ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2023
- This is my Sovol Sv06 I am almost done with the mods and upgrades, below is the list so far..
Replaced psu with Meanwell 350watt psu
Mainboard replaced with BTT Manta M5P 5 driver mb
Added BTT CB1 compute module(pi replacement)
Running Klipper firmware and Mainsail interface with Klipperscreen
Added BTT hdmi 5" touchscreen
Replaced all stepper motors with LDO nema 17 42TH40 high temp steppers for the XYZ motors
Voron Stealthburner toolhead with Clockwork 2 extruder and hartk SB pcb board, using Voron trident 14pin harness to LDO breakout board. Stealthburner mount is custom modeled by me. Stock inductive probe mounted to adxl mounting location with custom bracket.
Piano black upper and lower deck acrylic panels.
Modified ender deck skirts remixed from Voron Trident vt250 stls
2020 Misumi extrusions make up the electronics bay framework attached below the stock 2040 extrusions with blind joints.
I am running input shaper, stealthburner led macros, and adaptive bed mesh as well. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks for posting a video of this thing ive been curious.
Love it, good job!
Hello! Great modifications, im in similar thought for my 06plus. I follow you on printables, would love for you to upload that Modified ender deck skirts it looks great!
looks very good!!
Beautiful!
Thats a beauty
Nice! Looks like the part fan setup is much upgraded. I just designed a dual 5015 holder for the SV07+ (it's up on printables) and am figuring out how to adjust the cooling profiles for different materials. What ran fabulously on PLA is causing me grief on PETG - specifically too much cooling when overhangs take an inside turn. Any pointers? TIA
Can you share the stealthburner mount STL? Love the upgrades!
that puppy is soo cute and naive T-T
Cant finds the bottom skirts on printables … also would rly enjoy doing this on the sv06 plus anyway great job and ty for sharing
It looks like you got rid of the Y axis linear rod holders / mounts. Is that right? Do you have an STL if you did? I am so sick of this printer breaking...and those Y axis mounts are super thin...I was trying to diagnose terrible banding....I bought Drylins and while taking it apart, I realized the mounts had snapped...this is after I had to redesign the X axis pulley and fix the extruder. I love the machine, but I can't stand where they took the cheap route.
Hi, How did you replace the linear bearings from the x and z axis? They are press fit really tight on my unit.
Is that a drawer under the printer? It looks so great. I've been looking for risers with drawer, I'd love to get the models for that one. Could you share them?
How show me this is crazy i absolutely love this
How did you install klipper and BTT CB1 compute module(pi replacement)? Is there a video for that I can follow?
how did you get the bearings out of the Z axis? i wanted to replace mine but thought i would be need some kind of press and did not want to damaged the blue container shell plastic that is holding the bearings. any tips?
Dont the igus bearings wearing out faster on the metal rods?
Would be fantastic if you would post the adpater stl files. So others can build there own platform.
awesome, what speed are you at now?
Awesome job! I'd love some sort of step by step instructions. Especially for the hotend/extruder rebuild. Did you have any issues with your left side of your bed showing way lower when auto bed leveling. I've tried everything I can think of and can't fix it
bro Im having the same problem! Even if I level everything manually then do an auto level bed mesh it will start printing high on the right side. I don't understand whats happening.
@@AwestruckOffRoadingHertz I've taken apart the printer and rebuilt to make sure perfectly square. The brackets that hold the z motors are definitely not square to the Z posts. I used a shim I found on printables to jam behind them which brings them square. Then I replace both lead screw rods just to take that out as a variable (actually made a difference). I'm running Klipper and I've got the bed mesh variance down from 1.4731 to .1756. All of that and I still can't get a perfect first layer across the entire build plate. I'm now convinced I need to run X twist compensation to smooth it out. Idk
Ok I confused on parts for Extruder and how to set and install everything? Works on svo6 plus right?
The maracas (bearings) that come stock with the sv06 definitely seem like they are missing a bearing. My sv06+ sounds much better after packing them with Superlube, but still work fine and most of the noise is gone. Eventually I’ll swap out for drylin, still haven’t seen anyone post the safest way to remove the Z rod bearings.
Use two sockets and a C clamp, one small diameter socket to push on the bearing that is small enough to fit into the plastic Z housing, and a larger socket large enough to push the bearing into. Tighten the c clamp with the sockets and Z housing in between and the bearing should push out easy with not much force on the C clamp. Look up how to use a bearing press, and then improvise one with sockets and a C clamp.
Is the pin out the same as the Creality sprites
You almost build an completely new machine. Not to mention the cost of another machine. 2 printers are always faster than making one go fast. but to each his own. Have you seen the cable chain for the sovol sv06 on thingverse and printables? I think it would help your cable management and its an amazing design.
maybe he might have extra parts available therefore he might have done this upgrades
@@flyinghigh2646 well he actually said that in the video but you have to admit a bit overkill for a little more speed.
Yeah its overkill, but a fun build. I will look at cable chain mod.
Oh I have also made it whisper quiet running stealchop in the config on the steppers.
Bonsoir, je veux bien le lien amazon pour les moteurs nema 17 42TH40 high temp, merci.
What interface is on that screen
was your bed messed up? Mine is, I haven't even had the time or want to mess with leveling it. 1 month old printer, can't use it. Do you have files to share on the mods? would be cool if you did! The MK4 parts can be printed out and 10mm guide rods could be used.. Just heard, on printables, subscribed btw!
>The MK4 parts can be printed out and 10mm guide rods could be used.
Could you please tell me what you are referring to here? The Prusa MK4?
@@evropapagan5551 YES the new files from Prusa MK4, they used the 10mm rods instead of the 8mm ones
@@tombo7719 Do you have the link to the Printables page?
@@evropapagan5551 no, just go to printables and do a search.
Out of all of the upgrades, which ones are a MUST? Any help would be appreciated. I'm buying this printer and want to make sure it runs good
When you get it first get it, check if the lineair bearings that they are greased.
Bearings in the top of the z axis, maybe some z wings.
Power supply bigger silent fan mod.
5015 blower extrusion fan.
Cooling blocks on the x axis motor.
The only hardware I have upgraded were the fans on the X head. Better 5015 part cooling fan and a better fan for the heat break. It ran fine before, I just wanted a better view. Octoprint made it easier to send jobs to the printer, and I'm working on Klipperizing it now. (Neither are required for normal printing.)
How did you remove the z axis bearings?
Use two sockets and a C clamp, one small diameter socket to push on the bearing that is small enough to fit into the plastic Z housing, and a larger socket large enough to push the bearing into. Tighten the c clamp with the sockets and Z housing in between and the bearing should push out easy with not much force on the C clamp. Look up how to use a bearing press, and then improvise one with sockets and a C clamp.
when searching for "LDO Nema 17 42TH40" the only one that shows up is "42STH40" is that ok to use?
eh who knows. same search results for me so i assume the guy in the video missed a letter. I cant find a single site without the "S" in the name of the motor.
Hi Mate, good video. Any chance you can provide links to the mod/upgrade parts. Thanks.
I'd like this too please or perhaps the exact specs / model part of each of the item. Thanks
Models are on printables under the same name as my youtube handle. As far as parts used...
Btt Manta m5p board with btt CB1 cumpute module and 5 2209 stepper drivers
Meanwell 350 power supply can get tbose online I think TH3D carries them
Bontech extruder gear set (same as used on voron 2.4 or trident clockwork 2 extruder)
Igus Drylin bearings (10 in total) just google them they are 8x15mm in size.
Voron trident under deck wire kit (check fabreeko or KB3D)
Deck panels were custom made and cut by sendcutsend, in the sovol forums under printed mods I listed all the stl and dfx files needed.
Oh and btt hdmi 5" touch screen.
@eclypse3d are your new motors 0.9 or 1.8? Did you have to adjust the printer.cfg? Have you got a link to the motors? Sorry for all the questions 😅
All you are missing are carbon fiber rods.. I’m interested in the igus drylin bearings - did they fit in all the same parts the steel bearing are housed in with out any modifications needed? Any thoughts on how they will wear vs the steel bearings?
How did you get the Z axis bearings out?
they push out fairly easily.
They do? I tried getting mine out and they felt like they were pressed in. The weren't budging at all.
STL´s ?
Links?
All it's missing is a better hotend imo
Theseus’s SV06
Sounds like you have the wrong driver's installed. It shouldn't be whining like that.
try to go tje lenear rail way , that will probably almost double the print speed since it will be much more rigid 🤷♂️