6 years later, this is still a golden nugget. Just shifted my old GSX550EF out from over 10yrs of storage, after failed (expensive) attempts to repair lack of ignition problems. Time to try again, hopefully thanks to this video, this time it'll be a success. Either way....Liked and subscrbed, Thank You!!
FYI: THe comparitor in all my cdi boxes is HA17903PS, couldn't find that exact one, but LM2903 or LM393P (DIP 8 package) is similar. If your from UK, a min order of 10 can be got from CPC Farnell for 3 quid!
Wow, I think gobsmacked is the correct term (maybe, lol). I have the same igniter and only was able to test the 2 main transistors and verify the caps weren't blown. Oh and tested the resistances from the table in the manual. Mainly because of limited knowledge and I did not want to break the module that you removed. You took this to the next level and I thank you for sharing. Now I have added this project back on the list after letting it sit for over 5 years. subscribed and liked.
Jonny Fix well tested all of the logic parts of the circuit and came to the same comparator as a potential gremlin. the one side was displaying 0v on the output when Vin+ had a higher voltage. Also noted jumpy voltage readings on same side inputs and no changes to the output. The other side was steady with correct out put. So i too have an dual op amp laying around and will try that when time allows.
Hello! This video would be really helpful for me if i could find the parts...i have two igniters, one wont work at all, other works perfect on idle, but when you add throttle, bike starts stuttering... Which part in circuit controls timing/revs? Thank you!!!
Sorry mate, no idea. I don't specialize in any given item, I just figure out the problem I have and repair that. I assume you have put a good igniter on the bike to prove everything else is ok? If so I would start by testing TR1 and TR2 shown at 2:30 and physically at 8:50 the 2 3-legged packages at the top as these are what fires the coils. If you have a scope you can look at the signal on the BASE leg (printed B on the board) and if it's a nice square wave then it's also likely the transistor or the wiring to the coil or the coil. Of course if there's an uneven signal or missing signal and the transistor isn't faulty (i.e. not a low B-C or B-E reading on diode test) then the fault is further back in the circuit. Good luck!
Sorry for commenting on an old video. For logic i only remembered the basic: (And gate=11 for a 1 out) (Or gate=00 for a 0 out). Invert the output for the bobble :-D. Four gates remembered with no pain. Xor and other odd ones can sod off, my brain hurts.
I have issue with voltage stabilizer at module BB1208. A bit different than yours (2 ceramic boards). After opening case i saw blown 3leg 5V stabilizer, mine was original NEC 78L05 in TO92 case. At this moment im waiting for new STM L78L05A. Im also gonna change all 5 capacitors, oe was 1x47uf 50v and 4x33uf 16v. If u have protecting layer on capacitors use ipa and wait few seconds, then u can read value on them without big problem. Im thinking about adding 16v one way transil inside metal case and extra fuse bettwen battery and plug. What do you think?
i wish i had your knowledge about this stuff im completely lost :( i have a no spark on one coil and its gotta be the igniter as the coils check out and ive tried multiple coils
signal faulty, check signal generator wires... It is dual ignition (1-4 and 2-3) which cut earth circuit... Replace orange wire (+) straigh true to battery + and test if fires your + wire is out if wont then your ground circuit is gone... If ignition box goes faulty it wont fire either coils...
Hey, thanks for posting. I have one of those CDIs that works great but as soon as I plug in the cables for one specific ignition coil the CDI draws 2,5 amps constantly when powered on but not started. Coils and cables seem fine so it must be a component in the CDI that is the cause. Any ideas how to narrow the issue down? Any replies would be appeciated.
You want to check the transistor that drives that coil (as seen here at 4:03) it's likely shorted so pulling power through the coil all the time, I'd imagine the coil gets warm, bad idea to leave it on. Worst case the coil primary has shorted if it has been left to get hot and might cause a new transistor to fail if so. Less likely is the transistor is being told to turn on by another fault further in so when on and not running the voltage on the base pin should be close to 0 on both (if say 0.6V or more on the faulty side then could be a control thing).
@@JonnyFix Thanks that gives me a direction. My CDI box is a sealed unit without screws, did you have to open the box up or was it already missing the backside? A cruicial step I suppose to get inside without damaging it.
6 years later, this is still a golden nugget. Just shifted my old GSX550EF out from over 10yrs of storage, after failed (expensive) attempts to repair lack of ignition problems. Time to try again, hopefully thanks to this video, this time it'll be a success. Either way....Liked and subscrbed, Thank You!!
FYI: THe comparitor in all my cdi boxes is HA17903PS, couldn't find that exact one, but LM2903 or LM393P (DIP 8 package) is similar. If your from UK, a min order of 10 can be got from CPC Farnell for 3 quid!
Neat, hope you get working!
@@JonnyFix Parts on the way, hopefully it's the same issue, but either way, thanks so much for this video
Great video. Found the voltage regulator was faulty so we grafted in a 12 volt cell phone charger to supply our 5 volts. Bike runs great!
Good stuff! Sometimes you need to get creative with what you have to work with.
A great video. The details given are kept as secret by many
Wow, I think gobsmacked is the correct term (maybe, lol). I have the same igniter and only was able to test the 2 main transistors and verify the caps weren't blown. Oh and tested the resistances from the table in the manual. Mainly because of limited knowledge and I did not want to break the module that you removed. You took this to the next level and I thank you for sharing. Now I have added this project back on the list after letting it sit for over 5 years. subscribed and liked.
Cgerb73 Good luck! hope you get it working
Jonny Fix well tested all of the
logic parts of the circuit and came to the same comparator as a potential gremlin. the one side was displaying 0v on the output when Vin+ had a higher voltage. Also noted jumpy voltage readings on same side inputs and no changes to the output. The other side was steady with correct out put. So i too have an dual op amp laying around and will try that when time allows.
Hello! This video would be really helpful for me if i could find the parts...i have two igniters, one wont work at all, other works perfect on idle, but when you add throttle, bike starts stuttering... Which part in circuit controls timing/revs? Thank you!!!
Sorry mate, no idea. I don't specialize in any given item, I just figure out the problem I have and repair that. I assume you have put a good igniter on the bike to prove everything else is ok? If so I would start by testing TR1 and TR2 shown at 2:30 and physically at 8:50 the 2 3-legged packages at the top as these are what fires the coils. If you have a scope you can look at the signal on the BASE leg (printed B on the board) and if it's a nice square wave then it's also likely the transistor or the wiring to the coil or the coil. Of course if there's an uneven signal or missing signal and the transistor isn't faulty (i.e. not a low B-C or B-E reading on diode test) then the fault is further back in the circuit. Good luck!
Sorry for commenting on an old video.
For logic i only remembered the basic: (And gate=11 for a 1 out) (Or gate=00 for a 0 out).
Invert the output for the bobble :-D.
Four gates remembered with no pain.
Xor and other odd ones can sod off, my brain hurts.
I have issue with voltage stabilizer at module BB1208. A bit different than yours (2 ceramic boards). After opening case i saw blown 3leg 5V stabilizer, mine was original NEC 78L05 in TO92 case. At this moment im waiting for new STM L78L05A.
Im also gonna change all 5 capacitors, oe was 1x47uf 50v and 4x33uf 16v. If u have protecting layer on capacitors use ipa and wait few seconds, then u can read value on them without big problem.
Im thinking about adding 16v one way transil inside metal case and extra fuse bettwen battery and plug. What do you think?
Not sure adding the one way is necessary but if it's an issue you can always remove it. Sounds like you're onto it tho, well done!
Hello timecatcher. Do you remember the model of tranzistors?
nice one! Did the resistance value's listed in the Haynes manual return to spec?
+Barney Isy Honestly I didn't check. Probably should have, would have been interesting.
i wish i had your knowledge about this stuff im completely lost :( i have a no spark on one coil and its gotta be the igniter as the coils check out and ive tried multiple coils
signal faulty, check signal generator wires... It is dual ignition (1-4 and 2-3) which cut earth circuit... Replace orange wire (+) straigh true to battery + and test if fires your + wire is out if wont then your ground circuit is gone... If ignition box goes faulty it wont fire either coils...
Hey, thanks for posting. I have one of those CDIs that works great but as soon as I plug in the cables for one specific ignition coil the CDI draws 2,5 amps constantly when powered on but not started. Coils and cables seem fine so it must be a component in the CDI that is the cause. Any ideas how to narrow the issue down?
Any replies would be appeciated.
You want to check the transistor that drives that coil (as seen here at 4:03) it's likely shorted so pulling power through the coil all the time, I'd imagine the coil gets warm, bad idea to leave it on. Worst case the coil primary has shorted if it has been left to get hot and might cause a new transistor to fail if so. Less likely is the transistor is being told to turn on by another fault further in so when on and not running the voltage on the base pin should be close to 0 on both (if say 0.6V or more on the faulty side then could be a control thing).
@@JonnyFix Thanks that gives me a direction. My CDI box is a sealed unit without screws, did you have to open the box up or was it already missing the backside? A cruicial step I suppose to get inside without damaging it.
@@GTXOla From memory it was given to me open... was a long time ago now.
Hello can you help me with the CDI connections.
I do not have a GSX 550 manual. HOW I can contact you.
alejandro solorzano I don't have a manual either, it was supplied with this unit then returned
Thanks for helping but you should be direct in your videos q you can not help just to see them q
Are you still repairing CDI boxes if so I have an igniter on a 2005 ironhorse that failed please contact me my number is 432-210-7860
can u fix mine one too? :D
nice work!
Maybe though not able to accept outside jobs. Thanks all the same!