HK Models 1/48 Avro Lancaster Build - Part 3 - Painting "S for Sugar"
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.พ. 2022
- In Part 3 of the Hong Kong Models new tooled 1/48 Avro Lancaster we prime using Mr Surfacer 1500 Black then move onto painting the RAF dark green and dark earth camouflage using AK Real Colours. We also cover the application of the Cartograf decals for the markings of Lancaster "S for Sugar" using Micro Set & Sol.
If you'd like to support the Channel you can donate via;
Patreon - / spruehunter
Buy me a coffee - buymeacoffee.com/SprueHunter
Thanks for watching!
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Music;
The Clock (instrumental) by RYYZN / ryyzn
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported - CC BY 3.0
Free Download / Stream: bit.ly/al-the-clock
Music promoted by Audio Library • The Clock (instrumenta...
Track: Feeling Good - Broke in Summer [Audio Library Release]
Music provided by Audio Library Plus Watch: • Feeling Good - Broke i...
Free Download / Stream: alplus.io/feeling-good
Track: Beat the Silence - Broke in Summer [Audio Library Release]
Music provided by Audio Library Plus Watch: • Beat the Silence - Bro...
Free Download / Stream: alplus.io/beat-silence
Track: Electric Ten - Broke in Summer [Audio Library Release]
Music provided by Audio Library Plus Watch: • Electric Ten - Broke i...
Free Download / Stream: alplus.io/electric-ten
Music: Endless Motion - Bensound
www.bensound.com
Support by RFM - NCM: bit.ly/2xGHypM
Track: Freedom - tubebackr [Audio Library Release]
Music provided by Audio Library Plus
Watch: • Freedom - tubebackr | ...
Free Download / Stream: alplus.io/freedomm
RYYZN - Descriptions (INSTRUMENTAL) [Copyright Free] INSTRUMENTAL Free Download: bit.ly/31csiRf
[FULL SONG] Free Download: bit.ly/3nJQVwl
Stream: ffm.to/ryyzn-descriptions
Produced By: RYYZN, AYMEN - บันเทิง
I remember you rattling a brush of green paint around inside the cockpit before sticking the clear glass on although you couldn't then see the inside for glue fingerprints. Mind you for 6 years of age it was still good. This is lights years ahead!! The quality of this build and the clarity of your videos is superb. Well done kid I’m proud of you.
Really!? Must have been pushing the boat out on that model. I remember mostly not even bothering painting the cockpit so I would have a painted model and then just a grey styrene interior! I even remember not painting an F-14, just put the decals onto the grey plastic as it looked good enough to me, my how things have moved on. I do miss finishing a model in a weekend, takes ages nowadays before I can "fly" it round the room making engine and machine gun noises!
More Please. More reviews, and More builds. Your detailed work and build quality is very good. Subscribed!
Thanks D Pratt, part 4 of the Lancaster is available now. More in the pipeline so stay tuned 👍
Very useful for me! I am really enjoying this series!!
Thanks, glad you're liking it and finding it useful. 👍
Absolutely love it well done well worth the wait carnt wait for the next video 👏
Thanks Barney, glad you like it. I'm editing the footage for part 4 so hopefully shouldn't be too much of a wait. 👍
Great Part III Sprue. Really enjoying your build. Looking forward to Part IV and your weathering.
Best wishes Kipper.
Thanks Kipper 👍
G'day Sprue, Once again, an outstanding paint and decal job! Your technique of laying down three coats of primer and 3 coats of your top coat colours takes longer but the end result makes all that extra time and paint well worth the effort. Your authenticity levels are way up on this paint job. I've actually done a couple of different kit versions of the Australian crewed 'S - Sugar', from one of Bomber Command's Australian squadrons.
This is, apart from 'G-George' the most well-known Lanc down here in Australia.
Of course, a lot of this aircraft's fame, apart from its impressive sortie number and onboard DFC recipients, was using that real quote from 'Fat Hermann' Göring, the incompetent Luftwaffe boss. It’s one the best pieces of ‘nose art’ I’ve ever seen.
I've done a lot of research on precisely how the factories and the RAF Surface Finishers applied liveries to large aircraft.
One has to remember that both in the factory and on their bases, these huge aircraft were painted by people using the primitive spray guns and brushes of the time. Even before going into battle and even after there was minimal weathering, these large surfaces were 'naturally' varied in density of applied paints.
I've read that they had a “semi-sheen” finish to new aircraft that was swiftly dissipated by constant exposure to the open air. They were never stored undercover, unless they were having high level maintenance or repair of severe battle damage.
So, your interpretation of their pre and post weathered condition will be spot on.
I really appreciate your extreme dedication to minute accuracy, even down to a mistake made during the original paint job. I'm certain that photographs of this, and your other models, taken against a background diorama would result in pictures that looked in real perspective; showing an image of a real aircraft, at a distance. For me, that's the acid test of a properly finished model.
I also appreciate that you are giving your fellow modellers a valuable gift of your knowledge and experience.
Two of my most detailed builds were of the two aircraft (a C-60 Lodestar and a B-24 Liberator) that were the personal transport of the Australian Army's C-i-C, General (later Field Marshal) Sir Thomas Albert Blamey.
I was extremely lucky to track down General Blamey's personal pilot, a great gentleman who not only sent me many, extremely rare, photographs of these aircraft but also his original RAAF Flight Log Books he sent to me to be photographed.
We were researching a documentary on General Blamey at the time. The models were just good enough to be scanned and transferred to a CGI program for use in our digital film; as there was no film footage ever taken of these aircraft.
If we ever get to make a documentary on Australian squadrons in the RAF, don't be surprised if we ask you to make our models for us!
Can't wait to see your weathering episode. Meanwhile, I'll continue looking at your past videos. Thank you very much, Sprue. Cheers, Bill H.
Great read Bill...Big thanks
Thanks for the kind comments Bill, I'm very humbled by your praise. Glad your liking the series, I certainly enjoy reading your responses. I do enjoy researching for subjects like this as the Lanc is one of my favourite aircraft, during my childhood I was lucky enough to meet a few war hero's through hanging around various airfields. I was privileged enough to enjoy the company of Lt Cdr John "Jock" Moffat, who was at the time credited as the pilot flying the Fairey Swordfish that released the torpedo that struck Bismarck's rudder, thus causing her eventual sinking by the Royal Navy. Hearing his stories of launching off Ark Royal in conditions that was causing the deck to rise and fall 80ft, they had to time it perfectly so when getting airborne the deck didn't come back up and strike the aircraft. Then they had to locate Bismarck and then make their run through a hail of AA fire, Bismarck was firing her main guns into the water ahead of them causing columns of water to rise into the sky. It honestly beggars belief what these men went through and as I say these are true hero's and people to look up to. I will certainly be putting as much thought and detail when I come to build the 1/48 Tamiya Swordfish I have in the stash. Anyway I digress, thanks again for the kind words.
ATB
Sprue
I really enjoyed that you went through all the problems and hesitations with the wingwalks and roundels. Wingwalks and decals generally are my bane (but especially wingwalks), and most builders just skip through these aspects. Kudos on showing the grit of decal work.
Thanks, sometime I feel that missing things like this out only causes issues if you were to build along. Scratching your head when the decals don't match and then wondering if it's the kit you've bought. It's a bit of an annoying point with the kit, although there are photos of Lancs with short walkways but the kit decals still don't look right to even represent those aircraft. Plus personally I like the look, I would normally mask and spray the markings but again wanted to show what you get out of the box. Glad you liked the video always appreciate feedback 👍
Those wings look really really effective. Great explanation. Thanks 😉
Thanks Basil, glad you like it!
Your commentary and articulation of the build process is very well done, keep up the good work
Thank you 0980s, glad you like the build series.
Deep respect. How you build it, explanations and informations are on another level. Keep up the good work. Waiting for the weathering, part 4. It‘s a huge modell and putting it on display is truly a challenge. Once again chapeau!
Thanks Christian, part 4 is finally up! Moving house and changing jobs have been keeping me from the workbench but back on track now. Your comments are much appreciated! 👍
Haha...Another great tip...Painting the canopy with the interior colour first so that when you look inside you see the colour of the internal frame first...Made me laugh that the tip was so clever and I never thought of it!...Now I just need to figure out how to do that to all the models I completed already...lol
Cheers Lewis, I never mask the inside so painting like this just makes it super easy. Glad you got something out the video, good luck with your canopy re-painting! ATB
Very useful tutorial. Beautiful model and excellent build, thanks.
Thanks George, much appreciated 👍
Now imagine the border models 1/32 Avro Lancaster in your spray booth!
I'd need to build an extension and get a lot more paint! 😁👍
Well worth the wait...Great tips as usual...Haven't started mine yet...Still working on the Revell 1/32 Beaufighter which is taking a long time as its a 1974 kit that needs plenty of extra scratch building and panel lining...not too sure if I will rivet it, its pretty bald in terms of detailing...and I wanted to gather more skills before I tackle the most expensive kit in my 'to do kit collection'...Anyway, thanks for the update...really looking forward to the weathering part 4...This is the definitive HK Lanc 1/48 build process so really grateful of your time to show it...I know how long editing takes...Big thanks...From Chesterfield UK
Cheers again Lewis, yep editing definitely getting quicker but still takes a fair amount of time so always split between actual modelling and editing. Thanks for the kind words and your 1/32 Beau must be a fair size lump!
Have both the HKM Lancaster and the Airfix 1/72 Lancaster. This will be a big help. cheers.
Glad to be of help Rusty, part 4 is available now!
part 4 please 🙂
Hi Tim, part 4 is finally up now! Thanks 👍
Great job!
Thanks David!
I'm building the Tamiya version with after market parts, but this is a great reference guide. I need Part 4!
Thanks Chris, just have to finish editing Part 4. Should hopefully be out soon 👍
@@spruehunter Am I looking in the wrong place? Part for is "out soon" 9 months ago?
In all other model builds I have watched, almost 100% they are "gloss coated" before decalling and weathering, then a satin or flat coat to finish. Very interested to hear why you use your technique. It's gonna be a beauty...can't wait.
Hi John, thanks for your comment. I find myself these days rarely using a gloss coat, usually I'm fighting to knock it back later on in the build, especially when going for a worn down look but all depends on the subject of course.
The quality of the plastic in the kit is excellent, very smooth compared to some manufacturers. So with using lacquer primer and paint the finish is super smooth, then a quick polish is all that's needed. If I was using acrylics I would probably clear coat to protect the paint from constant handling and knocks (happening a lot despite not having the wings on, notice I had a front machine gun barrel ping off 😂).
The Lanc will be coated before weathering but mainly to blend the edges of the decals with sanding, its all covered in the next episode before the weathering is applied. 👍
Really enjoying this build your doing a great job, am in the process of building the Airfix 1/72 Lanc before tackling this beast, reqarding the walkway markings, the decals are correct they did finish before the roundel on WWII version, I did same on my Airfix version before I saw some original photos.
Thanks Adrian, your spot on with what you say. Some Lancs did have "short walkways" others had them out to the roundels. I don't have good photos of Sugar from above at the time I'm representing her but I do have others produced around the same time that do, personally when I come to a issue like this I tend to go with what I think looks right or apply the "what would someone who doesn't model think?" and go with that to avoid the inevitable questions of "that bit looks wrong" or maybe its just me that gets that type of constructive criticism..
Glad you like the build, Part 4 should be out soon!
Enjoying your series. Can't wait to get this kit, a bit hard to find in Australia right now.
Thanks Craig, hopefully you can get your hands on one. Very enjoyable build 👍
Craig, I just ordered one due sometime this month. Can’t wait to get my hands on it.
I’m In Australia as well
@spruehunter Did you make a part 4 video yet? I would love to see that mottled effect and the weathering you mentioned!
Hi Johan, part 4 is finally up covered the weathering and final assembly. Thanks 👍
The build is coming on amazingly well. Looks fantastic. I'm definitely going to try a lite coat first the next time I lay down a primer. I'm bad for just wanting to get it done and not taking the time.
I've still not started the tamiya il-2 1/48 I bought from you however I plan on it in the next few months. Keep up the good work the videos are very entertaining.
Thanks Jamie, I just find it makes it easier to avoid unwanted texture as you go through the painting stage, glad your like it. Hope you enjoy the Il-2 when you come to build it. ATB
I've just got this kit, and have really enjoyed following your videos - helpful, informative, and well-produced - many thanks. However, no sign of the last one covering the weathering, which is a bit worrying - are you all right?
Thanks for your concern Ian, such a great community in the modelling world. Very kind of you to ask if everything is ok, I've been moving house and changing jobs but all sorted now so can get to the important things like You Tube 😁👍
@@spruehunter I'm glad everything's OK - while I've worked at the same place since the 80s, I've moved house many times, and I know how much upheaval that involves! I hope to see more of your videos when you are up & running again (I've just subscribed 😊) Again, glad you're OK.
The mottling effects really do a great job of creating those nuances when providing camo for aircraft and, in your case, a stellar job most definitely. The subtle differences between the two colours really stand out (from my vantage point, that is) so it must be truly beaut in real life at your end. Was there a reason you didn't use the same process for the underside? Another very enjoyable episode so onwards to No 4 in due course.
Thanks Robbo, I wanted to show different ways of breaking up large areas of solid colour, so mottling on the top and in the next episode I'll show "post-shading" on the underside to break up the black. Glad you like the video, thanks for the kind comments!
@@spruehunter You are most welcome and thoroughly deserve!!
You have done an excellent job with clearly showing the various aspects of building this model. My modeling activities have been primarily around 1/12 scale F1 cars but I have started to branch out into aircraft; I have recently finished the Airfix Valiant and an old version of the Airfix Vulcan where I had to do a lot of panel line scribing. I am currently working on another old Airfix 1/72 scale kit of the Avro Anson; not an overly exciting subject but my father trained on these during WW2. After assembly I did the Duck Egg Blue underside colour and then went onto the Brown Earth as the first part of the top camo finish. I used a Humbrol Dark Earth #29 thinned 50/50 with Mr. Surface Leveling Thinner. Most of the finish was good but I had areas that looked like I had thrown talcum power on whilst the paint was still wet. Any ideas what I might have done wrong? Looking forward to the next episode of the Lanc build which is weathering I think.
Thanks David, the old Vulcan is certainly a lot of work. I have the new one in the stash but will get to that in due time, the new tooled Anson looks nice too. Very under represented aircraft in the modelling world especially as its significance in the trainer role.
As for your textured paint the only thing I can think of is the paint is drying on its way from the airbrush to the surface of the model? Although to be fair I have never airbrushed using humbrol, only hand painting. I generally thin the paint as much as I can then apply using the method in the video, close and low air pressure to keep it wet until it hits the surface. You could try the neat thinners trick to try and smooth out your paintwork, failing that I would wait until its totally gone off then just give it a light sand then polish. And if needs be just blow the area back in with the humbrol. Maybe even a more highly thinned mixture, say 30% paint to 70% thinners? See how you get on and let me know the results.
Hope that helps and thanks again for the kind comments! 😁👍
@@spruehunter Excellent advice! I will try the straight thinner first and if that doesn't provide an acceptable finish I will go with the 30/70 paint to thinner mix. The Humbrol was the only suitable Dark Earth I had at hand as I usually use Tamiya acrylics. But living on Vancouver Island hobby supplies are difficult to get hold of so I had to use what I had available.
Coming along really nicely! Can the White Tack you used to do the camouflage be re-used? I've started using AK Camouflage elastic putty for this job and after use it can be rolled up and put back in its' protective bag - any paint on it just disappears. I've used it on a couple of builds now and have been really pleased with the results. Also an interesting technique for applying decals to bare but polished matt paint.
Thanks Peter, yeah I use the same white tack all the time, I think eventually I'll need to replace but its fairly cheap and easy to get hold of. Never used the AK stuff but heard its good. I find myself rarely clear coating these days before decals, combination of smooth paint and a quick polish gives me the same result. If I was using acrylics I would probably give it a gloss coat just to protect the paint but the AK real colours seem to stand up to handling really well.
Is there a part 4? Weathering effects for the Lancaster?
Part 4 up now Kurt, hope you enjoy 👍
Do you tape off from just above the window line when doing the final paint?
Yes, just enough to cover the top window line from the bottom edge of the cockpit window, then followed the panel line from the above the windows towards the rear of the fuselage, if that makes sense? Think it's readjusted in the video from where I initially masked it but had to move it further up when checking references. 👍
did you ever do apart 4, Im about to build this, and cant find a part 4 anywhere
Hi Martin, you'll be glad to hear that part 4 is finally up now! 👍
@@spruehunter I've watched it many thanks, now to start my build
which airbrush do you use I am looking for a good one, the ones I have are old and keep clogging up.
I use an Infinity CR Plus with a 0.2 needle/nozzle, very easy to strip down and clean although I use mostly lacquers through it so less of a problem these days. Used to have issues when I used Vallejo due to the polymer they use in their paints. If you clean your airbrush out with lacquer thinners it manages to shift any paint left in the airbrush. If I was in the market for a new airbrush I'd probably go for a Mr Hobby Procon Boy as they seem the best value for money in the premium airbrush category. Budget airbrush I'd look at the Fengda one around £25 in the UK from Amazon, hope that helps. Happy modelling 😁👍
I have purchased a Mr Hobby Procon and it's great thanks for your recommendation
Regards David
No problem at all, glad to be of help. Let me know how you get on with it, I'm tempted by one myself! 😁👍
Great build I've built the tamiya version but gonna go for this kit nxt. Can I just ask tho what airbrush is it u use? Like how it's mega for fine detail but also the much bigger coating areas and am in the market for a upgrade! Many thanks
Hi Parko, I use a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution CRPlus with a 0.2 nozzle & needle. Although if I was in the market for a new airbrush I would probably go for a Mr Hobby Procon Boy PS270, comes with a Mac valve and trigger limiter and reasonably priced. The H&S is good but I do find myself cleaning it a lot as gunk builds up in the nozzle, probably the easiest airbrush to take apart and clean but I hear good things about the PS270 which seems to need less maintenance and cleans well by just running some lacquer thinner through. Hope that helps you out and thanks for your kind comment. Cheers 👍
@@spruehunter thanks for the heads up great advice I will certainly consider it. Great build
No worries 👍
@@spruehunter gone off your recommendation boss and just brought myself a Xmas present in the Mr hobby airbrush 👍🏻
@@Parko2017I'm tempted to get one myself after all the good things I hear about them. Enjoy! 😁👍
This guy is awesome. But I think he fell off the face of the earth. Been waiting for part 4 since Jesus was a boy 😂
This comment made me laugh for ages! 😂 You'll be glad to hear Kurt that I'm back! Moving house and changing job put things on hold but part 4 is now available. Onwards and upwards! 👍
@@spruehunter Haha welcome back mate!