Turn the priming tool around. So your fingers pull the lever. You tilt it away from yourself, then primers fall forward into the gate. That priming tool is very good. Even on my progressive press i still use that to prime off press before.
I haven't reloaded anything since shotgun shells back when I was a kid but wanting to get back into it. You guys are a wealth of knowledge for beginners to experts, awesome stuff!
I have that powder measure and because no one else seems to want to review it, I'll just say it.... DO NOT BUY IT! Even if you get Frankfords starter kit throw their powder measure in the trash and get something else because it has a known fault that Frankford refuses to address and that is that it won't throw stick or extruded powder. I started out running Ramshot Hunter through it and it did well, it was smooth, consistent and easy to adjust. Then I tried putting Vihtavuori N165 through it and every throw would bridge and I'd have to take it apart and unjam it. I then went on Midway USA's website on a whim to look at reviews and everyone else who bought one had the same problem and apparently its a well known fault with it that Frankford knows about but refuses to fix.
Personally, I like to confirm my COL the first 3 or 5 rounds to confirm, then every 10th round. Just incase something could or have changed. Or you can call it OCD 😂
Honestly i think adjusting neck tension is a waste of time. Brass has an "elasticity band" that changes depending on its hardness and quality of the brass. The harder it is the more it resists sizing or expanding but in the end the elasticity and/or the interrupted fitment+the elasticity of the brass being used to the bullet being pressed in is your window of opportunity to figure out what works. So consistent annealing is a more worth while venture, than playing around with a constant changing variable.
@StuninRub yes there are apparent results and that changing neck tension is the result of work hardening brass. I've played with varying neck tension and found no difference on paper. What I did find is that if the neck I.d. is smaller than bullet diameter+the brass springback all that happens to that "extra tension" is that it gets expanded out by seating the bullet. You don't have to take my word for it. Go get a case size the neck as usual, measure the i.d. with a spherical small hole gauge and micrometer, then expand the case over a KNOWN diameter mandrel then measure the i.d. again. Take note of how much the difference is between the i.d. and the mandrel o.d. afterward and hold that number in your head or write it down. Seat a bullet then pull the bullet and measure the i.d. after pulling. You'll probably find that that .002" neck tension somehow isn't the number that you get but is closer to the springback number you wrote down earlier. But that springback will change after every firing so far as consistency in neck tension goes, annealing is more beneficial than buying 20 bushings to chase your ever changing tension because of work hardening brass.
@kassilewis5511 You realize annealing is part of neck tension right? Just like how interference fit is also part of neck tension. After annealing, the work hardening difference from a .001 interference fit and .003 interference fit is minimal, but the impact on paper is great. This is very well documented online and tested and confirmed by many individuals independently.
Yes I understand that annealing plays a major part in neck tension. THAT is what I am trying to tell you. That if your brass has a consistent, from one loading to the next, .001" springback it doesn't matter how small you squeeze that neck down, the bullet will act as an expander when seated and the "neck tension" is the brass elasticity gripping the bullet that same .001". I happen to be someone who has tested this over and over again and documented my findings. If you want to fiddle with neck tension .001-.0010 or whatever trips your trigger and skip annealing that is your choice and time to waste. I've shot hundreds of groups with batches of varying sizing practices mixed up and the groups and poi remained the same. The only time I saw that the neck tension between .001-.005 difference begin to show shifting and opening groups was on unannealed brass. But have you conducted the expirement I told you to do with measing before, after, before after? Try it, I'd like to know what you find.
Turn the priming tool around. So your fingers pull the lever.
You tilt it away from yourself, then primers fall forward into the gate.
That priming tool is very good.
Even on my progressive press i still use that to prime off press before.
thank you for taking the time to go step by step on reloading and suggestions
I haven't reloaded anything since shotgun shells back when I was a kid but wanting to get back into it. You guys are a wealth of knowledge for beginners to experts, awesome stuff!
Thank you Eric!
I have that powder measure and because no one else seems to want to review it, I'll just say it.... DO NOT BUY IT! Even if you get Frankfords starter kit throw their powder measure in the trash and get something else because it has a known fault that Frankford refuses to address and that is that it won't throw stick or extruded powder. I started out running Ramshot Hunter through it and it did well, it was smooth, consistent and easy to adjust. Then I tried putting Vihtavuori N165 through it and every throw would bridge and I'd have to take it apart and unjam it. I then went on Midway USA's website on a whim to look at reviews and everyone else who bought one had the same problem and apparently its a well known fault with it that Frankford knows about but refuses to fix.
Isn't cbto more consistent to measure then coal?
Absolutely!
Use your thumb on the primer lever, you get a better feel of what is happening when priming.
Thanks, Kyle 👍
Good program Kyle! And lots of good information for a starting loader.
Kyle I think you would get better consistent ammo if you used a base to ogive measurement
I agree! 🙂 Typically that’s something that I would do but I completely overlooked it this time -Kyle
Great video! You did awesome🙌🏽
I appreciate it! I’m glad you enjoyed and thanks for watching! 🙂 -Kyle
I desperately want to start reloading for my 6.5PRC but can't afford the equipment. It' so expensive to get started.
Personally, I like to confirm my COL the first 3 or 5 rounds to confirm, then every 10th round. Just incase something could or have changed. Or you can call it OCD 😂
Great video, umm. Thats my bad that you are running low. 😂😂.
Honestly i think adjusting neck tension is a waste of time. Brass has an "elasticity band" that changes depending on its hardness and quality of the brass. The harder it is the more it resists sizing or expanding but in the end the elasticity and/or the interrupted fitment+the elasticity of the brass being used to the bullet being pressed in is your window of opportunity to figure out what works. So consistent annealing is a more worth while venture, than playing around with a constant changing variable.
Neck tension is not a waste of time. There are very apparent results to changes in neck tension.
@StuninRub yes there are apparent results and that changing neck tension is the result of work hardening brass. I've played with varying neck tension and found no difference on paper. What I did find is that if the neck I.d. is smaller than bullet diameter+the brass springback all that happens to that "extra tension" is that it gets expanded out by seating the bullet. You don't have to take my word for it.
Go get a case size the neck as usual, measure the i.d. with a spherical small hole gauge and micrometer, then expand the case over a KNOWN diameter mandrel then measure the i.d. again. Take note of how much the difference is between the i.d. and the mandrel o.d. afterward and hold that number in your head or write it down. Seat a bullet then pull the bullet and measure the i.d. after pulling. You'll probably find that that .002" neck tension somehow isn't the number that you get but is closer to the springback number you wrote down earlier. But that springback will change after every firing so far as consistency in neck tension goes, annealing is more beneficial than buying 20 bushings to chase your ever changing tension because of work hardening brass.
@kassilewis5511 You realize annealing is part of neck tension right? Just like how interference fit is also part of neck tension. After annealing, the work hardening difference from a .001 interference fit and .003 interference fit is minimal, but the impact on paper is great. This is very well documented online and tested and confirmed by many individuals independently.
Yes I understand that annealing plays a major part in neck tension. THAT is what I am trying to tell you. That if your brass has a consistent, from one loading to the next, .001" springback it doesn't matter how small you squeeze that neck down, the bullet will act as an expander when seated and the "neck tension" is the brass elasticity gripping the bullet that same .001". I happen to be someone who has tested this over and over again and documented my findings. If you want to fiddle with neck tension .001-.0010 or whatever trips your trigger and skip annealing that is your choice and time to waste. I've shot hundreds of groups with batches of varying sizing practices mixed up and the groups and poi remained the same. The only time I saw that the neck tension between .001-.005 difference begin to show shifting and opening groups was on unannealed brass.
But have you conducted the expirement I told you to do with measing before, after, before after? Try it, I'd like to know what you find.