I run 30 minute track sessions in 80°f weather and have gotten close to 295. Rerouted my windshield sprayer line to a nozzle spraying the oil cooler and haven’t seen over 280 on the track since.
I’m seeing 125c 260f Engine Oil and 130c 270f Trans after 5-10mins on track in 25c 80f weather my coolant is fine and sits at 90-100c 195-215f Before I went upgrading the factory engine and trans coolers I was thinking of ducting air directly onto the stock coolers to see if this helps But your idea is good, I’ve got a secondary water set up to spray my IC I might reroute these lines to my factory oil and trans coolers
Before you spend a ton for an oil cooler you need the BMS low temp oil cooler valve, if you have 2007 335 with no oil cooler it is worth it. My line just failed I was lucky I was on a super short trip and noticed. These engines are all over 10 years old and it's amazing how well they do.
Exactly, my 08 is doing just fine. Only real issues I've had have really just been due to my own errors or aftermarket parts. By the time we are all done with our cars they should be pretty reliable as we have basically addressed all the failure points.
Those stink it’s better to get a true thermostat or in-line tstat, that valve take forever to open up for you. It’s better to have a system that heats up quick but also doesn’t surpass 225...
When I ran standard turbos maxed out I noticed really high oil temps then bought the oil bypass stat n temps dropped immediately, with the rbs on it takes ages for my car to warm the oil up only gets hot when nailing it but cruising goes down to around 80-90’c but weather is always terrible in the uk, we get a few hot days but not much lol
I recently had one of my oil cooler lines split completely in half, heard a small pop and the car was out of oil within 20-30 seconds, luckily turned it off as soon as I noticed and saved motor
Have been waiting for this video! I wish i had used two straight fittings at the oil cooler housing. My car definitely runs cooler now, but i still manage to exceed 120°C drifting in the snow in -10°C weather
I'd try to minimize the length of those oil cooler lines if you want to maintain high oil pressure. Longer lines will lead to more drops in oil pressure. With a gauge fitted, stock cooler and 5w40 oil, I see 75+ psi cold and 25-30 psi on a warm engine at 70 deg F.
@@jhncvngh For anyone else realizing this, vehicular DIY has a guide on adding an actual gauge to an oil cooler kit th-cam.com/video/LDCsvdg1MXM/w-d-xo.html Not very expensive and definitely worth it if you're tuning/modding. Lower oil pressure is obviously very bad and you should monitor it regardless.
My oil temp got up to 130°C when I drove through the canyons a little bit faster. Temp outside were 25°C. Also on the German Autobahn it got that hot. Now I use a second oil cooler connected in series with the oem one. It is nearly as big as yours + I’ve installed a low temp valve, because that’s the limiting Part when your temp is still rising. But I still managed to get oil up to 120°C on the Nürburgring Nordschleife.😅 So you only get this problem when you use the power constantly.
I have heard of low-temp valves for larger oil-coolers that restict flow until proper temperature is reached. (Are they called 'pancake valves'? Is that due to the shape?) The centerline of my oil-temp gauge is @ 210°, so I assume that is °F, or 99°C. It reached 240°+ yesterday, and it's not even hot outside yet (~80°F or 27°C). I had to do a lot of slow driving in traffic, and this seemed too hot - more than I've ever seen. That has me considering upgrading the oil cooler and using new lines.
I bought my first 2008 335i in 2014. At that time tuning them wasn't like it is now. I went to a tuning shop to see about getting a Cobb tuner. The guys at that shop however convinced me to have them tune my car on their dyno. My car was completely stock at that point and they said they had to check my car to see if it had an oil cooler because if it didn't they could not in all good conscience tune it. They checked and it did. So ahead went the tuning. I live in Calgary Canada which is not a warm place compared to Aussie Land or most of the USA etc. But for some reason they thought it was so very important that they would have passed up a $1100 sale (I got some coding done as well) if I didn't have the oil cooler installed from the factory. I thought it strange. The tune was great and made 389hp and 412tq but I regretted not getting the Cobb because I couldn't easily do bolt on's to upgrade then just tune through email etc and I couldn't transfer the tune to another car like the Cobb would have. Grrrr!
Hey bro just flip one of the hoses and you’ll have an easier time if the fittings are reversed. One hose is (1.4m, 90deg fittings on both ends) is for the top of the oil cooler to the left connection of the thermo. And the longer hose (1.6m, 90deg fitting + straight fitting on the other end) goes the longer distance from the bottom of the oil cooler to the far end of the thermo (closer to the drivers side). With 90deg fitting shooting it straight up through the same opening as the first hose, over the crash bar, and ending with the straight fitting on the thermo. As you’ve said using both 90 degree fittings on the thermo would make them hit each other and crowd the space; I would space them out by bringing the right connection down some with the straight fitting them send both hoses over on top of each other with the hose management connector. Thank you for the video.
Happy New Year to you all. Andrew, when I installed this oil cooler kit, I had the same issues that you have faced. I tried a number of arrangements with the hoses without success. Initially, I thought the hoses would be located the same as the OEM hoses but quickly realised the hoses were way to long to do that. I then tried bringing the hoses out through the holes on the bracket where the fittings are located on the filter only to find that the inner guard would not fit with any hose on the outside of the bracket. This left only one way for the installation and that was to fit the longer hose with the 90 degree bend to the top fitting on the filter with the hose running straight down towards the bottom fitting, installing the hose with the straight fitting to the lower fitting on the filter and routing both hoses straight out under the intercooler inlet than up to the thermostat. After starting the engine, I did have a small oil leak from the passengers side hose to thermostat fitting which required some extra tightening to rectify. I have had no issues with the oil cooler since then and it has dropped the engine temperature by 10-15 degrees which has been great. I had issues with the engine oil temp raising too high during roll racing but now this is no longer an issue.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I have a BMW Club Qld event in the morning which should be over by mid afternoon so weather permitting, I should be able to come out and watch. I have my rebuilt engine ready to be installed but I am waiting on new turbos to arrive before installation. I don't plan on racing again until I get the rebuilt engine installed, run in and tuned.
Does this run like stock other than when you are banging gears? No issues with the temps in winter? Not sure how cold your winters get, it's typical to see 0°C here and lower sometimes.
@@ichoozjc The oil temperature ranges from 90-110C during winter and summer. Our winters get into the single digits for a short period and our summers can get into the mid 30's. During a mid 30C day in traffic with the OEM oil cooler, my car would almost reach 120C but now with this oil cooler it only reaches 110C. In winter, it can get down to 90C.
The upgrade is always worth it. Low temp shouldn’t be a worry because it’s an oil thermostat. Even better you need to upgrade the thermostat for fitment and usefulness.
Hehe the comment about having another daily car if you drive an N54 is so true, I'll be keeping my N55 335i as the daily anyway and some spares from the N54 fit which is handy, in my case the HPFP, Water Pump, some other bits and pieces, I had thoughts of selling it and get a really boring reliable toyota as a daily, however I just can't bring myself to do it.
So I just put an upgraded oil cooler a few days ago, I was able to run a fan pushing through up front but had to remove the fog light to make it fit, but it doesn’t look too bad imo as you can see the fan sitting right behind the opening. I also had to use different and fittings with the proved hoses as I couldn’t route them in any way that I felt comfortable with them not kinking or cheffing around an edge. My oil temp never got that hot with the stock cooler as I’ve seen but it does climb high if I beat on it. With the upgraded cooler it seems to still come up to around 104-105 but hovers around 100 when just cruising. I found out apparently n54’s stock came with either a 105 or a 110 degree thermostat which would explain why some cars just run hotter than others. I think next I’m going to get one of the low temp drop in thermostats which make it run way too cold and then just install a 100 degree inline thermostat
I spent all New Year’s Eve an day watching all your videos lol love the channel. Makes me want to always work on my car. Owned my e90 335 for 10 years now…still in love with it
Honestly? Im not surprised at all you are not catching the oil temps going too far up. You have bigger turbos, therefore less stress on them to make boost and are in a better section of the efficiency curve. Between that a bigger intercooler and all, there's not much of a reason just roll racing were you would over heat the car. If you are boosting 16+ psi on stockers and actually racing is when you start gettting issues with the heat levels since they are so small and working so hard making them small furnaces with no breathing/cooling moments. There's a few massive posts on spoolstreet from a china guy who analized all of this and coolers and how to do it. Yeah it was first and second year of states production where they came with no oil cooler, afterwards bmw added it to every single one of them and even gave the the ppk2 aux rad stock for the 335is model (keep in mind that the n54 even with the stock oil cooler has about half the cooling surface area than a s55 stock...) That cooler... I bought the same one (with other lines) and had to be modified quite a bit to actually make it fit properly, then the AN lines at the fitting started leaking, so I ended up having to cut the oil cooler frame like you did, bought some actual branded an lines for the actual size and angles that I needed since it also came with like an extra foot of length and that fixed it. Anyhow, happy new year! should be new year already over there
The only time i have ever gone over 120c that stuck in my mind when the Euroday december 2020, same sort of track use that we blew up ohhrly doing. The 17t car was on track for about 20 mins in 35-40c heat. But for everything else the engine is always under 120c. I do run thicker oil than most, not sure if that helps.
Hey, Happy New Year to you and the team. Succeed or ‘fail’, your videos are always informative and your descriptions of the issues are thorough and helpful to us less informed folks. Thank you as always for posting and just being genuine. Life isn’t all-wins all the time and your honesty about this is refreshing.
I got a 2007 e92 no oil cooler do I just need to buy a aftermarket oil cooler and a factory oil filter housing from a model that has a oil cooler? Saw a video of a guy using a inline thermostat from earls
Happy New Year's guys! Great PSA to us N54 owners. An oil fire would probably be the thing I fear the most with a turbo car. Might even buy some new oil feed and drain lines for the turbos next time I'm in there.
I run upgraded 20 row cooler and upgraded stat, previously 2nd lap on a trackday and it was hitting limp mode for 130 degrees . Thats 2 laps every time. Bigger cooler in stock location I see mid 120s now, drag or street driving normally stays below 100 degrees c.
It definitely makes sense if you are one of those crazy few that do circuit track days. Good to see your results anyway. Which thermostat did you go with?
@@mulletor123 I have a derale external tstat I’m hooking up to an adapter plate. Idk which side oil should leave the ofh/plate and which side it should return to
Easier to install. absolutely. Not sure on price. I ran out of time, but I do have a theory with these engine oil coolers helping keep trans temps down.
On my 08 535i I've blown my oil cooler 4 times this year. Makes no sense I don't understand how it keeps failing I just replaced it with a used one a few weeks ago and it was replaced a month prior to that as well
Mine magically formed a pinhole in it when I was nice and far from home. Let's just say there is lot's of pressure in those hoses! Much mess was made in my engine bay!
I plan on adding a second oil cooler in line with the stock oil cooler on my manual 135i N54. It`s becoming a drift car so I need this mod definitely ;-))) Do you have a tip to bleed it properly? The thermostat will not open until the engine is warm enough. And when it opens the oil from the engine will fill the second oil cooler (it`s a pretty big 30 row one) and I will "loose" a lot from the sump to make that happen. Bit scared that the oil pump might not be able to do its job with 1-1.5 liters of oil suddenly vanishing out of the sump. Perhaps a good idea to fill the oil cooler before connecting the lines to the adapter on the thermostat housing? Or how did you do it?
That should do it. Maybe to it a few times an start adding oil. I’ve once had the lines not connected and turn the engine by hand and the oil started to flow out the right hole.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Ok...strange...I mean, the oil will not go through the thermostat as it is closed on a cold engine...so the new cooler should not be able to be filled up this way...and I don`t think that you could change your cooler so quickly that the thermostat was still open ;-) But it obviously worked for you, your engine is running fine...perhaps the amount of oil that gets drained from the sump filling up the lines and the cooler is not that much after all. Anyway, good news and thanks for your reply :-)))
@@bigbytritac1722 ok...thanks for this information, so I will definitely crank the "sleeping engine" two or three times and then go back and check the oil level before starting it up. All that after filling up the new cooler. One more question - good idea to use some sanitary teflon sealing tape to make sure the connections are really tight?
So weird that n54s up here in Canada often don’t come with coolers, somewhat annoying. In my 2 track days over the summer I ran into heat issues so I’m planning on getting an oil cooler myself. What size is the cooler here, is it 25 or 30 row? Love the content and always keen to watch new episodes!
Be careful those oil lines get extremely hot. I have know clue how but the OEM Lines wore a hole in my AC aluminum hard line. I had to JB weld it until I could replace the line. Those braided lines in theory should keep temps a little lower 🤷🏻♂️ just a heads up!
Another great video, thank you guys! Question, could you not get 2 of the AN adapters and run one at the OFH and the other at the stock oil cooler? That way you could replace the OEM lines with new braided AN style and still run the stock cooler. Just a thought, dont know if it is possible
@@ZeroTo60Tube Both ends of the cooler hose use the same O rings, so believe it is possible. You can get for under $100 the AN fittings, adapters (2) and hose from Amazon in the states. Like you said, probably not a bad idea to change out those lines after a decade. And you dont have to deal with fitting another cooler in the stock location.
Que resultados da este radiador ? Merece la pena cambiarlo por el oem ? Tengo un 1M con el termostato cambiado y en pista el coche me llega a 130 grados el aceite, y quería bajar la temperatura y estoy buscado un buen radiador este me parece una buena opción pero quiero saber que tal vuestras opiniones
Abit late to the party. I'm sure it's been mentioned already but I and other friends I know do run into oil temp issues with stock coolers with hard use or light track. But we are using pump fuel no E85 here in the UK and ethonal helps massively with cylinder temperature = lower oil temp 🙂
Just a quick question.Rob beck said that standard outlets are good for 500wheel hp.Those are the left hand drive version without the dreaded squish.By high flowing the righthand drive,these basically flow like standard lefthand drive ones.With your build going to 700-800 hp,would the high flowed righthand drive cause restriction at those power levels?👍
I have heard that a few times. And although they will definitely be a limitation im hoping we can still squeez another 75hp out of the flow max's over the china 17t setup. These outlets flow better than the ones on the 17t car, but we will see how it all ends up, or if it ends up needing a custom setup to make close to that 700whp.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I have the VTT ones,but have seen a type of copy of these on ali express that have the o-ring,V-band conection,greater flow,but need a slight mod to fit righthand drive .They explain how to do this on there site.The key would be to Potentally customise /weld something like that to fit. TheyLooked like good quality, quite cheap.👍
I guess you could just replace the OEM lines with a new set but then you would not benefit from the slightly lower temps at the performance levels you are running at, plus im guessing the cost of new OEM lines is probably more than an aftermarket upgrade? P.S Happy new year to you and your family
I read that BMW engineers designed the N54 to run at higher oil temperatures purposely, they deigned it to be 230-245 Fahrenheit normal operating temperature (110-120 Celsius) for best lubrication efficiency, would it be safe running the car with cooler oil than it was designed for?
You might be right. After all everything is calculated. But those tests take place on road tests where the average speed is not above 80 mph and they don’t get past 3k rpm. When you start driving in the fashion it’s meant to and are revving the engine out over a 30 minute period the oil temp goes past operating temp. I have read in adding a bigger cooler they suggest to add half a quart of oil and bump it up to 7.5 sometimes 8 with twin setup. This might be to maintain the required flow rate.
There not a lot of room. I dont have issues with engine oil temps whne stationary, but would like a similar solution for the trans cooler on the other side.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I don’t even have problems with my stock cooler as is but the age of the cooler lines got me thinking. My whole car seems to run pretty cool both coolant and oil idk if I have a problem with my thermostat but it tends to stay below 200f (93c) with the coolant and will only creep past 210f after really beating on it. I was thinking if I upgraded the cooler even tho there is a thermostat the larger cooler might take longer for the oil to come up to temp, by adding a shrouded fan. It should help actually block airflow when the fan isn’t running which should help the oil come up to temp faster but then when it kicks on keep it from getting too hot. If you google “7" Pull Push Electric Engine Slim Oil Cooler Fan” the first image that came up for me at least is the type of fan I was looking at, it has a built on shroud that should cover the whole cooler..
I have the same oil cooler on my E90, i didn’t have issues with the lines but more with the wheel liners fitting and rubbing so had to modify a lot of the stock vented plate to make it fit and not rub. Might have been lucky with the batch of oil coolers?🤷🏻♂️
120c 248f seems high to me whats normal? my audi 3.0 turbo hot V runs 200f normal driving 230s spirited driving. i would think it would be ideal to keep the temps to 200-220🤷♂️ am i wrong. im just a plumber so what do i know😂
Can confirm that some American N54s have no oil cooler. Mine is a 2010 with the sport package and I've been scratching my head about why it doesn't have one. Highest temps around here are usually about 90F/32C and my oil temps on a hot day on the street is 240F/116C
If you are stock or OTS stick to what the manufacturer of oil recommends. Castrol is 5w30 and penrite is 5w40 for example. If you are running a custom tune, see what your tuner thinks.
Man its been a terrible 18 months tbh. I've really had to prioritise making a living, which unfortantely youtube never got close to doing. You might not know about whats still going down either.....www.spoolstreet.com/threads/zero-to-60-youtube-channel-got-raided-by-the-australian-police.8531/
I didn’t but both fittings are identical. They are just grabbing fittings from a stock pile it feels like and they are not correct. Very small changes in the design of the fitting which aren’t noticeable in some applications cause issues in others.
Hi I have a n54 2011 f02 will this kit work on that vehicle or can i just use the hoses and connect them to the original oil cooler? if so would you send me the link to purchase one please.
One of our cars has custom alloy ducting, to direct air from the bumper and force it through the cooler. However never ended up doing it on this car. The temp drop was brilliant even with out ducting. However if circuit racing where temps are high, it might be worth looking in to.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yes I agree and also just for the sake of keeping it uniform. I wonder if a dual oil cooler set up using two of these same kits w/ longer an line would be even more cooling.
Finally got the car out and did some miles on it. There is no doubt it works and works well to reduce engine oil temps. However as for a "kit", the only kit thing is the bracket, the lines may as well be universal lines.
Mate have you got stock for the oil cooler again? Moreover the modified Y pipe for N54 you are selling, is it a whole or i have to send mine to get it modified?
I have 2 coolers here, but i have used 45deg the fittings from the kits. I will have them again soon tho. I ended up fitting the e90 again before track, just to make the lines look a little nice and then used a new fitting..... The outlets are sold as a complete item to bolt on to your car. However if you return your original ones that we can use to make more high flowed one, we can refund you $100.
@@ZeroTo60Tube what if you send me the high flow y pipe and once it's replaced with the one I got, then I can return the OEM one to you. Can that work?
China, i'll have to dig up the exact supplier, but its a bit of joke. No matter what i confirm before ordering they bloody dont send what they say they are sending.
Hey bro, happy new year...well in a cpl of hours at least! Just a cpl of questions if I may? No rush...enjoy those drinks whilst cold ;) Got a '09 135i m sport down here in Mexico. The whole story is sad, so I won't waffle on. Car+fence+gravestone+letting insurance slip for 12 days = 3am tow job, both airbag deployed, cracked front window, front number awol Yada Yada. Tow repair bloke said write off, obviously. No car guy here so they ended up towing it to mine. Rang a BMW specialist wrecker. Totally understand they gotta make a buck, but he offered like 1100 for the lot. It's got the legit yellow bmw premium brake upgrade all round. I understand that may be a bit of a wank in regards to actual cost performance value. But it was a tad confusing with various opinions on them. I know they didn't come cheap though. It's got the 135i legit BMW performance zorst upgrade. The computer upgrade from that USA joint who's name escapes me atm. Rear carbon splitter and carbon boot lip. And then all the factory upgrades of sound, the gps thing, adaptive lights bla bla. I told the wrecker I rang for a quote not to be insulted. Anyway, soz mate for the waffle on. Do you have any idea what a reasonable price would be for the engine? 150k KMs. I'm getting the hurry up to do something with it. Atm I plan on keeping the breaks, wheels,zorst, carbon bits and front lights. Sold the rear LCM, or whatever they are, already. I could probably remove the interior as well for private sale. The rest I don't have the patience nor finely tuned knuckles to bother with. What's a fair and reasonable price to list the engine up on a few sites to best increase its chances of being moved. $2-3k, buyer collects and removes? Sorry again to bug you mate. Just I see them listed at up to $8k and I get confused and then throw in the towel. I don't want to completely rip myself off, but I don't have the benefit of endless time with what seems to be quite ludicrous asking prices for what seem similar km engines. Thanks bro, any advice would help me to remove my ostrich head from the sand and deal with it before I find it all gone and a $500 check form a local wrecker on the kitchen table. Cheers mate
We have bought a few damaged cars for $2000AUD. Bought running non damaged cars with mechanic issues for $2500AUD. They are worthless when they have a few issues so the place is probably being fair if they are trying to make money. The way to get the most money for yours is to strip it yourself and sell the parts separately. But it takes a lot of hours, a lot of space and a lot of dealing with idiot low ballers. It's not a fun process stripping a car to try and make money.
@@ZeroTo60Tube cheers mate, with that knowledgeable advice on board, I think it'll be a case of ripping the brakes off and the rest can be thrown on a truck! No room, nor inclination to fk arse about. Greatly appreciate you taking the time out of your day to help me out. Thanks mate 👍
Another task to add to the preventative maintenance list. The wife is not going to be impressed haha. Edit: Eta on when the coolers will be instock on your site?
Not specifically, suppliers and frieght are just a mess at the moment. I do have 2 spare if someone needs one urgently. Shoot me an email if you wanna order it and we can go from there.
I run 30 minute track sessions in 80°f weather and have gotten close to 295. Rerouted my windshield sprayer line to a nozzle spraying the oil cooler and haven’t seen over 280 on the track since.
I’m seeing 125c 260f Engine Oil and 130c 270f Trans after 5-10mins on track in 25c 80f weather my coolant is fine and sits at 90-100c 195-215f
Before I went upgrading the factory engine and trans coolers
I was thinking of ducting air directly onto the stock coolers to see if this helps
But your idea is good, I’ve got a secondary water set up to spray my IC I might reroute these lines to my factory oil and trans coolers
Makes sure you add some extra oil, at least half a quart, I think it is needed to maintain the flow rate for the bigger core
I wonder if the electronic dipstick is still accurate with a larger OC core, and possibly more volume due to larger diameter lines+/or fittings?
Before you spend a ton for an oil cooler you need the BMS low temp oil cooler valve, if you have 2007 335 with no oil cooler it is worth it. My line just failed I was lucky I was on a super short trip and noticed. These engines are all over 10 years old and it's amazing how well they do.
Exactly, my 08 is doing just fine. Only real issues I've had have really just been due to my own errors or aftermarket parts. By the time we are all done with our cars they should be pretty reliable as we have basically addressed all the failure points.
Those stink it’s better to get a true thermostat or in-line tstat, that valve take forever to open up for you. It’s better to have a system that heats up quick but also doesn’t surpass 225...
When I ran standard turbos maxed out I noticed really high oil temps then bought the oil bypass stat n temps dropped immediately, with the rbs on it takes ages for my car to warm the oil up only gets hot when nailing it but cruising goes down to around 80-90’c but weather is always terrible in the uk, we get a few hot days but not much lol
I recently had one of my oil cooler lines split completely in half, heard a small pop and the car was out of oil within 20-30 seconds, luckily turned it off as soon as I noticed and saved motor
Have been waiting for this video! I wish i had used two straight fittings at the oil cooler housing. My car definitely runs cooler now, but i still manage to exceed 120°C drifting in the snow in -10°C weather
I'd try to minimize the length of those oil cooler lines if you want to maintain high oil pressure. Longer lines will lead to more drops in oil pressure. With a gauge fitted, stock cooler and 5w40 oil, I see 75+ psi cold and 25-30 psi on a warm engine at 70 deg F.
Any more info on fitting an oil pressure gauge?
@@jhncvngh For anyone else realizing this, vehicular DIY has a guide on adding an actual gauge to an oil cooler kit th-cam.com/video/LDCsvdg1MXM/w-d-xo.html Not very expensive and definitely worth it if you're tuning/modding. Lower oil pressure is obviously very bad and you should monitor it regardless.
My oil temp got up to 130°C when I drove through the canyons a little bit faster. Temp outside were 25°C. Also on the German Autobahn it got that hot. Now I use a second oil cooler connected in series with the oem one. It is nearly as big as yours + I’ve installed a low temp valve, because that’s the limiting Part when your temp is still rising. But I still managed to get oil up to 120°C on the Nürburgring Nordschleife.😅
So you only get this problem when you use the power constantly.
Doing some proper driving by the sounds of things.
Do you mean a lower temp thermostat?
@@camver100 yes
I have heard of low-temp valves for larger oil-coolers that restict flow until proper temperature is reached. (Are they called 'pancake valves'? Is that due to the shape?) The centerline of my oil-temp gauge is @ 210°, so I assume that is °F, or 99°C. It reached 240°+ yesterday, and it's not even hot outside yet (~80°F or 27°C). I had to do a lot of slow driving in traffic, and this seemed too hot - more than I've ever seen. That has me considering upgrading the oil cooler and using new lines.
I bought my first 2008 335i in 2014. At that time tuning them wasn't like it is now. I went to a tuning shop to see about getting a Cobb tuner. The guys at that shop however convinced me to have them tune my car on their dyno. My car was completely stock at that point and they said they had to check my car to see if it had an oil cooler because if it didn't they could not in all good conscience tune it. They checked and it did. So ahead went the tuning. I live in Calgary Canada which is not a warm place compared to Aussie Land or most of the USA etc. But for some reason they thought it was so very important that they would have passed up a $1100 sale (I got some coding done as well) if I didn't have the oil cooler installed from the factory. I thought it strange. The tune was great and made 389hp and 412tq but I regretted not getting the Cobb because I couldn't easily do bolt on's to upgrade then just tune through email etc and I couldn't transfer the tune to another car like the Cobb would have. Grrrr!
Ohh wow, i didnt realise you have owned one for so long!!! I wish i got on the platform back then!
Hey bro just flip one of the hoses and you’ll have an easier time if the fittings are reversed.
One hose is (1.4m, 90deg fittings on both ends) is for the top of the oil cooler to the left connection of the thermo. And the longer hose (1.6m, 90deg fitting + straight fitting on the other end) goes the longer distance from the bottom of the oil cooler to the far end of the thermo (closer to the drivers side). With 90deg fitting shooting it straight up through the same opening as the first hose, over the crash bar, and ending with the straight fitting on the thermo. As you’ve said using both 90 degree fittings on the thermo would make them hit each other and crowd the space; I would space them out by bringing the right connection down some with the straight fitting them send both hoses over on top of each other with the hose management connector. Thank you for the video.
Reversed spring in cooler and bypassed thermostat. Engine oil stays at like 190 200f normal driving when cold outside
Of all the fun little upgrades I’ve done to my car….the oil cooler has kicked my ass lol
Happy New Year to you all. Andrew, when I installed this oil cooler kit, I had the same issues that you have faced. I tried a number of arrangements with the hoses without success. Initially, I thought the hoses would be located the same as the OEM hoses but quickly realised the hoses were way to long to do that. I then tried bringing the hoses out through the holes on the bracket where the fittings are located on the filter only to find that the inner guard would not fit with any hose on the outside of the bracket. This left only one way for the installation and that was to fit the longer hose with the 90 degree bend to the top fitting on the filter with the hose running straight down towards the bottom fitting, installing the hose with the straight fitting to the lower fitting on the filter and routing both hoses straight out under the intercooler inlet than up to the thermostat. After starting the engine, I did have a small oil leak from the passengers side hose to thermostat fitting which required some extra tightening to rectify. I have had no issues with the oil cooler since then and it has dropped the engine temperature by 10-15 degrees which has been great. I had issues with the engine oil temp raising too high during roll racing but now this is no longer an issue.
Thanks again for the info ken. Are you planning to be at rolls in a few weeks?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I have a BMW Club Qld event in the morning which should be over by mid afternoon so weather permitting, I should be able to come out and watch. I have my rebuilt engine ready to be installed but I am waiting on new turbos to arrive before installation. I don't plan on racing again until I get the rebuilt engine installed, run in and tuned.
Does this run like stock other than when you are banging gears? No issues with the temps in winter? Not sure how cold your winters get, it's typical to see 0°C here and lower sometimes.
@@ichoozjc The oil temperature ranges from 90-110C during winter and summer. Our winters get into the single digits for a short period and our summers can get into the mid 30's. During a mid 30C day in traffic with the OEM oil cooler, my car would almost reach 120C but now with this oil cooler it only reaches 110C. In winter, it can get down to 90C.
No issues with being too cold. However our winters rarely get down to single digit temps and are in the 20s mid day.
The upgrade is always worth it. Low temp shouldn’t be a worry because it’s an oil thermostat. Even better you need to upgrade the thermostat for fitment and usefulness.
Hehe the comment about having another daily car if you drive an N54 is so true, I'll be keeping my N55 335i as the daily anyway and some spares from the N54 fit which is handy, in my case the HPFP, Water Pump, some other bits and pieces, I had thoughts of selling it and get a really boring reliable toyota as a daily, however I just can't bring myself to do it.
I would deffs run quality lines and fittings like speed flow/ Raceworks ect
So I just put an upgraded oil cooler a few days ago, I was able to run a fan pushing through up front but had to remove the fog light to make it fit, but it doesn’t look too bad imo as you can see the fan sitting right behind the opening. I also had to use different and fittings with the proved hoses as I couldn’t route them in any way that I felt comfortable with them not kinking or cheffing around an edge. My oil temp never got that hot with the stock cooler as I’ve seen but it does climb high if I beat on it. With the upgraded cooler it seems to still come up to around 104-105 but hovers around 100 when just cruising. I found out apparently n54’s stock came with either a 105 or a 110 degree thermostat which would explain why some cars just run hotter than others. I think next I’m going to get one of the low temp drop in thermostats which make it run way too cold and then just install a 100 degree inline thermostat
Run a Vargus turbo oil block off plate bolts right to filter housing saves so much extra room and looks cleaner
I spent all New Year’s Eve an day watching all your videos lol love the channel. Makes me want to always work on my car. Owned my e90 335 for 10 years now…still in love with it
Awesome! Thank you!
Honestly? Im not surprised at all you are not catching the oil temps going too far up. You have bigger turbos, therefore less stress on them to make boost and are in a better section of the efficiency curve. Between that a bigger intercooler and all, there's not much of a reason just roll racing were you would over heat the car. If you are boosting 16+ psi on stockers and actually racing is when you start gettting issues with the heat levels since they are so small and working so hard making them small furnaces with no breathing/cooling moments. There's a few massive posts on spoolstreet from a china guy who analized all of this and coolers and how to do it.
Yeah it was first and second year of states production where they came with no oil cooler, afterwards bmw added it to every single one of them and even gave the the ppk2 aux rad stock for the 335is model (keep in mind that the n54 even with the stock oil cooler has about half the cooling surface area than a s55 stock...)
That cooler... I bought the same one (with other lines) and had to be modified quite a bit to actually make it fit properly, then the AN lines at the fitting started leaking, so I ended up having to cut the oil cooler frame like you did, bought some actual branded an lines for the actual size and angles that I needed since it also came with like an extra foot of length and that fixed it.
Anyhow, happy new year! should be new year already over there
The only time i have ever gone over 120c that stuck in my mind when the Euroday december 2020, same sort of track use that we blew up ohhrly doing. The 17t car was on track for about 20 mins in 35-40c heat. But for everything else the engine is always under 120c. I do run thicker oil than most, not sure if that helps.
Control pressure with engine at operating temperature: 4-6bar, minimum 1.5bar
Hey, Happy New Year to you and the team. Succeed or ‘fail’, your videos are always informative and your descriptions of the issues are thorough and helpful to us less informed folks. Thank you as always for posting and just being genuine. Life isn’t all-wins all the time and your honesty about this is refreshing.
Thanks for that! Hope you have a great 2022 man!
I got a 2007 e92 no oil cooler do I just need to buy a aftermarket oil cooler and a factory oil filter housing from a model that has a oil cooler? Saw a video of a guy using a inline thermostat from earls
Happy New Year's guys! Great PSA to us N54 owners. An oil fire would probably be the thing I fear the most with a turbo car. Might even buy some new oil feed and drain lines for the turbos next time I'm in there.
I run upgraded 20 row cooler and upgraded stat, previously 2nd lap on a trackday and it was hitting limp mode for 130 degrees . Thats 2 laps every time.
Bigger cooler in stock location I see mid 120s now, drag or street driving normally stays below 100 degrees c.
It definitely makes sense if you are one of those crazy few that do circuit track days. Good to see your results anyway. Which thermostat did you go with?
@@ZeroTo60Tube i used ,hel adaptor plate ,with mishimoto stat and custom hoses.
@@mulletor123 does it matter which side (left or right) oil leaves the plate and returns ?
@@n54dame yes the design has a taper inside for when stat is shut ,just to help guide the flow through the stat housing.
@@mulletor123 I have a derale external tstat I’m hooking up to an adapter plate. Idk which side oil should leave the ofh/plate and which side it should return to
Would it not have just been better / easier to get new oem hoses from bmw?
Easier to install. absolutely. Not sure on price. I ran out of time, but I do have a theory with these engine oil coolers helping keep trans temps down.
On my 08 535i I've blown my oil cooler 4 times this year. Makes no sense I don't understand how it keeps failing I just replaced it with a used one a few weeks ago and it was replaced a month prior to that as well
Mine magically formed a pinhole in it when I was nice and far from home. Let's just say there is lot's of pressure in those hoses! Much mess was made in my engine bay!
man that sucks.
I plan on adding a second oil cooler in line with the stock oil cooler on my manual 135i N54. It`s becoming a drift car so I need this mod definitely ;-))) Do you have a tip to bleed it properly? The thermostat will not open until the engine is warm enough. And when it opens the oil from the engine will fill the second oil cooler (it`s a pretty big 30 row one) and I will "loose" a lot from the sump to make that happen. Bit scared that the oil pump might not be able to do its job with 1-1.5 liters of oil suddenly vanishing out of the sump. Perhaps a good idea to fill the oil cooler before connecting the lines to the adapter on the thermostat housing? Or how did you do it?
To be honest, I just disconnected the injectors and cranked it for about 10 seconds twice.
That should do it.
Maybe to it a few times an start adding oil.
I’ve once had the lines not connected and turn the engine by hand and the oil started to flow out the right hole.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Ok...strange...I mean, the oil will not go through the thermostat as it is closed on a cold engine...so the new cooler should not be able to be filled up this way...and I don`t think that you could change your cooler so quickly that the thermostat was still open ;-) But it obviously worked for you, your engine is running fine...perhaps the amount of oil that gets drained from the sump filling up the lines and the cooler is not that much after all. Anyway, good news and thanks for your reply :-)))
@@bigbytritac1722 ok...thanks for this information, so I will definitely crank the "sleeping engine" two or three times and then go back and check the oil level before starting it up. All that after filling up the new cooler. One more question - good idea to use some sanitary teflon sealing tape to make sure the connections are really tight?
@@brennerfineart i didn’t use any sealent tape.
So weird that n54s up here in Canada often don’t come with coolers, somewhat annoying. In my 2 track days over the summer I ran into heat issues so I’m planning on getting an oil cooler myself. What size is the cooler here, is it 25 or 30 row? Love the content and always keen to watch new episodes!
Yeah man,they get hot within a couple of laps on a trackday. Oil cooler is defo worthwhile.
I run two oil coolers on mine but i do track high performance driving on mine.
If the main concern is original rubber lines, why not just replace those, oem or aftermarket?
Fair point
@@ZeroTo60Tube I've only just bought my n54, it's my first automatic and first turbo car, so still trying to get my head round it all.
Be careful those oil lines get extremely hot. I have know clue how but the OEM Lines wore a hole in my AC aluminum hard line. I had to JB weld it until I could replace the line. Those braided lines in theory should keep temps a little lower 🤷🏻♂️ just a heads up!
Good to know!
Another great video, thank you guys! Question, could you not get 2 of the AN adapters and run one at the OFH and the other at the stock oil cooler? That way you could replace the OEM lines with new braided AN style and still run the stock cooler. Just a thought, dont know if it is possible
You probably could you know. One of my mates that blew the lines did just that, but I think some welding may have been involved.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Both ends of the cooler hose use the same O rings, so believe it is possible. You can get for under $100 the AN fittings, adapters (2) and hose from Amazon in the states. Like you said, probably not a bad idea to change out those lines after a decade. And you dont have to deal with fitting another cooler in the stock location.
Que resultados da este radiador ? Merece la pena cambiarlo por el oem ?
Tengo un 1M con el termostato cambiado y en pista el coche me llega a 130 grados el aceite, y quería bajar la temperatura y estoy buscado un buen radiador este me parece una buena opción pero quiero saber que tal vuestras opiniones
Abit late to the party. I'm sure it's been mentioned already but I and other friends I know do run into oil temp issues with stock coolers with hard use or light track. But we are using pump fuel no E85 here in the UK and ethonal helps massively with cylinder temperature = lower oil temp 🙂
Very good point. Would make sense why we just don’t seem to know heat the oil like a lot of guys do.
Just a quick question.Rob beck said that standard outlets are good for 500wheel hp.Those are the left hand drive version without the dreaded squish.By high flowing the righthand drive,these basically flow like standard lefthand drive ones.With your build going to 700-800 hp,would the high flowed righthand drive cause restriction at those power levels?👍
I have heard that a few times. And although they will definitely be a limitation im hoping we can still squeez another 75hp out of the flow max's over the china 17t setup. These outlets flow better than the ones on the 17t car, but we will see how it all ends up, or if it ends up needing a custom setup to make close to that 700whp.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I have the VTT ones,but have seen a type of copy of these on ali express that have the o-ring,V-band conection,greater flow,but need a slight mod to fit righthand drive .They explain how to do this on there site.The key would be to Potentally customise /weld something like that to fit. TheyLooked like good quality, quite cheap.👍
@@rd.3696 you can buy rhd vtt ones ,i have them on my uk 335i ,
@@mulletor123 Yes I have them on my 335i wagon.The fit was shit tho,had to slightly modify them.😀
Oil cooler or not it’s the turbo that made it caught on fire. Unless you have a turbo cooler lol it will catch fire if oil pops on the turbo
I guess you could just replace the OEM lines with a new set but then you would not benefit from the slightly lower temps at the performance levels you are running at, plus im guessing the cost of new OEM lines is probably more than an aftermarket upgrade?
P.S Happy new year to you and your family
I read that BMW engineers designed the N54 to run at higher oil temperatures purposely, they deigned it to be 230-245 Fahrenheit normal operating temperature (110-120 Celsius) for best lubrication efficiency, would it be safe running the car with cooler oil than it was designed for?
You might be right. After all everything is calculated. But those tests take place on road tests where the average speed is not above 80 mph and they don’t get past 3k rpm. When you start driving in the fashion it’s meant to and are revving the engine out over a 30 minute period the oil temp goes past operating temp. I have read in adding a bigger cooler they suggest to add half a quart of oil and bump it up to 7.5 sometimes 8 with twin setup. This might be to maintain the required flow rate.
Ideal oil temperature is 212-220F (100-105C) in order to evaporate water vapor out.
Happy New Year guys!🥳🍻🍾💥💥💥💥 . And have an awesome n54 2022. Dutch regards, Nico.
Thank you very much sir!
Would you be able to retrofit this kit into a e82 135i ?
Just had my oil cooler line on my 2011 bmw 550i xdrive explode what recommendations would you have for me ??
Can I use this kit in my 2011 335 N55?
Do you think there is room to fit a small electric pusher fan on the front of the upgraded oil cooler?
There not a lot of room. I dont have issues with engine oil temps whne stationary, but would like a similar solution for the trans cooler on the other side.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I don’t even have problems with my stock cooler as is but the age of the cooler lines got me thinking. My whole car seems to run pretty cool both coolant and oil idk if I have a problem with my thermostat but it tends to stay below 200f (93c) with the coolant and will only creep past 210f after really beating on it. I was thinking if I upgraded the cooler even tho there is a thermostat the larger cooler might take longer for the oil to come up to temp, by adding a shrouded fan. It should help actually block airflow when the fan isn’t running which should help the oil come up to temp faster but then when it kicks on keep it from getting too hot. If you google “7" Pull Push Electric Engine Slim Oil Cooler Fan” the first image that came up for me at least is the type of fan I was looking at, it has a built on shroud that should cover the whole cooler..
bro update oil cooling thermost
I have the same oil cooler on my E90, i didn’t have issues with the lines but more with the wheel liners fitting and rubbing so had to modify a lot of the stock vented plate to make it fit and not rub. Might have been lucky with the batch of oil coolers?🤷🏻♂️
We've been buying them since march and its like each batch has different fittings and lines. Pain in the back side. But we are getting there.
@@ZeroTo60Tube do you sell/ship to the US, or recommend a brand/supplier?
What brand oil cooler is that I’m looking to get one
120c 248f seems high to me whats normal? my audi 3.0 turbo hot V runs 200f normal driving 230s spirited driving. i would think it would be ideal to keep the temps to 200-220🤷♂️ am i wrong. im just a plumber so what do i know😂
Can confirm that some American N54s have no oil cooler. Mine is a 2010 with the sport package and I've been scratching my head about why it doesn't have one. Highest temps around here are usually about 90F/32C and my oil temps on a hot day on the street is 240F/116C
Needs the high temp climate package i believe
Option code 823
I run my n54 hard for 30 mins my oil temp is at 250. I drive it moderatly it goes down slowly
Happy New Years!!! Hope y'all are free next year downunda.
Happy new year fellas, shame it didn't go to plan but that's car life!
Man it was a frustrating time over xmas trying to get this car together, while maintaining family obligations, but we got there in the end.
5-30 or 5-40 oil, for melbourne?, ive got 5-40 now cause the heat at 35celcius is stupid, hoping the 5-40 will cool more
If you are stock or OTS stick to what the manufacturer of oil recommends. Castrol is 5w30 and penrite is 5w40 for example. If you are running a custom tune, see what your tuner thinks.
Does anyone have any engine noise drone or vibration after installing oil coolers?
Link for the oil cooler?
Very sad you aren’t doing TH-cam anymore Andrew . I miss your videos
Man its been a terrible 18 months tbh. I've really had to prioritise making a living, which unfortantely youtube never got close to doing. You might not know about whats still going down either.....www.spoolstreet.com/threads/zero-to-60-youtube-channel-got-raided-by-the-australian-police.8531/
hi andrew did you try swapping the lines to see if the fittings would fit better?one of the fittings might be angled slightly different lol.
I didn’t but both fittings are identical. They are just grabbing fittings from a stock pile it feels like and they are not correct.
Very small changes in the design of the fitting which aren’t noticeable in some applications cause issues in others.
Have a good one lad!
Hi I have a n54 2011 f02 will this kit work on that vehicle or can i just use the hoses and connect them to the original oil cooler? if so would you send me the link to purchase one please.
I really have no idea about the f01
@@ZeroTo60Tube Thank for the reply
Do a Skid
So what about the ducting are you going to custom make a piece for that as well?
One of our cars has custom alloy ducting, to direct air from the bumper and force it through the cooler. However never ended up doing it on this car. The temp drop was brilliant even with out ducting. However if circuit racing where temps are high, it might be worth looking in to.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yes I agree and also just for the sake of keeping it uniform. I wonder if a dual oil cooler set up using two of these same kits w/ longer an line would be even more cooling.
@@xXmoemoneyXx Really shouldnt need twins. Even a proper race car shouldnt need twins unless you are over say 600whp and circuit racings
These on your site? Or don't recommend? Link to a good kit people?
Finally got the car out and did some miles on it. There is no doubt it works and works well to reduce engine oil temps. However as for a "kit", the only kit thing is the bracket, the lines may as well be universal lines.
Simple solution - like me, don't take the car out above 30 deg c :) Haven't driven my car for SOME time now...39 today :(
Phht how pathetic
@@vxclubnew Sorry, from looking at your subscriptions - you're qualified at commenting to someone else how?!
@ian trofimov One of those Yamaha jobbies? "It's over 9000"! Bin your Corolla mouse-in-a-wheel costs what? S55 ~$30k
Mate have you got stock for the oil cooler again?
Moreover the modified Y pipe for N54 you are selling, is it a whole or i have to send mine to get it modified?
I have 2 coolers here, but i have used 45deg the fittings from the kits. I will have them again soon tho. I ended up fitting the e90 again before track, just to make the lines look a little nice and then used a new fitting..... The outlets are sold as a complete item to bolt on to your car. However if you return your original ones that we can use to make more high flowed one, we can refund you $100.
@@ZeroTo60Tube what if you send me the high flow y pipe and once it's replaced with the one I got, then I can return the OEM one to you. Can that work?
Do you have lick between the oil line fitting and oil thermostat? I am trying another bracket and it looks like the same problem
Not sure what you mean by “lick”
@@ZeroTo60Tube sorry I meant leaking 🤣
Need to sort one, for mine I think :) Great video bruz !!!
What brand is this
China, i'll have to dig up the exact supplier, but its a bit of joke. No matter what i confirm before ordering they bloody dont send what they say they are sending.
I'd stay away from china oil hoses and AN fittings.... Definitely riskier than running OEM
You may be right, but if they just copied the AN fittings properly it would be fine LOL.... says it all really doesnt it.
Hey bro, happy new year...well in a cpl of hours at least! Just a cpl of questions if I may? No rush...enjoy those drinks whilst cold ;)
Got a '09 135i m sport down here in Mexico. The whole story is sad, so I won't waffle on. Car+fence+gravestone+letting insurance slip for 12 days = 3am tow job, both airbag deployed, cracked front window, front number awol Yada Yada.
Tow repair bloke said write off, obviously. No car guy here so they ended up towing it to mine. Rang a BMW specialist wrecker. Totally understand they gotta make a buck, but he offered like 1100 for the lot. It's got the legit yellow bmw premium brake upgrade all round. I understand that may be a bit of a wank in regards to actual cost performance value. But it was a tad confusing with various opinions on them. I know they didn't come cheap though. It's got the 135i legit BMW performance zorst upgrade. The computer upgrade from that USA joint who's name escapes me atm. Rear carbon splitter and carbon boot lip. And then all the factory upgrades of sound, the gps thing, adaptive lights bla bla. I told the wrecker I rang for a quote not to be insulted.
Anyway, soz mate for the waffle on. Do you have any idea what a reasonable price would be for the engine? 150k KMs. I'm getting the hurry up to do something with it. Atm I plan on keeping the breaks, wheels,zorst, carbon bits and front lights. Sold the rear LCM, or whatever they are, already. I could probably remove the interior as well for private sale. The rest I don't have the patience nor finely tuned knuckles to bother with.
What's a fair and reasonable price to list the engine up on a few sites to best increase its chances of being moved. $2-3k, buyer collects and removes?
Sorry again to bug you mate. Just I see them listed at up to $8k and I get confused and then throw in the towel. I don't want to completely rip myself off, but I don't have the benefit of endless time with what seems to be quite ludicrous asking prices for what seem similar km engines.
Thanks bro, any advice would help me to remove my ostrich head from the sand and deal with it before I find it all gone and a $500 check form a local wrecker on the kitchen table. Cheers mate
We have bought a few damaged cars for $2000AUD. Bought running non damaged cars with mechanic issues for $2500AUD. They are worthless when they have a few issues so the place is probably being fair if they are trying to make money. The way to get the most money for yours is to strip it yourself and sell the parts separately. But it takes a lot of hours, a lot of space and a lot of dealing with idiot low ballers. It's not a fun process stripping a car to try and make money.
@@ZeroTo60Tube cheers mate, with that knowledgeable advice on board, I think it'll be a case of ripping the brakes off and the rest can be thrown on a truck! No room, nor inclination to fk arse about. Greatly appreciate you taking the time out of your day to help me out. Thanks mate 👍
nope my n54 135i 2010 doesn’t have one lol i guess i need one
Will this work on a 08 535xi?
This kit would not
Do you happen to know a kit that would?
Happy new year to you and your family.
Thank you very much. Finally catching up with them now
happy new year bro in advance 🎉 God bless you always
Another task to add to the preventative maintenance list. The wife is not going to be impressed haha. Edit: Eta on when the coolers will be instock on your site?
Not specifically, suppliers and frieght are just a mess at the moment. I do have 2 spare if someone needs one urgently. Shoot me an email if you wanna order it and we can go from there.
You have a voice like a radio guy 😄😄
Strange, most people say I have a face for radio 😂
mine just exploded hahaha
First?
Confirmed