Hey Bro! Im the surron guy here This video was Great!!! I really like your test. Very informative. You Also saved me from a lot of rowing, lol, Im definitely curious to see what you do with this hangkai next. Its definitely the best bang for the buck when it comes to electric outboards
I've got the same motor. I commented on your earlier video showing this motor. Drill out the rivets on the 'number plate' on the top cover of the motor. Under it you will find a nice looking 'grill' that will only let the motor run cooler.
I've done these over-volting tests on ebikes. My experience is there is what I would call a "soft cutoff" on max operating voltage. That is, a max voltage where you may be able to get it to perform under certain loads and/or conditions but fails in others. For example, I can get my son's e motorcycle to perform well at 48-52V with the OEM 36V motor and controller. At or above 53V, it will run but cuts-out randomly when pushed hard, just like what you are seeing. I have an an adjustable charger that I can set cutoff voltage at 52V. So now I can use a 48V lithium pack with great reliability as it never hits the soft-cutoff. My son has been riding it constantly like this for two years straight. Anyway, thanks for doing this video. You are encouraging me replace my 12V Minnkota trolling motor with something like the Hangkai.
A couple tips ... When using your electronic tach, find a smooth location like the nose cone to put your tape on. You were picking up on each of the three blades so 12,000 RPM was actually 4,000 RPM (Divide by three). I know this because the prop and the motor would explode well before 12,000 RPM. The spare set of connections on the controller are for programming. A good source of controller information can be found on partsforscooters (not affiliated). Go to the controller section, click on wiring for a controller similar to yours and it will explain all the functions your boat motor manufacturer doesn't want you to know. Retest your prop RPM and leave the results below, I'm curious since I don't actually know how much gear reduction is in the outdrive.
From the look of it the boat isn’t planing so you may find you’ll reach a plateau on speed until it gets up on the plane. You probably already know this just want to mention it in case - interesting work 👍
Awesome test. I have the same motor and will be interested in any upgrades you make to it. Can it be adapted to a larger propeller or one with more pitch? Changing the prop will probably be important in using any extra power you get efficiently without over revving or cavitation.
I suggest you use 1500 to 1800 watts controller sir...thats what I do here in Borongan City , Philippines ... before I used multicab or pick up truck to transport my roll up shutters traveling 400 kilometers ( plus), but now I use my upgraded electric/Solar trike...it carries up to 650 kilograms load
You'll likely need a different prop to get the full value of any power upgrades. I believe that one will reach a max thrust with diminishing returns at higher rpms. Be really cool to take the actual motor out of a Mercury 9.9hp and swap with a E&Co and better controller like you mentioned.
@@radeonDEUS let’s slow down with all the ideas before my wallet drains out 😂 I have been looking at 9.9’s though.. but I’ll likely keep that as is. This is just a fun experiment for me
Hey mate Thanks for sharing. I have some questions if I may. Is this a freshwater lake you're using? I wonder how it would hold up in the salt. Have you opened it to see if it's well greased, sealed etc. That prop doesn't look very well balanced, i wonder if a better quality prop may help? Lastly, is it very loud, always hard to tell in a vid ✌🏼from 🇦🇺
Hey, I thought you looked familiar. I'm a proud owner of a 2019 Subaru Crosstrek and I've seen your other channel and really liked your Crosstrek videos 😎 I'm a kayak angler and have a 12v 100ah lithium battery setup running a brushless trolling motor. I get 5 to 6mph depending on conditions. Inspired to see what speeds this motor would get on my kayak setup, thanks for all your insightful and inspiring videos brother 😎
@@mototechryan5032 LOL yeah this is actually my main channel. Thank you. That’s awesome speed for a 12V unit. I currently have this motor apart, seeing if I can jam some of my higher power electric bike internals into it. I want at least 10 MPh 😂
I'm guessing my total weight with me, my kayak, and my fishing gear...is around 260lbs. So my 65lb brushless trolling motor does pretty good. I need to get hard data on run times with my setup, but I never worry about running out of battery. Please keep the videos coming, I'm really inspired to to get into higher voltage setups 😎
when i put a higher voltage battery in my impact wrench the issue i had wasnt overheating the controller, it was actually over current protection (heat also causes an increase in current) not that it matters if your replacing the controller, but theoretically you could remove the current sensing resistor if that was the issue
Hmm if it was an over current protection, it should have cut the power immediately when I initially started using it. It just ran worse and worse as it generated heat. I’ll look into it more, find a solution, and post an update. Appreciate your input
E = I x R. E is voltage. You increase voltage with the same resistance (R) and current (I) goes up. Current causes heat. The heat may change the resistance a little affecting current somewhat but the overall increase in current is caused by the increase in voltage.
Most overcurrent protection is using thermal overloads which basically open on high heat stopping power to the motor. Some reset automatically after temperature drops and some have to be reset manually or electronically.
These Hangkai motors are awesome! But overheating is the main issue here. I plan to add watercooling to my Hangkai. I am curious how far you can take this with overvolting the motor.
The 2 orange wires is probably equal to the white learning wires on most Chinese controllers. So it's probably reverse polarity. Put water blocks in things you want to cool. You can buy Fardrivers with them already installed.
Do you know the difference in the two options you have linked for sale on Amazon? I notice on both eBay and Amazon they have what appears to be the same motor but one is around 2-$250 and one is $265-$400. The only difference I can tell is in the pictures the throttle grip is rubber on the cheaper one and shiny metal on the higher priced one. Thank you. These videos were a great help for my project boat.
Cant wait for more videos reguarding this outboard, if you do decide to make another video, can you please go in detail about everything in the cowl, im assuming you will reace the electric motor, can you video that process? Im looking into getting one and want to see how it would be done, many thanks!!!
Can u make a video on how to upgrade this motor step by step when u do it please. I'm going to buy this motor and want to upgrade it, but I know nothing about electrical components lol
You should have tried 52 or 60V before. I was running my "up to 6S" Mamba Monster II ESC also with 8S cells, no problem just the fan soldered to permanent 12V and it was running cool enough. After a while i tried 10 and 12S.... at 10S it still worked, but 12S was a near instant capacitor blow up.
@@harrison00xXx I tried this on 52V prior to this. I just don’t have a 60V battery laying around 🤷🏾♂️. It’s a simple experiment before I pull the controller and motor out.
@@PatOutdoors Well i talked about my experience with an older RC Car (Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless, literally a MONSTER by its performance longer ago) ESC. from 24V to 30V so from 6S to 8S was just fine, but 10S, so 36V was already hot for the Mosfets and smelly (probably the caps over its rated voltage). 12S, so about 44V were ofc too much for a ESC rated for 25V. But i also have a Scooter with a 48V controller and 1000W motor which accepted 60V battery, tho it grilled itself pretty quick after going a bit uphill too fast. The motor tho was fine, as long you dont have too much current and the windings or their coating doesnt melt/burn the controller typically fails before the motor. Continous load may be a different story. ESCs can handle longer continous load better than the motor, while the motor can accept a lot of peak power in short term easily. Since its for water... i guess cooling isnt the issue on either the ESC or the motor?
@@PatOutdoors On my daily/better E-Scooter i also run a aftermarket VESC based controller. The Scooter, a Vsett10+ has 60V 1400W rated motors (stock 2x35A ESC) and they are delivering with the 2x100A ESC set to 45A phase current about 2000W per motor continous, no problems so far except the original 60V 25Ah battery is on its limits with this power draw (at least 8C discharge, not counting the current spikes) But its also nearly impossible beside very dangerous to run this thing for more than 2 minutes full throttle going 80-90 km/h, so i dont run into any overheating or motor damaging things anyways despite the tuning/upgrades unless i have longer trips in hot environment.
a small pump, tubing, and a CPU cooler or cooling plate would provide water cooling to the controller and be much more effective than a fan. just run it on a step down converter at 12v.
If anyone is replicating results the rpm will be different based on blade count. Unless he did the math or that unit is programmed to ignore every 2nd count you'd divide by 3 just fyi. Laser tachs just measure interruptions.
From my experience, you get about 4 miles per every 20AH size battery running full throttle the whole time. So you would get about 20 miles of range if you had a huge 48V 100AH battery.
Only one mph difference between this setup and the 48v. I would stick with the 48v. On the flip side, what would it do with 24v? I would love to get one but you’re looking at $1000 for batteries.
Great video! The prop RPM test was a nail-biter. Please measure from the other side next time. Also, eye protection. The clearance between the prop and cavitation plate is near zero (mine was touching out-of-the-box). The prop is plastic. The slop is immense. It's a recipe for a plastic grenade in your face if the cotter pin tweaks even just a little.
Nice video. EV technology is great! I've enjoyed having a high power 75hp stealth electric outboard on my 17' bow rider runabout. Excellent choice for the type of lake boating we enjoy. We can go over 20 miles on one charge. The top speed is 27 MPH and the last time out, we pulled the raft just for fun. Go Electric! See video at: mark's gas to electric boat conversion.
Hi could you redo the rpm measuring. Since rpm tester works on reflection changes I belive that your valiues are trippled. Try on solid tip of the propeller with black tape square please. Interested. Thanks
@@paveldvorak200 I just did that as a comparison between 52V and 72V, which is approximately 30% difference in RPM reading. I’m suspecting it would looks something like 3000 RPM vs 3900 RPM if I were to redo it. I’ll try it again once I upgrade the motor and controller.
@@PatOutdoors Nice, thanks for explaining your view. I'm interested because the rpm seems way higher than motors on e-scooters which is my free time hobby. Thanks again
Driving a motor rated for 48v with a battery twice as big will burn out the windings as well as the controller. Same goes if you drive a motor with not enough voltage. In that case it will try to draw more amperage which causes the same result. Give it what its rated for. I cant tell you how many electric motors i have had to replace because of a wrong feed. I dont care if its ac or dc. A well pump or sprinkler system , or in this case a boat motor. Electric motors all do the same thing.
Yeah 60v no problem but caps are likely 75v inside and full charged 72v battery is over 80v, when u close throttle the back emf spike kills the controller
3:40 Are you sure 12,000rpm is correct? I have the same Laser RPM tester, and I'm sure you'll find that since there is a non reflective gap between each of the three blades, that the light being returned peaks from 'background radiated light' from the edge of each of the three blades, so your true RPM is likely closer to 4000RPM (3x4000=12000), and 4000 is more consistant with the design of the motor. Place a reflective 'dot' below the blades, on the 'cone' of the prop, and take your reading from that location, as this will give you a more reliable reading since the device records the highest returned rad laser light, not the more consistant white of the reflection from surrounding laser light that will be reflexted back by the rest of the cone.
@@maffysdad it could be reading a bit off. I was also questioning it myself. Just a matter of comparison between the two voltage with the same test. 52V is is approximately 70% of the voltage of 72V, which is about the same 30% difference is RPM reading. I think no matter how much I increase the power or RPM on this outboard, it will result in diminishing returns due to the design of the prop.
@@dan4age it’s not. It’s really 4500 RPM (just remeasured.) This is just to show the difference in RPM between the two voltages. Same difference percentage wise..
That doesnt sound like 12,000 rpm to me, try putting a piece of reflective tape on 1 of the blades as I think it might be counting each blade as an rpm but I aint no rpm lazerdoodle expert
There is a LOT that goes into outboard and prop design. Simply speeding up the prop will cause cavitation around the propeller. This will cause the propeller to spin too fast and the imploding bubbles will destroy the propeller. You will probably need to increase the pitch of the propeller to increase speed and prevent the motor amping out. But, I only know enough to know that I don't know enough.
@@edtheplumber5307 yeah I actually swapped over to an aluminum propeller recently for added reliability. But you’re right, I have to play with the pitch also. I’m in the middle of swapping out the motor and controller already though..
not controller it motor safey switch when motor get too hot it sent data to controller cut off safey power so it turn off on you once it cool down it safey overheat switch avoid motor burn out and if you take look at switch on motor u wll noticed it two wire and heat up switch it kill power to motor if you have water cooling motor you never have to worry about this issues at all but if you modicaty cover more air flow may last you longer keeping motor cooled down i dont own one but i worked on one for my customer plus have cut open top of cover and make vent down into motor so it last longer
@@PatOutdoors mt customer still running off 48v dc battery he have same issues as you have it cut off when get too hot not enough cooling just give you orher way fix overheat issues so wont happen again if it was control it would been smoking alot n barely catch on fire but no smoke so not controlled it motors there other trips you can do is incled amp to motor so u can change impeller pit for less rpm more flow i believe there is youtube done this test called rctestflight TH-cam channel
Hey Bro! Im the surron guy here
This video was Great!!! I really like your test. Very informative. You Also saved me from a lot of rowing, lol, Im definitely curious to see what you do with this hangkai next. Its definitely the best bang for the buck when it comes to electric outboards
LOL more to come sir
I've got the same motor.
I commented on your earlier video showing this motor.
Drill out the rivets on the 'number plate' on the top cover of the motor.
Under it you will find a nice looking 'grill' that will only let the motor run cooler.
@@garygerard4290 Thanks for the tip!
I've done these over-volting tests on ebikes. My experience is there is what I would call a "soft cutoff" on max operating voltage. That is, a max voltage where you may be able to get it to perform under certain loads and/or conditions but fails in others. For example, I can get my son's e motorcycle to perform well at 48-52V with the OEM 36V motor and controller. At or above 53V, it will run but cuts-out randomly when pushed hard, just like what you are seeing. I have an an adjustable charger that I can set cutoff voltage at 52V. So now I can use a 48V lithium pack with great reliability as it never hits the soft-cutoff. My son has been riding it constantly like this for two years straight. Anyway, thanks for doing this video. You are encouraging me replace my 12V Minnkota trolling motor with something like the Hangkai.
A couple tips ... When using your electronic tach, find a smooth location like the nose cone to put your tape on. You were picking up on each of the three blades so 12,000 RPM was actually 4,000 RPM (Divide by three). I know this because the prop and the motor would explode well before 12,000 RPM.
The spare set of connections on the controller are for programming.
A good source of controller information can be found on partsforscooters (not affiliated). Go to the controller section, click on wiring for a controller similar to yours and it will explain all the functions your boat motor manufacturer doesn't want you to know.
Retest your prop RPM and leave the results below, I'm curious since I don't actually know how much gear reduction is in the outdrive.
Nice video, have you checked if the gear case has oil? It sounds very crunchy
Before you upgrade the motor, I would check the drive shaft and lower gears and make sure they are strong enough for the upgrade.
@@robjohnston8632 good suggestion, will do
Amazon sells a 10hp 48v version of that same outboard. It would probably work great with that battery.
Can you Link the motor
Still designed for 48 volts. Controller may still overheat.
Love the test and upgrades on this motor 😂cant wait to see the other upgrades
From the look of it the boat isn’t planing so you may find you’ll reach a plateau on speed until it gets up on the plane. You probably already know this just want to mention it in case - interesting work 👍
Awesome test. I have the same motor and will be interested in any upgrades you make to it. Can it be adapted to a larger propeller or one with more pitch? Changing the prop will probably be important in using any extra power you get efficiently without over revving or cavitation.
I suggest you use 1500 to 1800 watts controller sir...thats what I do here in Borongan City , Philippines ... before I used multicab or pick up truck to transport my roll up shutters traveling 400 kilometers ( plus), but now I use my upgraded electric/Solar trike...it carries up to 650 kilograms load
i wonder if a different prop would help at this point. you also have to look at trim level and motor height!
You'll likely need a different prop to get the full value of any power upgrades. I believe that one will reach a max thrust with diminishing returns at higher rpms. Be really cool to take the actual motor out of a Mercury 9.9hp and swap with a E&Co and better controller like you mentioned.
@@radeonDEUS let’s slow down with all the ideas before my wallet drains out 😂 I have been looking at 9.9’s though.. but I’ll likely keep that as is. This is just a fun experiment for me
I'm not sure if u did, but I have to put gear oil in the lower unit, pull of prop, two screws and it opens up, fill half way
Good call. Did that make a difference?
Great video and are you gonna upgrade the controller and motor on this?
Yes I am! Just wanted to see the limitations of the factory components first. I also gotta measure everything to see what I can fit in the housing
Hey mate
Thanks for sharing.
I have some questions if I may.
Is this a freshwater lake you're using? I wonder how it would hold up in the salt.
Have you opened it to see if it's well greased, sealed etc.
That prop doesn't look very well balanced, i wonder if a better quality prop may help?
Lastly, is it very loud, always hard to tell in a vid
✌🏼from 🇦🇺
Hey, I thought you looked familiar. I'm a proud owner of a 2019 Subaru Crosstrek and I've seen your other channel and really liked your Crosstrek videos 😎
I'm a kayak angler and have a 12v 100ah lithium battery setup running a brushless trolling motor. I get 5 to 6mph depending on conditions.
Inspired to see what speeds this motor would get on my kayak setup, thanks for all your insightful and inspiring videos brother 😎
@@mototechryan5032 LOL yeah this is actually my main channel. Thank you. That’s awesome speed for a 12V unit. I currently have this motor apart, seeing if I can jam some of my higher power electric bike internals into it. I want at least 10 MPh 😂
I'm guessing my total weight with me, my kayak, and my fishing gear...is around 260lbs. So my 65lb brushless trolling motor does pretty good. I need to get hard data on run times with my setup, but I never worry about running out of battery.
Please keep the videos coming, I'm really inspired to to get into higher voltage setups 😎
Great video thank you. Would this motor work with 24 volts from the battery instead of 48?
@@thomas_didymus it unfortunately will not
@@PatOutdoorson the website it actually does say 24/48v and I’ve seen videos i do believe it will work at 24v
. Did you ever hook up your 60v Sur Ron battery to see how it lasts? I have a Sur Ron right now and wondering if 60v will hold up with the 48v model
These are pretty interesting motors - I am surprised at what you were able to push through there!
those flipsky motors look pretty powerful from what ive seen
when i put a higher voltage battery in my impact wrench the issue i had wasnt overheating the controller, it was actually over current protection (heat also causes an increase in current) not that it matters if your replacing the controller, but theoretically you could remove the current sensing resistor if that was the issue
Hmm if it was an over current protection, it should have cut the power immediately when I initially started using it. It just ran worse and worse as it generated heat. I’ll look into it more, find a solution, and post an update. Appreciate your input
E = I x R. E is voltage. You increase voltage with the same resistance (R) and current (I) goes up. Current causes heat. The heat may change the resistance a little affecting current somewhat but the overall increase in current is caused by the increase in voltage.
Most overcurrent protection is using thermal overloads which basically open on high heat stopping power to the motor. Some reset automatically after temperature drops and some have to be reset manually or electronically.
5:10 ""And the controller seems to be..................". haha, Perfect timing.
These Hangkai motors are awesome! But overheating is the main issue here. I plan to add watercooling to my Hangkai. I am curious how far you can take this with overvolting the motor.
The 2 orange wires is probably equal to the white learning wires on most Chinese controllers. So it's probably reverse polarity.
Put water blocks in things you want to cool. You can buy Fardrivers with them already installed.
Do you know the difference in the two options you have linked for sale on Amazon? I notice on both eBay and Amazon they have what appears to be the same motor but one is around 2-$250 and one is $265-$400.
The only difference I can tell is in the pictures the throttle grip is rubber on the cheaper one and shiny metal on the higher priced one.
Thank you. These videos were a great help for my project boat.
Cant wait for more videos reguarding this outboard, if you do decide to make another video, can you please go in detail about everything in the cowl, im assuming you will reace the electric motor, can you video that process? Im looking into getting one and want to see how it would be done, many thanks!!!
non-flexy prop and some trim! bottom end seems like it'll be a bottle neck though.
Funny you mentioned it. I just finished mounting an aluminum prop on it and doing some testing shortly with a huge 100ah battery
Loving these boat videos!
Heat sink and water cool the controller and a pump to run the cold water to the water block heat sink. That would work much better.
You might want to look into a way to trim the motor. You'd be surprised how much extra speed you can get when you angle the motor properly.
You should have brought both batteries to do a comparasion.
cant wait to see more on the rawrr mantis x, i know there are some problems with the controller
The controller is currently in California getting reprogrammed. Should be seeing a lot more content on that by next week!
Can u make a video on how to upgrade this motor step by step when u do it please. I'm going to buy this motor and want to upgrade it, but I know nothing about electrical components lol
@@VinniesFishing1 sure!
You should have tried 52 or 60V before.
I was running my "up to 6S" Mamba Monster II ESC also with 8S cells, no problem just the fan soldered to permanent 12V and it was running cool enough.
After a while i tried 10 and 12S.... at 10S it still worked, but 12S was a near instant capacitor blow up.
@@harrison00xXx I tried this on 52V prior to this. I just don’t have a 60V battery laying around 🤷🏾♂️. It’s a simple experiment before I pull the controller and motor out.
@@harrison00xXx Are you still running to original 1200W motor? How long have you been running it for and what size battery are you using?
@@PatOutdoors Well i talked about my experience with an older RC Car (Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless, literally a MONSTER by its performance longer ago) ESC.
from 24V to 30V so from 6S to 8S was just fine, but 10S, so 36V was already hot for the Mosfets and smelly (probably the caps over its rated voltage). 12S, so about 44V were ofc too much for a ESC rated for 25V.
But i also have a Scooter with a 48V controller and 1000W motor which accepted 60V battery, tho it grilled itself pretty quick after going a bit uphill too fast.
The motor tho was fine, as long you dont have too much current and the windings or their coating doesnt melt/burn the controller typically fails before the motor. Continous load may be a different story.
ESCs can handle longer continous load better than the motor, while the motor can accept a lot of peak power in short term easily.
Since its for water... i guess cooling isnt the issue on either the ESC or the motor?
@@PatOutdoors On my daily/better E-Scooter i also run a aftermarket VESC based controller.
The Scooter, a Vsett10+ has 60V 1400W rated motors (stock 2x35A ESC) and they are delivering with the 2x100A ESC set to 45A phase current about 2000W per motor continous, no problems so far except the original 60V 25Ah battery is on its limits with this power draw (at least 8C discharge, not counting the current spikes)
But its also nearly impossible beside very dangerous to run this thing for more than 2 minutes full throttle going 80-90 km/h, so i dont run into any overheating or motor damaging things anyways despite the tuning/upgrades unless i have longer trips in hot environment.
a small pump, tubing, and a CPU cooler or cooling plate would provide water cooling to the controller and be much more effective than a fan. just run it on a step down converter at 12v.
@@chrisstinson2536 I’ll start drafting the plan! Thanks for the idea
It might push "V" (not deep "V") hull a bit faster. Those Jon boats just seem to plough through the water.
If anyone is replicating results the rpm will be different based on blade count. Unless he did the math or that unit is programmed to ignore every 2nd count you'd divide by 3 just fyi. Laser tachs just measure interruptions.
Water cooling the motor and controller would be a very easy way to keep it cool.
Ok yeah I’ve been looking into doing this. Would I just have a pump mounting in the housing and run a hose near the prop?
What kind of run times are you getting? Cheers
From my experience, you get about 4 miles per every 20AH size battery running full throttle the whole time. So you would get about 20 miles of range if you had a huge 48V 100AH battery.
@@PatOutdoors thank you! New Sub here!
Good job bro
Do a twin electric Hangkai outboard speed test 😉
you remembered to put gear oil in right? it does not sound healthy on that lower end
I just pulled the prop and cover off the lower unit to inspect. This electric one came prefilled with gear oil
Only one mph difference between this setup and the 48v. I would stick with the 48v. On the flip side, what would it do with 24v? I would love to get one but you’re looking at $1000 for batteries.
@@dougaranda6187 I think it has a lot to do with cavitation. Limitations with the stock prop
Remember me when your famous
Great video! The prop RPM test was a nail-biter. Please measure from the other side next time. Also, eye protection. The clearance between the prop and cavitation plate is near zero (mine was touching out-of-the-box). The prop is plastic. The slop is immense. It's a recipe for a plastic grenade in your face if the cotter pin tweaks even just a little.
Does anyone make a water cooling jacket for a my1020?
Nice video. EV technology is great! I've enjoyed having a high power 75hp stealth electric outboard on my 17' bow rider runabout. Excellent choice for the type of lake boating we enjoy. We can go over 20 miles on one charge. The top speed is 27 MPH and the last time out, we pulled the raft just for fun. Go Electric! See video at: mark's gas to electric boat conversion.
That was fun . Maybe its time for a prop upgrade 😀
I think the prop is actually maxed out at this point.. I'm not sure if I can fit a larger one though
Hi could you redo the rpm measuring. Since rpm tester works on reflection changes I belive that your valiues are trippled. Try on solid tip of the propeller with black tape square please. Interested. Thanks
@@paveldvorak200 I just did that as a comparison between 52V and 72V, which is approximately 30% difference in RPM reading. I’m suspecting it would looks something like 3000 RPM vs 3900 RPM if I were to redo it. I’ll try it again once I upgrade the motor and controller.
@@PatOutdoors Nice, thanks for explaining your view.
I'm interested because the rpm seems way higher than motors on e-scooters which is my free time hobby.
Thanks again
@@paveldvorak200 Well E-Scooters and Electric Dirt Bikes is also my hobby so that's why I got interested in this option vs gas outboard lol
Since you are already in the water use WATER COOLING! no radiator or reservoir tank required cool the motor and controller.
@@richardkonsky right, just need to run a pump, hoses, and figure out attaching a heat sink to the controller and motor.
Driving a motor rated for 48v with a battery twice as big will burn out the windings as well as the controller. Same goes if you drive a motor with not enough voltage. In that case it will try to draw more amperage which causes the same result. Give it what its rated for. I cant tell you how many electric motors i have had to replace because of a wrong feed. I dont care if its ac or dc. A well pump or sprinkler system , or in this case a boat motor. Electric motors all do the same thing.
This is why you always keep the trolling motor onboard
Lesson learned
Yeah 60v no problem but caps are likely 75v inside and full charged 72v battery is over 80v, when u close throttle the back emf spike kills the controller
Did you try it by yourself in the boat?
Not yet, I didn’t want to make any changes vs the previous test
@@PatOutdoors got it. I think you could have gotten it up to planing them though. Probably 12 mph
3:40 Are you sure 12,000rpm is correct? I have the same Laser RPM tester, and I'm sure you'll find that since there is a non reflective gap between each of the three blades, that the light being returned peaks from 'background radiated light' from the edge of each of the three blades, so your true RPM is likely closer to 4000RPM (3x4000=12000), and 4000 is more consistant with the design of the motor. Place a reflective 'dot' below the blades, on the 'cone' of the prop, and take your reading from that location, as this will give you a more reliable reading since the device records the highest returned rad laser light, not the more consistant white of the reflection from surrounding laser light that will be reflexted back by the rest of the cone.
@@maffysdad it could be reading a bit off. I was also questioning it myself. Just a matter of comparison between the two voltage with the same test. 52V is is approximately 70% of the voltage of 72V, which is about the same 30% difference is RPM reading. I think no matter how much I increase the power or RPM on this outboard, it will result in diminishing returns due to the design of the prop.
Considering the OEM rpm is 3000 there's no way that prop is doing 12,000rpm
@@dan4age it’s not. It’s really 4500 RPM (just remeasured.) This is just to show the difference in RPM between the two voltages. Same difference percentage wise..
Analog boating is the worst if you aren't ready for it
Analog boating 😂 specially when the left and right oars are different and you’re on a timeline
water jacket to cool fed by lake water?
72v nominal means 84v fully charged, thats way 2 mutch for that controller lol try that motor on a 60v nominal that wil have 71v on full charge
@@crazywacky LOL I know.. I just did it to see what would happen 🤷🏾♂️ Now we all know!
Just use 2 motors and have a dual system.
That doesnt sound like 12,000 rpm to me, try putting a piece of reflective tape on 1 of the blades as I think it might be counting each blade as an rpm but I aint no rpm lazerdoodle expert
@@TheDigitalguyy it’s not, about 4500 RPM. I remeasured at a later time but the difference between RPM and voltage is the same with both tests
Put a ebmx 9000 on it!
SurRon battery with a stock SurRon controller…..is what he used.
Also….you could possibly run at 1/2 throttle until the voltage drops.
@@turbosupra2jzdragracingtob249 how would you use a surron controller on a sensor less motor? There’s only phase wires on this one
There is a LOT that goes into outboard and prop design. Simply speeding up the prop will cause cavitation around the propeller. This will cause the propeller to spin too fast and the imploding bubbles will destroy the propeller. You will probably need to increase the pitch of the propeller to increase speed and prevent the motor amping out. But, I only know enough to know that I don't know enough.
@@edtheplumber5307 yeah I actually swapped over to an aluminum propeller recently for added reliability. But you’re right, I have to play with the pitch also. I’m in the middle of swapping out the motor and controller already though..
How to fry your controller 101
Simply just an experiment.. controller was being replaced anyway
Vesc more RPMs better prop cooling 72v all day
Youre not supposed to rev it out of the water
not controller it motor safey switch when motor get too hot it sent data to controller cut off safey power so it turn off on you once it cool down it safey overheat switch avoid motor burn out and if you take look at switch on motor u wll noticed it two wire and heat up switch it kill power to motor
if you have water cooling motor you never have to worry about this issues at all but if you modicaty cover more air flow may last you longer keeping motor cooled down
i dont own one but i worked on one for my customer plus have cut open top of cover and make vent down into motor so it last longer
@@kittyztigerz appreciate the input! Give me ideas..
@@PatOutdoors mt customer still running off 48v dc battery he have same issues as you have it cut off when get too hot not enough cooling just give you orher way fix overheat issues so wont happen again
if it was control it would been smoking alot n barely catch on fire but no smoke so not controlled it motors
there other trips you can do is incled amp to motor so u can change impeller pit for less rpm more flow
i believe there is youtube done this test called rctestflight TH-cam channel
299 dolar ????????????
at those rpms i dont think putting your face near a plastic prop is a good call, that that lets go and youll have a nice scar
looks like a plastic prop, the higher RPM will distort the pitch of the prop, and may actually reduce speed
I just swapped out the prop to an aluminum one with slightly more surface area. Hopefully it runs more efficiently