I was ready to jump off the end of the internet 😢, UNTIL I found your post. Everyone talked about how easy it was, but no one actually explained how to remove them, except you. It took me an entire day trying to remove them. After watching your video, it took more time to replace it with the new than it did to remove it. I have subscribed to your channel. THANKS!
My Friend .. you are a blessing from the sky. I SPENT COUNTLESS HOURS trying to figure out the evap code. I brought it to specialists (3 different places)only to have them rob me by claim they fixed something that I already tried. One even went as far as saying that I put the purge valve on backwards and charged me $758. I went through everything.... 1. Gas cap 2. Purge valve and hose. 3. evap canister. 4. smoke test (4xs) . Some shops didn't even want to bother because they said it was a big job to find it. Last shop charged me $903.. only to tell me that it was a MAF sensor that was damaged along with the PCV hose. I questioned them because they said they smoke the vacuum line but not the EVAP LINES. I gave them the benefit of the doubt because they were "specialists". It turns out that they (just like the rest) Cleared the code only to come back after about 40 miles. I didn't even call them back right away. I FOUND YOUR VIDEO, JUMPED OUT OF MY CHAIR, BOUGHT A NEW CHARCOAL CANISTER AND INSTALLED!!!!!!!!!!!! AND GUESS WHAT??????????????????? AFTER YEARS OF THAT LIGHT ON MY 2014 CHEVY EXPRESS 4500 CUTAWAY SHUTTLE BUS. i love you for this..... oh and after I repaired it, I went back to the shop and thank god they gave me a FULL REFUND!... Again, Thank you for this information.
WOW, that's absolutely wild! I'm so glad they gave you a refund! Not really sure why they were looking at the vacuum lines, pretty sure that's a separate system. I'm beyond happy for you to have finally got the issue resolved, and sometimes, if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself!
Dude thank you! Just saved me $800 quotes to replace the 3 parts and clear the lines.. I was scared to drop the fuel tank on my own.. you vacuum/ air compressor idea worked 100%! Saved me $800 bucks and a long weekend arguing with the wife lol
You sir made the best video on this defective Vapor canister. I pulled mine off after watching your video, and carbon beads flew everywhere. I then took a Shop-Vac with the small attachment and sucked the big lines clear. You saved me hundreds of dollars. This was on 2010 Tahoe.
Excellent video. This is the only video I found that talked about the charcoal trapped in the lines. If I did not view this I may have replaced the canister without clearing the lines and would have still had the problem. It took several tries of vacuuming and pressuring the tank until the large line to the tank was finally cleared. Thanks 👍🙂
I have watched about 50 of theses videos and this if the best so far your the only person I seen clean out the lines I wouldn't of thought of that now hopefully this fix my problem before having to take my tank down
the guys changed mine ('05 Yukon) about 8 weeks ago, and the check engine light has just come back on- I'll take it in again and see if they can clean more charcoal out of those lines- thanks so much for posting this video!
Thx dude - your video made the difference between success & failure - these connectors are difficult to workout when under the car - thx so much - your video enabled me to do the job myself for $70 instead of putting it to the shop and blowing $1000 (on a 2004 Yukon XL the canister is obscured by the spare tire, the diff & the prop shaft - so makes the job difficult (but still manageable) on this specific vehicle.
This was the fix for me, thanks! I already replaced my charcoal canister and it had charcoal spilling out, but I had not seen your video yet. Well, that didn't fix it because the fat line to the tank was full of charcoal. I blew air in the tank and charcoal went everywhere. Banging on the hose and slapping it around loosened the charcoal and I vacuumed out about 2 cups of charcoal. Great tip!
That is what I am having trouble with right now. I hit all of them with some WD40 so hopefully, they will be easier to slide off tomorrow. I am pressing the sides to make sure the lil clips are open, but they still won't slide off. How did you get yours off?
Bro thank you! I had been looking for a video on how to clean out the lines without dropping the tank. Vacuuming them i did not think about. That was pretty cool
Did this to my 2014 gmc Yukon xl (gas would click after 3 seconds of pumping and taking 30 min. Fill up) did the vacuum and blowing of gas and lines 4 to five times it worked like a charm thank you!!!!!!
What type of vacuum do you recommend to be used? Can I use a regular rigid vac in I got from Home Depot? I use this to vacuum my vehicles carpet and seats.
Old video, I have the exact issue on my 10 Yukon I picked up- when you pressurize the tank- does that work for all models or just the body style you have? I’d hate to drop the tank and clear the lines
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. My gas gauge is always showing full. Can a bad gas pump and sending unit be the culprit?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I doubt that the pump & sending unit would have any effect on filling with gas. That falls more into airflow restriction in the tubing. Try vacuuming and blowing all the lines out.
Great video. I replaced my canister with a new one without vacuuming or pressurizing the lines and tank. Still experiencing the same problem at the gas pump. Does it matter how much gas should be in the tank when I finally pressurize it?
Great video as I'm trying to resolve the same exact issue on my 2010 Avalanche. I did not read ALL comments and have a question. When vacuuming the lines, were there fumes from the tank being pulled through the lines? Just want to ensure a safe, flame-free task. If there were, suggestions to minimize? Thank you, planning to swap mine asap. Josh
Dude you definitely helped me fixed it man you saved me a couple hundred bucks because i definitely don’t want pay a couple hundred bucks for a darn plastic box full of charcoal from a stealership and even on places like eBay and Amazon they’re still pricey actually a ripoff considering what they do and are made of again many thanks dude 🤔💯
I’m getting 0455 Large Evap leak. Replaced the gas cap twice. I don’t have an issue with the pump shutting off during fill up. I do have a faint gas smell. Any idea what I should check first?
Does the gas tank have to be empty to pressurize it with a compressor? Also if you use the shop vac to suck out the charcoal does it need to be empty as well
I have not had an issue with filling the tank. When removing the gas cap, there i is a rush of air. This has been happening close to a year. Lately, the Suburban will idle fine, but stumble while driving and often stall or try to stall when slowing down. I'm wondering if it's the same issue.
Thanks for the best video on this project! Vacuuming the lines and blowing into the gas tank was perfect .. I’m not capable of dropping the gas tank. Lots of pellets came out when vacuuming! I’ve subscribed!
Thank you, well explained, mines it was messing with the gas too it made the rpm’s drop, thought it was the throttle body but it wasn’t it was the canister, thanks again
I have an 07 Yukon, started noticing strong gas fumes, sometimes acting up when cranking after it’s been ran, then it’s an absolute nightmare to put gas in it. Takes forever. First thing I did was change the purge valve, then replaced charcoal canister, and blew out the lines. As my luck would have it, trying to put gas it in is still a a pain. At first the fumes went away, after driving it a few times, they are back and it still acts up after a warm start. HELP!!!!! I am going insane!!!!! I don’t think this really matters, but my Yukon is cammed and tuned etc, surely that has zero to do with my issue/issues. ANY help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!
I squeezed that connector w/pliers and the ring with tabs (same connector as @1:10) got broke off. Can I glue it back? I can't find that return line (this is old car, 2001 Saturn SL2, I'm also replacing the Charcoal Canister). I think to glue it and add small cable ties. Will it work? I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. The second similar connector I removed successfully, also used small flat screwdrivers, but the connector came off only when I applied PB Blaster Penetrant. Thank you for the informative film.
@@dudewecanfixit Thank you very much for the replay, I'm just about to start that project (many things were on the way). I meant to glue the ring (better to say it is oval shaped) to the connector, kind of repair the damaged connector. I've seen one film about melting the plastic w/Soldering Iron. Thought the project I saw was on the larger item (Headlight Holder), he melted back a broken ear to the holder, strengthening the attachment w/Steel Wool #0000. It came to be very strong. In my case probably I don't need it (I mean Steel Wool), but I'll try. But it is a good idea to add an electric tape on the connection, I'll do that, especially that connector is old and might be not really good since got to be not so elastic as it should. The best way of course would be to replace those connectors on both hoses, but I don't know that technique yet, as well as don't have the corresponding Tool Kit. Thank you again.
Thank you I have an 03 sonoma and I was trying to figure out how to remove the plastic connector and saw what i needed in the first 2 minutes the rest is self explanatory.
Thank you for the video its very good and was very helpful! A quick question, you pressurized the tank from the neck while the lines were disconnected. Is this so the air coming back out of the gas tank will blow through those vent lines which are disconnected from the canister
The one big line connects to the gas tank. The smaller line connects to the purge valve under the hood. You should also push air back from the purge valve down the small line. He did not show this step in the video. If the evap line sucked those beads they will come all the way to the engine.
I have the problem you describe but i do not have the faultcode. When i fill gas tank it builds up in the hose and turns off the refill handle. Do you know if i have one of these canisters on my Suburban 2009? Great video!
Man I have been looking for months about how to do this properly. This is the only video I have found that shows you how to properly clear the lines. I replaced my canister and didn’t clear the lines and everything that I thought I fixed came back the same day, it was a glorious 15 minutes of driving before the light came back on throwing the same code and went right back to idling like there was a freezing elephant in the back. Now I will probably have to buy another canister and clean the lines, the big question I have now is can the canister itself be cleaned?
Dang, that sucks! The canister itself is a sealed unit. You might be able to blow air through it and pull vacuum on it to get any residual charcoal beads out
Nice video. My question is that if the charcoal canister can be cleaned, as shown in the video then why should one install a new charcoal canister? Wouldn't the old one get the job done after removing all the charcoal?
Without the charcoal, the canister no longer serves its intended purpose. It may work and not cause a code on your vehicle, however, I am not sure what unintended consequences may be caused.
Please help! I have a 2014 chevrolet equinox and need to replace the vapor canister can you please tell me the process or point me to where I can find instructions on how to do it. Will gas come out of the lines when I disconnect them
I'm not familiar with the layout on the Chevy equinox. I would suggest wearing a face shield or at least safety glasses when removing it as it could have pressurized gas inside
The newer Chevy's have a separate fuse that provides power to the obd port. Check all your fuses in cabin fuse box. If you open the drivers door, there should be a panel on the side of the dash for access to the fuse panel.
Man everyone told me to drop the tank and clean the lines,and they thought I was dumb doing this same thing to my H2😂❤It’s vacuum lines,so vacuum the dam things🤯
I had the same problem with my daughter's 2001 Hyundai Accent. Liquid gasoline had gotten into the charcoal canister, dissolving a foam membrane in the canister that is supposed to keep the charcoal in, and allowed the granules to clog the hoses. In that case, I was able to cut the canister open and replace the foam membrane with a piece of metal window screen, and epoxy the canister back together. It worked for years until we junked the car because of a bad transmission.
What causes the gas from the canister to travel to the lines, I was wondering if something has damaged the canister in the first place, the rumor has it overfilling the gas tank may be the reason. Thanks for posting
If you overfill the tank the cannister gets logged with raw gasoline, when the fill pump trips off stop filling then, adding more doesn’t do you any favors
Thanks, that was very helpful, i noticed the canister you showed fitted in the car is different than the one you showed taken out. the one in the car have a cylindrical part?!!!
I've done everything in your video, but I'm still having the same problem. I also did this with a full tank, but just noticed you said below you wouldn't do it with a full tank? Why? and do you have any further suggestions to fix the issue?
I wouldn’t do it with a full tank just because I would be concerned of gas more likely coming out of some of the lines. If you have a new charcoal canister, you may need to replace your purge valve. I don’t have a video on that yet
@@dudewecanfixit I replaced the purge valve, the charcoal cannister and the evap solenoid. I pressurized the gas tank as you did, which did push out some carbon under the truck. I then vacuumed the lines from under the truck and then blew out the evap line from the purge valve back. Got some more carbon bits out, but not a lot. I'll go back to the gas station soon. If the problem is still there, I'm probably going to have to drop the gas tank and disconnect and blow out all the lines as you can't get a good vacuum on the lines around the corners of the tank. My cannister was full of loose charcoal bits and I've had this problem for a while, so I think my lines my be a little more packed than your were. What are your thoughts? You think I'm on the right path?
I believe you are on the right path, there are not many components in the system, and I think you have replaced them all. Get those lines cleaned out and see what happens
@@DrAlexanderHamilton Those canisters come with small carbon balls so that normal. Its possible some of the carbon balls got into one of the lines & clogged it up. You can thank these wacko environmentalist for all this emissions bs. A little gas vapors exhausted when filling your tank isn't hurting anything. Also some evap systems are more complex but there's not much that could go wrong. They also make canister delete kits.
@@wandameadows5736don't want to do the cannister delete kit as they actually check for that in inspection where i live. i actually plan to drop the gas tank today and blow out the lines. Looks like that's the only way I'm going to fix this. I tried vacuuming out the lines from under the truck and blowing out the evap line from the purge valve under the engine hood, but it looks like that not enough to get all the carbon out around the curves in the lines. Hopefully this works. Any other advice?
I have a 03 gmc yukon I can not locate this canister at all...I've changed the purge valve and evap vent selinoid and its still saying evap vent problem...
Just a simple question to any who's experienced this before: is a P0446 the link to a necessary charcoal canister replacement as well as linked to gas pump clicking off when not full?
I replaced the vent solenoid and charcoal canister sucked out the lines put pressure in the filler neck the only charcoal that came out was what was in the charcoal canister I'm gonna replace the vent next to the filler neck and see if that will fix it
@dudewecanfixit thank you for responding yes I am I haven't had a chance to check the vent tube I'm on blood Thinners from a heart attack after doing what I did the next day I felt like I was in a car wreck, I'm looking at buying a scanner
@@dudewecanfixit A Warner Brothers cartoon character. “My name is Cleophus. Let’s me and you wrassle, yuck yuck yuck!” Similar to the cat character who says “But I can’t say Sylvester, George.” Basically big, strong, and a little slow. 😂
Man I have had this issues for months and it is extremely annoying. I've replaced the charcoal canister, EVAP canister and the EVAP sensor on the front of the engine with no luck. I didn't think to pressurize the tank though...will give that a shot tonight to see if that works
@@dudewecanfixit yes definitely before trying this I could only get 4gal of grass total now I can get around 12gal. Already a huge improvement. Btw y'all 4l60e rebuild video was phenomenal and helped me rebuild mine about 2weeks ago. 400miles later and it's running great
It shouldn't effect mpg cause its only designed to capture the extra gas vapors that need to escape your system when putting gas in your car. The evap system takes the extra vapors & reintroduces them into the fueling system threw the purge value & if your purge value goes bad you'll get a check engine light but I know on most cars there's no code for a bad charcoal canister. The only problem this canister causes when clogged is when your pumping gas. It will cause the gas nozzle to keep cutting off after a little is added & in bad cases it could cause the gas to be ejected back out the gas tank filler neck. Back in the day they didn't have these canisters, your extra fumes would be exhausted into the air when you pump gas. Its just another example of the problems all this emission crap causes. In your case though it has nothing to do with mpg.
Fantastic explanation! There is an egr valve on the engine that may cause some performance and mileage issues, but I believe that is a separate system from the charcoal canister and purge valve
Could you also turn the vehicle on with the canister on and let the excess come out the lines by the selves, im sure vapor will but if its that much in there shouldnt it push it out also, i dont have a shop vac on hand
@dudewecanfixit oh damn, well good thing I didn't trust my intrusive thoughts. I'm working on the vent solenoid now, but I'll check the lines again and see if I can't disconnect them from the tank and see if anything comes out. I know the old canister was saturated though because i would shake it like crazy and you couldn't hear the charcoal moving until I dropped it on the ground lol
Can the Charcoal Canister fail without the symptom of fuel not entering the tank?. A P0449 code stays on even after Evap Solenoid replacement on a 2004 Silverado 2500 6.0 LQ4. Possibly the Purge Valve Solenoid on the engine?
I also have a 2004 Chevrolet 2500 Silverado. I'm showing "Check Engine" light. Smog Check tech showed me Code P0446. Had EVAP Vent Selinoid Value changed twice. Running truck now to see if Check Engine light comes back on. The first time I had EVAP Vent Selinoid Value replaced I hD driven 57 miles before Check engine light displayed again. If Check engine light comes back on 3rd attempt will need to find a more competent mechanic and shop near me. Keeping my fingers crossed. P0446 error - related issues, bad gas cap, fuel pressure sensor, EVAP Vent Selinoid Value etc. All ECM (Engine Control Module) electrical signal issues. I hate emission systems.
New video alert! th-cam.com/video/eT_slcxBV1Q/w-d-xo.html
I was ready to jump off the end of the internet 😢, UNTIL I found your post. Everyone talked about how easy it was, but no one actually explained how to remove them, except you. It took me an entire day trying to remove them. After watching your video, it took more time to replace it with the new than it did to remove it. I have subscribed to your channel. THANKS!
Glad it helped!
100% he is my hero. I went through so much stress. this man is my hero.
My Friend .. you are a blessing from the sky. I SPENT COUNTLESS HOURS trying to figure out the evap code. I brought it to specialists (3 different places)only to have them rob me by claim they fixed something that I already tried. One even went as far as saying that I put the purge valve on backwards and charged me $758. I went through everything.... 1. Gas cap 2. Purge valve and hose. 3. evap canister. 4. smoke test (4xs) . Some shops didn't even want to bother because they said it was a big job to find it. Last shop charged me $903.. only to tell me that it was a MAF sensor that was damaged along with the PCV hose. I questioned them because they said they smoke the vacuum line but not the EVAP LINES. I gave them the benefit of the doubt because they were "specialists". It turns out that they (just like the rest) Cleared the code only to come back after about 40 miles. I didn't even call them back right away. I FOUND YOUR VIDEO, JUMPED OUT OF MY CHAIR, BOUGHT A NEW CHARCOAL CANISTER AND INSTALLED!!!!!!!!!!!! AND GUESS WHAT??????????????????? AFTER YEARS OF THAT LIGHT ON MY 2014 CHEVY EXPRESS 4500 CUTAWAY SHUTTLE BUS. i love you for this..... oh and after I repaired it, I went back to the shop and thank god they gave me a FULL REFUND!... Again, Thank you for this information.
WOW, that's absolutely wild! I'm so glad they gave you a refund! Not really sure why they were looking at the vacuum lines, pretty sure that's a separate system.
I'm beyond happy for you to have finally got the issue resolved, and sometimes, if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself!
Dude thank you! Just saved me $800 quotes to replace the 3 parts and clear the lines..
I was scared to drop the fuel tank on my own.. you vacuum/ air compressor idea worked 100%! Saved me $800 bucks and a long weekend arguing with the wife lol
Glad it helped
Brother I'm with you on this one 👍
You sir made the best video on this defective Vapor canister. I pulled mine off after watching your video, and carbon beads flew everywhere. I then took a Shop-Vac with the small attachment and sucked the big lines clear. You saved me hundreds of dollars. This was on 2010 Tahoe.
That's fantastic! I'm glad you got it fixed!
Excellent video. This is the only video I found that talked about the charcoal trapped in the lines. If I did not view this I may have replaced the canister without clearing the lines and would have still had the problem. It took several tries of vacuuming and pressuring the tank until the large line to the tank was finally cleared. Thanks 👍🙂
I'm glad you got it cleared up!
I have watched about 50 of theses videos and this if the best so far your the only person I seen clean out the lines I wouldn't of thought of that now hopefully this fix my problem before having to take my tank down
I hope this fixes your problem!
the guys changed mine ('05 Yukon) about 8 weeks ago, and the check engine light has just come back on- I'll take it in again and see if they can clean more charcoal out of those lines- thanks so much for posting this video!
Glad we could help!
Hopefully they get it resolved!
Thx dude - your video made the difference between success & failure - these connectors are difficult to workout when under the car - thx so much - your video enabled me to do the job myself for $70 instead of putting it to the shop and blowing $1000 (on a 2004 Yukon XL the canister is obscured by the spare tire, the diff & the prop shaft - so makes the job difficult (but still manageable) on this specific vehicle.
I’m glad I was able to help you out! Please subscribe to my channel.
@@dudewecanfixit already done - thx again
Nice I’m having same isssue with 2004 escalade
@@johnhernandez1803 think I dropped the wheel….
@@flyingscot3666 I don’t have a spare under but I can’t seem to see it , I see the gas tank and filler but not the carbon filter
Awesome video. Only one that I found that didn’t involve dropping fuel tank. Saved me a ton of time and made this a simple repair job. Thank you!
Happy we were able to help! Consider coming back if you need anything else 😁
This was the fix for me, thanks! I already replaced my charcoal canister and it had charcoal spilling out, but I had not seen your video yet. Well, that didn't fix it because the fat line to the tank was full of charcoal. I blew air in the tank and charcoal went everywhere. Banging on the hose and slapping it around loosened the charcoal and I vacuumed out about 2 cups of charcoal. Great tip!
Worked perfect for me. Hardest part was taking the lines off of the canister but now I don’t need to spend 20 minutes trying to fuel up
That is what I am having trouble with right now. I hit all of them with some WD40 so hopefully, they will be easier to slide off tomorrow. I am pressing the sides to make sure the lil clips are open, but they still won't slide off. How did you get yours off?
great video, no fumbling , no false starts , no confusion, nicely photographed . Thank You sir.
Thanks 👍
i am confused should i drain the gas?
I recommend doing this with a half tank or less
Bro thank you! I had been looking for a video on how to clean out the lines without dropping the tank. Vacuuming them i did not think about. That was pretty cool
Beautiful video! I love how easy you made this look
Thanks!
Instead of replacing the evaporator canister could I reuse it after clearing the lines?
Great video. Just did this this morning and it worked! Thanks for saving me a bunch of money and hassle. 2009 Tahoe
That's awesome! It's always great to DIY and save money!
When you vacuum the gas hose did gas came out? I have a bout less than 1/4 tank right on my Tahoe. Thanks
No, the gas didn't come out.
Hey. Nice video. Is it the same on third gens? 2014 Tahoe LT flex fuel over here
Did this to my 2014 gmc Yukon xl (gas would click after 3 seconds of pumping and taking 30 min. Fill up) did the vacuum and blowing of gas and lines 4 to five times it worked like a charm thank you!!!!!!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
What type of vacuum do you recommend to be used? Can I use a regular rigid vac in I got from Home Depot? I use this to vacuum my vehicles carpet and seats.
Excellent video! Was looking at other videos, and they did not go into detail like you.
Old video, I have the exact issue on my 10 Yukon I picked up- when you pressurize the tank- does that work for all models or just the body style you have? I’d hate to drop the tank and clear the lines
I think it would work for that year range
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. My gas gauge is always showing full. Can a bad gas pump and sending unit be the culprit?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I doubt that the pump & sending unit would have any effect on filling with gas. That falls more into airflow restriction in the tubing. Try vacuuming and blowing all the lines out.
Great video. I replaced my canister with a new one without vacuuming or pressurizing the lines and tank. Still experiencing the same problem at the gas pump. Does it matter how much gas should be in the tank when I finally pressurize it?
I don't think that it really matters, but I would recommend below a half tank
Did it work after you vacuum the lines and pressurized the gas tank? @downsouthdeebo1346
Great video as I'm trying to resolve the same exact issue on my 2010 Avalanche. I did not read ALL comments and have a question. When vacuuming the lines, were there fumes from the tank being pulled through the lines? Just want to ensure a safe, flame-free task. If there were, suggestions to minimize?
Thank you, planning to swap mine asap.
Josh
Yes, there can be fumes getting sucked through the lines
Dude you definitely helped me fixed it man you saved me a couple hundred bucks because i definitely don’t want pay a couple hundred bucks for a darn plastic box full of charcoal from a stealership and even on places like eBay and Amazon they’re still pricey actually a ripoff considering what they do and are made of again many thanks dude 🤔💯
I'm glad to be of service! Also, great job getting it fixed!
Is it safe to pressurize the fuel tank while it is full of gas??
Yes, but wear safety glasses
4:01 Before blowing air into fuel tank, did you have to empty fuel tank? Or is it safe blow air without emptying fuel tank? Thanks
I’m getting 0455 Large Evap leak. Replaced the gas cap twice. I don’t have an issue with the pump shutting off during fill up. I do have a faint gas smell. Any idea what I should check first?
Maybe check the operation of the vent valve that is connected to the charcoal canister via a tube
Does the gas tank have to be empty to pressurize it with a compressor? Also if you use the shop vac to suck out the charcoal does it need to be empty as well
The tank does not need to be empty for either of these methods.
I have not had an issue with filling the tank. When removing the gas cap, there i is a rush of air. This has been happening close to a year.
Lately, the Suburban will idle fine, but stumble while driving and often stall or try to stall when slowing down.
I'm wondering if it's the same issue.
Is there any concern on using the shop vac and the gas vapor out of those line?
There probably is a concern there, proceed with caution
Does the new canister has charcoal inside?? Or there is posible to clean the old one?
The new canister does have charcoal inside. However, the screen that retains it is still intact.
Thanks for the best video on this project! Vacuuming the lines and blowing into the gas tank was perfect .. I’m not capable of dropping the gas tank. Lots of pellets came out when vacuuming! I’ve subscribed!
You are welcome!
Is it under the spare tire
How long did you vacuum the lines! I replaced everything and my gas is still stoping when I pump
About 15 seconds per line. It sounds like you still have a restriction somewhere
Will this give the same symptoms of a bad fuel pump?
No, bad fuel pump will not allow your vehicle to run
should fuel tank be empty or does it not matter?
It does not need to be empty, but I would recommend it be less than a half tank.
Is sucking gas fumes into an electric vac the best idea?
It’s not not the best idea
Thank you, well explained, mines it was messing with the gas too it made the rpm’s drop, thought it was the throttle body but it wasn’t it was the canister, thanks again
Glad it helped
Did you have to drop the spare tire to get to the canister?
I don't remember, but I don't think so
does the tank have to empty to blow air in the system?
No, but I wouldn't do it with a full tank
Do I have to empty my gas tank to do this?
No, but preferably the tank is less than half full
Would this create a constant smell of fuel from rear of vehicle?
I'm not sure about that.
I have an 07 Yukon, started noticing strong gas fumes, sometimes acting up when cranking after it’s been ran, then it’s an absolute nightmare to put gas in it. Takes forever. First thing I did was change the purge valve, then replaced charcoal canister, and blew out the lines. As my luck would have it, trying to put gas it in is still a a pain. At first the fumes went away, after driving it a few times, they are back and it still acts up after a warm start. HELP!!!!! I am going insane!!!!! I don’t think this really matters, but my Yukon is cammed and tuned etc, surely that has zero to do with my issue/issues. ANY help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!
Did you vacuum and blow the lines out?
@@dudewecanfixit blew them out.
Have to leave my engine running when i refuel. Great video. I subscribed. Thanks!
Thanks for the sub and thank you for supporting! We greatly appreciate it
I squeezed that connector w/pliers and the ring with tabs (same connector as @1:10) got broke off. Can I glue it back? I can't find that return line (this is old car, 2001 Saturn SL2, I'm also replacing the Charcoal Canister). I think to glue it and add small cable ties. Will it work? I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. The second similar connector I removed successfully, also used small flat screwdrivers, but the connector came off only when I applied PB Blaster Penetrant. Thank you for the informative film.
Glue will work as this is not under a lot of pressure. However, it may be hard to remove later. I would try to use electrical tape instead
@@dudewecanfixit Thank you very much for the replay, I'm just about to start that project (many things were on the way). I meant to glue the ring (better to say it is oval shaped) to the connector, kind of repair the damaged connector. I've seen one film about melting the plastic w/Soldering Iron. Thought the project I saw was on the larger item (Headlight Holder), he melted back a broken ear to the holder, strengthening the attachment w/Steel Wool #0000. It came to be very strong. In my case probably I don't need it (I mean Steel Wool), but I'll try. But it is a good idea to add an electric tape on the connection, I'll do that, especially that connector is old and might be not really good since got to be not so elastic as it should. The best way of course would be to replace those connectors on both hoses, but I don't know that technique yet, as well as don't have the corresponding Tool Kit. Thank you again.
Thank you I have an 03 sonoma and I was trying to figure out how to remove the plastic connector and saw what i needed in the first 2 minutes the rest is self explanatory.
I'm glad you got it
is there a way for not the bits of charcoal to be blocked before it goes to the lines
?
I think there's a mesh inside of the evap canister that fails and allows the charcoal to circulate
Thank you for the video its very good and was very helpful! A quick question, you pressurized the tank from the neck while the lines were disconnected. Is this so the air coming back out of the gas tank will blow through those vent lines which are disconnected from the canister
Yes
The one big line connects to the gas tank. The smaller line connects to the purge valve under the hood. You should also push air back from the purge valve down the small line. He did not show this step in the video. If the evap line sucked those beads they will come all the way to the engine.
is that failure in charcoal canister case fuel smell?
I'm not sure if that would cause it. Where is the smell coming from
Very good video. Thanks for taking the time to show the process.
Thank you for watching!
I have the problem you describe but i do not have the faultcode. When i fill gas tank it builds up in the hose and turns off the refill handle. Do you know if i have one of these canisters on my Suburban 2009? Great video!
I'm sure you have a canister. It may look different, but it will serve the same purpose
I'm doing my 08 suburban now, how did it go?
@@natashaolson711 i sold the car before I had time to do it 😂
Man I have been looking for months about how to do this properly. This is the only video I have found that shows you how to properly clear the lines. I replaced my canister and didn’t clear the lines and everything that I thought I fixed came back the same day, it was a glorious 15 minutes of driving before the light came back on throwing the same code and went right back to idling like there was a freezing elephant in the back. Now I will probably have to buy another canister and clean the lines, the big question I have now is can the canister itself be cleaned?
Dang, that sucks! The canister itself is a sealed unit. You might be able to blow air through it and pull vacuum on it to get any residual charcoal beads out
Nice video. My question is that if the charcoal canister can be cleaned, as shown in the video then why should one install a new charcoal canister? Wouldn't the old one get the job done after removing all the charcoal?
Without the charcoal, the canister no longer serves its intended purpose. It may work and not cause a code on your vehicle, however, I am not sure what unintended consequences may be caused.
I broke the plastic pieces that holds the canister is there a replacement for that ?
Best bet is get one from the junk yard.
Please help! I have a 2014 chevrolet equinox and need to replace the vapor canister can you please tell me the process or point me to where I can find instructions on how to do it. Will gas come out of the lines when I disconnect them
I'm not familiar with the layout on the Chevy equinox. I would suggest wearing a face shield or at least safety glasses when removing it as it could have pressurized gas inside
@@dudewecanfixit Thanks for the quick reply. I still can't find instructions but thanks anyway.
I literally always learn from these videos
Love to hear it! Thank you for watching
Hi, in order to blow out the lines through the gas cap hole, does the tank have to be empty?
No, it does not need to be empty. As long as the gas tank isn't all the way full you should be fine
@@dudewecanfixit thank you !
Does the fuel tank have to be empty?
The tank does not have to be empty. However, I would recommend having it at least halfway empty
Awesome video! does the tank have fuel in it sir??
Less than half a tank
Awesome video! Going to replace my vap canister tomorrow.
Can it just be plugged
It's not recommended
Using a pick tool for the bendable connector worked much easier for me while still attached to the car.
Nice!
Stupid question. Maybe is it dangerous to vacuum them lines because of fumes on The shop vac.
My boy I don’t know who you are but you my friend are amazing
Thank you!
Now my question is after I fix this what if my obd2 port doesn’t work to clear the code?
The newer Chevy's have a separate fuse that provides power to the obd port. Check all your fuses in cabin fuse box. If you open the drivers door, there should be a panel on the side of the dash for access to the fuse panel.
Man everyone told me to drop the tank and clean the lines,and they thought I was dumb doing this same thing to my H2😂❤It’s vacuum lines,so vacuum the dam things🤯
If they're clear then they're clear!
The only way I would drop this tank is if the vacuum was not strong enough and I need to use compressed air
I had the same problem with my daughter's 2001 Hyundai Accent. Liquid gasoline had gotten into the charcoal canister, dissolving a foam membrane in the canister that is supposed to keep the charcoal in, and allowed the granules to clog the hoses. In that case, I was able to cut the canister open and replace the foam membrane with a piece of metal window screen, and epoxy the canister back together. It worked for years until we junked the car because of a bad transmission.
Do you have to drain the tank ?
Nope, no need to drain the tank. I wouldn't do it with a completely full tank though.
@@dudewecanfixit I just did your method with a full tank? What's the problem with doing it with a full tank?
Thank you very much now I'm ready to replace my canister on my Chevy suburban 2005👍
That's awesome, let us know how it goes!
What causes the gas from the canister to travel to the lines, I was wondering if something has damaged the canister in the first place, the rumor has it overfilling the gas tank may be the reason. Thanks for posting
The internal screen fails, I'm not sure what causes it though
If you overfill the tank the cannister gets logged with raw gasoline, when the fill pump trips off stop filling then, adding more doesn’t do you any favors
The truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth. Good work guys.
Thanks
Wow my guy this was so good absolutely understood clearly what I have to do great video 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Glad I could help
Hello. About how much would a shop charge me to fix my 07 trailblazer?
I don't know what the labor time or shop rate in your area is. You can call a local shop and get a price
Thanks, that was very helpful, i noticed the canister you showed fitted in the car is different than the one you showed taken out. the one in the car have a cylindrical part?!!!
Are you saying the replacement part looks different?
@@dudewecanfixit
Yes,
Many thanks to you, I had done the job with your assistance..
That's fantastic!
Glad we could help
Will this work with fuel in the tank?
Yes
What about charcoal in the line right up to valve ???
Get as much out as you can. Be thorough
On the pickups, there is a conversion kit for those who live in dusty conditions. Is there one for the Suburban, Yukon?
I'm not familiar with that product, but I believe the suburban and Yukon have the same charcoal canister as the trucks.
I've done everything in your video, but I'm still having the same problem. I also did this with a full tank, but just noticed you said below you wouldn't do it with a full tank? Why? and do you have any further suggestions to fix the issue?
I wouldn’t do it with a full tank just because I would be concerned of gas more likely coming out of some of the lines. If you have a new charcoal canister, you may need to replace your purge valve. I don’t have a video on that yet
@@dudewecanfixit I replaced the purge valve, the charcoal cannister and the evap solenoid. I pressurized the gas tank as you did, which did push out some carbon under the truck. I then vacuumed the lines from under the truck and then blew out the evap line from the purge valve back. Got some more carbon bits out, but not a lot. I'll go back to the gas station soon. If the problem is still there, I'm probably going to have to drop the gas tank and disconnect and blow out all the lines as you can't get a good vacuum on the lines around the corners of the tank. My cannister was full of loose charcoal bits and I've had this problem for a while, so I think my lines my be a little more packed than your were. What are your thoughts? You think I'm on the right path?
I believe you are on the right path, there are not many components in the system, and I think you have replaced them all. Get those lines cleaned out and see what happens
@@DrAlexanderHamilton Those canisters come with small carbon balls so that normal. Its possible some of the carbon balls got into one of the lines & clogged it up. You can thank these wacko environmentalist for all this emissions bs. A little gas vapors exhausted when filling your tank isn't hurting anything. Also some evap systems are more complex but there's not much that could go wrong. They also make canister delete kits.
@@wandameadows5736don't want to do the cannister delete kit as they actually check for that in inspection where i live. i actually plan to drop the gas tank today and blow out the lines. Looks like that's the only way I'm going to fix this. I tried vacuuming out the lines from under the truck and blowing out the evap line from the purge valve under the engine hood, but it looks like that not enough to get all the carbon out around the curves in the lines. Hopefully this works. Any other advice?
Will this issue cause the truck to hesitate to start?
It is possible, usually the check engine light and trouble filling the gas tank are the primary symptoms
Mine takes 2 times to crank ...trouble filling tank also ..
I think you're about to save me a lot of money
I hope so!
I have a 03 gmc yukon I can not locate this canister at all...I've changed the purge valve and evap vent selinoid and its still saying evap vent problem...
Damn lol It should be strapped underneath towards the back but I’m not sure. This job was a while back
Just replace my evap under the spare tire , Check engine came off no issues.
Recently i was pumping fuel and nozzle keeps stopping every 10s.
Great the check engine light is off! Is it still having issues pumping fuel?
Just a simple question to any who's experienced this before: is a P0446 the link to a necessary charcoal canister replacement as well as linked to gas pump clicking off when not full?
Yes, either the cannister or the vent valve/solenoid usually causes that code.
I replaced the vent solenoid and charcoal canister sucked out the lines put pressure in the filler neck the only charcoal that came out was what was in the charcoal canister I'm gonna replace the vent next to the filler neck and see if that will fix it
Are you still having issues?
@dudewecanfixit thank you for responding yes I am I haven't had a chance to check the vent tube I'm on blood Thinners from a heart attack after doing what I did the next day I felt like I was in a car wreck, I'm looking at buying a scanner
Was that Cleophus I saw in the background?
Possibly, lol.
Who is Cleophus?
@@dudewecanfixit A Warner Brothers cartoon character. “My name is Cleophus. Let’s me and you wrassle, yuck yuck yuck!” Similar to the cat character who says “But I can’t say Sylvester, George.” Basically big, strong, and a little slow. 😂
Thank you kindly for making that video
Man I have had this issues for months and it is extremely annoying. I've replaced the charcoal canister, EVAP canister and the EVAP sensor on the front of the engine with no luck. I didn't think to pressurize the tank though...will give that a shot tonight to see if that works
How did it work out for you?
@@dudewecanfixit it helped but I need to drop the tank and blow it fully out from the start of the hose. Years of charcoal build up
Gotcha. At least you're on the right track
@@dudewecanfixit yes definitely before trying this I could only get 4gal of grass total now I can get around 12gal. Already a huge improvement. Btw y'all 4l60e rebuild video was phenomenal and helped me rebuild mine about 2weeks ago. 400miles later and it's running great
That's fantastic! I'm glad to hear it. Please subscribe to our channel if you haven't already and feel free to ask any questions you have.
Could a bad charcoal canister cause me to have bad mpg?
It shouldn't effect mpg cause its only designed to capture the extra gas vapors that need to escape your system when putting gas in your car. The evap system takes the extra vapors & reintroduces them into the fueling system threw the purge value & if your purge value goes bad you'll get a check engine light but I know on most cars there's no code for a bad charcoal canister. The only problem this canister causes when clogged is when your pumping gas. It will cause the gas nozzle to keep cutting off after a little is added & in bad cases it could cause the gas to be ejected back out the gas tank filler neck. Back in the day they didn't have these canisters, your extra fumes would be exhausted into the air when you pump gas. Its just another example of the problems all this emission crap causes. In your case though it has nothing to do with mpg.
Fantastic explanation! There is an egr valve on the engine that may cause some performance and mileage issues, but I believe that is a separate system from the charcoal canister and purge valve
Could you also turn the vehicle on with the canister on and let the excess come out the lines by the selves, im sure vapor will but if its that much in there shouldnt it push it out also, i dont have a shop vac on hand
Your vehicle produces vacuum, so it might suck the beads in further
@dudewecanfixit oh damn, well good thing I didn't trust my intrusive thoughts. I'm working on the vent solenoid now, but I'll check the lines again and see if I can't disconnect them from the tank and see if anything comes out. I know the old canister was saturated though because i would shake it like crazy and you couldn't hear the charcoal moving until I dropped it on the ground lol
Can the Charcoal Canister fail without the symptom of fuel not entering the tank?. A P0449 code stays on even after Evap Solenoid replacement on a 2004 Silverado 2500 6.0 LQ4. Possibly the Purge Valve Solenoid on the engine?
Yes, it can fail multiple ways. The purge valve is easier to change
I also have a 2004 Chevrolet 2500 Silverado. I'm showing "Check Engine" light. Smog Check tech showed me Code P0446. Had EVAP Vent Selinoid Value changed twice. Running truck now to see if Check Engine light comes back on. The first time I had EVAP Vent Selinoid Value replaced I hD driven 57 miles before Check engine light displayed again. If Check engine light comes back on 3rd attempt will need to find a more competent mechanic and shop near me. Keeping my fingers crossed. P0446 error - related issues, bad gas cap, fuel pressure sensor, EVAP Vent Selinoid Value etc.
All ECM (Engine Control Module) electrical signal issues. I hate emission systems.
EXCELLENT video!
Thanks!
Great detailed video! Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very well explained, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for making this vedo it worked for me and save me some money.
Happy we could help!
amazing video fellas!
Thanks for this video, you’re the man!
You're welcome!
@@dudewecanfixit what are the symptoms
Usually you will get a check engine light and have issues filling the gas tank
what will happened if one of those hose is not in place
Depends on which hose it is, but they all need to be in place