Had to install flashing around an entire cabin due to misalignment with the foundation. This video saved my ass, all my corners turned out great! Thank-you!
This is by far the best explained video on how to do this -I have seen. Mainly because you marked what the metal and explained what each mark was and where it was going. I have to make short piece of drip edging and bend it at a 45 deg angle. Still trying to figure out how to do that.
Thank you so much man, save my time and couple of day, tomorrow I going to work on this, never Never done before but thanks to you I feel confidently to do it,..👏🏽👏🏽👍🏽
Nice video. I have a metal building on the property I just bought that for some idiotic reason was built without base flashing, which allows everything living to get in and out at will. I'm adding flashing now and was puzzled with how to do the outside corners.
I've come across your tutorial videos on my TH-cam, not that you're looking for tips, but your cuts could be a lot cleaner by not closing your snips all the way. If you notice every time that you fully close your snips they create a dimple from the tips of the snips. I was taught to never close my snips all the way doing metal trims. Even at the end of the cuts, I rarely ever will close my snips completely. Instead just close them most of the way and keep sliding them into the cut. Makes for a nice clean cut. Also if you don't have them already, a left and right pair of snips would make it to where you don't need a grinder. We can't use grinders on any metal trims or roofing because the sparks from the cutoff wheel will actually rust. Just a general rule I follow, but good video otherwise. I do my corners similarly.
Thanks for the response Blaine. Good feedback as I didn’t have any help from S/M expert or tin bender. I picked up this method through installing thousands of lf on a roof top in Seattle. Once I got a technique down I couldn’t wait to share hoping I could help at least one person out there.
Can you do a video on how to bend and outside corner drip flashing with no front vertical face, just a hem with like a 15 degree kick up on it? I'm trying to do it without cutting two separate pieces. It come down the wall , goes 90 out 1" and has a 1/2" hemmed kick.
You do need to get some offset snips, and watch out for all the dumb ones with the rivet or part of the jaw in the way of them being truly throatless. I like my crazy-deep Bessey ones, probably cut that upper span in one cut. Still looking for tricks for doing this with the stuff that's only bent to 45° each way.
..What would you put a drip edge shaped like that on?..gutter apron?...nope...up the gable?...nope....chimney?...nope. Nice technique though, clean work.
@@vanstiiicky9606 right on...I thought of a couple uses..deck ledger...or stucco weep screed...plus you can hide pipes and other things on older houses.
Hi Darryl, thanks for the comment. This application was for a belly band on a roof parapit. You can use this for any base of wall flashing or any trim that wraps the corner on a building that requires flashing protection on top.
Beautiful but here is a problem.... How can this be done when the ledger depth are different? I have 3x3 in drip edge with 3/16th inch gravel stop. Im flashing an outside corner of a deck with a wall. double rimjoist on side and single facia on front. So on front sideof deck is 2.5 inches deep and on the side of deck it is 1inch deep. As well, all excess material on the 3 inch drip edge is just 90° bend up to the wall. Is this possible to do as on piece bend or does in need to be done in 2 pieces?
Hi Shane, I would say 2” prices is your safest best with the two different dimensions. Just overlap the flashings by 6”-12” inches to ensure adequate protection. If you were to try to accomplish this with one piece of metal you would have to manipulate the smaller depth, creating an unaesthetic finish. Alternatively you could install a filler strip along the bottom edge to infill the gap on the bottom drip edge! I think 2 pieces is best though.
Had to install flashing around an entire cabin due to misalignment with the foundation. This video saved my ass, all my corners turned out great! Thank-you!
Very simple to follow. Thank you! Also love hearing the munchkins in the back and you weren't phased a bit
Literally saved me hours of work trying to figure this out with this! Thank you greatly!
This is by far the best explained video on how to do this -I have seen. Mainly because you marked what the metal and explained what each mark was and where it was going. I have to make short piece of drip edging and bend it at a 45 deg angle. Still trying to figure out how to do that.
Thank you Mark. I’m glad you found use of the video.
Great tutorial. Thanks for the detailed information and not using jargon that lay people wouldn't be familiar with. Good teacher.
Thx brother for explaining properly rather than just doing it all quick like. 👍
You are the man!! Thanks a ton for both of your videos on the inside and outside corners!!
You make good videos, simple, clear explanations. I hope you will make more.
Thank you for your feedback. This is much appreciated.
I followed this video exactly!!! Why am I the thickness of the overhang short!!!! What the heck
Awesome video. Thank you for the helpful tutorial 😃
Thank you so much man, save my time and couple of day, tomorrow I going to work on this, never Never done before but thanks to you I feel confidently to do it,..👏🏽👏🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the video ! Well explained and I’ve got all the corners done nicely now 👍
You’re very welcome. If you have any questions feel free to ask!
Great video, how to you manage the roofline on a slight angle from the house. A porch roof.
Good details Thanks for the video !
Nice video. I have a metal building on the property I just bought that for some idiotic reason was built without base flashing, which allows everything living to get in and out at will. I'm adding flashing now and was puzzled with how to do the outside corners.
Awesome explanation.
Nice work 🤘🏽
Life saver. Thank you.
Why did you snip the short edge ?
Thanks Ethan
I've come across your tutorial videos on my TH-cam, not that you're looking for tips, but your cuts could be a lot cleaner by not closing your snips all the way. If you notice every time that you fully close your snips they create a dimple from the tips of the snips. I was taught to never close my snips all the way doing metal trims. Even at the end of the cuts, I rarely ever will close my snips completely. Instead just close them most of the way and keep sliding them into the cut. Makes for a nice clean cut. Also if you don't have them already, a left and right pair of snips would make it to where you don't need a grinder. We can't use grinders on any metal trims or roofing because the sparks from the cutoff wheel will actually rust. Just a general rule I follow, but good video otherwise. I do my corners similarly.
Thanks for the response Blaine. Good feedback as I didn’t have any help from S/M expert or tin bender. I picked up this method through installing thousands of lf on a roof top in Seattle. Once I got a technique down I couldn’t wait to share hoping I could help at least one person out there.
Does this still apply for outside corners not at 90 degrees?
Can you do a video on how to bend and outside corner drip flashing with no front vertical face, just a hem with like a 15 degree kick up on it? I'm trying to do it without cutting two separate pieces. It come down the wall , goes 90 out 1" and has a 1/2" hemmed kick.
You do need to get some offset snips, and watch out for all the dumb ones with the rivet or part of the jaw in the way of them being truly throatless. I like my crazy-deep Bessey ones, probably cut that upper span in one cut. Still looking for tricks for doing this with the stuff that's only bent to 45° each way.
Definitely no need for the grinder. I wonder how long it took until he started noticing rust marks there.
This is pretty ok
he should have added on 1½ or whatever thickness the Z flashing is to his first mark.
but besides that, definitely best 'How to cut outside corners for Z flashing video I've come across
..What would you put a drip edge shaped like that on?..gutter apron?...nope...up the gable?...nope....chimney?...nope. Nice technique though, clean work.
Could be used for through wall flashings, that’s why I looked these videos up
Where floors meet, you don’t want your siding running all the way through incase of building shifts etc
@@vanstiiicky9606 right on...I thought of a couple uses..deck ledger...or stucco weep screed...plus you can hide pipes and other things on older houses.
Grinder? I will put that down to youth. Left, right and straight line snips are what you use. That bender is cool though.
Hi Darryl, thanks for the comment. This application was for a belly band on a roof parapit. You can use this for any base of wall flashing or any trim that wraps the corner on a building that requires flashing protection on top.
Dude needs to upgrade his cutting skill..no need for a grinder also
Beautiful but here is a problem....
How can this be done when the ledger depth are different?
I have 3x3 in drip edge with 3/16th inch gravel stop. Im flashing an outside corner of a deck with a wall. double rimjoist on side and single facia on front. So on front sideof deck is 2.5 inches deep and on the side of deck it is 1inch deep. As well, all excess material on the 3 inch drip edge is just 90° bend up to the wall.
Is this possible to do as on piece bend or does in need to be done in 2 pieces?
Hi Shane,
I would say 2” prices is your safest best with the two different dimensions. Just overlap the flashings by 6”-12” inches to ensure adequate protection. If you were to try to accomplish this with one piece of metal you would have to manipulate the smaller depth, creating an unaesthetic finish. Alternatively you could install a filler strip along the bottom edge to infill the gap on the bottom drip edge! I think 2 pieces is best though.