Nice progress guys! Thanks for sharing, Dutch, regards Nico. ( btw I changed my injectors and I now have a completely different car. Much smoother in shifting and no vibrations in the car anymore).
Again your tenacity is astounding! I feel for you as you go through all the trouble shooting that comes when trying to fit it all and figure it all to the car. Dude having to fit the manifold Nine times?!! LOL. I wouldn't have videoed that part either lol. Although I have empathy for your pain and suffering I'm also really glad (as I've said before) that you go through all the growing pains and then the rest of us get to benefit from it all. It's hard not to get overwhelmed with trying to figure out "what, where, when, how, who and of course the biggest lament of them all WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY?!". LOL. I'm checking every day for a new video on this and I thank you.
It's the intake leaking. Not sealing by cylinder 1. I also had crazy afr readings like that due to the leak in the manifold. I even replaced all my o2 sensors and spent a ton of time trying to figure it out. In the end I needed a shorter m7 bolt since the stock one couldn't be cut short enough. I also had a leak at cylinder 6 since that thin gasket fell without me knowing. Used some gasket maker to hold it on there while I mounted the manifold again.
Very possible. I did catch the bolt length issue on the one of early attempts. By the time I fitted it with these gaskets I was rushing. I did the parts cleaner spray trick at idle, but doesn’t means it’s not leaking under boost.
@@ZeroTo60Tube does your car idle fine at cold start then immediately misfire and throw crazy high AFRs once it warms slightly? Or stop misfiring after you clear the codes for a couple seconds then back to misfire? Just make sure that m7 bolt is short enough or you have some washers since mine needed to be shorter than I thought. Once it sealed it cleared everything right up.
I also used a light to spot that the gasket fell off of 6 and luckily stayed right by the starter. Perhaps one of the gasket for 1-3 fell off when you were installing.
You know what's fun? It's your obvious enthusiasm! You're motorvating me! Not sure I'll dive quite this deep*, but, you know, you just don't hear too much about bottom ends (block, crank, rings, pistons) even stock being a problem. Hmmm. Yeah, maybe I need to listen more ;) *my beard is growing tho
Nice job guys!!!! Coming along good. I have the same braided fuel line on mine with spool ethanol sensor they have the kit to connect it and then keep running the line but I believe yours is already made like this.
The lean o2 sensor is probably because of the misfires not the cause of it Also don’t you need a check valve on the secondary pump to stop it flowing backwards off boost
Just a thought on the low pressure regulation. The DME targets 72.5PSI and will run in LPFP in a closed loop based on the low pressure sensor value. If your regulator is keeping the low pressure line at 70PSI the DME will be running the LPFP at 100% PWM all the time trying to keep up. Normally when cruising the LPFP runs at 40%~ but yours will be pegged at 100%.
Quick question guys. Any reason why I have to do the Hobbs for the 2nd LPFP versus just wiring it to run all the time like the primary LPFP? I can understand needing it to have dedicated power with a different fuse, but I don't want to depend on the Hobbs and don't see why it would be any more stress for it than the primary. Thanks
The main pump is PWM controlled. so it doesn't run flat out all the time. Its load based, basically. If you have a return reg setup, you could potentially run a pump full time, i have never seen it done and it may confuse the DME from the main pumps duty request would be all out of whack. So if you have a return reg the hardware would do it. I dont think it would work with a stock style fuel reg.
I also had troubles figuring out where to put the ethanol sensor since I didn't want to cut the -6an line I got from fuel it though i probably should have near the factory filter. I ended up putting it on the line towards the port injection rail after the y split. Turns out, my e content doesn't update unless I'm on it and port is activated. I'll be sitting there at idle showing e43 or something like that then I check my logs and see it was closer to e50 when under load.
andrew take the fuel line off of the wrecked car and put it on instead of the braided line it will be a mirror fit just strap it against the other line it will be nice and neat you can then put the flex sensor up the front end of the line ?
I could but I’d probably prefer to remake the main line in braid. We still have the return line and would need to connect the second stock line with a braided line at the lh side of the tank anyway.
Slightly off topic but if you were to replace the main fuel line with a larger diameter hose would that 'trick' the OE regulator into supplying more fuel? The volume of fuel would have to increase to hit the same pressure target due to the increased size? Or is it only a nominal increase?
I may be completely wrong in my thinking but shouldn’t you have a non-return valve on the lower pressure fuel line? won’t the more powerful pump cause backflow at the T-piece?
Yeah kind of, but not really an issue. As they are both frombthe same tank. The standard pump can hold 60psi (based on what I saw while it was at idle) with the engine running and will continue to do so. The secondary pump can obviously produce more pressure, but it's not like the primary pump just stops, it just provides more base fuel capacity (volume) while the engine is on boost where it used to struggle.
No they shouldn't really back flow. They valves in them for that. This basically how any car with twin or triple pumps would work. Just set out in a way to suit the n54. The main pump although sits at 60psi idle is capable of a lot more. However it is still running of the stock dme control. So it will only run hard when the dme thinks it needs to.
Random question, is the loud ticking of injectors now gone completely, when you switched to port injection? One more reason why port injection is better if that’s the case
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh okay. Are all the PI kits like that? So basically you have the 6 stock di injectors and also 6 pi injectors, working together? 12 injectors total
Maybe your low-pressure fuel pump is going out. I'm running a external fuel pressure regulator. I had it set around 75 PSI. A few months later I noticed my fuel pressure would get into the 60s and drop to the 50s under throttle. And would start misfiring... put in a new pump. And now my fuel pressure is at 75 at idle, and I have a rising-rate so it goes up to 80 under throttle
It may be anything I possible. It seems a lot of cars give different lpfp readings. Not sure if it’s the software on the ekmp, but from my experience on all of our N54s this looks normal.
I know many people in the past have successfully use the aic/hobbs switch. But knowing there are units like Motivs offerings “reflex” and pairing that with a EOS BPM4 would be the “safest route” if we can use the term safest with N54 lol
I would've thought having the flex fuel sensor as close to the rail as possible while picking up both lines would be the best set up, as that way your DME knows what fuel is entering the ports and about to be combusted. Having it on the return line means the system only changes after the mixed fuel has started going through the system, therefore is slower to update. At least every other build I've seen has had the sensor right before the fuel rail, presumably for that reason........ I could be completely wrong on that theory though.
You are on the money. The sensor needs to be see the most current fuel getting to the engine, putting it at the point the point the two lines join, would probably be best.
That’s how I ran my flex sensor pre HPFP approximately mid area of the transmission near where the original fuel line ran I believe there is either a 13mm or 10mm threaded bolt hole. But I have read it can be placed in the return without issue. I am also only running a single fuel line from the tank through the sensor it only Splits off where you would connect to the hpfp.
Dude I didn't have to clean ports as yours fitting secondary port injection which would have cleaned that carbon off in a few thousand Km (maybe even in 500mi.) but you were literally in it so....why not. I'm dreading it cause I used CRC spray and black liquid sprayed all over the drive way and black smoke. Prolly didn't even do much.
Its the best part, also because they look very good, I love my e92 so much, best looking bmw for me and also make it so fast that people just so surprised when you beat them
Nice progress guys! Thanks for sharing, Dutch, regards Nico. ( btw I changed my injectors and I now have a completely different car. Much smoother in shifting and no vibrations in the car anymore).
Again your tenacity is astounding! I feel for you as you go through all the trouble shooting that comes when trying to fit it all and figure it all to the car. Dude having to fit the manifold Nine times?!! LOL. I wouldn't have videoed that part either lol. Although I have empathy for your pain and suffering I'm also really glad (as I've said before) that you go through all the growing pains and then the rest of us get to benefit from it all. It's hard not to get overwhelmed with trying to figure out "what, where, when, how, who and of course the biggest lament of them all WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY?!". LOL. I'm checking every day for a new video on this and I thank you.
Thanks for he always positive comments.
Bad ass!! Proper fueling is everything, lean is mean but always will damage parts
It's the intake leaking. Not sealing by cylinder 1. I also had crazy afr readings like that due to the leak in the manifold. I even replaced all my o2 sensors and spent a ton of time trying to figure it out. In the end I needed a shorter m7 bolt since the stock one couldn't be cut short enough. I also had a leak at cylinder 6 since that thin gasket fell without me knowing. Used some gasket maker to hold it on there while I mounted the manifold again.
Very possible. I did catch the bolt length issue on the one of early attempts. By the time I fitted it with these gaskets I was rushing. I did the parts cleaner spray trick at idle, but doesn’t means it’s not leaking under boost.
@@ZeroTo60Tube does your car idle fine at cold start then immediately misfire and throw crazy high AFRs once it warms slightly? Or stop misfiring after you clear the codes for a couple seconds then back to misfire? Just make sure that m7 bolt is short enough or you have some washers since mine needed to be shorter than I thought. Once it sealed it cleared everything right up.
I also used a light to spot that the gasket fell off of 6 and luckily stayed right by the starter. Perhaps one of the gasket for 1-3 fell off when you were installing.
It behaves perfectly normal until load it up with boost.
You know what's fun? It's your obvious enthusiasm! You're motorvating me!
Not sure I'll dive quite this deep*, but, you know, you just don't hear too much about
bottom ends (block, crank, rings, pistons) even stock being a problem. Hmmm.
Yeah, maybe I need to listen more ;)
*my beard is growing tho
I have bank 1 STFT issues too and i haven't solved it. Tried new o2 sensors - no change.
Bank 2 has always been stable.
Watching with intrest !!! 👍
Nice job guys!!!! Coming along good. I have the same braided fuel line on mine with spool ethanol sensor they have the kit to connect it and then keep running the line but I believe yours is already made like this.
Thanks for the tips!
The lean o2 sensor is probably because of the misfires not the cause of it
Also don’t you need a check valve on the secondary pump to stop it flowing backwards off boost
I wonder if it's still an issue with the manifold sealing? Bit strange that it's just cylinder one if not?
Great content as always though
Love the videos and the content
Just a thought on the low pressure regulation. The DME targets 72.5PSI and will run in LPFP in a closed loop based on the low pressure sensor value. If your regulator is keeping the low pressure line at 70PSI the DME will be running the LPFP at 100% PWM all the time trying to keep up. Normally when cruising the LPFP runs at 40%~ but yours will be pegged at 100%.
This system has been on a N54 since 2016. No issues
Quick question guys. Any reason why I have to do the Hobbs for the 2nd LPFP versus just wiring it to run all the time like the primary LPFP? I can understand needing it to have dedicated power with a different fuse, but I don't want to depend on the Hobbs and don't see why it would be any more stress for it than the primary. Thanks
The main pump is PWM controlled. so it doesn't run flat out all the time. Its load based, basically. If you have a return reg setup, you could potentially run a pump full time, i have never seen it done and it may confuse the DME from the main pumps duty request would be all out of whack. So if you have a return reg the hardware would do it. I dont think it would work with a stock style fuel reg.
I also had troubles figuring out where to put the ethanol sensor since I didn't want to cut the -6an line I got from fuel it though i probably should have near the factory filter. I ended up putting it on the line towards the port injection rail after the y split. Turns out, my e content doesn't update unless I'm on it and port is activated. I'll be sitting there at idle showing e43 or something like that then I check my logs and see it was closer to e50 when under load.
I am kinda expecting I will have to remake the line. Ahhh well could be worse.
Where you order low profile gasket ? I need one set
andrew take the fuel line off of the wrecked car and put it on instead of the braided line it will be a mirror fit just strap it against the other line it will be nice and neat you can then put the flex sensor up the front end of the line ?
I could but I’d probably prefer to remake the main line in braid. We still have the return line and would need to connect the second stock line with a braided line at the lh side of the tank anyway.
Slightly off topic but if you were to replace the main fuel line with a larger diameter hose would that 'trick' the OE regulator into supplying more fuel? The volume of fuel would have to increase to hit the same pressure target due to the increased size? Or is it only a nominal increase?
Nah, the oe reg will be a limitation at that point. It’s still only fed by and made of small line.
Upgrades coming along nicely, but I'm left wondering.... Where's Laura? 😁
Are you stoned mate ? Lol thank you for the great content 🚀
😂😂😂😂😂😂
I kinda wish I was lol. Nah had something in my eye for most of the filming of this video. May or may not have been petrol.
@@ZeroTo60Tube all love m8 💯💯 😛🤣
I may be completely wrong in my thinking but shouldn’t you have a non-return valve on the lower pressure fuel line? won’t the more powerful pump cause backflow at the T-piece?
Yeah kind of, but not really an issue. As they are both frombthe same tank. The standard pump can hold 60psi (based on what I saw while it was at idle) with the engine running and will continue to do so. The secondary pump can obviously produce more pressure, but it's not like the primary pump just stops, it just provides more base fuel capacity (volume) while the engine is on boost where it used to struggle.
No they shouldn't really back flow. They valves in them for that. This basically how any car with twin or triple pumps would work. Just set out in a way to suit the n54.
The main pump although sits at 60psi idle is capable of a lot more. However it is still running of the stock dme control. So it will only run hard when the dme thinks it needs to.
Random question, is the loud ticking of injectors now gone completely, when you switched to port injection? One more reason why port injection is better if that’s the case
No, the di I still there
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh okay. Are all the PI kits like that? So basically you have the 6 stock di injectors and also 6 pi injectors, working together? 12 injectors total
Some people are running pi only, but you have to go full stand alone ecu
@@ZeroTo60Tube ah i see. Thank you for the clarification!
Maybe your low-pressure fuel pump is going out. I'm running a external fuel pressure regulator. I had it set around 75 PSI. A few months later I noticed my fuel pressure would get into the 60s and drop to the 50s under throttle. And would start misfiring... put in a new pump. And now my fuel pressure is at 75 at idle, and I have a rising-rate so it goes up to 80 under throttle
It may be anything I possible. It seems a lot of cars give different lpfp readings. Not sure if it’s the software on the ekmp, but from my experience on all of our N54s this looks normal.
I know many people in the past have successfully use the aic/hobbs switch. But knowing there are units like Motivs offerings “reflex” and pairing that with a EOS BPM4 would be the “safest route” if we can use the term safest with N54 lol
Completely agree, if money was no object they would both be on this car.
Great setup bro big no. Power 🔋
I would've thought having the flex fuel sensor as close to the rail as possible while picking up both lines would be the best set up, as that way your DME knows what fuel is entering the ports and about to be combusted. Having it on the return line means the system only changes after the mixed fuel has started going through the system, therefore is slower to update. At least every other build I've seen has had the sensor right before the fuel rail, presumably for that reason........ I could be completely wrong on that theory though.
You are on the money. The sensor needs to be see the most current fuel getting to the engine, putting it at the point the point the two lines join, would probably be best.
That’s how I ran my flex sensor pre HPFP approximately mid area of the transmission near where the original fuel line ran I believe there is either a 13mm or 10mm threaded bolt hole. But I have read it can be placed in the return without issue. I am also only running a single fuel line from the tank through the sensor it only Splits off where you would connect to the hpfp.
Shouldn't your low pressure fuel pressure be in the 70s at idle
Depends on what the car is doing. Cold start it’s likely too. But the main pump is still pwm controlled so the pump will work on demand.
Dude I didn't have to clean ports as yours fitting secondary port injection which would have cleaned that carbon off in a few thousand Km (maybe even in 500mi.) but you were literally in it so....why not. I'm dreading it cause I used CRC spray and black liquid sprayed all over the drive way and black smoke. Prolly didn't even do much.
Ohhhh it’s messy stuff.
elring great Gasket
Ethanol sensor goes in the return line, at least 1m downstream of your regulator…..
To much power for rear wheel drive. 500bhp will be perfect, more than that I will recommend xdrive 4wd
👍👍
Do you have an eye infection?
Man there was something going on with it. Was so irritating.
I don't understand why people mod these BMWs with so many miles lol
Because they are old and all have this many miles lol. The ones that don’t are too nice and expensive to mess with.
Its the best part, also because they look very good, I love my e92 so much, best looking bmw for me and also make it so fast that people just so surprised when you beat them
I totally agree this is my third e90x platform but I prefer to get them with lower mileage if I can