also using deionized water will not conduct electricity, it will be ok. Thanks
“Deionized” water from a hose? No. When you are flushing the can out…an extension cord is right there by your puddle. SLOPPY! And corn stocks do not go int land fills. SLOPPY!!!
Yeah I like clean water, and I did not mean the corn stocks go to land fill, I meant the big plastic charcoal canister box going to land fill. As far as the corn stock I usually let those for a real mechanic😂
What happens when you take it off and turn it upside down and the charcoal pours out of it. Do I need to get a new one?
Yeah I would, the screen inside that holds carbon back is bad. You risk getting carbon in purge valve and you will have more issues
Too late, I had to change that also the purge valve that is, it was full of carbon beads. It had my tahoe burning gas and running rough. I change everything all the way back to the canister and the vent valve. Thanks for the reply
Electric cord ,metal grate water hose ,look out!
Think it was unplugged though.
Awesome video thanks brah saveded me some headaches and 💰 A+++
2005 Denali same shut off problem no trouble codes or engine lights. I can't afford a new canister right now. So I'm going to pull that vent hose off the canister. Sounds like if it solves the problem, the canister is plugged up. Damn right I'll give this a shot, what do I have to loose. Long as the truck takes gas and I don't get any code's or check engine lights I'm good. I don't care if the damn canister winds up empty or not, wasn't working anymore anyways.
frickin' engineers and their plastic "E-Z Break" clips
I know your pain
Still working for you or did it end up failing again?
Still working
Do you know if this works with a canister full of charcoal beads?
Yes that is what Is in this one
All this plastic that gets old and starts to brittle and break off . How about purging the vapers into a propane tank and saving it for barbecue ? Your going get your money back .
Never have done this to any of my vehicles but did on a freinds 3500 five yrs ago. No issues as of yet.👍🏼
After blowing it out I'd fill the canister with some 91% or better Isopropyl Alcohol. It will help prevent that remaining water from pooling at the very bottom of your tank by dispersing something like 50% of the same volume of water. Iso-Heet would be perfect. Add maybe 12 ounces, seal the ports and give the canister a whole bunch of rolls and shakes, make sure its fully dispersed. open the ports back up. dump it out. install.
That would work too
did vid out to permantly remove evap can.
I have not but could maybe,
For ALL those that are like “water is gonna mess it up!” Let it dry over night or go buy a new one. That easy!!🤪
I have a 2032 Silverado 1500 and I’ve had the problem of the canister filling up with dirt. The truck is still under warranty and the GM dealership will not honour the warranty and fix the problem instead they charged me for the fix. Shame on you GM. Maybe I should look at buying something other than GM for my next vehicle.
That’s bs, I’d be mad
William Burroughs must be in Sioux City where truck loads of activated carbon is sent. Yes, bad location for the fuel tanks vent valve, but you need to open it up for cleaning. I got 3 table spoons of dirt out of one. Many shops replace them because they don’t come apart and are normally open with no power. So fuel vapors/air passes thru the canister and heats up due to an exothermic reaction. The activated carbon inside is the size of sand, but with thousands of tiny holes. It attracts the hydrocarbon and hold it until the conditions are right, the PCM opens the purge valve and sucks the fumes in. Fuel vapors burn and you paid for them. It creates an endothermic reaction, cooling. The tanks vent is wrapped loosely in those odd white tube socks to create an external filter before damaging the valve. The carbon has felt, plus a plastic screen that’s reinforced pushing all to one end to keep from breaking. The black was carbon, while the brown was dirt. If you can hear particles inside during shaking, replace it. It depends, but on the hose end, will suck into the purge valve, then into the intake and combustion chambers. BAD at this point, but clean the purge line out. Engineers don’t get out of their “Cube Farms” where they live. They think everyone has internet and all roads are paved! Wrong! The tank valve closes when commanded by time of driving. So when the PCM’s clock says 8 hours have passed, closed the tank valve, open the purge, watch the tank sensors signal in inches of water. Once it hits 8 inches of H2O, it closes and seals the tank. As long as the level of fuel is between 80% of full, and 20% of empty. This is the criteria for testing the EVAP system. So, tank valve can’t seal because it’s dirty, it will degrade vacuum to 12 inches of H2O in 2 minutes, it’s a small leak and since it’s a type “A” code, due to run-a-way hydrocarbons (Going Straight to California / the Land of Fruits & Nuts), and they CEL comes on the dash, behind the black tape. Simple aaah?
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired from killing “Snail-Darters” & “Delta-Smelt Fish Bait”
Unfortunately those clips come from 3 different companies to fit the hose/fitting size. This way, they don’t have to pay thousands in re-tooling cost to make each one the same.....and easy to remove. Hell, they don’t even solder 3 or more wires in the harness anymore since they found out that induction welding (Controlled Melting) or joining wires can be done. Cheaper, quicker and no soldering. Remember, wiring harnesses are spread out on a painted sheet of plywood, with nails, clips and arrows with words for special notes and colors. All done by hand. Each are cut, insulation stripped, terminals crimped, inserted into plastic connects. Then it’s taken to a test board, where everything is plugged in, and voltage, correct current or amperage is drawn to the other side with all lights. If one fails, a team figures out why and fixes it. Once passed, then the harness it tapped, covered with tubing or rubber, mounting clips, molded harness channels, then the P/N, day, plant and shift indicator is taped on in two locations. The harness is the 6th most expensive product on the vehicle.
You all have a good day now!
hey thanks for explaniation...why am turning into the get off my lawn guy driving older ob1 or older vehicles
@@deankay4434thankyou, I wondered how a wiring harness, was manufactured.
@@miguelcastaneda7236 I had a neighbor who was scared to death of air bags. His car had two at best. I told him that a nylon skin burn from an air was not a bad as tasting a glass windshield! I tried to explain that seat belts come first, then if the impact was the same as hitting a solid brick wall at 30 MPH, he may change his mind. The story of how Sammy Davis Jr. lost an eye was driving a 59 Cadillac in Vegas and the car in front of him stopped completely. He hit them and the metal horn button shaped like the nose of an airplane hit his eye. He was not wearing a seatbelt. I think seat belts were required in 1966 as pickup trucks was July of 1970. The largest tail fins came on the 1960 Cadillac, while the only Corvette produced with a spilt rear window was 1963. Very rare to find one as management said no, to hard to see out the back using the mirror! Stay safe in 2023, which still sounds strange to say!
@@TOOLMAN4hvac A job listing January 13th at American Autowire had a warehouse tech position and listed a requirement for "Resistance Welding of Wires" as in auto body, spot welding is called "Resistance Welding" so if the heat can be controlled, you can spot weld 3+ wires together to connect some ground circuits. Mine was in the factory harness of an 03 truck, but GM uses "SPXXX" or splice packs follow by 3 numbers to provide I.D. an location. C= connector, G= ground and the front bumper to firewall is area 100, "A" pillar is "200", under the dash & front seats is "300" and so on. Any splice in the harness wether mechanical or welded is within 13" Left or Right of an indicated landmark, say the center console. It is simply location guide to find a connector, ground, splice or splice pack that contains one wire to ground, all the other wires need ground, so the removable part of a splice pack is plastic but contains a once piece metal stamped "Comb" looking connector. It is used on serial data and grounds. But not CAN (GM-LAN) because they are separate and twisted 9 times per foot to offset any nearby RFI.
Great presentation and it really works. I fixed my gmc exactly as you showed in your video. The truck is running great and at the pump the only click I hear is when the tank is full. Thanks alot.
Thank You glad it worked for you. I know the pain of trying to fill a tank for 30 minutes and still never get it full
Is it still working fine?
@mohamedhosini2103 yes it is working great. I have filled the tank several times with ease and the error code disappeared day one and has not returned.
Good day Do you remember if washing out was OK. Thanks
Yes worked great
@@HighOctane101 Good thanks
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Incredible production quality on this, at least the first 9 minutes, haven't finished it yet, but awesome video, thanks for sharing : )
Question, works washing it ?
it sure did, some will say it ruins it but the carbon dries out
Anyway to delete/ bypass this?
Yeah there is, not sure if you want to attempt it, best if you cut it apart and clean everything out and glue or melt back together and no one will ever know
Stupid connectors..I just replace them with rubber fuel hose
Muy excelente firma de explicación y muchas gracias.
Will a bit of water end up in your fuel system by flushing all that water through the canister? I know you blew it out , but getting it all out seems impossible unless you let it sit outside for a week in the dessert 🤷🏻♂️
I believe it will dry out better after every regen, never had any problems with it