Jeep 4.0L Oil Pan Gasket & Rear Main Seal Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2023
- This week we are back to work on the 1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ. Today I will be dropping the oil pain to fix a much needed leak. Today we will be replacing the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and engine oil pump. This Job will be identical to all Jeep 4.0L found in Wranglers, Grand Cherokees and Cherokees. Today I will show you how to do the whole job from start to finish by prepping the Jeep for the install and welding them in place. If you have any questions that the video does not cover, make sure to leave them below.
OutJeeping Merch Store: outjeeping.com
All Parts listed below are for a 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L model year. Your year and engine design may vary.
Oil Pan Gasket: FEL-PRO OS34308R
Oil Pump: MELLING M81A
Oil Pump Pickup: MELLING 242S
Rear Main Seal: FEL-PRO BS40612
Music Credit:
The Wrong Way by Silent Partner
Pickup Truck by Silent Partner - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![Jeep Cherokee: Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement Procedure/ 0331 TUPY 4.0L ['96-'01 XJ]](/img/n.gif)
Just want to say thanks for making such a great step-by-step tutorial on how to do this. Finished the job on my stock ‘01 XJ last night and couldn’t have done it without this video.
Glad it helped!
This took me three days to complete, the oil pan was by far the most difficult part getting it back in. I can't imagine documenting that process, awesome job on the video!
I had both done to my 00 XJ a year ago, she’s still running with no leaks 236,000+ miles 👍🏾😎
Getting ready to do this right now! All the parts are in - thanks for the video!
Dude hellyes this the one we been waiting for!! haha but fr wish this was up when i had my 99'. Your vids were always the closest i could relate to when fixing my 99' xj and helped me thru A LOT bro 🤙
Always great Jeep XJ instructional videos from you Austin. Had done this last summer on my stock 99 XJ, had to use a small 1 ton bottle jack to get enough clearance to get my oil pan out and back in. Now doing my cat back exhaust. Thanks again for your videos.
Recently bought an XJ and have been working on it for a couple months - gotta say that your videos have been a HUGE help! Thanks for sharing great content
Young man, great video with lots of detail. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you bro!!! I just finished my 2001 xj, exactly to your plan and no leaks on the oil pan gasket and the rear main. You got this my dude, really good instruction. keep on!
you got any tint questions just let me know lol
Excellent video just got done with this job yesterday with the help of your video and oversight from a experienced mechanic at work. The bottle jack trick did not give me enough clearance on stock height with my 99'. Ended up having to lift the motor AND disconnect the upper control arms. This is one of the best videos on TH-cam explaining this process, thank you for posting this!
Great video. Just did this on my 89 comanche. 2 comments:
1. To get the pickup on the oil pump, I found it easiest to clamp the pickup in a vise with wood blocks and hit the pump rather than trying to hit the pickup. I also covered both mating surfaces in gear oil.
2. Fel-pro gaskets are not supposed to be installed with RTV, so I elected not to. My comanche is a project car, so I won't know if this was a good decision or not for awhile when I finally get around to starting it.
Nice man. I've had all the parts ready for my 98... just haven't done it yet. ha. But I'm sure I will use this vid again this summer.
...clever idea to zip tye the gasket. Many thanks!!
Thank you for the INFO.
Awesome video bro, exactly what i was looking for.
Thanks bro I enjoy your videos always very helpful. Keep up the good work I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0.
in order to get my oil pan out on a completely stock xj I had to take off both shocks, the steering damper entirely(which I had to drill out as well), then take off the passenger side upper control arm bolt(only the 1 by the axle). this still wasn't enough for me to get it all out, so I used 2 bottle jacks and placed them near where the shocks would go and forced the axle down an inch or so more. then the pan just fell out. getting the oil pan in and out was easy with this, especially with bungee cords to hold back the trans lines in the front.
Same, get on it this weekend! Including the starter replacement. 99' btw
I've had this problem since I bought my jeep 3 years ago at 156k miles. Now at 204k I think I should just get it done and over with. Putting about 3 quarts of oil in a month at this rate. This video will be helpful when I get around to doing it!
This is a job I have done, I went through and god I never ever want to do it ever again. It doesn’t leak a drop anywhere since and I hope it stays that way, though I still say it’s worth it even to just see the health of the engine from inside
I use my engine hoist and I chain the axle to the legs to spread it enough to get the pan out
Don't need the zinc additive with the Rotella. Got over 350k on my 98 XJ,been running T5 for the last 100k or so. Love your videos , gonna do my pan ,pump n seal soon.
Im doing this after I replace both my 02 sensors on my 97XJ but might take me a day or 2 lol
I need to do this too but it’s such a hassle 😂
Thanks. Try doing this with a stock height XJ. Pain in the ass. I did it about 6 weeks ago. Was up on the lift at my shop, though. Still, I had to remove the oil pump before there was clearance enough to remove the old buggered up pan. Did the pump as well as the rod bearings, because my oil pressure was pretty low at idle once the engine got warmed up. Guess who has to do the rear main again tomorrow? This guy. I don’t think I remembered to put any RTV on the rear main cap before I put it back on. I have an ‘01, my rear main seal doesn’t have the ears on the cap side, just two half moons.
Yup in 2001 they changed up the rear main design. That's one thing I wish I would have changed as well was the rod and main bearings since it would be so easy to get to.
Did you use the little piece of paper to get the upper seal started?
💯💯
Does the cotter pin come out of the pump??
So for your next video can you do the “O” ring inside the oil filter housing? I hear it’s a pain to get that housing off.
Yup plan to do that next. That is the only place I'm leaking oil from now.
I replaced the oil pan and oil pump and pickup tube on my 2000 Jeep XJ. The pump was filled with sludge and my oil pressure had dropped to 0. The new pump when the engine is idling is at 10 psi. Do you recommend running a cleaner thru the the engine to try and clear up the sludge? Your videos have always been very helpful.
Maybe some Berryman, seafoam, or a quart of atv and then change the oil soon after. That is what I would try first but there are many other brands of engine flushes to choose from.
I'm thinking you must have a lift on that XJ for the pan to drop out so nicely. I have changed the gasket on a 2" lifted and a stock height XJ and the latter is a royal pita.
Anyway, just clicked here because you have good tutorials and I needed to know where the studs go. Nice vid.
Yup I mention that my Jeep was lifted. Still struggles a little bit with a 3" lift.
@@OutJeeping I must have missed it by skipping around.
I was always told if I was going to tackle this job to use a specific sealant from Mopar for the rear main seal. I don't remember the technical name for it but,it would seal in oxygen less environments. Did you ever hear the same thing?
Nope, any heat and oil resistant rtv brand should work just fine for this job.
I replaced my rear main seal and starting leaking worse. Im not sure what i may have done wrong??
Fantastic video; my 98 looks very similar underneath despite only having 115k miles, so probably going to do all these seals and gaskets. Quick question: why snap the oil pan gasket to the block instead of to the pan since you're using RTV anyway? Is it just because you have to finagle the pan so much and the gasket may slip out of place?
Also, for a stock-height Jeep, would it be easier to remove the sway bar, shocks and anything else that would allow the axle to drop lower? Or is that a bigger pain than the alternative?
It can be done either way. But like you said the pan gets finagled in place and has a less chance of getting broken or dirty when it's on the block. For a stock ride height Jeep, I agree to drop that sway bar and maybe drag link too, to get that axle as low as it can be.
I did this awhile ago in my 98 except for the oil pump. What was your oil pressure before and after the oil pump? I’m at 15-20 psi HOT idle, and always about 50 psi when on the throttle.
It increased the overall pressure about 10-15 psi
Thank you so much for all your instructional videos! Also, where is your Exhaust Downpipe from? Thank you!
I got mine from Walker, but it's junk and doesn't last, so next I'm going to buy a Northeastern stainless one from ebay.
Thank you so much for the response! To be honest, I've been stressed out, haha. I got a walker exhaust kit and a new intake/exhaust gasket to swap out my downpipe, but after hearing that, I think I'll wait and order the one you mentioned as well.
@RandolphKim Well the walker front pipe has lasted 4 years so far. The issue I have with it is that the exhaust mount was not bent correctly and rubbed on the exhaust crossmember. I tried to rebend it, and it cracked the weld and put a small hole in the pipe that is a noticable exhaust leak.
@OutJeeping oh 4 years?! I see. In your opinion, what direction should I take?
- I currently have my entire walker system.
-My old factory downpipe, which is in decent condition, but the PO cut it short, and now I have about 1-2 inches from the cross member 😅 so adding a cat is much harder.
-Or should I go to the exhaust shop and get a custom stainless steel?
I really appreciate your help and response!
@RandolphKim It all depends on your budget. If you got the funds, I would go to a shop for a custom stainless exhaust. Walker would get the job done, but if you live in winter climate like me, it may rust out faster. Northeastern stainless from eBay is decent for a cheap replacement that will hold up better than walker. However, it's only 304 stainless and not 316. 316 stainless will last a very long time.
Do you need to wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure before you add the oil? Thanks for the video
I don't usually, by the time the jeep is put back together, it's usually a couple hours later before I put in oil.
Do all xjs need that zddp stuff. I have a 95 xj sport
Its recommend since not a lot is found in modern day motor oils.
The plastic cover you removed onder the motor i can't bay that cover on line like autopart ebay
I think they are discontinued.
Did you prefill the oil pump before install?
I did not. It would all drain out in the I install anyway. It's the antidrain back valve in the oil that prevents oil from draining after each run.
I already installed mine but I didn’t prefill so I just making sure it would still prime.
Does that have zink in it? the oil?
More than normal engine oils plus I put in a zddp additive.
I have changed it 3 times, but the oil is still leaking, why?
Could be a number of things. What side is the leak coming from?
@@OutJeeping Engine oil flows from the transmission sump
I love to see Melling products. I used to set up and operate 6 spindles screw machines back in the early 1990s. I machined a ton of different oil pump shafts. Melling produces great products.
What wheels are those?
Rubicon Extreme Wheels by Quadratec