300mm is the standard depth in the UK, but 100mm of that is usually between the joists, with only 200mm above. The LoftZone StoreFloor parts come in two sizes, one that raises the deck 159mm above the joists and one that raises it 279mm above the joists. :)
We also sell 1.8m Cross-Beams exactly for homes like yours! If you contact customer services, we will be happy to do a swap. There will be no charge for the beams or for us posting them out to you, but we'd ask that you organise to post us back the ones you have.
Is it recommended to have any larger than 30-40mm gap between the outer wall and legs? The reason being our loft is huge and was hoping to put the boards in the middle of it rather than at the edges.
Hello there! The purpose of the air gap around the edges is to allow ventilation under the deck. You can make the gaps larger than 40mm if you want the raised boarding to be in the middle :)
Hi Craig/LoftZone, we live in an old cottage with a long narrow loft, there's only about 5feet height between the loft joists and ridge of the roof. The joists are about 20cm deep. I've been thinking of using the LoftZone product for a while, and should have installed it during the summer. I'm thinking of getting one of the smaller packs (1.2mx3.6m) packs from LoftZone. However what I wondered was how far away from the end of the eaves rafter/wall junction should the insulation be laid, i.e. what size of gap, for ventilation, should I leave between the roof/wall junction? We also have cables for lighting, etc but these would not have enough slack to lay on top of a 2nd layer of loft insulation. What would be your suggestion? Thanks.
This may sound like a cop out and is just my opinion based on using Instaloft (LoftZones installation service) but if you have a lot of questions I would recommend getting Instaloft over to fit the first part and then you can add and extend after that. I've had them out twice and have a fully boarded loft which now gives us a lot of safe storage space.
Hi Andrew, thanks for messaging! On your first question, this is always an imprecise answer, because it depends on how much moisture enters the loft and how good the ventilation is. But as a rough rule of thumb, we would suggest boarding up to the last but one joist, up to the wall. The insulation however can go right up against the wall. On the other side(s), the insulation can go up to the eaves, so long as you don't block them. It's also possible to buy eaves ventilation strips to prevent the insulation getting in the way of the ventilation if you want. You're unlikely to want to board right up to the eaves since usually the head height there will be very low.
For your second question, it again depends, this time on the current drawn by the cables. If they are only powering LED downlighters, for example, then the current will be very low and the risk of the cables overheating also low. But if they draw more current then that, then they should not be insulated over, and you should extend them so that they can be raised above the insulation. Also, mark the cable location on the boards and consider not using tongue-and-groove boards in that area, so that future maintenance work can be easily undertaken if need be.
How do you do this around the loft hatch?
Check out this photo www.flickr.com/photos/loftzone/31428531880/in/dateposted-public/ and lots of install videos on ww.th-cam.com/users/loftzone :)
@ thanks for the reply.
Hi Craig, what if I wanted to instal 300mm of loft insulation though? Do the loftzone brackets come in higher sizes to accommodate that?
300mm is the standard depth in the UK, but 100mm of that is usually between the joists, with only 200mm above. The LoftZone StoreFloor parts come in two sizes, one that raises the deck 159mm above the joists and one that raises it 279mm above the joists. :)
What are the distances between your beams ? My house is 450, so the 1.2m cross beams don’t work. Unfortunately I’ve bought a load of the 1.2m !
We also sell 1.8m Cross-Beams exactly for homes like yours! If you contact customer services, we will be happy to do a swap. There will be no charge for the beams or for us posting them out to you, but we'd ask that you organise to post us back the ones you have.
Is it recommended to have any larger than 30-40mm gap between the outer wall and legs? The reason being our loft is huge and was hoping to put the boards in the middle of it rather than at the edges.
Hello there! The purpose of the air gap around the edges is to allow ventilation under the deck. You can make the gaps larger than 40mm if you want the raised boarding to be in the middle :)
Hi Craig/LoftZone, we live in an old cottage with a long narrow loft, there's only about 5feet height between the loft joists and ridge of the roof. The joists are about 20cm deep. I've been thinking of using the LoftZone product for a while, and should have installed it during the summer. I'm thinking of getting one of the smaller packs (1.2mx3.6m) packs from LoftZone.
However what I wondered was how far away from the end of the eaves rafter/wall junction should the insulation be laid, i.e. what size of gap, for ventilation, should I leave between the roof/wall junction?
We also have cables for lighting, etc but these would not have enough slack to lay on top of a 2nd layer of loft insulation. What would be your suggestion?
Thanks.
This may sound like a cop out and is just my opinion based on using Instaloft (LoftZones installation service) but if you have a lot of questions I would recommend getting Instaloft over to fit the first part and then you can add and extend after that. I've had them out twice and have a fully boarded loft which now gives us a lot of safe storage space.
Hi Andrew, thanks for messaging! On your first question, this is always an imprecise answer, because it depends on how much moisture enters the loft and how good the ventilation is. But as a rough rule of thumb, we would suggest boarding up to the last but one joist, up to the wall. The insulation however can go right up against the wall. On the other side(s), the insulation can go up to the eaves, so long as you don't block them. It's also possible to buy eaves ventilation strips to prevent the insulation getting in the way of the ventilation if you want. You're unlikely to want to board right up to the eaves since usually the head height there will be very low.
For your second question, it again depends, this time on the current drawn by the cables. If they are only powering LED downlighters, for example, then the current will be very low and the risk of the cables overheating also low. But if they draw more current then that, then they should not be insulated over, and you should extend them so that they can be raised above the insulation. Also, mark the cable location on the boards and consider not using tongue-and-groove boards in that area, so that future maintenance work can be easily undertaken if need be.
@@LoftZone thanks for those very clear and concise answers. I'm sure most of the cabling feeds the LED lighting throughout the house.
Very nice, but doing it for real, in a real loft ain't nothing like this - it's 10 times harder
Totally agree. Currently doing something similar 😅
Agreed,bad enough going up there running network cable,dread to think how hard it would be doing this job up there.
I bought this stuff to do exactly that but the logistics of moving all the crap out or around me when up there I didn't bother in the end
I'd still stagger the boards to be honest.