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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2024
- Replacing the inner seals on a Dana 60 front axle 4 wheel drive, 1997 Dodge 2500 Diesel 4x4. No special tools. Parts, replacement and installation parts cost was about $100. I was told this job would cost $700. Seriously, I went slow, thought it out, double checked, strategized and found this to be very simple and went very smoothly. I do have a CA vehicle so removing the hubs/half shafts was easy. I could see that being the most difficult part of this...but hopefully, my tip helps. Thanks so much!
Best TH-cam tutorial video I have saw yet. Great job
Glad it helped!
Great video. My '01 just started leaking on the driver side. 255k miles.
By far the best informative video on this subject ever made
Wow, thanks!
good video. doesnt skip any essential information. thankyou! :)
Great Video, the hole saw and the pipe helped a ton! Thanks for making this.
Ryan M my pleasure. Estimates were 800. I knew it couldn't be that difficult. :-)
Thanks for the vid! On the driver's side, I just use an attachment from one of my ball joint kits. If I were going to do the passenger side, I'd just drill a hole in the end of it.
This was really helpful! Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
For those hub bolts that are ornery or you can't get a hammer on them, you can loosen all of the bolts about 1/8" to 3/16", leave the socket on one (may need a small extension), start vehicle and turn steering wheel to act as a press. It should pop.
Interesting, thank you!
You can replace the passenger side seal w/o taking off the cover by removing the shift fork cover and use a piece of all thread and nuts along with a seal driver or that hole saw bit you made.
Drive old seal out from outside of axil housing.
Remove seal through shift fork cover.
Install all thread through end of axil housing past where the seal sits with your seal tool attached to end of all thread with nut to hold seal tool.
Then you can pull the seal in from the outside by turning nut from end of axil seal
Thank you for this alternative. My research showed that people too often over torqued the seal with allthread. I had one size leaking and just did both as preventative.
Great video! 👍🏻
Nice job.
I love you man!! I really REAAAALLLLY!! Needed this video to fix my truck!
Awesome video!! Thanks!
I guess its the same procedure for me, i have a 4x4 2001, dodge ram with that disconnect axel.
Thank you sir! If you have the same Dana, I'd think it was the same, though different years. Reply back after your completion and let everyone know please.
@@jjtt2003 I'm comparing it and its the same dana ! 🤙🤙😊, i will not only let you know when I'm done, i will be thanking your video in my channel, i will add a link to your channel and this video!
Thanks again!!
Im in the process of replacing, ball joints, wheel bearing hub, u joints, axel inner seals, and power steering gearbox. Hopefully everything will come out smooth... I HOPE!!lol
But i swear this is the only video where you are changing both seals,.... i have a question tho,... in the pumpkin are there two seals? O just the one you changed?
@@jjtt2003 hi is it hard to pull out the case of this dana60 ? And is it difficult to reinstall it ? Thank you for your answers, because I need to remove mine
@@pelvismc sorry, I have no first hand knowledge of such.
Fantastic video.
Great video!
Really helpful video, thanks!
Just to be clear, you did tap the passenger seal in through the drivers side axle, the entire width of the truck basically correct?
That is correct. If I had another pair of hands it would have been wise to include that in the video for visual clarity. Thank you for your question!
@@jjtt2003 ok thank you
Thanks for making this! Great job!
Pardon my ignorance, but the right axle is in two pieces (mid shaft)? What exactly is that rear cover for?
What kind of brake rotors are those, and how do you like them?
I believe the drivers side seal was redesigned to make it less prone to damage when doing brake jobs and wheel bearings, etc.
I've had them so long now, I can't remember. I do like them as they have not warped from overheating.
Sorry, the rear cover is the coupler cover that engages when 4x4 is selected. Inside the cover on the wheel side is the axle seal.
@@jjtt2003 very good vidéo! Are there only 2 seals in the front dana 60 F ? 1 inside and 2nd passenger ? Could you tell me if it s easy to remove carrier because I need to change bearing and seal? Thank you for your help
@@pelvismc the wheel bearings are at the far outside of the axles part of the first few steps. I mention that the bearings were recently replaced. Also, the entire assembly can be purchased so you don't have to remove the old bearings and press in the new.
@@jjtt2003 oki thank you very much
I noticed you’re replacing the seals only. I’m having the same issue on the passenger side however both the axle rods are loose. I’m guessing there are bearings in there as well that I need to replace. Do you know if I am correct or is it just the seals
The bearings are in the hub, which has to be removed to get the axles out. When I replaced my bearings, a new hub was barely more expensive than purchasing the bearings and having them removed/pressed in. Napa was where the purchase was.
How long did this project take you?
It was my first time so I went slow and steady double checking as I went. Half day.
Obviously this process applies also to Dana 44 for front 1500 4x4 models..
Never been inside a 44. ;-)
@@jjtt2003 I'm pretty sure they are nearly the same. But I'm no expert.
If you were only replacing U-joints, do you need to open the pumpkin at all? Do the axle shafts simply slide out?
Haven't replaced u-joints yet and don't have a sage answer. Sorry.
you don't have to touch the diff, just take the hubs off and they should slide out of the carrier. no c clip
No you do not have to open the pumpkin. Just have to remove brake caliper, than the hub and the Shaft will slide out.
@@justinl6507 Better late than never. I did successfully replace the front U-Joints and a few months later a tie rod. Truck steering is tight for the first time since I owned it. There is a bit of a wiggle above 70 mph. I probably should have it aligned. For now and how little I drive it, it should be alright.
Hello My name is lucas from argentina. I bought 96 dodge ram 2500 diesel 4wd heavy duty with dana 60. I have many leakage parts in the front axle. I have to change all the seal. do you know how many and wich are they. thanks
CMB Aguante 5to B, the axle only has the 2 seals replaced in this video. The cover has no seal. The back side of the differential that connects to the transfer case may have one but I don't have a leak at that place, so haven't researched that.
So if I take the differential out, can I set it back in, or do I need to reset the gear ratio,?
Following the video instructions is all that is necessary. The gear ratio won't change by removing and replacing the same part. There are videos on checking the "lash" I believe, known as the play. Mine was fine and didn't go through that in this video. Thx!
Did you have to disconnect drive shaft?
No. Good question.
so to do the passenger side only, you don't need to remove the gears? just remove the hub assembly and axle?
ryan cullum, following my method of replacing both, figuring if one side is bad, the other side will start leaking soon...the amount of room inside the shifter cover housing may or may not be big enough to tap in the new seal. If you try replacing only the passenger side seal, please respond here with any good or bad related to your install. Thx!
Also, after removing the passenger side half shaft, remove the center shaft for more room for tapping in that seal.
I had a wheel bearing go out on the passenger side and after replacing the bearing and hub assembly, the seal started to leak. so I just decided to replace the one seal. I made a tool to pull in the seal using all thread and some hardware and a 2" hole saw that I cut the teeth off of, and the tool worked like a charm. took an hour and a half from start to finish. and I didn't have to pull the gears out either. we will see if the seal stops the leak
@@ryancullum785 I also did the same..works great
.big time saver
What size was the hole saw that you used?
Alex Sealey 2 1/8"
@@jjtt2003 Great video Alex. The 2 1/8 diameter, is it outside or inside dimensions ?
@@MoraviaHunter it said 2 1/8 at Home Depot.
Dana did a good job **cking the consumer on this one. Especially leads to excessive dirt buildup in the tubes as well. No sense whatsoever. A real design flaw for sure
That's a Dana 44... 60's have a kingpins...
Not according to my research from the manufacturer.
So first off, compare your knuckles to a 44, then compare them to a known 60. There is a big difference. Next, since when did the factory ever put a one ton FRONT axle under a 3/4 ton badged truck? I know of chevy occasionally putting a 1 ton REAR under a 3/4 ton badged truck but never a 1 ton front. Also there isn't much difference externally from the 44 and 60, cept the knuckles and yours look JUST like a 44.
Respectfully, I don't have a dog in this fight. The Equipment Identification sticker says, "Front Axle (Dana 6"AND...it has the same 10 bolt pattern on the cover that the Dana 60's have at 12" high.The manufacturer put the 60's in most of their 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks, except a few gasers where they did not. Here is a link explaining what Dodge did:torqueking.com/category/1994-1999-ram-2500-3500-dana-60-front-axle/
@@FMFInnovations I'm not certain about the front axle and housing but my gen 2 Cummins 3/4 ton uses the same rear as my Gen 3 cummins 1 ton single tire (non dually). The only difference is my one ton has more leaf springs. So, yes at time they use the same components in 3/4 and one ton single tire trucks. Good point