Customer bought a running Stihl Chainsaw w/ 130lbs compression. What to look for when buying used.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- If you found this video helpful, please LIKE, SUBSCRIBE and COMMENT!! Today we go over what to look for when buying a used chainsaw. Sometimes looks and even it starting up and running can be deceiving.
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Every year we get in over 2,000 pieces of equipment for repair and service along with getting asked 1,000's of questions. We work on everything from, Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, Honda, Echo, Stihl, Husqvarna, Troy Bilt, Craftsman, Poulan, Red Max, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, etc. The videos I make show some of the most common problems we see come into the shop. Hopefully my videos will save you time, money and frustration in the future!
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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment.
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Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
I took one of those Stihl chainsaws out of my neighbor's trash. Used a brake hone on the cylinder & threw in a new piston & rings...Is it perfect??? No, but that was 4 years ago & I am still using it to cut firewood during the season... So worth the $50 bucks I put into it.
HL Supply is a good place to get a piston & cylinder kit . I purchased a kit for less then $ 30 .Depends on the model .
Hi,
I love fixing trashed junk also,
If you use Muriatic acid on the cyl, it eats the scored aluminum but won’t touch the bore liner. 👌
Another trick that needs verification. The cheap homeowner versions of these motors looks to be identical except the piston, which has rings on the 300hr version vs the 50hr homeowner version with them. So in theory you could buy the cheap motor, and swap the piston for far less than the cost of the commercial unit.
Maybe she can verify. There could be different coatings on the cylinder for instance.
Heh heh, one man's trash is a clever man's treasure
Re doing a cycle is not for everyone but it still worth to even have a mechanic do it. I have had a saw one for two hours after dyi cycle my best repair.
Diagnosis engine was majorly overheated ,,carbon tells me it has lots of hours ,this sort of scarring is caused by A ran way too hot , B someone inserted straight gas in tank ,C running very lean and D overrevving caused by severely dull chain which led to overheating
I just came across your channel and immediately liked what i saw ,,very informative and well explained ,,I clicked LIKE AND Subscribed
i should say i am a 47 yyr old guy with 30+ years experience with small engines ,,i still remember working on lawnmowers with points ignitions
just the look of the plastics and bar tells me it was rode hard and put away wet.
@@kenbrown2808 very true but i learned years ago never judge a book by it's cover cause i have several saws that look just the same and any one of them will start in 3 pulls and run all day ,,I've had my Husqvarna 45 since 1995 and it's on it's 3rd bar , it's been ran over with a truck once ,and just plain looks like junk ,,but i'll match it against any cheap saw from menards any day of the week
@@wildcoyote34 my dad still uses his 024 super. he's also got one from the previous generation, but it's on our saw shop's "fix it when we find a part" rack, because they haven't made parts for it for decades. (the run/stop switch has failed)
@@kenbrown2808 that sucks , i actually like those old saws ,,i have a whole collection of Homelite saws the biggest of them a MONSTER ,, super 1050 , i got it with a 42 inch bar and a 54 inch bar the thing has like 8 horsepower ,,,not a saw you want to swing around much cause it weighs north of 60 pounds with the big bar
@@wildcoyote34 I specifically bought the power head with the best power to weight ratio, and use a 32 inch bar with a semi skip chain, so I can cut stuff on the ground without bending over, but still don't kill it doing full depth cuts.
WRONG! You hit 37K subscribers because YOU are awesome. If you didn't provide relevant and useful information from an honest perspective, we wouldn't be here. THANKS!!!!!
Aww! Thank you so much for the support!!
You beat me to it bulletproof.
@@Chickanic
That scope tool is sweet!
I could have my wife perform my much needed, over due prostate exam!
It's the type of thing I don't want my dr performing, maybe if he bought me dinner first.
@@Chickanic 372 xp oe rpm ma 13500 ?
Stole my thunder too.
I understand that the guy spent 100.00 on the saw and it has a scored cylinder and piston, but I would still keep it and go to eBay or Amazon and purchase a new cylinder and piston combo with a new cylinder gasket. In about two hours and an additional 30.00 to 50.00 dollars he would have a like new saw again. I found a Stihl MS 210 at a GoodWill Store and paid 7.99 for it, got home and purchased some parts from eBay for around 80.00 bucks and it looks and runs just like a new saw. So he should
put a little effort into it and for 200.00 less than a new one he would have a really nice slightly used new saw.
30 to 50 dollars went to 80 dollars and then 200 dollars.
Well, homieshenna. If you would read what I wrote and try to understand it you would realize I said if the person who had her work on the saw had put 30.00 to 50.00 bucks on a new cylinder and piston, and a cylinder and piston combo for that saw is less than 50.00, he would have a great saw for 200.00 less than the cost of buying a new saw. Hope this helps you to understand!
Yeah there are so many parts supplier out there that if you willing to do a little homework and find the numbers you can get the same part online for way less the then dealer. A lot of them have the manufacture part number listed with their part. I needed a carb for a stihl weed eater. Dealer wanted $100 for it. I spend 20 minutes looking up the part and got the carb for $10. Same carb only thing is it didn't say stihl on it. All the makers are buying their parts from other places you just to take the time to find them.
New top end in parts is cheaper then plastic handle and trigger assembly. Inspect the aftermarket heads the can have some pretty mean burs on the ports but nothing some light honing can't fix.
The 390 top end fits. They do awesome with a bit of timing, base gasket delete and muffler mod
First question I ask is "Can I take the muffler off?"
If the seller takes the conversation to a different point, I'll just listen to him politely and then thank him for his time.
That chainsaw was worth 100 bucks tho.
Sure was worth 100
Always remove the muffler, 99% of the time, a piston will scuff on the exhaust side.(I've only seen one scuff on the carb side) It only takes about 5 minutes to remove and replace a muffler.
That's amazing it had that much compression with such a destroyed piston and cylinder. I never would have guessed.
Carbon can be a good sealer.
I bought a WB-028 new in 1980. It was a great running saw, always started on the second or third pull. I kept it clean, never used the wrong mix, had 11 chains and two bars. Sharpened my own chains, cut a lot of wood. Before I retired, I took it completely apart, replaced all the rubber parts and hoses, clutch, etc. Never let anyone borrow it. Sold it in 2016, sometimes I wish I had it back. Don’t abuse or neglect equipment.
I would let someone use my better half before my saws.
I've got an 024 from that era that works just fine, and I asked the local Stihl dealer if I should replace it with something newer. He said, "No! That's a good saw. Keep it." We've now bought other Stihl equipment from him.
@@raylamp4505 Exactly. Nobody borrows my saw.
@Internally Combustible might be able to work something out. Lol.
@@raylamp4505 I keep an old Poulan Pro around in case someone asks to borrow a saw. That should stop them from ever asking to borrow anything again. 😃
Grab it by the starter handle and lift it off the ground. If the cord doesn't unwind you can be more certain compression is reasonable. Always pull the muffler if it's being sold as a runner.
I figured when I saw the title of this video, that the piston and jug was probably scored to pieces before I watched it. My buddy had his newer Husqvarna top half rebuilt twice in a short amount time due to this. He even used their oil and mixed to their spec. This is why a I always add more oil in the mix instead of factory specs. They want to sell saws. My mix for everything is 32:1...not 50:1. My $0.02.
Someone was skimping on the 2 stroke oil. Maybe forgot it all together. Muffler is usually caked with black shar/goo if too much oil is mixed in. This exhaust port looked pretty clean.
with all the cylinder and piston scoring I am surprised it registered such a good compression number
It is because it is a STIHL!!!
If only we all had a wife like this lady!!
I'd much rather have her as a good friend. Wives tend to be problematic and expensive to maintain and are a bitch to get rid of when they stop working correctly. The after-market value really sucks.
Can she cook and sew and make flowers grow? (Now where have I heard that before?)
Well all it needs is..... All ya have to do is.... From the people I have met that want things done practically free. It is nice knowing how to do the work on your own then you can say that!
Paintnamer I've heard that too.
I like to ask,well, if that's all you have to do then why don't you do it?
I like the simple test of supporting the weight of the saw by the recoil, especially if I’ve stumbled across a real bargain and I don’t have tools with me.
I have a McCulloch PRO MAC 610 which I purchased in 1984, still runs great, with very little maintenance, its a great saw. Always worked on it myself, have cut many a cord of wood, to many to count, and its still going, but my wood cutting day are over, 75 years old now and gave it up, love your videos.
Worked on saws for years. That one has been lean likely due to improper fuel mix or cheap oil. It was way lean when she ran it. Put a jug kit on it and it will be like new. Takes about 30 min to swap cylinder/piston assembly. Use a true 50:1 mix with only Stihl oil. 2.6oz/ gal or 5.2oz for 2 gal. Don’t mix more than you can use in a month or so and let the saw warm up before revving or loading. I’ve had my FS76 trimmer for 20+ years. 2 pull start and runs perfect. Happy cutting
Mark T Yeah, but "jug kits" are expensive.
Pro arborist here. "Cheap" oil would not do anything like that to a cylinder. The saw was likely run with straight gas/no oil mix. Mixed gas lasts much longer than a month, especially if the mix contains a stabilizer. No need to warm the saw up before cutting. Stihl oil is a waste of money. I have saws 20 and 30 years old, always run with "cheap' oil, and they still have original ring, cylinder and power.
@@jamese9283 No need to warm the saw up? Ya think redlining a cold engine is a good idea?
James,
You're right. I am a professional landscaper/lawn care operation. Used to do tree work. If we waited to warm up equipment before we used it, we'd never get anything done...
@@POOKIE5592 You can treat your chainsaw like the space shuttle if you have time to waste, but those of us who use saws at work don't do unnecessary procedures. A chainsaw is a simple engine with only a few moving parts. Automobiles have complex engines with dozens of oil channels that need to be warmed and filled before stressing the engine. Chainsaws can be put right to work immediately after starting, as soon as the engine is revving smoothly. The only indications in any manual are to not redline for more than a few seconds, and to warm the saw up briefly if the air temperature is far below freezing, which is only to get consistent burn inside the cylinder. I regularly redline my saws after a cold start to see if they are running smoothly, and then dive right into the wood. They have lasted 20+ years.
I'm in the tree business...when new ppl get in the biz, one of the first questions they ask is if I use stihl/husky/red max 2 stroke mix or if I just save a bunch of money and use was-mart tech-whatever 2 stroke bc the stihl dealer just wants to make a bunch of money selling 2 stroke mix. 'Many a saw has been slowly burnt up by using cheap 2 stroke oil', I tells 'em. 'Don't do it!'
Oh don't you worry. When I go to buy something I take scopes, gauges, scan tools, tools in general, locked and loaded 9mm, loaded .44, AR, AK, 12 gauge with 00 buck, combat knife, machete, battle axe, pick handle with spikes in the end, and my "sunny disposition". The kilt and my old desert boots help with the projected image too. I never seem to get a bad deal, but it always seems the police are around.
LOL!!
Lol! Nice to see a person with a similar sense of humor! Even if it is a 6th sense kinda sense....
Good candidate for an aftermarket cylinder head and rebuild kit.
I'm not the biggest fan of the 290, but now he's got the perfect candidate to learn on! Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose with cheap equipment.
i lost roughly 600 bucs my stihl died onits second tree
Very well done. I just found your channel, you showed the real deal right here. Ya gotta look at the cylinder, either use the scope, or pull the muffler. You have done very well here, great video, simple, easy for anyone to follow, and great editing. Never loan your chainsaw, they come back broke, or not at all.
Thank you.
Stihl is the best chain saw ever.. Mine is 27 years old and still starts on first pull.
After racing 2 stroke motorcycles for many years, I know that look well.
Especially when I picked up my 4 strokes fuel can instead of my 2 strokes.
My bike was flying for a lap and a half.
😢
I once grabbed the wrong fuel can and made several cuts before realizing I had just run my BRAND NEW saw on diesel! I called my saw shop and told them what I had done only to learn there was no harm but good thing it was not gas. The saw ran sluggish and wouldn't have started had it not been all warmed up. (BTW - I only made a few cuts before realizing my error.)
Here is a golden rule for you.....
If you buy a used saw always consider major rebuild value vs replacement value.
We run 30 to 40 saws continuously with our crews.....if the cost of repair is more than 50% of a new replacement, the saw is written off and used as a parts saw.
Apply that to your customer. $100 initial cost....add price of rebuild (always price both OEM and aftermarket for best value) is it under or over 50% of new? If under, he didn't get screwed, if over, he now has a parts saw for $100 he can either use for parts or part out and recover investment.......... it's all a matter of perspective. When you get a lemon, what do you make?
Oh man, so so many people out there selling junk and ripping people off. I learned a long time ago to not buy used saws. Of course I've still made a bad purchase or two but not on used saws lol. It's sad, amazing and also kinda funny, I see vehicles on Marketplace all the time...."great truck, all it needs is an engine" "perfect condition..except it needs brakes, tires, water pump, trans is slipping a little" 😆 As the old saying goes and is more relevant now than ever..."Buyer Beware!" Great video as usual!!!
She is good, there are somethings you can do, if you are are buying any 2 cycle products use this easy check to know if it is seized, grab pull cord let unit go with other hand if the unit slowly or not at all drops it is not seized, the one thing she did wrong never start anything cold and go full throttle rightaway you can cold seize the engine, i owned a dealer ship for 38 years
I love your no nonsense troubleshooting videos. Very clear and concise information. Much appreciated.
Excellent video!!! You know, Dony-boy also preaches that gospal, take that muffler off, and take a look. If the seller won't let you do that, don't buy it. Excellent PSA, it was very much needed! Your amazing Chickanic, we appreciate you!
I would have bought it for $100,and just thrown in a new cylinder and piston :) Great advice to anyone buying a used saw!
That's what I was thinking. What would a cylinder and piston cost installed, off the top of your head?
A good aftermarket kit will cost more than the $100 you paid for the saw. Plus labor for someone else to install it makes it not worth it. Now if you want want to do your own labor and use a super cheap china special kit at $100 you still over paid for the saw. You can buy a new complete ready to go china super deal saw for $100.
@@killer2600 ,I was talking about a scenerio where I did it myself.For an MS 290,I can get a good Nikasil lined cylinder,piston kit for $60 shipped.I've done a few .For a customer getting the work done,and with OEM parts,not such a good deal.
@@ryanbruner8928 To you and Killer, what would a new Stihl comparable to this cost? 6, maybe 7 hundred?
@@John-gj1jr 44 bucks with free shipping
I need my own sweet Chickanic, one who can fix and start a big stihl and to share thy fruits of thy labors. Just a dream isn't it !
Wow- this video popped up on my feed today, 6-18-22, and I already knew she was past 100k subs, but to go from 37k less than 7 months back-WOW! You are doing something incredibly right! Keep it coming!
This comment is not really specifically for Chickanic but more so just for those interested in saws, mechanics and such
Those (wb)ms290s/029 can get power upgrade cheaply if someone is willing to go non oem and put some work 1-2 hours (if you are someone with a little mechanical knowledge and motivation). the ms390/ engine fits those (both are "clam-shell"/homeowner style engines, and the bodies of the saws are identical. The ms 290 is a 56cc that can get bumped up to a 64cc saw with a non-noticeable difference in weight. 3.8hp to 4.3hp gain... I did this on mine and just kept the old engine as back up, ( have manual impact driver or impact drill for the engine mount bolts and all bolts on this saw are t27 from what I can recall)
donyboy73 has a video of almost the same thing. Saw ran well till it warmed up. Conditions were similar, great compression. But in addition to the scoring, that piston had a big hole worn in it about half way down the side! Crazy that it even ran.
Thanks! I just had an endoscopy at my local hospital to check a duodenal ulcer, it cost me almost $1000! I think I could swallow one of those cameras and do it myself in future - a bit of throat spray to take the edge off, and save me a fortune! Plus I have a camera to poke around in cylinders to boot! Thanks again.
Extremely helpful! I have an old wood chipper that was running very poorly after sitting idle for several years. Took it to a small engine shop and they said no compression, not worth trying to fix. Then a very knowledgeable friend said the rings might just be stuck.
I'm going to get an endoscope, take a look and see what's really going on.
Great advice.
Pour a bunch of oil in there and let it sit for a while. SLOWLY turn the motor over once in a while and see if it comes unstuck.
You and Ron are the reason why you 37K followers. Good and honest people, 37000 people can’t be wrong
Thanks Al!
Smart lady. Thanks for not having a bunch of crappy music in the background while you were talking.
First, I'm not a mechanic. I googled chainsaw compression and as it happened Stihl U.S.A. was the first entry. Stihl's page states the minimum compression should be 110 psi, so 130 psi doesn't sound too far off... (I really have no idea.)
But shouldn't a badly scored cylinder wall contribute more to low compression?
Hey; what do I know? Hand me a crescent wrench and I'll use it to crack walnuts... probably a better idea for me than to actually try to work on something with it.
Like your channel though.
Reply by @Chickanic
Once it warms up it will abruptly go from 130 lbs to 75.. This one was just hanging on by a thread.
Brand new saws come 120-140 lbs of compression. If it is under 100 lbs it is too worn out to work on. Thanks for watching!
I think it likely that the compression dropped significantly after the sawed had time to warm up. The cylinder will heat up and increase slightly in size at it does. The rings in the piston are likely seized on the exhaust side and thus can't make the seal to get the needed compression at operating temperature. This, of course, in addition to the scoring that will also cause compression loss.
We logged for decades. We ran Pioneer forever until they went out of business. We bought a couple Stihl but they didn't last very long. We ended up using Husqvarna and Johnsonred.
Had a MS290 that I bought new, ran it for 5-6 years, cut 7-8 cords of oak every year till I let someone borrow it, and they burned it up, wouldn't even start when I got it back! Bought a new jug and piston, and a little induction tachometer, had the saw running in about an hour, used the tach to set up the carb just right. that was 5 years ago and it's been cutting 7-8 cords every year since, I think I fixed it for about $80 bucks. I'd buy a running 290 any day for a $100 bucks!
I saw you have a hone on your wish list and thought I'd share with you a tip, that will help you out in a pinch. Take a phillips screwdriver and put the tip in a drill. Then wrap a rag around the handle, keeping it as wrinkle free as you can. The take a sheet of emery paper or something similar, fold it in half length wise. Wrap it as wrinkle free as you can around the rag. You want it all to be fairly snug when you push it into the cylinder. You can choose what ever grit paper you need for the situation, which is nice. The rest I think you can figure out. I've done it many times on friends mowers and other small engines, when I would check out their machine and find they'd ran it with little or no oil and didn't have the money for a new one. It gets gets them by for a while.
I bought a Stihl 056 Super Electronic many years ago. It was a super saw with no problem until it would run for only 10 minutes and stop. In this case it was the electronic coil. Guess what, can no longer get a coil for that saw. I found that others that bought that same model have the same problem. It cost too much to covert the saw to a point/condenser system that might just as well buy a new saw. I have an 041 Farm Boss I bought 39 years ago and it is still running strong. I have recently bought some OME part for the saw like chain sprocket, clutch, bar and chain.
Thanks to all the manufacturers not creating lifelong machines, so that we have the pleasure to watch your exciting channel 👍👍
I am impressed just watching you pull the cord. I get guys all the time that can't get this or that started because they can't pull the cord correctly. Side note I am adding the scope to my tool box. 🙂
yeah...l sold a mculloch saw to a fat guy with asthma....he could barely pull it over....brought it back twice coz his fat ass couldnt start it.....l started it in front of him.l gave him his money back, and sold it to someone who knows what the hell they doin....smh
@@woodlanegardenequipmentrep9149 you said exactly what I was being too polite to say! LOL
If it was that cheap 100.00 hundred dollars, the seller knew what was wrong, don’t know how some people can sleep at night, buyer should have looked further into like you said Chickanic
U should make a video on what to do when purchasing used equipment. All the steps u would take to see if it’s worth buying.
Cutest chik in small engine repair
For Stihl and other non box store 2 stroke stuff they hold there value so well that it's worth just buying new. I bought the same ms290 new and it was under $400. I cut firewood for primary heat and it looks alot better than that saw by far.
and a year later you have 202,000 subscribers . great growth.
Well done Chickfantastic
just had the same exact thing happen to my Stihl... running old gas will get the cylinder way too hot and it will score like nobody's business... take- home point: don't run old gas, don't run regular (higher octane burns cooler) and keep after the air filter. thanks for the vid! (this will cost me about three hundred dollars to fix, but a new saw is double that or more, so i chalk it up to expensive education.)
Yeah just bought a ms200t off ebay with supposedly good compression. Bad move. Totally scored and melted piston. Been run with no oil dealer said. No remorse from seller or ebay. Up for new everything now. Totally burnt. Never again. Where do you get hd endoscope from.
Love your videos.
Jono
Defo running lean. New pot and piston, then use proper mixture. Love your channel. 👍🇬🇧
Wow, that sucks!!!! Sometimes another man's trash is.....another man's trash! Not sure what the cost would be to replace the piston and head, but bet it's way more than the saw's worth. Thanks for sharing with us, and God bless. Rev. D.
You can get a complete rebuild kit on eBay for about $50.00(piston,new cylinder,etc…)much cheaper than a new Stihl chain saw, & worth a whole lot more
It works as well as my Ryobi battery powered chainsaw
I have learned so much about small motors and equipment to diagnose the motor.
Love Your Videos.
Great Job!!!!!!!
The question is what caused this damage? My thinking is that someone did mix the gas and oil correctly. I've had seven Stihls over the years. I bought my first one, a 030 in 1969. I have three now. I've found if you take care of them, they keep running.
speaking of love. This is the stuff I love since buying over fifty used chainsaws and finding so many conditions of wont start wont idle and wont pull chain through butter . Let alone timber.*- You Rock Chickanic
I'm sure if you did a leak down test, the thing would have +30% leakage. Leakage percentage is more important than the raw compression value.
Not something someone can do shopping around used units but worth saying.
Definitely glad the small inspection cameras was recommended, probably the best pre-purchase inspection tool for anything used with an engine as long as the person using it is well trained on what to look for.
I always pull the muffler to inspect the piston for scoring. Probably ran straight gas without oil mixed.
You can get a after market kit ( piston and cylinder) and turn it into a MS 390.
Exactly
Thanks for sharung your knowledge with us
The last used piece of ICE lawn and garden equipment was a 15 year old tiller with a 5 horse Briggs engine. Changed the coil to pointless and it has started on the first or second pull ever since. BTW, I bought it in 1994.
looking back at old videos. This saw has two potential uses. Anchor or recipient of a cheap cylinder kit. You can get aftermarket for around $60 but they are hit and miss. As evidenced by the saw going to a shop says this is not a proficient DIY. A shop would not take the risk of installing such parts and I would not ask them.
I have seen guys sand the piston and hone the cylinnder and it was fine. Could put a new ring on it after hone and sanding the piston. If it has 130 pounds of compression this would totally work.
It's a bit hard to get screwed when you're buying from a private seller. Everyone knows that there's no guarantees or warranties, so we should all know that if you pay your money you take your chances.
I'm about to buy an old Stihl 025 for $40.00 AUD and I'm well aware that I could get it home and find it's stuffed; unfortunately that's the risk I'm taking.
Very helpful, I'll keep this in mind when I by equipment..
I think that it's quite likely that the crankseals are shot or some other air leak somewhere. That has caused it to run lean and scored the piston/cylinder (heat etc). I've just rebuilt my MS310, very similar to MS290 just a bit bigger, about 20 years old with this very issue. So based on time it could also help with an idea of the seals condition. Luckily I got mine early and no damage was done. It would run OK however after it warmed up it just would not hold idle well. I was always trying to fiddle with the Carby adjustments but it would just be erratic irregardless of what I did. This is for a saw that has incredibly held tune near on rock solid it's whole life. I know it's only a mid range saw but this thing eats through some very large Australian Ironbark trees with ease. It's all about a reliable saw and a properly sharpened chain. I hope to get another 20 years out of my Stihl if I live long enough!
I cant believe it started being that scored
You can hear that saw is tuned too lean on high and isn't four-stroking under no load, that's probably why it burned up on the hot side.
You are so good at what you do!!!
I would love to see a piston & ring replacement. Haven't seen any piston or cylinder jobs since the early 70's on big block V8's and small block Chevy
Straight gassed, or ran a tick lean and overheated, there is a crazy thing about so of the newer saws that you can't adjust the mixture screws, and by adding to much oil that seems like it would be good insurance, it actually makes the gas into a thicker volume and doesn't flow as well through the carburator and makes a lean situation that burns down some of the best saws, crazy, stay strong guys
Thanks for the info about the crosshatching, vertical wear lines, etc., in the cylinder. New to me, and I'm sure others.
the compression surprised me. this is my profession and before I work on any saw I pull the muffler. even a decent running one, if they have scoring, I talk to the customer to see how they want me to proceed
I watch and find new tools I “need”. Lol. Thanks, I learned something today. Super cool!
Your wife is gonna run you off with a stick Iffin’ you keep buying tools!
@@oldmanfred8676 I fund tools with lawnmower flip dollars. Otherwise, I would get in trouble.
@@haneyoakie14,
You never heard of OUR MONEY is MY MONEY, from your sweetie pie? Of course her money is her money!
@@oldmanfred8676 yep. Ain’t Love Grand?
@@haneyoakie14,
Laughing😊. you know it Brother!
I have seen 1 other issue, on a saw I owned, I bought used as a teenager, I worked it hard a few years, then it developed a problem, it still worked great if took it easy, but hard use, it might cut off, but if didnt, when you set it down, the gas was boiling hard, smoke was coming out gas cap vent, yes, gas vapor from boiling gas.
cylinder looked good, but I traded it in on a brand new reproduction Blue model of the Homelite Super XL, but I didnt use it much, still have that 1, but bought a couple others, that I worked hard, & finally stopped selling firewood. but yeah worn out rings.
for side note, I always did, & still buy engine oil by the gallon, & mix it myself in a ratio rite cup, 30+ years doing it this way, & besides a few issues on modern 2 strokes, like clogging muffler screens. or quicker carb adjusting issues, no other problems. weed eaters. leaf blowers, lawn mowers, boat motors, chain saws, always mixed it myself
$100 is still not overpriced, even low compression should not cause stalling after a few minutes, ebay barrel and piston and its a good second saw
Did that to A chain saw many years ago, garbed the wrong fuel tin going out the door, it was a 4 stroke for the lawn mower.
…I restore old motorcycles…first thing I do is check the cylinders….just because an engine is seized doesn’t necessarily mean “bad”…I’m working on an ‘85 Honda now….seized engine, when I got it turning I started it…no problem….took the top end apart…the cylinders looked new…so, for $1,000, a few parts/gaskets and some sweat equity I got a nice ride…always check the cylinders/pistons before purchase….good video!
Wow - That thing had to be run without oil. Never see one grooved that bad . Surprised it ran that well and had that much compression !
What happens when you put too big of bar on it.
Good saw for the shelf, salvage parts from one that has "had an accident" plenty do. Worst saw I've ever had was a remington then an echo.
I had a 028 best saw I ever had ,should have never let it go.
Everyone should know that if the cylinder walls are scored then the piston and rings will also be . So what do you think the crankshaft bearings look like ? In the same shape ?
I think your tutorial,s are great keep up the fantastic videos.
Even the most basic Stihl chainsaw is £370 in the UK, they rarely go for less than half of that on eBay, so to get one for $100, you know it's shot before you start.
Tear it down, hoan the cylinder, replace rings, whatcha think?
Of course labor would kick it well over 200$. But a couple rings and hoan would make it a good DIY project.
Not likely, parts of the piston were embedded in the cylinder wall
37000 Congratulations.
That is awesome.
Very helpful for more than one reason. COOL!
It's rebuildable. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me. It is appreciated.
More women like you needed to make America great again!
I’m learning a lot from your videos on small engines! Keep up the good work! 👍🏼
Thank you!
@@Chickanic hey, what caused these damages on the cylinder?
I bought one of those scopes when I seen you use it in the first video . That little scope is off the charts cool . It has come in handy a lot !!
Chickanic it’s better off to brand new chainsaw don’t buy used chainsaw if customers got screwed
Congrats on hitting 37K 👍
Cold seizure - whoever owned that saw did not let it warm up before running it at load/wide open.
Best tool you can have when buying small engines is a Torx bit set and ALWAYS pull the muffler unless you are willing to lose whatever the cost of what you are buying. I would never even bother with a compression tester on a 2 stroke, oil seals the rings and walla compression looks good. Those endoscopes are handy though aswell I bought one to check my air ducts (excuse I gave my wife haha) awhile back and I opted for one that has its own screen so I wouldn't have to use my phone and it's proven useful. Used it to look inside a crf crankcase before I did the tear down so I could get a head start ordering the gears I needed.
walla compression?
So, best bet is to pull the muffler and have a look. Got it!
When customers came up with an example like this, I would open the carburettor bolts to adjust it and I said, use it to the end, then buy spare parts ... What else could they do anyway.