Your content may lack the polish of other channels but it's genuinely the best, most practical, and honest content on the BYD Sealion I've been able to find on the internet. Thanks for spending the time to make these videos! ❤
A couple Complements: - Love the voltage vs SOC graph, which helped me better understand LFP BMS calibrations - good work with the white board, Prof ;) A couple additions: - A reminder to top charge to 100% semi-regularly to help the battery management system (BMS) calibrate, thus preventing the unforeseen state of charge drops. - A full cycle from 100% down to low can help recalibrate - If full charging >90% (or full discharging to 25%), just don't let it sit there too long, drive it soon thereafter to prevent unneccesary degradation. - I'm not gunshy with low state of charge (SOC), I happily run my Model Y LFP down to 0% (not true zero, theres a buffer) as long as I can charge it straight away. In fact on my road trips I routinely run 100% to single digits and tesla doesn't discourage that at all - in fact they ENCOURAGE you to full 100% charge the LFP pack weekly to keep BMS calibration. Thats the beauty of LFP!
Thanks for this. I am fairly sure there is also battery learning relating to degradation state, so it knows how much capacity it actually has as it ages - as you say 100% charging helps the BMS learn the new capacity, which is why they advise weekly full charges. I am unsure why in the Tesla ecosystem i don’t read any sudden % drops from say 40% to 20% in short times, but in BYD ecosystem I have read this on a number of occasions leading me to believe the algorithm BYD uses with its BMS is not as user friendly yet. Thanks for your comment!
Great explanation Chris. Very informative and easy to understand. My parents have just bought a Hybrid Hyundai Kona, which im sure some of your theory and experience may assist me in learning their car so i can teach them how to use the features a bit more. No idea yet, just guessing. Will check theirs out over the Christmas break. Cheers Peersy
The way I understand it, you'd have to occasionally charge it to 100% but not every time for LFPs. This is so that the system properly calibrates where in your graph the battery's full charge is (since all batteries degrade over time, the system 'reindexes' the SOC levels). Much like how an aircraft gyro operates, it's good at determining your location but, over time the value drifts and you'd have to sync it to a known location at some point in time to make it accurate again.
Logical and yes correct, I guess I was not super clear on this. This is the intended design but there have been reports of sudden drops to 20% out of no where and even after a full discharge and recharge it has not corrected the capacity for some reason. Either bug in the BMS or battery issue I guess, but the normal way as you said is the battery calibrating it to whats available taking into account degradation.
Thanks for the very informative video. I was wondering if there's a way to check how much kWh we have used to charge the car for a certain period? For example something like monthly kWh charged statistics or something like that.
Yes there is an energy tab on your central screen, that will show all of this. Including balance of fuel and kWh burned to get you to your current position. Helps understand how your hybrid usage is going at anytime.
how will battery degradation affect my charging habits? I always tend to find nearby shopping centres with free charging, taking a longer shopping session than I need to just to let the battery charge up of free. is this a bad habit? like reading owners manual say every six months you should completely drain the battery to 0% and recharge to 100%. how do you even achieve that?
Hi, great vid, been watching your vid before getting the sl6. Just a quick question, if i drive 60 to 65km a day, i can let it stay in ev mode, can i just set the SOC to 25% and charge it every night using the 2kw portable charger? Thanks again.
Yes be just over 8 hours to charge to full from 25% (1.6x14=8.75) 1.6kW per hour after efficiency loss, on an 8a charger (standard BYD wall charger, many think it’s 10a when it’s not) and 25% to 100% is around 14kW. Hope that helps, this is the way I charged for awhile couple month before my 7kW charger been installed :)
BYD claims that its battery can support > 3000 rechange cycles. It gives more than 1 million kilometers lifespan for full electric car (that is awesome). However Sealion 6 has much smaller battery that will be rechanged much more frequent. Do I understand it correctly that the Sealion 6 battery will die much sooner (pretty much after warranty expires)?
Here’s a question for you…. If you essentially use it around town would it be worth while to keep the fuel tank at half or below to minimise weight and to ensure your fuel doesn’t go stale given it may sit in there for quite a while ?
I think if you should always run hybrid a few times a months, even if it’s just for 25/50kms. Set SOC 70% SAVE - and drive HEV for 15-30mins this will at least make sure all the moving parts stay used. If you didn’t plan on doing any HEV use sealion 6 may have been a bad choice as a general thought.
@@johnbentley6925 sorry I’d didn’t actually answer you question though. I would say this is a good idea, but still above use it from time to time. Sure keep 50% tank if that’s your preference, they say a sealed fuel tank can last up to a year, unsealed 20-30 degree Celsius ambient temp will give you 3-6month of age of PETROL life. I think you can consider the sealion tank to be sealed!
Just use the seal firmware, just do not drive the sealion until it’s back up to the correct version. It will only remove apps on a downgrade and won’t remove apps on an upgrade.
As at 9,846km avg reported it was 9.0kWh/100km combined with 4.0L/100km. Total fuel consumed 397.5L and total power charged 1127.2kWh. Need to assume use case is 4 days a week mostly full EV, 3 days a week HEV each day using 1 full charge and fuel for remainder of day. 98RON used and I drive in sports mode and heavy footed almost any day I am not in full EV mode so 3 days a week. Car frequently is at 110km/hr on those 3 Fri and weekend days and if cars pass me on the right I’ll generally sneak and and follow, so occasionally I’m a little over that 110km/hr from time to time. Little city driving other than on those 4 days a week when only in full EV mode.
Your content may lack the polish of other channels but it's genuinely the best, most practical, and honest content on the BYD Sealion I've been able to find on the internet. Thanks for spending the time to make these videos! ❤
Thank you!
Totally agree mate
Appreciate all your content on this. Really helpful as a new owner
Thank you!
A couple Complements:
- Love the voltage vs SOC graph, which helped me better understand LFP BMS calibrations
- good work with the white board, Prof ;)
A couple additions:
- A reminder to top charge to 100% semi-regularly to help the battery management system (BMS) calibrate, thus preventing the unforeseen state of charge drops.
- A full cycle from 100% down to low can help recalibrate
- If full charging >90% (or full discharging to 25%), just don't let it sit there too long, drive it soon thereafter to prevent unneccesary degradation.
- I'm not gunshy with low state of charge (SOC), I happily run my Model Y LFP down to 0% (not true zero, theres a buffer) as long as I can charge it straight away. In fact on my road trips I routinely run 100% to single digits and tesla doesn't discourage that at all - in fact they ENCOURAGE you to full 100% charge the LFP pack weekly to keep BMS calibration. Thats the beauty of LFP!
Thanks for this. I am fairly sure there is also battery learning relating to degradation state, so it knows how much capacity it actually has as it ages - as you say 100% charging helps the BMS learn the new capacity, which is why they advise weekly full charges. I am unsure why in the Tesla ecosystem i don’t read any sudden % drops from say 40% to 20% in short times, but in BYD ecosystem I have read this on a number of occasions leading me to believe the algorithm BYD uses with its BMS is not as user friendly yet. Thanks for your comment!
Good information. I actually drive as you recommended, just need to set my SOC to 70%. Well done 😊
Great explanation Chris. Very informative and easy to understand. My parents have just bought a Hybrid Hyundai Kona, which im sure some of your theory and experience may assist me in learning their car so i can teach them how to use the features a bit more. No idea yet, just guessing. Will check theirs out over the Christmas break.
Cheers
Peersy
Thanks Nick!
Great work mate
The way I understand it, you'd have to occasionally charge it to 100% but not every time for LFPs. This is so that the system properly calibrates where in your graph the battery's full charge is (since all batteries degrade over time, the system 'reindexes' the SOC levels). Much like how an aircraft gyro operates, it's good at determining your location but, over time the value drifts and you'd have to sync it to a known location at some point in time to make it accurate again.
Logical and yes correct, I guess I was not super clear on this. This is the intended design but there have been reports of sudden drops to 20% out of no where and even after a full discharge and recharge it has not corrected the capacity for some reason. Either bug in the BMS or battery issue I guess, but the normal way as you said is the battery calibrating it to whats available taking into account degradation.
Thanks for this video. Probably just will set at 75% for anything we do over 80k in range and then drive at EV for the shorter ones.
Can’t do 75% but yes 70% works!
Thanks for the very informative video. I was wondering if there's a way to check how much kWh we have used to charge the car for a certain period? For example something like monthly kWh charged statistics or something like that.
Yes there is an energy tab on your central screen, that will show all of this. Including balance of fuel and kWh burned to get you to your current position. Helps understand how your hybrid usage is going at anytime.
how will battery degradation affect my charging habits? I always tend to find nearby shopping centres with free charging, taking a longer shopping session than I need to just to let the battery charge up of free. is this a bad habit? like reading owners manual say every six months you should completely drain the battery to 0% and recharge to 100%. how do you even achieve that?
Thought I better watch this, in case I learn something Shark related.
@@christover1 I’m pretty confident that you’re very much on top of this! Can’t wait for a Shark 6 outing in due course!
Hi, great vid, been watching your vid before getting the sl6. Just a quick question, if i drive 60 to 65km a day, i can let it stay in ev mode, can i just set the SOC to 25% and charge it every night using the 2kw portable charger? Thanks again.
Yes be just over 8 hours to charge to full from 25% (1.6x14=8.75) 1.6kW per hour after efficiency loss, on an 8a charger (standard BYD wall charger, many think it’s 10a when it’s not) and 25% to 100% is around 14kW. Hope that helps, this is the way I charged for awhile couple month before my 7kW charger been installed :)
@AllTerrainActionEV thanks for reply. Fan from Phils.👍
Subscribed!
BYD claims that its battery can support > 3000 rechange cycles. It gives more than 1 million kilometers lifespan for full electric car (that is awesome). However Sealion 6 has much smaller battery that will be rechanged much more frequent. Do I understand it correctly that the Sealion 6 battery will die much sooner (pretty much after warranty expires)?
Here’s a question for you…. If you essentially use it around town would it be worth while to keep the fuel tank at half or below to minimise weight and to ensure your fuel doesn’t go stale given it may sit in there for quite a while ?
I think if you should always run hybrid a few times a months, even if it’s just for 25/50kms. Set SOC 70% SAVE - and drive HEV for 15-30mins this will at least make sure all the moving parts stay used. If you didn’t plan on doing any HEV use sealion 6 may have been a bad choice as a general thought.
@@johnbentley6925 sorry I’d didn’t actually answer you question though. I would say this is a good idea, but still above use it from time to time. Sure keep 50% tank if that’s your preference, they say a sealed fuel tank can last up to a year, unsealed 20-30 degree Celsius ambient temp will give you 3-6month of age of PETROL life. I think you can consider the sealion tank to be sealed!
Hey mate, would love to chat to you or see a video about how you downgraded your firmware, I can’t find firmware for the sea lion anywhere…
Just use the seal firmware, just do not drive the sealion until it’s back up to the correct version. It will only remove apps on a downgrade and won’t remove apps on an upgrade.
what has your average fuel consumption been over the last 10k KM?
As at 9,846km avg reported it was 9.0kWh/100km combined with 4.0L/100km.
Total fuel consumed 397.5L and total power charged 1127.2kWh.
Need to assume use case is 4 days a week mostly full EV, 3 days a week HEV each day using 1 full charge and fuel for remainder of day.
98RON used and I drive in sports mode and heavy footed almost any day I am not in full EV mode so 3 days a week. Car frequently is at 110km/hr on those 3 Fri and weekend days and if cars pass me on the right I’ll generally sneak and and follow, so occasionally I’m a little over that 110km/hr from time to time.
Little city driving other than on those 4 days a week when only in full EV mode.
Are you going to buy the Havel h6gt phev 2025?
No plans at this stage, the EV range of those is quite serious for an electric first series hybrid.