Hello, my friend. Subbed to your channel today. I have been planning an outdoor system for my 1860s farmhouse at 4500 sq ft. Learning all I can before I ditch the indoor forced hot air wood furnace. Way to much work for me to operate this system. I want my burner next to my wood pile. I also prefer hydronic over the forced hot air I have, and hate. I have plans to build my own gasifier boiler. I have been studying this stuff, on and off, for a few years in preparation. interestingly enough, I caught your 320 amp service system. Another venture in my plans. Back order or not, I am no where near ready for this at all. Ironically, I caught a new 320 panel on CL last winter with accessories last winter. It was selling for 400 and being winter time, I did not have the funds available. I'll be watching ....
Hi Bluebully Coal - Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. I'm not sure how you will do the automatic demand, idle, and levels of air though. The Central boilers have a computer that tells the system when to run the fans, when to idle and when to vent. it even knows when it's too hot and closes everything down until the temps come down to normal range. They have a website displaying the temp and status of the system along with a history mapping you can see how it is performing. I would say figure out your materials list, cost of the build (welding, electricity, parts, and especially what your time is worth), then look at the prices of the Central Boilers. It may be close enough where you can just purchase one... Not sure. Thanks for watching and hope you Subscribed. I'll be posting more on the heating system as I learn and improve.
@@back30 I get the feeling you are in NY? I'm a bit over an hour west of Albany. I'm pretty confident I can build a gasifier cheaper. Been on the lookout for some surplus materials to keep my build cheaper. Yes, I'm subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to more content. Especially the heating aspects.
As a plumber/ heating guy, if ur trying to do gravity with the wood boiler I highly discourage gravity, ur return water will be too cool and will rot out ur boiler,I assume the tank-coil to plate loop is closed? U should have and expansion vessel, the expansion of pex pipe might be enough though with that little water, if I we u I’d just go put the plate on top of the tank pre heating the water before it comes in the tank, if just look up alternative heating (Jeff something) on TH-cam he is more of an wood boiler/ heat g system guy. Good luck
Hey, thank you for reaching out. The outdoor boiler has a Taco Valve to circulate the boiler water into the basement through the heat plate exchanger. My well wasn't in the house yet so the closed loop has not been maintained. I just bought the autofill with backflow prevention and expansion tank for the closed loop side.
With the indirect you should not need the heat exchanger. Would be 1 or the other. The indirect should give you a better heat exchange than the plate exchanger. You absolutely need pressure on the house heating side, with an expansion tank at 12 psi not 30.
I agree. What I found after adding the plate exchanger was the burn time on my wood boiler extended. Since the boiler loop is shorter now, the heat loss is less and the system idles longer. I'm going to run it this way for awhile to verify but it definitely seems more efficient. I can always remove it. Now that my well is in, I just picked up the auto feed for the water with a back pressure valve that is set for 12psi. I swapped out the 150psi blow off to a 30psi on the tank. I forget the name but I also grabbed an air scrubber (I think that what it's called.. I'm not home at the moment) to put in line on the return side. I see the diagram showing it's right after the fill/tank but I think it would scrub the system better just before the tank to catch the zone returns along with the auto fill. Any thoughts? Lastly I bought a 14 gallon 100psi expansion tank. I ran the Calculator on supplyhouse.com for sizing and it came up with this one (SV30 is the model). Thanks for your help and comments! I see many people learning and improving so hopefully this helps other as it's helping us!
@@back30 For the house side your air separator should have a tapping on the bottom. Place the feeder and expansion tank both in this tapping. Then right after that place the pump. This would be on the supply. Your expansion tank most likley will have a larger tapping i dont beleive this will matter. The best air separator is Spirovent in my experience.
@tuppersdad yes! Spirovent is the one I picked up. For the pump, I have my taco pumps on the supply side. Comes out of the indirect, then each pump branches off for each radiant floor zone. I figure the pumps will run better being between the output upper part of the tank and the floor radiant loops. The returns are up high. It's just the way the layout had to go. Think I need to increase the size of pipe where the pumps branch off to. Tank output is 1". Pex line is 1" and each pump flange is 1".
You're not going to want to have your lines coming up and out of the plate exchanger. By not mounting it on a wall, it's not going to transfer heat as well.
@BACK30 you're going to want to stand it up on the short side. Mine has the woodboiler coming in the bottom left and going back to the woodboiler on top left. My oil boiler return is in top right and out to the oil boiler bottom right
Way too complicated. But I enjoyed your video and I did learn a thing or two. Good job
Hello, my friend. Subbed to your channel today. I have been planning an outdoor system for my 1860s farmhouse at 4500 sq ft. Learning all I can before I ditch the indoor forced hot air wood furnace. Way to much work for me to operate this system. I want my burner next to my wood pile. I also prefer hydronic over the forced hot air I have, and hate. I have plans to build my own gasifier boiler. I have been studying this stuff, on and off, for a few years in preparation.
interestingly enough, I caught your 320 amp service system. Another venture in my plans. Back order or not, I am no where near ready for this at all. Ironically, I caught a new 320 panel on CL last winter with accessories last winter. It was selling for 400 and being winter time, I did not have the funds available.
I'll be watching ....
Hi Bluebully Coal - Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. I'm not sure how you will do the automatic demand, idle, and levels of air though. The Central boilers have a computer that tells the system when to run the fans, when to idle and when to vent. it even knows when it's too hot and closes everything down until the temps come down to normal range. They have a website displaying the temp and status of the system along with a history mapping you can see how it is performing. I would say figure out your materials list, cost of the build (welding, electricity, parts, and especially what your time is worth), then look at the prices of the Central Boilers. It may be close enough where you can just purchase one... Not sure. Thanks for watching and hope you Subscribed. I'll be posting more on the heating system as I learn and improve.
@@back30 I get the feeling you are in NY?
I'm a bit over an hour west of Albany.
I'm pretty confident I can build a gasifier cheaper. Been on the lookout for some surplus materials to keep my build cheaper.
Yes, I'm subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to more content. Especially the heating aspects.
We are in Lebanon, CT near the casinos. Our town is mostly made up of farming and agriculture. Lots of woods and farms.
As a plumber/ heating guy, if ur trying to do gravity with the wood boiler I highly discourage gravity, ur return water will be too cool and will rot out ur boiler,I assume the tank-coil to plate loop is closed? U should have and expansion vessel, the expansion of pex pipe might be enough though with that little water, if I we u I’d just go put the plate on top of the tank pre heating the water before it comes in the tank, if just look up alternative heating (Jeff something) on TH-cam he is more of an wood boiler/ heat g system guy. Good luck
Hey, thank you for reaching out. The outdoor boiler has a Taco Valve to circulate the boiler water into the basement through the heat plate exchanger. My well wasn't in the house yet so the closed loop has not been maintained. I just bought the autofill with backflow prevention and expansion tank for the closed loop side.
With the indirect you should not need the heat exchanger. Would be 1 or the other. The indirect should give you a better heat exchange than the plate exchanger. You absolutely need pressure on the house heating side, with an expansion tank at 12 psi not 30.
I agree. What I found after adding the plate exchanger was the burn time on my wood boiler extended. Since the boiler loop is shorter now, the heat loss is less and the system idles longer. I'm going to run it this way for awhile to verify but it definitely seems more efficient. I can always remove it. Now that my well is in, I just picked up the auto feed for the water with a back pressure valve that is set for 12psi. I swapped out the 150psi blow off to a 30psi on the tank. I forget the name but I also grabbed an air scrubber (I think that what it's called.. I'm not home at the moment) to put in line on the return side. I see the diagram showing it's right after the fill/tank but I think it would scrub the system better just before the tank to catch the zone returns along with the auto fill. Any thoughts?
Lastly I bought a 14 gallon 100psi expansion tank. I ran the Calculator on supplyhouse.com for sizing and it came up with this one (SV30 is the model).
Thanks for your help and comments! I see many people learning and improving so hopefully this helps other as it's helping us!
@@back30 For the house side your air separator should have a tapping on the bottom. Place the feeder and expansion tank both in this tapping. Then right after that place the pump. This would be on the supply. Your expansion tank most likley will have a larger tapping i dont beleive this will matter. The best air separator is Spirovent in my experience.
@tuppersdad yes! Spirovent is the one I picked up. For the pump, I have my taco pumps on the supply side. Comes out of the indirect, then each pump branches off for each radiant floor zone. I figure the pumps will run better being between the output upper part of the tank and the floor radiant loops. The returns are up high. It's just the way the layout had to go. Think I need to increase the size of pipe where the pumps branch off to. Tank output is 1". Pex line is 1" and each pump flange is 1".
You're not going to want to have your lines coming up and out of the plate exchanger. By not mounting it on a wall, it's not going to transfer heat as well.
So do you suggest laying it on the long side? Appreciate your help!
@BACK30 you're going to want to stand it up on the short side. Mine has the woodboiler coming in the bottom left and going back to the woodboiler on top left. My oil boiler return is in top right and out to the oil boiler bottom right
I can share a picture of it hanging on the basement wall if that helps just need your email