STRONGER 3D Prints with GLUE? (and CARBON FIBERS)
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I tested if you can enhance the strength of your 3D prints by covering the surface with CA glue (super glue) or epoxy. I wanted to find out if the overall strength improves and if the layers bond together better.
Since I had the materials, I also tried out how much you can improve the strength of your parts if you glue continuous carbon fibers (rovings) to the surface. Let's find out more!
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Do carbon fiber videos please.
n Hello Stefan.. Can you doing similar test? I would like to know what happend if you use infill let say 15% and into the space you inject epoxy?!
If you're doing CF tests, could you also please try reinforcing with woven cotton/polyester fabric/cloth/textile? It's much cheaper than CF, and literally everyone has some available
Happy 2020 ❤
I have experience with using carbonfiber+epoxy and fiberglass+epoxy on 3D prints
Please do a complete video on carbon reinforcement!
Also Glass fiber reinforced should do nicely and they come in nice sheets you can cut down to size, very affordable and found at auto parts store as a kit, next to the bondo and such.
I feel that a glass reinforcement comparison should include woven and "random" orientation fiber mats.
How about carbon fibre rod embedded in the print during a pause? I use cf rod or strips in all my rc planes.
I'd be super interested in that as well! Especially comparing the advantages and drawbacks of printing something and reinforcing it vs printing a mold and making your part fully out of CF + resin inside of your mold.
Actually I see three more or less obvious ways to utilise carbon fiber in combination with 3d printing (or any other fiber mats, like glass fiber, kevlar etc):
1. Print normal part, reinforce a few strategic areas with fibers and resin
2. Print a deliberately very weak part (not much infill, only one outline) to keep it light and consider it a frame of sorts for fully enclosing it with one or multiple layers of fibers. At the end it's basically a full CF composite part but some shapes will be easy to make this way which would be hard to make in a more traditional molding process
3. Print a mold, make a CF composite part, exactly like people "normally" make CF parts just with a 3d printed mold
I'd imagine each of these have their place depending on what exactly you're trying to achieve
Single handedly the best 3D Printing TH-cam channel. Why you're not at a million subs is mind blowing like the glue not strengthening anything. As a mechanical engineer, your contributions to the STEM community are incredible.
Thank you!
I never looked at his subs and just assumed he was massive bc of the use of his testing and how no brainer it is to watch his videos if you want to learn. Luck plays too much of a roll. Sad
You must not be an "actual engineer" because we do use these for more than prototyping. We use them final parts often and are always trying to better engineer our designs in all industries so they can function properly whilst being intended to be solely 3D printed. GE metal 3D prints dozens of FINAL PRODUCTION jet engine parts and nozzles, not just prototypes and they're not DIYers.
Being an engineer includes proving your design. People for years claimed putting glue into your part made it stronger, but never showed anything to prove such claims like Stefan did with simple tensile tests. Stefan made the effort to test a hypothesis the community itself was unsure of, and gave us very simple results so I'm not sure what other "raw data" you're looking for. He gave a load to failure for each instance. That's about as raw as it gets.
Did you even watch the video? He posted data graphs several times with the exact raw data you speak of. No need to act like to a child when someone points out you making obviously false and factless statements. If you don't like a video, move on. Simple.
So all his work and effort is useless because you can't read a graph and didn't get a table. Go find something else to complain about. Everyone else found this helpful bro
When you further investigate your carbon fiber reinforcement, you should use the proper type of resin for CF work instead of hobbyking epoxy.
Definitely. The working time of 15 min alone isn't optimal.
I wonder if shoe goo/amazing goop etc. would help. Flex seal could also be decent
@@CNCKitchen west systems is my epoxy of choice, it works really well.
@@CNCKitchen also try some sort of carbon fibre wrap so the entire print is reinforced
Outside of working time, I don't see it mattering much (if at all) what kind of epoxy you use for this sort of test. You're not trying to minimize the weight of the epoxy, you don't care about wicking properties. You basically don't care about anything, because the plastic will always break, and the carbon fiber never will (in his test jig). It all comes down to whether the carbon fiber is positioned correctly for the loading scenario.
Oh, the amount of heat generated by the epoxy reaction might matter, since it can deform the plastic, but I don't know if that's something you can easily account for when looking at epoxies.
3d printing + composite is really the way to go for high strength parts. I would love to see more of this.
I have used fiberglass weave and ca-glue to greatly increase strength of thin PLA parts on a mask. Works very well! :)
Can you please give more detail on how you accomplish this? Am very interested. Thanks!
@@Bronze-td8jq Pretty simple; I wet the part with ca-glue and push on fine fiberglass weave and push it on with a small brush so the CA can soak the fibreglass before it hardens. If I need more layers, I use activator between layers. This is probably not as strong as epoxy-infused glass fiber, but a lot better than plain 3d-print. Also might be a good idea to sand between layers if you want it to look good. I have used it inside masks etc so looks have not been important :)
Thank you Stephan to keep on doing research on this subject Merry Christmas!
I love the effort you put in these videos. Well done
I would love to see you test different methods of gluing pla parts together. A practical application being a full size Marvel mjolnir replica that's printed in several parts. CA glue, epoxy, JB Weld, PVC cement, stuff like that.
thank you for doing all the technical videos. These are the types of videos I really appreciate. I want to make the strongest prints with the most appropriate materials I can.
Very interesting Stefan, especially the epoxy actually reducing strength.
It might be worthwhile putting the parts into a pressure chamber and a slower curing time for the epoxy.
I use woven glass fibers with epoxy. Unlike carbon fibers they are transparent and almost invisible. Because the fibers are woven they do not have a weaker orientation.
Sorry, just saying "woven" doesn't give us enough info. Perhaps you are mixing up chopped strand fiber mat with woven which does have less specific fiber orientation but have other issues. Woven for sure will have weaker orientation...
And are more affordable at comparable results (for us mere mortals is good enough), and very easily acquired locally at auto parts stores. That's defn bang for the buck results. Makes PLA not such a crappy spotter at GYM afterall...
But CF is much, much stronger than glass. A cheaper alternative is aramid fiber, the generic name for Kevlar.
okleydokley technically there are some fiberglass nearing or equal too average carbon fiber (higher stiffness and ultimate load strength), I’m sure it’s probably more expensive than CF and CF just has a cool aesthetics factor! I’m not sure of any industry besides aerospace that uses the stronger ranges of fiberglass. Kevlar like you said is an excellent material and well suited for some other tasks as it happens to make fantastic flexible hinges for composite planes (when making a UAV jet plane, we used a semi-monocoque design so the outside was carbon fiber and then we used a little strip of Kevlar as the hinges for flaps).
Fiberglass is so much cheaper though so I understand why people want to use it, definitely better than nothing! It was like $3 for a decent piece of extremely light (like 100 grams per square meter, normal checker pattern stitch) fiberglass when I bought some recently, but CF you have to pay out the nose for that stuff (the closest I have on hand is some almost ghost weight, it’s like 20 grams per square meter and it’s like a random squiggle mesh that’s so thin and hollow you can see through it, basically min weight possible that’s useful, so you can make incredibly light weight slow flyer planes, but the cost is insane).
I’d say it’s about 20-50x more for CF cloth than conventional fiberglass cloth, but sometimes the project is mostly about man hours and mold times and it may end up being only like 20% extra cost in the end, so like for this video it was so small of a patch like what’s the difference between 1 vs 2 pennies? Nothing basically, might as well use the best one. Big projects you really gotta analyze if it’s needed!
@@jakegarrett8109 glass fiber can be proper tough as nails.
Ever thought of printing the hooks hollow and filling the inside with resin, maybe through a hole left in the top. I've often wondered if it would be possible to add some resin filler during the printing process with a very low amount of infill.
LOL I just thought of the same thing now.
Excellent wideo again! I was sooo waiting for extra hook with longer carbon fiber reinforcements! That seems to have good potential.
Yes, I was waiting for that too.
Would love to see more tests with the carbon fibre, both the continuous strand and the normally available chopped CF infused PLA. Thanks!
Wow, didn't expect those results. This is fantastic - thank you Stefan! Also, was thinking, I wonder how something like 3DGloop would stack up against CA and 2-part epoxy?
3D Printing Nerd I was just about to suggest PLA 3D Gloop.
I love how you are so intrested in these topics. You deserve to have more subscibers!
I've made a few parts with carbon fiber reinforcement for my airsoft replicas (variations of ergonomic pistol grips). Since I printed them standing I was worried about layer separation. The method I used was coating the part with resin, wrap the twill on the pistol grip then use peel-ply and a vacuum bag. The first grip had some torture tests involved hammering on all 3 axes, loading the part with 10kg and heating it to ~90 degrees centigrade, etc. It survived so well that I sanded it down and applied a thin coat of resin and after a polish it was mounted on my replica. I presume the vacuum helps the resin flow in the small spaces between the layers while the carbon shell gives it good impact and shape retaining performance.
However, without vacuum, I cannot see how the resin could get in between the layers considering its viscosity and surface tension.
10:35 had me rolling, that delivery. :D :D
Please do some more with the Carbon Fiber reinforcement.
Good job with the squarespace promotion quick and to the point. Progress bar was a very nice touch too.
Things to try:
1. Same hooks, but physically thinner. Printed at 100% infill. Ideally they should have about the same amount of filament as the hooks in this video, but packed into a thinner hook.
2. Take the hooks from #1 and submerge them in a slow and runny epoxy. Put that into a vacuum chamber so you can pull the air out of the crevices in the hook and replace the air with epoxy. Remove from the chamber and hang the hooks up to cure, while letting any excess epoxy drip off.
3. Have some holes going through the hook. Fill the holes with epoxy and carbon fiber threads.
4. Same as #3, but use normal fiberglass fiber/threads.
Thanks and good luck!
I really like your first idea, testing different cross section geometry using the same amount of filament.
I've printed a PLA spline for a gearbox hollow. Then poured epoxy and some metal nuts as filler. The epoxy becomes super hard, and there is only 2 plastic shells.
cut up some glass fibers and mix in with the resin
Stefan YES, Please YES!
Yes to More tests of increased strength, stiffness and impact resistance created by surface or buried (pausing the print) epoxied carbon/glass fiber roving (& fabric) reinforcements. I think this is a quick, simple & cheap method to GREATLY improve the real life functionality of 3D printed objects.
to add another data point - I had some prints that I rushed (making a prop rifle for a cosplay)...had very very bad layer adhesion because of the print speed I used. I had to reglue them together with CA and epoxy after since they wanted to split constantly.
You are trying to improve a well calibrated print and seeing minor results. I don't want to recommend it as a crutch, but to a bad print, the glues are absolutely a life saver.
Yet another great video! Always love your content!
How I strengthen is to use the part as a skeleton and wrap it in fiberglass
@@RazgrizDuTTA Currently brush and squeegy (spelling?) Still experimenting to find the best way. Parts are 12to 16inches in some direction. so pretty big. The final product will be 130-150 lb 30x30x48 in thereabout robot.
@@RazgrizDuTTA That is what the experiments are for. Been looking for something but epoxy to use. EPOXY on PLA is not good as its exothermic and can cause distortion. Its a pain too as you got to mix it. On ABS you can use ABS slurry make it as thick as possible where you can still work it through the glass and soften the part up with acetone then acetone weld the ABS slurry soaked glass to it. now Gorilla glue adheres well to HIPS and ABS but makes the glass brittle as its extremely hard and seems to crush some of the fibers. On foam core Polycrylic works well also on cardboard and wood. On cardboard and wood Elmers glue all works well too. But 2 part poly ethylene or epoxy is best but you got to work quick. I will still run some tests with certain jb-weld products that have been specially formulated for HIPS and PETG. So atm its still work in progress to find the best solution possible
you got me thinking about merely inserting strong stuff into the print. and i think m3 bolts are strong. we often think of using bolts to join parts together, but merely having inserts for a long bolt might be worthwhile to make strong segments where parts take a lot of punishment.
@@pepe6666 We insert all kind of things sometimes even aluminum tubing. You can see an early prototype move here. www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/3/6/36e8fbdd064daf1db337ffb20366218e0d2115d2.mp4 I think at that point it was about 9kg of filament reinforced at some places with 1/2 in 16 gauge aluminum square tube
@@martinpirringer8055 Does adding the aluminum made the prototype significantly stronger?
If yes, do you have any documents or links i can read?
I´ve been looking for ideas to make my prototypes stronger so if you have any information, let me know.
This vid did a fine job of showing there is little improvement from a glue coating. Stress risers are critical to real world strength.
I would like to see more with composites but it is a very complicated topic -maybe not for general audience.
For example:
-PLA might not be compatible with common composites because it shrinks after printing and is uniquely amorphous. Or maybe the one flaw smooths over the problem the other creates. A good test would be to print, then glass the exterior, then "anneal". If the composite does not survive this basic test the components are incompatible.
-ABS may make a more compatible core
-the adhesion to the core is the big challenge and difference in stiffness creates a stress riser at the junction. Carbon fiber is least likely to work. Glass is much closer and even polyester or nylon fabric might work better. The question on every test should be where did it fail? When the sandwich stops failing at the junction you can start optimizing -shell for strength and stiffness, core for shear strength.
Top quality videos, you definitely deserve millions of subs
Nice experience, congratulations for your initiative.
This video is really really educational, congratulations! You clearly show the importance of printing direction and how much do carbon fibers improve part toughness and the importance of the fibers positioning. I would have loved if you had tested 1, 2 and 3 layers in the inside side of the parts printed in XY direction and Z direction, this would have been superb!! Maybe an idea for a future video.
It would be awesome to know more about the effect of the carbon fiber reinforcement. Very nice video.
You are one of the main information sources for 3D printing. Keep pushing.
You can also try a glue which has ethyl acetate as solvent, since it also dissolves PLA and should make an inter-linking structure.
Painting the part with clear nail polish would work. Acetone-free nail polish remover also contains the stuff if I remember correctly.
The timing is so perfect for me, just picked up an ender 3 on 11:11 sale ... Told myself I wasn't allowed one until I learned how to get started with Fusion360(since 99% of what I'll prob print is functional stuff and tests of them lol). Having never used ANY design or altering software(windows paint doesn't count for dots and lines, although...nevermind) I still have a huge mountain ahead, but I got as far as designing with threads and most of the basics, I'd love to get into assembly and fitting parts together, seeing stress points...basically the good stuff that you DO :D And that brings me to what I started to say.... AWESOME content, exactly what I needed when I needed it. I was just bitching last night in chat during Joel's giveaway that PLA is such a disappointment when you need functional stuff because of layer separation and then you give us this. I'm assuming resin filled is next? If not, It Should be ... that's my next trial for my functional junk, PETG filled with warmed up resin to flow nicely into infill. I've got some two ton stuff laying around somewhere from a project a while back, that should do nicely lol Jjust ordered a roll of petg, since now after a month of testing I've gotten things really close to dialed(just did a complete thorough check over the WHOLE printer and Glad I did, just about everything needed an additional turn with the wrench and the bed rollers were actually never aligned 100% and started wearing funny, but I detected it early and greased it all. HUGE improvement since my first print where I scratched the aluminum bed...I guess I'll forever have my very first imPRINT :( so i'm ready to try PETG and if that goes well maybe some tougher stuff .
Once again, awesome stuff, will be watching it all. Can't wait to see what else I get to learn.
Happy Holidays and a Super New YEAR!!
I love this series and think it can be a very good basis for actual construction with 3D parts involved. For the fibers. You already did simulations where virtual fibers or reinforcement should be added. If you leave a actual a canal or whole where you can pull the wetened fibers through (almost like sewing or like the steel enforcements in concrete, you will get an improvement and still have the clean look. Of course for perfect results you need to make sure the channel is full and also that there are no air bubbles. For a project I used already carbon, resin, and 3D printing for a wind turbine with 2m diameter. Iff applied correctly you can have the quick results and "perfect form" of printing with a strong and usable result
For some applications it might be a good idea to design 3d printed shapes that are optimized to be reinforced with carbon fiber material. Maybe spiral grooves. Maybe a tunnel. Also, the horizontal orientation fibers still confer some strength in the vertical direction, because they have a thickness and aren't perfectly horizontal everywhere.
Would LOVE to see more composite reinforced 3d printing. That's what I'm working on now for my robotics team.
You should try with a solvent glue, like Weld-on #3 (Methylene Chloride based). It works on PLA and ABS just as well. Due to its really low viscosity, it does get in between layers and gaps dissolving and welding the plastic.
I've been using XTC3D from Smooth-on to reinforce parts for a few years. That combined with proper print orientation seems to have helped increase load. I'd be interested in how that performs vs this epoxy.
Great vid! Always enjoy seeing the results of your experiments.
Impressive and informative video as always man :)
Always love your informative, engineering based projects as appose to 'look, I printed some drawer handles'
Would like to see further investigation of the carbon fibre as well as a comparison to glass fibre reinforcement.
Thanks for another interesting video, Stefan. Happy holidays!
Ich benutze gelegentlich cfk verstärkte Teile aus dem 3d Drucker oder gedruckte Formen für die Verarbeitung von Carbon/Epoxy
Für Funktionsteile mußt Du für beide Verfahren ein Bisschen umdenken.
Roving verstärkte Teile profitieren von Nuten, in die Du die Fasern einlegen oder einwickeln kannst. Hierbei kannst Du auch Haken und Pins andrucken, die beim Wickeln helfen. Zu enge Umlenkradien lassen die Fasern brechen (!) besonders bei HM-Fasern.
Ich habe auch schon Faserträger gedruckt, bei denen ich den Kern anschließend entfernt habe.
Beim Formenbau must Du, anders als beim Verstärken, darauf achten, daß das gewünschte Teil _nicht_ fest mit dem Druck verklebt. Hier ist dann ggf. ein Trennmittel erforderlich, dessen Lösemittel die gedruckte Form nicht anlöst. Deinen Haken könntest Du praktisch im CAD von einem Formblock subtrahieren und diesen dann geeignet splitten. Diese Negativform kannst Du dann mit harzgetränkten Fasern füllen, die Formhälften schließen und alles härten lassen. Nach Entformen und Besäumen hast Du dann einen massiven Haken aus CFK.
Kannst mir auch gern die Datei für den haken schicken und Ich mach Dir die Form.
More CF testing! Awesome results!
I own a company that manufactures carbon fiber car parts and would be extra interested in any carbon fiber tests you do. I just picked up my first 3D printer and have some ideas of how I want to marry the two techniques.
Hi Stefan, your tests are amazing and I love to watch all of them, it's just too curious what happens and moreover why things happen, that's engineering at its best, driven by pure passion!
Well the cf-reinforcement test I liked most, not only because I'm and aviation-geek but also due to the not too little potential which carbon (or other) fibres have. I'd suggest it would be easier to fix the fibres if there was a groove in you test-objects (the "niners") for lamination. And there you could play with the height of the fibre-layers and even further with fibre orientation in terms of torsion stiffness or shearforce.
Another interesting point would be, to change the carbon-fibres for glass, aramide, polyacrylic, maybe some organic ones (cotton, hemp, ...) and see what happens?
I missed another thing, to strengthen the test-objects by glue or resin, it might be helpful not only to apply it on the upper surface but to ensure, that some cavities allow the fluid to creep between the layers and there to increase the layer-adhesion.
Another great video, thanks Stefan! As you correctly noted the epoxy has a lower failure strain than the filament you used which has a more plastic failure mechanism, I wonder if regular PLA would be a better match to the failure strain of this epoxy? Alternatively there might be a toughened epoxy with a higher failure strain that could do a better job also.
Very happy that this channel has English subtitles, I can "hear".
Would love to see a video on strength benefits of infill overlap!
Stefan, watching your videos makes me feel I was switched to the Discovery channel (or similar) and watching high production informative and interesting scientific episode. Appreciate the ton of work you did to make it happen.
very good video, Gut gemacht Stefan!
Great video, thanks for doing all the measurements!
The optimal placement for the carbon fiber would be along the path of maximum tension. Attached to the relatively weak plastic by feathering it out to spread the load. As a first guess, reaching up to the inside top of the hanging opening along the closed side, down through the narrow neck (close to the inside surface), following the inside curve of the hook to the bottom, and probably terminating somewhere on the bottom front of the open end.
Not sure how much (or whether) the fiber on the outside adds to the strength.
If weight is a concern, the base design of the hook has areas that could be greatly improved (narrow neck at high load area, wide & wasteful at e.g. the end of the hook), though I will guess this to be deliberate to provide a known failure point.
Your results were as I expected. The breakage at the end of the CF reinforcement was perfect. I started using CA in 1973 with my RC models. I stopped using it when I became sensitized to it in the early 1990's. A single whiff of it will give me flu like symptoms for several days. I miss using such a useful material.
Thanks for all the testing.
P100 respirator with organic vapor cartridge can get you back in the game
i did similar test but not in 3d printed world.. the epoxy resin will heat up while curing and therefore will affect the PLA bond but epoxy itself is not a structural component.. it is sort of keeping the fibers/ filament together .. CF will will perform however it twists (fibers have flex) depends on the type of epoxy you use.. If you could get a hand on vacuum / release / pump system (foam and core with PVA and make the fibers woven and fully impregnated it would probably damaged your jig.. same might happen if you use a layer of woven or unwoven fiberglass or kevlar or hybrid.. .. Carbon fibers themselves work as unit .. if there is a hairy crack it all goes... and also repair of CF is very difficult and usually 1 cm crack requires 10 cm repair... good job Stefan.. thank you for all these.. I like to watch this as I have done same things just using weights and springs 25 years ago ... mostly with wood during boat building
Could you also try making a channel inside of your part and fill it throught the hole with epoxy resin?
That would probably make it heavier without increasing the strength.
Or you could run some carbon fiber thru to hole with resin.
I've always wondered if you could make prints with holes for post-print liquid infill.
a great project as always mate, please keep it up mate
When you do the CF video please perform impact and bending tests!
Great content as always!
Another classy video! The failure mode that hits me most is delamination so using carbon fibre is a probable solution. The CF filled polycarbonate filament is OK but still weak in this plane. I had considered putting channels or holes through the high stress points and filling with potting resin with CF laid in or pushed through. I do use holes with welding wire pushed through with epoxy and that is very successful. Time is my enemy!
A cool technique I recently saw on reddit, was a guy who prints large figures and stuff with only two walls and zero infill and then fills them with epoxy by slush casting the inside with a few layers of resin. He drills holes in the bottom, injects thin resin and moves the part around to coat the inside and let's it settle in the smallest or weakest part so they become solid.
I'm very curious how well this works and if it's worth it! Faster and stronger prints, potentially?!
I need to know.
Awesome tests, very informative. I was thinking if you could pause the print while in xy orientation, lift z axis, fill the part with some epoxy and resume print after setting of the resin/glue.
Thank you for the video! I really appreciate the animated graphs next to the test videos. By the way, at 5:56, was the text supposed to say "Thin CA Glue" instead of "Refer[e]nce"?
Yes, i would be interested to see how carbon fiber reinforced parts behave and how strong they are
Please further investigate the fiber reinforcement, I would love to know more about it!
I grew up on a beach in Southern California and surfed since I was ten. My best friend's dad tried to make him a surfboard by applying fiberglass and resin to a cheap styrofoam board. It was a disaster. The resin dissolved the styrofoam. (Polyurethane is use to make surfboards.) I think anything that dissolves in acetone will also dissolve in epoxy resin. That may be why your samples were weakened. Maybe, after the resin hardened, the sample would continue to get stronger as the solvents evaporate. I have seen in industry where vacuum is used in a process called "wet out." Maybe you could try a filament that doesn't dissolve in acetone.
You may try to approach your designs as 3D printed forms to wrap resin impregnated carbon or fiberglass cloth over where the finished fiberglass/carbon would bear the bulk of the load and the 3D printed part makes most of the shape.
A local startup is using 3D prints with the bottom shell print missing. They flip the part and fill with UV resin to make a solid part. Its only half as messy as just making a resin mould but you could easily inlay a strip of carbon fiber while adding layers to cure.
Hey, here's something I picked up from drone pilots. Super glue can be hardened instantly using baking soda. Cyanoacrylate and sodium bicarbonate. They say it is harder than glue itself. It's for fixing broken blades. A broken propeller blade is similar to a layer adhesion problem on a thin part. If it is actually that strong it might make for a good video. Love your work
Good research data, thanks. Do you have any more on how layer ironing affects strength?
Good stuff. Results as i wiuld expect. Using carbon tows in a part is an excellent way to increase strength.
Fill the hooks with epoxy, superglue, cement, PVA glue. Create channels in infill for the filler to fill inside in different patterns and one in solid.
Hi Stefan, great video!! I’m wondering what would happen if the hooks are printed with a pre-determined hole in which you can inject epoxy or resin to “fill” the stress point(s).. maybe a stupid idea but I share it anyway
I've been using super glue even before 3d printing as a crude additive manufacturing technique. Even if it doesn't add much strength it makes for an easy smoother before paint
I played around with a material call tulle; an open mesh fabric used in garments.
About 10% fabric, 90% holes.
Anyway, it can be layered into a print to make a support mesh for 'chain mail', without the links!
Pause the print, slip in a piece of tulle, resume print.
The holes in the fabric let the plastic 'print through', incorporating the fabric into the print.
A search for 'carbon fiber netting' pulls up a few promising leads: mosquito netting with high carbon % and bound in nylon...might be a thicker than normal layer, but should be strong.
Y'all not afraid to edit gcode...
The Holy Grail would a netting form of carbon/kevlar.
Hey Stefan, I have had this idea for a while. For prints that are thick enough, one could print a cavity in side the object and insert a piece of metal. It could be an AL rod or some spring steel and such. It would be hidden and add tons of strength. I haven't tried it but it should work good. Thanks for the video.
or fill with epoxy the entire cavity ;)
You would not fill with epoxy because it is an exothermic reaction and would melt the print out of spec. Also it is too brittle. What you would do is model a thread into the 3D print use matching size threaded rod. Run the rod through to get the hole to spec then put a glob of epoxy on the hole and a line up the rod. Thread it all the way in, then trim flush with a cut-off wheel.
@@Anyone700 Yes, that's the idea, of course the details would depend on the situation and application. Good point about the heat. And brittle not bridle.
@@Anyone700 That is very very size and shape specific. Using slow curing(or low heat generating) epoxy it'll be just fine.
I bought a load of cheap 3, 4, 5mm drill bits once off eBay, and have used them for exactly that.
I think you should try with the change of temperature effects on the prints with epoxy. Because even if it doesn't improve strength it must affect the temperature behaviour and also hardness.
About CF it is very interesting the failure mode where it fails at the end of the fibers. But there are also law density mesh which will add a little material but the strength can be much better in both lateral and transverse direction. Thanks for the video, loved it.
I was thinking to paint PLA parts with SLA resin both for strength improvement and also to fill the surface to get a better sanded surface.. haven't tried it yet but plan to do on a R/C airplane spinner maybe tomorrow.
Stefan You should make some vacum to the epoxy enter inside the print!
If you want i can show you my setup!
i wish you did more stuff like reinforcing and modifying and post processing prints for strength etc.
I would love to see some more test results with the carbon fiber reinforcements...
Yes, please give us more carbon fiber improved stuff! :)
Good material! What about temperature resistance of the parts treated with CA? I covered some Prusa parts that work close to the nozzle with super glue and it looks like it works.
Love your videos, i would love to see the carbon reinforced hooks, and I have a question for the layer adhesion part have you tried dichlorethan which is able to disolve PLA ? :) keep up the good work
I would be curious on how 100% infill holds up. I print functional automotive motorsports parts for race teams. I print all of these with CF-PETG at 100% infill.
Really good video and shows the importance of negative findings just not +ve ones. Have you ever looked into direct extrusion of plastic into the hollow of the part (if that is possible)? I note that it is said that most of teh strength is in the surfac layers though. Also what about using a post oven heat process?
Super interesting and useful information. Mahalo for sharing! : )
You have excellent videos! Vielen Danke. I'd like to point out that in this kind of scenario you should use CA glue with activator. Have a little research on matter. Opens many doors. Also CF test would be interestin to see reinforcement only in the inside curve of the hook as it seems to bend the hook.
Nice video, to complete the test, could you compare a thicker printed part with equal outside dimensions as the one covered with CA glue ? And further more one with continuous carbon fiber all around the hook ?
Worth revisiting? YES! I would even go so far and think about a technique that is somwhat similar to making magnet or metal inlays, but with CF. I.e. Stopping the print, insertig the fiber and then print on. But you would need a method of wetting the fiber then...hmmm..
Hi... thank you and congratulations for you channel... my question is if you put (handling inside and outside) epoxy resin in a carbon fiber 3D print piece (for example a pipe) with high proportion fiber and porosity... how its change the properties? ... it should very interesting to compare this piece with the same but without epoxy.
Once I've printed PLA lever, it consisted of 2 parts. I used leftovers of epoxy - it was super liquid and super runny, and full cure time was something like three days. If I remember correctly - it was clear epoxy for floors coating. All epoxy become absorbed inside of my printed parts (not outside as in your case) and all gaps between PLA "fibers" were filled with epoxy - capillary forces did their job. Guess different epoxy will give you different results.
I'm going to suggest that glass fibre roving would have a similar effect to the carbon fibre. CF is used primarily for it's linear stiffness once it's epoxied into a component. That's why I use carbon fibre tubes, and have also used CF roving, in the wings of the foam gliders I build. But woven glass fibre cloth, or even GF tissue, (which is omni-directional), will make a BIG difference to the layer strength test results. Though, as you discovered, you would need to cover the hook past the point of suspension with the fibre. GF adds strength cheaply, and Kevlar is even stronger, though waaaay more expensive.
People! Please be aware of the safety issues involved with glass/carbon/kevlar fibres. These materials release microscopic fibres when handled, so please wear some safety gloves, a mask and eye protection! Also ventilate the area if you are using epoxy or polyester resin!
Oh yes, that reminds me Stephan, polyester resin is never as perfectly rigid as epoxy, so it may not suffer from that fine cracking we saw under load. So it may last a little bit longer in your tests. Heh, it's also cheaper.
Have you considered printing your hook hollow and injection resin / concrete etc inside and compare as it should remove the Z axis weakness in a way that we can easily be done. Possibly you could mix the filling with your variable infill method?
Interested to see more of reinforce 3d prints.
Your test machine perfectly played the first note of “dancing queen”
Awesome video. Tom did some post processing of FDM prints using resin, could you try that as well?
GEEEZ, i'm in awe of how nice that printer is printing. I have 3 printers and cannot seem to tune them in to look even close to that nice.
I once repaired a scissors with locktite super glue and a mesh of thin shielding wiring, that I took from some coaxial cable lying around. I embedded wiring into a plastic using a soldering iron. Scissors are still working to this day for about year and a half. Maybe you can use similar method to add more strength to your 3D prints?
Great idea! I was thinking of using the CR10s and pausing printing and inserting fibreglass into pre-printed gaps then continuing printing. or using two or three extruder 3D printer to use different filaments to improve strength any ideas on this?
Very interesting subject matter and testing methodology. Just for curiosity, I would like to see what would happen if you used longer stips of fiber and one of fiber by itself as a control. Very well done.
Try using a vacuum chamber. It seems to draw the glue into the voids in the 3D print. Another video here used it with just PLA I think to make a print airtight. With a low viscosity ca or epoxy it would then be bonding the actual layers?
Wie immer ein sehr interessantes Video! Ich mag deine wissenschaftliche herangehensweise.
Wie wäre es, wenn du die Oberfläche mal durch Wärme glättest/verschweißt (z.B. mit einem Bügeleisen, Lötkolben, Gasbrenner, heißluftföhn etc.)?
I see a lot of people asking you to do a full video on The carbon fiber as well as Woven fiberglass.
Even one recommendation to add fibers inside the print, while the printer is paused.
This could lead to prints with optimized geometry where fiberglass or Carbon fiber could be added to the internal structure of the print