Audi TT MK1 Quattro Restoration Subframe Underbody Overhaul Hints, Tips and Full Overview.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I discuss the process of restoring the underbody and subframes of a 2002 MK1 Audi TT Quattro. This process will be almost identical to that of a MK4 platform VW Golf R32. The video shows an overview of key areas and how you may tackle the job with part numbers highlighted throughout. Be aware that some may now be superseded, obsolete or aftermarket alternatives available. The video is not intended to be a step by step guide but more of an overview of the pitfalls, hints and tips should you wish to carry out the process yourself.
Please note many of the following nuts/bolts are recommended as one time use and should therefore be replaced each time they are removed.
Torque settings:
Rear:
Shock absorber to trailing arm (vehicle must be standing on its wheels and loaded with the weight of one person sitting in the rear seat) 110Nm
Coupling rod (drop link) to stabiliser bar: 25Nm
Shock absorber to body: 60Nm
Tightening torque for wheel bolts: 120Nm
Rear anti roll bar bracket bolts: 20Nm
Drive shaft bolts: 40Nm
Calliper carrier bolts: 65Nm
Calliper to carrier bolts: 35Nm
Disc backing plate bolts: 10Nm
Control arm bolts (inner/outer/upper/lower) 70Nm plus an additional 90deg 1/4turn
Trailing arm to mounting bracket bolt: 90Nm
Trailing arm mounting bracket bolts to body: 75Nm
Light level sensor nyloc nuts: 4Nm
Rear light levelling sensor bracket to subframe screws: 9Nm
Subframe to body mounting bolts: 110Nm plus an additional 90 deg 1/4 turn
Haldex support bracket centre bolts: 60Nm
Haldex support bracket mounting bolts:
Hex socket M10x55 head bolt, 40Nm + 45°
Hex socket M10x40 head bolt, 40Nm plus an additional 45 / turn
Aluminium diff support bracket to diff casing bolts: 60Nm
Aluminium diff support side to subframe bolts: 60Nm
Prop/drive shaft to coupling bolts: 60Nm
Exhaust clamp nuts: 40Nm
Fuel Tank Strap bolts: 26Nm
Front:
Top strut nut: 60Nm
Top strut lower nut: 60Nm
Drop link upper nut: 90Nm
Drop link lower nut: 90Nm
Brake line strut bracket bolt: 10Nm
Strut to hub pinch bolt: 60Nm plus an additional 90deg 1/4 turn
Front drive shaft inner bolts: initial 10Nm/Final 70Nm
Lower ball joint nuts: 75Nm
Subframe bolts to body: 100Nm plus an additional 90 deg or 1/4 turn
Dog bone to subframe bolts: 25Nm
Dog bone large bolt to box: 50Nm
Dog bone small bolt: 50Nm
Ball joint to hub: 45Nm (V6 roadster 75Nm)
Subframe to steering rack bolts: 20Nm plus an additional 90deg 1/4 turn
Track rod end hex nut: 50Nm
Anti roll bar clamp bolt: 25Nm
Light level sensor bracket to wishbone bolt 25Nm
Light level sensor link nyloc nut: 4Nm
Charge cooler pipe mounting bolts: 20Nm
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Tools (recommendations only as there may be variations and alternatives):
Trolley Jack
Axle stands/lift
Wooden block
Spring compressors
Haldex spanner
Wheel brace/breaker bar
Metric socket set
Spline set
Torx bit set
Allen head set
1/2” & 1/4” Ratchet plus extensions
Metric ring spanner set
11mm brake pipe spanner
10mm ratchet ring spanner
Torque wrench
Various screwdrivers
Pry bar
Wire brush
Release/penetration oil
Access to a press
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Recommended Supliers:
Autodoc
CB Auto
Carparts4Less
TPS
Pullman Volkswagen
AwesomeGTI
This is the best treatment of the topic out there. Very clear and precise and having the part numbers will save loads of time. I have a Mk 1 225 roadster that I'll be working on and will lean heavily on your work. Thank you
It’s always great to hear where parts come from and the snags people hit when doing these jobs. Good work Felix. This will be one of those videos come back to again and again when working in their own cars! 👍
Felix this sort of detail is fantastic for those of us looking to do this job. Great video please keep them coming. M
I would love the underside of mine to look as good as yours mate its a true credit to your hard work 👍
love your work, this is absolutely the best Audi TT video I've watched so far, keep up the great work. David.
quality video bud. this will help LOADS of people who want to tackle these type of jobs...hope everyone appreciates the time away from the camera, for you to note down all the part numbers for bolts/brackets etc...a lot of good, time saving information there! good job sir
I plan on doing the same with my 2004 VW Passat GL Wagon. It has a 5 speed 1.8T in it. Definitely needs attention. Been working on restoring it after being a dependable ride with very little issues throughout it's life. Great great ride...
Superb job 👏🏽 Brilliant to see the part numbers 👍🏽
Great video. Brought back some good memories of doing mine.
You done well remembering the size of all the bolts.
Felix, you the real MVP for this. A fantastic video with a breakdown of parts and all the part numbers. Absolute LEGEND. This will help massively as I start amassing parts for my suspension refresh.
This is a great video. The underside of mine is brown and all parts blend into each other. Nice detailed walkthrough here of what everything is and should look like
Such an amazing video, gotta thank you for spending the time listing the part numbers, absolute legend Felix 👍
Great video - thank you.
You showed the star washers holding the rear trays. I have the trays and the washers but the studs that the washers push onto have corroded away. Any ideas on how to replace or substitute something for the studs would be very welcome. Thanks.
Great video mate
I’m about to do my rear as well and will need all the parts you show and talk about.
Brilliant job, my 225 needs all the same work! If you’re planning on replacing any of the hoses and sensors in the engine bay videos with this level of detail would be much appreciated 🙏
Excellent video. Some really good channels now. AndyCharger, Chris just to mention 2
Great to see the work you've done!
Hi David, can you supply more under body stickers like Felix has. He says your the man. Just doing my rear end and the stickers just finish the job off nicely
Late tip, but for anyone struggling to loosen brake pipe nuts even after using penetrating fluid, get. Hot air heat gun and get the connection good and hot work the joint loose in both directions. This squeezes the softened plastic coating of the brake pipe out and relieves the pressure of the corroded zinc plating which causes the brake pipe to twist with the tube nut.
An absolutely 💯 👌 great and informative video. 👍 thanks
Your mention of steel interacting with the alluminium heat shield got me wondering if when rebuilding it might be worth considering using Duralac between surfaces. I use this on all my fixings on the mast on my boat as galvanic action between steel and alloy of the mast is blocked by this paste. Not sure if heat might be a problem with Duralac but maybe worth looking into.
Great video I did the same to my s3 8l a year ago. Just a heads up ur brake hose retainer clips are not on properly u need to press them on more
Wow great work, my car is a 2001 1.8T 225, underneath its one homogeneous piece of orange metal 😂 but anything that's been advised to be changed by the specialist has. It's got 183k miles, I'm sure it will need a subframe and bits and bats one day, but you'd never know it had the miles it has on it. It's too high mileage to do what you have done. But that's a really nice car 🚗 you have there.
My car has absolutely mint interior and paint work though ❤
The fix for holes corroded in heat shields is to cut patches/washers from ally or stainless sheet and put them under new spring washers to hold the shield in place , anti corrosion wax keeps the new washers corrosion free a bit longer
This is great and so useful, I'm currently collecting all the rear end parts.
Looking at your CAT bolts you obviously didn't remove that so assume you left the prop shaft together and still in place? Did you then pull the diff backwards to release the protrusion from the shaft? And then on refitting line that up as you raised the diff into place? If so how did that go? I had in mind the whole exhaust and shaft would have to come out but would rather wait until I get to the front end for that if possible
Cheers
Thank you what a fantastic video.
Spot on pal - Thank you 👍👌
Awesome video Felix. I have a 2WD but all of the tips are really useful. Supplying the part numbers is really helpful too as is confirming where OE parts are inexpensive. I have purchased most of my parts from EBay but from reputable brands like Febi Bilstein, Moog, Delphi, TRW etc…
I did buy some new unbranded brake Calipers, with 5 year warranty. I will probably fit these to start with and refurb my genuine calipers ready to replace if needs be.
Handy to know about jobs to do while the car is stripped down. I’m thinking that perhaps it would be sensible to do the clutch while the subframe is off?
Can you think of anything else to do while the subframe is off?
Great video and thanks for the links
I'm about to carry out this task on my own TT. One question for you. Is there any reason you put the adjustable tie bars on the bottom instead of the top? I've seen them in both locations & wondered if there's any benefit to either?
My justification is: 1. Easier to adjust. 2.the majority of the load pulling on them is on the bottom imo. 3. You can see them.
The same thought went thru my mind lol... Good answer though.. Off topic yammy, I tried to reply to a question you asked on the constant name changer channel. Sadly my reply was blocked by the channel creator!! A Google search of >> "bavariandominator @ the review centre"
Will surly put you in the picture though. Beyond belief!!!
Cracking work, great video. Did you consider a lanolin-based weatherseal on the underbody? Done every couple of years from clean, it should keep the damp out.
Cars been gone about a year now so no I didn’t. Sold it on. I’ve used Bilt Hamber clear seal which I recommend very highly over lanoguard etc.
Great vid m8 the bushes that are on the trailing arms at the rear can be pushed in with the long nut and bolt thats how i done it not having a press used a cylinder head bolt easy done
Thanks for the great video! Are those front PU strut top mounts a lot harsher in ride quality compared to the original rubber variants? And is the 10 mm lowered version even harder riding again? I've read somewhere that PU is not good at dampening vibrations compared to rubber, and I'm not wanting lose ride comfort. I would appreciate your comments on these questions.
Great video thanks
Hi Felix, Absolutely great video, and your methodical commentary is excellent, so it makes sense first time round. You really should do more video's because I'm sure you'd get a big TH-cam following in no time. However, a quick technical question please, did you replace the rear lower & upper control arm outer bushes on the trailing arms, and if you did, what upper & lower new bushes did you use and how did you replace them? Regards
Hi Chris. Thanks for the kind comments. I replaced all the bushes. I used Superpro for those ones you mention. I’m not sure what you mean by how did I replace them? Can you elaborate?
Thanks for your speedy reply. With regards to removing the old outer upper & lower CA bushes in the trailing arm, did you remove and replace them using a press, or hammer them out?
@@chrishayes4146 ah right I understand. I used a press but the new ones are two piece so after they are powder coated you just pop them straight in.
I'm sorry to trouble you again Felix, but as I'm really struggling to find the correct rear lower outer control arm Superpro bushes online, could I put in you and ask if your have the correct Superpro product number for them, Regards?
@@chrishayes4146 come to think about it I think I used lemforder outer ones and superpro inner ones. The factory outer ones are rose jointed but these seize and snap the arms. The lemforder ones are oem so are better than any other (imo). Wherever I didn’t use poly I used lemforder. Hope this helps and sorry for the confusion.
Do you have a list of all the bolts for the front rear subframes etc also where to purchase? I am restoring a 3.2V6 regards Dean
excellent job!
Hi I’m busy restoring the back end of my Golf R32, same running gear.. did you put new hubs on? If so where did you get them at, as nothing coming up for rears at europarts, so might have to sort with TPS
Fantastic video and amazing end result! Quick question...the bushes on end of the arms (the bottom arm which is adjustable and the top arm which is rectangular) do you think it possible to remove those bushes in situ and fit polybush?
I bought new genuine arms which have new bushes fitted, but the fork end im referring to. Thanks man and great vid!!
*The outer bush of rear control arms
Hi there. Thank you for the kind comments. We thinking back as far as I recall, the bottom hubs would probably be a pain because you’d need to push the old bushes out. Of course you can buy kits to do this but it’s easier off the car in a press (depending on how good your kit is). The new bushes you use if poly, will be easy to refit but I didn’t use poly on the outers which usually come two piece. I used lemforder oem ones which have a sleeve. As far as I recall they were a pain to refit as I remember us trying to do it without damaging the powder coating. I do think you could do them in situ but I doubt it would be pleasant.
Hey Felix 🙋♂️ thank you so much for your reply. I will let you know how it goes🤞
Hi Felix. Love the video and what you've done. I'm getting my old QUattro Sport back on Thursday and this is exactly what I have in mind for it. Whereabouts are you situated as I'm just near Earsdon?
Cheers mate. First job is a timing belt and water pump then have a look underneath to see how she is😎😎😎🐶
Great video mate, I live in North East and have a MK1 TT Quattro and it would be great if you want to do another video this winter on a resto to this level. I’m happy to pay you for your time, parts etc so could be a Win win. Message me back if interested. Cheers buddy and keep these great videos coming.
That’s great Felix I’d be over the moon if we both get something fantastic out of this.
I’ve started collecting OEM parts, let’s keep in touch and I’ll update where I’m at parts wise end of summer.
I live East Durham and you would be more than welcome to use car for videos you think might come in handy👍
What springs did u fit
Hi Felix, can you possibly share the sticker mans details. The ones that fit on the underside. Just starting my underside and they really do finish it off
Kr
Scott (Purple poles from Sheffield)
Top man..... you heading down to the Motorist again later this year ?
I went to the Bangers & Cash day were Jules organised a TT meet. I didn't take mine however as weather questionable and now its all clean underneath I don't want to dirty it 🤣
Is a prebook ticket event ?
Wondering if you could help. I am searching for a front subframe for a 3.2 V6. I have come across a few on eBay, which claim that they came from a 225 and they will fit the 3.2V6 will they fit? Thanks Dean
Dean, The V6 is different as the mounting points for the undertray differ from the 225, and it also has extra bracing. As Felix said, a reputable breaker will have one, probably looking around £200
Hello For a few years I was able to buy parts for my Audi Skoda VW from TPS but after a recent visit I was shown the door stating trade only after a debate with the women in charge she walked away how do you get your parts from them do you have the trade account do you think it would be a good idea for the northern folks to join together to form a buying group
Fanbloodytastic job of the underside I haven’t used powder coating just smooth hammerite to prevent my old girl going to manky the car that is😂thanks for the part numbers stay safe lad 👍👨🏻🏭
@@Felixmfox I used the Stockton on tees branch thanks 👍
@@Felixmfox thanks I will top lad 👍
Not concourse 😂😂😂😂😂
I can see 2 specs of dust !
6/10 lol ❤
The fuel filter lol that is a job see if its not leaking leave it alone i changed mine because the filter was leaking ended up fucking the fitting on the pipe from tank to filter so that was that fcuked ended up getting 8mm rubber fuel pipe conected it to the hard plastic fuel line after many hours off trying to pull it through without dropping the tank witch basically required droping the full rear end but managed to get the line through without that got new quick release connectors witch were for hard lines couple off jubilee clips job done but fuck changing the fuel filter they fittings are a complete nightmare
I ama fairly new tt owner and i am about to change all the bushes on the rear. I have been watching all the videos on how too. Then i came across yours. Excelllent explanation best video ever. Topman