Items in this video on Amazon: 10AN Oil cooling radiator #ad amzn.to/4eos4qD 10AN to 5/8 barb 90 #ad amzn.to/3Z16uE2 5/8 barb to 5/8 barb #ad amzn.to/4g96AzG 300 PSI 5/8 hose #ad amzn.to/4g8LfWN 2 inch crescent wrench ( I got this wrench for the track locking nut, but works good for hydraulic fittings too ) #ad amzn.to/3AIo5qi 5/8 hose clamp #ad amzn.to/4dMve7m
Great series of videos, thanks. I copied your installation on my FF15 but made one small change. Instead of splicing into the existing hydraulic lines, I cut the clamp shells off the original fittings and reused them with the new hose. This eliminated the hose splicing. It seems to have worked well. Thanks!
@@ja4476 The controls are very different between the two machines. The major difference is F15 has pilot controls & dual pump where the FF12 does not. The FF15 weighs a couple hundred pounds more than the FF12. There are other differences but they are more cosmetic than anything else.
@@bradkahler Thanks for your answer, really appreciated..... Did you have some of the problems Madsientist was talking about ? I guess if I buy it I'll have to make the modification in this video to avoid overheating...... The one I found locally is about $6000(+tx).... I might buy it next week so I would have all winter to make the modofication...
@@ja4476 Overheating is a problem for pretty much all of the Chinese mini excavators. Overheating boils the gas and causes the hydraulic fluid to get excessively hot. I've added the oil cooler and fan to my FF15 pretty much the way Mad Scientist did. The FF15 isn't like the FF12 inside so I had to do things my own way but the gist of it is I followed his road map. The major changes to my FF15 are hydraulic oil cooler and fan, put a gas tank in front of the hydraulic tank and removed the original tank, changed all the fluids to good quality stuff and added a nice muffler blanket to the muffler along with changing the original tail pipe to a better style that seals the exhaust outlet properly. I've also added about 180 lbs of counter weight that made a big difference in driving and lifting. If you do buy an FF15 or 12 there is an FF Industrial owners group on Facebook.
Bro, im glad to have found your channel! I just purchased my KYMRON YH20D. Works great, but I would not mind adding a fan and cooler. Thanks for the videos🫡
Every bit of heat you can remove from the hydraulics and engine help extend the life of the machine, the oil will have more viscosity and the seals will not harden and deteriorate as quickly. I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
@madscientisthut Thanks! I've found that Amazon has the Hook Ripper for a good price. Ebay has really good deals as well. For the rust, I found a product called Fluid Film & Fluid Film Black. I sprayed everywhere. Worked like a charm.
Thanks, I was going for the most economical way to add an oil cooler that I could get to work , IE.. no custom hoses or complex adapters to figure out. I currently have put on about 36 hours of pretty hard work on the machine since adding the cooler with no leaks and the cooler works great . I did end up moving my fan thermal switch to a hotter area near the oil filter to get the fan to turn on faster.
I have two plans, the first is to try a cheap fuel pump, hopefully this one works. The second is to try a science trick and use two check valves at each oil port one facing in the other facing out. The cylinder down stroke should create small amount of pressure in the crankcase that will pressurize the the hoses cooler and filter, the check valve the the oil entered should close on the up stroke. The up stroke should create a small amount of vacuum in the crankcase then pull the oil through the other check valve. The only thing with the second method is I am not sure how much pressure differential in the crankcase occurs between up and down stroke, I would need maybe 4-5 psi pulses to operate the check valves and to gain the 14-16 inches of height. Edit: replaced the word cylinder with crankcase and filled in a few missing bits..
The design is minimal, they do work and do do what you need. They are not designed for long work periods as they have neglected to include more heat management, but I think their main goal is to minimize cost.
Items in this video on Amazon:
10AN Oil cooling radiator #ad amzn.to/4eos4qD
10AN to 5/8 barb 90 #ad amzn.to/3Z16uE2
5/8 barb to 5/8 barb #ad amzn.to/4g96AzG
300 PSI 5/8 hose #ad amzn.to/4g8LfWN
2 inch crescent wrench ( I got this wrench for the track locking nut, but works good for hydraulic fittings too ) #ad amzn.to/3AIo5qi
5/8 hose clamp #ad amzn.to/4dMve7m
Great way to show us how to do it, liked.
Great series of videos, thanks. I copied your installation on my FF15 but made one small change. Instead of splicing into the existing hydraulic lines, I cut the clamp shells off the original fittings and reused them with the new hose. This eliminated the hose splicing. It seems to have worked well. Thanks!
Thank you. That is a good idea, I did not think about cutting the clamp shells.
I'm might buy a FF15, is there a big difference with the FF12 ?!
@@ja4476 The controls are very different between the two machines. The major difference is F15 has pilot controls & dual pump where the FF12 does not. The FF15 weighs a couple hundred pounds more than the FF12. There are other differences but they are more cosmetic than anything else.
@@bradkahler Thanks for your answer, really appreciated..... Did you have some of the problems Madsientist was talking about ? I guess if I buy it I'll have to make the modification in this video to avoid overheating...... The one I found locally is about $6000(+tx).... I might buy it next week so I would have all winter to make the modofication...
@@ja4476 Overheating is a problem for pretty much all of the Chinese mini excavators. Overheating boils the gas and causes the hydraulic fluid to get excessively hot. I've added the oil cooler and fan to my FF15 pretty much the way Mad Scientist did. The FF15 isn't like the FF12 inside so I had to do things my own way but the gist of it is I followed his road map. The major changes to my FF15 are hydraulic oil cooler and fan, put a gas tank in front of the hydraulic tank and removed the original tank, changed all the fluids to good quality stuff and added a nice muffler blanket to the muffler along with changing the original tail pipe to a better style that seals the exhaust outlet properly. I've also added about 180 lbs of counter weight that made a big difference in driving and lifting. If you do buy an FF15 or 12 there is an FF Industrial owners group on Facebook.
good idea. i will try your system.
Excellent video!
@@tomd864 thank you
Bro, im glad to have found your channel! I just purchased my KYMRON YH20D. Works great, but I would not mind adding a fan and cooler. Thanks for the videos🫡
Every bit of heat you can remove from the hydraulics and engine help extend the life of the machine, the oil will have more viscosity and the seals will not harden and deteriorate as quickly. I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
I was just checking out the yh20d, very nice looking machine with a nice Kubota diesel. Lots of nice upgrades from the 1.2 ton machines!
@madscientisthut Thanks! I've found that Amazon has the Hook Ripper for a good price. Ebay has really good deals as well. For the rust, I found a product called Fluid Film & Fluid Film Black. I sprayed everywhere. Worked like a charm.
Thanks for sharing, this is great! I bought an AGT oil cooler but can't find a needed M27 fitting, I'll give your solution a shot.
Thanks, I was going for the most economical way to add an oil cooler that I could get to work , IE.. no custom hoses or complex adapters to figure out. I currently have put on about 36 hours of pretty hard work on the machine since adding the cooler with no leaks and the cooler works great . I did end up moving my fan thermal switch to a hotter area near the oil filter to get the fan to turn on faster.
@@madscientisthut Good to know, thanks for the additional tip about the thermal switch.👍
Great Vid. Engine Oil is not Pressurized in the 13.5hp Briggs, so how do you plan the Engine Oil Cooler?
I have two plans, the first is to try a cheap fuel pump, hopefully this one works. The second is to try a science trick and use two check valves at each oil port one facing in the other facing out. The cylinder down stroke should create small amount of pressure in the crankcase that will pressurize the the hoses cooler and filter, the check valve the the oil entered should close on the up stroke. The up stroke should create a small amount of vacuum in the crankcase then pull the oil through the other check valve. The only thing with the second method is I am not sure how much pressure differential in the crankcase occurs between up and down stroke, I would need maybe 4-5 psi pulses to operate the check valves and to gain the 14-16 inches of height. Edit: replaced the word cylinder with crankcase and filled in a few missing bits..
I was thinking same thing
I went ahead an bit the bullet today and installed the oil pump, see this video : th-cam.com/video/dD-6Zw6_aGc/w-d-xo.html
these mods are interesting suggests that the design of this Chinese excavator is not good
*🥸fully viewed🤖Au🦘☑thumbs up👍have a good week👍*
The design is minimal, they do work and do do what you need. They are not designed for long work periods as they have neglected to include more heat management, but I think their main goal is to minimize cost.