Best be adding some kind of mount , for that filter bracket. With that sticking out there like that, you have way more leverage, prying on the fittings to the reservoir and with the vibrations of the machine, you are asking for trouble.
Yea I plan on making a bracket that goes right up to the cross member. I was thinking about that when I was editing this video. Thanks for the feedback
I was going to say the same. Wouldn't be good to wonder where all the oil went when that fitting breaks off from all that weight hanging off of it. There is a lot more vibration going on than it seems.
@@oby-1607 I’m trying to fix future issues not make more. Definitely going to make sure it’s secure. I’ve seen a lot of people just run it as I installed it with no support and they’ve been fine but knowing my luck, better safe than sorry. Thanks for watching.
I would think to bracket that filter, a bit of weight hanging off the welded fitting on the tank. Vibration over time may crack that weld. Im breaking mine in with dino oil till i switch over to T6
Yeah, that thought came to mind when I was editing this video. I’ll be making a bracket that goes from the filter housing up to the seat frame cross member. That’ll definitely be necessary to prevent anything from cracking especially when I have to change the filter. Thanks for watching
The metallic sheen in the engine oil is normal when a new engine is getting broken in. You should be using conventional oil, not synthetic for the break-in period (approx. 20 hours). Synthetic oil will prevent the piston rings seating properly during the engine break in which may lead to oil consumption down the road.
I truly wonder if it’ll actually make a difference with a non-pressurized oil system. I never even thought about running break-in oil through it considering the state of the hydraulic oil, I didn’t want to take any risks with qualities of fluids in the machine. You’re also right about the metallic sheen to the oil you can probably tell how green I am when it comes to a “new” machine. With the exception of chainsaws, I can’t recall ever buying a single new piece of machinery or equipment in my life. Same for engines I’ve always rebuilt or repurposed running motors. I already have what I believe is a governor issue on the machine. I’m definitely not wanting to cause other problems with it so I might just drain the oil out and toss some cheap conventional in when it’s not -20° outside. Thanks for the reminder and watching.
@@FenrirFabrication That's a good plan. I would do at least 2-3 oil changes during the break-in period to flush out any metallic flakes since those engines do not have an oil filter.
I had a ht10b like that body type. Heat is a problem when it gets warmer . If you are going to make the back into a door. If not remove the black cover to make it easier to check oil. Make sure to check the bolts on the swing motor and on the gear.
Yeah, quite a few people have told me heat is going to be an issue, I’ve already planned to extend the exhaust pipe a few inches so it exits outside the engine compartment. What pokes out right now is just the heat shield. I intend to make a brace/guard to protect the hydraulic drive motors as well. And it will be getting a cooling fan or two depending on amperage draw, and if the charging system can keep up with two. Plus replace the throttle cable because it’s already broken. Of course I’m going to be going around and tightening every single bolt on the machine quite a few people have told me about that swing motor being loose from the factory. Thanks for watching and the feedback.
I’ll definitely check it and probably make a little video of anything that was loose that I find. Sorry to hear about your incident. Just like all the debris that was in the bottom of my hydraulic reservoir. There were a lot of corners cut making these machines at this price point for sure.
You usually find them at auction for 3 to 5k as for importing them on your own, the cost roughly ends up being the same depending on shipping and customs/taxes. I was watching an auction and this one came up and nobody bid on it so I ended up getting it for 2600 after fees. Which is the lowest I’ve seen one go for. So I couldn’t pass it up.
The exhaust on mine is factory as of right now. The pipe looks to be 1 inch. I will be extending it so it properly exits out the back of the machine as what pokes out right now is just part of the heat shield and there is an air gap between the actual exhaust exit. It will also be getting a cooling fan or two to at least circulate air throughout the engine compartment and get some of the heat out. Even running it for 30 minutes just moving around you can tell it’s going to get really hot in the middle of summer.
@@FenrirFabrication I just installed 1 7” fan, a digital hour meter and a better seat belt because I broke my on the second time I used it. My rato engine didn’t come with any pipe for the exhaust so I will have to do something about that
@@heminole4life849 I picked up a 7 inch fan as well, just replaced my throttle cable and I’m putting a volt meter on it when I get a chance to do the fan. Realistically, I won’t have a use for the machine for a little while so I might as well get the miscellaneous go to upgrades done to it before it’s actively being used.
I’m actually in the process of replacing the throttle right now. The original one wouldn’t let it rev up past about 70% that in combination with the fact, it is a single cylinder, single pump machine and it was about 5° outside. Definitely made it a little bit unhappy.
I run a small landscaping/property maintenance business. It’ll be used for trenching, retaining walls, digging out stumps, etc. it’s pretty common for customers around here to get a couple quotes before they make a decision on a project. Renting mini excavators around here is quite pricey so it’s hard for me to be competitive and I miss out on jobs because these days most people go with the cheapest option. That option is usually people running under the table without insurance. Physically not possible to compete with them.
@@FenrirFabrication I’m going to try to use it to do trenching and moving brush for people. They have a couple of places around me that rent out machines but they are bigger ones. I might look into renting mine out.
@@heminole4life849 Plenty of people have got their foot in the door with business ideas using these little machines. I don’t know how well they would handle being rented out, but plenty of work can be done with them. Just not quickly.
I believe there is, that one didn’t even come to mind. But even if there is with that drain hose, there is not going to be enough clearance since it is too thick and hits the engine mounting plate.
You don't need anything more than idle on these machines. Quarter throttle Max. That's why your controls are so jumpy. All you're doing is wasting gas with full throttle
Quite a few people have said that but mine will stall immediately upon trying to do anything under half throttle. Even when warmed up.. based on the fact that so many people have said the same thing I think it’s worth looking into why mine wants to stall. At a quarter throttle you can’t even curl the bucket without stalling. I’ve replaced the defective throttle and adjusted the choke cable and the issue still persists. It just bogs down then cuts out. I am thinking I might have a governor issue, at least that’s a place to start unless you happen to have any insight on a similar issue? Personally, I’ve never run a gas excavator nor a single cylinder one at that. So what’s normal is something I’m still trying to figure out.
these are too light and too small You are not getting digging power when it lift in the front. Not to mention how unstable and dangerous they are with such narrow base. People will get killed in these things for sure.
Bobcat, Kubota, Kobelco, and numerous other companies make machines of this size. The mini/micro excavator categories obviously have some safety concerns due to how small and easy to tip they are, but they are designed to fit in tight locations such as through gates. They are far from useless, you can find tens of thousands of videos with people using them for trenching and other projects. Of course they’re not as stable or safe as a larger machine but if they were that ridiculously dangerous, my local Home Depot wouldn’t rent this size or smaller. Nor would the market for mini excavators and prices be many times more popular and expensive than much larger machines
Best be adding some kind of mount , for that filter bracket. With that sticking out there like that, you have way more leverage, prying on the fittings to the reservoir and with the vibrations of the machine, you are asking for trouble.
Yea I plan on making a bracket that goes right up to the cross member. I was thinking about that when I was editing this video. Thanks for the feedback
I was going to say the same. Wouldn't be good to wonder where all the oil went when that fitting breaks off from all that weight hanging off of it. There is a lot more vibration going on than it seems.
@@oby-1607 I’m trying to fix future issues not make more. Definitely going to make sure it’s secure. I’ve seen a lot of people just run it as I installed it with no support and they’ve been fine but knowing my luck, better safe than sorry. Thanks for watching.
Seat Looks Good with the red stitching
Yea It definitely is a great seat for the price. Looks good and is comfortable. Pretty durable as well.
I would think to bracket that filter, a bit of weight hanging off the welded fitting on the tank. Vibration over time may crack that weld. Im breaking mine in with dino oil till i switch over to T6
Yeah, that thought came to mind when I was editing this video. I’ll be making a bracket that goes from the filter housing up to the seat frame cross member. That’ll definitely be necessary to prevent anything from cracking especially when I have to change the filter. Thanks for watching
The metallic sheen in the engine oil is normal when a new engine is getting broken in. You should be using conventional oil, not synthetic for the break-in period (approx. 20 hours). Synthetic oil will prevent the piston rings seating properly during the engine break in which may lead to oil consumption down the road.
I truly wonder if it’ll actually make a difference with a non-pressurized oil system. I never even thought about running break-in oil through it considering the state of the hydraulic oil, I didn’t want to take any risks with qualities of fluids in the machine. You’re also right about the metallic sheen to the oil you can probably tell how green I am when it comes to a “new” machine. With the exception of chainsaws, I can’t recall ever buying a single new piece of machinery or equipment in my life. Same for engines I’ve always rebuilt or repurposed running motors. I already have what I believe is a governor issue on the machine. I’m definitely not wanting to cause other problems with it so I might just drain the oil out and toss some cheap conventional in when it’s not -20° outside. Thanks for the reminder and watching.
@@FenrirFabrication That's a good plan. I would do at least 2-3 oil changes during the break-in period to flush out any metallic flakes since those engines do not have an oil filter.
I had a ht10b like that body type. Heat is a problem when it gets warmer . If you are going to make the back into a door. If not remove the black cover to make it easier to check oil. Make sure to check the bolts on the swing motor and on the gear.
Yeah, quite a few people have told me heat is going to be an issue, I’ve already planned to extend the exhaust pipe a few inches so it exits outside the engine compartment. What pokes out right now is just the heat shield. I intend to make a brace/guard to protect the hydraulic drive motors as well. And it will be getting a cooling fan or two depending on amperage draw, and if the charging system can keep up with two. Plus replace the throttle cable because it’s already broken. Of course I’m going to be going around and tightening every single bolt on the machine quite a few people have told me about that swing motor being loose from the factory. Thanks for watching and the feedback.
@@FenrirFabrication i was one that had the grear came off and broke the housing.
I’ll definitely check it and probably make a little video of anything that was loose that I find. Sorry to hear about your incident. Just like all the debris that was in the bottom of my hydraulic reservoir. There were a lot of corners cut making these machines at this price point for sure.
You showed a parts list. Where did you source your parts?
Not affiliated with them but I went through surplus center and ebay
Just curious whats the retail on one of these diggers new tia !
You usually find them at auction for 3 to 5k as for importing them on your own, the cost roughly ends up being the same depending on shipping and customs/taxes. I was watching an auction and this one came up and nobody bid on it so I ended up getting it for 2600 after fees. Which is the lowest I’ve seen one go for. So I couldn’t pass it up.
@@FenrirFabrication Ok thank you very much sir !
Where is everyone getting the exhaust pipes at?
The exhaust on mine is factory as of right now. The pipe looks to be 1 inch. I will be extending it so it properly exits out the back of the machine as what pokes out right now is just part of the heat shield and there is an air gap between the actual exhaust exit. It will also be getting a cooling fan or two to at least circulate air throughout the engine compartment and get some of the heat out. Even running it for 30 minutes just moving around you can tell it’s going to get really hot in the middle of summer.
@@FenrirFabrication I just installed 1 7” fan, a digital hour meter and a better seat belt because I broke my on the second time I used it. My rato engine didn’t come with any pipe for the exhaust so I will have to do something about that
@@heminole4life849 I picked up a 7 inch fan as well, just replaced my throttle cable and I’m putting a volt meter on it when I get a chance to do the fan. Realistically, I won’t have a use for the machine for a little while so I might as well get the miscellaneous go to upgrades done to it before it’s actively being used.
Was the throttle down or something, sounded like some struggle there just doing little movements
I’m actually in the process of replacing the throttle right now. The original one wouldn’t let it rev up past about 70% that in combination with the fact, it is a single cylinder, single pump machine and it was about 5° outside. Definitely made it a little bit unhappy.
Nice Zinga Dare
They seem to be fairly decent filters based on the ones I’ve cut open. Easy to get replacements as well
What kind of jobs do plan on using it with? I just got a Miva VA15
I run a small landscaping/property maintenance business. It’ll be used for trenching, retaining walls, digging out stumps, etc. it’s pretty common for customers around here to get a couple quotes before they make a decision on a project. Renting mini excavators around here is quite pricey so it’s hard for me to be competitive and I miss out on jobs because these days most people go with the cheapest option. That option is usually people running under the table without insurance. Physically not possible to compete with them.
@@FenrirFabrication I’m going to try to use it to do trenching and moving brush for people. They have a couple of places around me that rent out machines but they are bigger ones. I might look into renting mine out.
@@heminole4life849 Plenty of people have got their foot in the door with business ideas using these little machines. I don’t know how well they would handle being rented out, but plenty of work can be done with them. Just not quickly.
@ your right. I can crawl backwards faster then they can move
there is a second drain plug on front of the engine
I believe there is, that one didn’t even come to mind. But even if there is with that drain hose, there is not going to be enough clearance since it is too thick and hits the engine mounting plate.
Add spacers under the motor to gain the room
You don't need anything more than idle on these machines. Quarter throttle Max. That's why your controls are so jumpy. All you're doing is wasting gas with full throttle
Quite a few people have said that but mine will stall immediately upon trying to do anything under half throttle. Even when warmed up.. based on the fact that so many people have said the same thing I think it’s worth looking into why mine wants to stall. At a quarter throttle you can’t even curl the bucket without stalling. I’ve replaced the defective throttle and adjusted the choke cable and the issue still persists. It just bogs down then cuts out. I am thinking I might have a governor issue, at least that’s a place to start unless you happen to have any insight on a similar issue? Personally, I’ve never run a gas excavator nor a single cylinder one at that. So what’s normal is something I’m still trying to figure out.
@FenrirFabrication unfortunately it does seem like you may have a different issue then. Best of luck figuring it out .thanks for posting content
It certainly seems like it, but we’ll figure it out one way or another. Thanks for taking the time to comment and thanks for watching.
these are too light and too small You are not getting digging power when it lift in the front. Not to mention how unstable and dangerous they are with such narrow base. People will get killed in these things for sure.
Bobcat, Kubota, Kobelco, and numerous other companies make machines of this size. The mini/micro excavator categories obviously have some safety concerns due to how small and easy to tip they are, but they are designed to fit in tight locations such as through gates. They are far from useless, you can find tens of thousands of videos with people using them for trenching and other projects. Of course they’re not as stable or safe as a larger machine but if they were that ridiculously dangerous, my local Home Depot wouldn’t rent this size or smaller. Nor would the market for mini excavators and prices be many times more popular and expensive than much larger machines