Nice big clean attic with water nearby. Now do a typical installation, you know, tiny attic/crawlspace, no power, no water, cobwebs, dead mice, leaky toilet drain, etc, etc, etc.
Yes I agree he makes it look so easy In fact its hell up in the attick fiberglas dust to destroy your lungs...120 degree heat roofing nail hazards...falling through the ceiling hazards.... and rabid mother squirrels or raccons protecting their young, ready to bite your face off!
Richard Trethewey is my hero! He has 40 some seasons with this old house and his son is following in his footsteps in the technology side of HVAC by exploring every type of reduced emissions electrical supply, co-ops that build a central supply being wind, ground, reduced electrical frequency (Less than 60hz) smart thermostats, GEO fencing and pushing proper building techniques like his father “If you insulate, you must ventilate”. In a house built in the 80’s, I have insulated the attic, the walls outside with R-14 EIFS to reduce utilities. It works! I wish I knew of certain products and had systems they use today “IF” properly installed. Buying a house built 10, 20 or 40 years ago, I would know more than the average home inspector. But they get paid. Pull up, park and look at the roof. How many vents that are not for attic but piping. Say three, yet inside there are 4 bathrooms and hood over the cooktop range. Isn’t that 5. Is most smelly air vented into the attic or outside. Call the city permits office and ask about recent or permit history. It’s on computer! Home ad says new lights, 800 sq ft addition, new pool or hot tub, finished basement, 240 Vac in garage. No permits! Wait, stop. Old wood 1980’s windows. Many use body filler, fill rotted wood, sand, paint and caulking. What R-Value is in the attic, are the vents in the eves? Does the inspector check outlets for GFCI, or Arc-Fault? No! Fire them.
I have this humidifier. It works. This unit is for houses thay are 4000 sq ft or more. It adds a noticeable increase to your electric bill. Annually you must replace the steam generator about 80 dollars plus you need to change the scale filter on the waterline about 25 dollars. I have a guitar collection that requires a certain humidity to keep the instrument stable and playable. to me the cost of operation is justified. I do recommend other types of humidifiers for homes less than 4000 sq ft.
Michael - can you provide a range for the noticeable increase to your electric bill? This has been my #1 reason for putting this off, but curious if overall you would say it was worth the uptick to your monthly bills, or if you noticed similar changes / reductions e.g. water *not* wasted vs. the traditional drip pad humidifiers, or other cost savings that maybe made the increased energy bill worth it?
@@banshee200 My house is 5600 sq ft. My bride is beautiful and I'm trying to keep her that way. Additionally I have expensive wooden musical instruments. The uptick equals a beauty shop bill monthly added to my electric bill during winter months. I have to add... the device meets the test for expected results. Not the most economical choice if you have a more passive option that will meet your sq ft requirements. Hope this helps.
At 6:17, the finished replacement duct is not insulated on the exterior, and it was not insulated from the inside. Since this attic space is not a conditioned space (no insulation visible on the roof sheathing), that is a code violation to not insulate that section of duct. Just because they bring in a licensed tradesperson doesn’t mean the work performed is compliant with building codes.
I need something like this. I bought a cabinet kind that just blows a fan through a filter. Doesn’t seem to be helping at all. I like that this one looks like a warm mist one. I believe those work better than the pass through a filter kind.
Do you only use this type of humidifier in winter? I live in Nevada where air is dry all year around and temperature in summer reaches 110 F. Can i use it all year around?
rafal ciemski I use it almost all year around I live in Dubai, uae and it reaches 120 we get sick a lot from benign in the air conditioned house school or car and go out in the hot weather and we have dust allergy.
Dampers are to be install horizontal to airflow not vertical. This will help keep air balanced better as the thin part of the metal is in the air not the round part like a paddle in water. Secondly they should have sealed the duct with sealant and let dry. Lastly..if you have ductboard or soundlined duct..DO NOT INSTALL a humidifier.. it will cause mold!
I just had the canister replaced in my Carrier Humidifier System. I turned the power back on~ How long will it take for the system to be completely restarted?
That was way over board I could have put a aprilair in with half the work. No electricity. It’s a bypass humidifier but I do agree on the plenum being changed.
@@rozalexander9157 - you can prevent the water lines from freezing by using a hot water recirculation system; both a hot water supply line and a cold water supply line would need to be brought into the same location. A temperature sensing valve is part of that system, and it senses the temperature of the hot water; when the hot water temperature drops too low, the then lukewarm water is sent back to the water heater through the cold water pipes. This keeps the water at a temperature above freezing in both the hot and cold supply lines, and it also keeps the water moving - both of those work to prevent freezing (but the system does depend on electricity so a power outage can defeat that). Then the challenge is how to avoid freezing of the other parts of the system; that’s a matter I can’t give advice on, because I think all of the other parts are vulnerable.
Don't be so hard on yourself and call yourself uneducated. If you don't understand how it works watch the video one more time. I do agree with you it is a complicated system to understand.
Quite to clever troll attempt - put an asinine comment, wait for someone to call you out, then edit to so they look like they are picking a fight. too bad for you, everyone can see the "edited" after your comment.Sorry. Troll comment fail. Better luck next time.
Where do I get a humidifier like that and how much is it? I have a gas furnace with forced hot air and I destroyed the plenum by putting a humidifier on top of it. But I see how you place it down stream of the furnace. the furnace is in the bacement
What’s the trade off... cost of electricity to heat to steam, or the cost of water running off in a cool humidifier just prior to heating in the return? Seems with 220v needed for steam the cost of energy would surpass the run off costs of water. What I don’t understand is why run off cool humidifiers don’t reuse the run off water recirculated in water supply loop as a second supply. The lift required takes energy, but is it far lower than running these steam units. Perhaps the steam unit is needed on heat pump applications. It would help to clarify this.
The simple answer is that the cold water humidifiers can't really humidify much. Plus they waste a lot of water because they don't cycle it which is a shame.
Dumb comment. In places where winters are cold. Actually cold like 0° the air becomes so dry it makes you sick. And it causes the wood in the house to shrink.
you've obviously never lived somewhere rural up north where your oil furnace is running all winter/fall long and you wake up with bloody noses because the air is so dry.
It was heated and cooled with a heat pump so in summer it pulls moisture out the air which you need to add back. That's why there was already drains there.
@@Luckingsworth im one of those people, am sick right now due to cold even at 27F - house is @ 35% humidity - i have to remind myself to use portable humidifiers - looking into getting a whole house for the winter time.
Where he connects it to the water heater pipe, with a little needle valve, WILL leak. It'll start about three days after the install. You'll know it's dripping when you see a growing water stain on your ceiling, since this is in the attic. Oh, and you'll notice the leak on a Saturday at 5:30 pm. Good times!
if you are using the one im thinking about, its the same as a fridge line. as long as you pierce it and open it back, there shouldnt be any leaks. going on 7 years of no leaks here..
Every house in Hilton head island s.c.has them in the attic. They all had pans with a dedicated 1" drain line that ran all the way outside the house. Seperate line for t&p. And it did always suck to get them up there.
Correct me if I'm wrong but this has to be one of, if not the most, inefficient types of systems? Why wouldn't you use an evaporative cooling system? Especially with them having hard water....
Steam humidifiers aren't prone to mold/mildew the way evaporative cooling ones are, and they don't require you to replace wicking filters. That's really the primary benefit.
Must be for illustration only, is there an actual heat & air co. that would install uninsulated or non duct lined metal in an attic. Just saying they couldn't be that dumb.
I don't understand that at all. Humidity is really low in the winter time, which is when you be also using a heat pump. Winter air is dry and abrasive everywhere, even at 30 or 40 degrees.
So, what do you consider old? Many DIY's live in a 50 year old house with forced air, and not some fancy heat pump. I'm pretty sure that Nancy Northshore could have afforded an install.
Other solutions exist: If you spray atomized mist directly into the hot part of the plenum, it turns to steam. No separate bill for first boiling water to make steam. Furnace signals determine when the unit mists and adjust the volume of water used based on a humidistat. It's absurdly inefficient to use a separate process to preheat water to steam.
Nope! That atomized mist is full of minerals. In a year or two scale will start forming in the duct and you'll be sorry you ever did this. Oh yeah and the plenum isn't hot enough to actually boil that mist.
@@tenthdimension9836 Not only that but even if that did work, you wouldn't be able to humidify without the furnace running heat. Sometimes your house may need humidity but not heat.
When warm air meets cool air it condensates. If you put more humidity into your living space and it rises then you have more moisture in your attic. Hope the mold doesnt take hold
If you are producing 40-60% relative humidity in your living space and you have a properly insulated attic floor that won't happen. By the time air penetrates that insulation and meets with air cold enough to create condensation, the temperature differential is so low no condensation occurs. If you steam up your bathroom while taking a shower and run the exhaust fan to your attic, you will get hot, steamy air colliding with the cold air in the attic. You don't need a steam humidifier to get mold in your attic.
All the HVAC in unconditioned hot attic. Very inefficient . Notice the main duct is not even insulated. I bet the cooling bills are very high in this house. It would be better if the rafters were insulated (spray foam) instead of the ceiling joists. Water heater in the attic? Northern states this would freeze and be a disaster.
That looks like a Honeywell, a knock-off of the popular Aprilaire 800. The cover has the Honeywell badge taken off and the stainless steel diffuser is different than the Aprilaire 800 (very unique).
One that uses a LOT of electric to heat water up! other units Ive seen simply use a fine mist spray of water on a foam screen, and a 4" takeoff flex duct goes thru it and into the main duct, LOTS cheaper.
I paid about $240 for the pretty nice humidifier I installed myself. I have a feeling the price of THIS humidifier is around $1200. Anybody familiar with this specif model?
almeidadave1 cost under $600 online but the canister replacement is about $150. The Aprilaire 800 is a better product. This Honeywell one is a knock off of the 800
In the Gulfcoast, we go out of our way to get RID of humidity so mold doesn't grow and we don't destroy our furniture and run the AC even while not home (at a higher temperature). I can't imagine that someone would actually want to ADD humidity.
What I really wanna know is why that plenum isn't insulated? Why aren't the plenum joints taped and masticed or mastic taped? How about if you make videos about home improvement, you actually do it right. I used to love watching this old house when I was a kid. Now that I do HVAC, Electrical, and Plumbing for a living I see how full of bologna they are most of the time. Can I get the business name/location and license for this HVAC contractor? There are repercussions for doing sub par work.
The one's between the starter collars and plenum are. The ones under the drive cleat aren't and between the air handler and the plenum aren't. Don't get me wrong it's a good video for the application of the humidifier. I would just like to see things done up to code.
Besides plenum not insulated its not design right. As you take off air to keep static in ductwork the duct must be decrease on size. Also, new unit sits on top of bricks. This is very very poor quality job! i feel bad for owners of this house.
Licensed electrician? No support for the cable coming out of the furnace cabinet. The protective conduit sleeve is not connected or supported. Seems to be NM cable, as can be seen by the NM cable connector, which would require a means of protection, but still needs to be supported. It's unclear if the cable goes into the sub panel, but if it does, again, no support. No way the electrical work on this project was inspected.
Copper for the drain and a 220v circut for a humidifier? I guess if it calls for it, but man a tiny heating element like that needs 220v? PVC that drain line all day, she already had pvc drains on the a/c unit anyway and to use copper for a drain is just a waste of money. Good job though, not a really ideal installation location, they are hardly that neat/clean. But it got the point across.
there is a company that sells a better humidifier which is a filterless, water mist sprayer. Mister-Mini Duct-Mounted Atomizing Humidifier. suggesting to install something like this is a highway robbery because there is 100 times better option available for less which requires basically no maintenance at all.
I live in Houston and I have absolutely no idea why anybody would want to humidify their house. 🤷🏽♂️ But where the bayou City, it's humid during winter, summer year around! Lol
Should have been stainless steel duct with an integral drain pan in the duct work....never do it the way shown without at least a drain and it should be sst duct
now do this on a retrofit where you got to get creative. and humidity depends on personal preference and what kind of stuff you have in your house. optimal conditions for humans is 40-60% humidity. electronics you want 45% just enough humidity to keep static discharges at bay but not enough to potentially damage the electronics.
If a home owner installed the steam humidifier featured, it would instantly void the warranty. Those things are not cheap. Get a $150 one from home depot or call a professional when you're dealing with that much money.
Good show! Been watching with my dad since I was a kid
Nice big clean attic with water nearby. Now do a typical installation, you know, tiny attic/crawlspace, no power, no water, cobwebs, dead mice, leaky toilet drain, etc, etc, etc.
So very true... PLUS lighting!
You forgot to mention the 110 F temperatures in the attic.
so true been there .
Hahaha. And nails sticking out that you can impale your head on
My attic is a balancing act, only 1 sheet of plywood when you first go up the ladder hatch. The attics on this show are always top notch.
This guy has such a smooth confident voice
Yes I agree he makes it look so easy
In fact its hell up in the attick fiberglas dust to destroy your lungs...120 degree heat roofing nail hazards...falling through the ceiling hazards.... and rabid mother squirrels or raccons protecting their young, ready to bite your face off!
Richard Trethewey is my hero! He has 40 some seasons with this old house and his son is following in his footsteps in the technology side of HVAC by exploring every type of reduced emissions electrical supply, co-ops that build a central supply being wind, ground, reduced electrical frequency (Less than 60hz) smart thermostats, GEO fencing and pushing proper building techniques like his father “If you insulate, you must ventilate”. In a house built in the 80’s, I have insulated the attic, the walls outside with R-14 EIFS to reduce utilities. It works! I wish I knew of certain products and had systems they use today “IF” properly installed.
Buying a house built 10, 20 or 40 years ago, I would know more than the average home inspector. But they get paid. Pull up, park and look at the roof. How many vents that are not for attic but piping. Say three, yet inside there are 4 bathrooms and hood over the cooktop range. Isn’t that 5. Is most smelly air vented into the attic or outside. Call the city permits office and ask about recent or permit history. It’s on computer! Home ad says new lights, 800 sq ft addition, new pool or hot tub, finished basement, 240 Vac in garage. No permits! Wait, stop. Old wood 1980’s windows. Many use body filler, fill rotted wood, sand, paint and caulking. What R-Value is in the attic, are the vents in the eves? Does the inspector check outlets for GFCI, or Arc-Fault? No! Fire them.
That attic is pretty convenient to get into, however it would be a real pain replacing that water heater.
getting called in and find out you're working beside Richard on TOH!! that would be nuts!
I'd also tape the joints no harm in doing so.
That is a really big attic.
No
It's actually a TV studio
That's what she said
I have this humidifier. It works. This unit is for houses thay are 4000 sq ft or more. It adds a noticeable increase to your electric bill. Annually you must replace the steam generator about 80 dollars plus you need to change the scale filter on the waterline about 25 dollars. I have a guitar collection that requires a certain humidity to keep the instrument stable and playable. to me the cost of operation is justified. I do recommend other types of humidifiers for homes less than 4000 sq ft.
Michael Morris what brand is it? I am having a hard time finding a steam humidifier online.
Humidifiers Ive seen simply spray a fine mist of water on a large pad and the duct goes thru it, no burning kw hours heating water to steam!
Michael Morris what’s the name or brand of the humidifier in the video?
Michael - can you provide a range for the noticeable increase to your electric bill? This has been my #1 reason for putting this off, but curious if overall you would say it was worth the uptick to your monthly bills, or if you noticed similar changes / reductions e.g. water *not* wasted vs. the traditional drip pad humidifiers, or other cost savings that maybe made the increased energy bill worth it?
@@banshee200 My house is 5600 sq ft. My bride is beautiful and I'm trying to keep her that way. Additionally I have expensive wooden musical instruments. The uptick equals a beauty shop bill monthly added to my electric bill during winter months. I have to add... the device meets the test for expected results. Not the most economical choice if you have a more passive option that will meet your sq ft requirements. Hope this helps.
Hold your circle cutter at a slight angle and it works alot smother
I feel bad for whoever has to replace that water heater
the humidifier can help feel my house warm on winter cuz is cold the heater is on is hard to the heat pump stops and the aux heat turn on to helps
How come you don't insulate the sheet metal plenum?
Jim Moriarty it’s probably lined inside
@@The1JBanks Its not lined inside, you could see inside when he cut the holes, if it was lined it would hold the water grow mold.
At 6:17, the finished replacement duct is not insulated on the exterior, and it was not insulated from the inside. Since this attic space is not a conditioned space (no insulation visible on the roof sheathing), that is a code violation to not insulate that section of duct.
Just because they bring in a licensed tradesperson doesn’t mean the work performed is compliant with building codes.
The water heater is in the attic? RIP the guy that has to change that out every 10 years
mine is in my attic with an automatics shut off valve. pretty common.
I need something like this. I bought a cabinet kind that just blows a fan through a filter. Doesn’t seem to be helping at all. I like that this one looks like a warm mist one. I believe those work better than the pass through a filter kind.
if it is a heat pump, why they did not cover high pressure line with insulation? Where is the axillary pan condensation discharge pipe?
Do you only use this type of humidifier in winter? I live in Nevada
where air is dry all year around and temperature in summer reaches 110
F. Can i use it all year around?
I'm installing this same unit on my home this weekend, I also live in NV, I'll let you know how I t works this summer.
ojaslayer they are not reliable and the maintenance kits are expensive
This is a stream humidifier so it adds a small amount of heat to the air. Have you considered an adiabatic humidifier, like an April aire?
rafal ciemski I use it almost all year around I live in Dubai, uae and it reaches 120 we get sick a lot from benign in the air conditioned house school or car and go out in the hot weather and we have dust allergy.
@@Deltron6060 did it work 3 yrs later
Dampers are to be install horizontal to airflow not vertical. This will help keep air balanced better as the thin part of the metal is in the air not the round part like a paddle in water. Secondly they should have sealed the duct with sealant and let dry. Lastly..if you have ductboard or soundlined duct..DO NOT INSTALL a humidifier.. it will cause mold!
Why cut into the cold water instead of the hot water
I just had the canister replaced in my Carrier Humidifier System. I turned the power back on~ How long will it take for the system to be completely restarted?
at 2:40 whats the name of that tool?
Next ep how to remove mold cause my humidifier was setup high
To guys make great videos that informative and fun to watch. Thank you.
That was way over board I could have put a aprilair in with half the work. No electricity. It’s a bypass humidifier but I do agree on the plenum being changed.
how would you get return air from a single flexible return duct? just put on a powered humidifier that takes 120v and forget about ducting it
Hi Jay
Do you know how to put whole house humidifier on furnace in attic, without causing freezeups, etc
@@rozalexander9157 - you can prevent the water lines from freezing by using a hot water recirculation system; both a hot water supply line and a cold water supply line would need to be brought into the same location. A temperature sensing valve is part of that system, and it senses the temperature of the hot water; when the hot water temperature drops too low, the then lukewarm water is sent back to the water heater through the cold water pipes. This keeps the water at a temperature above freezing in both the hot and cold supply lines, and it also keeps the water moving - both of those work to prevent freezing (but the system does depend on electricity so a power outage can defeat that).
Then the challenge is how to avoid freezing of the other parts of the system; that’s a matter I can’t give advice on, because I think all of the other parts are vulnerable.
Does this eliminate static zap in the house if it is too dry? I got tons of static in winter only!
Why do they install a hot water heater in the attic?
May not have a basement or crawl space?
Very nice system! Will be installing it soon.
Ladies and gentlemen... the uneducated...
Don't be so hard on yourself and call yourself uneducated. If you don't understand how it works watch the video one more time. I do agree with you it is a complicated system to understand.
Quite to clever troll attempt - put an asinine comment, wait for someone to call you out, then edit to so they look like they are picking a fight. too bad for you, everyone can see the "edited" after your comment.Sorry. Troll comment fail. Better luck next time.
This is a very poorly designed system overall. You can only put so much lipstick on a pig.
Where do I get a humidifier like that and how much is it? I have a gas furnace with forced hot air and I destroyed the plenum by putting a humidifier on top of it. But I see how you place it down stream of the furnace. the furnace is in the bacement
What’s the trade off... cost of electricity to heat to steam, or the cost of water running off in a cool humidifier just prior to heating in the return? Seems with 220v needed for steam the cost of energy would surpass the run off costs of water. What I don’t understand is why run off cool humidifiers don’t reuse the run off water recirculated in water supply loop as a second supply. The lift required takes energy, but is it far lower than running these steam units. Perhaps the steam unit is needed on heat pump applications. It would help to clarify this.
The simple answer is that the cold water humidifiers can't really humidify much. Plus they waste a lot of water because they don't cycle it which is a shame.
helpful information, thank you for sharing !!
How's the garden guy doing. Hope he's good and well.
No insulated ducts?
Wouldn't this mold the ducting?
That’s awesome so cool I can make my house more humid now just waiting for an indoor mold generator to match!
Dumb comment. In places where winters are cold. Actually cold like 0° the air becomes so dry it makes you sick. And it causes the wood in the house to shrink.
you've obviously never lived somewhere rural up north where your oil furnace is running all winter/fall long and you wake up with bloody noses because the air is so dry.
It was heated and cooled with a heat pump so in summer it pulls moisture out the air which you need to add back. That's why there was already drains there.
40% humidity cause mold.
@@Luckingsworth im one of those people, am sick right now due to cold even at 27F - house is @ 35% humidity - i have to remind myself to use portable humidifiers - looking into getting a whole house for the winter time.
Water(washers/humidifiers) on upper levels,in attics, always makes me nervous. All that water flowing down, if there is a break.
Where he connects it to the water heater pipe, with a little needle valve, WILL leak. It'll start about three days after the install. You'll know it's dripping when you see a growing water stain on your ceiling, since this is in the attic. Oh, and you'll notice the leak on a Saturday at 5:30 pm. Good times!
What needle valve? They Teed off of the cold supply, and it has it's own ball valve shut off.
if you are using the one im thinking about, its the same as a fridge line. as long as you pierce it and open it back, there shouldnt be any leaks. going on 7 years of no leaks here..
Does that tap into the hot or cold water line?
What’s the suggested humidity level for an old loose house… not that nice tight new one…
Humidity should be around 50% for human comfort.
Nice work !
hi, if your contactor wants to put a water heater in your attic, its time for a new contractor
Every house in Hilton head island s.c.has them in the attic. They all had pans with a dedicated 1" drain line that ran all the way outside the house. Seperate line for t&p. And it did always suck to get them up there.
I just watched the one where he installed a home dehumidifier
Duct work needs to be insulated. I hope it’s in a warm climate, water in the attic is not a good idea
Correct me if I'm wrong but this has to be one of, if not the most, inefficient types of systems? Why wouldn't you use an evaporative cooling system? Especially with them having hard water....
Steam humidifiers aren't prone to mold/mildew the way evaporative cooling ones are, and they don't require you to replace wicking filters. That's really the primary benefit.
That attic has more walk space than my living room. And yes I work full time
Classism isn't what it used to be
What Brand is the Unit that was installed?
Nortec/Condair. Looks like the RH2.
Lol nice attic presentation
terrible duct system, no insulation, way to long flex duct,not sealed, hot cold or hot will that attic get? freezing conditions?
christopher walker they only show horrible installations on tv. Nevermind the fact that it probably sounds like a train rolling.
Must be for illustration only, is there an actual heat & air co. that would install uninsulated or non duct lined metal in an attic. Just saying they couldn't be that dumb.
Where do they live? Usually, where a heat pump is used, there is no need for a humidifier because of the climate that heat pumps work in.
Heat pumps are working further north than years past. They are as far north as Maine now
I don't understand that at all. Humidity is really low in the winter time, which is when you be also using a heat pump. Winter air is dry and abrasive everywhere, even at 30 or 40 degrees.
Don't exactly need self tapping screws for everything
So, what do you consider old? Many DIY's live in a 50 year old house with forced air, and not some fancy heat pump. I'm pretty sure that Nancy Northshore could have afforded an install.
do you have to run additional lines for the humdiostat?
Yes unless the tstat has additional lines it can spare.
It's most likely wireless.
@@chrisadkinswork5016 no, Richard said they ran control wires
Other solutions exist: If you spray atomized mist directly into the hot part of the plenum, it turns to steam. No separate bill for first boiling water to make steam. Furnace signals determine when the unit mists and adjust the volume of water used based on a humidistat. It's absurdly inefficient to use a separate process to preheat water to steam.
Nope! That atomized mist is full of minerals. In a year or two scale will start forming in the duct and you'll be sorry you ever did this. Oh yeah and the plenum isn't hot enough to actually boil that mist.
@@tenthdimension9836 Not only that but even if that did work, you wouldn't be able to humidify without the furnace running heat. Sometimes your house may need humidity but not heat.
A nice new source of MOLD, MILDEW and potential WATER LEAK IN THE ATTIC!
How nice.
They have a water heater in the ATTIC too??? wtf??? people love begging for problems!
No more bloody noses!
This "old" house my tail, that house looks about as new as could be.
I’m not American, but isn’t 35-40% humidity very low?! In the Netherlands 40-60% is considered normal
Strange set up for being in the attic. The coil should be above the air handler since the made it an upflow system.
When warm air meets cool air it condensates. If you put more humidity into your living space and it rises then you have more moisture in your attic. Hope the mold doesnt take hold
If you are producing 40-60% relative humidity in your living space and you have a properly insulated attic floor that won't happen. By the time air penetrates that insulation and meets with air cold enough to create condensation, the temperature differential is so low no condensation occurs. If you steam up your bathroom while taking a shower and run the exhaust fan to your attic, you will get hot, steamy air colliding with the cold air in the attic. You don't need a steam humidifier to get mold in your attic.
that application could never be done up here in the north,can't have any type of water in the attic,it'll freeze and then messy
You could but you would need to have a mechanical room that is conditioned just like the rest of the house and very well insulated water pipes.
They should have wrapped that ductwork with insulation or it will sweat like crazy in an attic.
Big Big money to add a residential humidifier. I'd guess that a $3,000 job.
i love nortec
Just watched how to Install a dehumidifier
All the HVAC in unconditioned hot attic. Very inefficient . Notice the main duct is not even insulated. I bet the cooling bills are very high in this house. It would be better if the rafters were insulated (spray foam) instead of the ceiling joists. Water heater in the attic? Northern states this would freeze and be a disaster.
How much will that run you to install in a two story house?
assuming two units: about $2100 installed ($1100 for both units and $1000 labor)
Generally you only need one on the first floor system. These humidifier s have a very high capacity.
I guess these people never change the filter in their air handler?
You forgot to insulate your supply duct
What brand is that humidifier?
It's the Aprilaire 800. Way overkill unless you live in a 6000 sqft home.
That looks like a Honeywell, a knock-off of the popular Aprilaire 800. The cover has the Honeywell badge taken off and the stainless steel diffuser is different than the Aprilaire 800 (very unique).
Its not an aprilaire product.
One that uses a LOT of electric to heat water up! other units Ive seen simply use a fine mist spray of water on a foam screen, and a 4" takeoff flex duct goes thru it and into the main duct, LOTS cheaper.
..............How Many People have an Attic....like this one.............'/'
Certainly not ME! last place I'd put all that stuff is in an attic, especially water lines and waterheater!
I paid about $240 for the pretty nice humidifier I installed myself. I have a feeling the price of THIS humidifier is around $1200. Anybody familiar with this specif model?
Is it me or is Sandy foxy as hell?! :-)
I service them and those "maintenance " kits are 199 bucks
Rust out all your duct work just so your can feel a little more comfortable in the winter. Brilliant idea 🙄
hate to know the cost of this humidifier
almeidadave1 cost under $600 online but the canister replacement is about $150. The Aprilaire 800 is a better product. This Honeywell one is a knock off of the 800
More than "we" can afford.
2500.00 just to install a humidifier.
Cool vid on my channel I have worked on many steam humidifiers.
#hvacrnorth #hvacovertime
In the Gulfcoast, we go out of our way to get RID of humidity so mold doesn't grow and we don't destroy our furniture and run the AC even while not home (at a higher temperature). I can't imagine that someone would actually want to ADD humidity.
Arie M really? In winter here in NE, it gets super dry running the heat, that's why someone would WANT to add humidity!
lol I guess I forgot about that...Come to think of it, I really hated when our gym teacher made us run outside in winter in the midwest...
Not everyone live where you live lol
Go spend some time in a house that's 70 F and 5% relative humidity and then you'll understand why you'd want to humidity.
That's one super naive comment
Check out Richey...He didn't break anything...:)
This guy screams “I’m going to find something expensive to charge you” in every one of his videos.
What I really wanna know is why that plenum isn't insulated? Why aren't the plenum joints taped and masticed or mastic taped? How about if you make videos about home improvement, you actually do it right. I used to love watching this old house when I was a kid. Now that I do HVAC, Electrical, and Plumbing for a living I see how full of bologna they are most of the time. Can I get the business name/location and license for this HVAC contractor? There are repercussions for doing sub par work.
Daniel Manfredi I think the joints are gasketed. But yeah, should be insulated.
The one's between the starter collars and plenum are. The ones under the drive cleat aren't and between the air handler and the plenum aren't.
Don't get me wrong it's a good video for the application of the humidifier. I would just like to see things done up to code.
Besides plenum not insulated its not design right. As you take off air to keep static in ductwork the duct must be decrease on size. Also, new unit sits on top of bricks. This is very very poor quality job! i feel bad for owners of this house.
This is a how not to video. This would get the inspectors laughing in WV.
Im sure it was all done minimally initially for the VIDEO which would have been 3 hours long if they did all that.
Thanks sir
Why do most American homes in the south put hvac in the attic is beyond me....
Mold will be their worse enemy very quick.
Just put uv light inside the plenum and no problem.
Licensed electrician? No support for the cable coming out of the furnace cabinet. The protective conduit sleeve is not connected or supported. Seems to be NM cable, as can be seen by the NM cable connector, which would require a means of protection, but still needs to be supported. It's unclear if the cable goes into the sub panel, but if it does, again, no support. No way the electrical work on this project was inspected.
It was just put together quickly for the video, I'm sure AFTER the video was done all of that stuff was addressed permanently
Heat Pump
wouldn't this rot the aluminum?
Edward Nunez what aluminum?
Copper for the drain and a 220v circut for a humidifier? I guess if it calls for it, but man a tiny heating element like that needs 220v? PVC that drain line all day, she already had pvc drains on the a/c unit anyway and to use copper for a drain is just a waste of money. Good job though, not a really ideal installation location, they are hardly that neat/clean. But it got the point across.
there is a company that sells a better humidifier which is a filterless, water mist sprayer. Mister-Mini Duct-Mounted Atomizing Humidifier.
suggesting to install something like this is a highway robbery because there is 100 times better option available for less which requires basically no maintenance at all.
They get stuck from minerals and stop working within a week
I live in Houston and I have absolutely no idea why anybody would want to humidify their house. 🤷🏽♂️ But where the bayou City, it's humid during winter, summer year around! Lol
Ya lol
I have no idea why anyone would chose to live in Houston.
What an awful previous duct system who engineered that mess jeez…
why do i see Arnold Schwarzenegger in the thumbnail
Should have been stainless steel duct with an integral drain pan in the duct work....never do it the way shown without at least a drain and it should be sst duct
I couldn't even make it halfway through...
Lets insall a $500 humidifier
More
Lol i wish i could install without mastic or insulation.
that insulation can really itch and in your lungs its hell
now do this on a retrofit where you got to get creative.
and humidity depends on personal preference and what kind of stuff you have in your house.
optimal conditions for humans is 40-60% humidity.
electronics you want 45% just enough humidity to keep static discharges at bay but not enough to potentially damage the electronics.
Those giant drills! Get some impacts
This is more like a movie production than an actual house install. Not knocking the product.
So the "How to" is actually a "hire professionals" job? Got it.
all for just $2500
Reupload
Good eye :P
They did that intentionally for people who want to find and watch specific segments from an episode.
If a home owner installed the steam humidifier featured, it would instantly void the warranty. Those things are not cheap. Get a $150 one from home depot or call a professional when you're dealing with that much money.