JB Weld is good stuff. Interesting method. Glad I watched this. I'm considering a similar repair on my 40 year old drill press. About 55 years ago I did a similar repair on a fuel pump using JB Weld on a 1965 chevy. The body broke where the fuel line was screwed into the fuel pump housing. I applied JB Weld to the broken parts and pressed them back together and then applied a liberal amount all around the body. Keeping the threaded hole clear of epoxy was the tricky part. After it cured it worked great. I sold the car about 5 years later and it was still working great. Not sure what the metal was, either aluminum or "pot metal", but certainly not steel or iron. Thanks for the video.
Got a similar break on my lathe to repair, this has been very helpful, thanks! Would be good to come back to it after a few months of service, see how it's holding up!
I'm glad to have helped and good luck with your own repair. I'll give you one little tip. Cleanness and good prep is everything when it comes to this kind of work. Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching. Good idea about the follow up! 👍
Cheers, I'v done some fairly heavy work on it, well heavy by my home shop standards haha, while making the fly cutter in the latest video and it's not been any issue so far. Touch wood it will last forever. I might touch on it at some point in the future. Thanks for the support.
Thanks very much, glad you enjoyed it. Carbon is a bit deceptive, we see all these pretty twill weave parts on display but unidirectional unwoven is a fair bit stiffer and stronger as there are no crimps in the fibres just not as sexy looking haha. FYI there might be quite a bit of composites content coming up over the next few years. Here is a link to a paper that discusses the effects in detail. www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2019/8439530/ Thanks for watching and thanks for the support.👍👍
I am considering this as a possible option to repair a cracked trunnion in a 1940's Walker-Turner table saw that I'm restoring on my own channel. Can you tell me how I would find similar carbon fibers, like what terms I might use in a search query? How's your repair holding up? Thanks for sharing this technique! Cheers!
Im repairing a crack on a drill press body where the pillar inserts and a grub screw holds it. A weak point that has cracked when a lot of force has been applied on the press in the past. I don't have a welder and had planned to use a pipe strap/clamp but also have JB Weld and may use a section of the pipe clamp with the epoxy instead to create a stronger outcome without the slight stretch a screw tightened clamp has.
Hi, nice job. Could you just have filled the holes with plasticine or similar? If so what is the advantage of using the machined plugs you used? Thanks
great work, well prepared and scientific thinking , gave me an idea for cast piece on engine block ive broke off from overtightening ! which is on stage one at mo with epoxy only ..so far so good ....
This was very useful thank you. I've got a break on a large 4 foot cst iron French 18th century crucifix and one of the cruciform arms has broken off… so can't think of a solution to reattach it as there is such a small surface area between the two pieces… obviously cant weld as its cast iron but this method might help thanks.
Did you put any epoxy in the crack before attaching the two pieces or just around it? I have to repair my mailbox where the aluminum pieces broke away from the pole.
Pre heat, sil bronze, slow cool. I dont think I'd glue my bridgeport, but I would attempt tig brazing it. The OEM part is 680bucks, but you can get a knockoff for $200. $200 is a fair price for a new feed nut bracket and ya should be able to get a used one easily. They made a ton of these.
I did consider silicone bronze but didn't have any and I didn't really fancy getting any down the locking screw hole or the backlash adjuster hole when I didn't have the right size taps to re thread them. I also had all the stuff for the Carbon method on hand so it was essentially free. Back in the machine now and seems to be doing alright. Did see the $200 ones when I had a look but can't justify that at the moment to be honest. Also getting one over to the UK from the US at the moment the way the world is may have taken a long time. Hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. 👍
Would this work for a car repair? The block of the engine is Aluminum I need to make a repair where you screw & mount the alternator since it cracked off & that’s part of the engine too. Keeping in mind it’s right next to the cylinders that go into the engine & they get really hot when running the car.
It will be very interesting to see how this repair holds up. I would never consider welding as an alternative. Welding cast iron is fraught with problems. Unless you have access to the necessary sophisticated pre and post weld muffle furnace you will get very hard brittle carbides forming at the edge of the weld area. A far safer alternative is brazing as the iron isn't raised to fusing temperature.
Its been in the machine for a little while now. Tends to only get light use as it's in my home shop but it's holding up fine so far. Couldn't agree more about welding cast iron, it's just a total pain. Thanks for the support.
o yea when i was a kid my neighbor was an old farmer and i helped him weld quite a few cast-iron things and he certainly had no sophisticated anything first we would get a couple soup pots full of sand put them in his kitchen oven heat them as hot as the oven would go then he would heat the parts up with a torch then he'd weld them then we would pack the sand all a round the weld if it was some thing big and a lot of times we would put a old moving blanket over it he said it helped hold the heat in a litle but mostly to keep the wind from cooling the sand off to fast. he said that was to keep it from cracking and becoming brittle. we never had no problems
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. I did consider welding or brazing but didn't have the correct size taps to chase the treads or the correct rods for that matter haha. So thought i'd try something a little different. Thanks for watching.
I've never seen that before. I had no idea that it was even possible. I understand about fibres in a matrix ie composites. But surely, all you've done is glue some fibre to the metal? I'm sure I'm wrong.
Hi Carl. In essence yes it's just fibres in glue stuck to the part. In reality it's slightly more complex.. but not much haha. Fibre strength, stiffness and orientation are all significant factors. I didn't really fancy welding the part as I didn't have the right size taps to chase the threads so I needed another way to do the repair. Had all the stuff on hand so thought i'd show another way to skin the cat. I was thinking it might be handy for people who don't have welding / brazing kit. Hope you are well. Cheers
@@Handmadeextreme I am well and thanks for asking. I'm still on a ship off Norway but should be back in the UK early June. Then I've got to work out how to drive from one end of the country to the other and then back to bring my family home, without me or them getting Covid or breaking the lockdown regs. I guess composites are something I'll never understand. I studied them a bit in my aircraft days and didn't really get it then. I understand about the different lay directions etc for the different stresses on your part. It's a great method of repairing that part that I never would have thought of. Thanks for showing it.
Thank you for this! I was trying to figure out how to repair my old treadle sewing machine leg that snapped off, without having to hire someone to weld it. This seems much cheaper lol
@@andregunther4200 I was able to repair one of the joins but not the other. I used JB Weld on both: the first one worked because I was able to hold it at the correct angle: it’s holding really well. I think the second one could have worked if I had made a mold/splint to hold it while the weld dried. I might try again later. My neighbor also suggested drilling into both parts and screwing a thin plate of steel on either side as a permanent splint, which I think also would work. For now, I’m just using a piece of 2x4 to prop it up and it still sews beautifully :)
Wouldn’t it have made more sense to glue at least a layer of fiber then add more after adding the resin? Just a thought more control. Good video though, I will use the approach.
Surface prep really needs to get rid of all oil and other lubricants to make the epoxy stick. Then you always use gloves with handling epoxy as that stuff really is not sold next to the multivitamins in the shop :-) Fun trivia - if you let the alu oxidize a bit, overnight or so - the epoxy will peel off even after setting. Might be a bit of shrinkage tough holding the plugs in place. If you want to glue alu with epoxy, you need to wet sand the alu with epoxy to avoid the oxydation issues. Cool repair! Please do report back on any issues later as this is a very interesting method compared to welding or brazing cast iron fittings.
Hi Rolf, great to hear from you again. Absolutely right! Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to composites work. I forgot to mention that in the video, Ooops. Right about the gloves too; Getting hold of them at the moment is a bit of a challenge though. Interesting reading about the aluminium. I don't suppose you have a background in aeronautical do you? Those are words I have had told to me before when I was working with bits of plane. Have you tried using alacrom1200 as a surface prep. After de-ox and clean. Now that's really nasty stuff. Hope you are well, and thank you for the continued support.
It's definitely a bit of a week point in the system. That said if it doesn't get overtightened I expect it would never break. Either way the repair seems to be holding up well despite a few sceptics saying it will never work. Thanks for the support 👍
Personally I don't like the result but kudos for your of the box thinking, but please don't call this 'engineering'. Few tips, when I used to do carbon fibre repairs I used glad wrap at the end over the job and stretch tight plus tape at the ends to seal and it makes the surface all nice and smooth at the end, just have to get the bubbles out before sealing. For odd shapes use condoms as they stretch good. I also think your mix ratio was off, or possibly the shelf life was past as JB weld shouldn't be tacky when it is cured. Also next time consider putting some wax or something on your plugs and leave them in and take out at the end. Could you use body filler to make the finished repair a little more attractive?
Thanks for the feedback, what sort of things were you doing repairs on? I like the condoms idea, that's neat, i'll be sure to remember that. I have a few composite jobs coming up. Might be handy. I tend to vac bag if I want to smooth something out or make sure there are no air pockets. For this I really didn't see the need as it's buried down inside the machine and never seen. Form very much follows function for this one. Thanks for watching. 👍
@@Handmadeextreme kayaks and canoes and associated paddles... So a mix of funny shapes and layups. Not as bad as that shape you have there though. The condoms were used on the 'nose' or 'tail' repairs at the ends. The lube acted as a mould release too hahaha. Thicker plastic than gladwrap is better as it won't wrinkle as easy. vacbags would probably achieve a better result :)
Ah, awesome. One of my friends used to be a laminator for valley canoe and kayaks. He comments here quite regularly. You might have noticed my Jackson Superstar in the back of some of the shots in the videos. Always fancied making my own boat from scratch. Maybe one day... I'll just put it on the too do list haha. 👍
They are horrible aren't they. I'm a big fan of the resin infusion method of laminating. Does away with all the wet resin and constantly racing against the clock to get the job done before it gels...and the mess..oh the mess.. no more of that either. Thanks for watching. 👍
@@Handmadeextreme Hahaha, fiberglassing small parts, gets you dirty and covered in resin in no time! Infusion laminating is great if you have the tools, way less messy.
JB Weld is good stuff. Interesting method. Glad I watched this. I'm considering a similar repair on my 40 year old drill press. About 55 years ago I did a similar repair on a fuel pump using JB Weld on a 1965 chevy. The body broke where the fuel line was screwed into the fuel pump housing. I applied JB Weld to the broken parts and pressed them back together and then applied a liberal amount all around the body. Keeping the threaded hole clear of epoxy was the tricky part. After it cured it worked great. I sold the car about 5 years later and it was still working great. Not sure what the metal was, either aluminum or "pot metal", but certainly not steel or iron. Thanks for the video.
Got a similar break on my lathe to repair, this has been very helpful, thanks! Would be good to come back to it after a few months of service, see how it's holding up!
I'm glad to have helped and good luck with your own repair. I'll give you one little tip. Cleanness and good prep is everything when it comes to this kind of work. Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching. Good idea about the follow up! 👍
Very clever repair. Would love to hear in the future how it holds up. If you have the time an update vid would be great.
Cheers, I'v done some fairly heavy work on it, well heavy by my home shop standards haha, while making the fly cutter in the latest video and it's not been any issue so far. Touch wood it will last forever. I might touch on it at some point in the future. Thanks for the support.
Nicely done presentation. I'd never used JB Weld on a significant repair, and I'm glad I watched this before I tried.
Man that's interesting, I was worried when you used individual strands but seeing how you laid them out makes total sense! Awesome job
Thanks very much, glad you enjoyed it. Carbon is a bit deceptive, we see all these pretty twill weave parts on display but unidirectional unwoven is a fair bit stiffer and stronger as there are no crimps in the fibres just not as sexy looking haha. FYI there might be quite a bit of composites content coming up over the next few years. Here is a link to a paper that discusses the effects in detail.
www.hindawi.com/journals/amse/2019/8439530/
Thanks for watching and thanks for the support.👍👍
I am considering this as a possible option to repair a cracked trunnion in a 1940's Walker-Turner table saw that I'm restoring on my own channel. Can you tell me how I would find similar carbon fibers, like what terms I might use in a search query? How's your repair holding up? Thanks for sharing this technique! Cheers!
Well that's a good trick to remember, as usual an excellent video.
Thanks very much, I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks again for watching! 👍
I've used synthetic non woven fabric and epoxy to fix broken plastic parts, it works a treat and really adds strength to the repair.
Im repairing a crack on a drill press body where the pillar inserts and a grub screw holds it. A weak point that has cracked when a lot of force has been applied on the press in the past.
I don't have a welder and had planned to use a pipe strap/clamp but also have JB Weld and may use a section of the pipe clamp with the epoxy instead to create a stronger outcome without the slight stretch a screw tightened clamp has.
Nice repair. Never saw that type repair before. Looks to be very useful where brazing is not an option.
Thanks very much great to hear from you again. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Your are a genius ,Great procedure ,Great job
Hi, nice job. Could you just have filled the holes with plasticine or similar? If so what is the advantage of using the machined plugs you used? Thanks
great work, well prepared and scientific thinking , gave me an idea for cast piece on engine block ive broke off from overtightening ! which is on stage one at mo with epoxy only ..so far so good ....
This was very useful thank you. I've got a break on a large 4 foot cst iron French 18th century crucifix and one of the cruciform arms has broken off… so can't think of a solution to reattach it as there is such a small surface area between the two pieces… obviously cant weld as its cast iron but this method might help thanks.
Did you put any epoxy in the crack before attaching the two pieces or just around it? I have to repair my mailbox where the aluminum pieces broke away from the pole.
Pre heat, sil bronze, slow cool. I dont think I'd glue my bridgeport, but I would attempt tig brazing it. The OEM part is 680bucks, but you can get a knockoff for $200. $200 is a fair price for a new feed nut bracket and ya should be able to get a used one easily. They made a ton of these.
I did consider silicone bronze but didn't have any and I didn't really fancy getting any down the locking screw hole or the backlash adjuster hole when I didn't have the right size taps to re thread them. I also had all the stuff for the Carbon method on hand so it was essentially free. Back in the machine now and seems to be doing alright. Did see the $200 ones when I had a look but can't justify that at the moment to be honest. Also getting one over to the UK from the US at the moment the way the world is may have taken a long time. Hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. 👍
@@Handmadeextreme Your local welding shop should have sil bronze in stock. it's running about 20bucks a pound here in the states for tig filler rod.
Thanks very much, i'm glad you enjoyed it and got something useful out off it. Thanks for watching.
Excellent
Boston, MA
👍
Would this work for a car repair? The block of the engine is Aluminum I need to make a repair where you screw & mount the alternator since it cracked off & that’s part of the engine too. Keeping in mind it’s right next to the cylinders that go into the engine & they get really hot when running the car.
It will be very interesting to see how this repair holds up. I would never consider welding as an alternative. Welding cast iron is fraught with problems. Unless you have access to the necessary sophisticated pre and post weld muffle furnace you will get very hard brittle carbides forming at the edge of the weld area. A far safer alternative is brazing as the iron isn't raised to fusing temperature.
Its been in the machine for a little while now. Tends to only get light use as it's in my home shop but it's holding up fine so far. Couldn't agree more about welding cast iron, it's just a total pain. Thanks for the support.
o yea when i was a kid my neighbor was an old farmer and i helped him weld quite a few cast-iron things and he certainly had no sophisticated anything first we would get a couple soup pots full of sand put them in his kitchen oven heat them as hot as the oven would go then he would heat the parts up with a torch then he'd weld them then we would pack the sand all a round the weld if it was some thing big and a lot of times we would put a old moving blanket over it he said it helped hold the heat in a litle but mostly to keep the wind from cooling the sand off to fast. he said that was to keep it from cracking and becoming brittle. we never had no problems
was wondering myself about brazing cast !
nice i never seen this method before i think the other option to repair this would be brassing but you need a furnace for that and a torch^^
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. I did consider welding or brazing but didn't have the correct size taps to chase the treads or the correct rods for that matter haha. So thought i'd try something a little different. Thanks for watching.
Do you think fiber glass cloth would have similar effect?
I've never seen that before. I had no idea that it was even possible. I understand about fibres in a matrix ie composites. But surely, all you've done is glue some fibre to the metal? I'm sure I'm wrong.
Hi Carl. In essence yes it's just fibres in glue stuck to the part. In reality it's slightly more complex.. but not much haha. Fibre strength, stiffness and orientation are all significant factors. I didn't really fancy welding the part as I didn't have the right size taps to chase the threads so I needed another way to do the repair. Had all the stuff on hand so thought i'd show another way to skin the cat. I was thinking it might be handy for people who don't have welding / brazing kit. Hope you are well.
Cheers
@@Handmadeextreme I am well and thanks for asking. I'm still on a ship off Norway but should be back in the UK early June. Then I've got to work out how to drive from one end of the country to the other and then back to bring my family home, without me or them getting Covid or breaking the lockdown regs.
I guess composites are something I'll never understand. I studied them a bit in my aircraft days and didn't really get it then. I understand about the different lay directions etc for the different stresses on your part. It's a great method of repairing that part that I never would have thought of. Thanks for showing it.
Hola es tan fuerte que pegaria fisura en llanta de aluminio?
Here we are a year later, has it held up?! I hope so because I'm going for it, on a cast iron part, tomorrow.
It has indeed. Good look with your repair.
Try using Belzona 9411 (Release agent for epoxy resin) on aluminum inserts and remove them when the resin is cured.
this looks exactly like something i would concoct and as soon as i put any torque on the part it would shatter into more pieces than i started with.
Can you give us an update on how that repair is holding up?
How about brazing?
Thank you for this! I was trying to figure out how to repair my old treadle sewing machine leg that snapped off, without having to hire someone to weld it. This seems much cheaper lol
We're you able to repair the broken leg I have the same problem was seeing how you repaired it
@@andregunther4200 I was able to repair one of the joins but not the other. I used JB Weld on both: the first one worked because I was able to hold it at the correct angle: it’s holding really well. I think the second one could have worked if I had made a mold/splint to hold it while the weld dried. I might try again later. My neighbor also suggested drilling into both parts and screwing a thin plate of steel on either side as a permanent splint, which I think also would work. For now, I’m just using a piece of 2x4 to prop it up and it still sews beautifully :)
Wouldn’t it have made more sense to glue at least a layer of fiber then add more after adding the resin? Just a thought more control. Good video though, I will use the approach.
I think you need nonstick material (e.g. film) to take off that small piece easily.
Surface prep really needs to get rid of all oil and other lubricants to make the epoxy stick. Then you always use gloves with handling epoxy as that stuff really is not sold next to the multivitamins in the shop :-)
Fun trivia - if you let the alu oxidize a bit, overnight or so - the epoxy will peel off even after setting. Might be a bit of shrinkage tough holding the plugs in place. If you want to glue alu with epoxy, you need to wet sand the alu with epoxy to avoid the oxydation issues.
Cool repair! Please do report back on any issues later as this is a very interesting method compared to welding or brazing cast iron fittings.
Hi Rolf, great to hear from you again.
Absolutely right! Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to composites work. I forgot to mention that in the video, Ooops. Right about the gloves too; Getting hold of them at the moment is a bit of a challenge though.
Interesting reading about the aluminium. I don't suppose you have a background in aeronautical do you? Those are words I have had told to me before when I was working with bits of plane. Have you tried using alacrom1200 as a surface prep. After de-ox and clean. Now that's really nasty stuff.
Hope you are well, and thank you for the continued support.
I can not understand why the factory did not fix this design. Remember making one out of steel billet. The piece is just fine.
It's definitely a bit of a week point in the system. That said if it doesn't get overtightened I expect it would never break. Either way the repair seems to be holding up well despite a few sceptics saying it will never work. Thanks for the support 👍
@@Handmadeextreme Their is always a few naysayers who work with their mouth and not their hands. No worries here Handmade Extreme, it is all good. VF
Personally I don't like the result but kudos for your of the box thinking, but please don't call this 'engineering'. Few tips, when I used to do carbon fibre repairs I used glad wrap at the end over the job and stretch tight plus tape at the ends to seal and it makes the surface all nice and smooth at the end, just have to get the bubbles out before sealing. For odd shapes use condoms as they stretch good. I also think your mix ratio was off, or possibly the shelf life was past as JB weld shouldn't be tacky when it is cured. Also next time consider putting some wax or something on your plugs and leave them in and take out at the end.
Could you use body filler to make the finished repair a little more attractive?
Thanks for the feedback, what sort of things were you doing repairs on? I like the condoms idea, that's neat, i'll be sure to remember that. I have a few composite jobs coming up. Might be handy.
I tend to vac bag if I want to smooth something out or make sure there are no air pockets. For this I really didn't see the need as it's buried down inside the machine and never seen. Form very much follows function for this one.
Thanks for watching. 👍
@@Handmadeextreme kayaks and canoes and associated paddles... So a mix of funny shapes and layups. Not as bad as that shape you have there though. The condoms were used on the 'nose' or 'tail' repairs at the ends. The lube acted as a mould release too hahaha. Thicker plastic than gladwrap is better as it won't wrinkle as easy. vacbags would probably achieve a better result :)
Ah, awesome. One of my friends used to be a laminator for valley canoe and kayaks. He comments here quite regularly. You might have noticed my Jackson Superstar in the back of some of the shots in the videos. Always fancied making my own boat from scratch. Maybe one day... I'll just put it on the too do list haha. 👍
Please tell me the name of the chemical
J b weld liquid metal
Carbon fibres with JB weld :D :D :D
If only there was a basalt or carbon equivalent of 3M's Bondoglass. Bondoglass IMO appears fire retardant because of talc and fiberglass strands.
Hate woking with glass fiber matts, those strands get everywhere and itch for days!
They are horrible aren't they. I'm a big fan of the resin infusion method of laminating. Does away with all the wet resin and constantly racing against the clock to get the job done before it gels...and the mess..oh the mess.. no more of that either. Thanks for watching. 👍
@@Handmadeextreme Hahaha, fiberglassing small parts, gets you dirty and covered in resin in no time!
Infusion laminating is great if you have the tools, way less messy.
Heat the part up in an oven Then use nickel welding rod Cool part off in sand very slowlyThen reshape it accordingly
That's a no from me. I like metal things to be metal and plastic things to be plastic.