Thanks for doing this video! Shows me it's easy enough to do myself cause I do notice the hydraulics slow down on my machine when ran on high in about an hour! Some notes I wanted to add to your build to make it just that much better, 1. The spin on filter is small, I ordered the longest filter I could find. Extra oil capacity for cheap and also longer change intervals? I think it was 14$ so not an expensive upgrade. 2. You can buy a 3 way barb connection with shut off valves. Install 2 before the oil pump for easy fast oil flushes! First 3 way (3way with 2 valves) will be the drain line. The barb to the engine block is open. The barb towards the pump has a valve and the third barb is the drain barb also with a valve. Second 3 way is after the first of course. The open barb is facing the previous 3way and the other barbs have the valves. One to the pump and 1 will have a hose long enough to reach your new oil container.. this way you can run the engine with the input line directly pulling fresh oil through your radiators and through the block. The drain line drains into a spare used oil container. When the oil shows it's clean your flush is done! Second 3 way is before your pre oil pump filter
You are getting a better temperature drop than I got, that is nice. I have been using my mini ex a lot and I think it makes such a huge difference to get the coolers going, no loss in power after running for extended periods and the engine compartment stays pretty reasonable temperature wise too. Edit: additionally I moved the fan thermal switch down to where I have my remote engine oil filter, it gets hotter there and turns the fan on quicker. I need to do an update video at some point to show that change.
I think one of these little fuel pumps would work good, unless is was -20f. I think they will do about 5psi. The clear sight glass really helps me to see how well it is working, I am always checking the sight glass.
I was thinking about using a pneumatic fuel pump because I'm not sure how many amps the charging circuit puts out and I want a light bar and cooling fans. I would figure you would want the hot oil going through the filter first as hotter oil should flow through the filter better.
I think the Briggs 13.5HP should have 9amp max charging circuit. I can measure the pump and fan draw next time I run, but currently snowing here so going to be a week or more. I am also planning on a light bar on top of mine since the small LED light that is on the boom does not help much. That may work better for the oil filter but the flow seems fine for my setup, I did put the oil pump (fuel pump) last because I wanted the least amount of heat running there to make the electronic parts in the pump last longer.
I just looked at the specs on the fan and fuel pump, the fan is specified at less than 5 amps and the pump is specified at 1.2 amps. But I will measure it next time I run just to double check. Edit ( fixed typo )
If nobody else has tried it I will have to test a lawnmower fuel pump to see if it can handle the viscosity. I think it might as if you pump 2 cycle oil through a 2 cycle carb for storage the diagram pump on the carb seems to handle it just fine. The small area within the hose on your setup seems like it might be too resistive of an air spring. I was also under the impression this engine had a PCV to the intake, did you block it in your test? Sitting here thinking about it, I wonder if you put a sandwich bag in a peanut butter jar sealed with some pipe dope, with a Schrader valve on the bottom, flipped upside down with your expansion tube connected to the lid so it acts like an air spring diagram pump that you could play with the pressure. It is possible at the high rpm, the time at pressure and vacuum in the crank case isn't present long enough to move such viscous fluid...
Also in my test of my pneumatic pump design I did not think about how much the viscosity changes when the engine gets warmer. I did not let the engine warm up long enough during that test. I think it may pump better when the engine is warmed up. But now that I have the electric pump in there and have over 30 hours on this design I am really happy I did this, the engine compartment is much cooler and I really am happy that the engine oil is getting filtered. I do agree that the "air spring" could probably be larger too.
Maybe not with the engine running if thats a bad idea. Perhaps the pump wouldn't pump as fast as the oil would deplete possibly causing bubbles or foam? Maybe attempt with engine off 👌
Thanks for doing this video! Shows me it's easy enough to do myself cause I do notice the hydraulics slow down on my machine when ran on high in about an hour!
Some notes I wanted to add to your build to make it just that much better,
1. The spin on filter is small, I ordered the longest filter I could find. Extra oil capacity for cheap and also longer change intervals? I think it was 14$ so not an expensive upgrade.
2. You can buy a 3 way barb connection with shut off valves. Install 2 before the oil pump for easy fast oil flushes!
First 3 way (3way with 2 valves) will be the drain line. The barb to the engine block is open. The barb towards the pump has a valve and the third barb is the drain barb also with a valve.
Second 3 way is after the first of course. The open barb is facing the previous 3way and the other barbs have the valves. One to the pump and 1 will have a hose long enough to reach your new oil container..
this way you can run the engine with the input line directly pulling fresh oil through your radiators and through the block. The drain line drains into a spare used oil container. When the oil shows it's clean your flush is done!
Second 3 way is before your pre oil pump filter
Tested the radiator in my setup. From 185 at the radiator outlet to 140.9 at the radiator outlet. Ambient temp was 70.7..
You are getting a better temperature drop than I got, that is nice. I have been using my mini ex a lot and I think it makes such a huge difference to get the coolers going, no loss in power after running for extended periods and the engine compartment stays pretty reasonable temperature wise too. Edit: additionally I moved the fan thermal switch down to where I have my remote engine oil filter, it gets hotter there and turns the fan on quicker. I need to do an update video at some point to show that change.
Watched again, supporting you back. 😎Gary
Very important, thanks for showing us how in the video.
Oh this is cool! I'd always wondered if you could use a fuel pump as an oil pump.
When the engine is cold the pump does not flow as much, but when the engine is really warmed up the oil kind of pumps like water.
@@madscientisthut I was thinking about making a dry sump oil setup for a car using electric pumps, but was concerned about oil pressure at startup.
I think one of these little fuel pumps would work good, unless is was -20f. I think they will do about 5psi. The clear sight glass really helps me to see how well it is working, I am always checking the sight glass.
another useful modification mate
thumbs up👍Au💯full view always
It super cool video Kirk 25 Gary
I was thinking about using a pneumatic fuel pump because I'm not sure how many amps the charging circuit puts out and I want a light bar and cooling fans. I would figure you would want the hot oil going through the filter first as hotter oil should flow through the filter better.
I think the Briggs 13.5HP should have 9amp max charging circuit. I can measure the pump and fan draw next time I run, but currently snowing here so going to be a week or more. I am also planning on a light bar on top of mine since the small LED light that is on the boom does not help much. That may work better for the oil filter but the flow seems fine for my setup, I did put the oil pump (fuel pump) last because I wanted the least amount of heat running there to make the electronic parts in the pump last longer.
I just looked at the specs on the fan and fuel pump, the fan is specified at less than 5 amps and the pump is specified at 1.2 amps. But I will measure it next time I run just to double check.
Edit ( fixed typo )
If nobody else has tried it I will have to test a lawnmower fuel pump to see if it can handle the viscosity. I think it might as if you pump 2 cycle oil through a 2 cycle carb for storage the diagram pump on the carb seems to handle it just fine. The small area within the hose on your setup seems like it might be too resistive of an air spring. I was also under the impression this engine had a PCV to the intake, did you block it in your test? Sitting here thinking about it, I wonder if you put a sandwich bag in a peanut butter jar sealed with some pipe dope, with a Schrader valve on the bottom, flipped upside down with your expansion tube connected to the lid so it acts like an air spring diagram pump that you could play with the pressure. It is possible at the high rpm, the time at pressure and vacuum in the crank case isn't present long enough to move such viscous fluid...
Also in my test of my pneumatic pump design I did not think about how much the viscosity changes when the engine gets warmer. I did not let the engine warm up long enough during that test. I think it may pump better when the engine is warmed up. But now that I have the electric pump in there and have over 30 hours on this design I am really happy I did this, the engine compartment is much cooler and I really am happy that the engine oil is getting filtered. I do agree that the "air spring" could probably be larger too.
As far as the PCV valve, I did not look for one.
Maybe not with the engine running if thats a bad idea. Perhaps the pump wouldn't pump as fast as the oil would deplete possibly causing bubbles or foam? Maybe attempt with engine off 👌