True Prep Table Evaporator & Capillary Tube Replacement With Full Start-Up Procedure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2019
- True Prep Table Evaporator & Capillary Tube Replacement With Full Start-Up Procedure. This is how I change an evaporator coil and cap tube start to finish, a little long but if you're new to the field like the people I'm trying to help out, then you might find this worth watching.
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Here is an evaporator and capillary change out that I did. I made this for the new techs and those interested in the procedure. If you enjoy these videos please leave me some feedback! I like to know what videos were your favorites. Please subscribe and give me the thumb..lol
A Rick do you know if true mfg is going to aluminum Capillary tubing? How would you braze aluminum to cooper? I appreciate any information. Thank you Ron White.
@@whitesheatingairappliancer7101 I haven't heard that, the cap tubes I have worked on have all been copper even on the R-290 equipment from other brands. Solderweld.com has some nice aluminum braze kits and so does a few others, aluminum repairs can be done but it takes some practice and patience. I don't see a reason at this time for them to change to aluminum cap tubes but that is my opinion.
Thanks Rick, I will check out solderweld.
Cool change-out Rick. I like the care you put on flowing nitro on the right directions while brazing the cap tube on the filter. And really like the TEMPO you're mastering with the videos. Really nice to watch 👍
That video was an hour and a half before editing it down, it takes so much time to edit it when you're letting it record the whole time because you feel like everything's valuable. I appreciate you taking the time to watch it.
In my experience over the years when using the 032 drier as a replacement for a bullet drier I needed to add 1-2 ounces over factory charge.
Good to hear👍👍Thanks!
yep.putting in a bigger drier,is like putting a receiver in.
@@terryj.macmullen9968 ya, ever notice the Japanese eliminate driers altogether?
Yep, if you keep it clean your less likely to need one. But they use screens instead of driers.
they must use super dry refrigerants in japan.maybe to lessen the amount of refrigerant needed.?they must use the flamable gases there.
Good change-out Rick ... Enjoy your vids as it helps out the younger guy's or gals coming into the trade ...
I hope someone is getting something out of them. That would be great👍👍
I am. Iam. Keep them coming.
Thanks for your videos bud, very practical to see someone doing the work instead of just talking about it. Appreciate it
Thank you, I've tried to just the talk about it for 5 min and find it more difficult than just showing you how I do it.😉👍👍
Good stuff Rick- really enjoy cooler and reach in vids since I dont get to work them as much as I want, keep up the good work.
Your attention to detail is phenomenal. Defiantly makes me try to do a better and nicer job when I do these types of repiars.
Thanks Hunter! That means a lot man!
Putting out videos like crazy again. Awesome dude, always enjoy your videos. And your editing is on point! Thanks man.
Wow, thanks Bill! that means a lot. This video was over 90 minutes long before I started cutting it down, its a lot of work. I'm trying to crank them out.
Just subscribed to your channel. All I have to say is this is some real content, a guy that talks the talk and walk the walk. Detailed, professional
and experienced. Nice job 👍🏽 doing it right the first time.
Wow, thanks Tazz, I try to do it right, we don't get paid for callbacks, and It's got my name on it once I touch it. How did you find the channel? Welcome aboard👍👍
Rick thanks for teaching us, the new guys on the trade. We really appreciate. Thanks and Happy Holidays!
Your welcome, I'm glad your getting something from them. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your vids ,really appreciate your help👍
16-18 lb suction when the box is to temp is my sweet spot when I'm not weighting it in. Works every time. Thanks for the vids! I like your work.
Thank you! I appreciate the info, thanks for watching!
Happy Thanksgiving thanks for the videos
Thanks AVR, hope you had a great one to!
Got to change the comp, condenser & drier on a pizza prep table , some very good tips there . Excellent video, keep them coming !!!
Thank you!
again it is very good video for me to learn. thank you MR. Rick. happy holiday.
Thank you! I appreciate hearing that👍👍
Great video thank you. Good to know that there is replacement filter dryers to replace the pencil dryer. I will have to check them out.
There is a C-052 with ports on both sides available also. Thanks Ron!
Great video sir. Thanks for amazing walk through. Cheers
You're welcome, thank you for watching it!
Best flashlight ever!.
Happy Thanksgiving Rick! Nice brazing! That 590 is nice! I have the 500, it's nice being able to lay them on the ground like that and fully operate them. Just picked up a goose-neck AccuTrak. Really like that tool! Especially outside on windy days. Your video on that sold me! Thanks!!!
Happy TGD to you as well. The 590 has been good to me and so has Testo. But the 500 is weird about going back to 0psi. I would like to have the goose-neck ultrasonic but could not find one used, I'm cheap😁. Mine has its places where it shines and others where I can't find a leak without using nitrogen. Yes outside is the best place, definitely not a busy kitchen. Lol
Congratulations, good job, and thanks for your video, blessings
Thanks 4 watching and commenting👍👍
I use the same drier on cap tubes except where space is a premium, then I use the D-111, it has the access port as well. I do like your forward thinking to protect the cap tube of debris, and not opening the drier till needed, and the vinyl sleeve. I saw an OEM on an ac that did that and was impressed. That pressure releasing you did with your thumb is the same thing I do if I’ve sanded the end. Great advise from your dad, copper is very malleable.
Thank you for all the feedback, I appreciate that🤜🤛👍👍
Like the light setup.👍👍
Thanks man!
Great video thanks Rick!
No problem, thanks for watching👍👍
hi there¡¡ i¨m glad to see an excellent procedure it¨snt anybody can do that job as you do most of the time because of using non adequede tols- sorry for my mistakes in writing
Thank you🤜🤛👍👍
Great content and nice work thanks for sharing awesome stuff...
Thanks man! I appreciate the view and compliment 👍👍
Good video Rick. If you didn’t have any charge weights and had to charge just off pressure would that be suffice for cap tube systems. Just a little tricky charging with super heat on critically charged systems. Hard charging a cap system because they generally don’t hold a lot of refrigerant and pressures can run very low making techs believe it’s under charged.
Your superheat changes as it reaches box temperature. I would want to see enough super heat at shut down. Maybe 12-16. It’s very difficult to do it by superheat.
Thank you so much
Your very welcome, thanks for watching it! 👍👍
Great video a lot information tks 👍🖐🙏
Saludos de TodoFrigorista 👍 Argentina
Thanks for checking in! Have a good Christmas!
thank you for showing how thing really are good video
Your welcome👍👍 Thanks 4 checking it out!
Very good job.
Thanks for watching! 🤜🤛🤝
Why can't I find people like you to work on my equipment?
😁👍👍 Thanks John! I just try to do my best. Unfortunately not everyone feels that way.
Cool change out .. two things I would done differently.. would have cut the coil out the bottom outside the box .. pull it out then brazed suction and cap tube then for my last connection used a flaring tool to make my brazing .. this would prevent damage to inside box and a better brazing .. like u said u can’t weld what u can’t see .. then for my charging .. just use the data plate for recommended charge ..thanks nice video
Sounds worth trying 👍👍. Thanks 4 watching!
Always appreciate your videos. Wouldn't a rear access to that evap be great? I would like to design these boxes. I know I cold simplify the component access.
They would use thr excuse that it costs to much to do it our way. But that would be great.
Did you have any call backs because of the low saturation suction temp? I recently changed out a cap tube and had a saturated suction temp of 7-10. Unit was reaching set point and amps were good, so I called it good.
Good on you for diaging before just throwing the other techs parts in.. #LifeLessons
I’ve found that the accumulators on those true units are notorious for leaking...I always replace them when I do an evaporator
I'll keep a eye out for that, thanks DW👍👍
we always remove them
@@hvacir9176 do you replace them?
no, my boss tells me to remove them, he says they always leak@@HVACRSurvival
@@hvacir9176 🤦♂️You got to do what he wants ultimately but not a good practice. There's a reason why it's there.
Good job
Thanks for watching👍👍
Hi
If I am not wrong I heard you talking about super heat for my knowledge and my experience we don't do super heat on reach in just charge the system by the name plate 😁
That's what they have always said and it's what I generally will follow but sometimes as cap tubes get restricted, coils start to get dirty and the equipment is just worn out or miss matched, you start looking for every tool to make it work that you can use.
HI why induction is not used to join copper pipes ?
Hey sir , I am first year apprentice and I tried to braze capillary with nitrogen flowing . It won’t allow me to braze properly any suggestions for future .I have nitrogen regulator for brazing
Been using Staybrite on mostly compressor reach in replacements, but see some built in custom line cook units next off season on my project list and want to be prepared for some odd sized fitting/connections.
What size oxy/acet tip and pressures do you recommend for similarly sized equipment?
I normally use a number 2 tip, ox and acet is a 1 to 1 mixture, 5-10psi. Staybrite is ok on filter driers and txvs but I never use it for compressors. Personal preference I guess, once I learned to properly braze I stopped using staybrite.
Great repair and video. Have you had opportunity to use the Sporlan C-052 TT driver yet? Great filter so far.
Appreciate your attention to detail. It's great that you teach the new guys with detail. However, it is a shame that you have to spend time warding off the YT police and their 2 cents. I'd love to get a days education from those super techs! Thankfully, there are techs like you who not only DO the work but also give actual effort into helping OTHER people.
Thanks man, I'm trying to make a difference, I'm learning chillers and grocery racks and I'm the one looking for help, so I know what it's like to not get the help you need. I have to admit that has driven me to do what I'm doing.
Yes, I use the 032 cap tt and the 052 cap tt, both work great but they won't stop bad Poe oil from clogging the cap tube.
👍🏻🦃🌝 great tips confirmed ? What's the vacuum time with that setup!!
Check out some of my other videos where I'm doing just an empty coil, they're pretty fast. So when you're pulling on a compressor it's a whole new ballgame.
What is your opinion on accutrak leak detector?
what low side pressure should you be reading for a system like this?
What's the box temp? what the refrigerant type? Pressures change with load.
quick question how do find out the right size for the capillary tube if it not stated on the name plate or service manual?
Call the factory.
What tip do you use for your torch. Can you give me like some numbers so I can grab the same one
Not sure why I'm just seeing your question but I use a #2 for about everything. I do have 2 small rosebuds and a Captain Hook tip for bigger and harder to reach applications
lol dead nutz on i like that i/m stealing that lol
Have at it👍👍🤣 I'm a mix of several types of slang and styles.
What are your thoughts on using stabrite 8 for the cap tube?
I’d be worried that the soft solder might flow into the capillary tube. I’ve used it forever on air conditioners prior to carrier saying we weren’t allowed to use it anymore on their fortune because people didn’t know how to flux things correctly.
Cool video.....how do you find the testo manifold
Google search for the best price and service. Or www.trutechtools.com/TestoRefrigeration
👍👍👍
Hello Rick first of all thank you for a great video.. My question to you is....I've replaced a cap tube on a prep table followed pretty much all you did. I have tried weigh in the charge...to no avail...my suction line temp just won't budge...it's about 2 degrees less than my discharge temp. So then i evaluated the system and have been trying to add small amounts of refrigerant to get the box temp down at least a few degrees. I know from the compressor that it requires 266 g of R-134 a so I started there.. Currently I have. 39 and 110 pressures and 83 on both suction and discharge line temp.
My sat temps are 44 and 93. Box temp 82 ambient 80
So clearly the system is not working. I have tried removing the cap tube and blowing it out with nitrogen. Replaced the filter dryer 3 times. Is the issue here compressor related? I tested the compressor and the amp draw is 6.4 on a RLA 7.5 so that's not bad. Evaporator was replaced a year ago by another technician.. Hope to hear from you and thanks again for the great video.
Edit: clean condenser and proper air flow in evap and cond in case you ask..also no receiver on unit. Simple design.
It sounds like valves are about shot. "Low head and high suction". You verified your not restricted, I assume you tried running nitrogen from just the high side first and it made it to the suction side?. What I have tried in the past was use my pinch off tool on the suction side (do this if you don't have service valves on the compressor) and pinch off the suction line, you should pull down into a vacuum or at a minimum 0 psig. Then turn off the compressor and see if it holds at that pressure. If it doesn't pull down to 0 psig and hold you have a valve issue and need a new compressor. Thanks for contacting me 👍👍. I'm curious where are you located?
@@HVACRSurvival Thank you for the quick reply. I'm located in the river city of San Antonio Texas...
I did run some nitrogen thought the high side just prior to my soldering in the cap tube to the evaporator. I also cleared it through the suction again right before I brazed the cap. I've gone days trying to figure out what is wrong here and why my suction temp won't budge. No matter what i do. That high suction temp is causing the comp to short cycle constantly. I did manage to get it to stop cycling and got the box temp down to 70..but that was short lived once i added another ounce of refrigerant..I also
added some ice inside the box to offset the heat being produced by door heat strips...which incidentally I think they are not needed specially given the fact that the prep table is in a hot kitchen. Opinion on that?
I do mot have a pinch off tool but I'll get one from my fellow HVAC/R techs and try your suggestion to test the comp. What about compression ratios? That should also tell me if it's not operating at design too wouldn't you say?
Hey thanks again for your reply.
The heater on the door for a cooler normally is not necessary but is a nice gesture. The compression ratio according to what HVAC school has shown for cooler shows that you are operating lower than what is determined to be normal. Leading us back to the compressors defective. Now you said you did the nitrogen sweep before you brazed, did you do it after you brazed? I've soldered those shut before is the only reason why I ask. Your ratio comes to 2.3 to 1. According to Bryan Orr, the normal ratio is 3.0 to 5.5. here's a link to his math www.hvacrschool.com/compression-ratio-matters/
@@HVACRSurvival yes sir I sure swept with the nitrogen during my soldering and after...heck i did it nprior too..used so much nitrogen I killed my entire tank...lol..
Btw the compressor in question is an Embraco Aspera 1/3 hp...R134. HBP model number. Ne6187z
So aside from your suggestion I've run out of ideas as to what to try next.but at least you've pointed in a general direction.
Those compression ratios are very telling of this compressors journey. Thanks for looking it up for me. You go above and beyond the call of duty..
How can i thank you enough.
I tried posting this same question on a Reddit refrigeration sub..and i got a bunch of vile replies not even trying to address my question but instead attacking my inquiry and saying call a professional.. That infuriated me..lost hope in people...
So it was refreshing to have an adult conversation with you
Unfortunately there's a lot of insecure uneducated people out there. I'm not saying I'm the smartest but I am willing to share what I've got. I've made a lot of mistakes and that's usually why I point out what I point out. they're such a shortage of good technicians out there that we can't find anyone worth a crap.
How long is your cap tube?
Really nice video. As someone who own's a restaurant, I'm interested in learning how to work on these units since reliable techs are difficult to find in my area. My prep fridge recently stopped cooling and the evaporated coils are freezing over. Tech tried to fix it, diagnosed a 'restriction' in the system. He replaced the drier and the cap tube, but said no guarantees and if it happened again to toss the unit in the trash. Well it worked for about 3 days and started freezing the evap again, bring box temp up. Any ideas on what could be going on. All components check out good. Tossing the unit seems stupid since is clean and was working well for many months.
Lot of variables there not knowing what it is what he did how he recharged it and the history of the unit.
@@HVACRSurvival Yep, understood. I guess my main question is could a restriction cause the evap to freeze?
It can, I would like to see what the pressures are doing. Did he weigh in the exact refrigerant charge? Did he use the right capillary tube?
Does the product get Frozen?
@@HVACRSurvival no, the box temp rises, it's prep table. No defrost cycle, sp72 Bev air. Very simple unit. I allowed it to defrost for a day and it cooled like normal.
7:01 - You have a lot of fast forwards and clip-outs in this video. How long did this job actually take?
When you look at the analytics you see people's attention spans about that of a goldfish. I hate videos I got a fast forward through and people will click on to the next video. Which then penalizes my rankings. From the time I leave the shop till I return back the shop I'll quote somewhere between 5-6 hrs total.
i always prrferred to replace a cap tube than to clean it .the trouble you go through to clean ,you may as well change it.
I've never tried to clean the cap tube, I agree💯👍.
what's the info on that leak detector?
That was the fieldpeace leak detector, I had a lot of problems with false alarms, and not very sensitive on actual refrigerant leaks, I'd recommend the INFICON detek stratus or detek 3
Comming from electrical industry where people are more concerned with theory of measurements I wonder - the gauge used has declared accuracy of 5% + 5 micron. With reading of e.g. 600,0 the real value can be 35 micron off, i.e. between 565 and 635 micron. BlueVac, why do you put 4 digits on a meter with accuracy class 5?
I just checked out Testo, CPS and Fieldpiece and all of them are only 10% accurate. The only brand that I seen came in at 5% besides the Blue vac was was Thermal, the 4 main features that set this gauge apart from all the others is it can be calibrated in the field, the resolution is a tenth of a decimal, 300 hours of battery life and it holds up for well over six years so far with no problems. And this is the only micron gauge that I know of that has the leak rate broken down for easy identification. You need to remember everything leaks and the leak rate is what's really important so you can verify if all the moisture is removed. Check out Jim Bergmans vacuum videos if you want to know more about vacuum. Thanks 4 checking out my video.
@@HVACRSurvival Thanks for your replay. Again and again, I find out that I learn more by writing than by reading ;-).
You're right as far as Testo 552 goes (which I own). Testo does the same - 4 significant digits.
Declared and real accuracy are completely diffrent things and if I can not check it myself I do not believe any manufacturer and do not even consider it specially interesting. In any case any of them can be used in the field with more or less the same result.
re Jim Bergmans - I do not find his test procedures objective. Setup for testing hoses with gauges at the end of hoses indicated that either a) he has no clue what and how to test, so that numerical values mean something practical or b) he chose particular set up to emphasize advantage of one product above another.
@@Luzt. When I first tested my Tru Blu hoses I put the gauge at the end of the hose, it took several times longer to reach a low micron reading over a 3/8" hose. Does this show all the science behind the larger hose or the capability of the gauge ? No, not in one sense but how do you dumb it down to make it easy to understand for everyone that is not interested in knowing all the science behind it? You can only show so much in a video that according to the provided data from TH-cam, most people can't watch a whole 10-15 minute video from start to finish, it's amazing that on average most people only watch 40-60% of the whole video without skipping around. The human attention span is comparable to the mind of a good fish. And that is facts. Sad but true.
@@HVACRSurvival I agree and it reminds me of a story from some old, paper book with anecdotes about scientists. There was this experiment where students were to learn the color of pure water. It required 50 m of tube filled with water and sun light. The teacher noticed the assissant adding something to the water and asked what it was. The assistant said, it was some compound with azure color which allowed to make the experiment easier, because it required much shorter tube. The teacher noded and suggested that maybe the assistand should put more of the colorant and simply do with a simple test-tube. The conclusion will be the same - water has azure color.
What size cap tube and how long
I don't remember, we call the factory and ask that information.
#4 Thumbs up #13 view...
Thanks Steve👍👍
that cap tube coiled inside the evap will rub, lol
How much did you charge the customer or is this a warranty call?
I have no idea on the price. I get told how long I have to get it done And what parts I get.
How long did it take? I'm replacing a compressor on an undercounter tomorrow lol
@@sandeepsekhon6748 4 hours I believe. It was quoted for more time than that but I could probably do it in 1.5-2 hours if I didn't care about my work.
TO MUCH FLAME 🔥 YOU NEED TO LEARN SKILLS ABOUT THE TORCH
Thanks for your opinion, post me a video showing exactly how to do it if you would please. Once you posted it I will evaluate it and let you know if you really do know what you're talkin about. Most trolls don't have a clue what they're talking about, so please instead of a lot of talk, show me some action.. but I expect no response or an excuse why you won't and in the end no video to prove you are the master. Here's a little hint, get on and get off of the joint and don't set there and smoke the bitch because you're on it for 20 minutes with your sissy ass little flame. Also you can remove your tip away from the work and adjust your heat that way you don't have to have it right on the material. I can use a cutting head and braze a little quarter-inch line, it takes a little more skill than having just the perfect cone. I will be waiting for your response, and if you are correct I will do a video just dedicated to give you credit on how good you are.
@@HVACRSurvival Damn Rick.....cease fire, he's already dead lol
Thanks for the information and knowledge! Good quality video. w
What time of camera are you using?
GoPro 7 Black. Thanks Mike, your welcome! I appreciate you checking it out!