Only thing that I could say is leave half of the top end or atleast a few inches so you can put I bit of cutting on the end thats overlapped. Instead of having a straight seam on the corner that leads to the material behind it. Same reason why you leave a bit of material on the flat section.
@@cw7700 like, the two rectangles that he folds down, he goes and cuts them flush where the back is. He should leave one of the sides there and fold it around the corner so he has a nailing spot on both sides to keep the two sides tight against the wall. And he's able to some good caulking from the top of the flashing, down to where a pinhole would be, and under the one side of the flashing that's sitting. Caulking isn't exposed to uv rays so it'll definitely last 20+ years if it's a good quality caulking Don't get me wrong he did a great job but it's just the tiny details and reassurance with caulking that make it stand out compared to the thousands of other people who do it like that
@@cw7700 He's saying that you should have left an ear on the topmost vertical portion of your corner cut on the left side to fold over at a 90° underneath the right side when folded over providing an overlap instead of an open cut with nothing bridging the gap in between the two intersecting sides.
Ya gotta put a return on the apron upstands so you can caulk and seal. So water has no way of working through. Under flashing won’t stop the water after a couple months. All joins must be lapped by adjacent materials.
Upstand/stop end. Just leave extra 100mm on that plain of the flashing, score the underside, to allow it to bend, bend it, then cut to the required height. You leave a bit to go around the vertical leg too. To seal it all off. But my explanation would probably confuse you.
@@oldsharke2840 well this video is not in Poland, and can you send a link that shows in the rules and regulations that if you use sealant in Poland your not a roofer ? I'll wait for the link you provide, cheers
@@NightlifeReALIty it is compliant in the uk and until I get called back to see a water leak I’ll continue to do it like this, been ok for the last 20 years
This was the exact cut I needed and had no clue on how to do it, nor could I find it until I found your video! Thank you! Keep up the good work!
Only thing that I could say is leave half of the top end or atleast a few inches so you can put I bit of cutting on the end thats overlapped. Instead of having a straight seam on the corner that leads to the material behind it.
Same reason why you leave a bit of material on the flat section.
Sorry don’t understand what your saying here, can you tell me a time stamp in the video where I can see what you mean please
@@cw7700 like, the two rectangles that he folds down, he goes and cuts them flush where the back is. He should leave one of the sides there and fold it around the corner so he has a nailing spot on both sides to keep the two sides tight against the wall. And he's able to some good caulking from the top of the flashing, down to where a pinhole would be, and under the one side of the flashing that's sitting. Caulking isn't exposed to uv rays so it'll definitely last 20+ years if it's a good quality caulking
Don't get me wrong he did a great job but it's just the tiny details and reassurance with caulking that make it stand out compared to the thousands of other people who do it like that
@@cw7700 2:27 + flashing and the underlaymet need to be at last 15*
@@cw7700
He's saying that you should have left an ear on the topmost vertical portion of your corner cut on the left side to fold over at a 90° underneath the right side when folded over providing an overlap instead of an open cut with nothing bridging the gap in between the two intersecting sides.
Seamless work team! 🔥 👏🏻
best video ive seen on this so far. thanks for sharing!
Buen trabajo me gusta lo que haces vamos animos
Pretty slick work man!! Thank you
Ya gotta put a return on the apron upstands so you can caulk and seal. So water has no way of working through. Under flashing won’t stop the water after a couple months. All joins must be lapped by adjacent materials.
Water won’t get past a kingspan panel that sits on top of this
Thats some boss level measuring and cutting bro.
What tin snips are those?
Thank you mate, midwest snips
Can you do a 20° corner?
Very satisfying. The clip ended too soon
Good morning, how can I get one of 91/2x41/2? It's like that.
Where can I get the pen you're using to mark the metal with?
Tracer pencils mate, toolstation/screw fix/Amazon
I want to know how they make the outside corners where the diagonal joint is lifted up (about 1/2 inch) to create a damn on the corner - any idea?
I think you need to look at zinc roofing mate, check out TH-cam channel architectural sheet metal 101
a dog ear … common detail in hard metal roofing
Upstand/stop end.
Just leave extra 100mm on that plain of the flashing, score the underside, to allow it to bend, bend it, then cut to the required height.
You leave a bit to go around the vertical leg too. To seal it all off. But my explanation would probably confuse you.
How do you know your size for your 45 to be cut bro? From your edge where it stops to be bent ?
I think you need to measure the depth of the drip mate and come across that measurement from the centre line.
See the video at 40 seconds mate
Top man
Where's your hard hat?
No need, the guys a tank
Really?
thanks boss
Looks great for the internet hack job tho
Very bad its not water proof
There will be silicone under the mitre I was only showing the cuts
@@cw7700 in poland if you use silicone you are not roofer. You must make seam on corner
@@oldsharke2840 well this video is not in Poland, and can you send a link that shows in the rules and regulations that if you use sealant in Poland your not a roofer ? I'll wait for the link you provide, cheers
@@garethhancock8525non compliant even here in Australia.
@@NightlifeReALIty it is compliant in the uk and until I get called back to see a water leak I’ll continue to do it like this, been ok for the last 20 years