man was really looking forward to watching the whole process. im in the middle of putting the "intercooler pipe" system on and was going to use this as a peace of mind.
just did an egr delete the hard way ...lol.... had a doner fedral dmax and swaped the whole top end into a cali dmax *2002* heads and all , upgraded to ARP head studs etc but was fun
Thanks for the content.. This really helped with my research for my own personal endeavors for my 08 duramax! Between Rustbelt and truck masters and Ryan's yall are freakin awesome!!!! Thanks again!
Nice. I just did my up and down pipes a couple months ago and I had the same problem with the mbrp down pipe hitting, I’m not to happy with that. I’m trying to find one that clears so I don’t have to dent it to fit. There is plenty of room on the firewall side. If I can’t I’ll fab one up.
My truck has 200k and I cleaned my EGR a week ago and it looked like yours and mine never been cleaned before. The build up is super slow at least that's a good thing.
Is your passenger side up pipe pinched a little? They offer this setup for single turbo and compound/twin turbo. As far as I can tell the single turbo kit is slightly pinched on the passage side up pipe to clear the down pipe. Asking because I ordered the kit for compound turbo and I have only the stock single. Wondering if I need to send it back and get the one specific to single turbo.
Whoa! So what makes some trucks worse than others for EGR soot? I would never have guessed it had 100k.. I just took mine off at 260k and it didn’t look as bad. I recently did some vids on it. My truck was all bone stock with a K&N filter in the stock box and a tuner switch (unknown tunes) I know the first setting shuts off the hiss at idle until you rev it. But what makes some worse than others sir? Good video 👍🏼
Just curious..I've only dealt with gas turbo's aren't sure if diesels are the same. Can you change the up-pipe and exhaust without a tune...or does it require one like gas turbo's do? I'm wanting just to let the motor breathe easier not really looking for more power.
How did you go about bending the down pipe for clearance and how much was needed, I have read multiple accounts of the MBRP not working well with this kind of manifold
You have to loosen the trans dip stick and the down pipe goes up from the wheel well. I just did it a few weeks ago not a big, it was a massive pain getting everything undone because they have never been removed and to avoid breaking bolts it was painful.
@@dustinryan9671 Did that on my first MBRP with stock pipes. With the race style manifold the MBRP pipe would not seat into the turbo because it was hitting the bellows on the new up pipes. I had to put the down pipe in the vice and slight pinch it was told the same thing by the Duramax store. If you are using the PPR down pipe its not an issue
All things considered, if you did this very job over again, why not replace the stock cold pipe with aftermarket since the egr features were either disabled or deleted? Purely for cost savings?
At the time I was just waiting on getting the funds to get the right kit I wanted. The truck has evolved MASSIVELY since this video. Checkout the Duramax series in the playlist 👍🏻
@@RustbeltMechanic Definitely, I started following your channel after seeing TruckMaster and you dive into a couple projects. I've seen the progress and it's awesome. I'm in the similar situation with my LMM.
I have the same set up but I am putting in a new turbo, the BD Duramax Screamer. The faulty turbo is what caused all this additional upgrades to happen at once ! Cannot take the money with you ! LOL I will probably need to do some additional tuning because of the new turbo .
I had my downpipe done awhile ago and I had tunes before that. I got real good tunes and then just last week I did my manifolds and up pipes and I really enjoy the performance. The turbo does in fact spool up quicker. Maybe not noticeable for some but it was for mine. Next is the built transmission.
You want stock better spool and boost- shut off your traction control and keep holding the button down to see if it shuts of stability management-- this will change your world I have a heavy modded Dmax but for your average guy-- try this and then go drive it-- game changer!!!
Hey bud really like this video. I to like dealing with the little guys. Aside from the occasional savings you usually get a little better one on one customer experience. I know I'm late on this video but I follow you, Truck Master and a few other guys to get ideas for my bone stock 06 LLY/LBZ. You mentioned you got a tune before adding some of these mods. Thought it's best to do tuning after mods are added?
It was literally just 12 hours before I did the parts swap when I had the tune done and no it’s not that big of a deal. As far as the parts go you’ll have to do some big digging due to the recent emissions scares by the govt. A lot of manufacturers are taking down these “delete kit” parts really fast.
@@RustbeltMechanic thanks for replying and the feedback. I've noticed that. Most of the common sites no longer have these parts available. If you know of and can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
Guys! I have been in the Dirty Max scene a long long time since 2000, dirty little secret that almost no one, not even " race shops know" if your Dirty max has a traction control button on the center of dash.... it also has stability management equipped devices . No tuner can bypass these except a an EFI tune iv seen once.. Once folks... I run an H& S Mighty Max with off-road- race tune- all deleted and with modded trans for towing... Now that being said If you own any GM vehicle with a traction control button... you must must must hold down the button until your dash displays trac control off,,, then keep holding said button down for about another 15 seconds. now Stabil track will be displayed as off... Now go run the fuck out of your dirty max as god intended. how bout 4k RPM wide open throttle launches--- just rubber down the road BRAA!!! -- how bout no more turbo spool issues---you hit the the petal these mothers will move out with Stabil track and traction off.. Do you want to really tear her up? Turn these 2 features off , then put your truck in 4WH. power break or line lock your truck until you get near 3k RPM , then let it rip don't -put it tow haul mode that also reduces performance for non "towing" applications... , dude the secret to everyone running a under 5 sec 0-60 time or 9 seconds to 100 MPH is shutting off traction control and stability management!! try it I promise you will very much like!!! IF you don't have a moderately modified trans and your other typical reliability goody upgrades... Open her up once or twice to see the potential. Then don't do it again-- you will germane your Allison --- Please also note 4WD boosted launches will snap your factory tie rods right off---! I did it once. LOL
I’ll have to look into that for the future, that won’t happen here because of how the down pipe flange was made, it wouldn’t fit at all...I had to slightly “massage” the down pipe for it to fit🤷♂️
@@RustbeltMechanic i had to make an extension bracket on my mbrp downpipe to bolt up to my ppe manifolds and uppipes because it wouldnt reach the support bracket
Clifton Cooper yes exactly, and drain your coolant ahead of time. Go ahead and remove the charge air pipe and radiator hose on that side to make things even easier.
why did you take out the grid heater yes you have glow plugs but any help starting is a plus when it gets so cold . also dont aim to sound like a butt here but myself i rather keep my diesel old school back before all this egr and computer crud give me a old school 12 valve and rock on
Honestly, I got it thrown in with the deal in the parts that I got, and later on this spring/summer I’ll be doing hi flow intake tubing etc that will delete that out anyways.
Grid heater doesn’t help on start up, it helps get the engine up to temp at idle faster. DHD makes egr delete that keeps it but really there’s no need for it as stated above it’s part of “new” emissions the older diesels had no issues without it even the LB7s
Like so many videos on upgrading manifolds up pipes down pipe and egr delete. No information given as to tuning for deleted egr. And nothing said about how the performance feels compared with stop exhaust. Otherwise a good information video
That XDP egr delete kit is no longer available which I'm going to assume do to the most recent emission scares. Found this one from Sinister Diesel, what you think? sinisterdiesel.com/i-15883459-sinister-diesel-egr-delete-kit-for-2006-2007-gm-duramax-6-6l-lbz.html
man was really looking forward to watching the whole process. im in the middle of putting the "intercooler pipe" system on and was going to use this as a peace of mind.
just did an egr delete the hard way ...lol.... had a doner fedral dmax and swaped the whole top end into a cali dmax *2002* heads and all , upgraded to ARP head studs etc but was fun
Love the Duramax Content..... Thank You Sir!!!
*DURAMAX is the BEST*
Thanks for the content.. This really helped with my research for my own personal endeavors for my 08 duramax! Between Rustbelt and truck masters and Ryan's yall are freakin awesome!!!! Thanks again!
Nice. I just did my up and down pipes a couple months ago and I had the same problem with the mbrp down pipe hitting, I’m not to happy with that. I’m trying to find one that clears so I don’t have to dent it to fit. There is plenty of room on the firewall side. If I can’t I’ll fab one up.
If u find one that works better let me know!
Rustbelt Mechanic will do
Just about to do mine soon as well and I already have the MBRP downpipe installed, that is disappointing!
Im 99% sure the PPE one fits perfectly. Plus it's 304 stainless
@@vincentboulet1833 just got one of those!
My truck has 200k and I cleaned my EGR a week ago and it looked like yours and mine never been cleaned before. The build up is super slow at least that's a good thing.
I can’t believe y’all looks to be squished the downpipe. I have the exact one and you don’t have to do anything but bolt it up
Is your passenger side up pipe pinched a little? They offer this setup for single turbo and compound/twin turbo. As far as I can tell the single turbo kit is slightly pinched on the passage side up pipe to clear the down pipe.
Asking because I ordered the kit for compound turbo and I have only the stock single. Wondering if I need to send it back and get the one specific to single turbo.
Whoa! So what makes some trucks worse than others for EGR soot?
I would never have guessed it had 100k.. I just took mine off at 260k and it didn’t look as bad. I recently did some vids on it.
My truck was all bone stock with a K&N filter in the stock box and a tuner switch (unknown tunes) I know the first setting shuts off the hiss at idle until you rev it.
But what makes some worse than others sir?
Good video 👍🏼
Just curious..I've only dealt with gas turbo's aren't sure if diesels are the same. Can you change the up-pipe and exhaust without a tune...or does it require one like gas turbo's do? I'm wanting just to let the motor breathe easier not really looking for more power.
Well kind of...the check engine light will be on if you delete out the egr stuff.
How did you go about bending the down pipe for clearance and how much was needed, I have read multiple accounts of the MBRP not working well with this kind of manifold
You have to loosen the trans dip stick and the down pipe goes up from the wheel well. I just did it a few weeks ago not a big, it was a massive pain getting everything undone because they have never been removed and to avoid breaking bolts it was painful.
@@dustinryan9671 Did that on my first MBRP with stock pipes. With the race style manifold the MBRP pipe would not seat into the turbo because it was hitting the bellows on the new up pipes. I had to put the down pipe in the vice and slight pinch it was told the same thing by the Duramax store. If you are using the PPR down pipe its not an issue
What torque did you use for the up pipe bolts, and did you use some ultra torque, locate, anti seize or dry install?
Use SDP intercooler tubes and Y bridge
All things considered, if you did this very job over again, why not replace the stock cold pipe with aftermarket since the egr features were either disabled or deleted? Purely for cost savings?
At the time I was just waiting on getting the funds to get the right kit I wanted. The truck has evolved MASSIVELY since this video. Checkout the Duramax series in the playlist 👍🏻
@@RustbeltMechanic
Definitely, I started following your channel after seeing TruckMaster and you dive into a couple projects. I've seen the progress and it's awesome. I'm in the similar situation with my LMM.
If I already have a tune and dsp5 switch, would adding high flow manifolds and up pipes require me to get retuned? stock trans
I’d say no they wouldn’t require a total retune, but later in the future they would be able to squeeze more out of it depending on other turbo mods.
I have the same set up but I am putting in a new turbo, the BD Duramax Screamer.
The faulty turbo is what caused all this additional upgrades to happen at once !
Cannot take the money with you ! LOL
I will probably need to do some additional tuning because of the new turbo .
You will enjoy the built trans!
I did it a couple years ago !
Expensive but well worth it!
I was getting tired of the trans limp mode !
Awesome informative video 👍 Thanks Lmm in Colorado 🤠
I've heard a lot of good things about this guy I have a lmm so I'm glad to see this
Thanks man🤘🏻
I didn't realize you are that close to me. I work in Cincinnati...
Good videos!!
How do you get rid of engine light when deleting the egr?
Good work dude, reminds me of doing mods on my own cars over the years 👍
Did this help increase spool up time or turbo responsiveness? I am wanting to do high flow manifolds on my truck and am wondering if it’s worth it.
Yes along with a proper tune this helped spool out a TON with that certain setup.
I had my downpipe done awhile ago and I had tunes before that. I got real good tunes and then just last week I did my manifolds and up pipes and I really enjoy the performance. The turbo does in fact spool up quicker. Maybe not noticeable for some but it was for mine. Next is the built transmission.
You want stock better spool and boost- shut off your traction control and keep holding the button down to see if it shuts of stability management-- this will change your world I have a heavy modded Dmax but for your average guy-- try this and then go drive it-- game changer!!!
Hey bud really like this video. I to like dealing with the little guys. Aside from the occasional savings you usually get a little better one on one customer experience.
I know I'm late on this video but I follow you, Truck Master and a few other guys to get ideas for my bone stock 06 LLY/LBZ. You mentioned you got a tune before adding some of these mods. Thought it's best to do tuning after mods are added?
Also, you have the part #'s for the egr delete and heat grid delete from XDP? Can't find the parts on thwir site. Thanks bud
It was literally just 12 hours before I did the parts swap when I had the tune done and no it’s not that big of a deal. As far as the parts go you’ll have to do some big digging due to the recent emissions scares by the govt. A lot of manufacturers are taking down these “delete kit” parts really fast.
@@RustbeltMechanic thanks for replying and the feedback. I've noticed that. Most of the common sites no longer have these parts available. If you know of and can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
Problem is: how do you find the little guys?
Guys! I have been in the Dirty Max scene a long long time since 2000, dirty little secret that almost no one, not even " race shops know" if your Dirty max has a traction control button on the center of dash.... it also has stability management equipped devices . No tuner can bypass these except a an EFI tune iv seen once.. Once folks... I run an H& S Mighty Max with off-road- race tune- all deleted and with modded trans for towing... Now that being said If you own any GM vehicle with a traction control button... you must must must hold down the button until your dash displays trac control off,,, then keep holding said button down for about another 15 seconds. now Stabil track will be displayed as off... Now go run the fuck out of your dirty max as god intended. how bout 4k RPM wide open throttle launches--- just rubber down the road BRAA!!! -- how bout no more turbo spool issues---you hit the the petal these mothers will move out with Stabil track and traction off.. Do you want to really tear her up? Turn these 2 features off , then put your truck in 4WH. power break or line lock your truck until you get near 3k RPM , then let it rip don't -put it tow haul mode that also reduces performance for non "towing" applications... , dude the secret to everyone running a under 5 sec 0-60 time or 9 seconds to 100 MPH is shutting off traction control and stability management!! try it I promise you will very much like!!! IF you don't have a moderately modified trans and your other typical reliability goody upgrades... Open her up once or twice to see the potential. Then don't do it again-- you will germane your Allison --- Please also note 4WD boosted launches will snap your factory tie rods right off---! I did it once. LOL
How would I find a small local Efi live tuner ?
You should get a downpipe support bracket or the down pipe will rub on the up pipe and potentially get a hole in it
I’ll have to look into that for the future, that won’t happen here because of how the down pipe flange was made, it wouldn’t fit at all...I had to slightly “massage” the down pipe for it to fit🤷♂️
@@RustbeltMechanic i had to make an extension bracket on my mbrp downpipe to bolt up to my ppe manifolds and uppipes because it wouldnt reach the support bracket
hey i live in Cincinnati i need egr delete. i got maxxforce Dt 466
Plz help ! If I do a manifold and up pipe , 3 inch down pipe and straight pipe 4” with a cold air intake do I need a tune ???
No you don’t HAVE to but to make full use of what parts you are installing then you should.
@@RustbeltMechanic thank you so much for your feedback back … that’s why I watch and support you appreciate it.
Big help. Thanks bro.
Good job sir!
Great video
How many 12 points did you snap on the up pipes
Thankfully none....clean Cali truck
Rustbelt Mechanic im about to do up and down pipes been spraying pb for a week lol
How much was you BDS set up cost you
I’m really not sure man, it was partially sponsored but I believe the whole setup would’ve been like 3-4K
What transmission cooler lines did you go with? I’m looking to replace mine due to I found a few worn spots.
They are Fleece performance trans cooler lines👍
Rustbelt Mechanic was it pretty straight forward like they say? I know you replace one fitting on the radiator at a time so you don’t drop the cooler.
Clifton Cooper yes exactly, and drain your coolant ahead of time. Go ahead and remove the charge air pipe and radiator hose on that side to make things even easier.
Rustbelt Mechanic sounds good! Thanks for the info brother! I’m ready to start working on a few things on my lbz.
Great job
oh i forgot 12mm 12point bolts ........ JUST PLAIN STUPID....ty GM
Ford uses them on drive line bolts too.
good work, who makes your ladder your using?
ProGear topside creeper
thanks man I've been looking for something that I dont have to stand on the number anymore
It’s a cheaper one from harbor freight I believe, but hey it holds my big ass!
thanks again man, found on Amazon. I'm about the same build as you working on my lifted 2500 Cummins and a bunch of buddies trucks
Love the video need more like it !!!!!!!!
Warmer weather is upon us, it’s Truck season!!
Reminds me why I don’t do diesel lol
I'm with you! lol
Love it!
why did you take out the grid heater yes you have glow plugs but any help starting is a plus when it gets so cold . also dont aim to sound like a butt here but myself i rather keep my diesel old school back before all this egr and computer crud give me a old school 12 valve and rock on
Honestly, I got it thrown in with the deal in the parts that I got, and later on this spring/summer I’ll be doing hi flow intake tubing etc that will delete that out anyways.
Grid heater doesn’t help on start up, it helps get the engine up to temp at idle faster. DHD makes egr delete that keeps it but really there’s no need for it as stated above it’s part of “new” emissions the older diesels had no issues without it even the LB7s
Like so many videos on upgrading manifolds up pipes down pipe and egr delete. No information given as to tuning for deleted egr. And nothing said about how the performance feels compared with stop exhaust. Otherwise a good information video
Sorry Eric... you’ll never see videos on tuning bc people working for “the man” are constantly watching these videos
man that is tight under the hood....reminds me of a 6.7 powerstroke engine bay. to much unnecessary junk chocking our diesels.
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS agreed! But once you take out some of the “unnecessary garbage” it’s not too bad;-)
Would have been way easier if you pulled the cab off
Agree at this point lol
So much crap on modern vehicles! It's crap like this that scares me away fro diesels, however, I do still want one!
Olde Carr Auto Guy they’re worth the work in the end!
get an lb7
That XDP egr delete kit is no longer available which I'm going to assume do to the most recent emission scares. Found this one from Sinister Diesel, what you think?
sinisterdiesel.com/i-15883459-sinister-diesel-egr-delete-kit-for-2006-2007-gm-duramax-6-6l-lbz.html
That’d work!
@@RustbeltMechanic thanks for your feedback and thanks for responding!
It only took me 540min.
Y profab and not steed speed
Pro Fab answered questions for me online before ever installing. They were much more customer oriented.