I love the idea of a light in the heart of the fire - As a teenager in the 70s I won an 'Airfix series 1' competition run by a local model shop with a BF-109 trailing cotton wool fire and smoke. Made bullet holes with a hot needle, and in my bloodthirsty youth I splashed the inside of the shot-up canopy with red paint.
Looks great! Had a thought: swap the port engine propeller for a disc so it looks like it's spinning. This will contrast nicely with the motionless prop on the flaming engine.
I have done a similar thing on my old planes I had as a kid. Make sure to rough the disc with some sandpaper too. I used a thin clear acrylic sheet, cut into a circle and roughed up with a circular motion, then used a yellow wash for the blade tips. I have also used a hot needle for bullet holes in the paper sided aircraft as it adds a realistic burr like when a bullet has passed through and aircraft.
Built these very same Airfix models when I was 13.... didn’t have the skills, the tools or the imagination to make them realistic.... but looked great hanging from my ceiling with a Lancaster bomber..
Is only for me He111 the most scary bombers? This bombers did so much damage to so many places and country's They formation was also scary Great job I wish I could make sucha a models
Interesting concept and great execution of the fire so will be looking forward to seeing the completed diorama. Definitely needs some damage to the wing and bullet holes to complete the scene.....just thinking!!
Thanks Robert. Yep, some bullet holes are definitely needed (heated pin through plastic maybe?). The good news is I found the tip of the nose glass so I can add that and the nose machine gun now!
It’s fun to read the comments. Lots of good ideas. I think it would add realism if both pilot’s heads were turned to look at the flaming engine. They would definitely be concerned! 😊
I like the effect of the smoke. When they were on the table side by side they looked like cotton wool sprayed in different colours but when attached to the aircraft transformed into smoke - Amazing!
13:32 as a pilot IRL I'll just say these all look amazing. IMO the top looks the most realistic. One thing to keep in mind are the vortices that come off of any airfoil while in flight, particularly the engine props and wingtips. The smoke and flames would likely be spiraling behind the engine, very tightly at first. I see that movement in the top example :) Cheers!
Would they still be spiralling if the engine's stopped, as depicted? There'd still be all kinds of vortices but not as coherent a spiral as in propwash, surely
@@RoamingAdhocrat If the engine had seized or the prop had been feathered (as it appears in the box art), then that's true. There would still be a counter-clockwise (as viewed from behind) and outward vortex trailing the aircraft but it wouldn't be nearly as tight of a spiral. Without getting too critical here, the view at 16:38 looks much more like an explosion from the top of the engine than a steady stream of flames and smoke (another reason why the top example looks more realistic to me). I don't think an HE-111 would have been able to sustain a fire that intense for longer than a matter of seconds.
G'day MN, That's a great experiment and it seems you've pulled it off... that looks quite realistic and would benefit, I think, if you displayed the finished diorama with its own darkened lighting in a separate display case arrangement. Apart from the BV 141 (because it's weird and unique), I generally don't do Axis aircraft, just Allied WW2 and Korean War models. However, if one can build destroyed or battle damaged Axis aircraft, I'd give that a go. I think you're on the right track with the cotton wool. When I was in the RAAF, I went through a very basic airfield and flight line fire training course. So, I've seen old airframes up close and on fire. I think if you do this again, and I hope you do, perhaps you can tweak the overall effect by making the 'smoke' and 'flames' conform a little more to the effects of the aircraft travelling, at speed, whereupon the fire would be more shaped by the aerodynamic effects of the aircraft’s forward movement. I have no idea how you might do this but it's something I'll devote some thought to and maybe experiment myself. I think you've chosen the right medium in cotton wool as I can't think of other materials that would simulate flames and smoke as well as you've done here. The person who suggested having a plastic disc to simulate the props of the damaged engine makes little sense if the other props on the model are static. Maybe all 'turning discs' or none at all; or at least show the damaged engine props having been stopped and feathered. It's more to think about to achieve the best look. NB: G'day Frank Rizzo, Sorry, mate I misread your suggestion for the rotating discs. You are, perfectly right. It would look good! Years ago I modelled a downed Hurricane and I found one could bend the props, as if they hit the ground, by gently heating up the prop blades while slowly bending them. That seemed to work well. I've also managed to simulate a bullet hole in a cockpit window by masking the window with on both sides with tape and then firmly, quickly hitting the middle of the pane of 'Perspex' with the very sharp tip of a dental probe. (Really good if you’ve got one spare to practice on.) Then I removed the interior tape and applied a tiny amount of PVC glue and let it dry, clear. Now I could remove the outer tape to show the shattered 'Perspex' window without any pieces falling out of the frame. Showing bullet damage to the pilot is, of course, up to the modeller. MN, you're a good modeller and one who thinks outside the box, literally, not just building a model as the instructions suggest. The 'devil' and the accuracy are in the tiny details. Well done! Cheers, BH
Hi Bill. Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate the feedback. Yes, I will definitely tackle the 'fire' effect again sometime in the future. Good tip on the damaged windows too (something this model could definitely use) - thanks. I had to look up the BV 141...definitely weird and unique, I can see why you would want to model that for sure.
I have this model to build plus a F Fortress a B25 mitchell a Lancaster plus Do17 which im slowly working on at the moment,thxs for the vid for inspiration 😀
I dig it. I wonder if you thought of putting in a bit of clear sprue, married up to the led, where you tore out the excess cotton... and spread a bit more light into the cotton that way?
@@ModelNerd In Europe most model kits are sold without the naughty cross as part of the decal sheet. It's actually illegal in some countries. They can be bought as after market decals sheets however.
A beautiful video,reminds me of my first Airfix kits in 1975 and my personal favourites were the 1/32 scale german/8th army/Afrika korp/Japanese/US/Australian/Gurkha infantry boxes. In 1982 l got the 1/24th scale Messerschmidt 109 D,now that was a Beast of an aircraft kit to assemble,the box was bigger than me. Thank you for reviving Great childhood memories. Airfix went by the wayside for me in '82 as l discoved TAMIYA Military Minatures and never looked back. The Heinkel he111 has to be one of the most filmed planes in colour Movies,two appear (constantly) in Patton (1970) and about 80 in The Battle of Britain (1968) as Franco had tons of them left over after the Spanish Civil War and some scenes from both films were made in Spain,l wonder were these the type of Plane that bombed Guernica? Great video and wonderful Modelling skills.
What's going on here? Just 1 day after i've finished my he 111 h22 with v1, this video is recommended for me 😂 and before i wasn't even watching you.... but nice work👍🏼
Back again! I just had a thought at the end of the video - have you thought of using a sub miniature magnetic reed switch? They're only a couple of mm in width (these are the switches in door alarms which switch over when the magnet moves away) You could fit one to the underside of the undercarriage bay and put a round magnet inside the wheel/tyre. If the undercarriage was moveable you could then switch the LED on or off by raising or lowering the undercarriage!
Sure. Start with the LED you want. Then select the battery type you want (e.g. button battery, 2 x AA, etc) depending on what will fit in your model. Then you need to work out what resistor you need to use to reduce the current from your battery to the level needed by your LED (using an online calculator is easiest). Then grab a switch of your choice and some wire and solder everything into a circuit :)
My favourite thing about the He 111 is the pilot's seat is adjustable - for landing he'd open a panel in the canopy above his head, raise the seat and land with his head outside the aircraft.
@@ModelNerd Think this photo shows the panel in the open position - or possibly there was another smaller panel. Looking at your vid, the detailed seat components suggest the seat and flight controls might all pivot up together with a parallelogram-type mechanism at the back of the pilot's seat. commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Captured_He_111_in_Libya_1942.jpg#mw-jump-to-license
Airfix have certainly improved the quality of the detailing compared to these same aircraft that I built over 50 years ago now! I love the 'add on' inner fuselage panels, really well thought out. So many kits these days have no crew figures at all so it's nice to see Airfix continuing with their traditional pilots but I've always wished they could produce them as mini 'multipose' figures with separate arms to vary the positions etc. By the way, at 0.08 is that a tailors dummy in the bomb aimers position? Didn't realise the Luftwaffe was that short of men! Well done on a great video.
Haha - I agree. An aircraft with no crew comes across as a bit cheap (and it is surprisingly hard to find crew figures) - but these guys are all in *identical* poses. And that is sitting calming with their arms at their sides. A bit disappointing considering the amount of glass on a He 111, allowing you to see inside easily.
Looks great! When my kids were younger, I helped them (or rather they watched me help them) with dioramas for school projects. One involved a Kamikaze attacking a ship. bottom line had to show the plane diving from the sky (heavy foam board painted scene to hit the deck of a ship (painted cardboard with details, sea of painted latex). We did several things to the aircraft model: painted to show the oil leaking as you did but added smear to the windscreen with the broken glass and a splotch of blood on the inside of the canopy. Used painted cotton for the smoke trail as you did but used it to hide a wire that was inserted into the tail of the fuselage and attached to the foamboard "sky". Finally using a hot needle, punched bullet holes and made selected gashes in the wings, cowling, prop and so on and mounted the plane, bending the wire to illustrate a diving turn into the ship. Along with his written report, the project was a real hit with my son's classmates...
I really wish you talented people would stop calling yourselves 'nerds'. You are skilled creative artists, craftsmen, subject matter experts and entertainers. Fabulous end result. I could almost feel the heat!. Okay, now back to scraping messed up primer spray off the ME 262 model I am in the process of totally ruining.
Thanks mate - I'm glad you liked it. 'Nerd' isn't an insult though (at least not to me) - I take it to mean somebody who has invested lots of time and effort and passion into something :) I'm slowly trying to convert the world to this definition of the term :)
Outstanding job, love the attention to detail. Quick question. Do you do the oil wash right at the end, after the matt coat ? I'm really struggling with washes at the moment. My aircraft look like they have flown through a proper shit storm.
Thanks Mr Biscuits! I put the oil wash down after the gloss coat, then when that has dried I put a matt coat down. The gloss coat definitely makes it easier to remove. To be honest I haven't really got on well with artists oils and struggle to remove them myself sometimes.
i've seen people use tiny magnets to keep pieces they might need to remove together, maybe you could see if you can find a few that fit inside the wing.
I had seen some photos and movies of bombers having a fire in the engine. As far as I experience the fire is just to big. It will normal not reach back to the tailfin? And maybe some bulletsholes around the engine to show it actual had been hit with multiple bullets? But really a nice build. You are far better than I. And yes I also remember this kid from I was a boy. But that version was not so smart as your version. There were no interior but the pilot seat and a frontgunner laying on the floor in the cookpit and a roofgunner in a rotating turret where the gun could move up and down. But man.. I was so proud anyway and put a lot of playing hours into it with all my other models. But He 111 was my favorite. :-)
Just wondered if there should be bullet holes? A row of dots from a 303 Browning. I used to have loads of these on my ceiling. I once stretched a line of cotton from wall to wall and flew a B24 from it. I stood back and watched as the cotton broke and the Liberator flew nose first into the wall. 50 years ago and still vivid.
That’s an interesting effect. I think you have your fire colours the wrong way round. It should be yellow near the engine and red near the black smoke. You have made a big hot rod flame. The brighter colour near the engine might also help the lighting.
I have never done this so I have no idea how it would turn out and I never was this good a modeler but here is my idea. The starboard engine is fully ablaze and the prop is likely dead. The port engine is running but in the model the prop is stationary. Why not remove the prop and replace it with a piece of clear plastic the same diameter as the prop. You then paint a smudge on it to imitate the spinning prop. Do this by attaching the clear plastic onto a drill and spinning it. With diluted black paint you barely touch a brush to the spinning plastic from hub to tip. The paint should be really light in color as all you want is a blur. You should be able to see through the blur. On the tip you dab it with yellow for a warning. The yellow will be just a tiny tiny drop that will encircle the round plastic edge. Of course you paint the blade tips on the dead prop as well. This is beautiful but I do think you have too much cotton.
Thanks Jeff, it is a good suggestion and especially in a situation like this it does look strange that the engines are both in the same stationary state. I hadn't really planned to do the spinning prop thing and unfortunately now I am locked down and can't go out to get supplies, so I think this is a technique I'll have to try on a future build.
Thanks William. It was actually fairly quick using the technique I described (paint everything then gently scrape away). Quicker than other methods I've tried, at least.
Great work and the fire and smoke trail is superb.This model seems like a huge improvement to the version I made in the 70s.Has it been completely retooled since then ?. Far more detail and the crew look different than the old ones.
Thanks James. Yes, I think a lot of their kits are retooled - but not all, so there are still some that can you out. I use ScaleMates.com to check what has changed between each version and make sure it isn't just a new set of boxart.
To make bullet holes use a small heated nail and go across the plastic-as if it was done by a machine-gun from another plane then take silver paint and put inside the holes to make it look like the planes metal
Nice. I built this kit in 1968. It came with tail swastikas like it should have to be historically correct. I'm not sure how I feel about why it is felt that historical models should not have them today. In the museums I've been to they haven't painted over the swastikas of the actual planes, accurate history is important. Nice job regardless.
Thanks mate. Personally I don't worry about the swastikas too much. The simple fact is that swastikas are illegal to display (in this context) in a number of countries, and it makes sense to produce one version of a kit rather than multiple. It's similar to many of the 80s and 90s F1 kits I build - they don't include tobacco advertising logos. Sometimes I buy replacement decals to fill them in, sometimes not.
Hi - it's Tamiya Mark Set. Basically it helps the decals go down by softening them up a little bit. It's particularly helpful if the decals are on complex curved surfaces or uneven surfaces (e.g. with panel lines or rivets). Sorry, I should explain these things more in my videos :)
Hi, great awesome, awesome video. How do you get the Ariel long stringy thing on models? I've been trying to do it for ages but don't know how. Also how do you get the panel lines so obvious and standing out so much. thanks
Thanks mate. For the panel lines, the black base coat followed by the thinner main coat means you leave a lot of the black showing through (especially if you avoid spraying the main coat directly into the panel lines). After that, a dark oil pin wash in the panel lines worked well too. For the aerials I use rigging string (I think designed for model ships). It's elastic and stretches easily, meaning you're in no danger of pulling the aerial masts over with the tension. Something like this: hlj.com/ultra-fine-black-lycra-rigging-20-denier-45m-145ft-pitir0201?
@@ModelNerd Oh OK Thanks. Did you go over the panel lines with anything (knife or something) before paint to make them stand out? Why did you apply a black base coat first? And what is a thinner main coat? Thanks
No, the panel lines in the Airfix kits are already quite big. The black base coat is a "pre shading" technique that allows you to have darker areas showing through by applying the main colour coat more or less thinly.
I think you're right. I think the box art is supposed to represent the He 111 held in the Norwegian Armed Forces Collection, which was downed in 1940: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norwegian_Armed_Forces_Aircraft_Collection
Wonderful video man I really enjoyed it. Nice music, your skills are awesome and your explanations and narrations are perfect and clear. This channel has a lot of potential. Hope to see lots of Luftwaffe and RAF builds in future :)
I did a few airfix kits when I was a kid, they were terrible quality then..... I chose to do matchbox kits instead when they came all g. Is airfix better quality now?
I'm assuming the battery is 1.5v? Try wiring another button battery in series to make 3v to get it brighter if it can be fitted in the wing. Also, has anyone tried soldering onto this type of battery? I think the tape adhesion will weaken quickly over time and may be another source of a weak light from the LED. Nice work though.
Hi Andrew. The battery is 3v. It's enough to power to the LED to its spec - it's just that the LED isn't bright enough really. I did try to solder directly to the battery but the very smooth surface of the battery makes it difficult for the solder to adhere.
Wow, really nice work there. I was thinking maybe you could use some fiber optic cable in the trail of flame for added affect, but I suppose you've heard that one already.
Actually I haven't heard that suggestion before. I've used fibre optics in another project, but only those that provide a point of light at the end. I'll have to look into it more - thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks Bill. Yes, I used glue. In the video I often show dry fitting the part rather than applying the glue - usually because filming requires a slightly awkward angle and I don't want to mess it up (the model or the video!).
Thanks Gilbert. I've really enjoyed and been pleasantly surprised by the recent Airfix kits. I've got the RAF B17 and the Sea Hurricane in the stash still.
Hard to say: maybe 5 to 10 hours to build, then 5 to 10 more hours to paint and weather? But the main thing with aircraft is there are a lot of subcomponents, so it's often a case of glue a few items together, wait for the glue to properly set, maybe prime the parts (wait for primer to dry), paint (wait for paint to dry), etc.
Yeah, maybe. There wasn't one in the kit and to be honest it's one of those things I can take or leave - if they're there I'll use them, but it's absence doesn't particularly bother me.
Irving González Scale Modelling : you’re right: denying those WWII planes their Swatikas is as much a historical error as denying the existence of the concentration camps.
@@janbuyck1 It's not the same at all. The He 111, as with all Luftwaffe aircraft, were indeed tools utilised by the Nazis to commit horrific things, but they were also just that - tools, and can therefore be disassociated with the philosophy they flew for. While it would be an error to scratch the swastikas off of real Luftwaffe aircraft preserved in museums, you should be able to have a model of an aircraft without also having to bring with it that symbol, and all the connotations it implies. If you want to put a swastika on your model for historical accuracy, that's fine. If you want to have a model of a German aircraft without a swastika on it, that's also fine.
Thanks. I'm going to add some bullet holes, definitely. For the torn up wing, I think I will save that for a future build (I already have an idea) because that would involve quite a lot of butchering of the wing and adding of metal or foil to simulate the aircraft's metal. I need to practise that first!
As a young boy I made several combat damaged aircraft and in hindsight I realized the machine gun damage shouldn’t be a nice neat line of holes. The flight paths of the 2 aircraft would literally cause the bullets to often hit in a very haphazard way.
It's RLM 02. Like so many of these things in our hobby, there's some debate about when / where / if the interiors went from being RLM 02 to RLM 66. I went for RLM 02 because I like it more :)
I love the idea of a light in the heart of the fire - As a teenager in the 70s I won an 'Airfix series 1' competition run by a local model shop with a BF-109 trailing cotton wool fire and smoke. Made bullet holes with a hot needle, and in my bloodthirsty youth I splashed the inside of the shot-up canopy with red paint.
Looks great!
Had a thought: swap the port engine propeller for a disc so it looks like it's spinning. This will contrast nicely with the motionless prop on the flaming engine.
Thanks Frank - it's a good suggestion.
I have done a similar thing on my old planes I had as a kid. Make sure to rough the disc with some sandpaper too. I used a thin clear acrylic sheet, cut into a circle and roughed up with a circular motion, then used a yellow wash for the blade tips. I have also used a hot needle for bullet holes in the paper sided aircraft as it adds a realistic burr like when a bullet has passed through and aircraft.
@@tmd63 I don't understand the bullet part.... what do you mean with "paper sided aircraft"? With blur, you mean the trail of the bullet?
@@AlbertoDsign Maybe hes talking about ww1 planes that had canvas skins. Also he said "burr" as in jagged edges around the bullet damage.
Hans! Our stuffing is coming out!
"Don't worry I got my grandma in the back she can patch it up for us"
@@someguyontheinternet8282 grandma: goes on to wing with nitting equipment
Built these very same Airfix models when I was 13.... didn’t have the skills, the tools or the imagination to make them realistic.... but looked great hanging from my ceiling with a Lancaster bomber..
I reckon if it looks good and makes you happy, it doesn't matter if it is 'realistic' or not. That reminds me - got to get the Lancaster finished....
Not sure it’s the very same model, this version looks far more detailed than the one I built. Perhaps it’s a retool?
@@sirrathersplendid4825 this is a new 2010s tool yea. 2012 IIRC
Yep - Scalemates is great for checking the history of kits like this. www.scalemates.com/kits/airfix-a05021-heinkel-he-111-h-20--109397
Me too
That idea of using cotton wool to simulate smoke/fire is surprisingly effective! Nicely done.
Thank you. Yes, I was surprised by how well it worked too!
After watching this video. I need my youth again to make my models properly! You have a gift, patience and skill.
Go on Paul - you know your youth is still there!
One of the greatest 111's you'll ever see!
Thanks Bonnie
Is only for me He111 the most scary bombers?
This bombers did so much damage to so many places and country's
They formation was also scary
Great job I wish I could make sucha a models
I made a model like this with my father very long ago
Good memories of this plane and kit
But that was the he 111 h-20
Interesting concept and great execution of the fire so will be looking forward to seeing the completed diorama. Definitely needs some damage to the wing and bullet holes to complete the scene.....just thinking!!
Thanks Robert. Yep, some bullet holes are definitely needed (heated pin through plastic maybe?). The good news is I found the tip of the nose glass so I can add that and the nose machine gun now!
epically awesome!!!
Thank you!
It’s fun to read the comments. Lots of good ideas. I think it would add realism if both pilot’s heads were turned to look at the flaming engine. They would definitely be concerned! 😊
I think you're right!
Looks like it's easier to assemble than all the Airfix kits of the 60s and 70s i have made :D
For sure! The new kits are very nice.
I like the effect of the smoke. When they were on the table side by side they looked like cotton wool sprayed in different colours but when attached to the aircraft transformed into smoke - Amazing!
Cheers Simon. Yes, I was quite surprised that the smoke effect worked so well too.
great time saving tip on the canopy!
13:32 as a pilot IRL I'll just say these all look amazing. IMO the top looks the most realistic. One thing to keep in mind are the vortices that come off of any airfoil while in flight, particularly the engine props and wingtips. The smoke and flames would likely be spiraling behind the engine, very tightly at first. I see that movement in the top example :)
Cheers!
Would they still be spiralling if the engine's stopped, as depicted? There'd still be all kinds of vortices but not as coherent a spiral as in propwash, surely
@@RoamingAdhocrat If the engine had seized or the prop had been feathered (as it appears in the box art), then that's true. There would still be a counter-clockwise (as viewed from behind) and outward vortex trailing the aircraft but it wouldn't be nearly as tight of a spiral. Without getting too critical here, the view at 16:38 looks much more like an explosion from the top of the engine than a steady stream of flames and smoke (another reason why the top example looks more realistic to me). I don't think an HE-111 would have been able to sustain a fire that intense for longer than a matter of seconds.
Very good effect! Thank you.
Thanks Pete
Used to build model kits in the late 70s, god I wish they looked like that. Very impressed with the build
Thanks mate
Really good work mate! Keep going!
Thanks Alex
G'day MN, That's a great experiment and it seems you've pulled it off... that looks quite realistic and would benefit, I think, if you displayed the finished diorama with its own darkened lighting in a separate display case arrangement. Apart from the BV 141 (because it's weird and unique), I generally don't do Axis aircraft, just Allied WW2 and Korean War models. However, if one can build destroyed or battle damaged Axis aircraft, I'd give that a go.
I think you're on the right track with the cotton wool. When I was in the RAAF, I went through a very basic airfield and flight line fire training course. So, I've seen old airframes up close and on fire. I think if you do this again, and I hope you do, perhaps you can tweak the overall effect by making the 'smoke' and 'flames' conform a little more to the effects of the aircraft travelling, at speed, whereupon the fire would be more shaped by the aerodynamic effects of the aircraft’s forward movement.
I have no idea how you might do this but it's something I'll devote some thought to and maybe experiment myself. I think you've chosen the right medium in cotton wool as I can't think of other materials that would simulate flames and smoke as well as you've done here.
The person who suggested having a plastic disc to simulate the props of the damaged engine makes little sense if the other props on the model are static. Maybe all 'turning discs' or none at all; or at least show the damaged engine props having been stopped and feathered. It's more to think about to achieve the best look. NB: G'day Frank Rizzo, Sorry, mate I misread your suggestion for the rotating discs. You are, perfectly right. It would look good!
Years ago I modelled a downed Hurricane and I found one could bend the props, as if they hit the ground, by gently heating up the prop blades while slowly bending them. That seemed to work well.
I've also managed to simulate a bullet hole in a cockpit window by masking the window with on both sides with tape and then firmly, quickly hitting the middle of the pane of 'Perspex' with the very sharp tip of a dental probe. (Really good if you’ve got one spare to practice on.) Then I removed the interior tape and applied a tiny amount of PVC glue and let it dry, clear. Now I could remove the outer tape to show the shattered 'Perspex' window without any pieces falling out of the frame. Showing bullet damage to the pilot is, of course, up to the modeller.
MN, you're a good modeller and one who thinks outside the box, literally, not just building a model as the instructions suggest. The 'devil' and the accuracy are in the tiny details. Well done! Cheers, BH
Hi Bill. Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate the feedback. Yes, I will definitely tackle the 'fire' effect again sometime in the future. Good tip on the damaged windows too (something this model could definitely use) - thanks. I had to look up the BV 141...definitely weird and unique, I can see why you would want to model that for sure.
Absolutely amazing, great skills to have achieved this model. Wishing I had your talent, unfortunately I have hand's like feet. 🤔
Thanks. Sorry about your hands :)
Very impressive , a lovely model of the HE111 , keep up the good work.
Thanks Robert
I have this model to build plus a F Fortress a B25 mitchell a Lancaster plus Do17 which im slowly working on at the moment,thxs for the vid for inspiration 😀
Thank you, Mark. Yes, I've been doing aircraft a bit more recently too.
@@ModelNerd l do mainly 1/72 scale got a small collection of allied and axis vehicles and figures.
I dig it. I wonder if you thought of putting in a bit of clear sprue, married up to the led, where you tore out the excess cotton... and spread a bit more light into the cotton that way?
Thanks, that's a good suggestion
Nice work though! Good looking model.
(Missing a certain WWII decal on the tail though... Understandable, no one likes getting demonetized.)
Thanks. The extra decal just wasn't included in the kit :)
Was It a
napalm
And
Zyklon
Insurance
Symbol
@@ModelNerd In Europe most model kits are sold without the naughty cross as part of the decal sheet. It's actually illegal in some countries. They can be bought as after market decals sheets however.
Good show, jolly good show major!
Thanks Daniel!
A beautiful video,reminds me of my first Airfix kits in 1975 and my personal favourites were the 1/32 scale german/8th army/Afrika korp/Japanese/US/Australian/Gurkha infantry boxes. In 1982 l got the 1/24th scale Messerschmidt 109 D,now that was a Beast of an aircraft kit to assemble,the box was bigger than me. Thank you for reviving Great childhood memories. Airfix went by the wayside for me in '82 as l discoved TAMIYA Military Minatures and never looked back. The Heinkel he111 has to be one of the most filmed planes in colour Movies,two appear (constantly) in Patton (1970) and about 80 in The Battle of Britain (1968) as Franco had tons of them left over after the Spanish Civil War and some scenes from both films were made in Spain,l wonder were these the type of Plane that bombed Guernica? Great video and wonderful Modelling skills.
Thanks Daniel. I think some He 111s were involved in the Guernica bombing, but I think it was primarily other aircraft used.
What's going on here? Just 1 day after i've finished my he 111 h22 with v1, this video is recommended for me 😂 and before i wasn't even watching you.... but nice work👍🏼
Haha!
Back again! I just had a thought at the end of the video - have you thought of using a sub miniature magnetic reed switch? They're only a couple of mm in width (these are the switches in door alarms which switch over when the magnet moves away) You could fit one to the underside of the undercarriage bay and put a round magnet inside the wheel/tyre. If the undercarriage was moveable you could then switch the LED on or off by raising or lowering the undercarriage!
Wow - that sounds both complex and interesting! Thanks - I'll have to check it out.
the kit looks great, i think i liked the fire option with a lot of black.
Thanks
@@ModelNerd no problem!!!
could you lease explain what i would need for the electrics - great vid :)
Sure. Start with the LED you want. Then select the battery type you want (e.g. button battery, 2 x AA, etc) depending on what will fit in your model. Then you need to work out what resistor you need to use to reduce the current from your battery to the level needed by your LED (using an online calculator is easiest). Then grab a switch of your choice and some wire and solder everything into a circuit :)
Fantastic built. I guess you'll build the propellers to look like running.
Thanks. I'm not going to use the spinning disk technique on this model, but perhaps on a future build.
My favourite thing about the He 111 is the pilot's seat is adjustable - for landing he'd open a panel in the canopy above his head, raise the seat and land with his head outside the aircraft.
Wow, I've never heard this. I read that the bombardier's seat moves backwards to allow him to go prone on the bombing run.
@@ModelNerd Think this photo shows the panel in the open position - or possibly there was another smaller panel.
Looking at your vid, the detailed seat components suggest the seat and flight controls might all pivot up together with a parallelogram-type mechanism at the back of the pilot's seat.
commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Captured_He_111_in_Libya_1942.jpg#mw-jump-to-license
13:57 looks like you skinned a ferret.
How did you know?
@@swaldron5558 I have had worked ferrets for years. :-) Fantastic intelligence and wonderful animals.
This is very impressive! I hope the crew got out, to spend the rest f the war in Canada!
Thanks Scott
Airfix have certainly improved the quality of the detailing compared to these same aircraft that I built over 50 years ago now! I love the 'add on' inner fuselage panels, really well thought out. So many kits these days have no crew figures at all so it's nice to see Airfix continuing with their traditional pilots but I've always wished they could produce them as mini 'multipose' figures with separate arms to vary the positions etc. By the way, at 0.08 is that a tailors dummy in the bomb aimers position? Didn't realise the Luftwaffe was that short of men!
Well done on a great video.
Haha - I agree. An aircraft with no crew comes across as a bit cheap (and it is surprisingly hard to find crew figures) - but these guys are all in *identical* poses. And that is sitting calming with their arms at their sides. A bit disappointing considering the amount of glass on a He 111, allowing you to see inside easily.
Looks great! When my kids were younger, I helped them (or rather they watched me help them) with dioramas for school projects. One involved a Kamikaze attacking a ship. bottom line had to show the plane diving from the sky (heavy foam board painted scene to hit the deck of a ship (painted cardboard with details, sea of painted latex). We did several things to the aircraft model: painted to show the oil leaking as you did but added smear to the windscreen with the broken glass and a splotch of blood on the inside of the canopy. Used painted cotton for the smoke trail as you did but used it to hide a wire that was inserted into the tail of the fuselage and attached to the foamboard "sky". Finally using a hot needle, punched bullet holes and made selected gashes in the wings, cowling, prop and so on and mounted the plane, bending the wire to illustrate a diving turn into the ship.
Along with his written report, the project was a real hit with my son's classmates...
Nice! Sounds like a great diorama. I particularly like the "they watched me help them" :)
Fantastic work. Wish ya motorized the propellers and have them spin. One full speed, the other slower to mimic engine problems or a sign it was hit
I think spinning propellers are a definite requirement for my next aircraft project :)
I really wish you talented people would stop calling yourselves 'nerds'. You are skilled creative artists, craftsmen, subject matter experts and entertainers. Fabulous end result. I could almost feel the heat!. Okay, now back to scraping messed up primer spray off the ME 262 model I am in the process of totally ruining.
Thanks mate - I'm glad you liked it. 'Nerd' isn't an insult though (at least not to me) - I take it to mean somebody who has invested lots of time and effort and passion into something :) I'm slowly trying to convert the world to this definition of the term :)
Outstanding job, love the attention to detail.
Quick question. Do you do the oil wash right at the end, after the matt coat ? I'm really struggling with washes at the moment. My aircraft look like they have flown through a proper shit storm.
Thanks Mr Biscuits! I put the oil wash down after the gloss coat, then when that has dried I put a matt coat down. The gloss coat definitely makes it easier to remove. To be honest I haven't really got on well with artists oils and struggle to remove them myself sometimes.
Klasse ! Gut gemacht !
Thanks!
i've seen people use tiny magnets to keep pieces they might need to remove together, maybe you could see if you can find a few that fit inside the wing.
Yes, it's a good idea, thanks. Once this lockdown is lifted and shops open again I will try to source some.
@@ModelNerd I got a packet of tiny neodymium magnets online years ago, probably off Ebay. They're discs about 2mm dia and 1mm thick. Pretty sticky.
@@RoamingAdhocrat Cheers - I'll check it out.
Very nice, love the smoke!👍
Thanks Bruno - I'm glad you liked it.
Nice job!
You have a like and a new subscriber!
Looking forward to working my way through your back catalogue and seeing what you create next!
Thank you Darren - I'm glad you liked it. Welcome to my channel!
Nice work dude
Thanks mate
I had seen some photos and movies of bombers having a fire in the engine. As far as I experience the fire is just to big. It will normal not reach back to the tailfin? And maybe some bulletsholes around the engine to show it actual had been hit with multiple bullets? But really a nice build. You are far better than I. And yes I also remember this kid from I was a boy. But that version was not so smart as your version. There were no interior but the pilot seat and a frontgunner laying on the floor in the cookpit and a roofgunner in a rotating turret where the gun could move up and down. But man.. I was so proud anyway and put a lot of playing hours into it with all my other models. But He 111 was my favorite. :-)
Thanks Henrik. Yes, I plan to add bullet holes :)
Just wondered if there should be bullet holes?
A row of dots from a 303 Browning.
I used to have loads of these on my ceiling. I once stretched a line of cotton from wall to wall and flew a B24 from it. I stood back and watched as the cotton broke and the Liberator flew nose first into the wall.
50 years ago and still vivid.
Ouch! Yeah, I think I would remember that too :-|
Brilliant!!!! Look forward to seeing the diorama with the Spitfire in chase !!!! Superb... Thank you so much for this, ah the memories of my Dad 😥😥
Thank you Shaun
That is just beautiful! So well done. Great vid.
Thanks Sven
looks awesome, well done!
Thanks a lot!
Very cool. GREAT job!
Thanks Josh
Looks great but more black for the engine fire I would say but great work
Thanks. Yes, I think you're right.
That’s an interesting effect. I think you have your fire colours the wrong way round. It should be yellow near the engine and red near the black smoke. You have made a big hot rod flame. The brighter colour near the engine might also help the lighting.
Yeah, you might be right....
Will glue be required in the assembly of the model glue ?
Try a thin piece of acrylic rod sanded on the outside and placed next to LED. This will transmit some light through the flames and smoke
Thanks Nigel, that's a good idea.
I have never done this so I have no idea how it would turn out and I never was this good a modeler but here is my idea. The starboard engine is fully ablaze and the prop is likely dead. The port engine is running but in the model the prop is stationary. Why not remove the prop and replace it with a piece of clear plastic the same diameter as the prop. You then paint a smudge on it to imitate the spinning prop. Do this by attaching the clear plastic onto a drill and spinning it. With diluted black paint you barely touch a brush to the spinning plastic from hub to tip. The paint should be really light in color as all you want is a blur. You should be able to see through the blur. On the tip you dab it with yellow for a warning. The yellow will be just a tiny tiny drop that will encircle the round plastic edge. Of course you paint the blade tips on the dead prop as well. This is beautiful but I do think you have too much cotton.
Thanks Jeff, it is a good suggestion and especially in a situation like this it does look strange that the engines are both in the same stationary state. I hadn't really planned to do the spinning prop thing and unfortunately now I am locked down and can't go out to get supplies, so I think this is a technique I'll have to try on a future build.
Lovely job MN ! More please 😉
Thanks Steve.
Love that canopy, that took some time.
Thanks William. It was actually fairly quick using the technique I described (paint everything then gently scrape away). Quicker than other methods I've tried, at least.
Great work and the fire and smoke trail is superb.This model seems like a huge improvement to the version I made in the 70s.Has it been completely retooled since then ?. Far more detail and the crew look different than the old ones.
Thanks James. Yes, I think a lot of their kits are retooled - but not all, so there are still some that can you out. I use ScaleMates.com to check what has changed between each version and make sure it isn't just a new set of boxart.
This looks fantastic! You did a great job of this
Thanks mate
great detail
Thank you Troy
Parabéns, foi a melhor montagem que já ví.
Thank you Vicente.
Clear concise , and very interesting . Many sincere thanks.
Thank you mate
Great job.
Cheers Mark
I wish i had stuff like this
Give it a crack mate - there are some nice accessible 1:72 kits that will still build up well if you're a beginner.
No my problem is the caronavirus im kinda scared it comes in the mail
To make bullet holes use a small heated nail and go across the plastic-as if it was done by a machine-gun from another plane then take silver paint and put inside the holes to make it look like the planes metal
Thanks for the tip Fred
@@ModelNerd your welcome
Cool!... innovative 👍
Thanks!
Nice. I built this kit in 1968. It came with tail swastikas like it should have to be historically correct. I'm not sure how I feel about why it is felt that historical models should not have them today. In the museums I've been to they haven't painted over the swastikas of the actual planes, accurate history is important. Nice job regardless.
Thanks mate. Personally I don't worry about the swastikas too much. The simple fact is that swastikas are illegal to display (in this context) in a number of countries, and it makes sense to produce one version of a kit rather than multiple. It's similar to many of the 80s and 90s F1 kits I build - they don't include tobacco advertising logos. Sometimes I buy replacement decals to fill them in, sometimes not.
Hey just a question from a young beginner modeller what is the stuff you painted on the decals and what does it do ? Also nice model!!
Hi - it's Tamiya Mark Set. Basically it helps the decals go down by softening them up a little bit. It's particularly helpful if the decals are on complex curved surfaces or uneven surfaces (e.g. with panel lines or rivets). Sorry, I should explain these things more in my videos :)
Model Nerd cool thanks man I might get some of that stuff . Can I get it from the AIRFIX website?
It's made by Tamiya (though other companies make similar things), so a hobby shop or online would be the best place to find it.
Model Nerd cool thanks man
get a pin and into a candle flame... then make bullet holes for the diorama! Especially round the engine.
Will do!
Awesome 👌
Thanks Gregor
Hi, great awesome, awesome video. How do you get the Ariel long stringy thing on models? I've been trying to do it for ages but don't know how. Also how do you get the panel lines so obvious and standing out so much. thanks
Thanks mate.
For the panel lines, the black base coat followed by the thinner main coat means you leave a lot of the black showing through (especially if you avoid spraying the main coat directly into the panel lines). After that, a dark oil pin wash in the panel lines worked well too.
For the aerials I use rigging string (I think designed for model ships). It's elastic and stretches easily, meaning you're in no danger of pulling the aerial masts over with the tension. Something like this: hlj.com/ultra-fine-black-lycra-rigging-20-denier-45m-145ft-pitir0201?
@@ModelNerd OK, Thanks this is useful but how do do you attach the rigging string to the plane?
A tiny drop of superglue
@@ModelNerd Oh OK Thanks. Did you go over the panel lines with anything (knife or something) before paint to make them stand out? Why did you apply a black base coat first? And what is a thinner main coat? Thanks
No, the panel lines in the Airfix kits are already quite big. The black base coat is a "pre shading" technique that allows you to have darker areas showing through by applying the main colour coat more or less thinly.
good job - interesting build
Thanks Richard
What's the RAF plane in the background of the box art?Looks like a Blackburn Skua?
I think you're right. I think the box art is supposed to represent the He 111 held in the Norwegian Armed Forces Collection, which was downed in 1940: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norwegian_Armed_Forces_Aircraft_Collection
I,m a tank nerd really,but was intrigued by something different on the picture
Obviously not a 'snap-fit' type model but I didn't notice ny glue gobs on parts when you were assembling. What glue are you using?
Hi Ross. I normally use regular Tamiya cement (the white capped stuff), but in some cases there I may have been filming dry fitting of parts.
@@ModelNerd Not familiar with Tamiya glue. Would that be liquid you apply with a brush or tube type. Thanks for the info.
Yes, it's the brush type. This is the one: www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=50330&language=en
@@ModelNerd OK, I know what to look for. Thank you so much for info
Wonderful video man I really enjoyed it. Nice music, your skills are awesome and your explanations and narrations are perfect and clear. This channel has a lot of potential. Hope to see lots of Luftwaffe and RAF builds in future :)
Thanks. I've got a Ju 88, a Hurricane, and a Beaufighter in the stash (and maybe a couple of others I forgot).
Model Nerd awesome, I recently built ICMs ju88 (revel boxing) in 1/48 and it was an awesome kit. Look forward to seeing your builds!
Kind words from the Führer himself!
Truman Ehrhorn Jawohl my friend, I am actually a lovely guy.
Awesome work.
Thanks mate.
Superb
Thanks
Good👍👍, one que atinó what colores do you use to paint the wings ( what types of green) thank you
Thanks Martin. The paint is RLM 70 Black green and RLM 71 Dark green, both Vallejo Air.
Model Nerd ok thank tou
Sick ( and an relaxing voice )👍🏾
Thanks
I did a few airfix kits when I was a kid, they were terrible quality then..... I chose to do matchbox kits instead when they came all g. Is airfix better quality now?
Yes, their recently retooled kits are excellent.
Quick question droping by
What solutions do you use for the transfers?
Hi. It's Tamiya Mark Fit
I'm assuming the battery is 1.5v? Try wiring another button battery in series to make 3v to get it brighter if it can be fitted in the wing. Also, has anyone tried soldering onto this type of battery? I think the tape adhesion will weaken quickly over time and may be another source of a weak light from the LED. Nice work though.
Hi Andrew. The battery is 3v. It's enough to power to the LED to its spec - it's just that the LED isn't bright enough really. I did try to solder directly to the battery but the very smooth surface of the battery makes it difficult for the solder to adhere.
Great vid, looking forward to the duo.
Thanks Andy
Wow, really nice work there. I was thinking maybe you could use some fiber optic cable in the trail of flame for added affect, but I suppose you've heard that one already.
Actually I haven't heard that suggestion before. I've used fibre optics in another project, but only those that provide a point of light at the end. I'll have to look into it more - thanks for the suggestion.
Did you not need any glue? Lovely job btw.
Thanks Bill. Yes, I used glue. In the video I often show dry fitting the part rather than applying the glue - usually because filming requires a slightly awkward angle and I don't want to mess it up (the model or the video!).
I think some smoke from exaust should be nice
Nice build, but the paint looked very granular or textured. How do you change the battery?
I will leave the lower half of the wing unglued so the battery can be accessed.
Micro Mark makes liquid tape. It’s a temporary adhesive. Might work for the lower wing.
Very nice presentation. New sub here. Thanks
Thanks mate
looking good ill have to get me this kit keep them coming
Thanks Gilbert. I've really enjoyed and been pleasantly surprised by the recent Airfix kits. I've got the RAF B17 and the Sea Hurricane in the stash still.
As a kid, I used to make my flame effects from clear red and yellow cellophane sweet wrappers, long before leds were invented.
Good excuse to buy some sweets too!
@@ModelNerd I used to have to wait until Christmas when my parents would buy a box of Quality Street!
How long should this take roughly?
Hard to say: maybe 5 to 10 hours to build, then 5 to 10 more hours to paint and weather? But the main thing with aircraft is there are a lot of subcomponents, so it's often a case of glue a few items together, wait for the glue to properly set, maybe prime the parts (wait for primer to dry), paint (wait for paint to dry), etc.
For the wing use small magnet that you glue.
Thanks - that's a good idea. I'll have a look for some on eBay. That would really solve the problem.
@@ModelNerd If you don't find on ebay! Aliexpress or Banggood have a very big selection.
Without Model Glue?? What kind of Plastic Glue do you use? Regards , Jörg.
Tamiya cement
great built, but to be honest it needs a tail swastika, is for historical accurasy, not political correct. well good work
Yeah, maybe. There wasn't one in the kit and to be honest it's one of those things I can take or leave - if they're there I'll use them, but it's absence doesn't particularly bother me.
You can buy 1/72 & 1/48 swastikas decals separately, several online vendors selling them
No it doesn't,that,d just be your twisted philosophy
Irving González Scale Modelling : you’re right: denying those WWII planes their Swatikas is as much a historical error as denying the existence of the concentration camps.
@@janbuyck1 It's not the same at all. The He 111, as with all Luftwaffe aircraft, were indeed tools utilised by the Nazis to commit horrific things, but they were also just that - tools, and can therefore be disassociated with the philosophy they flew for. While it would be an error to scratch the swastikas off of real Luftwaffe aircraft preserved in museums, you should be able to have a model of an aircraft without also having to bring with it that symbol, and all the connotations it implies. If you want to put a swastika on your model for historical accuracy, that's fine. If you want to have a model of a German aircraft without a swastika on it, that's also fine.
Could you add some torn up wing and bullet holes and maybe cracked glass? Really nice build btw 👍
Thanks. I'm going to add some bullet holes, definitely. For the torn up wing, I think I will save that for a future build (I already have an idea) because that would involve quite a lot of butchering of the wing and adding of metal or foil to simulate the aircraft's metal. I need to practise that first!
As a young boy I made several combat damaged aircraft and in hindsight I realized the machine gun damage shouldn’t be a nice neat line of holes. The flight paths of the 2 aircraft would literally cause the bullets to often hit in a very haphazard way.
Ok great can’t wait! Right now I’m building a 1/32 b24 liberator from hobby boss and am making it crashed on Guadalcanal
Keep up the great work
Wow! That I have to see. Sounds like an incredible diorama idea - looking forward to it.
Model Nerd thank you very much! I will be sure to show you!
Nice build. Interesting choice of interior colour though. I thought most german aircraft used grey, green more more an allied interior colour.
It's RLM 02. Like so many of these things in our hobby, there's some debate about when / where / if the interiors went from being RLM 02 to RLM 66. I went for RLM 02 because I like it more :)
@@ModelNerd Fair enough :)
Good effort, can’t wait to see it with the spit.
Cheers Robin. I've been working on it a bit today, so hopefully in a week or so....unless I get distracted...
When he was discussing taking paint off the transparent cockpit cover, what did he say it was that makes the paint softer and easier to remove?
I was just saying that acrylic paint is easier to remove (I'm not sure if this would work with enamels). I used a tooth pick to remove it.
he is using a cocktail stick aka toothpick or something similar while the paint is still wet.
@@ModelNerd Many thanks, much obliged.
Reply me plese are those paintings avaliable in the set or?
No, for most kits you need to buy the paints separately. However there are some Airfix Starter Kits which include the paints required.