I am fairly new in woodworking. Being a Nahm PTSD vet I need non confusing tutorials an am just starting my 3rd year. Hence the need for mentoring with good quality videos. Having been in sales for my working career I am quick to judge everything as awesome or junk. This is awesome. Thank you for making my being a subscriber of Woodworking Journal a good experience as I use woodworking as therapy to keep me focused.
This is a great method and it is not really necessary to mark field layout lines as once you set the table saw fence at the required distance (for instance 2 inches) it will be set for all 4 rotations of the panel; so if the fence is set at 2 inches it is not even necessary to mark out the panel at all; the field layout will automatically be exactly the same on all four face sides of the panel and exactly the same distance all round from the edge of the timber to the field area.Great video thanks.
just a tip. make your runner from two peices that lap over and the back piece drops down over your rip fence jig. Adds a consistent stability so your panels stay perfectly at 90 to the table.
Thanks for posting this. Other videos made this process look to be on par with landing on the moon. I have exactly this equipment and I'm comfortable in my shop with my skill level so I just might have to give this a go!
Thanks so much, I love your videos. I made some tongue and groove shaker style cabinet doors using your techniques from a previous video. Now I am making a gun cabinet and I may just have to up my game a little for the lower cabinet doors...
Nice job. I usually make my raised panels on the router table. I have never used the table saw before. I have a little project to make this week with some raised panels so I will give this a try. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Nice tips. Certainly will try next time I try to make raised panel doors. Questions, how deep is the groove? The groove looks off center, what is the width of the from the board edge to the edge of the groove? Lastly the wide side of the groove looks to have a bevel, what is that angle and is that angle to the back or front of the panel?
Uneven throat plates, wobbly blades, jamming, and wobbly miter guides are the norm on these portable table saws. It is unclear what value the portable table saw offers the carpenter. The dedicated table saw is the queen of the electric wood shop. Good video.
Where would I find a Tall Feather Board? All I've seen are the usual variety. I'm about to start a major redo of my old kitchen which dates back to the early 40's. The original doors are made of 3/4 " ply of good quality which I want to use. It, along with the drawer re-build, is my summer project.
wouldn't there be a problem with expansion by jamming the bevel edge of the raised panel into the grooves of the stile/rail, instead of a rabbet edge? A rabbet edge could at least expand into the groove, but the beveled edge will just crack once it expands.
I've used this method many times with raised panel widths of around 12 inches or less. Expansion was minimal at that size, so cracking has never been an issue. Some of those doors are more than 10 years old. I suppose it might be a concern with wider panels or extremes in temperature or humidity.
Thanks for this, but I have a question: If, as you say, the panels fit their grooves, " ... all the way to the bottom," they are going to split the joints of the framing, aren't they, if and when the panels swell in higher humidity?
@4:35 you can clearly see that the groove is square and doing this method makes the edge of the raised panel sloped or tapered. You will still need to hog a flat patch to get it to seat fully in the groove. A raised panel bit on a router gives a better and more accurate cut I believe. Forcing a tapered panel into a square cut groove could split your stiles and rails, would it not....
You are right, but that's why most of us would cut a shallow rabbet on the back side of the panel, allowing the panel to seat fully. The panel will move more in width than in thickness, so most often there should be no problem with splitting. When you look at most raised panel doors, you see that the fit between the panel and the groove is rather snug.
Excellent- except the Devil is in the details- namely modifying the panel edges so they will fit in the grooves in the rail/stiles. Yes, at 7:49, use a block plane and remove the bevel but generate an unsightly edge, or generate another bevel. Not as clean and ez as it looks. Appreciate all the effort.
![Raised Panel Cabinet Doors in MDF [*Ad] [video 548]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/94TGcWe7PBI/mqdefault.jpg)
Best video on the subject by far.
Well done! Clear and detailed from prep to safety to finish.
I am a building contractor in the Bahamas and i have used this in the field, just awesome . Thanks
Best tutorial I've seen on raised panel doors..thank you so much
I am fairly new in woodworking. Being a Nahm PTSD vet I need non confusing tutorials an am just starting my 3rd year. Hence the need for mentoring with good quality videos. Having been in sales for my working career I am quick to judge everything as awesome or junk. This is awesome. Thank you for making my being a subscriber of Woodworking Journal a good experience as I use woodworking as therapy to keep me focused.
love the runner idea!! It will be helpful for all upright cuts!
Great video, no loud obnoxious head banging music. The volume is perfect. The best woodworking video hands down!.
Wow great video.simple solution for raised panels.thanks for sharing
This Video is so helpful. Would like to thank the people whom put their time, And thoughtfulness in to helping us who are not knowledgeable
This is a great method and it is not really necessary to mark field layout lines as once you set the table saw fence at the required distance (for instance 2 inches) it will be set for all 4 rotations of the panel; so if the fence is set at 2 inches it is not even necessary to mark out the panel at all; the field layout will automatically be exactly the same on all four face sides of the panel and exactly the same distance all round from the edge of the timber to the field area.Great video thanks.
just a tip. make your runner from two peices that lap over and the back piece drops down over your rip fence jig. Adds a consistent stability so your panels stay perfectly at 90 to the table.
Excellent video. This is a great way to make raised panels with the table saw that look great.
Very practical method for cutting raised panels. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. Other videos made this process look to be on par with landing on the moon. I have exactly this equipment and I'm comfortable in my shop with my skill level so I just might have to give this a go!
Great video. Great detail. Nice jig. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks,This is the best Explanation How to make cabinet Doors with a Table Saw, beautiful video.
Very helpful great job on the video keeping it simple thank you
This is the best explanation,thanks Master.
Thanks Master,This is the best Demonstration and Explanation to make a Racing panel Congratulations.
Great man covers everything ,gives me confidence in my work. . Thank you. Love watching him.
Great advice, I'm going to have a go at this. Thanks Chris
I love the way you explained this. I now feel like i can accomplish this task
This is the best video I had ever seen coserning the raised panel doors
I already download this video to keep it as a refrence.
Thank You v. mutch.
Thanks Chris...makes life easier on the 3.5 inch O.G. bit...will be using combo of both
Excellent video.Thanks for the tutorial, this will help me a lot in my woodworking endeavours. Subscribed and will keep on watching. Keep it up.
there is just one word for this OUTSTANDING
Thanks for sharing this beautiful video with Excellent Explanation was a good one.
Really great video. I am a newbie but I had to put mine on the left side of the guide. My saw right tilt and it worked perfectly. Thanks for posting.
I am working my way through the same problem.
Excellent video! Just the refresher I needed to complete my project. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your pablum with us never knew you could do it that way thanks.
Thanks so much, I love your videos. I made some tongue and groove shaker style cabinet doors using your techniques from a previous video. Now I am making a gun cabinet and I may just have to up my game a little for the lower cabinet doors...
Thanks this is the most amazing video with Excellent Explanation ever, Thanks Woodworker’s Wjournal, was the best,I learn so much about!!!.
You're a very good instructor.
Thanks for showing the detail in the layout
Nice tutorial. The tip on using the scrap runner at 5:25 is very clever.
This is NOT how I did raised panels....but it is now. Thank you!
I've done this many times. It works very well.
That was indeed an excellent video. Thanks.
Nice job. I usually make my raised panels on the router table. I have never used the table saw before. I have a little project to make this week with some raised panels so I will give this a try. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Great video!
Amazing wood working
Great explanation,thanks very much
Great video friends!
Brilliant. Thank You.
Very interesting and informative
Some useful tips on this video.... thankyou
Good tip if you have to make cabinet doors. I have been making a bunch lately.
Excellent safety tips.
Thanks.
Can't wait to build my own.
God Bless
Nice tips. Certainly will try next time I try to make raised panel doors. Questions, how deep is the groove? The groove looks off center, what is the width of the from the board edge to the edge of the groove? Lastly the wide side of the groove looks to have a bevel, what is that angle and is that angle to the back or front of the panel?
Great video, do you know where can I find a tall feather board the comes up above the blade like the black on in your video?
I've been scrolling through the comments trying to find that out as well!
Thanks for your video
ur awesome teacher thank you .
Very smart thank you for sharing
great video as always... thanks.
Very well done video.
The ShavingWood Workshop n
nice video... well done and articulate
Well done mate. regards Mike
Great video. Question: Can you clarify the end grain planing technique to prevent tearout please?
I like the way you say ' Slaaawts'
Very good. Thanks.
Where did you get tall feather board for table saw please.
Great video
Uneven throat plates, wobbly blades, jamming, and wobbly miter guides are the norm on these portable table saws. It is unclear what value the portable table saw offers the carpenter. The dedicated table saw is the queen of the electric wood shop. Good video.
Good tips
Thank you for another excellent video. :)
Good job
Good video where can I buy a saw like that???
how did you do the stiles and rails?
thanks in tons u done a great job
little tool to manufacture a door 100% professional
Excelente artículo! Felicitaciones y muy feliz 2016!
Excellent
Where would I find a Tall Feather Board? All I've seen are the usual variety. I'm about to start a major redo of my old kitchen which dates back to the early 40's. The original doors are made of 3/4 " ply of good quality which I want to use. It, along with the drawer re-build, is my summer project.
Forget I asked! Please ignore my question. Old brain and new tricks don't always match-up. Great video!
I was hoping for the answer
Question ❓ what's the angle on the blade of table saw?
Where do you get a raised featherbord
Awesome!!! Feeling inspired*
you give me new ideas tank you for the tip simple but effective
i use the vertical router bits for doors
How about using a tenoning jig??
wouldn't there be a problem with expansion by jamming the bevel edge of the raised panel into the grooves of the stile/rail, instead of a rabbet edge? A rabbet edge could at least expand into the groove, but the beveled edge will just crack once it expands.
I've used this method many times with raised panel widths of around 12 inches or less. Expansion was minimal at that size, so cracking has never been an issue. Some of those doors are more than 10 years old. I suppose it might be a concern with wider panels or extremes in temperature or humidity.
thank you
Molto bravo!
Not just well-done. Great cabinets in the background! An American in Thailand...
Just wat he said u have to do the across the grain 1st an then with the grain
Thanks for this, but I have a question:
If, as you say, the panels fit their grooves, " ... all the way to the bottom," they are going to split the joints of the framing, aren't they, if and when the panels swell in higher humidity?
Offshoreorganbuilder - I think he means the panel to fit to the bottom "for" expansion, but not there for construction. Hope that helps.
I think he meant to say NOT all the way to the bottom, since that is what is shown in his hands. There was a gap of at least 1/4"
greate teacher
Thanks
very cool....
6:06 can anyone please tell me the name of that accessory? (i`ll try to make one) thx!!
It's just a stacked feather board which you can pick up on at Amazon, Woodcraft or Rockler. Hope that helps.
thanks
Good 👍👍
Excelente
Nice
That is all well an good but that way can only giv u one style
@4:35 you can clearly see that the groove is square and doing this method makes the edge of the raised panel sloped or tapered. You will still need to hog a flat patch to get it to seat fully in the groove. A raised panel bit on a router gives a better and more accurate cut I believe. Forcing a tapered panel into a square cut groove could split your stiles and rails, would it not....
You are right, but that's why most of us would cut a shallow rabbet on the back side of the panel, allowing the panel to seat fully. The panel will move more in width than in thickness, so most often there should be no problem with splitting.
When you look at most raised panel doors, you see that the fit between the panel and the groove is rather snug.
thanks a lot nw i know even not using routers.....
Excellent- except the Devil is in the details- namely modifying the panel edges so they will fit
in the grooves in the rail/stiles. Yes, at 7:49, use a block plane and remove the bevel but generate an unsightly edge,
or generate another bevel. Not as clean and ez as it looks. Appreciate all the effort.
Good
what if not having sophisticated equipment? provide alternate method.