I am fairly new in woodworking. Being a Nahm PTSD vet I need non confusing tutorials an am just starting my 3rd year. Hence the need for mentoring with good quality videos. Having been in sales for my working career I am quick to judge everything as awesome or junk. This is awesome. Thank you for making my being a subscriber of Woodworking Journal a good experience as I use woodworking as therapy to keep me focused.
Thanks for posting this. Other videos made this process look to be on par with landing on the moon. I have exactly this equipment and I'm comfortable in my shop with my skill level so I just might have to give this a go!
Thanks so much, I love your videos. I made some tongue and groove shaker style cabinet doors using your techniques from a previous video. Now I am making a gun cabinet and I may just have to up my game a little for the lower cabinet doors...
This is a great method and it is not really necessary to mark field layout lines as once you set the table saw fence at the required distance (for instance 2 inches) it will be set for all 4 rotations of the panel; so if the fence is set at 2 inches it is not even necessary to mark out the panel at all; the field layout will automatically be exactly the same on all four face sides of the panel and exactly the same distance all round from the edge of the timber to the field area.Great video thanks.
just a tip. make your runner from two peices that lap over and the back piece drops down over your rip fence jig. Adds a consistent stability so your panels stay perfectly at 90 to the table.
Nice job. I usually make my raised panels on the router table. I have never used the table saw before. I have a little project to make this week with some raised panels so I will give this a try. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Nice tips. Certainly will try next time I try to make raised panel doors. Questions, how deep is the groove? The groove looks off center, what is the width of the from the board edge to the edge of the groove? Lastly the wide side of the groove looks to have a bevel, what is that angle and is that angle to the back or front of the panel?
Uneven throat plates, wobbly blades, jamming, and wobbly miter guides are the norm on these portable table saws. It is unclear what value the portable table saw offers the carpenter. The dedicated table saw is the queen of the electric wood shop. Good video.
The two faces of the panel edge where they go into the slots of the stiles and rails need to be parallel. Otherwise (such as with this method) then when the panel expands and pushes further into the slot, the increased thickness of the panel edge being pushed into the slot causes the front and/or back of the stile/rail to break. Yes this method is easy but will only last in certain climates. In most other climates, these doors won't last long.
Where would I find a Tall Feather Board? All I've seen are the usual variety. I'm about to start a major redo of my old kitchen which dates back to the early 40's. The original doors are made of 3/4 " ply of good quality which I want to use. It, along with the drawer re-build, is my summer project.
Thanks for this, but I have a question: If, as you say, the panels fit their grooves, " ... all the way to the bottom," they are going to split the joints of the framing, aren't they, if and when the panels swell in higher humidity?
wouldn't there be a problem with expansion by jamming the bevel edge of the raised panel into the grooves of the stile/rail, instead of a rabbet edge? A rabbet edge could at least expand into the groove, but the beveled edge will just crack once it expands.
I've used this method many times with raised panel widths of around 12 inches or less. Expansion was minimal at that size, so cracking has never been an issue. Some of those doors are more than 10 years old. I suppose it might be a concern with wider panels or extremes in temperature or humidity.
@4:35 you can clearly see that the groove is square and doing this method makes the edge of the raised panel sloped or tapered. You will still need to hog a flat patch to get it to seat fully in the groove. A raised panel bit on a router gives a better and more accurate cut I believe. Forcing a tapered panel into a square cut groove could split your stiles and rails, would it not....
You are right, but that's why most of us would cut a shallow rabbet on the back side of the panel, allowing the panel to seat fully. The panel will move more in width than in thickness, so most often there should be no problem with splitting. When you look at most raised panel doors, you see that the fit between the panel and the groove is rather snug.
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I am a building contractor in the Bahamas and i have used this in the field, just awesome . Thanks
Well done! Clear and detailed from prep to safety to finish.
I am fairly new in woodworking. Being a Nahm PTSD vet I need non confusing tutorials an am just starting my 3rd year. Hence the need for mentoring with good quality videos. Having been in sales for my working career I am quick to judge everything as awesome or junk. This is awesome. Thank you for making my being a subscriber of Woodworking Journal a good experience as I use woodworking as therapy to keep me focused.
love the runner idea!! It will be helpful for all upright cuts!
Best tutorial I've seen on raised panel doors..thank you so much
Great video, no loud obnoxious head banging music. The volume is perfect. The best woodworking video hands down!.
Wow great video.simple solution for raised panels.thanks for sharing
This Video is so helpful. Would like to thank the people whom put their time, And thoughtfulness in to helping us who are not knowledgeable
This is the best explanation,thanks Master.
Thanks for posting this. Other videos made this process look to be on par with landing on the moon. I have exactly this equipment and I'm comfortable in my shop with my skill level so I just might have to give this a go!
Excellent video. This is a great way to make raised panels with the table saw that look great.
Great video. Great detail. Nice jig. Thank you for sharing.
there is just one word for this OUTSTANDING
Very practical method for cutting raised panels. Thanks!
Really great video. I am a newbie but I had to put mine on the left side of the guide. My saw right tilt and it worked perfectly. Thanks for posting.
I am working my way through the same problem.
I love the way you explained this. I now feel like i can accomplish this task
Thanks Chris...makes life easier on the 3.5 inch O.G. bit...will be using combo of both
Very helpful great job on the video keeping it simple thank you
Great advice, I'm going to have a go at this. Thanks Chris
Thanks so much, I love your videos. I made some tongue and groove shaker style cabinet doors using your techniques from a previous video. Now I am making a gun cabinet and I may just have to up my game a little for the lower cabinet doors...
Great man covers everything ,gives me confidence in my work. . Thank you. Love watching him.
Thanks Master,This is the best Demonstration and Explanation to make a Racing panel Congratulations.
Thanks,This is the best Explanation How to make cabinet Doors with a Table Saw, beautiful video.
Nice tutorial. The tip on using the scrap runner at 5:25 is very clever.
This is a great method and it is not really necessary to mark field layout lines as once you set the table saw fence at the required distance (for instance 2 inches) it will be set for all 4 rotations of the panel; so if the fence is set at 2 inches it is not even necessary to mark out the panel at all; the field layout will automatically be exactly the same on all four face sides of the panel and exactly the same distance all round from the edge of the timber to the field area.Great video thanks.
This is the best video I had ever seen coserning the raised panel doors
I already download this video to keep it as a refrence.
Thank You v. mutch.
Great video!
I've done this many times. It works very well.
Amazing wood working
You're a very good instructor.
Thanks for showing the detail in the layout
Excellent video.Thanks for the tutorial, this will help me a lot in my woodworking endeavours. Subscribed and will keep on watching. Keep it up.
just a tip. make your runner from two peices that lap over and the back piece drops down over your rip fence jig. Adds a consistent stability so your panels stay perfectly at 90 to the table.
Nice job. I usually make my raised panels on the router table. I have never used the table saw before. I have a little project to make this week with some raised panels so I will give this a try. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant. Thank You.
Excellent video! Just the refresher I needed to complete my project. Thanks!
I like the way you say ' Slaaawts'
Thanks this is the most amazing video with Excellent Explanation ever, Thanks Woodworker’s Wjournal, was the best,I learn so much about!!!.
Thanks for sharing this beautiful video with Excellent Explanation was a good one.
Excellent safety tips.
Thanks for sharing your pablum with us never knew you could do it that way thanks.
This is NOT how I did raised panels....but it is now. Thank you!
Great explanation,thanks very much
Very interesting and informative
Good job
That was indeed an excellent video. Thanks.
Great video friends!
Good tips
ur awesome teacher thank you .
Great video
Good tip if you have to make cabinet doors. I have been making a bunch lately.
Some useful tips on this video.... thankyou
Thanks for your video
Very good. Thanks.
Very smart thank you for sharing
Very well done video.
The ShavingWood Workshop n
nice video... well done and articulate
Thanks.
Can't wait to build my own.
God Bless
thank you
Nice tips. Certainly will try next time I try to make raised panel doors. Questions, how deep is the groove? The groove looks off center, what is the width of the from the board edge to the edge of the groove? Lastly the wide side of the groove looks to have a bevel, what is that angle and is that angle to the back or front of the panel?
great video as always... thanks.
Excelente artículo! Felicitaciones y muy feliz 2016!
Well done mate. regards Mike
thanks in tons u done a great job
Great video. Question: Can you clarify the end grain planing technique to prevent tearout please?
Great video, do you know where can I find a tall feather board the comes up above the blade like the black on in your video?
I've been scrolling through the comments trying to find that out as well!
Molto bravo!
Excellent
little tool to manufacture a door 100% professional
Thank you for another excellent video. :)
Thanks
Uneven throat plates, wobbly blades, jamming, and wobbly miter guides are the norm on these portable table saws. It is unclear what value the portable table saw offers the carpenter. The dedicated table saw is the queen of the electric wood shop. Good video.
Where did you get tall feather board for table saw please.
The two faces of the panel edge where they go into the slots of the stiles and rails need to be parallel. Otherwise (such as with this method) then when the panel expands and pushes further into the slot, the increased thickness of the panel edge being pushed into the slot causes the front and/or back of the stile/rail to break. Yes this method is easy but will only last in certain climates. In most other climates, these doors won't last long.
thank you that's exactly what I was thinking too!
you give me new ideas tank you for the tip simple but effective
Excelente
thanks
very cool....
Question ❓ what's the angle on the blade of table saw?
greate teacher
Where would I find a Tall Feather Board? All I've seen are the usual variety. I'm about to start a major redo of my old kitchen which dates back to the early 40's. The original doors are made of 3/4 " ply of good quality which I want to use. It, along with the drawer re-build, is my summer project.
Forget I asked! Please ignore my question. Old brain and new tricks don't always match-up. Great video!
I was hoping for the answer
i use the vertical router bits for doors
Awesome!!! Feeling inspired*
Good video where can I buy a saw like that???
Good 👍👍
how did you do the stiles and rails?
How about using a tenoning jig??
Where do you get a raised featherbord
Good
Nice
Thanks for this, but I have a question:
If, as you say, the panels fit their grooves, " ... all the way to the bottom," they are going to split the joints of the framing, aren't they, if and when the panels swell in higher humidity?
Offshoreorganbuilder - I think he means the panel to fit to the bottom "for" expansion, but not there for construction. Hope that helps.
I think he meant to say NOT all the way to the bottom, since that is what is shown in his hands. There was a gap of at least 1/4"
wouldn't there be a problem with expansion by jamming the bevel edge of the raised panel into the grooves of the stile/rail, instead of a rabbet edge? A rabbet edge could at least expand into the groove, but the beveled edge will just crack once it expands.
I've used this method many times with raised panel widths of around 12 inches or less. Expansion was minimal at that size, so cracking has never been an issue. Some of those doors are more than 10 years old. I suppose it might be a concern with wider panels or extremes in temperature or humidity.
Not just well-done. Great cabinets in the background! An American in Thailand...
Just wat he said u have to do the across the grain 1st an then with the grain
6:06 can anyone please tell me the name of that accessory? (i`ll try to make one) thx!!
It's just a stacked feather board which you can pick up on at Amazon, Woodcraft or Rockler. Hope that helps.
perfecto
@4:35 you can clearly see that the groove is square and doing this method makes the edge of the raised panel sloped or tapered. You will still need to hog a flat patch to get it to seat fully in the groove. A raised panel bit on a router gives a better and more accurate cut I believe. Forcing a tapered panel into a square cut groove could split your stiles and rails, would it not....
You are right, but that's why most of us would cut a shallow rabbet on the back side of the panel, allowing the panel to seat fully. The panel will move more in width than in thickness, so most often there should be no problem with splitting.
When you look at most raised panel doors, you see that the fit between the panel and the groove is rather snug.
thanks a lot nw i know even not using routers.....
That is all well an good but that way can only giv u one style
How thick is the panel 5 inch thick????
5/8 inch thick??? I need to convert in metric..
panel thickness as stated in the video is 5/8", stated at video using the planner