This a great video, best I've seen. Which is why I am inclined to the make the effort to add to the content creator's knowledge. Specifically, about why 0w-30 should not be used in a 5w-30 engine. Yes, the oil will reach the parts faster, but the reason the manufactuer has specified 5w as the minimum for winter spec is because while 0w reaches the parts faster, it will do so at less pressure. In another video, you explained that sufficient film pressure is required to fully suspend some parts in a film of oil. If 0w is used, yes the oil will arrive quickly but will be squeezed out, and will tend to spray and splatter making the quicker lubrication pointless. It is better for the oil to take very slightly longer to arrive at 5w than to have 0w arrive quickly but lack sufficient film strength.
Thank you for the wonderful video. One issue that you haven’t mentioned is that many engines have oil viscosity ratings recommended by manufactures that relate to outside air temperature ranges, ie the colder the climatic conditions/daily temp range the lower the recommended viscosity range, higher outside temps higher viscosity ranges recommended. In addition there is the aspect of how extreme are the operating conditions, such as the difference between regular driving and driving around a racetrack as an example, which has a similar effect to recommended viscosity ranges to hotter outside air temperatures. Admittedly most passenger vehicles have only one recommended viscosity range. Motorcycles though usually have a number of oil viscosity recommendations based on operating ambient temperatures.
Have a HONDA with 500k millage and found 20-W-50 GTX Castrol Conversational Oil STOPPED OIL CONSUMPTIION PLUS HAS MORE POWER BEHIND IT. Better then scrapping it, did anyone else find the same solution? My friend did it to his TOYOTA COROLLA with over 650k millage and it worked for him. He claims no smoke or oil consumption and more horsepower. WORKS FOR ME!
I agree with a LOT of what this video has to say. My 2 pennies on engines has some notes. If you have a really worn car, like say a little worn out 1.6l, and its in the summer, it may be okay to use 10-30 instead of 5w-20, BUT that can still cause damage if you are dumb and rev your engine in the morning, or dont drive it every day. Dont use that example as a rule! Also, say you have a car you put a turbo on, you'd be better off changing it a higher weight oil, like 0w-20 to something like 5w30/40. Always ask a mechanic or your engine specialist, and remember, any oil is better than no oil.
most of what he said is correctly incorrect. the W stands for winter. That measurement of viscosity is at 40 degree C. and is in a relative equation to the other number lets say 30. That's the viscosity at 100 degree C. You are 100% correct about changing viscosity on an older engine. As engines age mechanical slop starts to become present in the bearing surfaces. We are talking microns here, like the difference between a 5w20 and a 5 or 10w30. merely 6 to 10 microns. That much range can be found between differing oil manufacturing measurements within the same viscosity rating.
The first and second set of numbers are on different scales of measurement and do not relate to each other. The oil always gets thinner as it gets hotter.
No. They're both SAE. They're both also referring to centistokes.(cps). One is kinematic viscosity the other is still. But still same unit and scale🤦🤦. "Thinner" is not the way to think of it "shear" and film related to viscosity not "thinner". It's why things are added to improve those two (shear and film thickness). You're both wrong and out of your depths. #dunningKruger.
Motor oil gets thinner as it's heated, but to prevent it from getting too thin at higher temperatures, additives (viscosity modifiers) are used so that it behaves like a thicker grade oil at higher temps.
There are more factors that determine the distribution of oil. For example, the type of oil pump setup can affect the pressure of the oil, under different viscosities. 0W-30 will result in low pressure at startup and 10W-30 will produce much more pressure. Because of the complex oil passages that can clog, making sure there is always clean oil in the engine will help a lot more than adjusting the viscosity. I make sure I change the oil but I change the oil filter at least twice as often.
0W and 10W is very different with cold engine, it is very important. 0W protects engine a lot better at cold start and oil pressure is not a problem at all.
That was an amazing video of information my friend ....you just taught me something i been trying to figure out for years....i have a 88 chevy 350 in a pickup and i love this truck want keep my engine lubricated properly to maintain engine life thankyou Sir.
Interesting information and video. I think the oil flow effects how the upper end of the engine is lubricated. To high a viscosity I'm referring to. It reminds me of a person who has a bad injury to themselves. They bleed out before the blood reaches the bran.
Great explanation in (theory) how about doing the test on a small engine. Find the last gallery to be filled & time it. I bet actual results using 0w30 to 10w 30 would be very little & modern oils stick to surfaces better so it not going to a lot of difference to start up wear. Better to extol the benefit of regular oil & filter change.
That's true on a brand new engine, but after years and high mileage that factory recommended oil won't provide same protection due to wear ,higher grades will be recommended to provide proper lubrication.
@@TheRepairSpecialist Tomorrow I will get it done Ford windstar 3,8 v6 2002 SEA 5W-20 on the cup. I had 10w-40 first winter day car going bad noise from the engine. Looking for trouble broken plug wire one didn't solve the problem. Wait for tomorrow and will get back.
SAE 10 oil has a dynamic viscosity of 0.3 Pa-s at 0 degC and 0.005 Pa-s at 100 degC. SAE 30 oil has a dynamic viscosity of 1.3 Pa-s at 0 degC and 0.01 Pa-s at 100 degC. SAE 10W-30 oil has a dynamic viscosity of 0.3 Pa-s at 0 degC and 0.01 Pa-s at 100 degC
you can use synthetic oil, of course its better than non synthetic on any vehicle, but make sure your engine is clean, because sometimes, leaking start to happen due to detergent on synthetic washing out your engine and any SEAL on your engine will be damaged due to dirt that washed out (if your engine is not clean) The better method is, you use new non synthetic oil, run your engine high enough, drain, repeat if the leftover oil color change (dirt should be diffused onto new non synthetic oil), then change it to synthetic
you may certainly use synthetic oils for any engine old or new; the problem was decades ago (1990s) when they first made the synthetic oils the esters that was used at the time has eaten into some type of gaskets or orings; this is not a problem now and was solved a little after that time... you may find this info explained in youtube channel Lubrication Explained episode evolution of engine oils
Thank you for the explanation! I have one question regarding 5W20 vs 5W30, at home we have 2 cars using the same Honda engine the K24, the cars are Honda Accord 2003 and Acura TSX 2004, same K24 engine on both car but the Accord would use 5W20 and TSX 5W30, I live in Canada so we can have temp from -30C to +30C. Why they are using different viscosity for the same engine, I know it is the same because I am the one doing maintenance for both car, I have asked this question on another car channel but no answer, some body suggested 5W20 was used to have a better km/l consumption as less viscous, still I am skeptical.
5W20 doesn't have the best protection, it has the best MPG, so they'll recommend it. If you want my advice I will recommend you to use the 5W40 all year round and even better, use an friction additive called MotorCote but not the 10%, but 5% every oil change, and than tell me how is it running, and what gas mileage you are getting 😉
Manufacturers are moving towards thinner oils for better economy and emissions compliance. As long as the oil is changed regularly and is rated for your climate conditions then there’s no issues using different oil.
finally I get it, also I have been using the wrong oil all along using 20w-50 instead of the recommended 10w-30 I though it was ok since I live in a really hot country.
TheKnightDrag0n you said "I finally get it"🤣, you didn't get anything, thicker oil than recommended with the engine hot is NOT GOOD so when 20w when cold could be ok the 50 when hot is Not, MORON!!
Ignore Carlos, he doesn't have the slightest clue. You were right imo, 20-50 is better as long as it isn't too cold when you start the car. How cold is too cold is the question but there are so many other factors you cannot say one is correct for everyone. Imo 10-30 is not good is a "hot" area. I use even thicker and I'm at ~32 degrees latitude so not really that hot. I would never use 10-30 because I'm not brainwashed and I want my engine to last.
I have an old worn engine. Possibly cam bearings. I live in northern California. It gets 112 degrees Fahrenheit in July. Should I stick with 5w30 or move up a bit to let's say 5w40?
I can completely understand your questioning here. I myself would wonder this. The issue is though, that if I recommend a certain oil, then it damages your engine as a result, then this is unresponsible of me. I would contact your vehicle manufacturer and get their take on it. Maybe they have a fact sheet of recommendations. Sorry I can't help further. Craig
You can use half n half for extreme heats n extreme winters, 5w-20 (from 5w-30) 10w-40 or 10w-30 , sae high mileage , option is full synthetic only case high mileage is already half synthetic ,,, use a lubricant additive 2 of bestline is a great one,, so you pour bestline first then then 5w20 n last the highest grade , put in between pours let it run all the way thru n down you can help it by hand turning the engine, to lubricate it,,this also gets in the oil filter without fill it in with oil much cleaner
Sir, your explanation of engine oil viscosity and engine oil capillary, rod and main bearing tolerances was excellent. I liked and subscribed to your channel.
Hi there thank you for this very informative content. But pls correct me if im wrong, so basing on your explanation, the 2nd number(viscosity rating for working temp) is a bit more important in choosing the oil for your engine since you will be running the engine most of the time. As for the 1st no.(viscosity rating for a cold start) especially in the morning. My question is, what is the co relation of the viscosity rating in cold start has to do with the weather condition of the country you are in? It makes sense for a country that is freezing cold could get the benefits of a 0W, but for a tropical country could you still use a 10w-30 or 20w-30(as you have said for a cold start it will take longer than 90 seconds) for a 5w-30 recommended engine without damaging it the long run. Thanks!
My I jump in? It is a quastion of '"Pumpability/Flowability". The 0............60 insures that the oil will maintaine it´s Pumpability and Flowability within a wide range of engin and climatic tempatures to lubricate and protect engine parts. Depending on the driving and climatic tempature conditions (-45c - +45c) you do not need such a wide spread in Viscosity but narrow it down to your driving conditions. Hope it helps.
@TheRepairSpecialist, thank you for your informative videos. Can you make a video on how climate temperature affects the viscosity of the engine oil? My car owner handbook recommends SAE 0W20, 0W30, 5W30, 5W40. and my living area climate is summer all along between 32 degree to 25 degree Celsius
Yes, I agree with you and this is something that drove me to make a second video explaining what I meant by this exactly because it does seem confusing. Please take a look at this video in the link, which I hope makes things a little clearer for you. Thank Craig :th-cam.com/video/gmLASM9XcM4/w-d-xo.html
Hello I have a Buick Lasabre 2000 and the oil cap says 10W-30 and they man at the store gave me 5W-30 and a qtr of 5W-20. I turned my car on after completing my oil change and literally after a minute past by something start smoking from the engine. Any help ASAP???
5W-30 is fine but I don't understand why he gave you a quart of 5W-20 as well? The smoke is probably just from some oil being spilled on the exhaust manifold when the oil was being changed.
Loved that. would be impressed if you could explain the c/a rating system. I mean why does anybody sell a3 if A5 is the same but better ? why are C's always recommended online even for 20 yr old wrecks ?
One think not clear when we stop bike sometime and run again then vescocity is higher then normal. I think we can say that ist time wear and tear can be occurred when you start the engine always.
Generally yes, but really it depends on your oil pressure at the last bearing furthest from the pump, which you'd have to measure to be sure. As an eng wears you lose oil psi and the last bearing gets the least since it's furthest away. So at some point, due to wear, more oil is bleeding out the other parts before it get there, then you're screwed. So yes, thicker oil helps. There's also the oil pump which wears and makes less psi, especially at idle. Thicker oil also protects parts better period so imo all engines need thicker oil but apparently I'm outvoted by the masses that believe oil charts dictated my car mfg who are in turn dictated by the EPA, neither of which cares about your old eng and would prefer it die and you get a new car. The only time you may need thinner oil is when the eng is very cold, but even then it's a matter or whether or not a cold start is harder on it than too thin of oil is the rest of the time.
Sir, You explained nicely. I need a little help. I have a Motorcycle which I bought in 2006. The manufacturer recommended oil was 20W40. But from 2009 onwards, the manufacturer changed the recommended oil to 20w50 for their Motorcycle's built after 2009. What should I do. Should I still stick to 2006 recommended grade of 20W40 or should I use 20W50. Earlier from 2006 to 2014, I used to live in plain area. And now I live in hilly area. So sir, please suggest me what to use. 20w40 (2006 recommendation) Or 20w50 (2009 to till date recommended)
Maybe they learned 20-40 was a bad idea but if they admitted that then people with older bikes would try to sue if theirs failed. I think the 20-40 is probably ok but why use it if you have the option of 20-50? Air cooled bikes especially so but you didn't specify.
Yes and No. You also have to consider the automobile manufacturers will recommend the thinnest oil possible to claim better gas mileage - when in fact a thicker oil will protect better. For instance - I have run a 5w30 in my V8 F150 since new even though 5w20 is “recommended”. I’ll never see a difference in gas mileage as the manufacturer gets their numbers from an average of many vehicles combined. However - I’m at 120k miles on the engine and it still runs like new.
You've raised an insightful point about the use of multigrade oils in vehicles, and it's great to hear that your V8 F150 is still running smoothly at 120k miles with your choice of 5w30 oil, despite the manufacturer's recommendation of 5w20. It's true that automobile manufacturers often recommend thinner oils like 5w20 to optimize fuel efficiency, as part of their strategy to meet regulatory requirements and market demands for better gas mileage. However, the choice between a slightly thicker oil (like 5w30) and the recommended thinner oil (like 5w20) can be nuanced. Thicker oils can indeed provide better protection in certain engines, especially under high load or high-temperature conditions, as they maintain their viscosity and protective qualities better than thinner oils. This can be particularly relevant for older engines or those used in harsher driving conditions. On the flip side, modern engines are often specifically designed for thinner oils, and using a thicker oil can sometimes lead to increased friction or reduced efficiency, which might not be ideal for every engine type. The difference in gas mileage might be small and not noticeable in everyday driving, but over the lifetime of the vehicle, it could add up. It's also worth considering that engine technology and oil formulations have evolved significantly. Modern synthetic oils, including thinner grades, are often highly effective at protecting engines, even under extreme conditions. In essence, while it's important to consider manufacturer recommendations, your approach of using a slightly thicker oil and monitoring the engine's performance is a practical one. It's always a good idea to keep an eye on how your vehicle is responding to the oil you use, and to consult with a trusted mechanic, especially as the vehicle ages or if it's used in demanding conditions. Your experience underscores the importance of understanding your specific vehicle's needs and not just following general guidelines. Thank you for your input Craig
Thanks for this. I googled and asked around but got no real answers. I accidentally put 10w-30 in my dodge neon, which calls for 5w-30. Doing another oil change tonight to correct the problem.
Well explained vid, thanks for that... I have a question to ask you. What about if I’ve fitted some performance/aftermarket parts to the car, like headers, CAI, exhaust.. Do we need to change the oil for high viscosity when engine is warm?? like from 5W-30 to 5W-40..??
The oil is mainly for the bearings and cam and they don't know if you have headers. If you have a cam with a more aggressive lobe and stronger valve springs then the cam and/or lifters will last longer if the oil is thicker. I don't know how cold it gets where you live but I'd never use 5w in anything I care about. My hotrod uses a blend that's more like 30W-60.
I'm sorry, but in a video about using the right oil, misspeaking 15w30 when you mean 5w30 is critical. However then you compared in a way that covers your misspeak, so, we're good.
im living in a hot climate area, my honda fit is now around 215,000 miles, usually i use 5w-30. now im currently using 15-40 oil and now feels soooo sluggish.. 💀 next im using 530 back
I have a 1994 Mercury Cougar 4.6L 103,000 miles. Owners manual calls for 10w30. Twenty eight years later I found out about a service bulletin that says to use 5w20. I wonder what the problem was.
your vehicle manufacture already consider this when selling the car in your area, why are you fighting against engineer that went through years of school? Use the oil thats prescribe especially if you are under warranty. Car dealership will deny your warranty for literally anything...
I have a 2017 volvo xc70 D4, can u tell me is it possible the wrong viscosity oil could cause engine failure (crankshaft to break) over a 3 month period
Is switching oil viscosity based on external temperature a myth since manufacturers recommended usually only 1 viscosity I live in 44c weather which is not safe for lower viscosity such 0w20?
What about the Land Cruiser V8, 5.7 petro engine, in the US they say use 0W20, but the same vehicle and engine ( they are all built in Japan at the same plant) in other countries say you can use 5W30. Why is that?
and yet ..when I go to a store and do an online check for my vehicle, the viscosity ratings all vary with different brands from the owners manual ..why is this ? I just choose what the owners manual says ie 20W 50
@@AdityaShukla97 My cars handbook "users manual" says the proper engine oil for this car is either 5w20, 5w30 or 10w30 depending on the climate but for the 6 years i've owned the car i only used 20w50 due to my ignorance of course and the engine is still running with no problems it doesn't even burn oil. my car is a hyundai elantra HD 08.
@@AdityaShukla97 I think it's a drastic drop from 20w50 to 5w30 so in my next engine oil change i will use the 10w30 and in the oil change after that i will use the 5w20 and i will keep using the 5w20 as long as i own this car, cause the users manual says that "for better fuel economy use the 5w20 unless you don't have it your country then use the 5w30 or the 10w30. what do you think?
Nearly every modern engine made in the last 50 years has called for 10W30. All of these engines, using that oil, have had very good life when it comes to wear on moving parts. The current switch to 0W20, to satisfy mileage requirements is causing premature piston ring wear, and probably a lot of excessive wear on other parts, like oil pumps. You can expect to need an engine overhaul below 70K miles if you use this oil. The manufacturers care about government and don't give a damn about the customer. BTW, the manufacturers like Honda, Toyota, Subaru, to name a few, are aware of this and offer recalls on excessive ring wear, but, as usual, they have myriad tricks to get out of covering the customer for their MISTAKES!
Hi, I have a r15 v2, recently i have used motul 15w50 ss oil with 3m flush & additive in my bike, where as 10w40 is recommended. lately my bike is heating more than before (yamalue 10w40), especially on the left side of engine(FYI magnet or some sort idk,clutch plates are on the right.) Also there was a leakage from the oil filter section, they said the oil seal is damaged and did temporarily fixed with glue. PLEASE HELP. Happy new year.
You can as long as it's detergent oil. Well, I suppose it's not critical to use detergent but it's better. If you're only topping it off I don't a problem at all.
It sounds to me like the engine could have been tipped towards the air filter at some point. I would start by cleaning the air filter of oil, or replacing it, then removing the carburetor float bowl and clean it, then I would try starting, and running, the engine and see if all is OK. If you try starting the engine and it seems to have locked up and wont turn, then there may be oil at the top of the cycling stopping the engine turning. If so, then I would remove the spark plug and turn over the engine a few times to release the pressure. Then replace the spark plug and try starting. I personally would go from here and see what happens. Thanks. Craig
Since this is a 4 stroke engine no oil can come from the carb or the fuel (that kind of oil blow back occurs with 2 stroke engines). My Honda gx270 has a PU foam sleeve as a first barrier air filter. This fits around the metal frame paper filter cartridge, and the foam may be impregnated with oil. The oil is meant to capture the dust, but it tends to settle and leak out to the bottom, if too much was used. Squeeze out the foam or dip excess oil with Kleenex. The foam filter can also be used completely dry. In that case more frequent cleaning or washing e.g. with diesel fuel, is advised. Some different types of air filters are used on this engine. Perhaps you have an oil bath/wire mesh air filter? That may leak a bit while tilting. No problem in that case. Otherwise you may have a leaking inlet valve oil seal that blows back oil. In this case you should see oil traces on the valve stem and inlet channel. This is worse, but reparable
I just changed my oil today,the mechanic accidentally puts 300ml of 10w60 on my engine ,with 1 liter also 10w40 oil, soo now i have 1liter of 10w40 and 300ml of 10w60,can someone tell me if it is good or bad?.i live in a tropical country
I have single cylinder bike ktm rc390...can I mix 10w40 with 10w50...? Already there is 10w40 7100 motul in my bike so can I topup with 10w50 ? Bcoz nly oil level has gone down but oil is good in condition
Hi. Thank you for contacting me. I do, however, have to advise that you stick to the oil specification suggested by the manufacture of your engine. The reason for this if because if I suggest a particular oil for you to use, then you go ahead and use it, and it results in damage of your engine then this would be terrible for you and my liability would be in question. I hope you understand my point. Thanks again though. Craig
i put 2 cycle oil on my lawn mower not paying attention until after it shut down realized i picked up the wrong oil it want start now what do i do now 😅
I personally would, first of all, remove the spark plug, then have someone press the OPC lever while you turn over the engine to see if it is seized or not. You might find it best to do this by tipping the mower back and turning the blade. Again, only do this with the spark plug removed. If it is not seized, then replace the oil with the correct oil and try starting engine. If the engine will not turn over, then it might be best to take it to a repair shop to be looked at by a professional. This is because it could be a whole host of things possibly wrong with it. I hope this helped Craig
Hi. Well that depends on what the questioning is exactly. A 5W-40 will act like a 5 does when it is cold, and then when the engine reaches working temperature, it acts like a 40 does at that temperature. I hope this helps. Thanks , Craig
In my opinion its vital to go with your bikes manufactures recommendation for the type of oil it requires. If I tell you to use a specific oil and then your bike gets damaged as a result then my liability is under question. Thats why i cant give you an answer to that. Sorry
@@rakeshkumarsingh5244 I don't have to worry about liability so I'd suggest a 20 "winter" at minimum and ~50 hot, so 20-50 is easy to find so that makes it easy. I'd use even thicker but you didn't specify what bike and how hot summer is.
Watching this in 2024. Very clear and concise and straight to the point. Brilliant!
This a great video, best I've seen. Which is why I am inclined to the make the effort to add to the content creator's knowledge. Specifically, about why 0w-30 should not be used in a 5w-30 engine. Yes, the oil will reach the parts faster, but the reason the manufactuer has specified 5w as the minimum for winter spec is because while 0w reaches the parts faster, it will do so at less pressure. In another video, you explained that sufficient film pressure is required to fully suspend some parts in a film of oil. If 0w is used, yes the oil will arrive quickly but will be squeezed out, and will tend to spray and splatter making the quicker lubrication pointless. It is better for the oil to take very slightly longer to arrive at 5w than to have 0w arrive quickly but lack sufficient film strength.
THIS IS GREAT SO WELL EXPLAINED I WILL NEVER FORGET WHY USING THE CORRECT OIL IS SO IMPORTANT.
Thank you for the wonderful video.
One issue that you haven’t mentioned is that many engines have oil viscosity ratings recommended by manufactures that relate to outside air temperature ranges, ie the colder the climatic conditions/daily temp range the lower the recommended viscosity range, higher outside temps higher viscosity ranges recommended. In addition there is the aspect of how extreme are the operating conditions, such as the difference between regular driving and driving around a racetrack as an example, which has a similar effect to recommended viscosity ranges to hotter outside air temperatures. Admittedly most passenger vehicles have only one recommended viscosity range. Motorcycles though usually have a number of oil viscosity recommendations based on operating ambient temperatures.
I believe tolorances for mains and cams is 1,5 thousand.
With milage the tolorances will increase so a higher viscosity oil will be needed.
Finally, a logical step-by-step explanation to what would happen to the engine if the wrong oil is put in it. Thank you.
Superbly explained, the best explanation I've found in years (ever actually)!
Have a HONDA with 500k millage and found 20-W-50 GTX Castrol Conversational Oil STOPPED OIL CONSUMPTIION PLUS HAS MORE POWER BEHIND IT.
Better then scrapping it, did anyone else find the same solution?
My friend did it to his TOYOTA COROLLA with over 650k millage and it worked for him. He claims no smoke or oil consumption and more horsepower.
WORKS FOR ME!
now i know the difference on the oil grade that put on the engine of the car, thanks for sharing this
I agree with a LOT of what this video has to say. My 2 pennies on engines has some notes. If you have a really worn car, like say a little worn out 1.6l, and its in the summer, it may be okay to use 10-30 instead of 5w-20, BUT that can still cause damage if you are dumb and rev your engine in the morning, or dont drive it every day. Dont use that example as a rule! Also, say you have a car you put a turbo on, you'd be better off changing it a higher weight oil, like 0w-20 to something like 5w30/40. Always ask a mechanic or your engine specialist, and remember, any oil is better than no oil.
most of what he said is correctly incorrect. the W stands for winter. That measurement of viscosity is at 40 degree C. and is in a relative equation to the other number lets say 30. That's the viscosity at 100 degree C. You are 100% correct about changing viscosity on an older engine. As engines age mechanical slop starts to become present in the bearing surfaces. We are talking microns here, like the difference between a 5w20 and a 5 or 10w30. merely 6 to 10 microns. That much range can be found between differing oil manufacturing measurements within the same viscosity rating.
You have the best explanations, very informative!
The first and second set of numbers are on different scales of measurement and do not relate to each other. The oil always gets thinner as it gets hotter.
You're right, hes absolutely jibberish about this. No Scientifical backing up this. This is why everybody beleives it.
No. They're both SAE. They're both also referring to centistokes.(cps). One is kinematic viscosity the other is still. But still same unit and scale🤦🤦. "Thinner" is not the way to think of it "shear" and film related to viscosity not "thinner". It's why things are added to improve those two (shear and film thickness). You're both wrong and out of your depths. #dunningKruger.
Motor oil gets thinner as it's heated, but to prevent it from getting too thin at higher temperatures, additives (viscosity modifiers) are used so that it behaves like a thicker grade oil at higher temps.
There are more factors that determine the distribution of oil.
For example, the type of oil pump setup can affect the pressure of the oil, under different viscosities. 0W-30 will result in low pressure at startup and 10W-30 will produce much more pressure.
Because of the complex oil passages that can clog, making sure there is always clean oil in the engine will help a lot more than adjusting the viscosity.
I make sure I change the oil but I change the oil filter at least twice as often.
0W and 10W is very different with cold engine, it is very important. 0W protects engine a lot better at cold start and oil pressure is not a problem at all.
This is the kind of video I have been looking for. Thank you.
That was an amazing video of information my friend ....you just taught me something i been trying to figure out for years....i have a 88 chevy 350 in a pickup and i love this truck want keep my engine lubricated properly to maintain engine life thankyou Sir.
Interesting information and video. I think the oil flow effects how the upper end of the engine is lubricated. To high a viscosity I'm referring to. It reminds me of a person who has a bad injury to themselves. They bleed out before the blood reaches the bran.
my owners manual literally has from 0w-30 (all temps) all the way up to 20w-50(if over 0 deg celcius)
T-GDI.
Great explanation in (theory) how about doing the test on a small engine. Find the last gallery to be filled & time it. I bet actual results using 0w30 to 10w 30 would be very little & modern oils stick to surfaces better so it not going to a lot of difference to start up wear. Better to extol the benefit of regular oil & filter change.
That's true on a brand new engine, but after years and high mileage that factory recommended oil won't provide same protection due to wear ,higher grades will be recommended to provide proper lubrication.
False
Excellent presentation,keep it up,love from heart.
Watched many videos for this very info. Thank you so much for making it. ❤
You are so welcome!
Well explained I thank you for this post
Easiest Way to Explain
Thanks A lot Buddy
He said 15w30 when there was 5w30. 1:43
Very good indeed, as always.
Excellent & clear explanation 👍🙏
I've used 5W30 in place of the recommended 10W30 without issue.
OK. Good to know thanks
You're exactly ✅ right
@@TheRepairSpecialist Tomorrow I will get it done Ford windstar 3,8 v6 2002 SEA 5W-20 on the cup.
I had 10w-40 first winter day car going bad noise from the engine.
Looking for trouble broken plug wire one didn't solve the problem.
Wait for tomorrow and will get back.
Thank you for your knowledge. Your videos are excellant and very helpful 👍👍👍
I've swapped to 0w30 with no issues at all 1973 455 2112 EcoBoost, and 3.5 yota. going on over a year now.
SAE 10 oil has a dynamic viscosity of 0.3 Pa-s at 0 degC and 0.005 Pa-s at 100 degC.
SAE 30 oil has a dynamic viscosity of 1.3 Pa-s at 0 degC and 0.01 Pa-s at 100 degC.
SAE 10W-30 oil has a dynamic viscosity of 0.3 Pa-s at 0 degC and 0.01 Pa-s at 100 degC
Awesome 👍
CAN YOU DO A VIDEO ON WHY YOU SHOULD OR SHOULDN'T USE SYNTHETIC IN OLDER VEHICLES THEY USE TO USE REGULAR OIL OR IF IT REALLY MATTERS.
you can use synthetic oil, of course its better than non synthetic on any vehicle, but make sure your engine is clean, because sometimes, leaking start to happen due to detergent on synthetic washing out your engine and any SEAL on your engine will be damaged due to dirt that washed out (if your engine is not clean)
The better method is, you use new non synthetic oil, run your engine high enough, drain, repeat if the leftover oil color change (dirt should be diffused onto new non synthetic oil), then change it to synthetic
you may certainly use synthetic oils for any engine old or new; the problem was decades ago (1990s) when they first made the synthetic oils the esters that was used at the time has eaten into some type of gaskets or orings; this is not a problem now and was solved a little after that time...
you may find this info explained in youtube channel Lubrication Explained episode evolution of engine oils
What lecture!! Thank you
Thank you for the explanation! I have one question regarding 5W20 vs 5W30, at home we have 2 cars using the same Honda engine the K24, the cars are Honda Accord 2003 and Acura TSX 2004, same K24 engine on both car but the Accord would use 5W20 and TSX 5W30, I live in Canada so we can have temp from -30C to +30C. Why they are using different viscosity for the same engine, I know it is the same because I am the one doing maintenance for both car, I have asked this question on another car channel but no answer, some body suggested 5W20 was used to have a better km/l consumption as less viscous, still I am skeptical.
5W20 doesn't have the best protection, it has the best MPG, so they'll recommend it. If you want my advice I will recommend you to use the 5W40 all year round and even better, use an friction additive called MotorCote but not the 10%, but 5% every oil change, and than tell me how is it running, and what gas mileage you are getting 😉
Manufacturers are moving towards thinner oils for better economy and emissions compliance.
As long as the oil is changed regularly and is rated for your climate conditions then there’s no issues using different oil.
@@horiatomescu MPG has nothing to do with it!! Attend an oil seminar, there's a standing rule why 5w20 is used!
finally I get it, also I have been using the wrong oil all along using 20w-50 instead of the recommended 10w-30 I though it was ok since I live in a really hot country.
TheKnightDrag0n you said "I finally get it"🤣, you didn't get anything, thicker oil than recommended with the engine hot is NOT GOOD so when 20w when cold could be ok the 50 when hot is Not, MORON!!
Ignore Carlos, he doesn't have the slightest clue. You were right imo, 20-50 is better as long as it isn't too cold when you start the car. How cold is too cold is the question but there are so many other factors you cannot say one is correct for everyone. Imo 10-30 is not good is a "hot" area. I use even thicker and I'm at ~32 degrees latitude so not really that hot. I would never use 10-30 because I'm not brainwashed and I want my engine to last.
Such a great explanation!!
Thank you for your nice feedback. I appreciate it.
Thank you for your video that is really helpful video
Another excellent explinantion.thank you for the great graphics.
Your video was well done for me.
I have an old worn engine. Possibly cam bearings.
I live in northern California. It gets 112 degrees Fahrenheit in July. Should I stick with 5w30 or move up a bit to let's say 5w40?
I can completely understand your questioning here. I myself would wonder this. The issue is though, that if I recommend a certain oil, then it damages your engine as a result, then this is unresponsible of me. I would contact your vehicle manufacturer and get their take on it. Maybe they have a fact sheet of recommendations. Sorry I can't help further. Craig
You can use half n half for extreme heats n extreme winters, 5w-20 (from 5w-30) 10w-40 or 10w-30 , sae high mileage , option is full synthetic only case high mileage is already half synthetic ,,, use a lubricant additive 2 of bestline is a great one,, so you pour bestline first then then 5w20 n last the highest grade , put in between pours let it run all the way thru n down you can help it by hand turning the engine, to lubricate it,,this also gets in the oil filter without fill it in with oil much cleaner
Sir, your explanation of engine oil viscosity and engine oil capillary, rod and main bearing tolerances was excellent. I liked and subscribed to your channel.
Superb explanation 👍🏿
I saw this video to many time. Good job 👏🏼
Hi there thank you for this very informative content. But pls correct me if im wrong, so basing on your explanation, the 2nd number(viscosity rating for working temp) is a bit more important in choosing the oil for your engine since you will be running the engine most of the time. As for the 1st no.(viscosity rating for a cold start) especially in the morning. My question is, what is the co relation of the viscosity rating in cold start has to do with the weather condition of the country you are in? It makes sense for a country that is freezing cold could get the benefits of a 0W, but for a tropical country could you still use a 10w-30 or 20w-30(as you have said for a cold start it will take longer than 90 seconds) for a 5w-30 recommended engine without damaging it the long run. Thanks!
My I jump in?
It is a quastion of '"Pumpability/Flowability". The 0............60 insures that the oil will maintaine it´s Pumpability and Flowability within a wide range of engin and climatic tempatures to lubricate and protect engine parts.
Depending on the driving and climatic tempature conditions (-45c - +45c) you do not need such a wide spread in Viscosity but narrow it down to your driving conditions.
Hope it helps.
very well-explained!Thank you!
what a great video superb ,
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome! 👍👍
@TheRepairSpecialist, thank you for your informative videos. Can you make a video on how climate temperature affects the viscosity of the engine oil? My car owner handbook recommends SAE 0W20, 0W30, 5W30, 5W40. and my living area climate is summer all along between 32 degree to 25 degree Celsius
In my Mercedes E430 V8 I use all year round 5W40 Shell Rotella full synthetic for 18 wheelers, and I got 180k miles, and runs perfect
Amazing explanation.
Protection vs. economy (mpg). The decision shouldn't be difficult.
Fair enough 👍
very well explained... now i know... i gotcha...
There is no right or wrong! All depend the wether in your country at the time you drive 😊
My civic recommends 0w20 but I’ve heard from other civic owners switching to 5w30 in the summer. They ran their cars 200k no problems. Is that safe?
Thank you dear
Welcome 😊
Thanks very much. Jest know i know what happening in the engine
I think we all got the theory but hotter is always thinner, it comes out like water
Yes, I agree with you and this is something that drove me to make a second video explaining what I meant by this exactly because it does seem confusing. Please take a look at this video in the link, which I hope makes things a little clearer for you. Thank Craig
:th-cam.com/video/gmLASM9XcM4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, good video.
I use 10w 40 in my bike.. company recommend is 10w30.. is it going to harm engine??
nice explanation i ever see!!!
Hello I have a Buick Lasabre 2000 and the oil cap says 10W-30 and they man at the store gave me 5W-30 and a qtr of 5W-20. I turned my car on after completing my oil change and literally after a minute past by something start smoking from the engine. Any help ASAP???
5W-30 is fine but I don't understand why he gave you a quart of 5W-20 as well? The smoke is probably just from some oil being spilled on the exhaust manifold when the oil was being changed.
Perfect explination
Loved that. would be impressed if you could explain the c/a rating system. I mean why does anybody sell a3 if A5 is the same but better ? why are C's always recommended online even for 20 yr old wrecks ?
One think not clear when we stop bike sometime and run again then vescocity is higher then normal. I think we can say that ist time wear and tear can be occurred when you start the engine always.
Good point. I appreciate your comment. Thanks 😊
Many people have the belief that if the engine is old you need to use thicker oil could that be true?
That's exactly what I want to know
Generally yes, but really it depends on your oil pressure at the last bearing furthest from the pump, which you'd have to measure to be sure. As an eng wears you lose oil psi and the last bearing gets the least since it's furthest away. So at some point, due to wear, more oil is bleeding out the other parts before it get there, then you're screwed. So yes, thicker oil helps. There's also the oil pump which wears and makes less psi, especially at idle. Thicker oil also protects parts better period so imo all engines need thicker oil but apparently I'm outvoted by the masses that believe oil charts dictated my car mfg who are in turn dictated by the EPA, neither of which cares about your old eng and would prefer it die and you get a new car. The only time you may need thinner oil is when the eng is very cold, but even then it's a matter or whether or not a cold start is harder on it than too thin of oil is the rest of the time.
My car is 0w 20 and am using 10w 30 and no problems
Sir,
You explained nicely.
I need a little help.
I have a Motorcycle which I bought in 2006.
The manufacturer recommended oil was 20W40.
But from 2009 onwards, the manufacturer changed the recommended oil to 20w50 for their Motorcycle's built after 2009.
What should I do.
Should I still stick to 2006 recommended grade of 20W40 or should I use 20W50.
Earlier from 2006 to 2014, I used to live in plain area.
And now I live in hilly area.
So sir, please suggest me what to use.
20w40 (2006 recommendation)
Or
20w50 (2009 to till date recommended)
Well, if your motorcycle was built after 2009, use the new recommendation.
Maybe they learned 20-40 was a bad idea but if they admitted that then people with older bikes would try to sue if theirs failed. I think the 20-40 is probably ok but why use it if you have the option of 20-50? Air cooled bikes especially so but you didn't specify.
My car's owner's manual recommends 5W-30 or 10W-30
Yes and No. You also have to consider the automobile manufacturers will recommend the thinnest oil possible to claim better gas mileage - when in fact a thicker oil will protect better. For instance - I have run a 5w30 in my V8 F150 since new even though 5w20 is “recommended”. I’ll never see a difference in gas mileage as the manufacturer gets their numbers from an average of many vehicles combined. However - I’m at 120k miles on the engine and it still runs like new.
You've raised an insightful point about the use of multigrade oils in vehicles, and it's great to hear that your V8 F150 is still running smoothly at 120k miles with your choice of 5w30 oil, despite the manufacturer's recommendation of 5w20. It's true that automobile manufacturers often recommend thinner oils like 5w20 to optimize fuel efficiency, as part of their strategy to meet regulatory requirements and market demands for better gas mileage.
However, the choice between a slightly thicker oil (like 5w30) and the recommended thinner oil (like 5w20) can be nuanced. Thicker oils can indeed provide better protection in certain engines, especially under high load or high-temperature conditions, as they maintain their viscosity and protective qualities better than thinner oils. This can be particularly relevant for older engines or those used in harsher driving conditions.
On the flip side, modern engines are often specifically designed for thinner oils, and using a thicker oil can sometimes lead to increased friction or reduced efficiency, which might not be ideal for every engine type. The difference in gas mileage might be small and not noticeable in everyday driving, but over the lifetime of the vehicle, it could add up.
It's also worth considering that engine technology and oil formulations have evolved significantly. Modern synthetic oils, including thinner grades, are often highly effective at protecting engines, even under extreme conditions.
In essence, while it's important to consider manufacturer recommendations, your approach of using a slightly thicker oil and monitoring the engine's performance is a practical one. It's always a good idea to keep an eye on how your vehicle is responding to the oil you use, and to consult with a trusted mechanic, especially as the vehicle ages or if it's used in demanding conditions. Your experience underscores the importance of understanding your specific vehicle's needs and not just following general guidelines.
Thank you for your input
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist All very good points and extremely well thought out. I appreciate your response.
Thanks for this. I googled and asked around but got no real answers. I accidentally put 10w-30 in my dodge neon, which calls for 5w-30. Doing another oil change tonight to correct the problem.
Did anything anything happen when you put the wrong oil?
Thanks man 👍
Well explained vid, thanks for that... I have a question to ask you.
What about if I’ve fitted some performance/aftermarket parts to the car, like headers, CAI, exhaust..
Do we need to change the oil for high viscosity when engine is warm?? like from 5W-30 to 5W-40..??
The oil is mainly for the bearings and cam and they don't know if you have headers. If you have a cam with a more aggressive lobe and stronger valve springs then the cam and/or lifters will last longer if the oil is thicker. I don't know how cold it gets where you live but I'd never use 5w in anything I care about. My hotrod uses a blend that's more like 30W-60.
I'm sorry, but in a video about using the right oil, misspeaking 15w30 when you mean 5w30 is critical. However then you compared in a way that covers your misspeak, so, we're good.
You can probably take the hot viscosity up a notch if your engine has over 200,000 miles to to make up for any wear.
I'd take it a couple notched, but I'd focus more on the lower #, and I'd start doing it long before 200k
im living in a hot climate area, my honda fit is now around 215,000 miles, usually i use 5w-30. now im currently using 15-40 oil and now feels soooo sluggish.. 💀 next im using 530 back
I have a 1994 Mercury Cougar 4.6L 103,000 miles. Owners manual calls for 10w30. Twenty eight years later I found out about a service bulletin that says to use 5w20. I wonder what the problem was.
Rtfm. Owners manual will tell you what viscosity to use in what temperatures.
can you tell me the grade of oil for nissan micra k13(2012) in south algeria where the tempreture in summer is very high (up to 40°C)
Is there a fix for this? An example: k24z7 dc 0w20 recommend I put 10w30 by accident
If something live in warmer country like gulf state are they use 20 w 50
your vehicle manufacture already consider this when selling the car in your area, why are you fighting against engineer that went through years of school? Use the oil thats prescribe especially if you are under warranty. Car dealership will deny your warranty for literally anything...
My car is not under warranty
@@akhrot2642 ok thats beside the point, the point is the engineer stress test your car for that weight, use it.
The oii you use depends on the temperature, use motor oil 5w 30 on winter and 20w 40 for summer and 0w 20 for coldest countries.
@@trilingualkid He's not fighting an engineer, he's fighting the EPA that wants people to use thinner oil.
I have a 2017 volvo xc70 D4, can u tell me is it possible the wrong viscosity oil could cause engine failure (crankshaft to break) over a 3 month period
In my country most people switch from 5w30 to 10w30 so it protects the engine better and i just giggle at them 😆
In certain situations it will protect better....less vlls
I have being using 10w40 because I can't find 5w30, is it ok?
Is switching oil viscosity based on external temperature a myth since manufacturers recommended usually only 1 viscosity I live in 44c weather which is not safe for lower viscosity such 0w20?
What about the Land Cruiser V8, 5.7 petro engine, in the US they say use 0W20, but the same vehicle and engine ( they are all built in Japan at the same plant) in other countries say you can use 5W30. Why is that?
That’s what I thought.
and yet ..when I go to a store and do an online check for my vehicle, the viscosity ratings all vary with different brands from the owners manual ..why is this ? I just choose what the owners manual says ie 20W 50
Do i need to 'flush' my 20w-50 to the correct the 10w30 recommendation? Or basic oil change will do? Only a month used wrongly.
citrusphere yes! Immediately
@@AdityaShukla97 My cars handbook "users manual" says the proper engine oil for this car is either 5w20, 5w30 or 10w30 depending on the climate but for the 6 years i've owned the car i only used 20w50 due to my ignorance of course and the engine is still running with no problems it doesn't even burn oil. my car is a hyundai elantra HD 08.
Lighto use mobil 1 5w30 i am sure u will notice a lot of change
@@AdityaShukla97 I think it's a drastic drop from 20w50 to 5w30 so in my next engine oil change i will use the 10w30 and in the oil change after that i will use the 5w20 and i will keep using the 5w20 as long as i own this car, cause the users manual says that "for better fuel economy use the 5w20 unless you don't have it your country then use the 5w30 or the 10w30.
what do you think?
Do not flush the motor with crazy stuff, you're gone damage the seals or something else. Just switch to a 5W40 full synthetic all year round
Nearly every modern engine made in the last 50 years has called for 10W30. All of these engines, using that oil, have had very good life when it comes to wear on moving parts. The current switch to 0W20, to satisfy mileage requirements is causing premature piston ring wear, and probably a lot of excessive wear on other parts, like oil pumps. You can expect to need an engine overhaul below 70K miles if you use this oil. The manufacturers care about government and don't give a damn about the customer. BTW, the manufacturers like Honda, Toyota, Subaru, to name a few, are aware of this and offer recalls on excessive ring wear, but, as usual, they have myriad tricks to get out of covering the customer for their MISTAKES!
i used 20w50 but my manual is 10w30 ...is that okay?
Hi,
I have a r15 v2, recently i have used motul 15w50 ss oil with 3m flush & additive in my bike, where as 10w40 is recommended. lately my bike is heating more than before (yamalue 10w40), especially on the left side of engine(FYI magnet or some sort idk,clutch plates are on the right.) Also there was a leakage from the oil filter section, they said the oil seal is damaged and did temporarily fixed with glue.
PLEASE HELP.
Happy new year.
i live in ensenada it is not cold right now i need quart refill muy car uses 10w-30 or 10w-40 can i sue sae40 as refill?
You can as long as it's detergent oil. Well, I suppose it's not critical to use detergent but it's better. If you're only topping it off I don't a problem at all.
so i put 5w-30 in my 10w-30 engine. Can an oil change and filter change help my vechile? -.-'
Will using an oil additive like STP which is way too viscous can cause any damage to the engine ??
A modern engine yes
How do I find my oil when I don’t have the users manual
Google your car model and year and what type of oil it uses
Online, with Google
I need help please my honda gx 270 oil leaking on air filter what could be problem
Thanks
It sounds to me like the engine could have been tipped towards the air filter at some point. I would start by cleaning the air filter of oil, or replacing it, then removing the carburetor float bowl and clean it, then I would try starting, and running, the engine and see if all is OK. If you try starting the engine and it seems to have locked up and wont turn, then there may be oil at the top of the cycling stopping the engine turning. If so, then I would remove the spark plug and turn over the engine a few times to release the pressure. Then replace the spark plug and try starting. I personally would go from here and see what happens. Thanks. Craig
Since this is a 4 stroke engine no oil can come from the carb or the fuel (that kind of oil blow back occurs with 2 stroke engines). My Honda gx270 has a PU foam sleeve as a first barrier air filter. This fits around the metal frame paper filter cartridge, and the foam may be impregnated with oil. The oil is meant to capture the dust, but it tends to settle and leak out to the bottom, if too much was used. Squeeze out the foam or dip excess oil with Kleenex. The foam filter can also be used completely dry. In that case more frequent cleaning or washing e.g. with diesel fuel, is advised. Some different types of air filters are used on this engine. Perhaps you have an oil bath/wire mesh air filter? That may leak a bit while tilting. No problem in that case.
Otherwise you may have a leaking inlet valve oil seal that blows back oil. In this case you should see oil traces on the valve stem and inlet channel. This is worse, but reparable
I just changed my oil today,the mechanic accidentally puts 300ml of 10w60 on my engine ,with 1 liter also 10w40 oil, soo now i have 1liter of 10w40 and 300ml of 10w60,can someone tell me if it is good or bad?.i live in a tropical country
Now you have 10w-48.5 oil :) :D
You have zero to worry about, other than using 10 "winter" which I'd switch to 20, but that's me I want max eng life.
I have single cylinder bike ktm rc390...can I mix 10w40 with 10w50...? Already there is 10w40 7100 motul in my bike so can I topup with 10w50 ? Bcoz nly oil level has gone down but oil is good in condition
Yes you can mix them, and for topping off it's even better to use heavier because they thin out with use.
My car is toyota probox and i use one time 20w50 was that damaged my engine?
no
Yes
Hello i would like to know if it's good to mix oil 5w 30 with Mecarun P18 additif oil??? Thanks
Hi. Thank you for contacting me. I do, however, have to advise that you stick to the oil specification suggested by the manufacture of your engine. The reason for this if because if I suggest a particular oil for you to use, then you go ahead and use it, and it results in damage of your engine then this would be terrible for you and my liability would be in question. I hope you understand my point. Thanks again though. Craig
Ok...thanks Craig for your answer...i understand...thanks Alain best regards Rui
Sorry...thanks again best regards...Rui
i put 2 cycle oil on my lawn mower not paying attention until after it shut down realized i picked up the wrong oil it want start now what do i do now 😅
I personally would, first of all, remove the spark plug, then have someone press the OPC lever while you turn over the engine to see if it is seized or not. You might find it best to do this by tipping the mower back and turning the blade. Again, only do this with the spark plug removed. If it is not seized, then replace the oil with the correct oil and try starting engine. If the engine will not turn over, then it might be best to take it to a repair shop to be looked at by a professional. This is because it could be a whole host of things possibly wrong with it.
I hope this helped
Craig
Very nice
What will happen when we use 5w40 ?
Hi. Well that depends on what the questioning is exactly.
A 5W-40 will act like a 5 does when it is cold, and then when the engine reaches working temperature, it acts like a 40 does at that temperature. I hope this helps. Thanks , Craig
Can we use 5w40 instead of 5w30 in bikes during summers
In my opinion its vital to go with your bikes manufactures recommendation for the type of oil it requires. If I tell you to use a specific oil and then your bike gets damaged as a result then my liability is under question. Thats why i cant give you an answer to that. Sorry
@@rakeshkumarsingh5244 I don't have to worry about liability so I'd suggest a 20 "winter" at minimum and ~50 hot, so 20-50 is easy to find so that makes it easy. I'd use even thicker but you didn't specify what bike and how hot summer is.