1857 How To Make Super Strong 3D Printed Parts
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มี.ค. 2023
- Don't forget to check out Luke's channel found here / @tntomnibus
If you want to have a look at those special videos become a member and join by clicking this link / @thinkingandtinkering
Don't forget that you can buy my books and materials for your own experiments including our conductive inks at secure.workingink.co.uk/worki... - and for the many who have asked, yes, you can also donate to further our work, again through the shop. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
CNC kitchen has done thousands of tests with different filaments for anyone who wants 'scientific' tests.
Dr. [of chemistry] Robert Murray Smith apparently came up with something worthwhile and original for Shtephaan CNC Kitchen to test, right?
@@retromodernart4426 what was that, or are you being sarcastic 🤔
@@ifell3 It was a statement of fact, I've already contacted Shtephaaan, I understand he will test it with some Pruszhament very soon.
Frankly, I wouldn't be surprised to see The Kitchen do the test even without my correspondence.
CNC Kitchen is great but prints way too cold to get good bonding.
I've been 3d printing for a couple years now and yet this has never occurred to me. Brilliant idea! Thanks a million!
I love your degrees of strength: you can snap it like that, the force required is an awful lot more, till surprisingly strong with difficulty breaking. It was a joy to watch you demonstrate the differences!😅
speaking of grain - I highly recommend trying the wood PLA filament, it's not commonly known how awesome that stuff is. The wood fibers in it make it print much better and it makes the objects much more heat resistant, and of course it doesn't warp as much during printing. I printed a decoration to put on the dashboard of my car and regular PLA turned into a limp noodle the first hot day, but the wood PLA is able to handle the heat! (and I live in southern california)
Also, wood PLA can be sanded much like regular wood, it bonds really well to wood glue as well as acrylic paint. It's just fantastic all-around.
The only issue I ever have with it is an occasional clump of wood fiber will cause a jam in the hot-end and the print fails, but ABS and regular PLA fail just as often for their own reasons
Would probably soak up the crazy glue nicely too!
@@PolygonSwan I haven't tried superglue yet but yea I bet it'll even polymerize like it does with soda ash!
That's what they all say
The people suggesting putting it in an oven aren't completely out to lunch. It is called annealing and is a very popular method of increasing certain properties in the plastic like impact resistance, temperature resistance and strength even. An oven is excessive because of the wasted volume and energy, a little annealing box is much preferable. You'd have to print the items at 100% infill and they need to be flat if you air-anneal them. You can also heat up very fine salt or sand and place the object inside a container of heated powder, this way you can anneal any object in a more controlled fashion which reduces warping significantly, still needs to be 100% infill for it to work but the parts will be much sturdier and temperature resistant. PLA can even withstand boiling temperatures after annealing which is amazing really.
Thanks for that Robert, amazing result!
A couple of weeks ago, I 3D printed an adaptor for my workshop dust extraction system. Due to an oversight (cock up) on my part, I didn't add supports to the print, and the result was very thin area.
To remedy the fault, I used baking soda to fill the area and added superglue and it set rock hard!
I had heard of this trick elsewhere, but thought it may be useful to mention it, for those who may not know.
You can use other stuff then baking soda. I've seen cement and super glue works really well too and I've seen another video where they used a AA battery electrolyte. It's the black powder in a AA battery that seemed to work really well. I don't know how safe it is.
Genius! The neutral fibers in the beam deflection example stay the same length - just as well with crummy plastic. The extreme fibers that are tensioned resist with super glue tensile strength - legend! Maybe flex the sample some to force the SG deeper for more durable adhesion under repeated flexion. Kind of a case-hardened composite polymer concept - and it DOES achieve that ever-elusive real increase in part strength. Good going, again, Robert!
Very cool. I wonder if anyone will design a printer that can include a "glue step" for each layer.
You can always print at a lower quality, that will leave larger steps. Now having more space for glue doesn't directly equate to more strength. This is great info though, I am printing a huge (8" diameter 90 degree probably 12-14" pipe) from PETG I am going to try it with that.
Fantastic idea. BTW, you can use Baking Soda mixed with water in a spray bottle to act as an activator and the Baking Soda will set like concrete when it comes into contact with the Super Glue.
Interresting idea that I hadn't seen before. We need Stefan from CNCKitchen to do a comparison!
Also in regards to print strength, filament varies greatly in properties depending on polymer blend, additives, pigment etc.
To me it seems like neutral colored have the best strength, but can't really generalize I guess. All I know is that all the red parts of my wind turbine got obliterated two times in stormy weather, but the neutral segments in the same brand did not... Now its all neutral haven't exploded so far.
By neutral, do you mean white?
@@scotttovey No I mean neutral, as in no or very little pigment added. That might mean that it is less UV resistant though.
We used to find the red parts of some kids toys left in the sun would go brittle and fade, yellow was probably the most resistant to UV.
See: "STRONGER 3D Prints with GLUE? (and CARBON FIBERS)" by CNC Kitchen, he ran some tests about 3 years ago. However, Robert's glue seems to be doing a better job?
In resins you have to be very careful when adding pigments. The type, the amount, will affect the crystal lattice the resin creates when it cures. Likely the color itself has an affect (effect?). Certainly the color will affect UV absorption. Colored epoxy will better standup to UV, but painting it is best.
Genius. I'm looking forward to trying this on my next print. Thanks for sharing.
As always Robert you score well in these videos, thank you so much for producing them with such helpful information, truth be told I forgot about the super glue we actually used it quite a bit in our original first robotic challenge competitions, it was incredibly effective, I am sure many people will love to increase the strength of their PLA printings. Thank you so much yes it really does work fantastically!
I stumbled across this by accident, but I needed this info right now. Perfect timing. I got a 3d printed model of the Halo Warthog that has over 100 different parts and some of each in need up to 20x pieces. Some pieces are small and too weak. This looks like my answer. Thank you. 👍🏻
Thank you for the Tip. Very much appreciated. 🙂
Your such a Great guy. Thanks for all your work.
ive done some annealing of a print, by packing it in fine salt and heating the whole thing to just about the melt temp.. can go a long way towards a stronger part when its super important.
Very useful, many thanks Rob
Minimize infill and you have the negative for a lost PLA mold... makes a great use for scrap metal.
Sand and waterglass work for quick and dirty molds... just need a well ventilated space or do it outside.
I've printed with ABS before, and one neat trick with that particular material is to expose the parts to acetone fumes, which softens the outside of the parts and makes a really smooth surface. I'd imagine the layers bond together as well under those conditions to increase the strength. I think you would need a different solvent for PLA, though, as I've heard acetone doesn't have the same effect on it.
@@jediknight2350 I had a 0.5l bottle of acetone evaporate in my office where I smoked heavily, you make me happy that the only consequence was that I suddenly felt very drunk and woke up with a hangover. Now I always handle volatile solvents with care and put on the cap as soon as I am done soaking the rag, filling the pipette or whatever.
@@jediknight2350 That sounds pretty scary... I don't work with acetone very much anymore but I'll certainly be careful with it in the future. When I used it, I tried to keep it sealed up, sometimes even outdoors for ventilation if I was working with it extensively.
The only solvent I know of which allegedly actually works with PLA (the one you often hear about and I can't remember the exact name of now, probably ethyl acetate or something like that, doesn't really work), is chloroform. Never found a video of anyone testing it though
@@jediknight2350 I have used acetone to smooth an ABS print in the past, the trick is to cold fume it, basically get a sealed tupperware box or something that doesn't melt in acetone, soak a bit of kitchen paper in acetone, put that in the box with your print, close it and let it sit for a bit, check it regularly. No risk of random fires that way at least, but obviously still put it somewhere well ventilated just in case
@@werxeh I've also heard that, and I've heard you can even make chloroform with acetone and bleach. Although it's a bit beyond my skills to be able to do that safely, so I'll stick with sandpaper for smoothing my PLA prints for now...
That's a little gem - thank you!
check out reheating 3d printed parts in powdered salt. The part remelts into a solid while the salt holds it from warping. Then you simple take it out and rinse it off which the thin layer of salt on the surface gets dissolved away
Great! Off to test. There's a boatload of variables to play with.
When mixed together, super glue and baking soda's strength exceeds that of plain super glue. The enhanced strength and quick drying time make the blend of super glue and baking soda ideal for quick surface repairs in high-traffic areas. It is also perfect for filling gaps and cracks in surfaces and repairing broken objects such as furniture. The super glue and baking soda mix also bonds more readily with plastics than plain cyanoacrylate, making it especially useful for repairing cracked plastic materials and components.
Awesome 👏
Great tip. I'll have to get that a go.
This guy is a genius. Thank you for your content. I just went to subscribe to the channel but I already am. That just goes to show how handy this guy's content is.
Thank you very much for sharing your great knowledge.
The thin (laminating) epoxy works well too. Makes it possible to sand to a mirror finish and is very strong. You just need to soak for a while and wipe off any excess with paper towel well before the gel stage.
A VERY useful tip for us home DIY'ers
Great, very useful tip! Thanks for sharing.
im on the process of building my cnc and what came to my head was printing with 3d infill shape with thin shell and pouring epoxy inside. it will hold the linear rods (40mm thick). seen someone do an experiment and it proved my approach but i didnt see much more of that
Never thought about using the CA glue to increase the strength of the part. Ive use it to adhere parts together. I've also experimented with epoxy and also construction adhesives.
Print orientation and infill density are my usual suspects when trying to print a part that requires strength. I am intrigued though. Will try this one. My superglues are all gel types. Need the regular type so it flows into the layers.
Thanks Robert.
Thank you
Very interesting Rob. What is the activator spray you used?
Curious to hear that aswell
When I'm printing a strong part with cuira slicer I change the bottom layer count two more layers than item being printed has so much better than a hundred percent infill easier on the machine and quieter love your videos
Thanks!
Nice tip 👍.
This is awesome, definitely gonna try it out. Does it work on other materials or just specifically PLA?
It's worth noting that you probably can "anneal" PLA prints in a dehydrator, starting around the glass temperature of your filament (usually around 65-70C but can be lower) and then knocking the temperature down by 5 degrees every 10 minutes or so for an hour or two until you get to room temperature. That is pretty accurate temperature control compared with an oven, won't melt the part but can allow it to glass slightly, and reduce overall stress on the part with a much slower cooling than the initial printing. I haven't actually tried that before, since I've never really printed anything undergoing a lot of mechanical stress, but the theory sounds fine to me (what I read actually suggests using an oven at 65C, turning it off and letting the parts cool as the oven does, but I think a dehydrator would be more accurate).
We mould a small part at work on an injection moulding machine. They get annealed in an oven after moulding. It's actually an environmental chamber so it automatically gradually reduces it's heat. Think it's 120°C for a couple of hours but it is GF nylon.
@@Opel_Guy Well that supports my idea about the gradual cooling, and of course shrinkage during cooling causes stress, so slower is better. Also I know that nylon is incredibly hygroscopic and whilst you can 3D print with it (at higher temperatures than PLA so 120C for annealing makes sense), it sucks up moisture from the air within hours. It's the only filament I've seen in tests that genuinely needs to be put in a dehydrator before and probably usually during a print
I did not know that. Thanks.
Great tip! Also, as ifell3 commented below, another channel (CNC Kitchen) has a lot of great info on filament strength testing as well. It looks like this glue works better than the traditional super glue from this much older test(See: STRONGER 3D Prints with GLUE? (and CARBON FIBERS))
ASA filament is fairly strong, but most importantly, highly UV resistant. Usually needs an enclosure though, to avoid warping. But can be glued/bonded/melted with acetone, like ABS.
Cyanoacrylate can be purchased in different viscosities too. From gel to "ultra thin", the latter I imagine would work best.
Yes I recently watched a video with different thicknesses being tested permeating baking soda to make a plastic, and only the thin one worked. (Cigarette ash is supposed to work well for this too)
You need etter thermal control to anneal pla. Use of a modified toaster over or a clave is highly suggested. Your x and y will also shrink and the z will grow
Nice demo which is as scientific as I can cope with.👍
Nice helpful tip using super glue. I’m wondering if your graphene ink you’ve made, will bond as a reinforcing composite? So 3D printed plastics can have outdoor applications to withstand UV , Moisture exposure and so forth ? Thanks Rob
I use PETG when I need strong layer adhesion and works well so far
i just love you Robert :-)
if the strength of the pla or print filament is proportionate to the linier direction of the layers one may wish to look into the strengths of different composite weaves of fiberglass and other composite meshes... win crosshatching the layers in two or even three directions your bonds can disperse the tension more evenly and therefore make much much stronger prints... Play with the slicer programs to learn more...
Excellent! Thanks again! By the way, what is the 'activator'? The label was away from the camera. Ta.
Very interesting Robert,
What is in the curing agent is it just water.
Thanks
The chemistry and capabilities of plastics is absolutely phenomenal.
Where and when it is suitable, I tend to try to find plastics because a lot of them can actually do certain jobs better than metals, organic materials, or stone materials, and of course, weigh MUCH LESS, and have a tendency not to rot, rust, or crumble when severely vibrated or bounded around.
While yes, some of them can be set on fire, in fact most of them can, there are some that can handle upwards of 500 degrees Fahrenheit, which, for a lot of applications is just fine.
Imma try this cuz i'm always worried about my pieces breaking. Thank you.
That looks like it would make it easier to get carbon to stick to the surface for some electroplating too.
Integza might find this useful as he 3d prints jet & rocket engines that usually come apart. This might help build a better one for him.
wonder what you think of the multiple uses of silicone and could there be an advantage to adding grafene to hopefully lessen the harmful affects of solar radiation in making a shield for plants or a patio?
I once found that the Hatchbox translucent/clearish green PLA filament printed at 100% infill 220°F print temp with a 60°F bed temp prints incredibly/surprisingly strong.
The odd thing about 100% infill prints (aside from taking forever on a large object) is that they're usually much weaker than 20-50% infill (at least along the layers). I believe it's because of the cooling, the full layer suffers shrinkage and there's no give, so there's already stress between each layer. But for very small things, and where the force acting will be in the direction of the layers not perpendicular to them, then yeah 100% infill is very good
EDIT: Described the direction of force really badly there, I was thinking of pulling specifically, basically anything that isn't pulling or pushing in a direction that would likely delaminate the layers
@@werxeh Thank you for that, I'll have to check into that and do some testing.
@@ProlificInvention I hope your testing confirms it, it'll definitely save you a lot of time, material and electricity if you can get stronger parts with less material :)
@@ProlificInvention also I believe cubic infill is the strongest general infill pattern
I'm very curious. What is everybody wanting stronger 3D printed parts for in the first place? Why isn't the available plastics enough? Would love to hear about some of these high strength projects.
There is HT PLA which is advertised as heat resistant and strong PLA but you have to put in the oven at 80-130 degrees Celsius. I've never had a problem with it warping but it does shrink about 30% so as long as you account for that when you print it you will have a srong heat resistant part. Or you could just print PC. I had to upgrade my printer to handle it but im pretty sure the Eleego already has those upgrades. Then sometimes I electroplate it with copper and then nickle by first spraying it with a homemade graphite and acrylic based paint. I've made rocket nozzles that way that don't melt. One time use but still its cheap to make instead of buying one.
Another thing you can do with crazy glue is activate it with baking soda. This method is good for filling in cracks in things, instantly.
What is activator? Doesn't super glue activate itself?
@@rgfxnet Yes. Instant activator speeds up the curing time (the bond normally takes a good 10 minutes to set and a full strength bond w/o an activator takes several hours)
Would it be a stronger part if it was made in layers and laminated with that glue?? Interesting video as ever 👍👍
The best thing about 3D prints to me, is complex shapes/parts can be made, these a sand cast mold of the part, then it's simple to build a waste oil burner, to buy or find damaged car rims and similar parts from a salvage yard, ( I prefer broken parts, because destroying good parts is just evil) but the alloys rims are made from is light, so is suspension parts, engine parts, pistons are exceptionally strong, but are on the brittle side, they do not bend much at all, before cracking, but engine components (external) are great, a 50/50 mix of engine manifold and rims would probably be great, not much difference is think, maybe through a piston or two in there mix well, then cast the parts, if you needs strong part that doesn't expand alot with heat, and not likely to be impacted or flexed piston materials would be good, rim aluminum will bend a good bit before breaking, new car exhaust manifolds are mostly made from steel, these days, so they are lighter, but still cast, and thinner than the old car cast iron manifolds, brake rotors I believe are cast steel also, I'd have to research that, either way exhaust manifolds, and rotors are good sources for steel to melt and cast parts from,
Building a tiny backyard foundry isn't difficult, setup a large tub for electrolysis, with a small electric leaf blower, to pull O2 rich air to burn the oil to burn especially hot, may as well use the hydrogen also! The aluminum would have no chance! It should melt like butter on burning toast!
I hope to build a setup before too long!
I want to build a roughly 2.0L 2 cylinder diesel/ oil burner engine, maybe 2-3 litres per cylinder, with a couple 36" 50-60 lb flywheels, with 80% of the weight near the outer diameter, basically a modern version of a 120 yr old engine,. With 6"-8" bore, and 12" stroke, 8" bore eq. 1206 cid, the 6" bore would be, 678cid, , I'd want to build it as a 2stroke , like the old GM Diesel/ Detroit diesel engines, only in an opposed piston design, the intake at the bottom of the bore, and require a blower to fill the cylinder with air for it to run, with 12" stroke, the operating rpm would be fairly low, 1200 would probably be about the maximum , normal , alot of the smaller pieces can be 3D printed then a steel or aluminum part made from it, a head with 4x 1.880" exhaust valves feeding into two 2.5" pipes for the exhaust, with a blower and 4" inlet pipe going to approximately .750" x 1.5"-1.75" ports on 2" centers around the cylinder, about 1/16" above the piston at BDC, ( when at bottom of the stroke, allowing intake air, the exhaust valve is just closing as the piston Starts up, before the intake ports are covered, there is a sleeve like ring to cover the ports when the piston is above the ports, to seal the crankcase from the blower pressure, it a slide valve closing the port to the cylinder, require another crank made onto the cam shaft that opens the exhaust valves, a cast steel rocker can be 3D printed and cast to use a single lifter to open two valves, the cam maybe a eccentric shaft , with the offset adjustable, by slide and screw adjustment, to change the amount of lift around . 700" valve lift should plenty, between
.500" and .700" with a crank shaft capable of closing a slide valve, over a _4.5" port, the head, cylinder, crank case, flywheel, can all be cast, the crank should be made from 4340 steel bar, and machined, welded mortis and tennin joints, machine the round journal ends square to fit in a approx, 4" x1" flat bar , use 3" round bar machined to 2.75" sq, 1" long on both ends of 3 pieces, with a slight taper, the outer ends being about 1mm smaller. the 4" x 1" 24"bars with a rounded corner square machined into the end .75" from the end so the round wit square ends can fit inside, making the rod and main journals, machine the seam .500" from the center, about .500" deep, and it should be a interference fit, required heat and a press to get the fit, then the 1" gap.5" deep should be welded with a hot deep weld, filling the gap, the opposite side should already had a weld clearance machined into it, allowing it to be welded, got a very near full penetration weld, what is not welded is a very tight fit, the rod journal should be cross drilled with a .125-.150" hole, with a . 250" center drill with 1/2" pipe thread fitting, with steel 1/4" tube, leading to the main journals the same way, the main being double cross drilled with .150" with x bearing with a groove and oil feed holes, with oil fed at the main journals, traveling to the rod journal, and from the rod journal up the rod to the piston pin, spraying the cylinder wall! The pistons cast from a couple sets of stock pistons from a diesel engine, with rings made in a lathe, it would probably be a year long project, just designing and casting the parts, and machining them!! 😆 Crazy rambling but this is what I think about!! 👍
I've been 3d printing for 5 years and haven't seen this method for strengthening parts. thank you. I might not try it though, I'm a nightmare with CA glue. no matter how careful I am, I stick my fingers to the part and make a terrible mess.
Have you thought about going back to 1513 or other videos to see how your new building skill set might stack up to them? If you can strengthen plastic like that could you replace metal parts?
Could be interesting to see your new valve formations working in more 'classic conditions' eh mate.
I like the tough PLA from Matter Hackers if I need strong parts.
OT: @robertmurraysmith I was thinking of the old petrol substitute that wartime people did. They made wood pyrolysers to feed their engines with wood gas. I remembered what you were saying in your rocket stove series & was wondering if a system to pyrolyse wood but not burn it in a rocket stove could be done to feed an internal combustion petrol engine. The advantage of pyrolysis in a “K” style rocket stove is the automatic feed hopper and the compact size of the whole unit. My application would be to use it for a stationary engine driving an alternator, using waste wood or charcoal briquettes. I hope you get to see this as I think your mind is well suited to think on something like this as you don’t appear to have ever thought within a box! More power to you mate👍.
Would mixing graphene into the crazy glue increase strength further?
That's sweet !! Have you seen all the cool super glue cigarette tricks?
😂 Having to think about it will make some people depressed. Wicked! 😂
Has anyone ever experimented with a tilting/rotating bed on an extruder 3D printer so it could add plastic in various different orientations? The software would probably need to be coded specifically for it, but I'd think being able to add layers with (As Robert call it) the grain running in different directions could allow for better stress distribution around high load areas of a print.
As an example, a screw post on an enclosure could be printed as a skinny column, then be "Wrapped" with vertical and spiralled toolpaths to bind the layers of the original column together more firmly, while still only using the same amount of material.
Robert, have you done any printing with PETG? It's a little more challenging to print with, but the material isn't biodegradable like PLA. It's also UV-resistant and has a higher elongation before break.
Not sure if those things matter for what you're doing, but a lot of my parts end up being exposed to sunlight and water so I prefer to avoid PLA.
I haven't mate - I get the PLA free most of the time and I am doing a lot of prototyping so for now filament type isn't really an issue for me - but I do plan on looking at a few different filaments when I get round to it
Crazy man😁
I only got into 3d printing a week ago. It's been great fun so far. Anyone know if the same super glue technique would work with pet-g filament?
Great tip @RobertMurrraySmith
Do you have link for the activator please
what kind of super glue is that and what is an activator? Can you provide a brand names for both.
I use the same superglue trick with screw holes in wood that need a bit of love. Shove cotton wool into the screw hole, having removed the screw first of course. Use a toothpick to shove the cotton wool deep into the screw hole and wick it with superglue. Give it a quick spray with the curing agent (water is good) and then try getting the screw back in. Voila! An instant well anchored screw again! Another form of composite created from cyanoacrylate and cotton! Works like a charm!
Instead of sniffing glue, why not give ToughPLA a try?
Great you can make new parts for the 3D printer to upgrade it.
Excellent TH-cam Robert!
I was thinking about this very thing the other day but instead of CY glue using epoxy formulated for penetrating into which a dozen or so percent of graphite has been added. Brush the sh@t on and put it one of those counter-top hand-held vacuum doo-dads that will vacuum a zip-lock sandwich bag while you’re making your lunch.
i made a part that i needed to be strong. so after printing it. i covered with a Triaxial Fiberglass.
That did look very effective!! Is crazy glue different to superglue?? Never seen an activator for it.. or is it more like Resin maybe?
As for the oven thing, yes without a casting medium you'd be warping and sagging long before it fills any gaps.
I often use the oven to make transparent PLA go properly clear, or to strengthen parts there was no good orientation for.
I have a big tub of salt I ground up to pack it in with.
Just wanna compact it nicely around the print, and have a nub of material sticking off the top to fill it in properly (additional 20% or so material after 100% infil).
Definitely not as easy as your solution here though! I used to use resin for it, but I also like to keep all my parts easily recylable
(Actually this is why I prefer assembly or folding now for a lot of parts 😉 )
Great, how we would hold up to heat, since its sealed off?
Does anybody know what activator he uses so I can use it
Rob is there a high heat resistant version of the printing material? Was wondering to build a stirling out of it but need something high temp...
HT PLA, Engineering PLA, Annealed PLA or CF-Nylon is your best bet for a high-temp materials. None of them can operate above 180 celcius though.
Hmm. Okay... now given your recent videos, how does the PLA hardening play a role in your project... Hmm. I can think of two uses. First: Gearing. By making something harder, you also make it more resistant to wear and tear. Hard doesn't really bend or wear, it shatters. And considering you won't have anywhere near enough force to shatter it, I'm thinking this is a strong candidate. Second: The arm of the pendulum. You're going to be having a helluva lot of torque being applied at the center/origin of the pedulum (where it'll connect to your ratcheting/non-ratcheting gear thing) depending on how tightly you wind everything and how much force you have behind it...
I am wondering how you're going to deal with the diminishing returns of the pendulum swing... You won't be removing much momentum each swing if you have some magnetic resistance at the origin, but it's not zero. And if you're adding resistance via gearing, then it's DEFINITELY not zero. I think grandfather clocks have something like a spring that gives the pendulum the tiniest of kicks each swing to maintain momentum.
I'm curious to see what you come up with!! :D
just dip it in some cheap concrete path sealer -mixed in with your carbon ink if you like-
I've been experimenting with the mercury vortex... trying different influences, magnetic, vibratory, sonic, amplified light.
I have gotten some anomalous behaviors at certain frequency levels of each. I am wondering what would happen if they are staggered like 3-phase is? Or combined in different ways and different frequencies of each spectrum...Has anyone else experimented with the mercury vortex engine? It is like the oddest thing I have ever seen. The spinning liquid is mesmerizing.
I’ve been wondering if coating in metal epoxy resin would work to a similar effect.
try flexible epoxy if you can find it. i think resin normally becomes to brittle. i suggest maybe some e6000.
I've seen these in different videos and thought its good idea to generate electricity but it has huge volts(over 50V most cases what I've seen) but either low or very low amps(nothing more than 1 amp) So was wondering what will make it have more amps than volts?
A buck converter lowers the voltage and increases the amperage but doesn’t change the wattage. A transformer could also be used. I’m not sure what type of generator you’re referring to though 🙂
so is that chemically bonding or just mechanical bonding Robert?
I think he might br wrong about annealing prints in the oven. I've never done it myself but I'vr heard of really good results if you pack them in fine grade sand.
or salt or immerse in plaster of paris
What is the activator out of curiosity?
Is it possible to print in one direction then switch 90degrees to another direction? Then keep alternating direction of print.
yes
Yeah, an oven won't be good without supporting the material by burying it in either sand or salt. And then you have to wait a long time because of sand's low thermal conductivity and your aiming for an even thermal distribution, and many ovens are dificult to get precise and accurate control over the temperature so as to get the plastic warm layers to better fuse without melting it such that you get a sand plastic composite.
What is the brand name of that glue and activator?
You can get wood PLA and metal PLA
PETG can be cheaper than PLA at times.
I don't like PLA. They are very brittle and it gets worse over time the more it absorbs moisture. I prefer Petg. The layer strength is stronger and they don't snap under stress. They typically bend before it fails, and it can handle higher temperature than PLA.
Maybe using UV hardening resins?????
Is there a specific brand of super glue u used ?
I don't think it matters much as long as it's a cyanoacrylate glue. I use Gorilla Glue or Loctite brands simply because they are bigger brands here with known consistency.