First thing, hilarious video! second thing, thank you so much, I had the same damn issue and was troubleshooting the cylenoid (however you spell it) for a good hour, then tracing it back to figure water wasn't getting to it. I was going to run a new line but thankfully I youtube'd it and found your video. Sure enough, the copper line was clogged like yours. Having seen your video, I shut the water down first. Great stuff man, much appreciated!
The spraying event made me laugh out loud. I’m sorry you got hit. You handled it like a pro. Your video worked for me,thank you for you hard work. Ten thousand thumbs up!!!!!
Thank you. I recently moved into a new house with the same whole house humidifier, slightly older model than yours I think… This went a long way in helping me understand how it operates.
Thank you! I was going through your video for tips and then checked my water lines and it was exactly what happened with you (except I was able to clear my debris by just opening and closing the valve a few times). Huge thanks for making this video as you really made life easy for me and I can't thank you enough for taking the time to share!
Glad you have the knowledge to keep trying. I adopted a small Chihuahua and keep the house warmer than ever before. I set it at 5 and my nose doesn't become dry, but it keep running through the night. So I turn it off. What a pain!
Although your video was about debris obstructing a water flow, the fact that you just passingly mentioned the damper solved the mystery why I had plenty of water flow but no change in humidity levels. I did not even realize there was a damper, and it was located for some reason somewhere at the bottom as oppose to at the top, like you have it. Anyway, thank you!
Very helpful! I've been going through the HVAC system, humidifier, and a dehumidifier, air filtration system, and condensate pump to get all areas cleaned and running efficiently. Water lines is last bit of business and you have explained it so well that this 68-year-old woman feels confident now to do the water line inspection. Thank you.
Just wanted to say thanks for the super informative video! I was able to troubleshoot my unit following your steps, and it's working great again now! 👍
Proper add-a-line valve. NO piercing valve. Replace 4040 solenoid valve that clogs & seizes. Before replace check strainer & orifice. A stack of strong neodymium can be used to manually open close solenoid free it up. Can also add & change water filter for solenoid every year if you get tire of changing solenoid. Check your heat exchanger(forced air) especially 15 years old and approaching 20. CO DETECTORs alert you at around 70ppm & you will feel it's effects long before usually unexplained headaches. Close cold water heater then open a faucet to hot, that will release the pressure.
I had no water flow as well. Turns out my water was obstructed at the same point as yours, but instead of disassembling everything, I turned the knob for the pipe piercer on my saddle valve in then out, and now I have water.
Those "saddle valves" are a maintenance nightmare (especially on galvanized iron pipe). It's best just to plumb in a reducing tee with an actual valve and fitting to plumb any small pipe feeds to things like humidifiers or icemaker/water dispensers in appliances. And an expansion tank is definitely recommended and will take a lot of stress off of a water heater if your water system has a meter that will stop/restrict backflow into it, as any time that heater runs it will create a higher than normal pressure on your cold and hot water pipes until a faucet or something opens and releases that pressure. Glad you got things fixed and running again.
Hey buddy I have the two mains wires and what I’m guessing is the control wire. Just bought a house they didn’t disclose it didn’t work or that the water softener was broke so I’m just trying to salvage what I can. Thanks I know it’s way later
When you remove the supply line to the solenoid there is often a VERY small plastic filter (red) inside the inlet of the solenoid itself . You may have to use a flashlight to confirm this. use a small hook to remove and clean it as well. In fact that is the first place I troubleshoot . On new Solenoids it MAY be on the outlet(supply) side instead. (That seems useless to me. Why would I want allow build up inside the solenoid?) Put it on the other side if it fits and check it before each season. The buildup at the "T" is because we only crack the valve each season to supply small amount of water ( very little pressure) to the solenoid/filter to satisfy the correct operation and then check this at the drain . the discharge should be a slight trickle. Actually, with the copper supply line to the solenoid disconnected just open the "T" value all the way. It may clear the line with out removing it as here.
Is it normal for the humidifier to keep running after the furnace shuts off? I assume the proper level of humidity in the air hasn’t been reached yet? Looking at the control it showed me 13%. I moved the knob to setting 5. Temps outside are below zero.
I had water to the valve, the out tube was clear. The selinoid was working. After several times apart I noticed on the IN side it had a small nipple that was to have smaller than pin hole to reduce water flow plugged. I used a gas orifice cleaner, smallest one on the set to unplug it.
If you close the saddle valve all the way, it will unclog the hole without the water works. You should do that about once a year. Just close the saddle valve all the way and then open it back just a little bit.
First of all …thanks!……Note to self: release water pressure by opening a nearby faucet ..lol good point on checking for calcium \ lime buildup at untreated source
I had no water (Aprilaire 550M), and turned out to be a bad humidistat. Established that there was 24VAC from the furnace, and that the solenoid had water to it. Clicking the humidistat back and forth with the furnace running would sometimes produce momentary water flow, concluded bad humidistat. Got new one from Amazon for about the same price as a solenoid, all well now. These aren’t that hard to troubleshoot.
I’m assuming this is my issue because I have been having to change the panel filter after only a month or so and it has white sediment on it already. Sound right ?
Piercing valves are know to fail and leak. They are not good long term solutions, as you discovered. I would install a "T" with a shutoff, and a compression fitting to attach the supply hose that runs to the humidifier unit.
Hi, thanks for the video, this helped me take on my own which is the exact same model. Can you please explain the electrical wiring connections, I don’t seem to get power to the solenoid even when the furnace is on. Thanks!
Well, my knee-jerk reaction, without being there and knowing more, is that your solenoid may be bad. If the wiring appears intact but the solenoid doesn't show power, my guess would be to replace it. Good luck.
The solenoid clicks and I have water coming in to the top of the humidifier but the condensation pad appears to be pretty dry. There is water passing thru the unit and discharging out the drain into the sink. Blocked solenoid? Is there not enough water volume passing thru? I can't get the humidity level to increase in the home. Any clue what the problem could be?
I noticed the water flow in the plastic line was very small. It is not enough. There is an orfice plate that gets clogged. Remove the plastic line from the solenoid and you will see it. Use a needle to open it up. Then you will see good flow. It will saturate the dispersion filter and improve humidification.
my dude the hvac system will not be able to evaporate water at the flow rate it is producing, there will already be excess water production. The solenoid valve orifice for that model of humidifier is 3/32" at most and even that is excessive for the needs of the system
To get the most out of these humidifiers it’s better to have them hooked up to the hot water side not the cold waterside. Plus you won’t get that buildup on the hot water side.
How much water should be coming out of the tube feeding into wet pad? Mine has a constant drip but it doesn't seem like enough water is coming out. I have a compression valve that seems to be working great, so I'm wondering if the selenoid may be the issue
It could also be a clogged line? Basically, when the solenoid calls for water, the water should "pee" out. If you're able to check the lines by disconnecting both ends and establishing they're clear, then it sounds like you may have a bad solenoid. Good luck.
Have the same model. It seems my solenoid gets built up with lime deposits and locks up (Mississippi River water Minneapolis all Lime stone) Have replaced like 3 solenoides over the past 30 years. Got a metal ball valve coming off the water heater water flow great copper to solenoid. Question what can I soak the solenoid in to clean it and free it from all the lime deposits?? This model also has like a little balck strainer that fits inline before the solenoid have found that to disintegrate. Also its a little yellow water re stricter GPH.
I don't know your sure. My best guess would be to soak it in CLR. That's the actual name in case you haven't heard of it. Calcium Lime Rust Remover. But that may just be treating the symptom. The problem sounds like the water. You may want to consider a water softener. Or at least exploring the idea to learn more about them. Good luck.
Correct me if I’m wrong but did you not have a piercing valve connected as your supply to the humidifier? If so why didn’t you just screw down the piercing valve to unclog the hole in the pipe??
Should the pump need to run in winter during operation or is that excess water being pumped out? Should there even be excess water during operation if unit is set to humidify the house? I would think any water going into the unit would/should be absorbed by the pad and cast into the furnace. I’m having water consumption issues and troubleshooting. Thank you.
There is going to be excess water from the humidifier usage. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by pumped out though? But yes, the water will flow over the screen and then drain out. If you feel that not enough water is being utilized, those screens should be replaced annually, so you could try a new one of those? Or turning down the humidity? Typically, when a noticeable amount of excess water is being consumed, I would check for a possible leaking toilet or a dripping faucet. If it's a lot of water, maybe the cold spell cracked a pipe somewhere. Hopefully not of course. I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@wilderhomeinspections1626 thanks for getting back to me so quickly. We’ve identified that a rental water softener system and a toilet were leaking. I was surprised to notice that the humidifier system also tripped on pumping water from the reservoir on the floor. I guess I’m expecting that the water going into the filter would evaporate and not pool and pump out. Hope that makes sense.
Is your humidifier wired to a 24v transformer? I have the same set up but the last owner disconnected it and I’m trying to re-wire it but my best is giving me an RH not detected error.
Great video, John! I believe I have the same Aprilaire 550 humidifier. I'm getting a loud buzzing sound from my solenoid valve, which is a Richdel 784. Looking to replace it, but I'm not finding that make and model. Any thoughts on a equivalent replacement? Thanks!
I have the April Aire 700 model. The problem I have is when I install the fan unit clipped at the top and clipped at the bottom it is not making an electrical connection that it should make on the bottom of the fan housing and connecting to the so-called female and inside the unit. I have tried over and over to close this tightly so that it makes the connection but it simply doesn’t everything else works but I’m getting no humidity
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm not sure I'll be much help diagnosing an electrical issue through messaging. All I can suggest is to try to isolate the issue if you happen to have a current tester or similar tool. Maybe you have a bad solenoid, if you're not getting power past it? Maybe the tab itself is bad? It's honestly hard for me to say. Sorry I'm not much help. Good luck.
Piercing Valve Removing it without shutting water, without relieving pressure at the faucet. I got feeling of worms crawling all over my arm watching him do it. And yet I can stop myself from watching. CAN OF WORMS just begging for you propose for betrothal, marital commitment. If you have commitment issues don't touch piercing valve, before ready for marriage.
Thanks for leaving a couple of comments. I do appreciate them. My videos are "off the cuff". I don't rehearse, practice, or script them. And as you see, I'm not very smart. When you put those two things together, you get videos that you can't stop yourself from watching. Thanks again :)
Home inspector is using a saddle valve, and on the cold side, in his own home. These are the kind of things you WANT your home inspector to point out on the report rather than a loose receptacle, a rotting wood door and a burned out light bulb. This is sad.
Thanks for watching! Although, I'm not sure why you did since you obviously know so much about it? I'm guessing just to pick the video apart? You're right though, home inspectors are not professional plumbers, HVAC Techs, nor electricians, etc. And apparently, neither was the person who installed it in this house that I bought only months prior to making this video. But thanks for calling me sad. It's always nice to hear. I hope you have a Merry Christmas, happy holidays, and a better new year.
@@wilderhomeinspections1626 I was looking for solutions for solenoid repair for the Aprilaire 600. You did not point out in the video any cautions for someone contemplating buying or using a saddle valve. Just something a home inspector ought to know, along with not tapping the cold side. During home inspections, you surely encounter numerous whole home humidifiers. I don't mean to pick at you personally, but professionally, in your line of work, this is something worthy of addressing on a home inspection report, which was not mentioned during the video, which would beg the question as to why it wasn't brought up. It is just food for thought and I am sorry for saying "this is sad". It was intended to mean "it is sad that the home inspection industry either does not know or does not take the time to discuss matters such as this, given the implications of the use of a saddle vale, and on the cold side, for a humidifer". Take care
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First thing, hilarious video! second thing, thank you so much, I had the same damn issue and was troubleshooting the cylenoid (however you spell it) for a good hour, then tracing it back to figure water wasn't getting to it. I was going to run a new line but thankfully I youtube'd it and found your video. Sure enough, the copper line was clogged like yours. Having seen your video, I shut the water down first. Great stuff man, much appreciated!
The spraying event made me laugh out loud. I’m sorry you got hit. You handled it like a pro. Your video worked for me,thank you for you hard work. Ten thousand thumbs up!!!!!
Thank you. I recently moved into a new house with the same whole house humidifier, slightly older model than yours I think… This went a long way in helping me understand how it operates.
Thank you! I was going through your video for tips and then checked my water lines and it was exactly what happened with you (except I was able to clear my debris by just opening and closing the valve a few times). Huge thanks for making this video as you really made life easy for me and I can't thank you enough for taking the time to share!
Wow, that water spout was funny. Thanks for the help. I have trouble shooting tips to try.
Glad you have the knowledge to keep trying. I adopted a small Chihuahua and keep the house warmer than ever before. I set it at 5 and my nose doesn't become dry, but it keep running through the night. So I turn it off. What a pain!
Although your video was about debris obstructing a water flow, the fact that you just passingly mentioned the damper solved the mystery why I had plenty of water flow but no change in humidity levels. I did not even realize there was a damper, and it was located for some reason somewhere at the bottom as oppose to at the top, like you have it. Anyway, thank you!
I'm glad you were able to get it figured out. Thanks for the comment.
Very helpful! I've been going through the HVAC system, humidifier, and a dehumidifier, air filtration system, and condensate pump to get all areas cleaned and running efficiently. Water lines is last bit of business and you have explained it so well that this 68-year-old woman feels confident now to do the water line inspection. Thank you.
I'm glad it helped, even if just a little. Thanks!
Great video! I hope we are as lucky. We really appreciate your know-how and clear instructions.
Just wanted to say thanks for the super informative video! I was able to troubleshoot my unit following your steps, and it's working great again now! 👍
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Thank you for this video. I was able to troublesgoot my humidifier because of it.
Proper add-a-line valve. NO piercing valve.
Replace 4040 solenoid valve that clogs & seizes.
Before replace check strainer & orifice.
A stack of strong neodymium can be used to manually open close solenoid free it up. Can also add & change water filter for solenoid every year if you get tire of changing solenoid.
Check your heat exchanger(forced air) especially 15 years old and approaching 20. CO DETECTORs alert you at around 70ppm & you will feel it's effects long before usually unexplained headaches.
Close cold water heater then open a faucet to hot, that will release the pressure.
I had no water flow as well.
Turns out my water was obstructed at the same point as yours, but instead of disassembling everything, I turned the knob for the pipe piercer on my saddle valve in then out, and now I have water.
Well sure, if you want to do things the easy way lol.
Those "saddle valves" are a maintenance nightmare (especially on galvanized iron pipe). It's best just to plumb in a reducing tee with an actual valve and fitting to plumb any small pipe feeds to things like humidifiers or icemaker/water dispensers in appliances. And an expansion tank is definitely recommended and will take a lot of stress off of a water heater if your water system has a meter that will stop/restrict backflow into it, as any time that heater runs it will create a higher than normal pressure on your cold and hot water pipes until a faucet or something opens and releases that pressure. Glad you got things fixed and running again.
I agree. Thanks for the comments.
John, thanks for your video. It helped me find the problem.
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Totally awesome video🤩
Great job 👍
Awesome video. Is humidity controlled by the nest thermostat or the humidifier knob itself.
Hey man thanks for posting. I am having the same issues and plan to use this to trouble shoot. Will let you know how it goes
Good luck.
Hey buddy I have the two mains wires and what I’m guessing is the control wire. Just bought a house they didn’t disclose it didn’t work or that the water softener was broke so I’m just trying to salvage what I can. Thanks I know it’s way later
Nice job fella. Thanks!
Your water line went for the kill shot, haha. Good, educational video.
It sure did lol.
Thanks!
Dude I think you set me straight! Imma fix this thing!
When you remove the supply line to the solenoid there is often a VERY small plastic filter (red) inside the inlet of the solenoid itself . You may have to use a flashlight to confirm this. use a small hook to remove and clean it as well. In fact that is the first place I troubleshoot . On new Solenoids it MAY be on the outlet(supply) side instead. (That seems useless to me. Why would I want allow build up inside the solenoid?) Put it on the other side if it fits and check it before each season.
The buildup at the "T" is because we only crack the valve each season to supply small amount of water ( very little pressure) to the solenoid/filter to satisfy the correct operation and then check this at the drain . the discharge should be a slight trickle. Actually, with the copper supply line to the solenoid disconnected just open the "T" value all the way. It may clear the line with out removing it as here.
Great vid...big thumbs up for getting water in the face :-)
Very Helpful. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback
Is it normal for the humidifier to keep running after the furnace shuts off? I assume the proper level of humidity in the air hasn’t been reached yet? Looking at the control it showed me 13%. I moved the knob to setting 5. Temps outside are below zero.
Excellent video! Now I know how it works!
I had water to the valve, the out tube was clear. The selinoid was working. After several times apart I noticed on the IN side it had a small nipple that was to have smaller than pin hole to reduce water flow plugged. I used a gas orifice cleaner, smallest one on the set to unplug it.
This is the exact same problem I had.... thanks man.
I'm glad it helped.
If you close the saddle valve all the way, it will unclog the hole without the water works. You should do that about once a year. Just close the saddle valve all the way and then open it back just a little bit.
First of all …thanks!……Note to self: release water pressure by opening a nearby faucet ..lol good point on checking for calcium \ lime buildup at untreated source
I had no water (Aprilaire 550M), and turned out to be a bad humidistat. Established that there was 24VAC from the furnace, and that the solenoid had water to it. Clicking the humidistat back and forth with the furnace running would sometimes produce momentary water flow, concluded bad humidistat. Got new one from Amazon for about the same price as a solenoid, all well now. These aren’t that hard to troubleshoot.
I’m assuming this is my issue because I have been having to change the panel filter after only a month or so and it has white sediment on it already. Sound right ?
Piercing valves are know to fail and leak. They are not good long term solutions, as you discovered. I would install a "T" with a shutoff, and a compression fitting to attach the supply hose that runs to the humidifier unit.
Helpful good video
That's was satisfying just watching it haha
Hi, thanks for the video, this helped me take on my own which is the exact same model. Can you please explain the electrical wiring connections, I don’t seem to get power to the solenoid even when the furnace is on. Thanks!
Well, my knee-jerk reaction, without being there and knowing more, is that your solenoid may be bad. If the wiring appears intact but the solenoid doesn't show power, my guess would be to replace it. Good luck.
The solenoid clicks and I have water coming in to the top of the humidifier but the condensation pad appears to be pretty dry. There is water passing thru the unit and discharging out the drain into the sink. Blocked solenoid? Is there not enough water volume passing thru? I can't get the humidity level to increase in the home. Any clue what the problem could be?
My first guess would be your damper may be closed?
Also, your filter probably needs replaced annually. But, I'd start with looking at your damper.
I noticed the water flow in the plastic line was very small. It is not enough. There is an orfice plate that gets clogged. Remove the plastic line from the solenoid and you will see it. Use a needle to open it up. Then you will see good flow. It will saturate the dispersion filter and improve humidification.
my dude the hvac system will not be able to evaporate water at the flow rate it is producing, there will already be excess water production. The solenoid valve orifice for that model of humidifier is 3/32" at most and even that is excessive for the needs of the system
To get the most out of these humidifiers it’s better to have them hooked up to the hot water side not the cold waterside. Plus you won’t get that buildup on the hot water side.
Why do you say that?
@@MichaelRei99 most recommend using the hot water side.
you'll still get buildup depending on how old your water heater is
How much water should be coming out of the tube feeding into wet pad? Mine has a constant drip but it doesn't seem like enough water is coming out. I have a compression valve that seems to be working great, so I'm wondering if the selenoid may be the issue
It could also be a clogged line? Basically, when the solenoid calls for water, the water should "pee" out. If you're able to check the lines by disconnecting both ends and establishing they're clear, then it sounds like you may have a bad solenoid. Good luck.
@@wilderfishing You were 100% right! After cleaning, it's now pee-ing like a racehorse haha.
Have the same model. It seems my solenoid gets built up with lime deposits and locks up (Mississippi River water Minneapolis all Lime stone) Have replaced like 3 solenoides over the past 30 years. Got a metal ball valve coming off the water heater water flow great copper to solenoid. Question what can I soak the solenoid in to clean it and free it from all the lime deposits?? This model also has like a little balck strainer that fits inline before the solenoid have found that to disintegrate. Also its a little yellow water re stricter GPH.
I don't know your sure. My best guess would be to soak it in CLR. That's the actual name in case you haven't heard of it. Calcium Lime Rust Remover.
But that may just be treating the symptom. The problem sounds like the water. You may want to consider a water softener. Or at least exploring the idea to learn more about them. Good luck.
I recommend to my customers to close the saddle valve in the summer when not using humidifier to keep debris clear from opening on water line.
That's actually a really good idea. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you 🙏.🎉🎉🎉🎉
I was able to fix my problem. I turned the water-line tap setscrew in and out. I think our hard water had plugged the opening.
Correct me if I’m wrong but did you not have a piercing valve connected as your supply to the humidifier? If so why didn’t you just screw down the piercing valve to unclog the hole in the pipe??
Because that would have been too easy.
thanks for sharing. Anyone could comment what is the size the cooper line connected to the saddle valve? 1/8 or 3/8 inch? thanks
Going off of memory, my guess would be 1/8.
Should the pump need to run in winter during operation or is that excess water being pumped out? Should there even be excess water during operation if unit is set to humidify the house? I would think any water going into the unit would/should be absorbed by the pad and cast into the furnace. I’m having water consumption issues and troubleshooting. Thank you.
There is going to be excess water from the humidifier usage. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by pumped out though? But yes, the water will flow over the screen and then drain out. If you feel that not enough water is being utilized, those screens should be replaced annually, so you could try a new one of those? Or turning down the humidity?
Typically, when a noticeable amount of excess water is being consumed, I would check for a possible leaking toilet or a dripping faucet. If it's a lot of water, maybe the cold spell cracked a pipe somewhere. Hopefully not of course.
I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@wilderhomeinspections1626 thanks for getting back to me so quickly. We’ve identified that a rental water softener system and a toilet were leaking. I was surprised to notice that the humidifier system also tripped on pumping water from the reservoir on the floor. I guess I’m expecting that the water going into the filter would evaporate and not pool and pump out. Hope that makes sense.
Is your humidifier wired to a 24v transformer? I have the same set up but the last owner disconnected it and I’m trying to re-wire it but my best is giving me an RH not detected error.
I do believe it is 24v. There is a wire that should tie in to the furnace. That both the humidistat and solenoid are connected to.
Great video, John! I believe I have the same Aprilaire 550 humidifier. I'm getting a loud buzzing sound from my solenoid valve, which is a Richdel 784. Looking to replace it, but I'm not finding that make and model. Any thoughts on a equivalent replacement? Thanks!
I believe Aprilaire has a generic solenoid that will work with multiple models. I'd recommend investigating that further.
Thank you
I have the April Aire 700 model.
The problem I have is when I install the fan unit clipped at the top and clipped at the bottom it is not making an electrical connection that it should make on the bottom of the fan housing and connecting to the so-called female and inside the unit. I have tried over and over to close this tightly so that it makes the connection but it simply doesn’t everything else works but I’m getting no humidity
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm not sure I'll be much help diagnosing an electrical issue through messaging. All I can suggest is to try to isolate the issue if you happen to have a current tester or similar tool. Maybe you have a bad solenoid, if you're not getting power past it? Maybe the tab itself is bad? It's honestly hard for me to say. Sorry I'm not much help. Good luck.
most people will tell you that you should never use that type of saddle valve for multiple reasons including that one.
All you gave to do is periodically close the valve to maintain your opening.
Helpful vid, thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback.
Hilarious ...... but helpful. Thanks.
With this type of humidifier, does the water get blown thru the filter mesh and into the ductwork? ty
Basically, yes. There isn't a direct fan. But the flow of air introduces the moisture into the system.
@@wilderhomeinspections1626 I mean does water collect inside the ductwork? Or in the bottom of the ductwork ?
@@billnipp2309 It should not, no. The water should drain out of the system. Only humidity should be introduced.
@@wilderhomeinspections1626 alrighty. Thanks.
Piercing Valve Removing it without shutting water, without relieving pressure at the faucet.
I got feeling of worms crawling all over my arm watching him do it. And yet I can stop myself from watching.
CAN OF WORMS just begging for you propose for betrothal, marital commitment. If you have commitment issues don't touch piercing valve, before ready for marriage.
Thanks for leaving a couple of comments. I do appreciate them. My videos are "off the cuff". I don't rehearse, practice, or script them. And as you see, I'm not very smart. When you put those two things together, you get videos that you can't stop yourself from watching. Thanks again :)
That’s why you don’t use saddle valves
That would be a Humidistat.
Yes it would. Thanks for correcting me.
Home inspector is using a saddle valve, and on the cold side, in his own home. These are the kind of things you WANT your home inspector to point out on the report rather than a loose receptacle, a rotting wood door and a burned out light bulb. This is sad.
Thanks for watching! Although, I'm not sure why you did since you obviously know so much about it? I'm guessing just to pick the video apart? You're right though, home inspectors are not professional plumbers, HVAC Techs, nor electricians, etc. And apparently, neither was the person who installed it in this house that I bought only months prior to making this video.
But thanks for calling me sad. It's always nice to hear.
I hope you have a Merry Christmas, happy holidays, and a better new year.
@@wilderhomeinspections1626 I was looking for solutions for solenoid repair for the Aprilaire 600. You did not point out in the video any cautions for someone contemplating buying or using a saddle valve. Just something a home inspector ought to know, along with not tapping the cold side. During home inspections, you surely encounter numerous whole home humidifiers. I don't mean to pick at you personally, but professionally, in your line of work, this is something worthy of addressing on a home inspection report, which was not mentioned during the video, which would beg the question as to why it wasn't brought up. It is just food for thought and I am sorry for saying "this is sad". It was intended to mean "it is sad that the home inspection industry either does not know or does not take the time to discuss matters such as this, given the implications of the use of a saddle vale, and on the cold side, for a humidifer". Take care
So you’re saying you put your saddle valves on your hot water? And you want people to listen to you?
The humidifier needs to be connected to the hot water
Not necessarily. The humidifier just needs access to water.
Hot water many times will calcify quicker than cold
😂😂😂
Wow. It took 8 minutes to tell us something you could have in 30 seconds ??