Your subuaru channel is like the ONLY good one out there because you actually talk succinctly and don't ramble and you're not yelling at us or acting like a total hoonigan. I'm really enjoying this content
I'm running Swift springs on OE replacement KYBs and it's absolutely gorgeous, still handles like a beast but maintains much of the comfort of the stock suspension
Same, I’m running bilstein b12’s with H&R springs. Ride quality is very close, maybe even better than stock, but feel way better in corners. Coil overs are nice if you’re tracking your car and need to be able to make adjustments for track conditions but usually overkill for daily drivers especially if you don’t know how to dial them in (which I don’t think most people do lol). Also, I used to run coil overs on my last car and during the winter the perch ring threads would get loaded up with salt and debris and became an absolute mess. Spring/shock set up is much easier to maintain imo
I'm so glad I found your channel when I started modding my wrx. Watching your setups and recommendations compared to using my friends advice ( he blew threw two motors in his sti) has helped me pick the right parts and is the reason why my car runs so good
This is completely true. Before I had the money to get an Etune I was running Cobb catted dp with a k&n intake and the car ran horrible and had so many issues that I couldn't figure out but once i went and got the tune all of those problems went way and the car runs phenomenal now. Love the vids man.
Excellent list and couldn’t agree more. Might I add ‘track focused mods’? Many car enthusiasts don’t seem to understand that a car set up for the track, will be a very poor daily driver street car. Examples would be track brake pads (which are generally noisy and require heating up before braking properly), solid mounts and metal bushings (which you touched on already), brake bias controllers and semi-slick tires (if you see any rain during the year).
This is well thought out and delivered in a good way. Getting your car tuned properly for any mod is HUGE!! You can do exhaust all day and not worry, but if you touch ANYTHING on the intake side you need a tune. I would add do not get an etune if you have replaced anything. I had an appointment at fathouse fab for a dyno tune before I replaced part one. Of course part one was $6k in parts and had my check engine light on all the way there, but the drive home was fabulous!
Spent $900 on D2 coils for my BMW they are stiff, however, I’ve had them on for over 3 years and had no issues. They are middle of the road comfort could be better but I’m pleased with how they have preformed
One thing to add is polyurethane shifter bushings. I bought the Kartboy short shifter kit with those bushings and now I’m getting noticeable NVH through my shifter 😭
Agree completely with everything on the list. Especially the tuning, I ran ots stage 1 with a catback for 7-8 years and over 100,000km between two different wrx's, and never had a single issue. The most important thing is, I'll say it louder for the kids in the back, HAVING THE RIGHT PARTS FOR THE TUNE!!! Lol. Side question because I keep getting distracted by it, but are you planning on sealing the headlight/inlet? I keep meaning to ask but always forget by the time I'm done watching the video
LOVE LOVE LOVE these discussion videos! Please do a DEEP DIVE video on suspension / handling upgrades. I have almost all of the Whiteline suspension parts + BC coils on my car, and addicted to the grip! I would love a video on levels of suspension upgrades, whether (and what kind of...) chassis bracing is worth it, and what is / is not worth the $ for suspension parts. PS... I'm the white SF5 Forester you smashed on the last live stream! I promise to take better photo next time so you don't have to hum/haw about the smash lol
Yes please do this!!! I am building a 14 wrx and don’t car much for any power over 300 whp but would love for a sweet video from you on suspension upgrades so I can tear up the canyons here in Utah!
Current set up: JDM 4/2 pots with braided lines, and BMC brace (trying to source an STI BMC if you think it’s worthwhile) BC Coilovers Whiteline sway bars + endlinks (switching to GNP end links soon) Roll centre kit + anti lift (caster) kit STi carbon Front / WL rear strut tower bars She’s a daily so open to suggestion on keeping stock bushing, or which to replace. Also looking for advice on whether (or WHEN) lower control arms / trailing arms are worth the expense. I have a set of STI aluminum control arms ready to install but want to finalize my suspension set up because that will be alignment # 3 since I keep upgrading the suspension set up :) Working on a 2.5L RS-Ti street + track weapon build next, so I’d love to hear recommendation on daily v track day suspension upgrades. Fozzy bear (my SF5) is a 2000 JDM Forester St/B. OEM+ theme inside and out. Apart from the turbo back and suspension, all OEM+ STI Type MII interior (full black/on/black), V1 STI front seats, V9 STi wheel, STI TMIC, gold BBS wheels (summer), forged pro drive wheels (winter). Just missing the SF5 STI rear seats and e-brake handle to finish the STI interior. OEM drivetrain since I cannot open source tune the OEM ECU… so big sad, and hence the RS build next
Gotta give a big shout out I order a hoodie for my wife for the first engine giveaway but it unfortunately arrived with a big burn from the printer. But not the point my wife messages and was immediately taken care of with a replacement on the way so if you're even the slightest worried about buying his merchandise just know he stands behind it and makes sure everyone is happy. Thank you tanner for helping her and it's awesome to see the channel and blubaru growing.
But Tanner, I put an intake, downpipe, and blowoff valve on my 16 sti on an OTS tune and it ran great! Then I cracked 2 pistons because I leaned out from my blowoff valve leaking and ended up costing me thousands. Now I'm in the process of doing it correctly so it never happens again. Learned the hard way but I learned!
Wouldnt that richen fuel? Not lean.. As the motor is losing air post maf. meaning it thinks its getting more air then it is thus adding more fuel. Least in boost. It leans the idle with air leaks as your losing vacuum.
@@ogfromutube9649 yeah, my car ran really rich in boost and really lean on idle and at slow speeds. I assume thats what caused my pistons to get hot and when i sent it with too much boost it caused cylinders 2 and 4 ringland failures and cylinder 4 to have a few small cracks around the top of the piston
@@rudecanadian9916 ouch... I ran my aem x series wideband into stock ecu. Since it has much faster response on short term fuel trims. One time maf was dirty i noticed afr was staying in 14s under wot so immediately let off. This is why wideband arer so important on higher then stock power levels and even stock. Modern volvo uses wideband from the factory. Also have my ecu tuned to flash engine light when knock/detonation is detected. Not super sensitivie tho. If more then 2 knocks deteced in a 1 second interval it triggers and i know to let off. Or if water meth isnt triggering. Also have low windshield washer fluid light on gauge wired into methanol resevoir. Stock ecu had a 3 bar map soldered in as well as stores 2 maps that i can switch on the fly. However i did not setup safeguards to auto switch maps on knock. The main difference between the 2 maps is ignition timing. Nor do i have flex fuel sensor for fuel quality. But we have no e85 here. So i use vp racing octanium with 93 super and am able to run 39* of timing advance. My ecu also had no way to control vvt cams. So we repurposed the rear o2 preheater wires to power the vvt solenoids at certain rpm/load points as the rear o2 is disabled and am running catless downpipe. Lots of stuff you can do to save your engine. Im running 23psi on a 50mm with stock internals just wont ramp in boost til over 3k to avoid bending rods. Also my 5cyl 20v is 8.5:1 cr. Headgaskets arent really a concern until much bigger turbos. The 2.3 with 83mm bore has thick cylinder walls so cracking is less prone then the 2.5 engines with 9.5:1 cr.
@@rudecanadian9916 same thing here, put a bov on when I was in highschool bc it “sounded cool” and don’t get me wrong, it sounded awesome, but I was losing SO MUCH AIR. It was dying at idle. It had some really nice pops and bangs as well, thankfully some other minor parts went out before any real damage was done and that scared me into going back to no bov. Could’ve been much worse. Not a very smart decision😂
Currently laying on the couch with a sore mouth and hating every second of it but the whole “Luther the Armadillo” thing was funny and made me feel better. I love the random tangents. Thanks for temporarily making me forget about the pain.
Great list - I think another important thing to note about OTS maps and why I ALWAYS recommend a Pro tune or at the very least an E Tune is that not only are OTS maps a generic tune for the specific parts they are meant for (like Cobb) but every environment is different. An OTS map in a place way above sea level won’t perform the same as in a place below sea level. But a pro tune done in both of those places respectively will be fine tuned for those conditions
Ive had my Raceland Primo coilovers on my 11 WRX for about two months now and they are phenominal so far, only oddity is shock noise on the fronts. Ride quality is pretty good and they're 15-way adjustable. Only thing left to see is longevity.
as a 32 year old who joined NASIOC in 2006 when I bought my first car (97 Impreza L) and read literally every bit of info I possibly could between then and now going down that subaru obsession rabbit hole, I agree with every single point you made.
Just traded up to a 2021 STI from a 2020 WRX Premium with stage 2+. I 💯% agree with tuning!!! Tune for everything and try to stick with the same manufacturer. I went Grimmspeed everything engine wise with a Tomei cat-back and BrenTune 93shell map and loved it. Daily driven. No issues. Keep up the great content bro!!!!
I would add a few more things. It drives me crazy when I see dangerous mods added just to look cool. Aftermarket steering wheel. I’d rather have an airbag. 6point roll cage on the street? Super dangerous with no helmet.
everyone who has an aftermarket steering wheel understands that it doesn't come with an airbag and they don't care. the video is about mods that result it negatives that aren't very obvious before you install them. hindsight 2020
I had a crosstrek because I hike a lot and spend some time in the mountains. I trade it for a WRX and now I’m wondering if there is such thing as coil overs with air suspension so I can bring it up if I’m somewhere that I need more height?
Local cat from Renton here! Another great vid bro! Ive never broke any of these mod guidelines myself, but one of your vids a while back talked me out of a 50/50 B.O.V. ...So I installed a cobb sf intake with their "airbox" and I hear all the bypass valve i need and am loving it on my pro-tuned cobb stage 2.5 2004 wrx wagon daily driver. A mod I say to avoid is EBAY headlights... spec-D or anything like that. They "might" look cool in daytime but at night the light output and beam pattern are SHIT and unsafe at best
My car came stock with 16s which do not clear calipers on 13" rotors. My spare is rear only lol. If i get a front flat i have to swap it with a rear and put spare on the back. Guess i shouldve bought 5 rims...
Tuning n00b here. How long can you go without a pro/dyno tune once you've added bolt on mods to your car? For example, say you've get an intake, AOS, BPV and catted J pipe but can't get an appointment with your pro tuner for a week or more and there isn't an OTS map for your particular mix of parts. Should you wait to install until just before your tune date, or can you get buy for a while? Also, most dyno shops want everything to be as perfect as possible before you show up; if you've just built everything, how do you ensure it will pass their pre-run inspection?
100% agree with everything on this list I have one more huuuuge thing: 1.) If you decide to do a full "build" be brutally honest with yourself and set REALISTIC power goals. Nothing comes without a compromise. For example choose clearances that match how the car will be used. You may find yourself stuck with a noisy, piston slappy car that may be capable of big power, but it won't be a car you want to drive to work everyday.
Solid info. A few other mods that can ruin your daily driver are cheap cast wheels that crack and fall apart (any size cheap rims will do this), cheap brakes and cheap brake rotors, cheap exhaust systems, and cheap ebay turbos. Every one of those listed I've seen end up bad.
I will never understand the idea that a daily should have any of these mods. I figured it out on my own about 20 years ago. If I can afford to pump all this money into a car I love to increase it's performance, I can afford to have a really cheap decent car to daily. What this video doesn't even touch on is the environmental damage done to a car that driven in rain/snow. Moisture destroys the parts under a car. Dirt holds moisture against surfaces longer, and road salt/brine does that while also drastically accelerating corrosion.
Thoughts on shimmed or aftermarket diffs ? Got some , drifts insane but super super tight at low speeds . What’s your experience or thoughts on em ? I bought car off a really really reputable Subaru shop worker was basically built for the track but it’s a immaculate road car
Great informative video! I'd like to make a suggestion, if you don't mind. When making a video involving a list, can you either put time stamps in the description, or have an indicator on the screen as to which number of the list you are on? For example, if I already know solid mounts are a bad idea on a daily, I'd like to skip ahead to the other items of the list but don't have any way of knowing where to skip to, so it's a guessing game as I skip 10 seconds ahead over and over until I hear you talk about something else, and I might miss something that I wanted to hear. Otherwise, really enjoyed the video!
The lightweight crank is super dependent on the style of engine you have, like inline 4s will kill themselves with one, but an i6 will be perfectly fine. I remember reading somewhere that the older ejs dont even have a harmonic balancer because the boxer cycle of the engine is supposed to be self balancing
@@Smeedia for sure, the difference between an OEM pulley set and a lightweight/underdrive pulley set is minimal at best, and the $200 or so and time spent replacing them could easily be put into something like braided steel brake lines or lightweight flywheel that will drastically increase performance
Yeah, the idea is balance. I know that longer living and higher revving rotaries get the rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley to ensure minimum front to back forces. A lightweight flywheel will throw off crank balance just as much as a lightweight pulley.
@@foxunfocused idk im running a ttv 11lbs chrome moly single mass flywheel as it was pinned for a better heavier sachs 707 pressure plate. Little harder to rev match and harder on the calf muscle. But once used to it, it shaves about .2 off 1/4 mile. And has less drop during shifts. Also impossible to slip even 4th gear 3500rpm launches. Like Subaru volvo also has ton of rev hang but its supposed to.
Totally agree on the bov!! I put upgraded diverter valve with a stainless tube inlet and open filter.. Still sounds amazing and no unaccounted for unmetered air.. The ecu assumes that air is being recirced on throttle lift. Which is how you get rich spikes on shifts. And more drop in boost during shifts as well. Mines custom tuned and even my tuner said DO NOT use a bov... Heavier spring and silicone diaphragm is all you need for higher then stock psi...
05 wrx bone stock 1 owner car 166k miles wasn't abused too bad did leak down test all healthy I've done a full tune up on it ik I'm going to need an aos what would be a good mod list for a fun daily
Man I know you’re crazy busy but I’m in the process of doing a rebuild with an OEM shortblock and would like to ask you a few questions. I do have the service manual. - Rocker arm sequence. 2015 wrx, they all fell when I first pulled the cam carrier. Labeled 1 and 2. Cannot find anything anywhere on them as far as a reference to what the numbers mean. Closest thing I believe I found was someone saying wear pattern is why they need to go back where they came off of. - LW Crank Pulley. You explained it in the video, however, I only ask I need to replace the OEM. OEM is $120 or so, same price as an aftermarket. Car is FBO on E60 401 whp. If oem is the way to go and it’s not worth explaining - I completely understand. - creating gaskets. Is there a way to verify or check if it’s sealed right aside from a start up? Or a method I can do at home? Thanks. Love the content.
mk7.5 TSi Golf here (1.8t) OTS APR Stage1 tune no engine hardware modifications required BUT I insalled a proper front mount from CTSTurbo, a turbosmart full recirculating diverter valve and a neuspeed intake as well as a stage2 southbend clutch, a "turbo muffler delete" + second cat AND Muffler delete (kept OEM resonator) with that setup I KNOW I am not at full potential and that a proper tune would make more power.... but that's the thing, I don't want more ! I just want my IATs to be low and my Diverter valve NOT to stick as the OEM does +.. a clutch is never a bad idea.... there is some flaws in your reasonning,and while I agre with most of the things you said... some of us mod our car to be faster.....but not...rocket ships !
Also depends on the ECU and car. Some ECUs are nit capable of making suitable adjustments without tunes. VW ECUs have fantastic self learning properties. Each application and car will vary though 🤙
Is there a way to send you a pic of my 17 sti. Rear camber seems to much just trying to figure out is this is normal. My 08 hatch sti did not have this issue. I’m getting some Cusco upper arms for rear to fix but I’m just curious there’s been no rear damage to the car except for my wife back into it one day.
I had put polyurethane mounts on my Mustang ages ago, and all I did was make the car shake like crazy, and it actually cracked my bellhousing. I can't imagine metal to metal.
@@Smeedia yup, cracked about a 10 inch gash on the left hand side, it took about 4 months to do that though. Had to replace the bellhousing and ended up putting stock mounts back on the car. It was (and is) a shaky V8 though)
100% agree with all of these. From personal experience as well. For example, the BOV. Mine was even a hybrid and had a massive leak, and I didn’t even know until I got a retune. On that, making sure you know what kind of tune you need in conjunction with the parts you had lol I was on a catless tune with that hybrid BOV leak for like a year lol
But why did the bit about NASIOC get me to literally laugh out loud 😂😂😂 And then “I can put whatever parts I want on my car” 😹😹 of course you need a tune
Kind of a late question but ive seen a lot of debate regarding tuning for a fully recirculating bypass valve. If youre running bone stock on sti can you use it without a tune? I know blowoff is kind of pointless for a stock motor and you absolutely should tune but the only answer i seem to find on forums is "just keep the stock one bro" or i use a 50/50 or 60/40 and its fine.
As an ASE certified tech, who's been through all of this (and as an Evo X owner, which also uses a MAF sensor setup). On a stock setup, with a MAF setup, use a bypass valve (BPV), not a blow-off valve (BOV). Especially, if you don't have any supporting mods or tuning. I'm at 500 whp & still use a BPV (I'm not tuned for speed-density - i.e. no MAF sensor). You will not see any gains by tossing a BOV on a stock setup. As he mentioned in this video, installing a quality air-intake will amplify that "pffftt" blow-off sound that you're most likely looking for. Adding an upgraded BPV (Cobb), with an intake, will further enhance the sound.
Just a pro tune made my car run more healthy and more powerful. And now I won't be installing the lightweight crank pulley my friend gave me.(I think ik why he gave it to me now) edit: smeedia is so cool, he hearted my comment like 6 months after he posted the video❤
I put Swift springs on my bugeye wagon and the ride is great but it looks way too high. Most people assume it’s stock ride height. I got the Swift springs because I always thought BC coilovers were bad quality but I guess that’s not true. Deciding if I should just switch to BC Racing and deal with the harsher ride. I can’t justify putting air ride on that old car at this point.
people screw up by trying to go full race car on their street car. i went with all group N bushings, engine, top hats, all suspension bushings. STi brand lowering springs on Tokico D spec struts.
Help me!!! I just found out my engine coolant was in low meter. Idk if there's a leak yet. But was wondering if i should let dealership check up on it if theres a leak or just filled the coolant. I appreciate the help!
Hey man, I liked the video. I think something you could add, and im not going through all the comments and what not to see other suggestions, but my sti, I tried to do things that were just like.... weight reduction. I thought no tune needed, I could handle it etc. 2 piece rotors, carbon fiber driveshaft, and light weight flywheel. lots of rotating mass reductions, that you wouldn't think would mess anything up, but they added up. I had driven only manual for about 10 years at that point and when descriptions of clutches say about track use only, they mean it. I killed my car a few times breaking it in, pretty embarrassing. I wont lie, once I figured it out it was very quick, but it was hard to nail down constantly. I did snap motor mounts, and went solid, and I agree with what you said (tho i like the sound and feel) I would argue motor mounts on the list, before clutches and flywheels that are arguably more "upsold", should be added to your list at the very least.
What about external waste gates for a daily? I have FA20 wrx I guess stage 3 no flex fuel, wanting to add flex and external waste gates with killer b header but not sure if the external waste gates will be liveable
can confirm - the stock BPV with the cob intake sound incredible. it's not quite as loud of a "psh" noise but its still pretty sick. 10/10 would recommend
@@blakedavis1665 I have the Cobb SF intake + air box. I know they offer some overpriced carbon one or something but I doubt it sounds better. Looks nice though!
@@Telesko awesome thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2020 wrx and just have a Cobb catted turbo back exhaust and my accessport so it’s nice to hear good things about Cobbs intake
got my 2013 PBP wrx wagon in nov last year finally did timing belt/throttlebody/radiator hoses, throttlebody hose/trans, rear diff flud/oil, filters, stock air filter/ and some stuff for suspension. feeling like a new car! can't wait to go cobb stage 2 with an ets cat back. ill be sure to get E-Tuned!
Im actually running solid mounts on my daily driver 05 Legacy GT. MSI solid engine mounts. Aluminati solid transmission mount. Currently running an agency power pitchstop with whiteline crossmember bushings. But i still feel the car isnt solid enough for my liking so i might throw in the aluminati solid pitchstop with the solid crossmember bushings. Personally the NVH does not bother me that much. (does occasionally on long drives) but for the majority of the time i can put up with it. But the feeling of solid mounts is unbeatable. You feel so connected to the car. I would recommend it for people who can put up with NVH!
The coilovers on my mk5 gti were about $800 (in 2010) and have over 100k miles on them now and are still near perfect you don't have to spend much more for reliability just don't go for the absolute cheapest $200 no name special.
Wait, but I was so happy when you said in another vid that it's ok to get a light weight crank pulley for a daily car that hasn't been heavily modded? And now I want one lol. Little co fused though. I would love If you made a vid specifically to detail a few bang for buch things you can do to bump up your daily driver's power. I have a long highway commute with my 13 Impreza sport and was surpirsed by the difference when I got a k&n drop in filter and removed the pzev filter. I had to reset the ecu for it. I don't need a turbo, just want to know what's good. Would a straight thru muffler, CAI, highflow cat, headers, and maybe fuel inctors and throttle body make a nice little difference? And which of those would make the most difference? Thanks! New fan
What is the largest size tire that can fit on these cars, more specifically the 2019+. And what size tire looks the best? I hate the skinny tire look on cars and I'm planning on getting a sti in the next few weeks.
I kept my stock springs and added Koni yellows on my 13 WRX which gave enough drop for a four season car. Not easy finding springs still in production for my car.
This actually had useful information in it, and didn't default to common answers. Though, I would like to add: Bigger turbos (not just slightly), FMIC (on WRX hatches in cold areas) and turbo blankets. Subies already lack in low-end torque to begin with, so having a significantly bigger turbo will make it annoying in stop-and-go traffic. As for turbo blankets, they're a major fire hazard, as they're a perfect wick whenever oil gets on them. Lastly, front-mount intercoolers are fine on most Subies, except for daily driven hatches in cold weather. This is pretty niche, but it's also incredibly annoying to deal with. To install a FMIC, you need to relocate your battery into the hatch. Except, there's no mechanical backup for the hatch, so if your battery ever drains, you're nearly screwed. You have to climb through the interior (between the front seats if the rears are locked), manage to fold down the seats while you're cramped in there, get into the back and pop off a little plastic cover to even access the hatch release. And that's not even including the possibility of battery acid leaking into the interior (you should have a box, but battery acid causes rust and the fumes are highly toxic).
Hey man, ive got a 2015 sti. Im new to tuning/performance...new to cars in general honestly because ive only really been into them since i got my car a year ago..... Anyway, thinking of getting the stage 1 package from cobb for my sti. Comes with the accessport and intake. Im wondering if youre able to give any insight to the ots tune. Is it safe to run if the intake is all i add to the car, or is it gonna make my car unreliable?
I bought a ‘19 wrx cvt in October and just recently threw a Cobb stage 1 tune. I have a nameless muffler delete but other than that I plan on just tossing the Cobb Intake for the stage 1+ tune and leaving it be after I get an Invidia r400 for it
@@Smeedia now I want to be sure, in terms of reliability, the muffler delete shouldn’t affect the behavior of the car too much right? With the Cobb stage 1+ Intake and tune it shouldn’t be anything unpredictable. I get my oil changed every 3000-3500 miles depending on when I get the time. I do drive 100 miles a day in the car. Looking to add a liiiiiittle more power but keep it as a fun daily. Any recommendations other than the trans cooler (already looking at those)
@@Smeedia thanks man, love the vids btw. Funny to hear you point out faults I’ve had buddies do on their cars. Not even mentioning subies lol. They’re temperamental but really fun cars and of course…the rumble 🤤
What about 70A poly mounts? I'm leaning towards M3 OEM rubber mounts for the engine and I'm changing the shifter detents and switching from dual mass to a single mass flywheel and I'm installing a double sheer selector rod. Should I go with M3 transmission mounts or 70A poly?
70A is not too bad. My trans mount is 70A and gives some whine and some vibration but not too bad for daily driving. Swapping out that dual mass is going to feel so much better. Absolutely hated the one in my Golf R.
13:30 OTS Maps are just temporal If plans are to reach certain hardware: full exhaust, bigger turbo, FMIC, Freektune, etc... these, at least in my case, were achieved 5 years after buying the car... I even planned the whole thing before buying the car. So I installed the Intake, then bigger TMIC (in my case), better recycling valve... and used the first OTS map (Stage 1), then added the rest and kept climbing... specially the new fuel pump. The plan was not to use the OST, but to keep going until I could get a real tune from professionals or go to a dyno Once I did it was happiness... slow, perhaps, but I am a woman and geez installing the exhaust and specially the DP was hell and I had to ask for help
I installed Ruthenium plugs and didn't tune for the extra ignitability. First time I really opened it up, it fired too early and cracked a cylinder sleeve. Simple shit like a different material plug even needs a tune.
WRXs are only MAF tunable right? I’ve seen speed density kits for STIs, but last I looked nothing for FA20s. And agree with keeping the BPV. I bought the Turbosmart smartport BPV/BOV hybrid and tried venting to ATM and it would kill my car. Took the vent off and plugged it to be full BPV and still ran terrible but wouldn’t kill the car. Ended up putting the stock one back and and ran fine lol🤷🏻♂️
💯 with the BOV. I got a Cobb intake and Cobb LF BPV on my 2016 wrx. (Ets 4in fmic) And it sounds amazing. So loud. All the perks of a BOV, but completely functional and safe for the motor.
Agree with everything. Solid mounts, eh, personal preference and I actually enjoy them. Didn’t mention hybrid bov/ bpv. They too are no bueno, especially open to atmosphere even a little bit, and tend to have a higher probability of leaks. STI I bought had one, I immediately put a factory one back on.
The wrong size wheels in regards to the offset was a great topic. Tire poke is extremely unsafe. Hit a a bad bump and bottom out on the fender and it's probable you are going to loose control and wreck.
Yep! I watched this happen to a Civic (because of course, right?) directly in front of me on I-95. Car looked awesome, rolling low and wide over some really meaty fit, but we came to an area where the road was being graded down, and POW, he was on the shoulder. Like, full, catastrophic blowout of his tire. I love poke, but you've gotta do it right. The top of the tire should still be able to clear your fender. Usually, stretched tires and cambered wheels so that you can tuck the top inside the fender. And it goes hand-in-hand with the cheapo suspensions. FFS people, if you're gonna lower your car, or go with crazy setups, make sure you know where it will bottom out. Properly adjust your damping. People cut 2" out of the stock spring to slam their car over some funky fitment, and then wonder why the hell they keep shredding tires or chewing the fender.
Hey man maybe you know. I have a 21 wrx and I’m having a p0420 issue. This all happened after I gotten a Cobb gesi catted j pipe. Is there a issue with these j pipes? Or is it my car lol. I cleaned my 02s already and the car only have 9k miles just curious on what your thoughts are
Powerflex makes different durometer poly urethane mount bushings. Diff colors for diff stiffness. Even filled one using 3m window urethane before its about 20% stiffer then rubber.
Great video, first time I have seen your channel, definitely will check out the rest of your videos. Can't have too many guys like you trying to help the newbs and steer them away from "im gonna be so cool" decisions. Back in my day it was fart cans and cut springs, lol.
That's not true actually when you're talking about the fiesta ST regarding the OTS map. Ran the car from 55k to 132k on OTS, BUT*** like he said you must ONLY run the parts on Cobb's website, but I also never raced it. Maybe a couple pulls but was a daily driver. Although, I'd never do that to a Subaru as they're more finicky
I've been looking at a 2011 wrx hatch. 140k miles. It has a turbo smart BOV and an unknown brand catback exhaust. If I were to buy it, then take it to get properly tuned, would I be able to avoid a lot of problems in the future?
I have poly (might as well be solid mounts) on my daily and it’s honestly not crazy bad. At first the vibration was really rough but once you get used to it it’s not too bad 👍🏻
Thank you for this.. I am new to subi and trying to do this RIGHT . This video was extremely helpfull in my education! Love that Pass side headlight looks like its got a ram air port.. where are they available? Thanks again
I have a GFB blow off valve on my 05xt mainly because the previous owner blew the old engine in it up by putting too much boost through a stock engine, my mod list is: GFB blow off valve BC racing coil overs turbo back exhaust (xforce 3") 5x100 17x8 wheels rota grid r engine swap of the same year as previous owner blew the engine sti bonnet scoop money is my main issue as i want to make my car look as nice as it can but it takes me about 6-12 months between mods but i love it too bits (bov is 40% atmosphere vent for very cool pshh noises)
So, here I am, juicing my morning wheatgrass, about to watch another excellent Tanner video about stuff I should not do to my car. I smile, confident in the knowledge that nothing on his list will pertain to me, as my stock AF 2015 STI - with the exception of a Mishimoto air intake- sits happily in my garage. I just had the 105,000 mile service done to the car and added 2 items I didn't think would affect my car at all; a COBB pitch mount brace and a lightened pulley. Tanner gets to #2 on his list and I start to laugh and then sigh...
Anything to monitor after a timing belt "replacement"? I'm certain I did it wrong somehow all the lines shifted to the right 3-5 notches after rotating and I said fuck it and it starts, idles and drives better so idk I'll take it to a shop soon because I can't comprehend how to do a belt I guess but if it was done that wrong I don't know why it didn't have an immediate issue
Your subuaru channel is like the ONLY good one out there because you actually talk succinctly and don't ramble and you're not yelling at us or acting like a total hoonigan. I'm really enjoying this content
Eyyyy thank you 🙏🤝
I'll take quality springs and shocks over cheap Coilovers any day. I love how the Bilstein's with the Swift springs feel and drive.
Fantastic set up 🔥
Bilstein and Eibach for me. Subaru put Bilstein on the S209.
I'm running Swift springs on OE replacement KYBs and it's absolutely gorgeous, still handles like a beast but maintains much of the comfort of the stock suspension
That just goes with the saying, you get what you pay for. I don’t even trust wheels that are $200 a wheel, I’d feel like I’m driving on cardboard.
Same, I’m running bilstein b12’s with H&R springs. Ride quality is very close, maybe even better than stock, but feel way better in corners. Coil overs are nice if you’re tracking your car and need to be able to make adjustments for track conditions but usually overkill for daily drivers especially if you don’t know how to dial them in (which I don’t think most people do lol). Also, I used to run coil overs on my last car and during the winter the perch ring threads would get loaded up with salt and debris and became an absolute mess. Spring/shock set up is much easier to maintain imo
I'm so glad I found your channel when I started modding my wrx. Watching your setups and recommendations compared to using my friends advice ( he blew threw two motors in his sti) has helped me pick the right parts and is the reason why my car runs so good
Glaf to hear that the videos have helped and hopefully your buddy doesn't blow up anymore engines 😬
This is completely true. Before I had the money to get an Etune I was running Cobb catted dp with a k&n intake and the car ran horrible and had so many issues that I couldn't figure out but once i went and got the tune all of those problems went way and the car runs phenomenal now. Love the vids man.
Glad to hear things got cleaned up after the tune 🥳
Etune without an accessport or is that even possible I'm have a hard time finding an for with this one
Excellent list and couldn’t agree more.
Might I add ‘track focused mods’? Many car enthusiasts don’t seem to understand that a car set up for the track, will be a very poor daily driver street car. Examples would be track brake pads (which are generally noisy and require heating up before braking properly), solid mounts and metal bushings (which you touched on already), brake bias controllers and semi-slick tires (if you see any rain during the year).
Ohhhh love this idea for a video! 🔥 totally agree, track built cars that are still street legal aren't always a good idea 😅
This is well thought out and delivered in a good way. Getting your car tuned properly for any mod is HUGE!! You can do exhaust all day and not worry, but if you touch ANYTHING on the intake side you need a tune. I would add do not get an etune if you have replaced anything. I had an appointment at fathouse fab for a dyno tune before I replaced part one. Of course part one was $6k in parts and had my check engine light on all the way there, but the drive home was fabulous!
Spent $900 on D2 coils for my BMW they are stiff, however, I’ve had them on for over 3 years and had no issues. They are middle of the road comfort could be better but I’m pleased with how they have preformed
D2 is a great middle group company, buddy has him in his Evo X. Definitely not bad for the price 🔥
One thing to add is polyurethane shifter bushings. I bought the Kartboy short shifter kit with those bushings and now I’m getting noticeable NVH through my shifter 😭
Agree completely with everything on the list. Especially the tuning, I ran ots stage 1 with a catback for 7-8 years and over 100,000km between two different wrx's, and never had a single issue. The most important thing is, I'll say it louder for the kids in the back, HAVING THE RIGHT PARTS FOR THE TUNE!!! Lol.
Side question because I keep getting distracted by it, but are you planning on sealing the headlight/inlet? I keep meaning to ask but always forget by the time I'm done watching the video
No I don't, I've got another headlight set on the way. So this one will just be used for racing or shows 🙏
LOVE LOVE LOVE these discussion videos! Please do a DEEP DIVE video on suspension / handling upgrades. I have almost all of the Whiteline suspension parts + BC coils on my car, and addicted to the grip! I would love a video on levels of suspension upgrades, whether (and what kind of...) chassis bracing is worth it, and what is / is not worth the $ for suspension parts.
PS... I'm the white SF5 Forester you smashed on the last live stream! I promise to take better photo next time so you don't have to hum/haw about the smash lol
Downnnnn I can make that happen 🔥
Also jelly of that fozzy 🥵
Yes please do this!!! I am building a 14 wrx and don’t car much for any power over 300 whp but would love for a sweet video from you on suspension upgrades so I can tear up the canyons here in Utah!
Current set up:
JDM 4/2 pots with braided lines, and BMC brace (trying to source an STI BMC if you think it’s worthwhile)
BC Coilovers
Whiteline sway bars + endlinks (switching to GNP end links soon)
Roll centre kit + anti lift (caster) kit
STi carbon Front / WL rear strut tower bars
She’s a daily so open to suggestion on keeping stock bushing, or which to replace.
Also looking for advice on whether (or WHEN) lower control arms / trailing arms are worth the expense.
I have a set of STI aluminum control arms ready to install but want to finalize my suspension set up because that will be alignment # 3 since I keep upgrading the suspension set up :)
Working on a 2.5L RS-Ti street + track weapon build next, so I’d love to hear recommendation on daily v track day suspension upgrades.
Fozzy bear (my SF5) is a 2000 JDM Forester St/B. OEM+ theme inside and out. Apart from the turbo back and suspension, all OEM+
STI Type MII interior (full black/on/black), V1 STI front seats, V9 STi wheel, STI TMIC, gold BBS wheels (summer), forged pro drive wheels (winter). Just missing the SF5 STI rear seats and e-brake handle to finish the STI interior.
OEM drivetrain since I cannot open source tune the OEM ECU… so big sad, and hence the RS build next
Subscriber PHIL from the Okanagan BC!
you have the front and rear white line sway bars and end links? I have them on my list and you seem to love them haha
Gotta give a big shout out I order a hoodie for my wife for the first engine giveaway but it unfortunately arrived with a big burn from the printer. But not the point my wife messages and was immediately taken care of with a replacement on the way so if you're even the slightest worried about buying his merchandise just know he stands behind it and makes sure everyone is happy. Thank you tanner for helping her and it's awesome to see the channel and blubaru growing.
Anytime! New order is in and should be printed in the next few days 🥳
But Tanner, I put an intake, downpipe, and blowoff valve on my 16 sti on an OTS tune and it ran great! Then I cracked 2 pistons because I leaned out from my blowoff valve leaking and ended up costing me thousands. Now I'm in the process of doing it correctly so it never happens again. Learned the hard way but I learned!
Your not alone my friend 😭😭😭
Wouldnt that richen fuel? Not lean.. As the motor is losing air post maf. meaning it thinks its getting more air then it is thus adding more fuel. Least in boost. It leans the idle with air leaks as your losing vacuum.
@@ogfromutube9649 yeah, my car ran really rich in boost and really lean on idle and at slow speeds. I assume thats what caused my pistons to get hot and when i sent it with too much boost it caused cylinders 2 and 4 ringland failures and cylinder 4 to have a few small cracks around the top of the piston
@@rudecanadian9916 ouch... I ran my aem x series wideband into stock ecu. Since it has much faster response on short term fuel trims. One time maf was dirty i noticed afr was staying in 14s under wot so immediately let off. This is why wideband arer so important on higher then stock power levels and even stock. Modern volvo uses wideband from the factory. Also have my ecu tuned to flash engine light when knock/detonation is detected. Not super sensitivie tho. If more then 2 knocks deteced in a 1 second interval it triggers and i know to let off. Or if water meth isnt triggering. Also have low windshield washer fluid light on gauge wired into methanol resevoir. Stock ecu had a 3 bar map soldered in as well as stores 2 maps that i can switch on the fly. However i did not setup safeguards to auto switch maps on knock. The main difference between the 2 maps is ignition timing. Nor do i have flex fuel sensor for fuel quality. But we have no e85 here. So i use vp racing octanium with 93 super and am able to run 39* of timing advance. My ecu also had no way to control vvt cams. So we repurposed the rear o2 preheater wires to power the vvt solenoids at certain rpm/load points as the rear o2 is disabled and am running catless downpipe. Lots of stuff you can do to save your engine. Im running 23psi on a 50mm with stock internals just wont ramp in boost til over 3k to avoid bending rods. Also my 5cyl 20v is 8.5:1 cr. Headgaskets arent really a concern until much bigger turbos. The 2.3 with 83mm bore has thick cylinder walls so cracking is less prone then the 2.5 engines with 9.5:1 cr.
@@rudecanadian9916 same thing here, put a bov on when I was in highschool bc it “sounded cool” and don’t get me wrong, it sounded awesome, but I was losing SO MUCH AIR. It was dying at idle. It had some really nice pops and bangs as well, thankfully some other minor parts went out before any real damage was done and that scared me into going back to no bov. Could’ve been much worse. Not a very smart decision😂
Currently laying on the couch with a sore mouth and hating every second of it but the whole “Luther the Armadillo” thing was funny and made me feel better. I love the random tangents. Thanks for temporarily making me forget about the pain.
Glad I could be of assistance and hope ya feel better soon!
Great list - I think another important thing to note about OTS maps and why I ALWAYS recommend a Pro tune or at the very least an E Tune is that not only are OTS maps a generic tune for the specific parts they are meant for (like Cobb) but every environment is different. An OTS map in a place way above sea level won’t perform the same as in a place below sea level. But a pro tune done in both of those places respectively will be fine tuned for those conditions
Big facts, always suggest eyunes and protunes. But for those who do run ots for long term. They gotta stick to thr map notes
Ive had my Raceland Primo coilovers on my 11 WRX for about two months now and they are phenominal so far, only oddity is shock noise on the fronts. Ride quality is pretty good and they're 15-way adjustable. Only thing left to see is longevity.
as a 32 year old who joined NASIOC in 2006 when I bought my first car (97 Impreza L) and read literally every bit of info I possibly could between then and now going down that subaru obsession rabbit hole, I agree with every single point you made.
NASIOC is a place full of wonders both good and bad 😅🔥
@@Smeedia 16 years of experience really helps you know who and what to trust on there. ;) stick to the nerdy side and you'll probably be okay.
Tanner what about bypass valves on FA20? Does the same thing go? Is it a big no if I’m not getting it tuned cause I already had it time a year ago?
Bypass valves are safe 🤙
Just traded up to a 2021 STI from a 2020 WRX Premium with stage 2+. I 💯% agree with tuning!!! Tune for everything and try to stick with the same manufacturer. I went Grimmspeed everything engine wise with a Tomei cat-back and BrenTune 93shell map and loved it. Daily driven. No issues. Keep up the great content bro!!!!
Glad to hear it has been treating you 🥳🥳
I would add a few more things. It drives me crazy when I see dangerous mods added just to look cool. Aftermarket steering wheel. I’d rather have an airbag. 6point roll cage on the street? Super dangerous with no helmet.
100% 🙏
everyone who has an aftermarket steering wheel understands that it doesn't come with an airbag and they don't care. the video is about mods that result it negatives that aren't very obvious before you install them. hindsight 2020
@@paolo1334 uh oh. Paolo just realized his momo won’t save his life in a crash and feels personally attacked. Stay safe!
@@nickormiston8411 well if you have an older GD chassis you get a Momo from the factory 👍
@@nickormiston8411 I don't have an aftermarket wheel lol. Stop being pretentious
I had a crosstrek because I hike a lot and spend some time in the mountains. I trade it for a WRX and now I’m wondering if there is such thing as coil overs with air suspension so I can bring it up if I’m somewhere that I need more height?
Local cat from Renton here! Another great vid bro! Ive never broke any of these mod guidelines myself, but one of your vids a while back talked me out of a 50/50 B.O.V. ...So I installed a cobb sf intake with their "airbox" and I hear all the bypass valve i need and am loving it on my pro-tuned cobb stage 2.5 2004 wrx wagon daily driver.
A mod I say to avoid is EBAY headlights... spec-D or anything like that. They "might" look cool in daytime but at night the light output and beam pattern are SHIT and unsafe at best
Ohhhhh EBAY headlights are always bad, they leak, have a terrible light pattern
I man'd up and got a retrofit from circuit demon. So badass
Finding wheels that clear my STi hatch front brembos without a spacer is a frigging mission
I feel this 😤
My car came stock with 16s which do not clear calipers on 13" rotors. My spare is rear only lol. If i get a front flat i have to swap it with a rear and put spare on the back. Guess i shouldve bought 5 rims...
its the fucking struggle
Lenso spec e wheels fit perfect 👌👍
Tuning n00b here. How long can you go without a pro/dyno tune once you've added bolt on mods to your car? For example, say you've get an intake, AOS, BPV and catted J pipe but can't get an appointment with your pro tuner for a week or more and there isn't an OTS map for your particular mix of parts. Should you wait to install until just before your tune date, or can you get buy for a while? Also, most dyno shops want everything to be as perfect as possible before you show up; if you've just built everything, how do you ensure it will pass their pre-run inspection?
100% agree with everything on this list I have one more huuuuge thing:
1.) If you decide to do a full "build" be brutally honest with yourself and set REALISTIC power goals. Nothing comes without a compromise. For example choose clearances that match how the car will be used. You may find yourself stuck with a noisy, piston slappy car that may be capable of big power, but it won't be a car you want to drive to work everyday.
100% on this! This gets over looked so often!
Solid info. A few other mods that can ruin your daily driver are cheap cast wheels that crack and fall apart (any size cheap rims will do this), cheap brakes and cheap brake rotors, cheap exhaust systems, and cheap ebay turbos. Every one of those listed I've seen end up bad.
Cheap ebay turbos are a big one
I will never understand the idea that a daily should have any of these mods. I figured it out on my own about 20 years ago. If I can afford to pump all this money into a car I love to increase it's performance, I can afford to have a really cheap decent car to daily. What this video doesn't even touch on is the environmental damage done to a car that driven in rain/snow. Moisture destroys the parts under a car. Dirt holds moisture against surfaces longer, and road salt/brine does that while also drastically accelerating corrosion.
Also all good facts to tackle in, especially in salty states during the winter time
Thoughts on shimmed or aftermarket diffs ? Got some , drifts insane but super super tight at low speeds . What’s your experience or thoughts on em ? I bought car off a really really reputable Subaru shop worker was basically built for the track but it’s a immaculate road car
Can you do the maintenance intervals again but this time for running e85? And having a built block?
I can make that happen 🔥
@@Smeedia you da best
Hi, I want tu buy an STI from 2015-2020, which one is the best one ? What it has and what it does not that makes it the best?
Get a 2019-2021, they come with thr type RA short blocks. They hold some good powah
Great informative video! I'd like to make a suggestion, if you don't mind. When making a video involving a list, can you either put time stamps in the description, or have an indicator on the screen as to which number of the list you are on? For example, if I already know solid mounts are a bad idea on a daily, I'd like to skip ahead to the other items of the list but don't have any way of knowing where to skip to, so it's a guessing game as I skip 10 seconds ahead over and over until I hear you talk about something else, and I might miss something that I wanted to hear. Otherwise, really enjoyed the video!
Yes I can 🥳 appreciate the feedback on it too! Always open to making changes or improvements to make the videos better.
The lightweight crank is super dependent on the style of engine you have, like inline 4s will kill themselves with one, but an i6 will be perfectly fine. I remember reading somewhere that the older ejs dont even have a harmonic balancer because the boxer cycle of the engine is supposed to be self balancing
Definitely engine depending, would still use a damper over a light weight pulley personally
@@Smeedia for sure, the difference between an OEM pulley set and a lightweight/underdrive pulley set is minimal at best, and the $200 or so and time spent replacing them could easily be put into something like braided steel brake lines or lightweight flywheel that will drastically increase performance
Yeah, the idea is balance. I know that longer living and higher revving rotaries get the rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley to ensure minimum front to back forces. A lightweight flywheel will throw off crank balance just as much as a lightweight pulley.
What real benefit does light crank pulley provide that a light flywheel does not?? Lightening the mass of the rotating assembly..
@@foxunfocused idk im running a ttv 11lbs chrome moly single mass flywheel as it was pinned for a better heavier sachs 707 pressure plate. Little harder to rev match and harder on the calf muscle. But once used to it, it shaves about .2 off 1/4 mile.
And has less drop during shifts. Also impossible to slip even 4th gear 3500rpm launches.
Like Subaru volvo also has ton of rev hang but its supposed to.
Totally agree on the bov!! I put upgraded diverter valve with a stainless tube inlet and open filter.. Still sounds amazing and no unaccounted for unmetered air..
The ecu assumes that air is being recirced on throttle lift. Which is how you get rich spikes on shifts. And more drop in boost during shifts as well.
Mines custom tuned and even my tuner said DO NOT use a bov... Heavier spring and silicone diaphragm is all you need for higher then stock psi...
A good intake and inket sound so nice 🔥
05 wrx bone stock 1 owner car 166k miles wasn't abused too bad did leak down test all healthy I've done a full tune up on it ik I'm going to need an aos what would be a good mod list for a fun daily
Man I know you’re crazy busy but I’m in the process of doing a rebuild with an OEM shortblock and would like to ask you a few questions. I do have the service manual.
- Rocker arm sequence. 2015 wrx, they all fell when I first pulled the cam carrier. Labeled 1 and 2. Cannot find anything anywhere on them as far as a reference to what the numbers mean. Closest thing I believe I found was someone saying wear pattern is why they need to go back where they came off of.
- LW Crank Pulley. You explained it in the video, however, I only ask I need to replace the OEM. OEM is $120 or so, same price as an aftermarket. Car is FBO on E60 401 whp. If oem is the way to go and it’s not worth explaining - I completely understand.
- creating gaskets. Is there a way to verify or check if it’s sealed right aside from a start up? Or a method I can do at home?
Thanks. Love the content.
What do you think of a pitch stop mount addon on a VA WRX?
mk7.5 TSi Golf here (1.8t)
OTS APR Stage1 tune
no engine hardware modifications required
BUT
I insalled a proper front mount from CTSTurbo, a turbosmart full recirculating diverter valve and a neuspeed intake
as well as a stage2 southbend clutch, a "turbo muffler delete"
+ second cat AND Muffler delete (kept OEM resonator)
with that setup I KNOW I am not at full potential and that a proper tune would make more power.... but that's the thing, I don't want more ! I just want my IATs to be low and my Diverter valve NOT to stick as the OEM does +.. a clutch is never a bad idea....
there is some flaws in your reasonning,and while I agre with most of the things you said... some of us mod our car to be faster.....but not...rocket ships !
Also depends on the ECU and car. Some ECUs are nit capable of making suitable adjustments without tunes. VW ECUs have fantastic self learning properties. Each application and car will vary though 🤙
I’m running cobb stage 1+ ots tune you think I’m I will be ok if installed GS inlet Or u recommend tune it ?
Is there a way to send you a pic of my 17 sti. Rear camber seems to much just trying to figure out is this is normal. My 08 hatch sti did not have this issue. I’m getting some Cusco upper arms for rear to fix but I’m just curious there’s been no rear damage to the car except for my wife back into it one day.
Instagram 🙏 sane as my YT name
I had put polyurethane mounts on my Mustang ages ago, and all I did was make the car shake like crazy, and it actually cracked my bellhousing. I can't imagine metal to metal.
It cracked it?! 😳
@@Smeedia yup, cracked about a 10 inch gash on the left hand side, it took about 4 months to do that though. Had to replace the bellhousing and ended up putting stock mounts back on the car. It was (and is) a shaky V8 though)
100% agree with all of these. From personal experience as well. For example, the BOV. Mine was even a hybrid and had a massive leak, and I didn’t even know until I got a retune. On that, making sure you know what kind of tune you need in conjunction with the parts you had lol I was on a catless tune with that hybrid BOV leak for like a year lol
How well was the car running with the leaks?👀
But why did the bit about NASIOC get me to literally laugh out loud 😂😂😂
And then “I can put whatever parts I want on my car” 😹😹 of course you need a tune
It resonates with all of us 😅😅😅
Kind of a late question but ive seen a lot of debate regarding tuning for a fully recirculating bypass valve. If youre running bone stock on sti can you use it without a tune? I know blowoff is kind of pointless for a stock motor and you absolutely should tune but the only answer i seem to find on forums is "just keep the stock one bro" or i use a 50/50 or 60/40 and its fine.
As an ASE certified tech, who's been through all of this (and as an Evo X owner, which also uses a MAF sensor setup). On a stock setup, with a MAF setup, use a bypass valve (BPV), not a blow-off valve (BOV). Especially, if you don't have any supporting mods or tuning. I'm at 500 whp & still use a BPV (I'm not tuned for speed-density - i.e. no MAF sensor). You will not see any gains by tossing a BOV on a stock setup. As he mentioned in this video, installing a quality air-intake will amplify that "pffftt" blow-off sound that you're most likely looking for. Adding an upgraded BPV (Cobb), with an intake, will further enhance the sound.
Saving for STI but I have 2011 Subaru Impreza and wondering what I should do to make it louder, hard to find parts for this model
Is it still stock exhaust?
Just a pro tune made my car run more healthy and more powerful. And now I won't be installing the lightweight crank pulley my friend gave me.(I think ik why he gave it to me now) edit: smeedia is so cool, he hearted my comment like 6 months after he posted the video❤
Luther the Armadillo sounds like a type of improved explosive device.
Gotta watch out for Luther 😳
Love this video!! Easy to understand information with personality.
FF3 Balancor and Luther the armadillo had me rolling!!😂
I put Swift springs on my bugeye wagon and the ride is great but it looks way too high. Most people assume it’s stock ride height. I got the Swift springs because I always thought BC coilovers were bad quality but I guess that’s not true. Deciding if I should just switch to BC Racing and deal with the harsher ride. I can’t justify putting air ride on that old car at this point.
I've used BC for a long time and never really had any issues with them. Have a set on the EVO and had a set on the 05 STI 🔥
@@Smeedia I appreciate your advice. Maybe I’ll switch to coilovers because right now I think you’d pass rather than smash if you saw my car.
people screw up by trying to go full race car on their street car. i went with all group N bushings, engine, top hats, all suspension bushings. STi brand lowering springs on Tokico D spec struts.
When you go full race car on a daily it completely ruins the car. Made that mistake with thr 05 STI. Fantastic car but as a daily I 200% killed it
Help me!!! I just found out my engine coolant was in low meter. Idk if there's a leak yet. But was wondering if i should let dealership check up on it if theres a leak or just filled the coolant. I appreciate the help!
I would top it off and monitor it, if it happens again then I'd start investigating
Hey man, I liked the video. I think something you could add, and im not going through all the comments and what not to see other suggestions, but my sti, I tried to do things that were just like.... weight reduction. I thought no tune needed, I could handle it etc. 2 piece rotors, carbon fiber driveshaft, and light weight flywheel. lots of rotating mass reductions, that you wouldn't think would mess anything up, but they added up. I had driven only manual for about 10 years at that point and when descriptions of clutches say about track use only, they mean it. I killed my car a few times breaking it in, pretty embarrassing. I wont lie, once I figured it out it was very quick, but it was hard to nail down constantly. I did snap motor mounts, and went solid, and I agree with what you said (tho i like the sound and feel) I would argue motor mounts on the list, before clutches and flywheels that are arguably more "upsold", should be added to your list at the very least.
What about external waste gates for a daily? I have FA20 wrx I guess stage 3 no flex fuel, wanting to add flex and external waste gates with killer b header but not sure if the external waste gates will be liveable
For thr most part that's fine, they're nit crazy loud or annoying to live with 🙏
can confirm - the stock BPV with the cob intake sound incredible. it's not quite as loud of a "psh" noise but its still pretty sick. 10/10 would recommend
They sound great 🔥
Which intake exactly? Don’t they have 2? If I’m wrong then sorry haha
@@blakedavis1665 I have the Cobb SF intake + air box. I know they offer some overpriced carbon one or something but I doubt it sounds better. Looks nice though!
@@Telesko awesome thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2020 wrx and just have a Cobb catted turbo back exhaust and my accessport so it’s nice to hear good things about Cobbs intake
got my 2013 PBP wrx wagon in nov last year finally did timing belt/throttlebody/radiator hoses, throttlebody hose/trans, rear diff flud/oil, filters, stock air filter/ and some stuff for suspension. feeling like a new car! can't wait to go cobb stage 2 with an ets cat back. ill be sure to get E-Tuned!
Yesssss going to sound good!
What's your thoughts on hybrid blow off valves while still running only MAF sensor but dyno tuned?
Most of them leak, but if they're set to 70/30 they can be alight
Im actually running solid mounts on my daily driver 05 Legacy GT. MSI solid engine mounts. Aluminati solid transmission mount. Currently running an agency power pitchstop with whiteline crossmember bushings. But i still feel the car isnt solid enough for my liking so i might throw in the aluminati solid pitchstop with the solid crossmember bushings. Personally the NVH does not bother me that much. (does occasionally on long drives) but for the majority of the time i can put up with it. But the feeling of solid mounts is unbeatable. You feel so connected to the car. I would recommend it for people who can put up with NVH!
Definitely solid mods if your someone who doesn't mind all the NVH 🔥
The coilovers on my mk5 gti were about $800 (in 2010) and have over 100k miles on them now and are still near perfect you don't have to spend much more for reliability just don't go for the absolute cheapest $200 no name special.
Facts 🔥
I had good luck with KYB coilovers on my old 05 STi. In 2012 they were around $800-$900.
is there a way to convert to speed density with a factory top mount? im tuned for the bov on my car but through the maf. and only an etune
Yes but there is really no point in doing so. For a DD your better off using a MAF
Wait, but I was so happy when you said in another vid that it's ok to get a light weight crank pulley for a daily car that hasn't been heavily modded? And now I want one lol. Little co fused though.
I would love If you made a vid specifically to detail a few bang for buch things you can do to bump up your daily driver's power. I have a long highway commute with my 13 Impreza sport and was surpirsed by the difference when I got a k&n drop in filter and removed the pzev filter. I had to reset the ecu for it.
I don't need a turbo, just want to know what's good. Would a straight thru muffler, CAI, highflow cat, headers, and maybe fuel inctors and throttle body make a nice little difference? And which of those would make the most difference?
Thanks!
New fan
What is the largest size tire that can fit on these cars, more specifically the 2019+. And what size tire looks the best? I hate the skinny tire look on cars and I'm planning on getting a sti in the next few weeks.
275/35/18 can fit
For 19s I'd probably stick with a 265
I kept my stock springs and added Koni yellows on my 13 WRX which gave enough drop for a four season car. Not easy finding springs still in production for my car.
RCE yellows are another solid one 🔥
Would it be safe to run the grimmspeed bypass valve with a down pipe and temporary delicious ots tune while I wait for my catback
What are the parts the map notes say to use? 👀
This actually had useful information in it, and didn't default to common answers.
Though, I would like to add: Bigger turbos (not just slightly), FMIC (on WRX hatches in cold areas) and turbo blankets.
Subies already lack in low-end torque to begin with, so having a significantly bigger turbo will make it annoying in stop-and-go traffic. As for turbo blankets, they're a major fire hazard, as they're a perfect wick whenever oil gets on them. Lastly, front-mount intercoolers are fine on most Subies, except for daily driven hatches in cold weather. This is pretty niche, but it's also incredibly annoying to deal with. To install a FMIC, you need to relocate your battery into the hatch. Except, there's no mechanical backup for the hatch, so if your battery ever drains, you're nearly screwed. You have to climb through the interior (between the front seats if the rears are locked), manage to fold down the seats while you're cramped in there, get into the back and pop off a little plastic cover to even access the hatch release. And that's not even including the possibility of battery acid leaking into the interior (you should have a box, but battery acid causes rust and the fumes are highly toxic).
Hey man, ive got a 2015 sti. Im new to tuning/performance...new to cars in general honestly because ive only really been into them since i got my car a year ago.....
Anyway, thinking of getting the stage 1 package from cobb for my sti. Comes with the accessport and intake. Im wondering if youre able to give any insight to the ots tune. Is it safe to run if the intake is all i add to the car, or is it gonna make my car unreliable?
You will be safe to run it and shouldent have any issues with reliability 🙏🙏🙏
I bought a ‘19 wrx cvt in October and just recently threw a Cobb stage 1 tune. I have a nameless muffler delete but other than that I plan on just tossing the Cobb Intake for the stage 1+ tune and leaving it be after I get an Invidia r400 for it
Not a bad set up 🔥😁
@@Smeedia now I want to be sure, in terms of reliability, the muffler delete shouldn’t affect the behavior of the car too much right? With the Cobb stage 1+ Intake and tune it shouldn’t be anything unpredictable. I get my oil changed every 3000-3500 miles depending on when I get the time. I do drive 100 miles a day in the car. Looking to add a liiiiiittle more power but keep it as a fun daily. Any recommendations other than the trans cooler (already looking at those)
Just trying to mod it a bit but not too much to where I start having issues while running the car
No, a muffler delete will have no impact on it 🙏 sounds like you've already got it sorted. Just the basics for reliability like an AOS and your set
@@Smeedia thanks man, love the vids btw. Funny to hear you point out faults I’ve had buddies do on their cars. Not even mentioning subies lol. They’re temperamental but really fun cars and of course…the rumble 🤤
What about 70A poly mounts? I'm leaning towards M3 OEM rubber mounts for the engine and I'm changing the shifter detents and switching from dual mass to a single mass flywheel and I'm installing a double sheer selector rod. Should I go with M3 transmission mounts or 70A poly?
70A is not too bad. My trans mount is 70A and gives some whine and some vibration but not too bad for daily driving.
Swapping out that dual mass is going to feel so much better. Absolutely hated the one in my Golf R.
@@Smeedia Thanks for the feedback!
13:30 OTS Maps are just temporal
If plans are to reach certain hardware: full exhaust, bigger turbo, FMIC, Freektune, etc... these, at least in my case, were achieved 5 years after buying the car... I even planned the whole thing before buying the car.
So I installed the Intake, then bigger TMIC (in my case), better recycling valve... and used the first OTS map (Stage 1), then added the rest and kept climbing... specially the new fuel pump.
The plan was not to use the OST, but to keep going until I could get a real tune from professionals or go to a dyno
Once I did it was happiness... slow, perhaps, but I am a woman and geez installing the exhaust and specially the DP was hell and I had to ask for help
I installed Ruthenium plugs and didn't tune for the extra ignitability. First time I really opened it up, it fired too early and cracked a cylinder sleeve. Simple shit like a different material plug even needs a tune.
WRXs are only MAF tunable right? I’ve seen speed density kits for STIs, but last I looked nothing for FA20s.
And agree with keeping the BPV. I bought the Turbosmart smartport BPV/BOV hybrid and tried venting to ATM and it would kill my car. Took the vent off and plugged it to be full BPV and still ran terrible but wouldn’t kill the car. Ended up putting the stock one back and and ran fine lol🤷🏻♂️
They're also SD tunable, seen a few of them. 🙏
@@Smeedia I just looked and couldn’t really find any kits for 2015+. You know of a kit?
I belive IBR and visconti tuning have kits
I’m one at fault for the out the atmosphere blow off valve and regret it later. Just to sound good isn’t going to beat engineering ingenuity.
Do you need a tune for a cat back or an axle back exhaust?
No🙏
Is the gfb hybrid blow off ok as it’s 50/50 some nosiness and some recert
Personally all the ones I've ever had have leaked, if you going to run one I'd do 70/30
I had 275 rears on stock. Decided to put 305s just for more grip. Only thing is if I go bigger to 315 maybe 325 I would need wide body.
Need to replace my original harmonic balancer and you saved me from getting a lightweight one and I appreciate it.
Glad I could be of service my friend 🙏🙏🙏
how do you feel about tgv delete on a daily / project car?
Shouldent cause any issues as long as it's tuned, unless you live in a strict EPA State
💯 with the BOV.
I got a Cobb intake and Cobb LF BPV on my 2016 wrx. (Ets 4in fmic)
And it sounds amazing. So loud. All the perks of a BOV, but completely functional and safe for the motor.
Yessssss 🔥🔥🔥
Agree with everything.
Solid mounts, eh, personal preference and I actually enjoy them.
Didn’t mention hybrid bov/ bpv. They too are no bueno, especially open to atmosphere even a little bit, and tend to have a higher probability of leaks. STI I bought had one, I immediately put a factory one back on.
The wrong size wheels in regards to the offset was a great topic. Tire poke is extremely unsafe. Hit a a bad bump and bottom out on the fender and it's probable you are going to loose control and wreck.
Yep! I watched this happen to a Civic (because of course, right?) directly in front of me on I-95. Car looked awesome, rolling low and wide over some really meaty fit, but we came to an area where the road was being graded down, and POW, he was on the shoulder. Like, full, catastrophic blowout of his tire.
I love poke, but you've gotta do it right. The top of the tire should still be able to clear your fender. Usually, stretched tires and cambered wheels so that you can tuck the top inside the fender. And it goes hand-in-hand with the cheapo suspensions. FFS people, if you're gonna lower your car, or go with crazy setups, make sure you know where it will bottom out. Properly adjust your damping. People cut 2" out of the stock spring to slam their car over some funky fitment, and then wonder why the hell they keep shredding tires or chewing the fender.
Hey man maybe you know. I have a 21 wrx and I’m having a p0420 issue. This all happened after I gotten a Cobb gesi catted j pipe. Is there a issue with these j pipes? Or is it my car lol. I cleaned my 02s already and the car only have 9k miles just curious on what your thoughts are
Odd, I've seen this happen more than once with these Jpipes. I'd try resetting ecu learning if you haven't already done so 🤔
What do you think about used BC coilover for 10k milage?
Cleam em and send it 🔥
@@Smeedia sound good, thank you!
I swear everytime I debate on getting certain mods for my brz, you come out with videos like this one! love your content bro! 🙌
Well glad the videos have been helping my friend 🥳
Powerflex makes different durometer poly urethane mount bushings. Diff colors for diff stiffness. Even filled one using 3m window urethane before its about 20% stiffer then rubber.
Ohhhhh I like how they color code them 🔥
Great video, first time I have seen your channel, definitely will check out the rest of your videos. Can't have too many guys like you trying to help the newbs and steer them away from "im gonna be so cool" decisions. Back in my day it was fart cans and cut springs, lol.
Lol I've been down that path 😅 figured I'd try and help people avoid some of the mistakes if possible 😅
That's not true actually when you're talking about the fiesta ST regarding the OTS map. Ran the car from 55k to 132k on OTS, BUT*** like he said you must ONLY run the parts on Cobb's website, but I also never raced it. Maybe a couple pulls but was a daily driver. Although, I'd never do that to a Subaru as they're more finicky
As long as the right parts are used with OTS, really shouldent have many issues. 🤙
@@Smeedia yes agreed and the thing is ford's aren't as particular as Subaru. I got my Subie protuned as soon as I could
I've been looking at a 2011 wrx hatch. 140k miles. It has a turbo smart BOV and an unknown brand catback exhaust. If I were to buy it, then take it to get properly tuned, would I be able to avoid a lot of problems in the future?
Yes a protune should helped. The catbaxk doesn't need a protune and tbh I'd probably just slap a stock bpv back on there 🔥🙏
@@Smeedia thank you!
Wait so youre saying, for example, 2012 sti with a cobb intake and cobb downpipe will be okay with the cobb ots tune for those parts?
As long as your using the appropriate Stage 2+ Map
are bcracing coils any good or no? specifically the br series. i see mixed opinions on them.
I've used them on plenty of cars without issue. For a daily driver imo they're worth thr money
Should I tune after installing a cold dry air intake on my 1.4 Jetta
"Cuz you want Greg and Jimmy over there in the yellow house to hear it" Lmao
I have poly (might as well be solid mounts) on my daily and it’s honestly not crazy bad. At first the vibration was really rough but once you get used to it it’s not too bad 👍🏻
That intro was so great and relatable!!
😁😁😁
Is there anything that would help with the road noise and make the wrx ride a little more comfortable ?
Just trying to quite it down a bit?
Thank you for this.. I am new to subi and trying to do this RIGHT . This video was extremely helpfull in my education!
Love that Pass side headlight looks like its got a ram air port.. where are they available?
Thanks again
Anytime 🥳 and I made that headlight, engine swapped my STI with a flat 6 and did a headlight mounted turbo 🙏
Hi, what are your thoughts on an hks ssq bov with recirc kit for an 2015 sti?
Cheers
They tend to leak a bit 🙏 I'd suggest the grimmspeed or cobb
Just bought my first wrx. This will be my first time putting mods on a car. All your videos have been helpful with what and what not to put on my car.
Congrats on the car and glad the videos help😁
The only benefit to an aftermarket harmonic balancer is a dedicated drag racing build or you need more ribs for a supercharger
Can we squeeze in a segment on spring rates for coilovers?
I'll see what I can whip up 🔥
I have a GFB blow off valve on my 05xt mainly because the previous owner blew the old engine in it up by putting too much boost through a stock engine,
my mod list is:
GFB blow off valve
BC racing coil overs
turbo back exhaust (xforce 3")
5x100 17x8 wheels rota grid r
engine swap of the same year as previous owner blew the engine
sti bonnet scoop
money is my main issue as i want to make my car look as nice as it can but it takes me about 6-12 months between mods but i love it too bits
(bov is 40% atmosphere vent for very cool pshh noises)
Definitely makes for some fun noises 🥳
So, here I am, juicing my morning wheatgrass, about to watch another excellent Tanner video about stuff I should not do to my car. I smile, confident in the knowledge that nothing on his list will pertain to me, as my stock AF 2015 STI - with the exception of a Mishimoto air intake- sits happily in my garage. I just had the 105,000 mile service done to the car and added 2 items I didn't think would affect my car at all; a COBB pitch mount brace and a lightened pulley. Tanner gets to #2 on his list and I start to laugh and then sigh...
Lol but how was the wheat grass 👀🔥
@@Smeedia it's an acquired taste. :)
Anything to monitor after a timing belt "replacement"? I'm certain I did it wrong somehow all the lines shifted to the right 3-5 notches after rotating and I said fuck it and it starts, idles and drives better so idk I'll take it to a shop soon because I can't comprehend how to do a belt I guess but if it was done that wrong I don't know why it didn't have an immediate issue
AVCS left and right. If they're more than like 3 degrees off from each other then something is off with timing
So happy you keep bringing up the OTS tunes. 👏some👏people👏still👏 won't 👏listen.
People going to do what people going to do 🤷♂️
@@Smeedia this will always be true too 😅