▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼ 🎥 Watch Next - SawStop Full Review - th-cam.com/video/BhRXlzVesZs/w-d-xo.html Unedited Cutting Performance SawStop vs DeWALT - th-cam.com/video/T5gqfYJdIlU/w-d-xo.html 🛠 Tools In This Video: SawStop CTS Table Saw - imp.i284638.net/rnVdKy DeWALT Jobsite Table Saw - amzn.to/3ZyT2oG DeWALT Zero Clearance Insert (get one if you get the saw) amzn.to/3khRsYf SawStop Saw Stand - amzn.to/3kj4ULp SawStop Blade Brake - amzn.to/3XO2vXJ DeWALT Saw Stand - amzn.to/3ZzriAm Bow Push Stick - amzn.to/3Xu1Udf Incra V27 Miter Gauge - amzn.to/3XuEu7F Dust Mask - RZ Mask M2 - amzn.to/3CQuuO6 Dust Extractor I Use - amzn.to/3GJ816Y I Buy My Hardwood from www.wtghardwoods.com Other Tools/Equipment I'm Asked About Often: Where I get my t-shirts (mostly) www.kerusso.com Toolbox in Background - homedepot.sjv.io/x9B2xy Tool Wall over Miter Station - amzn.to/3ZgWq7B Digital TH-cam Sign - amzn.to/3GL2a2e (If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission) Other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe the 731 Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store use code 5NEWTOOLS to save 20% off your order. Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
Thanks for a great comparison. As a retired plastic surgeon who spent many years amputated mutilated digits or sewing back amputated fingers from table saw accidents, there is no doubt that the extra $600 for the Sawstop safety is eminently worthwhile! I am replacing the generic blade with a Forest Woodworker ll blade.
Glyn, thanks for sharing that. Would love to talk more about that, if you're willing. Could you contact me via my website contact form www.731woodworks.com/contact-us
43K table saw accidents per year suggest it’s not if but when it will take a digit….how many people actually use table saws all I know is it is a no brainer to buy one of these….just wish it took a dado stack for the low end sawstop…
I had a small nick on my thumb because of a distraction. It could have been much worse. A one hour round trip, $70 for a new brake unit, and $3,000 for the saw. 12 years ago totally worth it.
Worked in the ER as a nurse...and the Dewalt IS probably a better saw. But, for my little home projects the Sawstop is just fine for my needs. It really is a $600 insurance policy...and with my deductible of 3k...well worth it. Saw injuries change your life in an instant. Oh, and the Sawstop blade it comes with is pretty terrible. Upgrading it helped a LOT.
I have the SawStop Jobsite Pro saw. It's vendor supplied blade was awful too. I switched over to one of my Forrest Woodworker II's and it made a huge difference. Barely taxes the motor, beautiful cuts. And of course, as a Forrest blade, very little if any chipping on plywood edges. I did have one other issue that slowed my saw down: Out of the box, the bevel gauge was 1 degree off. Everything I cut was binding and burning badly. I saw that the gauge was off, but thought that was just an acceptable error on the gauge. I finally threw an engineers square up against the blade - woah, it was out of vertical. I went through the calibration process and that also made a huge difference too. Checked the fence after that, and it was parallel to the table top slots. Saw runs very well now. Is the saw you're working with worth the $600 difference? Oh yeah, like insurance. You pay for something you hope you never have to use, but it's there when it counts.
I ran the Skill table saw you recommended and this DeWalt. The most noticeable thing is that the 10" blade pulls far more current. I'd expect this SawStop is similar. I couldn't do that with any of the 10" direct drive saws I've used over the years. When cutting through 12/4 hickory for more than a few minutes, the Skill will pop a 15 amp breaker all by itself. 8-1/4" blades require less load on the motor for the same amount of torque so the current draw is lower. If popping 15 amp breakers, or power draw on a given circuit in general, is a concern, then the DeWalt might be a better option. I can run my extractor and the DeWalt without much issue on a single 15 amp residential breaker.
Hearing you say that the DeWalt stops faster than the SawStop made me laugh. I get that it doesn't run as long after the powered is cut, but the SawStop stops nearly instantaneously when it counts!!! 👍🏼
For the time being you buy the SawStop and live with its shortcomings. But the SawStop patents (the continuation patents currently protecting them) are expiring. If you can wait, there will be new options within a year or two. (Not sure if Bosch will be able to re-introduce their 'Reaxx' in the US at that point, maybe.)
Howdy Mr. 731.... Allow me to begin by saying....MARVELOUS video!!! Wasn't too long, wasn't too short. It was pointful (is that a word) and direct. I applaud you and your editor, well done!!! (Damn, hit the wrong button, have to edit, wasn't done talkin)... To be very specific here....A "JOB SITE" saw. Meaning, it is for the "JOB SITE"....i.e. You are a tradesmen and you travel to and from locations to perform work. This comment is NOT for the hobbyists getting into woodworking. If I recall correctly Mr. 731, you yourself was an "on site" construction worker. I'm sorry, I don't recall the details, but nonetheless, you worked "contract" work on homes being built from ground up. That being the case, so was too was I....I installed prefab cabinets from around year 2000 to 2009. I just call it 10 years in the trade. I worked very SPECIFICALLY alone. I had a few "helpers" but their quality sucked, I fired them. These are people's homes man, they spend 100's of thousands of dollars, these cabinets are important, they MUST be done correctly. Countertop people are coming in behind us, do it RIGHT the first time DAMNIT!!! Oooyyyy!!! Anyways, I could trust no one but myself to get it done, so, I worked alone. In my beginning career, I did "simple" installs. Like 13 cabinets, that includes kitchen and bathrooms. It took a few years, but I EARNED my trust with the company and I was soon installing 75+ cabinets in million dollar houses, BY MYSELF. Would take me 2-3 days depending on detail. Very RARELY would I be called back from the inspector to correct something. Point I'm getting at is...I've worked "JOB Sites". And ya know what....there most usually is NOT a driveway for you to walk up, or sidewalk for that matter....There is a TON of crap between you (your vehicle with tools) and the house of which ontop of trash and discarded wood from framers with nails pointing out in all directions, you've got MUD to deal with and so help me...It was almost ALWAYS wet sticky mud. And, you're not always the first trade to show up on site, so parking right in front of the house didn't happen much. That means you gotta carry BY HAND (cause ya can't use a dolly through mud) """ALL""" of your tools from truck to inside the house. Sooo, case in point....The lighter your tool, the less energy you use. You've got a 10 hour cabinet install....do you want to lug a 80lb saw 50 yards through the mud and navigate the mine field of scrap lumber then turn around and make 4 more trips to get the rest of your equipment? Ohhh HELL NO!!! I used a $99 Delta tablesaw/jobsite saw and it weighed maybe 30lbs. My Dewalt miter saw weighed more (or so it seemed) (still have that miter saw btw). Not ONCE did I ever stop and think, "Geee, sure would be nice if I have a HEAVIER tablesaw that would instantly retract if my finger touched the blade". And then...I'd have to replace a brake too? As for the 10" blade vs. the 8.5 blade....That's just total nonsense. When and how often do you need 3 1/8" blade exposed for cutting? Not very often at all unless your trade is building Decks and you're using 4x4's, but if that's the case, then your not using a tablesaw for that anyways. Dado cuts??? Again, if your purpose was a saw for the jobsite....it's very unlikely you're going to be doing dado cuts so that's mute point. The only dados you'd be doing on a job site are for VERY high end houses and if you're doing work on those types of houses, neither of these saws are on your truck anyways. So, in the end...it's about weight, quality of cut/accuracy and durability AND functionality with minimum maintenance. Dewalt gets a "check" on all 4. Sawstop gets a check on ONE, accuracy. Dewalt is under HALF the cost of Sawstop and fulfills ALL requirements. That's "Jobsite" comparison of the 2 brands. Personal shop and hobbyists....Well, that's a conversation for the stadium next door, cause that's a whole different sport.
I got a sawstop specifically for that reason (and also precision. Dewalt is not the easiest to calibrate in some ways if it goes out of alignment). But evaluating whether I would feel a loss of a digit - the answer was a resounding yes - in very many ways - so that factor made it worth the premium.
I appreciate your candid approach when explaining what you are trying to accomplish with ease. Well done video sir. At 71+ yrs old I am learning about woodworking and find it extremely calming. Thank you for the presentation. The Dewalt Job site saw is on my wish list. Take care - Be safe 😎
I'm in the market for a small table saw and these are the two I'm looking at. The way I'm thinking about it and why I'm leaning towards the SawStop is "If I lost a finger today I'd absolutely pay $600 to get it back". But damn, for $300 that Dewalt seems like a fantastic saw! My janky Ryobi miter saw cost that much!
Using the blade guard on your table saw will reduce your chance of injury. I would have liked to seen this test with the blade guards installed. You can use a track saw for a lot of cuts, further reducing the possibility of injury.
As an airline pilot that likes to dabble in woodworking, the extra money is worthy its weight in gold. $600 vs a career earnings loss isnt even a second thought. I like your insurance comparison and I think everyone who can reasonably afford this safety feature should get it. Even better, we need to mandate saws come with some version of this going forward.
Saw blade manufacturers recommend speed ranges (10-18k) for blades and this is done in SFPM (surface feet per minute). The larger the blade, the faster the teeth on the edge are traveling, so that RPM number is directly related to blade size. You can find this number by multiplying the circumference (blade size * 3.14) by RPM and dividing by 12 to get to feet from inches. In this case, the speed of the teeth on the edge of the blade are both on the low side of that range. The motor and saw blade are the variables that matter the most here I think. Your circular saw might be 6,000 RPM and 3 HP professional cabinet saw might run at 3,500 RPM. A Makita 16" timber framing circular saw runs at 2,300 rpm. The Ryobi 8 1/4" reconditioned table saw that's a whopping $60 at Direct Tools right now runs at 5,600. Etc. The almost proprietary blade size was necessitated by safety regulations that maintain certain table size blade height ratios etc. 8 1/2 in blades are pretty common on miter saws and it's surprising that they couldn't make that work, or maybe it was on purpose, who knows. The DeWalt saw is simply the smallest saw they can make and they make a bigger one with a 10 in blade if that's what someone needs. This one is incredibly cheap and portable. I have two of them and a Sawstop PCS in my garage. I'm sure there were a bunch of guys like me who found the Jobsite Pro to be huge and take up too much space in their truck or van or trailer and went back to this little guy, so Sawstop got into the compact game as well. I wouldn't recommend either one of these saws to a hobbyist.
Dewalt has a 10" saw that I recently purchased for $649. It came with a folding stand with wheels and it had the same features as the 8.25". It also accepts a dado stack.
I came here to mention the same. I bought the 10” blade DeWalt saw (model dwe7491) can take a MAX of 8” blade dado, set to a MAX WIDTH of 13/16ths. You will have to either order an aftermarket throat plate or make your own. I bought my saw with the rolling stand and it totaled to about $670(including tax)
@@DoobyDular I'll note that the $900 Sawstop Compact explicitly doesn't accept dado sets, because stopping one would rip the mechanism apart. You need to go up to the $1600 JSS model to have an equivalent to the $650 DeWalt. And the SS JSS uses an older style of fence, not rack & pinion. @Ricochet845 You can get CNC-cut Melamine/MDF zero clearance plates for the DeWalt on Amazon at ~$20 for a set of four.
I just got the Dewalt from HD after watching your review. Thanks! I got the DW7485WS (with stand). Was cheaper than buying the saw & stand separately. Love your videos!
Just got the DWE7485. I have not set it up yet. Thank you for the review. I agree the blade stop is a nice feature, but for the amount of time that I'll be using the saw, not worth $600.
May be a comparison between 10" versions of both saws would be useful. It would also be helpful to put blades that you would recommend on both saws. Thank you for a very interesting comparison. BTW, the Sawstop seems MUCH quieter.
You can not get a 10" blade compact table saw anymore, unless it has a blade stopping technology. That change happened a little over 2 years ago. I think this situation is comparable to the code changes in regards to building decks. I'm sure that Simpson and Sawstop both had some influence in these decisions. I miss my bosch compact 10" saw. I've owned two of them, and they are great. I have purchased two of the worm drive skils, they are decent, but don't hold a candle to my bosch saws.
You're right! Lots of people have accidents on table saws... ESPECIALLY WHEN THEY'RE NOT USING THE BLADE GUARD! It's really a shame that you didn't take the time to review and compare the blade guards that come with both saws. If the blade guard is easy to install and works well, you're more likely to use it and may have less need for SawStop's flesh-sensing technology. It might be interesting to see whether you could push that sweet potato into the blade on the DeWalt with the blade guard installed.
I use a blade guard every cut that allows it for safety and dust collection. Unfortunately, there are a lot of cuts that don't allow them. Dado(and yes i know you cant use dado blades on thse 2 saws but you can still do dado cuts), rabbit, bevel cuts, cuts too close to the fence. And you can't always use the riving blade. Lots of videos of saws pulling hands into the blade on odd cuts.
Lol the blade guard causes plenty of issues also, can reduce visibility which is even worse, tell me you've made hundreds of cuts and definitely not in the thousands. It's okay some people trust Home Depot's panel saw to cut their project.
Thanks for an honest and well done review of these two saws. When you stated that you had to replace the brake system, a couple of questions jumped to my penny pinching mind.....1. How much does a replacement brake assembly cost? 2. How much does a cartridge cost. I looked and discovered that the cartridges cost at least $100.00 and that the cartridge must be replaced every time that this auto stop feature is engaged. I was surprised at both of these answers. Thanks again.
Both those saws are $300. The SawStop safety features add $600. Like you mentioned, my left thumb tangled with a spinning blade last year. After 7 stitches and a plastic surgeon, my bills totaled $6,000.
@@artv4nd3l4yonly a fool thinks an accident can't happen to him. Every single day people suddenly pass out, have heart attacks, strokes, seizures; a kid or dog or even adult walks into the room and bumps into you, the list goes on of things you can't anticipate.
Dewalt living up to there name. I had one when I first got into building. Thank you, you convinced me in the Delta and been building like crazy. Thank you boss hog.
Thanks for the video and perfect timing. I am setting up a shop at a second home and don't want to buy another full size saw like my old Delta. I had not considered the jobsite saws in the past, and bought used contractor saws. For the price the DeWalt looks like a winner.
I lost part of my thumb in a table saw accident. Definitely having the saw stop would have saved it. Stay safe fellow wood workers/ construction workers
@@maxperis7542 bro a few years ago I had a serious kick back right in the gut, I thought I was going to lose an organ man. Last year I was pushing a piece of material on my table saw and the plate broke before I realized but no injuries. I learned the hard way one saw no protection I got hurt bad, the second saw had all the protection not even a scratch. Most carpenters trash all the safety gears upon opening the box, some refuse to even install the riving knife so we get hurt. So a company like Saw Stop sell us what OSHA already mandates all current table saws manufacture be safety compliant. In the video ask Mr. 731 where is all the safety devices for the DeWalt?
@@rickyperkins232 definitely, my accident wasn't at my home shop it was on the job site, which I understand its always on the individual to take control of their own security but in the heat if the moment on a residential job site shit happens. I'm definitely a lot more careful now haha
Sorry to hear that sir!!!! I’m stuck between the two. But your words making me go with the saw stop!!! Something you have to live with everyday. Thanks for sharing your story.
Still recovering from putting my hand through the table saw. I would like to think I am on the higher end of care taking when woodworking, but apparently not careful enough. Did it turning the 10 inch dewalt table saw off after starting a basic straight 13mm plywood cut but something wasn't right. Looked down at the switch, clicked off, didn't feel anything. then the realism kicked in that I had gone hrough my left hand fingers somehow. Spent a lot of emotional time looking at blood trails, cut direction and anything I can think of trying to figure out exactly what I did. No luck. 9 days in hospital, now 11 weeks down the line. Very life changing. Just wish I had known that the sawstop saws were actually somewhat affordable these days. Thought they were still only selling the full size one for like 20,000. Can't really afford it but getting a compact one. It's the only way I will keep making furniture and I love it. Just thought I would share in case it swings even one persons decision. Biggest regret of my life. Don't be like me. You won't see it coming. No dado stack compatibility absolutely sucks but worth the other single feature.
I bought the skillsay 10 inch portable twble saw over a year ago, and it works great. Bought on sale. Sometimes more expensive isn't always better. Sometimes it's quality rather than name.
I recently purchased the Dewalt saw. It was a big step up from my brand X saw and that was what I was looking for! I like the saw for all the reasons state here and the Dewalt table saw stand make it the perfect height.
Personally, I run everything DeWalt. They make quality tools that get the job done (calm down Milwaukee fans, I didn't say your tools were worse - they're good too) but when it comes to table saws, I'll always run a SawStop. Sure you can do everything to be safe on any saw, but there will always be risk, which is why I like the additional safety that comes with a SawStop. I'd rather have to re-cut a piece or replace a blade than go to ER to stitch up a stub where my finger once was. I do still absolutely agree that for that price, they should be sending a better blade, have a longer warranty, etc. The safety feature is worth the additional price, but that's no excuse to cut cost elsewhere.
I have a Milwaukee battery operated table saw with an 8 1/4 blade and have had no issues whatsoever ever. The blade stops in under a second when turned off, it will also hold a Dado set, and has all of the features of the Dewalt saw and it's price is in between the two price points show here.
I had to do the math since a 10" blade would have a higher speed at same rpm as an 8 1/4" blade. I calculated about 176 ft/sec for the 10" blade at 4000 rpm, and 206 ft/sec for the 8 1/4" blade at 5800 rpm. So that explains why the Dewalt saw feels smoother. Would be next to impossible to test, but maybe the lower rpm helps with wear & tear over time?
I just ordered the CTS I have a shop that goes to a 12 x12 give or take small back area of the basement then the garage in the summer months and I cut the tip of my finger at work about 12 years age I still have the nasty scar on the tip where it folded over they were able to glue it back together but I have a constant reminder, it’s kinda numb I just figured I would want one also after showing my wife the demo video of the saw stop then showing her my finger again
FYI You should bring up the fact that a 10” blade and 8” blade spinning at the same rpm will have totally different “rim speeds”. 10” blade will have higher speed at the rim and more teeth passing thru the cut point than a smaller diameter blade. So it’s not just rpm you should consider Good solid review thanks
Thank you for the comparison. Really helpful info. I bought the 10" version of the DeWalt contractor saw with no stand. I'm not too happy with it. The blade has slight run-out, no matter what blade I use. So, I guess it's in the shaft. Also, the fence is not perpendicular to the table and there are no adjustments for that, it is a fixed position. About 3/16 off from top to bottom. I've seen several other posts on TH-cam about the same exact thing. I really like tool reviews. Thank you.
The DeWalt stock fence can be pretty bad and has no built in way to adjust. Mine was not only not square to the table, but actually had a twist down the length of the fence. I ended up disassembling the fence, threw away the warped extrusion, kept the two mounting brackets, and attached the brackets to a length of 80/20 framing instead. I also tapped some additional holes in the brackets for set screws to allow micro-adjusting the fence angle. Now it's as square as I can measure, with the added bonus of easily being able to attach sacrificial fences and jigs to the 80/20 profile.
I got a Dewalt 10" jobsite table saw and I can definitely adjust the fence on it, it has Allen bolts you loosen up and they will slide in the rail. Pretty sure Dewalt has-been doing it this way for awhile now as my saw is already 4 years old
@@brucehansen7949 Thank you for the reply. My 10" saw is new and there are no adjustments on this fence. I have googled it and watched some TH-cam videos complaining about the same thing. Maybe the older saws had adjustments, but I promise this one does not. I appreciate the info though.
@@spenegdt well you might wanna return it to the store and look for a used one like mine? Or modify and make your own fence. To be honest the fence on my Dewalt is a bit chancy, cheap aluminum. It works, don't get me wrong... but it could be better, hope you are able to work it out with yours
I love my Dewalt 7480. I've had it since 2016 and have no issues. It has a 10in blade. It cuts everything I need it to. I was thinking about getting the Sawstop, but it doesn't seem to justify the price. I would probably look at the contractor saw instead. While not exactly the same, for me, the saw just sits on a custom bench I made. So, it's basically just a stationary saw for me anyways. I was thinking while watching the video that Sawstop should have just partnered with Dewalt for their small saw. Give the Dewalt a sawstop break. That would be a great small saw!
I picked up the DeWalt and was able to finish some 2" cedar slabs for floating shelves and 1" cedar planks for the face of my kitchen island. Plenty of power, nice smooth cuts. And I still have all my fingers 😁
@ 13:19 at the cabinet supply house they call it paint grade china white birch. But sometimes we use it with stain. Birch for stain is alot expensive. By the way I am a black and yellow team. I have the 32.5 inch max rip with will and the very small 10" max rip 24 inch saw. I love them and still got the first generation dewalt portable table saw 20 18 years a Old and still kicking @$$. Good video.
As someone who takes X-rays of people, if I've learned anything about power tool accidents, it's the distractions that will get you. One trip to the Emergency Department will cover the difference in costs. That's not counting if you're hand is permanently damaged. Your choice. And then there's workman's comp which will never go down
On the Sawstop CTS... I have one. One thing to note: if you get an out of box failure, Dewalt will do an exchange. Sawstop will NOT. I experienced the difference. While I like the saw, the nearly 2 weeks of downtime while holidays, weekends, shipping and my time to install the repair parts was frustrating (blade couldn't lift). Honestly, I don't know that I would do it again, simply do to the lost opportunity from buying it, due to losing a 3 day weekend set aside for projects and the hours sent in doing the repair.
I have the Dewalt 10" saw, $600. Most of what that Sawstop offers is negated or exceeded by stepping up to the larger Dewalt saw. It can take a dado stack, and only still lacks the micro adjust. for a 3-400 price difference, it's even more lopsided, imo. The Sawstop offers the brake cartridge, really, and thats all.
Great objective review. One quick point - I used to have the 10" DeWalt table saw (DW745), and loved it. I moved up to the SawStop CNS for multiple reasons (certainly safety). The blade that came with the SS was "less than adequate." I installed the Forrest Woodworker II blade that came off my DeWalt, and the difference was night and day on the SawStop. The DeWalt you reviewed won't accept those high end blades, which don't come in proprietary sizes (at least not that I've seen). Big point, IMHO, since the Forrest blade literally erased that "resistance" you experienced.
@@bkp100Yeah you looked like the type of guy that needs that sort of thing, make sure to update your pronouns too friend, bad things can happen otherwise, and enjoy the table saw.
@@artv4nd3l4y Yeah... and you're the type of guy that resorts to personal BS when you have nothing substantive to respond with... oh, I don't do pronouns, genius...
As an owner of the DeWalt, I can't say I would never consider the Sawstop, but I wouldn't switch for the extra $600. Yes, we all know of the potential dangers of ANY saw, but I've been sold on this little DeWalt saw since day one. I'd never say the DeWalt is a "better" saw since I don't own the Sawstop, but I have serious reservations that the Sawstop is built or can perform any better. Especially with the types of cuts I make personally, and that's obviously going to vary from person to person. Good review.
For those who are starting out with wood working, and need to find a good affordable, reliable table saw... I highly recommend the newer Craftsmen 10 inch table saw ( I don't know the model number right off hand. I do know there are two newer models out. The 10 inch, and a smaller job site saw. I do not know the blade size off hand).. I been using it quite a bit here lately installing hard wood flooring. The fence is actually pretty impressive and the blade that comes with the saw is surprisingly good...From my experience.. Keep in mind, it only has standard safety features that come with most table saws. I completely understand that Saw Stop has an amazing safety feature on it... I just thought I would make a suggestion for an affordable reliable table saw.... When I bought it, I paid right around $219.00 I believe. Prices may vary a little now.
12:35 I am just getting into woodworking as a hobby to bring. In a little extra money and am limited on space and I picked up the DeWalt Flex volt job site 8 1/4 inch table saw and absolutely love it! So the haters can hate! Oh and I believe I picked it up at a super bargain price brand spanking new in box from HD for $280
Thanks for the insights, Matt. Food for thought. That 10" blade has more surface area and teeth in a cut. Both add to the load on the motor and between that and the lower RPM of the motor give the sense of it bogging down. I'm not spending 900 on a bench saw, all said. Finger saver or not. But then I did get a Grizzly 5 hp cabinet saw on the used market for a significant mark down. It needed TLC and some parts, but it is great at holding down the slab in my garage and manufacturing huge heaps of sawdust. I loves my tablesaur and it chews through tuba fours and sixes like they aren't even there.
I am no saw expert, but from the car world and tire/wheel dynamics, it may not be just surface area and teeth, but when you are using different diameters a HUGE factor is leverage (axle distance to teeth/tire/brake rotor edge) and edged speed. Maybe that explains some of the cutting test results and comments in the what was it 8 1/2" vs. 10" comparisons?
I'm so happy with the delta. I never put a table saw together and had some unbelievably frustrating steps, but once together and a small amount of tweaking, it is dead accurate. I couldn't be happier with this thing. I'll get a harvey when my skills improve
That adjustment knob on the angel wheel (on the saw stop) is one of the best features I’ve ever seen on a table saw. I think the saw stop is a better saw, it’s hard to say that it’s $600 better. If you get a new blade for each saw I think saw stop would be even better
thank you again. I really ought to be doing other things but I am watching your content for research purposes and because I enjoy watching and listening...not meant to sound creepy stalkerish by the way. I am torn as I really could use a table saw but I am also yearning after a single bevel, sliding mitre saw. Decisions decisions. I was decided on the De Walt until I watched the end part. Hmmm
After watching the comparison, The Dewalt is a better saw over all. It just depends on if you want to chance not having that $600 added insurance the SawStop provides. The technology in that brake is what makes it cost $900
I love the DeWalt battery table saw. It’s 8-1/4” and is a great portable saw. I have switched to nearly all battery tools for my job site tools and haven’t looked back. Batteries are just so convenient as you never have to look for a receptacle. I also have the 10” DeWalt which along with their portable power pack allows it to run off batteries as well and allows for running dado blades. This really isn’t a fair comparison as DeWalt makes a compact table saw which also accepts a 10” blade; these 8-1/4” saws are really more of a sub-compact that can be put right on a table or floor close to where you’re working.
Would be interesting to see a side by side comparison of that Dewalt vs the Skilsaw you recommended a few months back. They’re about the same price and very similar in design, apart from the 10” blade on the Skilsaw. Curious what pros and cons there are between them.
@@Not3xactly You mean the DWE7491RS? Ya, that's a really nice saw from what I've seen. Never used it but it looks like a step up from the one in this video.
@@daifeichu yeah I'm trying to see if it's worth upgrading my 7485. Besides the dado stack, the major difference is the bigger blade, the cut capacity and the 7491 is a tad bit bigger
Yeah agreed, both saws look like really solid deals, I'd be interested to hear if there was any feature of either one that would sway a decision. The Skil I believe has legs vs the flat bottom of the DW but I don't know that that's a deal breaker. Anyone know the rpm of the Skil?
I’ve ripped cut 5/8 inches thick on a sawstop and I used dewalts I think they give you the stick so you never brings your hands anywhere near the blade or try to grab woods while it’s still spinning. Safety is important no matter what saw you use.
Thanks for this side by side comparison! I have the 8 1/4 DeWalt and I was totally happy until I attempted to cut tenons on it, by sneaking on the final tenon thickness. I made many attempts but it seems the blade drops just a tiny little bit after a few cuts and adjusting it to get a uniform tenon thickness was quite impossible. That problem and also the safety feature is what made considering the Sawstop. Also I find the top of my DeWalt is not completely flat and I cannot get 90 degrees on both sides of the blade at same time. Using my digital angle finder gives different readings when changing its location on the top (up to 0.5 degrees variations).
Would love to see your review of the dustless Sirocco table saw. No dust collection needed (shop vac or big dust collection unit.). Amazing if you work indoors on a job site.
I have the dewalt 10" and with respect to the onboarding tool storage I would prefer the way dewalt does it. Mainly because I dont have to take a box out and use workbench space. Just something I didn't hear you mention.
I have 10” version of Dewalt. The fence is great, no issues with power. BUT dialing in a bevel cut is a pain. You can set limits at 90 and 45 but I would say they are positive “stops” because you could be just short of the limit and not know it. Getting a perfect 90 or 45 is finicky. I also noticed my dust collection hose fits snugly on the dust port (good thing) but I think the action of putting the hose on and off has moved the housing so the blade is no longer parallel to miter slots. Easy fix but annoying.
I'm wondering why you chose the 8 inch DeWalt saw instead of the 10 inch to compare to the SawStop? That would have been a better comparison, I think. The 8 inch is to the SawStop like apples is to oranges.
I’ve had the Dw7485 for a few years. I think it’s a good saw all around, however I had issues with the fence. My fence had a bow in it where there was about .020” of play towards the middle of the fence. Having some sorry of micro adjust to true the fence and blade would be nice BUT it is $300 saw.. I really just do projects around the house so can’t justify a cabinet saw for the space
Even some experienced woodworking TH-camrs have had the Sawstop save their fingers and that is why I will spend the small fortune required for a SawStop table saw. As any claim adjuster will admit, the price they would give for the loss of a finger is significantly more than $600. I would have liked to see how they both respond to the blade you would recommend, and from what I have seen the cost of a replacement blade is more for the Dewalt than the SawStop.
I have the 10" version of the DeWalt, and it DOES take a dado stack, up to 13/16", according to the manual (I haven't tried a dado yet, just got it last weekend). Mine also came with a folding stand, so the saw is a much higher price than $300 ($650, currently). I need transportability due to my shop setup, so a folding/rolling stand is a MUST for me. And the Sawstop equivalent is higher still by more than $1000 (because of the higher cost, and additional shipping I'd have to pay). Almost $2k by the time it's all said and done.
Hi, thanks for the in depth comparison. I wonder, at 14:39, what's the name of that song? Can't figure out where I heard that, but it rings a bell and I'd like to find-it :)
Rotational weight is energy expensive. I'll save you the math (unless you ask) but 4,000RPM 10" from the arbor is faster cutting than 5,000RPM 8" from the arbor. It's that whole two-pi-r thing. The saw-stop safety feature is great, and yeah, $600 is a lot less than the $1,500 ambulance ride and then the reattachment, blood units, and months of finger therapy. If it's an inferior saw, then we're comparing bad apples to incomplete oranges. I'd rather find a SawStop™ that beats the DeWalt. (I own that DeWalt JS TS btw). I'll continue to follow standard safety protocols for now, and avoiding downgrading my TS and adding $600 to its cost. Maybe one day SS will offer a product to entice me to switch. In the meantime thank you for your in-depth summary. *Goes to click like and stuff. *
I haven’t had many problems with corded DeWalt tools but the batteries for basic battery operated tools is I have more defective batteries than any other brand we own craftsman Milwaukee, Rigid , Mikita
The blade height could make a big difference in a small shop like mine. Without a band saw the table saw is my only way to resaw boards. (Can't do what Wood by Wright does by hand!) With a 3-1/8 deep cut you can resaw a 6-1/4 inch board vs 5 inches with a 2-1/2 inch deep cut (cutting from each side). That could make a difference on some projects, including my most recent. A band saw would be nice, especially for the thin, smooth kerf, but if you're talking tools for a budget, a band saw with a 6"+ resaw capacity is going to not be real cheap from what I see.
I wish you’d review the SkilSaw Worm Drive SPT99-11! Your review on the Skil recently got me to look at it and this more expensive version. Would love your opinion on it
For me, sawstop wins hands down. 30 years ago, I had a tablesaw accident and removed part of my thumb. One lax moment at the end of a day, and it effects the rest of your life. Saving your hands vs 600 dollars is a no brainer. People who think it can't happen to me are really kidding themselves
Please use a proper push stick one that extends over the top of the page that would hold it down. I saw one segment you almost had it with flip up and that would’ve been very dangerous.
My 10" saw just burnt up and I've ordered the 8.25" dewalt. I was reluctant to go with less than 10" but even the $900 10" saw won't rip a 4x4 in a single pass. I don't get why that is the norm. Just like its easy to find a $700 floor drill press with less than 3.5" of travel. The size of the blade doesn't matter to me if I still have to rip 4x4s in two passes.
Three months ago I had a horrific accident on my table saw. I’ve been a professional carpenter for 16 years and it took one second to destroy my hand. Three months off of work, multiple surgeries and months (possibly years) of physio, as well as a hand that will never function the same, Saw Stop is now the only table saw I will use. I just picked mine up last week when I went back to work again. You DO NOT want to go through what I’ve gone through. I’m not only a carpenter, but a father and a musician. This one second mistake will affect every aspect of my life for the rest of my life. Spend the extra money. Get a Saw Stop.
I wish the sawstop was available in the UK. I can only found it for about 3000$ with stands... Don't understand why, they would sell tons it looks so good
I currently have a 1971 Sears Radial Arm saw; I am looking to replace it with a table saw. What does everyone think, so much more how-2's and easier ripping.
One thought, if you are going to do a 10" vs. 8.25" saw comparison, & bring up rpm vs. torque, some comment or information on the geometric effects on radial tooth speed &/or leverage arm torque would help. Great video, thanks. As another commentator pointed out there is also a change in area of blade contact and possibly # of teeth?
I'm right at the beginning... Where you said saw blade size. I'm going to guess the result... DeWalt did slightly better but saw stop had more depth of cut? Will continue watching with pop corn.
So if i am correct the 8 1/4" DeWalt has being discounted so for best comparison we will not see the 10" DeWalt. Now where is all the safety gears that came with that DeWalt? Can we say "In the trash can somewhere at the local dump"
@@rickyperkins232 huh? Sorry don't know much about specific model numbers.... Know lots of DeWalt 8 some odd inch job site saws are available still ... Realistically though side of all the TH-cam bs technicality arguments and counter arguments and semantics .... Most all 10 inch saws are the same.... Minus a few special features as far as 15 amp motors go. What surprises me is that after it got called out now saw stop is claiming 15 amps when just a few weeks ago it was claiming 13 amps. But if they say so they say so. I'm not one to argue. As far as trashing safety equipment.... There really are only 2 that matter... Push stick ( and god how I personally dislike 731s btw ... Personal taste though) And Riving knife \ blade guard. Personally I'm not a fan of saw stops as it scratches delicate materials with it's kick back pawls. But as they can be removed it's not much of an issue. Not sure why your talking about trash cans though
10 inch x 3.142 x 4000 rpm = 125,680 inches per minute/12 inches /ft = 10,473 ft per minute/5280 ft per mile= 1.984 miles per minute cutting speed of teeth 8 1/4 inch x 3,142 x 5800 rpm = 150,344 inches per minute/12 inches /ft = 12,529 ft per minute/5280 ft per mile = 2.373 miles per minute cutting speed of teeth, What you did not determine in the video was whether both saws had an equal thickness of kerf on the blade. A thicker kerf would have made the SawStop slow down while cutting. By determining the circumference of the blades x rpm gives the cutting speed of the teeth. It gives you I feel a better insight to how the blade interacts with the wood. I realize this comparison is about how these saws perform right out of the box side by side so kerf blade thickness is not part of the consideration, as you are evaluating these saws as they come from the factory. I would like to have seen the potato test done with a half inch piece of pine with the potato on top of the pine board as it would have shown a better evaluation of how well the SawStop works in preventing injury. Would having wood between the soft flesh, the sawblade and the saw table have any impact on the SawStop's safety mechanism? I ask this not to be a critic but because I am a curious monkey:)
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DW7491 is out of stock everywhere.
Thanks for a great comparison. As a retired plastic surgeon who spent many years amputated mutilated digits or sewing back amputated fingers from table saw accidents, there is no doubt that the extra $600 for the Sawstop safety is eminently worthwhile! I am replacing the generic blade with a Forest Woodworker ll blade.
Glyn, thanks for sharing that. Would love to talk more about that, if you're willing. Could you contact me via my website contact form www.731woodworks.com/contact-us
DW7491 is out of stock everywhere.
43K table saw accidents per year suggest it’s not if but when it will take a digit….how many people actually use table saws all I know is it is a no brainer to buy one of these….just wish it took a dado stack for the low end sawstop…
What is a couple fingers when you have 10 of them or 20 if you're dumb enough...
I had a small nick on my thumb because of a distraction. It could have been much worse. A one hour round trip, $70 for a new brake unit, and $3,000 for the saw. 12 years ago totally worth it.
Worked in the ER as a nurse...and the Dewalt IS probably a better saw. But, for my little home projects the Sawstop is just fine for my needs. It really is a $600 insurance policy...and with my deductible of 3k...well worth it. Saw injuries change your life in an instant.
Oh, and the Sawstop blade it comes with is pretty terrible. Upgrading it helped a LOT.
I have the SawStop Jobsite Pro saw. It's vendor supplied blade was awful too. I switched over to one of my Forrest Woodworker II's and it made a huge difference. Barely taxes the motor, beautiful cuts. And of course, as a Forrest blade, very little if any chipping on plywood edges.
I did have one other issue that slowed my saw down: Out of the box, the bevel gauge was 1 degree off. Everything I cut was binding and burning badly. I saw that the gauge was off, but thought that was just an acceptable error on the gauge. I finally threw an engineers square up against the blade - woah, it was out of vertical. I went through the calibration process and that also made a huge difference too. Checked the fence after that, and it was parallel to the table top slots. Saw runs very well now.
Is the saw you're working with worth the $600 difference? Oh yeah, like insurance. You pay for something you hope you never have to use, but it's there when it counts.
I ran the Skill table saw you recommended and this DeWalt. The most noticeable thing is that the 10" blade pulls far more current. I'd expect this SawStop is similar. I couldn't do that with any of the 10" direct drive saws I've used over the years. When cutting through 12/4 hickory for more than a few minutes, the Skill will pop a 15 amp breaker all by itself. 8-1/4" blades require less load on the motor for the same amount of torque so the current draw is lower.
If popping 15 amp breakers, or power draw on a given circuit in general, is a concern, then the DeWalt might be a better option. I can run my extractor and the DeWalt without much issue on a single 15 amp residential breaker.
Depending on wire awg and length, upgrading to a 20A breaker might be a 5 minute job that saves you a lot of headache.
Hearing you say that the DeWalt stops faster than the SawStop made me laugh. I get that it doesn't run as long after the powered is cut, but the SawStop stops nearly instantaneously when it counts!!! 👍🏼
For the time being you buy the SawStop and live with its shortcomings. But the SawStop patents (the continuation patents currently protecting them) are expiring. If you can wait, there will be new options within a year or two. (Not sure if Bosch will be able to re-introduce their 'Reaxx' in the US at that point, maybe.)
Howdy Mr. 731....
Allow me to begin by saying....MARVELOUS video!!! Wasn't too long, wasn't too short. It was pointful (is that a word) and direct. I applaud you and your editor, well done!!!
(Damn, hit the wrong button, have to edit, wasn't done talkin)...
To be very specific here....A "JOB SITE" saw. Meaning, it is for the "JOB SITE"....i.e. You are a tradesmen and you travel to and from locations to perform work. This comment is NOT for the hobbyists getting into woodworking.
If I recall correctly Mr. 731, you yourself was an "on site" construction worker. I'm sorry, I don't recall the details, but nonetheless, you worked "contract" work on homes being built from ground up.
That being the case, so was too was I....I installed prefab cabinets from around year 2000 to 2009. I just call it 10 years in the trade. I worked very SPECIFICALLY alone. I had a few "helpers" but their quality sucked, I fired them. These are people's homes man, they spend 100's of thousands of dollars, these cabinets are important, they MUST be done correctly. Countertop people are coming in behind us, do it RIGHT the first time DAMNIT!!! Oooyyyy!!! Anyways, I could trust no one but myself to get it done, so, I worked alone. In my beginning career, I did "simple" installs. Like 13 cabinets, that includes kitchen and bathrooms. It took a few years, but I EARNED my trust with the company and I was soon installing 75+ cabinets in million dollar houses, BY MYSELF. Would take me 2-3 days depending on detail. Very RARELY would I be called back from the inspector to correct something.
Point I'm getting at is...I've worked "JOB Sites". And ya know what....there most usually is NOT a driveway for you to walk up, or sidewalk for that matter....There is a TON of crap between you (your vehicle with tools) and the house of which ontop of trash and discarded wood from framers with nails pointing out in all directions, you've got MUD to deal with and so help me...It was almost ALWAYS wet sticky mud. And, you're not always the first trade to show up on site, so parking right in front of the house didn't happen much. That means you gotta carry BY HAND (cause ya can't use a dolly through mud) """ALL""" of your tools from truck to inside the house.
Sooo, case in point....The lighter your tool, the less energy you use. You've got a 10 hour cabinet install....do you want to lug a 80lb saw 50 yards through the mud and navigate the mine field of scrap lumber then turn around and make 4 more trips to get the rest of your equipment? Ohhh HELL NO!!!
I used a $99 Delta tablesaw/jobsite saw and it weighed maybe 30lbs. My Dewalt miter saw weighed more (or so it seemed) (still have that miter saw btw). Not ONCE did I ever stop and think, "Geee, sure would be nice if I have a HEAVIER tablesaw that would instantly retract if my finger touched the blade". And then...I'd have to replace a brake too?
As for the 10" blade vs. the 8.5 blade....That's just total nonsense. When and how often do you need 3 1/8" blade exposed for cutting? Not very often at all unless your trade is building Decks and you're using 4x4's, but if that's the case, then your not using a tablesaw for that anyways.
Dado cuts??? Again, if your purpose was a saw for the jobsite....it's very unlikely you're going to be doing dado cuts so that's mute point. The only dados you'd be doing on a job site are for VERY high end houses and if you're doing work on those types of houses, neither of these saws are on your truck anyways.
So, in the end...it's about weight, quality of cut/accuracy and durability AND functionality with minimum maintenance. Dewalt gets a "check" on all 4. Sawstop gets a check on ONE, accuracy. Dewalt is under HALF the cost of Sawstop and fulfills ALL requirements.
That's "Jobsite" comparison of the 2 brands.
Personal shop and hobbyists....Well, that's a conversation for the stadium next door, cause that's a whole different sport.
Thanks Mike! Always appreciate your feedback!
@@731Woodworks Thanks Mr. 731, 😊. I edited my post as I had hit the wrong button while typing and it only posted my first sentence.
I got a sawstop specifically for that reason (and also precision. Dewalt is not the easiest to calibrate in some ways if it goes out of alignment). But evaluating whether I would feel a loss of a digit - the answer was a resounding yes - in very many ways - so that factor made it worth the premium.
I appreciate your candid approach when explaining what you are trying to accomplish with ease. Well done video sir. At 71+ yrs old I am learning about woodworking and find it extremely calming. Thank you for the presentation. The Dewalt Job site saw is on my wish list. Take care - Be safe 😎
I'm in the market for a small table saw and these are the two I'm looking at. The way I'm thinking about it and why I'm leaning towards the SawStop is "If I lost a finger today I'd absolutely pay $600 to get it back". But damn, for $300 that Dewalt seems like a fantastic saw! My janky Ryobi miter saw cost that much!
DW7491 is out of stock everywhere.
@@優さん-n7m in stock at home Depot in southern California
Using the blade guard on your table saw will reduce your chance of injury. I would have liked to seen this test with the blade guards installed. You can use a track saw for a lot of cuts, further reducing the possibility of injury.
As an airline pilot that likes to dabble in woodworking, the extra money is worthy its weight in gold. $600 vs a career earnings loss isnt even a second thought. I like your insurance comparison and I think everyone who can reasonably afford this safety feature should get it. Even better, we need to mandate saws come with some version of this going forward.
Saw blade manufacturers recommend speed ranges (10-18k) for blades and this is done in SFPM (surface feet per minute). The larger the blade, the faster the teeth on the edge are traveling, so that RPM number is directly related to blade size. You can find this number by multiplying the circumference (blade size * 3.14) by RPM and dividing by 12 to get to feet from inches. In this case, the speed of the teeth on the edge of the blade are both on the low side of that range. The motor and saw blade are the variables that matter the most here I think.
Your circular saw might be 6,000 RPM and 3 HP professional cabinet saw might run at 3,500 RPM. A Makita 16" timber framing circular saw runs at 2,300 rpm. The Ryobi 8 1/4" reconditioned table saw that's a whopping $60 at Direct Tools right now runs at 5,600. Etc.
The almost proprietary blade size was necessitated by safety regulations that maintain certain table size blade height ratios etc. 8 1/2 in blades are pretty common on miter saws and it's surprising that they couldn't make that work, or maybe it was on purpose, who knows. The DeWalt saw is simply the smallest saw they can make and they make a bigger one with a 10 in blade if that's what someone needs. This one is incredibly cheap and portable. I have two of them and a Sawstop PCS in my garage. I'm sure there were a bunch of guys like me who found the Jobsite Pro to be huge and take up too much space in their truck or van or trailer and went back to this little guy, so Sawstop got into the compact game as well. I wouldn't recommend either one of these saws to a hobbyist.
Your reviews are the best... Fast pace is MUCH better than the rest
I appreciate that!
Fair review, thank you. I purchased the Dewalt 7492 qs (European version) equipped with powerful 2000 watts motor. It takes dado Stack. Beautiful saw!
Dewalt has a 10" saw that I recently purchased for $649. It came with a folding stand with wheels and it had the same features as the 8.25". It also accepts a dado stack.
That's the one I bought 5+ years ago. I love it.
I was about to post this myself because it would be a closer comparison product-wise.
I came here to mention the same. I bought the 10” blade DeWalt saw (model dwe7491) can take a MAX of 8” blade dado, set to a MAX WIDTH of 13/16ths. You will have to either order an aftermarket throat plate or make your own.
I bought my saw with the rolling stand and it totaled to about $670(including tax)
Yes that DeWalt 7491 is a much better saw and it's STILL $300 cheaper than the Sawstop and comes with a collapsible rolling table!
@@DoobyDular I'll note that the $900 Sawstop Compact explicitly doesn't accept dado sets, because stopping one would rip the mechanism apart. You need to go up to the $1600 JSS model to have an equivalent to the $650 DeWalt. And the SS JSS uses an older style of fence, not rack & pinion.
@Ricochet845 You can get CNC-cut Melamine/MDF zero clearance plates for the DeWalt on Amazon at ~$20 for a set of four.
I just got the Dewalt from HD after watching your review. Thanks! I got the DW7485WS (with stand). Was cheaper than buying the saw & stand separately. Love your videos!
Just got the DWE7485. I have not set it up yet. Thank you for the review. I agree the blade stop is a nice feature, but for the amount of time that I'll be using the saw, not worth $600.
May be a comparison between 10" versions of both saws would be useful. It would also be helpful to put blades that you would recommend on both saws. Thank you for a very interesting comparison. BTW, the Sawstop seems MUCH quieter.
*YES*
Same size comparison with the same type blade on each saw.
You can not get a 10" blade compact table saw anymore, unless it has a blade stopping technology. That change happened a little over 2 years ago. I think this situation is comparable to the code changes in regards to building decks. I'm sure that Simpson and Sawstop both had some influence in these decisions. I miss my bosch compact 10" saw. I've owned two of them, and they are great. I have purchased two of the worm drive skils, they are decent, but don't hold a candle to my bosch saws.
You're right! Lots of people have accidents on table saws... ESPECIALLY WHEN THEY'RE NOT USING THE BLADE GUARD! It's really a shame that you didn't take the time to review and compare the blade guards that come with both saws. If the blade guard is easy to install and works well, you're more likely to use it and may have less need for SawStop's flesh-sensing technology. It might be interesting to see whether you could push that sweet potato into the blade on the DeWalt with the blade guard installed.
I use a blade guard every cut that allows it for safety and dust collection. Unfortunately, there are a lot of cuts that don't allow them. Dado(and yes i know you cant use dado blades on thse 2 saws but you can still do dado cuts), rabbit, bevel cuts, cuts too close to the fence. And you can't always use the riving blade. Lots of videos of saws pulling hands into the blade on odd cuts.
Lol the blade guard causes plenty of issues also, can reduce visibility which is even worse, tell me you've made hundreds of cuts and definitely not in the thousands. It's okay some people trust Home Depot's panel saw to cut their project.
Thanks for an honest and well done review of these two saws.
When you stated that you had to replace the brake system, a couple of questions jumped to my penny pinching mind.....1. How much does a replacement brake assembly cost? 2. How much does a cartridge cost.
I looked and discovered that the cartridges cost at least $100.00 and that the cartridge must be replaced every time that this auto stop feature is engaged.
I was surprised at both of these answers. Thanks again.
Both those saws are $300. The SawStop safety features add $600.
Like you mentioned, my left thumb tangled with a spinning blade last year. After 7 stitches and a plastic surgeon, my bills totaled $6,000.
I see because you're not careful with your tools everyone else needs a SawStop now, makes sense.
@@artv4nd3l4y accidents are accidents thats what theyre are, even if youre perfectly "safe" an accident can still happen, 600 for safety is a bargain
@@artv4nd3l4yonly a fool thinks an accident can't happen to him. Every single day people suddenly pass out, have heart attacks, strokes, seizures; a kid or dog or even adult walks into the room and bumps into you, the list goes on of things you can't anticipate.
@@bran-qt7ds I use my angle grinder to shave my pubes, talk about a multi tool
Dewalt living up to there name. I had one when I first got into building. Thank you, you convinced me in the Delta and been building like crazy. Thank you boss hog.
Right on!
Thanks for the video and perfect timing. I am setting up a shop at a second home and don't want to buy another full size saw like my old Delta. I had not considered the jobsite saws in the past, and bought used contractor saws. For the price the DeWalt looks like a winner.
I lost part of my thumb in a table saw accident. Definitely having the saw stop would have saved it. Stay safe fellow wood workers/ construction workers
No disrespect but had you use the blade guard that comes with the saw that is OSHA compliance you would have all your body parts
@@rickyperkins232 You're absolutely right.
@@maxperis7542 bro a few years ago I had a serious kick back right in the gut, I thought I was going to lose an organ man.
Last year I was pushing a piece of material on my table saw and the plate broke before I realized but no injuries.
I learned the hard way one saw no protection I got hurt bad, the second saw had all the protection not even a scratch. Most carpenters trash all the safety gears upon opening the box, some refuse to even install the riving knife so we get hurt.
So a company like Saw Stop sell us what OSHA already mandates all current table saws manufacture be safety compliant. In the video ask Mr. 731 where is all the safety devices for the DeWalt?
@@rickyperkins232 definitely, my accident wasn't at my home shop it was on the job site, which I understand its always on the individual to take control of their own security but in the heat if the moment on a residential job site shit happens. I'm definitely a lot more careful now haha
Sorry to hear that sir!!!! I’m stuck between the two. But your words making me go with the saw stop!!!
Something you have to live with everyday. Thanks for sharing your story.
Still recovering from putting my hand through the table saw. I would like to think I am on the higher end of care taking when woodworking, but apparently not careful enough. Did it turning the 10 inch dewalt table saw off after starting a basic straight 13mm plywood cut but something wasn't right. Looked down at the switch, clicked off, didn't feel anything. then the realism kicked in that I had gone hrough my left hand fingers somehow. Spent a lot of emotional time looking at blood trails, cut direction and anything I can think of trying to figure out exactly what I did. No luck. 9 days in hospital, now 11 weeks down the line. Very life changing. Just wish I had known that the sawstop saws were actually somewhat affordable these days. Thought they were still only selling the full size one for like 20,000. Can't really afford it but getting a compact one. It's the only way I will keep making furniture and I love it. Just thought I would share in case it swings even one persons decision. Biggest regret of my life. Don't be like me. You won't see it coming. No dado stack compatibility absolutely sucks but worth the other single feature.
I bought the skillsay 10 inch portable twble saw over a year ago, and it works great. Bought on sale. Sometimes more expensive isn't always better. Sometimes it's quality rather than name.
I recently purchased the Dewalt saw. It was a big step up from my brand X saw and that was what I was looking for! I like the saw for all the reasons state here and the Dewalt table saw stand make it the perfect height.
Personally, I run everything DeWalt. They make quality tools that get the job done (calm down Milwaukee fans, I didn't say your tools were worse - they're good too) but when it comes to table saws, I'll always run a SawStop. Sure you can do everything to be safe on any saw, but there will always be risk, which is why I like the additional safety that comes with a SawStop. I'd rather have to re-cut a piece or replace a blade than go to ER to stitch up a stub where my finger once was. I do still absolutely agree that for that price, they should be sending a better blade, have a longer warranty, etc. The safety feature is worth the additional price, but that's no excuse to cut cost elsewhere.
I have a Milwaukee battery operated table saw with an 8 1/4 blade and have had no issues whatsoever ever. The blade stops in under a second when turned off, it will also hold a Dado set, and has all of the features of the Dewalt saw and it's price is in between the two price points show here.
I had to do the math since a 10" blade would have a higher speed at same rpm as an 8 1/4" blade. I calculated about 176 ft/sec for the 10" blade at 4000 rpm, and 206 ft/sec for the 8 1/4" blade at 5800 rpm.
So that explains why the Dewalt saw feels smoother. Would be next to impossible to test, but maybe the lower rpm helps with wear & tear over time?
I just ordered the CTS I have a shop that goes to a 12 x12 give or take small back area of the basement then the garage in the summer months and I cut the tip of my finger at work about 12 years age I still have the nasty scar on the tip where it folded over they were able to glue it back together but I have a constant reminder, it’s kinda numb I just figured I would want one also after showing my wife the demo video of the saw stop then showing her my finger again
FYI You should bring up the fact that a 10” blade and 8” blade spinning at the same rpm will have totally different “rim speeds”. 10” blade will have higher speed at the rim and more teeth passing thru the cut point than a smaller diameter blade. So it’s not just rpm you should consider
Good solid review thanks
Thank you for the comparison. Really helpful info. I bought the 10" version of the DeWalt contractor saw with no stand. I'm not too happy with it. The blade has slight run-out, no matter what blade I use. So, I guess it's in the shaft. Also, the fence is not perpendicular to the table and there are no adjustments for that, it is a fixed position. About 3/16 off from top to bottom. I've seen several other posts on TH-cam about the same exact thing. I really like tool reviews. Thank you.
The DeWalt stock fence can be pretty bad and has no built in way to adjust. Mine was not only not square to the table, but actually had a twist down the length of the fence. I ended up disassembling the fence, threw away the warped extrusion, kept the two mounting brackets, and attached the brackets to a length of 80/20 framing instead. I also tapped some additional holes in the brackets for set screws to allow micro-adjusting the fence angle. Now it's as square as I can measure, with the added bonus of easily being able to attach sacrificial fences and jigs to the 80/20 profile.
@@frankbattaglia5491 Thank you Frank, I thought of doing something similar to square it up. The micro adjustment is a great idea. Thanks friend.
I got a Dewalt 10" jobsite table saw and I can definitely adjust the fence on it, it has Allen bolts you loosen up and they will slide in the rail. Pretty sure Dewalt has-been doing it this way for awhile now as my saw is already 4 years old
@@brucehansen7949 Thank you for the reply. My 10" saw is new and there are no adjustments on this fence. I have googled it and watched some TH-cam videos complaining about the same thing. Maybe the older saws had adjustments, but I promise this one does not. I appreciate the info though.
@@spenegdt well you might wanna return it to the store and look for a used one like mine? Or modify and make your own fence. To be honest the fence on my Dewalt is a bit chancy, cheap aluminum. It works, don't get me wrong... but it could be better, hope you are able to work it out with yours
I love my Dewalt 7480. I've had it since 2016 and have no issues. It has a 10in blade. It cuts everything I need it to. I was thinking about getting the Sawstop, but it doesn't seem to justify the price. I would probably look at the contractor saw instead. While not exactly the same, for me, the saw just sits on a custom bench I made. So, it's basically just a stationary saw for me anyways. I was thinking while watching the video that Sawstop should have just partnered with Dewalt for their small saw. Give the Dewalt a sawstop break. That would be a great small saw!
I picked up the DeWalt and was able to finish some 2" cedar slabs for floating shelves and 1" cedar planks for the face of my kitchen island. Plenty of power, nice smooth cuts. And I still have all my fingers 😁
Sir - you have great comparison videos. Great videos in general! Thanks for taking the time to share all this content with us
@ 13:19 at the cabinet supply house they call it paint grade china white birch. But sometimes we use it with stain.
Birch for stain is alot expensive. By the way I am a black and yellow team. I have the 32.5 inch max rip with will and the very small 10" max rip 24 inch saw. I love them and still got the first generation dewalt portable table saw 20 18 years a
Old and still kicking @$$. Good video.
As someone who takes X-rays of people, if I've learned anything about power tool accidents, it's the distractions that will get you. One trip to the Emergency Department will cover the difference in costs. That's not counting if you're hand is permanently damaged. Your choice. And then there's workman's comp which will never go down
On the Sawstop CTS... I have one. One thing to note: if you get an out of box failure, Dewalt will do an exchange. Sawstop will NOT. I experienced the difference. While I like the saw, the nearly 2 weeks of downtime while holidays, weekends, shipping and my time to install the repair parts was frustrating (blade couldn't lift). Honestly, I don't know that I would do it again, simply do to the lost opportunity from buying it, due to losing a 3 day weekend set aside for projects and the hours sent in doing the repair.
I have the Dewalt 10" saw, $600. Most of what that Sawstop offers is negated or exceeded by stepping up to the larger Dewalt saw. It can take a dado stack, and only still lacks the micro adjust. for a 3-400 price difference, it's even more lopsided, imo. The Sawstop offers the brake cartridge, really, and thats all.
Great objective review. One quick point - I used to have the 10" DeWalt table saw (DW745), and loved it. I moved up to the SawStop CNS for multiple reasons (certainly safety). The blade that came with the SS was "less than adequate." I installed the Forrest Woodworker II blade that came off my DeWalt, and the difference was night and day on the SawStop. The DeWalt you reviewed won't accept those high end blades, which don't come in proprietary sizes (at least not that I've seen). Big point, IMHO, since the Forrest blade literally erased that "resistance" you experienced.
LMAO the SawStop can't even give you a decent blade on a $900 overpriced saw, that's rich!
@@artv4nd3l4y Haters will hate. I've had both. The DeWalt doesn't come close. Deal with it.
@@bkp100Yeah you looked like the type of guy that needs that sort of thing, make sure to update your pronouns too friend, bad things can happen otherwise, and enjoy the table saw.
@@artv4nd3l4y Yeah... and you're the type of guy that resorts to personal BS when you have nothing substantive to respond with... oh, I don't do pronouns, genius...
As an owner of the DeWalt, I can't say I would never consider the Sawstop, but I wouldn't switch for the extra $600. Yes, we all know of the potential dangers of ANY saw, but I've been sold on this little DeWalt saw since day one. I'd never say the DeWalt is a "better" saw since I don't own the Sawstop, but I have serious reservations that the Sawstop is built or can perform any better. Especially with the types of cuts I make personally, and that's obviously going to vary from person to person. Good review.
For those who are starting out with wood working, and need to find a good affordable, reliable table saw...
I highly recommend the newer Craftsmen 10 inch table saw ( I don't know the model number right off hand. I do know there are two newer models out. The 10 inch, and a smaller job site saw. I do not know the blade size off hand)..
I been using it quite a bit here lately installing hard wood flooring. The fence is actually pretty impressive and the blade that comes with the saw is surprisingly good...From my experience..
Keep in mind, it only has standard safety features that come with most table saws.
I completely understand that Saw Stop has an amazing safety feature on it...
I just thought I would make a suggestion for an affordable reliable table saw....
When I bought it, I paid right around $219.00 I believe.
Prices may vary a little now.
12:35 I am just getting into woodworking as a hobby to bring. In a little extra money and am limited on space and I picked up the DeWalt Flex volt job site 8 1/4 inch table saw and absolutely love it! So the haters can hate! Oh and I believe I picked it up at a super bargain price brand spanking new in box from HD for $280
Wowzers! Do yall see this guy?! He picked them both up at the same time. More like Mr. Muscle-works. 🤣💪🏽🤣💪🏽🤣 Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the insights, Matt.
Food for thought. That 10" blade has more surface area and teeth in a cut. Both add to the load on the motor and between that and the lower RPM of the motor give the sense of it bogging down.
I'm not spending 900 on a bench saw, all said. Finger saver or not.
But then I did get a Grizzly 5 hp cabinet saw on the used market for a significant mark down. It needed TLC and some parts, but it is great at holding down the slab in my garage and manufacturing huge heaps of sawdust.
I loves my tablesaur and it chews through tuba fours and sixes like they aren't even there.
I am no saw expert, but from the car world and tire/wheel dynamics, it may not be just surface area and teeth, but when you are using different diameters a HUGE factor is leverage (axle distance to teeth/tire/brake rotor edge) and edged speed. Maybe that explains some of the cutting test results and comments in the what was it 8 1/2" vs. 10" comparisons?
Great video once again. Man oh man it is agonizing trying to decide on what table saw and some other tools to buy
I know. It's such a big decision to make! I hope these videos help in some way make the decision easier.
They do sir. And givee the inspiration to get over the fear and just start doing it. Bought the delta t2 today
I bought a Diablo thin kerf blade. Do I need stabilizing disc's or a different riving knife?
I'm so happy with the delta. I never put a table saw together and had some unbelievably frustrating steps, but once together and a small amount of tweaking, it is dead accurate. I couldn't be happier with this thing. I'll get a harvey when my skills improve
Good comparison one thing about the larger blade would come when you use a crosscut sled
Thank you, like always great video! Thankful for all your hard work doing these vids!
Love the vid! I get that its out of the box comparison; would be great to see them using the same blade type
I have the 7485 in my basement shop and find it to be a very capable saw. Perfect for me!
My favorite TH-cam channel AND couple! 🥰🤗🙏❤️
That adjustment knob on the angel wheel (on the saw stop) is one of the best features I’ve ever seen on a table saw.
I think the saw stop is a better saw, it’s hard to say that it’s $600 better.
If you get a new blade for each saw I think saw stop would be even better
I made a zero-clearance throat plate for my Dewalt CTS. Very simple. It will also handle a dado stack.
thank you again. I really ought to be doing other things but I am watching your content for research purposes and because I enjoy watching and listening...not meant to sound creepy stalkerish by the way. I am torn as I really could use a table saw but I am also yearning after a single bevel, sliding mitre saw. Decisions decisions. I was decided on the De Walt until I watched the end part. Hmmm
Thank you for a thorough and honest review!
After watching the comparison, The Dewalt is a better saw over all. It just depends on if you want to chance not having that $600 added insurance the SawStop provides. The technology in that brake is what makes it cost $900
Great video, have a makita and thinking about replacing it because of the fence and won’t rip a 2” thick piece of wood
I love the DeWalt battery table saw. It’s 8-1/4” and is a great portable saw. I have switched to nearly all battery tools for my job site tools and haven’t looked back. Batteries are just so convenient as you never have to look for a receptacle. I also have the 10” DeWalt which along with their portable power pack allows it to run off batteries as well and allows for running dado blades.
This really isn’t a fair comparison as DeWalt makes a compact table saw which also accepts a 10” blade; these 8-1/4” saws are really more of a sub-compact that can be put right on a table or floor close to where you’re working.
Would be interesting to see a side by side comparison of that Dewalt vs the Skilsaw you recommended a few months back. They’re about the same price and very similar in design, apart from the 10” blade on the Skilsaw. Curious what pros and cons there are between them.
The 8 1/4 DeWalt doesn't accept a dado stack. a better comparison with the skil is a the dee 7491 which is $650
@@Not3xactly You mean the DWE7491RS? Ya, that's a really nice saw from what I've seen. Never used it but it looks like a step up from the one in this video.
@Not3xactly to be fair if it's about budget and weight then the 7485 is a good comp to the skil
@@daifeichu yeah I'm trying to see if it's worth upgrading my 7485. Besides the dado stack, the major difference is the bigger blade, the cut capacity and the 7491 is a tad bit bigger
Yeah agreed, both saws look like really solid deals, I'd be interested to hear if there was any feature of either one that would sway a decision. The Skil I believe has legs vs the flat bottom of the DW but I don't know that that's a deal breaker. Anyone know the rpm of the Skil?
I’ve ripped cut 5/8 inches thick on a sawstop and I used dewalts I think they give you the stick so you never brings your hands anywhere near the blade or try to grab woods while it’s still spinning. Safety is important no matter what saw you use.
Thanks for this side by side comparison! I have the 8 1/4 DeWalt and I was totally happy until I attempted to cut tenons on it, by sneaking on the final tenon thickness. I made many attempts but it seems the blade drops just a tiny little bit after a few cuts and adjusting it to get a uniform tenon thickness was quite impossible. That problem and also the safety feature is what made considering the Sawstop. Also I find the top of my DeWalt is not completely flat and I cannot get 90 degrees on both sides of the blade at same time. Using my digital angle finder gives different readings when changing its location on the top (up to 0.5 degrees variations).
Would love to see your review of the dustless Sirocco table saw. No dust collection needed (shop vac or big dust collection unit.). Amazing if you work indoors on a job site.
I got motivated seeing the 2 saws getting picked up! Time for a quick pump sesh at the gym!
💪
I have the dewalt 10" and with respect to the onboarding tool storage I would prefer the way dewalt does it. Mainly because I dont have to take a box out and use workbench space. Just something I didn't hear you mention.
I have 10” version of Dewalt. The fence is great, no issues with power. BUT dialing in a bevel cut is a pain. You can set limits at 90 and 45 but I would say they are positive “stops” because you could be just short of the limit and not know it. Getting a perfect 90 or 45 is finicky. I also noticed my dust collection hose fits snugly on the dust port (good thing) but I think the action of putting the hose on and off has moved the housing so the blade is no longer parallel to miter slots. Easy fix but annoying.
I'll second this statement, it's impossible to get a perfect 45 cut, if you do... you got lucky or need to teach me how
I'm wondering why you chose the 8 inch DeWalt saw instead of the 10 inch to compare to the SawStop? That would have been a better comparison, I think. The 8 inch is to the SawStop like apples is to oranges.
Well they make it again.
Did the world really think Dewalt left the 10" table saw market?
I’ve had the Dw7485 for a few years. I think it’s a good saw all around, however I had issues with the fence. My fence had a bow in it where there was about .020” of play towards the middle of the fence. Having some sorry of micro adjust to true the fence and blade would be nice BUT it is $300 saw.. I really just do projects around the house so can’t justify a cabinet saw for the space
I have the dewalt and absolutely love it
Another informative tool review. Thanks Mighty Matt!
Thank you Ronnie! aka Lloyd!
thanks for the vid!
greetings from Baltic States. :)
Even some experienced woodworking TH-camrs have had the Sawstop save their fingers and that is why I will spend the small fortune required for a SawStop table saw. As any claim adjuster will admit, the price they would give for the loss of a finger is significantly more than $600. I would have liked to see how they both respond to the blade you would recommend, and from what I have seen the cost of a replacement blade is more for the Dewalt than the SawStop.
I have the 10" version of the DeWalt, and it DOES take a dado stack, up to 13/16", according to the manual (I haven't tried a dado yet, just got it last weekend). Mine also came with a folding stand, so the saw is a much higher price than $300 ($650, currently). I need transportability due to my shop setup, so a folding/rolling stand is a MUST for me. And the Sawstop equivalent is higher still by more than $1000 (because of the higher cost, and additional shipping I'd have to pay). Almost $2k by the time it's all said and done.
Not sure people would cross shop these 2 saws. I would love a SawStop, just can't afford one right now. I bought the Dewalt Saw.
Hi, thanks for the in depth comparison. I wonder, at 14:39, what's the name of that song? Can't figure out where I heard that, but it rings a bell and I'd like to find-it :)
Rotational weight is energy expensive. I'll save you the math (unless you ask) but 4,000RPM 10" from the arbor is faster cutting than 5,000RPM 8" from the arbor. It's that whole two-pi-r thing.
The saw-stop safety feature is great, and yeah, $600 is a lot less than the $1,500 ambulance ride and then the reattachment, blood units, and months of finger therapy. If it's an inferior saw, then we're comparing bad apples to incomplete oranges. I'd rather find a SawStop™ that beats the DeWalt. (I own that DeWalt JS TS btw).
I'll continue to follow standard safety protocols for now, and avoiding downgrading my TS and adding $600 to its cost. Maybe one day SS will offer a product to entice me to switch. In the meantime thank you for your in-depth summary. *Goes to click like and stuff. *
I haven’t had many problems with corded DeWalt tools but the batteries for basic battery operated tools is I have more defective batteries than any other brand we own craftsman Milwaukee, Rigid , Mikita
Might be worth trying a few spritzes of silicone lubricant on those cams on the Sawstop to see if that helps the fence move more freely.
I really like the Dewalt Micro Adjustable fence...
Saw that kickback with the sawstop at 9:30😧 I dont own a tablesaw yet and that's the only thing that scares me about them. Any tips to avoid kickback?
use the riving knife, don't press down too early like I did.
also, stand to the side of the blade and use a feather board when in doubt. And don't use dull blades.
The blade height could make a big difference in a small shop like mine. Without a band saw the table saw is my only way to resaw boards. (Can't do what Wood by Wright does by hand!) With a 3-1/8 deep cut you can resaw a 6-1/4 inch board vs 5 inches with a 2-1/2 inch deep cut (cutting from each side). That could make a difference on some projects, including my most recent. A band saw would be nice, especially for the thin, smooth kerf, but if you're talking tools for a budget, a band saw with a 6"+ resaw capacity is going to not be real cheap from what I see.
I wish you’d review the SkilSaw Worm Drive SPT99-11! Your review on the Skil recently got me to look at it and this more expensive version. Would love your opinion on it
Saw stop should licence out that technology to all manufacturers!!!
Great review, wish you had discussed; table flatness, accuracy out of the box, miter track accuracy, ease of blade changes, ease of calibration.
Awesome review man! Thanks!!
Thanks for the vid. keep up the good work.
Can you comment on the table flatness of each saw?
Been using a cheap Ryobi table saw. Time for an upgrade!
For me, sawstop wins hands down. 30 years ago, I had a tablesaw accident and removed part of my thumb. One lax moment at the end of a day, and it effects the rest of your life. Saving your hands vs 600 dollars is a no brainer. People who think it can't happen to me are really kidding themselves
Please use a proper push stick one that extends over the top of the page that would hold it down. I saw one segment you almost had it with flip up and that would’ve been very dangerous.
My 10" saw just burnt up and I've ordered the 8.25" dewalt. I was reluctant to go with less than 10" but even the $900 10" saw won't rip a 4x4 in a single pass. I don't get why that is the norm. Just like its easy to find a $700 floor drill press with less than 3.5" of travel. The size of the blade doesn't matter to me if I still have to rip 4x4s in two passes.
Three months ago I had a horrific accident on my table saw. I’ve been a professional carpenter for 16 years and it took one second to destroy my hand. Three months off of work, multiple surgeries and months (possibly years) of physio, as well as a hand that will never function the same, Saw Stop is now the only table saw I will use. I just picked mine up last week when I went back to work again.
You DO NOT want to go through what I’ve gone through. I’m not only a carpenter, but a father and a musician. This one second mistake will affect every aspect of my life for the rest of my life. Spend the extra money. Get a Saw Stop.
I wish the sawstop was available in the UK. I can only found it for about 3000$ with stands... Don't understand why, they would sell tons it looks so good
I currently have a 1971 Sears Radial Arm saw; I am looking to replace it with a table saw. What does everyone think, so much more how-2's and easier ripping.
One thought, if you are going to do a 10" vs. 8.25" saw comparison, & bring up rpm vs. torque, some comment or information on the geometric effects on radial tooth speed &/or leverage arm torque would help. Great video, thanks. As another commentator pointed out there is also a change in area of blade contact and possibly # of teeth?
I'm right at the beginning... Where you said saw blade size. I'm going to guess the result... DeWalt did slightly better but saw stop had more depth of cut? Will continue watching with pop corn.
Yup... About what I thought.... Btw did I see the off cut of walnut fly back at you? Yup sure did but not as bad as high speed made it look
So if i am correct the 8 1/4" DeWalt has being discounted so for best comparison we will not see the 10" DeWalt.
Now where is all the safety gears that came with that DeWalt? Can we say "In the trash can somewhere at the local dump"
@@rickyperkins232 huh? Sorry don't know much about specific model numbers.... Know lots of DeWalt 8 some odd inch job site saws are available still ... Realistically though side of all the TH-cam bs technicality arguments and counter arguments and semantics .... Most all 10 inch saws are the same.... Minus a few special features as far as 15 amp motors go.
What surprises me is that after it got called out now saw stop is claiming 15 amps when just a few weeks ago it was claiming 13 amps. But if they say so they say so. I'm not one to argue.
As far as trashing safety equipment.... There really are only 2 that matter...
Push stick ( and god how I personally dislike 731s btw ... Personal taste though)
And
Riving knife \ blade guard.
Personally I'm not a fan of saw stops as it scratches delicate materials with it's kick back pawls. But as they can be removed it's not much of an issue.
Not sure why your talking about trash cans though
10 inch x 3.142 x 4000 rpm = 125,680 inches per minute/12 inches /ft = 10,473 ft per minute/5280 ft per mile= 1.984 miles per minute cutting speed of teeth
8 1/4 inch x 3,142 x 5800 rpm = 150,344 inches per minute/12 inches /ft = 12,529 ft per minute/5280 ft per mile = 2.373 miles per minute cutting speed of teeth, What you did not determine in the video was whether both saws had an equal thickness of kerf on the blade. A thicker kerf would have made the SawStop slow down while cutting. By determining the circumference of the blades x rpm gives the cutting speed of the teeth. It gives you I feel a better insight to how the blade interacts with the wood. I realize this comparison is about how these saws perform right out of the box side by side so kerf blade thickness is not part of the consideration, as you are evaluating these saws as they come from the factory. I would like to have seen the potato test done with a half inch piece of pine with the potato on top of the pine board as it would have shown a better evaluation of how well the SawStop works in preventing injury. Would having wood between the soft flesh, the sawblade and the saw table have any impact on the SawStop's safety mechanism? I ask this not to be a critic but because I am a curious monkey:)