I’ve been a technician for better part of 35 years. I personally treat each of my customers like I would want someone treating my mom wife or daughter. I have always educated my customers. I feel they are grown men and women. And know what they can afford. I have always felt that my best advertisement is word of mouth. And no matter what shop i worked for. Many customers would say i want Robbie only to work on it. For me it was a since of pride and integrity. And i have customers that now are friends I’ve known for 30 years.
Tai Vo thank you i try. I have found lot of the in and out shops try to stack. Now because of smart phoned you can find what labor charges should be. Then you can talk to them about it
Mechanic of 25 years here also if you’re concerned about when to change fluids radiator coolant transmission fluid differential fluid etc. look at your owners manual follow that to the T and you will get more life out of your vehicle and it never hurts to get a second opinion in regards to repairs
I had a classmate that got fired from Chevy because they told him to find at least 3 high dollar repairs when a customer comes in. Sad. He was such a great guy. So he opened up his own garage and we all left the Chevy dealership to follow him. He does great work at reasonable prices
...and use big twenty-something millimeter wrenches to remove bolts with fourteen or fifteen millimeter heads, and to it all without getting even a tiny bit dirty.
After 2 years of going to the dealer who sold us the car new with free oil changes for two years I decided to return to doing my own oil changes. The oil filter I found on the engine had (by its appearance) I suspected hadn't ever been replaced. They may have changed the oil and given us a free car wash but that was it. I told this to my son who was still getting his oil changes done there. He marked his cars oil filter with a permanent marker (in a secret way) and guess what? They were not replacing it with the oil changes. When confronted the service manager "put on a show" and scolded the mechanic.
Another thing they love to sell is cabin and engine air filters. These are cheap and easy to replace yourself. If you truly need one, do it yourself. It will save you a lot of money in the long run. Oh same goes with wiper blades. They are so easy to install. Some places will install for free if you buy the blades from them. Side of caution.
I just did the cabin and engine filters on my Ford Edge . I also buy my own oil filter , auto zone didn’t know how to take off my back wiper ,they said I need some tool. TH-cam yet again made it very easy to show how to remove and replace it no tool needed!!
Don't EVER let your brakes get down to 90% before changing! For me, 50% is waaay too close! The more miles your engine has, the more frequently you should change your oil! Mfg ratings on oil is 3k for non synthetics, and 7500 (usually) for synthetics. if you have higher mileage, then do so a little sooner. Same with additives, some are actually designed for higher mileage cars, because you get a build up inside that wears parts sooner, etc. I do 80% of repairs myself on all my vehicles
Dirty oil or water contaminated oil wears piston rings, valve guides, lifters bearings and many close tolerance parts like variable valve systems. Turbo charging adds additional demands with high temperature operation and heat soaking on shut down. Your assertion that oil evaporates or burns off and therefore can last 10,000 miles is ridiculous. Cold starts and short trips will dilute oil with water and gasoline by products from rich mixtures and low engine temperatures. A realistic oil change is 5000 miles or one year whichever comes first. Tires on the front of front wheel drive cars wear much faster than on the rear. All tire experts recommend tire rotation every 5 to 6000 miles. Your writers know little about auto tech.
Starting new technician here, I have met so many ppl coming into the industry with the goal of becoming some of the most loyal mechanics out there and will be honest with you! I see a good change of hands in the near future! As for me a customers is what feeds my family and me, so of course I wanna treat them the best of my ability, and I'm not the only one who sees it this way!
I have been fixing other peoples cars since 1972. I have always been honest with my customers and try to get them the best value for their money. I have yet to see rusty brake pads.. rusty rotors, calipers and such are common. I've never added additive to any car unless there actually is a problem such as noisy lifters. Hard to tell if the check engine light is on because of a loose gas cap. Even if you tighten the cap the light won't instantly go out it will reset itself only after multiple starts or if you use a code reader to reset the memory. 80 percent of the check engine lights I see are from plugged up canister purge valves or broken charcoal canisters. If your battery needs a boost and there were no lights left on get yourself a new battery especially if its a few years old. Charging it up will mot magically restore it so go get a new one. No one wants to be sitting with a car load of kids in a parking lot in the dark with a wind chill of -35 and have a dead battery. Also its more important to check your tire air pressure than to have the tires rotated. watch for tire wear and if you see unusual wear find out why. Free checks are good, but don't get that shop to do the work. I've had people bring me a list of what a free check over says they need. Some quotes are maybe as much as $2500.00..... work actually needing done? maybe $1000 sometimes less. Lifetime warranties exist on more than mufflers. Shops know you'll lose the receipt or trade your car so very little ever gets replaced free. Best advice Keep your receipts. Keep a record of when something is fixed. Read your owners manual. If you drove your car in for a check up don't be scared to drive it away and get a second opinion.
Same, he lost me with the changing oil time frame. If you race a car, you best be changing your oil frequently. Or if the car sits for a significant period of time. Change the oil
I will say on the additives, my car has 350,000 and idling rough, I put a can of Sea foam in the gas tank and it runs and idles 90% better than before.
Most brake noise is caused by dust, not rust... If your pads are rusted your brakes aren't working right, most likely the guide pins that allow the caliper to slide are stuck or frozen up with rust... Have you ever worked as a Tech or Mechanic? I tried to explain to customers what they needed to do to fix their autos but most don't care or want to hear that... Most Techs or Mechanics make $9 to $30 an hour flat rate... The garage owner makes and decides on the cost of repairs... If you bring me a car and to fix said car it takes 1 hour that is set by a standard and I go over by a half-hour, I still only get paid for an hour... The half-hour was free... At most jobs that I know of if you work over you get paid overtime, Techs/Mechanics do not... Have a great day...
I'm 67,and I've been doing mechanics for 47 years,and I can tell you that brakes DO rust. If they get wet,or it's a humid day,and the vehicle isn't driven,every day,the rotors drums shoes,and pads will rust. When hat happens they make a grinding noise,as they clean themselves of the surface rust....which some shops with lower ethics,use to sell a brake job.
@@johngardner2807 True... But If the vehicle is being driven then it may be dust... Tech/Mech ASE certified since 2003 and worked on them since I was a kid...
If you have FWD or 4WD you do need to rotate tires consistently as the fronts will feather edge due to the drive units. By rotating you maximize the life of your tires.
10k miles on an oil change? Thats a good way to destroy an engine. Most modern engines are turbocharged, meaning that they share oil between the two, even top of the line oils breakdown over time and heat. If you have a turbo, 4000-6000 miles is probably a good number. In addition, depending on the age of the engine and how much blow-by in it, carbon can make its way into the oil. this causes carboxylic acid, that can eat at the brass(babbit) bearings in the engine. That is REALLY BAD. Telling people to go 10k miles on an oil change is irresponsible. Dirty oil is better than no oil, sure. but filters have a life too. Spend the $100~ every couple months, better than paying $10k for an engine job.
@UCiTLCOqutD7QVlB8s2H7aMA again, I wouldn't risk it personally. Nor, as an aircraft mechanic and engine builder, would I recommend it. I'd love to run the 120k mile car through a compression check and see exactly how much it's lost. All my vehicles run 6-7k miles on an oil change, except my racecar for obvious reasons. It's one of those "why risk it?" Situations, and recommending 10k as a blanket statement is irresponsible. Follow the manufacturer's manual.
@@thenewhalogod Lots of engines do 10k between oil changes. Literally millions of them around the world and this is not an exaggeration. Depends on how much time it takes to cover the miles too. Most modern engines have a built in algorithm and sometimes even sensors to estimate when the oil needs changing and there's not even a set mileage on the manual. My work van does over 15k miles between oil changes, which is typically around six months.
Clean engine oil means it’s not doing the right job and keeping the engine clean inside . Dirty oil means it’s suspending all the trash in it and doing its job .
Basically , you put in new engine oil all nice and clean , within a few days it’s going black , WHY ? Well what’s happening is that the nice new engine oil which is full of detergents ,is helping clean all the crud out of your engine and suspending it in the oil so it’s not contaminating the components of the engine , if your car has been looked after and had regular oil changes the crud inside will be less so the engine oil stays cleaner for longer. If your very conscious change your oil every 3000 miles , some vehicles don’t need until on a service plan at 20000 miles , so the oil has been tested to do its job for that length of time . ( bit to long in my opinion) If you put trash cheap oil in , it will not keep the engine clean inside but will stay cleaner longer so you think Great that’s brilliant oil , but I’m afraid that’s not the case , PS Diesel engine oil goes black straight away due to the amount of soot it is suspending after combustion, but it’s still doing its job . Hope this helps
Its not the mechanics that overcharge, its the service advisors. Having been a mechanic and dealing with service advisors, most mechanics just do the work and suggest a fix, the service advisor overcharges and upsells. Dont put the blame on mechanics, we're just doing our job!!
Mostly true but there ARE self-employed mechanics who operate their own shop. I've found a couple of them to be rip-off artists. My wife got swindled by one in Billings, MT when she was on the road for her job.
@@butchstrey8623 very true, the bad apples of the bunch made me want to study and learn about cars so I dont get ripped off or rip customers off. Its just sad that they give the rest of us a bad name.
Same here. I was intimidated, but due to necessity (no extra money) I learned (often on youtube and friebds) and do my own work. I got an 03 saturn & '98 honda civic both for free. I'll put on 500,000 klms on both (currently 270,000 on each car less on 150). I'm 58. I'll have them plus my 302, '86 F150 XL for life. I cange oil frequently. Wix xp or equivelant x 3000 klms. A few new/used parts. General maintenence. Good FOR 20 years! No oil flushes. MMO in tank. None in engines yet. David Alberta
@@davidweum9334 I can relate! I learned about cars so I know enough to know whether or not im getting ripped off, and enough to fix it myself and save on labor costs.
DI cars have been around in Europe for decades, doing hundreds of thousands of miles without a carbon clean and still working. Don't know what is it with Americans and their hard ons for carbon cleaning, someone convinced you that it was necessary because taking engine heads off to clean them up is good business.
Rotate your tires regularly is very true if you car is a front wheel or rear wheel drive, and I did it every 10k miles with America Tires since I purchased a set of 4 from them for the last 2 sets of tires. I have friends who never rotate their tires and eventually 2 of their tires wore out faster and they will need to replace 2 tires instead of 4, which spend more money in the long run since tire promotion usually go with a set of 4. But I do have a concern with Decarb where some auto dealership recommending customer that they need one and they will charge for $200+, while I just pour a can of Seafoam into the engine oil and gasoline.
Lead acid batteries; when totally flattened, will only return to 70% of their previous capability. Do it twice, and it's the same again. For easy numbers: a 100ah battery flattened, returns as a 70ah unit. Repeat the flattening gives a 50ah unit. Do it a handful of times, is why you end up with a battery that won't hold enough overnight to start up on a cold morning. Corrosion/ build up on the terminals: maybe? Good maintenance should have seen a dollop of grease/ even vaseline on them to start with really. Wire brush them, tighten up the connectors. This and the grease generally means few battery issues.
Most shops will not allow customers into the service area, claiming this is an insurance issue. It might be, but the more likely reality is that they just don't want the customer watching them. I operated a quick oil change shop for a short time, and we were under a lot of pressure to maximize the revenue from each customer by upselling in any possible way. Some shops, especially dealers, incentivize their service supervisors to upsell through commissions based on service revenue. Remember, a repair shop cannot do anything that the car's owner didn't authorize, so if you get a recommendation, take the car to another shop for diagnosis and see if that shop reaches the same conclusion. Chances are it won't.
Fuel additives, they are useful especially octane boosters and especially if youre in a state that uses ethanol over 10 percent in the fuel or if you buy lower quality gas that uses heptane as a filler in the fuel , also if you have a turbocharged car or engine with a high compression ratio , (most japanese cars or performance cars) but in order to get the benfits you have to use a obd2 scanner tool to reset the ecu ( hit erase codes) wheter or not check loghts on, add fuel additives to tank then take for a 5 to 10 min drive in freeway using moderate acceleration. The cars ecu will set the ignition timing and cam advance to match the better fuel.
No. But they may try to recommend it. Not needed unless you are buy wider tires and they install them. Very good idea to do a wheel alignment. Otherwise no worries. Hope this helps.
Your front tires can do something your back tires won't... They turn. Since they turn, they tend to wear a bit faster than the rear tires. That's why tire techs say to rotate to get even wear. No rotation in most cases only wears the front down at around twice the speed of the rears. Ijs
I have a reliable ,experienced and trust worthy mechanic ,who is nearing retirement age ,and as much as he deserves retirement ,I'm dreading it as finding someone as honest and dependable that I could trust as much will be difficult.
in theory but in real life it does not. i am having to replace tires bought new about 3 years ago and i can assure you they have not worn at the same rate even though i rotated them myself. the drivers side has worn out quicker that the passenger side.
No mention on other subsystems like ? : Cooling systems : radiator, water pump Steering and Linkage : steering rack, tie rods, knuckle arm, ball joints, etc Charging system : alternator Braking system : master cyllinder, brake booster, fluid pipe lines, proportioning valve, etc. Ignition system : starter, spark plug and cables, etc. Fuel system : injector, throttle body, intake manifolds, etc. I think, when a car owner can mention these stuffs, a mechanic can become a friend to discuss what is going on with his car and find optimal solution.
The oil is the life blood of the car. You want your car to last a long time? Change the oil/filter sooner than later. Even though my car uses full synthetic, I change every 3,500 miles. And don’t forget about the transmission. The transmission is the most expensive system next to the engine. Change the transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
a mechanic had just tried to tell me my torque strut mount had broken off into the transmission casing and needed 1300+ to fix. i ordered the part for $80 and went under the car and my old one was just ready to be replaced no critical problem. they REALLY tried to finesse smh
2:08 idk about this one man I’ve heard many mechanics and automotive engineers say changing it helps prevent oil burning so probably should change it every 5-7k miles
if you use good branded engine oil there should be no oil burning. just compare the level of your engine oil after svc & after 7k miles. unless you drive a turbo car, cause turbo cars normally will drop on the engine oil level a little.
Okay for oil, the reason why its set at 3,000 miles/3 months is because the detergant start to break down at time. Yes you can add new oil, but I promise you I've seen 10,000 mile oil and that stuff doesnt not like to come out. When those detergants start to break down they will start depositing gunk, grime and varnish inside the engine. This could go into the pore and clogged them preventing oil going where it needs to. Now saying this, no you dont need to change the oil at 3,000 miles/3 months, because the detergants and other additives are still going to be active, however I personally dont recommend pushing 7,500 on convetional oil, full synthetic, yes. Me personally, I change it at 5,000 for full synthetic and I do and engine flush mid summer to make sure that I get out the gunk, grime and varnish to make sure my engine is running smoothly... take this information as you want. It gets 100x more complicated but it the basic run down
07 Yukon with the AFM engine, run full synthetic and change at 4 to 5k usually before winter and then in spring and maybe middle of summer if I put in enough miles. I'm not dealing with stuck lifters on those engines
Oh and the gas cap being loose allowing oxygen into the lines or tank is not the reason for the check light, the light goes on because the cars ecu monitors the fuel tank pressure /vacuum and indicates when the system is no longer sealed meaning FUEL VAPOR may be escaping into the air hurting the environment and may be a fire hazard
5:58 I guess that is a good thing about my 2012 Ford Taurus, it just has a little flap that you push the nozzle through and don’t have to worry about it
I grew up in a full service gas station. I became a Manager for Firestone at 21 years old. I never sold something they didn't need. I even got used drums and rotors for struggling people. I would always show the customer. I built up two stores that they were going to close because of low volume. It was the Managers messing up the business. Things like Tie Rods and Center links. Customers would ask how long do you think they will last. Maybe two years and maybe they won't last on your trip home. Those need to be replaced for tire ware and to hold a Alignment. Also to be safe.
@@henrynewton8809 My comment was based on that the fuel pickup is on the bottom of the tank, meaning the only way *AIR, NOT* oxygen will get into the fuel lines is when the fuel level gets below the pick up. But yes, you are correct with the pressure differential throwing the code.
Dude tyre rotation helps if you have an FWD or an RWD system if you have a full/ part-time or manual AWD or 4x4 it's not a concern as much. The wear when it comes to the power transfer from shaft to tyres there's a small amount of slip that happens from time to time before they grip and move the vehicle along with the FWD or RWD system putting more pressure than the wheels that are merely following the push or pull puts wear in a more local area. You can buy a tyre depth gauge for 2 or 5 bucks and check it yourself if you want to check what the tech tells you. If your tyres are more than 3-4
Lucas oil addative helps with noisy liffters . I used it with every oil change until i puchesed a new set of heads. (This is not a miracle fix all. If you tighten your lifters and there still knocking try it. But if theres a serious problem its just a bandaid. ) its worth the 15-20 .just dont add to much oil.
heat will delaminate the glue used to bond the pads to the backing plate so 10 % in my opinion and my family's safety is too thin i feel safer with 25 %. Also when oil change places service your car they top off the brake fluid witch is a no no when the level goes down to the min line the red brake light comes on in the dash indicating the natural pad wear, when the brakes are serviced and everything is in the correct position as new the light will be off again , and also if its topped of when the brakes get serviced and the piston is pushed back the fluid will over flow causing a mess .and if your brake light ie wear indicator light doesnt come on you could damage your rotors, and cost more than just pads.
i think for the free inspection, normally mechanic will tell cust stuff that needed repair due to wear and tear. they dont simply tell cust to replace parts that are still in good condition. everything should be optional but mech should tell the cust what is going to happen if cust dont replace it.
The one with the brake pads screeching is not due to "rust" on the pads. It is because of the composition of the brake pads. About 15 years ago it was mandated that the brake pads should not contain asbestos due to health concerns. Almost every brake pad will screech somewhat depending on the composition. If you have rust dust on the brake pads they will not screech, but have reduced brake ressistance. They quick fix is just to use lukewarm water and blow the wet dust away with air pressure around the pads, when you change between summer/winter wheels.
I have been told that I need different things done to my car when getting an oil change. First it was the struts were leaking and need replacing. That was three years ago (they still work fine). Then I needed a new head gasket (would cost as much as my car is worth to change). That was two years ago. I don't see any oil leaking on my driveway. My car is 14.5 years old, only had a couple of minor problems that I fixed myself. My first car lasted 24 years without any significant repairs. In fact it still worked just fine, but I retired it and got a new one.
BEFORE I CAME HOME FROM ALBERTA MY PARENT'S "HONEST" GARAGE TOLD MY INEXPERIENCED MOTHER HER BRAKES NEEDED CHANGING EACH YEAR AS SHE JUST TOLD THEM TO KEEP HER AND DAD SAFE. WE DID SOME WORK IN ANOTHER GARAGE AND THIS"HONEST GARAGE" WAS SO ANGRY, THE SUMMER TIRES WE CHANGED FROM WINTER, ONE WHEEL HAD NOT ONE LUG TIGHTENED AND IN A COUPLE OF WEEKS THAT WHEEL WAS LITERALLY FALLING OFF THE BASE!!!
Yes. The oil will burn off, but the shit in the oil won't. What shit? A: Carbon. It will build up in the engine, and it will slowly degrade your engine in terms of power and efficiency.
@@dominicwong6592 question. If it is a closed loop sysyem(oil in, cap on, "closed") where does the oil evaporate to? I'm not a car mechanic so I'm curious.
@@Twoxerofour it is not a close loop system. The engine has to let air (oxygen) in, burn in chamber, let exhaust out from engine. Oil is there to lubricate moving parts and turbo, as well as piston in the chamber. But it will stick to the walls of the combustion chamber to allow lub for the piston. So, it gets burn off during the combustion cycle.
Change it that often if you want, oil and filters are cheap, engines are not. People who say to change it at long intervals probably will gladly sell you a new engine.
Man he sure makes it out like every mechanic is just a schmuck.... I don't know where he's from or what he's been dealing with but I've been a mechanic for over 26 years and I'm always trying to find ways to save my customers money not raise their hood and bulshit with them and say they need this that and the other, when they don't... I go out of my way to fix things at the best price possible without them having to pay out the ass... I even give them my discount I get at the parts store which is supposed to be for shops to make a little extra on parts... almost all of the time my customers get my discount.... sometimes I may mark something up $1 which it would still be way under walk-in cost.... I even do things on credit for people and let them make payments if they can't afford a big job up front....like head gasket or something major...
I bought a battery from AutoZone. About 18 months later it was not "holding a charge" so I said go ahead and change it out. I went to pay for it and the guy said You are under Warranty so NO CHARGE. Surprised and Pleased, but mostly Surprised !!
5 inspections are important to catch small problems before they become major a stitch in time saves nine , replacing a coolant hose or leaking radiator is much cheaper than paying for an engine rebuild because of blown head gasket . Plus the tow to a repair facility. 6 Tire rotations mark the tires great ! But front to back is not the only way it they get rotated depending on if youre vehicle is front wheel drive rear wheel drive or 4 wheel /awd the tires get moved in different ways ,
My Car has a long life service and will last at least 20000. My current car tells me it needs and oil change in 17,600 miles or 623days. The dealer said I should only bring it in for a service when the car says it need it done. One of my last 2 car was also on longlife service only had one service in the 3 years of my ownership,at 2 years. My last car did not have the longlife service plan and after the 1st service I had them change it to longlife service so again i only had one service in 3 years.
A lot of times they say your car needs repair when dont. They recomends services you dont need and some times the services dont get done but still you get charged for them. One thing you can do is read your owners manual to know when services are needed.
Meh, I'll stick to servicing and maintaining my vehicles thanks. The only time I had an engine light issue was an egr valve clogging up and failing. THAT was a headache and considering the ridiculous quotes I received to get someone else to replace or clean it, I did a little research, removed the original and broke it while ATTEMPTING to clean it, replaced it with a new one from ebay and reset the ecu all for less than $50. Haven't had any problems since.
I was told by a mechanic ,who test drove and not look at my 2007 Kia Sedona , needed a new steering . I went to store and got some spray and found the rusted bolts to the steering and steering wheel worked fine after that .
Yeah. Change your twin turbo gdi engine oil every 10,000 miles. Even more so if you take very short trips. Let me know how that works out for you after a long time.
On older vehicles you can go longer without a oil change, but it all depends really on the filter. Certain filters can go 10 to 20k miles. But on new cars I hear more often the better because of the electronic systems and sensors. I'd change it regularly on a newer vehicle, but on 80s and behind you can prob go 5 to 7 up to you. I try to do mine every 5k and with a napa gold or wix filter. filter quality matters as well as the oil. spend money now or later. (not a mechanic i just like maintance.
with any vehicle oil is not a such problem, nowdays good branded oils are good indeed, what people may not know about is how important is to buy high quality oil filter. Because cheapest filter can break apart thus pieces of it can end up all over your enginge block, clogging small holes used to lubricate your engine components, that can lead to disaster. So if anyone runs car with longer oil change intervals its always better to buy quality oil filter. Regards
I've found that crusts of rust on the OUTER RIM of brake discs (called brake rotors in the US) can cause a scratching noise. The rust can easily be knocked away by tapping gently with a hammer or using a wire brush. Then blow away the rust before using the car, so it doesn't cause any problems.
Every so often maybe every other month maybe once a month especially if you are can go to any gas station get some dry gas and add it to a full tank this will get rid of any moisture in your gasoline or diesel and you’ll be amazed at how much better your car could potentially run it only takes a few drops of water to re-Kavic on a car I personally like to use seafoam or heat.
The mechanic at the dealership made some "adjustments" on my Subaru during a "free inspection". He over-tightened the fan belt which would have caused the failure of the bearings in the alternator and the water pump. He also unplugged the thermostat on the electric radiator fan which would have resulted in overheating of the cooling system.
Toyota dealer didn't tighten filter and lost all the oil before got home. This is one reason not to take your car to dealership. Plus they will find lots of things that actually don't need repairing.
and one thing flush your power steering fluid and coolint everytime you replace because their is still old and bad fluid still in their also with brake fluid
Any oil with over 3k miles is when it starts burning which is why car enthusiasts change there oil regularly you don’t want to mix new and old oil it’s like mixing gas and diesel
If you have always used Mobile 1 full syn with filter change 7500miles great!! I've driven same car daily for 16years Feb will b 17 years and I've only used Mobile1 full syn 10w30 and Motocraft filters at 7500miles my oil is clean on stick!! Never had to add between changes but do check weekly!!
I gave up dirty oil and oil changes 56 years ago. At the present I am using Motor Guard and Gulf Coast bypass filters. The trick is to use a good oil and never let it get dirty. Your oil is supposed to stay clean. Your filter is supposed to get dirty and be changed. If you watch this site you know what good oil is.
Another pro tip is if you drive a diesel truck that requires DEF fluid never ever buy the fluid they sell in the store unless you can 110% guarantee that it hasn’t been sitting there for months or weeks because once they are sitting there for that long and you put it in your DEF system it’s gonna fuck your shit up a mechanic in fact a diesel only mechanic who is successful enough to have a toolbox that cost nearly $250,000 and has a fucking staircase on it gave me that advice he recommends to only ever find your DEF fluid directly from a gas station
Check engine light only refers to one set of problems and that has to do with admissions and the reason why the gas cap being loose sits off the engine light is because they don’t want your gas vapors to escape this is set up by the EPA and there’s nothing about oxygen getting in your tank because most tanks are vented but it Hass to go through a charcoal box so the vapors are caught and burned in your engine
They showed a chick because of the "Women can do men things agenda" that's being pushed. They want to reverse men and women's roles in society. This is subliminal messaging.
Battery when it loses its charge Means its 12.67v whith no load and car is off when u start the engine (the starter works and stalls ) voltage drops below 11.8v means 1 cell inside the battery is damaged and needs a new battery. Brake pads only be changed when the car doesn't decelerate quickly and when sharp squeaks noises comes out . All cars have a secret buttons pattern to reset the error codes shown on instrument cluster . I did that on Mercedes clk 320 And jeep wrangler . Each has it's own way to reset it and the mechanic can easily charge for reset procedure for 150$.
WHEN YOU BUY A BATTERY FROM WALMART THEY WONT SHOW THE BATTERY BUILD DATE THEY SAY JUST GO FROM YOUR RECEIPT STILL HAS OLD BUILD DATE AND IN STOCK LIFE
NEVER go 10,000 miles without a oil change. What’s cheaper? A $30 oil change or a new engine? I’m a mechanic and even in my car that says to change the oil every 6000 miles I still change it every 3000 miles, it just helps prevent any kind of sludge buildup.
Ok, for the oil statement. It depends on the oil you use. Conventional or synthetic. Conventional should be done every 3-5k miles and the synthetic should be done every 5-10k miles. Please look in my responses for more accurate information!
The tire rotation is true if you don't see it, feel free to lable it. Other than the fact it does wear more quickly on the drive tires and also the front because of the turning of the wheels.
The battery one is partly true, the terminals can corrode and have build up, you can clean it and try again, but if it does still keep giving you issues, buy a new battery or get it looked at because your alternator may be going out as well!
Brake rotors wil have some rust on them when the car has not been driven for a while moreso if has rained. The rust come off after you brake a few times.
7 secrets car owners don't know,? Skip all that crap and find yourself a good guy who works from his home, no high overheads, he won't overcharge you because ne needs you to come again for your next service.
and to add, find a trusted person at the first place...simply because i had experiences with some mechanic that i went to fix one thing, while they doing (undoing) parts they fucked up few other parts and didn't told me about it..this can lead you to dangerous problems, while parts they damaged didn't cost vritually nothing..just saying honesty at the first place..
I’ve been a technician for better part of 35 years. I personally treat each of my customers like I would want someone treating my mom wife or daughter. I have always educated my customers. I feel they are grown men and women. And know what they can afford. I have always felt that my best advertisement is word of mouth. And no matter what shop i worked for. Many customers would say i want Robbie only to work on it. For me it was a since of pride and integrity. And i have customers that now are friends I’ve known for 30 years.
I left the business after 5 years bc i couldnt take how ppl would make shit up for more $$
God bless you. This world need more people like you.
Helping not always looking in their wallet....
Tai Vo thank you i try. I have found lot of the in and out shops try to stack. Now because of smart phoned you can find what labor charges should be. Then you can talk to them about it
What state is Mr Robbie in?
Leave:Me:In:A:Little:Log:Cabin ?
I live in Oklahoma. I now work for a city so i have one customer and they are forced to use me lol
Mechanic of 25 years here also if you’re concerned about when to change fluids radiator coolant transmission fluid differential fluid etc. look at your owners manual follow that to the T and you will get more life out of your vehicle and it never hurts to get a second opinion in regards to repairs
I had a classmate that got fired from Chevy because they told him to find at least 3 high dollar repairs when a customer comes in. Sad. He was such a great guy. So he opened up his own garage and we all left the Chevy dealership to follow him. He does great work at reasonable prices
De paula Chevy suck
Sad
TOYOTA IS JUST AS BAD!!!!!!!!! SMMFH
mech.s name and ph# please
Never met many mechanics who wear push up bras or overalls with no shirt underneath.
Right! She didn't even tie her hair back...
Me neither but I’d like to see a few when they fix.....say put air in my tires
She aint a mechanic bruv
...and use big twenty-something millimeter wrenches to remove bolts with fourteen or fifteen millimeter heads, and to it all without getting even a tiny bit dirty.
You should get out more then.
After 2 years of going to the dealer who sold us the car new with free oil changes for two years I decided to return to doing my own oil changes. The oil filter I found on the engine had (by its appearance) I suspected hadn't ever been replaced. They may have changed the oil and given us a free car wash but that was it. I told this to my son who was still getting his oil changes done there. He marked his cars oil filter with a permanent marker (in a secret way) and guess what? They were not replacing it with the oil changes. When confronted the service manager "put on a show" and scolded the mechanic.
Another thing they love to sell is cabin and engine air filters. These are cheap and easy to replace yourself. If you truly need one, do it yourself. It will save you a lot of money in the long run. Oh same goes with wiper blades. They are so easy to install. Some places will install for free if you buy the blades from them. Side of caution.
O'Reilly Auto Center will put it on for you on request.
There normally won't be a charge.
Windshield wiper blades.
I just did the cabin and engine filters on my Ford Edge . I also buy my own oil filter , auto zone didn’t know how to take off my back wiper ,they said I need some tool. TH-cam yet again made it very easy to show how to remove and replace it no tool needed!!
Don't EVER let your brakes get down to 90% before changing! For me, 50% is waaay too close! The more miles your engine has, the more frequently you should change your oil! Mfg ratings on oil is 3k for non synthetics, and 7500 (usually) for synthetics. if you have higher mileage, then do so a little sooner. Same with additives, some are actually designed for higher mileage cars, because you get a build up inside that wears parts sooner, etc. I do 80% of repairs myself on all my vehicles
Dirty oil or water contaminated oil wears piston rings, valve guides, lifters bearings and many close tolerance parts like variable valve systems. Turbo charging adds additional demands with high temperature operation and heat soaking on shut down.
Your assertion that oil evaporates or burns off and therefore can last 10,000 miles is ridiculous. Cold starts and short trips will dilute oil with water and gasoline by products from rich mixtures and low engine temperatures. A realistic oil change is 5000 miles or one year whichever comes first.
Tires on the front of front wheel drive cars wear much faster than on the rear. All tire experts recommend tire rotation every 5 to 6000 miles. Your writers know little about auto tech.
I’ve never heard someone say so much, but so little at the same time.
It's called being American!😂
@@Zuludarkthirty No, it’s called being a TH-camr.
Thanks for saving me some time 😁
It’s called not knowing & repeating some things he heard from someone else who didn’t know.
Starting new technician here, I have met so many ppl coming into the industry with the goal of becoming some of the most loyal mechanics out there and will be honest with you! I see a good change of hands in the near future! As for me a customers is what feeds my family and me, so of course I wanna treat them the best of my ability, and I'm not the only one who sees it this way!
Towards the end you said change oil regularly and in the beginning you said no need to changes oil regularly but rather make sure it’s full.
ah!!! I caught that also!!!
Thanks for this it has saved me wasting more time, I was just going to do a recheck.
"the place where the wires touch the battery", you mean 'terminals'?
I have been fixing other peoples cars since 1972. I have always been honest with my customers and try to get them the best value for their money. I have yet to see rusty brake pads.. rusty rotors, calipers and such are common. I've never added additive to any car unless there actually is a problem such as noisy lifters. Hard to tell if the check engine light is on because of a loose gas cap. Even if you tighten the cap the light won't instantly go out it will reset itself only after multiple starts or if you use a code reader to reset the memory. 80 percent of the check engine lights I see are from plugged up canister purge valves or broken charcoal canisters. If your battery needs a boost and there were no lights left on get yourself a new battery especially if its a few years old. Charging it up will mot magically restore it so go get a new one. No one wants to be sitting with a car load of kids in a parking lot in the dark with a wind chill of -35 and have a dead battery. Also its more important to check your tire air pressure than to have the tires rotated. watch for tire wear and if you see unusual wear find out why. Free checks are good, but don't get that shop to do the work. I've had people bring me a list of what a free check over says they need. Some quotes are maybe as much as $2500.00..... work actually needing done? maybe $1000 sometimes less. Lifetime warranties exist on more than mufflers. Shops know you'll lose the receipt or trade your car so very little ever gets replaced free. Best advice Keep your receipts. Keep a record of when something is fixed. Read your owners manual. If you drove your car in for a check up don't be scared to drive it away and get a second opinion.
@jubjub247 im guessing you are from Punjab
Bruh this dude lost me when he said you dont need to replace oil... and flood a tank by just adding more...and drive on 85 worn breaks gtfoh
90% *
Oil will need change depending on time, mileage and drive habits. All spelled out in your manual.
@@2660mh can't believe the one who wrote the manual. They write the manual in a way to take your money.
Same, he lost me with the changing oil time frame. If you race a car, you best be changing your oil frequently. Or if the car sits for a significant period of time. Change the oil
Instead of simply saying 'follow your owner's manual', he basically said to top up when you are low and leave it burn... WTF?
I will say on the additives, my car has 350,000 and idling rough, I put a can of Sea foam in the gas tank and it runs and idles 90% better than before.
i love seafoam
Funny how when I do the free oil changes and multi-point inspection at the dealership and they don’t find anything since it’s under warranty.
under warranty means your car still new, there should not replace unless they found something (factory defect),
@@chiawaiquen Didn´t detect sarcasm
I did heard that they don’t get paid enough when a car is under warranty. So they pay more attention to the cars that go without warranty.
2:13 " various experts state that the earliest you should worry about an oil change is every 7500 miles" - 7:09 "change your cars oil regularly"
7500 could mean regularly.
I took it to mean "don't forget to do it", for 20,000 Mike's for example.
@3:20, why is the ' mechanic ' messing about with the roll bar drop link?
Most brake noise is caused by dust, not rust... If your pads are rusted your brakes aren't working right, most likely the guide pins that allow the caliper to slide are stuck or frozen up with rust... Have you ever worked as a Tech or Mechanic? I tried to explain to customers what they needed to do to fix their autos but most don't care or want to hear that... Most Techs or Mechanics make $9 to $30 an hour flat rate... The garage owner makes and decides on the cost of repairs... If you bring me a car and to fix said car it takes 1 hour that is set by a standard and I go over by a half-hour, I still only get paid for an hour... The half-hour was free... At most jobs that I know of if you work over you get paid overtime, Techs/Mechanics do not... Have a great day...
And most of the Techs/ Mechanics I know have never lied or cheated a customer...
I'm 67,and I've been doing mechanics for 47 years,and I can tell you that brakes DO rust.
If they get wet,or it's a humid day,and the vehicle isn't driven,every day,the rotors drums shoes,and pads will rust.
When hat happens they make a grinding noise,as they clean themselves of the surface rust....which some shops with lower ethics,use to sell a brake job.
@@johngardner2807 True... But If the vehicle is being driven then it may be dust... Tech/Mech ASE certified since 2003 and worked on them since I was a kid...
If you have FWD or 4WD you do need to rotate tires consistently as the fronts will feather edge due to the drive units. By rotating you maximize the life of your tires.
Even a RWD needs rotation, usually one of the rears will wear faster, and you'll still get feathering on the steers from cornering and such.
If I wanted to mark the tires, it would be some way they wouldn't notice.
The girl under the car at 4:30 took off a bolt that looks like a 15mm with a wrench that’s probably a 24-26 🤔😐
4real
Kenny Werdup I’d sure like to go under there with her a show her the right way!
What car what wrench what bolt
@@Whoflungpouu r/woosh
A girl like that could take my money 🤑
10k miles on an oil change? Thats a good way to destroy an engine. Most modern engines are turbocharged, meaning that they share oil between the two, even top of the line oils breakdown over time and heat. If you have a turbo, 4000-6000 miles is probably a good number.
In addition, depending on the age of the engine and how much blow-by in it, carbon can make its way into the oil. this causes carboxylic acid, that can eat at the brass(babbit) bearings in the engine. That is REALLY BAD. Telling people to go 10k miles on an oil change is irresponsible.
Dirty oil is better than no oil, sure. but filters have a life too. Spend the $100~ every couple months, better than paying $10k for an engine job.
U no listen he said some not all said 10.000 open your ears not your mouth
@@lonipauline1672 10,000 is 10k. I know of no engine that will do 10k on an oil change safely. Did you even read my reply before opening yours?
@UCiTLCOqutD7QVlB8s2H7aMA again, I wouldn't risk it personally. Nor, as an aircraft mechanic and engine builder, would I recommend it. I'd love to run the 120k mile car through a compression check and see exactly how much it's lost. All my vehicles run 6-7k miles on an oil change, except my racecar for obvious reasons. It's one of those "why risk it?" Situations, and recommending 10k as a blanket statement is irresponsible.
Follow the manufacturer's manual.
@@thenewhalogod Lots of engines do 10k between oil changes. Literally millions of them around the world and this is not an exaggeration.
Depends on how much time it takes to cover the miles too. Most modern engines have a built in algorithm and sometimes even sensors to estimate when the oil needs changing and there's not even a set mileage on the manual.
My work van does over 15k miles between oil changes, which is typically around six months.
The cleanliness of your oil doesnt really matter. I just cant co-sign on that statement. Nope.
Wow right? I don't want to buy his old car!
Clean engine oil means it’s not doing the right job and keeping the engine clean inside .
Dirty oil means it’s suspending all the trash in it and doing its job .
Basically , you put in new engine oil all nice and clean , within a few days it’s going black , WHY ? Well what’s happening is that the nice new engine oil which is full of detergents ,is helping clean all the crud out of your engine and suspending it in the oil so it’s not contaminating the components of the engine , if your car has been looked after and had regular oil changes the crud inside will be less so the engine oil stays cleaner for longer.
If your very conscious change your oil every 3000 miles , some vehicles don’t need until on a service plan at 20000 miles , so the oil has been tested to do its job for that length of time . ( bit to long in my opinion)
If you put trash cheap oil in , it will not keep the engine clean inside but will stay cleaner longer so you think Great that’s brilliant oil , but I’m afraid that’s not the case , PS Diesel engine oil goes black straight away due to the amount of soot it is suspending after combustion, but it’s still doing its job .
Hope this helps
@@laverdajota8089 well said.
Sludge!!! Enough said
Most brake pads have a squeaker built in. They are supposed to squeak to let you know they need changed
Good noise to hear vs. grinding roters
My cars brake pads have a wire sensor built into the last leveling of the brake psd
You are right sir. That sound its to let you know you need to change your breakpads.
It’s called an indicator
Take the time and do the job right. Specially brakes. No short cuts.
Can you please elaborate on what you meant by saying "modern cars"? Which years for which makes and models?
idk why but the way you said “oxygen” at 6:01 had me laughing for quite some time
Oxyin-gen😂😂
I was in the tyre industry for 50 years, and tyre rotation does increase tyre life.
*tire
Its not the mechanics that overcharge, its the service advisors. Having been a mechanic and dealing with service advisors, most mechanics just do the work and suggest a fix, the service advisor overcharges and upsells. Dont put the blame on mechanics, we're just doing our job!!
Mostly true but there ARE self-employed mechanics who operate their own shop. I've found a couple of them to be rip-off artists. My wife got swindled by one in Billings, MT when she was on the road for her job.
@@butchstrey8623 very true, the bad apples of the bunch made me want to study and learn about cars so I dont get ripped off or rip customers off. Its just sad that they give the rest of us a bad name.
Same here. I was intimidated, but due to necessity (no extra money) I learned (often on youtube and friebds) and do my own work. I got an 03 saturn & '98 honda civic both for free. I'll put on 500,000 klms on both (currently 270,000 on each car less on 150). I'm 58. I'll have them plus my 302, '86 F150 XL for life.
I cange oil frequently. Wix xp or equivelant x 3000 klms. A few new/used parts. General maintenence. Good FOR 20 years! No oil flushes. MMO in tank. None in engines yet.
David
Alberta
@@davidweum9334 I can relate! I learned about cars so I know enough to know whether or not im getting ripped off, and enough to fix it myself and save on labor costs.
@@davidweum9334 I had a 2000 civic ex, loved that car, I was pretty bummed to see it go, but I have my nice new 4runner that has taken my heart.
Side note on additives, DI only cars will need intake carbon cleaning. Just using gasoline is not going clean them.
DI cars have been around in Europe for decades, doing hundreds of thousands of miles without a carbon clean and still working.
Don't know what is it with Americans and their hard ons for carbon cleaning, someone convinced you that it was necessary because taking engine heads off to clean them up is good business.
The problem with DI is that the fuel won't pass through the intake valve to clean the back side and the injectors can build up carbon
Rotate your tires regularly is very true if you car is a front wheel or rear wheel drive, and I did it every 10k miles with America Tires since I purchased a set of 4 from them for the last 2 sets of tires. I have friends who never rotate their tires and eventually 2 of their tires wore out faster and they will need to replace 2 tires instead of 4, which spend more money in the long run since tire promotion usually go with a set of 4.
But I do have a concern with Decarb where some auto dealership recommending customer that they need one and they will charge for $200+, while I just pour a can of Seafoam into the engine oil and gasoline.
Lead acid batteries; when totally flattened, will only return to 70% of their previous capability. Do it twice, and it's the same again. For easy numbers: a 100ah battery flattened, returns as a 70ah unit. Repeat the flattening gives a 50ah unit. Do it a handful of times, is why you end up with a battery that won't hold enough overnight to start up on a cold morning. Corrosion/ build up on the terminals: maybe? Good maintenance should have seen a dollop of grease/ even vaseline on them to start with really. Wire brush them, tighten up the connectors. This and the grease generally means few battery issues.
Most shops will not allow customers into the service area, claiming this is an insurance issue. It might be, but the more likely reality is that they just don't want the customer watching them. I operated a quick oil change shop for a short time, and we were under a lot of pressure to maximize the revenue from each customer by upselling in any possible way. Some shops, especially dealers, incentivize their service supervisors to upsell through commissions based on service revenue.
Remember, a repair shop cannot do anything that the car's owner didn't authorize, so if you get a recommendation, take the car to another shop for diagnosis and see if that shop reaches the same conclusion. Chances are it won't.
Fuel additives, they are useful especially octane boosters and especially if youre in a state that uses ethanol over 10 percent in the fuel or if you buy lower quality gas that uses heptane as a filler in the fuel , also if you have a turbocharged car or engine with a high compression ratio , (most japanese cars or performance cars) but in order to get the benfits you have to use a obd2 scanner tool to reset the ecu ( hit erase codes) wheter or not check loghts on, add fuel additives to tank then take for a 5 to 10 min drive in freeway using moderate acceleration. The cars ecu will set the ignition timing and cam advance to match the better fuel.
Guys, after tire rotation do I need to do wheel balance or wheel arignment!??
No. But they may try to recommend it. Not needed unless you are buy wider tires and they install them. Very good idea to do a wheel alignment. Otherwise no worries. Hope this helps.
Your front tires can do something your back tires won't...
They turn.
Since they turn, they tend to wear a bit faster than the rear tires.
That's why tire techs say to rotate to get even wear.
No rotation in most cases only wears the front down at around twice the speed of the rears.
Ijs
I have a reliable ,experienced and trust worthy mechanic ,who is nearing retirement age ,and as much as he deserves retirement ,I'm dreading it as finding someone as honest and dependable that I could trust as much will be difficult.
Same thing with me!
Completely biased and untrue opinion
I mean not really tho
Titre rotation just ensures that all the tires wear out evenly
in theory but in real life it does not. i am having to replace tires bought new about 3 years ago and i can assure you they have not worn at the same rate even though i rotated them myself. the drivers side has worn out quicker that the passenger side.
No mention on other subsystems like ? :
Cooling systems : radiator, water pump
Steering and Linkage : steering rack, tie rods, knuckle arm, ball joints, etc
Charging system : alternator
Braking system : master cyllinder, brake booster, fluid pipe lines, proportioning valve, etc.
Ignition system : starter, spark plug and cables, etc.
Fuel system : injector, throttle body, intake manifolds, etc.
I think, when a car owner can mention these stuffs, a mechanic can become a friend to discuss what is going on with his car and find optimal solution.
The oil is the life blood of the car.
You want your car to last a long time? Change the oil/filter sooner than later. Even though my car uses full synthetic, I change every 3,500 miles.
And don’t forget about the transmission.
The transmission is the most expensive system next to the engine. Change the transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
a mechanic had just tried to tell me my torque strut mount had broken off into the transmission casing and needed 1300+ to fix. i ordered the part for $80 and went under the car and my old one was just ready to be replaced no critical problem. they REALLY tried to finesse smh
2:08 idk about this one man I’ve heard many mechanics and automotive engineers say changing it helps prevent oil burning so probably should change it every 5-7k miles
if you use good branded engine oil there should be no oil burning. just compare the level of your engine oil after svc & after 7k miles. unless you drive a turbo car, cause turbo cars normally will drop on the engine oil level a little.
Read the manual.
Chia wai quen lol I’m just extra I guess like I change mine every 3k miles, 224k miles and counting. Still doesn’t burn oil!
Okay for oil, the reason why its set at 3,000 miles/3 months is because the detergant start to break down at time. Yes you can add new oil, but I promise you I've seen 10,000 mile oil and that stuff doesnt not like to come out. When those detergants start to break down they will start depositing gunk, grime and varnish inside the engine. This could go into the pore and clogged them preventing oil going where it needs to. Now saying this, no you dont need to change the oil at 3,000 miles/3 months, because the detergants and other additives are still going to be active, however I personally dont recommend pushing 7,500 on convetional oil, full synthetic, yes. Me personally, I change it at 5,000 for full synthetic and I do and engine flush mid summer to make sure that I get out the gunk, grime and varnish to make sure my engine is running smoothly... take this information as you want. It gets 100x more complicated but it the basic run down
07 Yukon with the AFM engine, run full synthetic and change at 4 to 5k usually before winter and then in spring and maybe middle of summer if I put in enough miles. I'm not dealing with stuck lifters on those engines
4:28 does anybody know what size she's working with
No, but I know she takes all size banknotes from small to big numbers.
Oh and the gas cap being loose allowing oxygen into the lines or tank is not the reason for the check light, the light goes on because the cars ecu monitors the fuel tank pressure /vacuum and indicates when the system is no longer sealed meaning FUEL VAPOR may be escaping into the air hurting the environment and may be a fire hazard
5:58 I guess that is a good thing about my 2012 Ford Taurus, it just has a little flap that you push the nozzle through and don’t have to worry about it
The flap may not be airtight. Maybe you're is. I would be skeptical if you can't clearly see a secure rubber seal.
@5:07 I mark my tires so I know if they are rotated. I use tire chalk.
I grew up in a full service gas station. I became a Manager for Firestone at 21 years old. I never sold something they didn't need. I even got used drums and rotors for struggling people. I would always show the customer. I built up two stores that they were going to close because of low volume. It was the Managers messing up the business. Things like Tie Rods and Center links. Customers would ask how long do you think they will last. Maybe two years and maybe they won't last on your trip home. Those need to be replaced for tire ware and to hold a Alignment. Also to be safe.
The only 'mechanic' to avoid is THIS ONE with his blocked nose advise.
You lost me when you said oxygen gets in the fuel line. Try again.
You are right, it has more to do with pressures in the system.
@@henrynewton8809 My comment was based on that the fuel pickup is on the bottom of the tank, meaning the only way *AIR, NOT* oxygen will get into the fuel lines is when the fuel level gets below the pick up. But yes, you are correct with the pressure differential throwing the code.
Is it bad if there is oxygen in my cylinders?
My mechanic says I should replace the Head Gaskets to fix this.
1. Don't change your oil often
7. Don't use gas or oil additives, just change your oil regularly
...Got it.
Dude tyre rotation helps if you have an FWD or an RWD system if you have a full/ part-time or manual AWD or 4x4 it's not a concern as much. The wear when it comes to the power transfer from shaft to tyres there's a small amount of slip that happens from time to time before they grip and move the vehicle along with the FWD or RWD system putting more pressure than the wheels that are merely following the push or pull puts wear in a more local area.
You can buy a tyre depth gauge for 2 or 5 bucks and check it yourself if you want to check what the tech tells you. If your tyres are more than 3-4
Lucas oil addative helps with noisy liffters . I used it with every oil change until i puchesed a new set of heads. (This is not a miracle fix all. If you tighten your lifters and there still knocking try it. But if theres a serious problem its just a bandaid. ) its worth the 15-20 .just dont add to much oil.
My check engine light has been on for 3 years already laugh out loud
Yeah.. 2 years for me. 🇬🇧
Usually caused by too much ethanol in the fuel
Obd2 readers are cheap my man
@@kirkboivin4357 what a dumb comment....
I'm no longer a car mechanic...I'm too honest.
Cleanliness of the oil doesn’t matter? And the oil evaporated? I got to go back to school to figure out how these things are possible...
probably the same class with that new math
heat will delaminate the glue used to bond the pads to the backing plate so 10 % in my opinion and my family's safety is too thin i feel safer with 25 %. Also when oil change places service your car they top off the brake fluid witch is a no no when the level goes down to the min line the red brake light comes on in the dash indicating the natural pad wear, when the brakes are serviced and everything is in the correct position as new the light will be off again , and also if its topped of when the brakes get serviced and the piston is pushed back the fluid will over flow causing a mess .and if your brake light ie wear indicator light doesnt come on you could damage your rotors, and cost more than just pads.
i think for the free inspection, normally mechanic will tell cust stuff that needed repair due to wear and tear. they dont simply tell cust to replace parts that are still in good condition. everything should be optional but mech should tell the cust what is going to happen if cust dont replace it.
The one with the brake pads screeching is not due to "rust" on the pads. It is because of the composition of the brake pads. About 15 years ago it was mandated that the brake pads should not contain asbestos due to health concerns. Almost every brake pad will screech somewhat depending on the composition. If you have rust dust on the brake pads they will not screech, but have reduced brake ressistance.
They quick fix is just to use lukewarm water and blow the wet dust away with air pressure around the pads, when you change between summer/winter wheels.
I have been told that I need different things done to my car when getting an oil change. First it was the struts were leaking and need replacing. That was three years ago (they still work fine). Then I needed a new head gasket (would cost as much as my car is worth to change). That was two years ago. I don't see any oil leaking on my driveway. My car is 14.5 years old, only had a couple of minor problems that I fixed myself. My first car lasted 24 years without any significant repairs. In fact it still worked just fine, but I retired it and got a new one.
One warning. If you're check engine light is blinking you should really see what the problem is.
BEFORE I CAME HOME FROM ALBERTA MY PARENT'S "HONEST" GARAGE TOLD MY INEXPERIENCED MOTHER HER BRAKES NEEDED CHANGING EACH YEAR AS SHE JUST TOLD THEM TO KEEP HER AND DAD SAFE. WE DID SOME WORK IN ANOTHER GARAGE AND THIS"HONEST GARAGE" WAS SO ANGRY, THE SUMMER TIRES WE CHANGED FROM WINTER, ONE WHEEL HAD NOT ONE LUG TIGHTENED AND IN A COUPLE OF WEEKS THAT WHEEL WAS LITERALLY FALLING OFF THE BASE!!!
i just can’t believe the oil part i change every 3000-5000 miles with the way i drive my car
Yes. The oil will burn off, but the shit in the oil won't. What shit? A: Carbon. It will build up in the engine, and it will slowly degrade your engine in terms of power and efficiency.
@@dominicwong6592 question. If it is a closed loop sysyem(oil in, cap on, "closed") where does the oil evaporate to? I'm not a car mechanic so I'm curious.
@@Twoxerofour it is not a close loop system. The engine has to let air (oxygen) in, burn in chamber, let exhaust out from engine.
Oil is there to lubricate moving parts and turbo, as well as piston in the chamber. But it will stick to the walls of the combustion chamber to allow lub for the piston. So, it gets burn off during the combustion cycle.
Change it that often if you want, oil and filters are cheap, engines are not. People who say to change it at long intervals probably will gladly sell you a new engine.
Every car comes with a book with specs that recommend service intervals for every kind of part on the car. Just look at that folks.
Man he sure makes it out like every mechanic is just a schmuck.... I don't know where he's from or what he's been dealing with but I've been a mechanic for over 26 years and I'm always trying to find ways to save my customers money not raise their hood and bulshit with them and say they need this that and the other, when they don't... I go out of my way to fix things at the best price possible without them having to pay out the ass... I even give them my discount I get at the parts store which is supposed to be for shops to make a little extra on parts... almost all of the time my customers get my discount.... sometimes I may mark something up $1 which it would still be way under walk-in cost.... I even do things on credit for people and let them make payments if they can't afford a big job up front....like head gasket or something major...
7 secrets to keep us up at 2 am
3.50 am
2:26am
1:00 am
Fun fact it's 2:07 cst
I bought a battery from AutoZone. About 18 months later it was not "holding a charge" so I said go ahead and change it out. I went to pay for it and the guy said
You are under Warranty so NO CHARGE. Surprised and Pleased, but mostly Surprised !!
5 inspections are important to catch small problems before they become major a stitch in time saves nine , replacing a coolant hose or leaking radiator is much cheaper than paying for an engine rebuild because of blown head gasket . Plus the tow to a repair facility.
6 Tire rotations mark the tires great ! But front to back is not the only way it they get rotated depending on if youre vehicle is front wheel drive rear wheel drive or 4 wheel /awd the tires get moved in different ways ,
Pull up to discount tire we do free rotation and rebalances
My Car has a long life service and will last at least 20000. My current car tells me it needs and oil change in 17,600 miles or 623days. The dealer said I should only bring it in for a service when the car says it need it done. One of my last 2 car was also on longlife service only had one service in the 3 years of my ownership,at 2 years. My last car did not have the longlife service plan and after the 1st service I had them change it to longlife service so again i only had one service in 3 years.
Cars were so much nicer to own 50 years ago without diagnostics.
A lot of times they say your car needs repair when dont. They recomends services you dont need and some times the services dont get done but still you get charged for them. One thing you can do is read your owners manual to know when services are needed.
Meh, I'll stick to servicing and maintaining my vehicles thanks. The only time I had an engine light issue was an egr valve clogging up and failing.
THAT was a headache and considering the ridiculous quotes I received to get someone else to replace or clean it, I did a little research, removed the original and broke it while ATTEMPTING to clean it, replaced it with a new one from ebay and reset the ecu all for less than $50.
Haven't had any problems since.
Dirty oil will damage VVT solonoids
Yup.
Some of the screens on vvt solonoids have the tiniest of holes. Doesn't take much dirt to clog up those screens and restrict flow.
Completely ruins vvt solonoids.
So true, solenoids and phasers.
Very true
I was told by a mechanic ,who test drove and not look at my 2007 Kia Sedona , needed a new steering . I went to store and got some spray and found the rusted bolts to the steering and steering wheel worked fine after that .
The fact about the gas cap was correct.
Yeah. Change your twin turbo gdi engine oil every 10,000 miles. Even more so if you take very short trips. Let me know how that works out for you after a long time.
On older vehicles you can go longer without a oil change, but it all depends really on the filter. Certain filters can go 10 to 20k miles. But on new cars I hear more often the better because of the electronic systems and sensors. I'd change it regularly on a newer vehicle, but on 80s and behind you can prob go 5 to 7 up to you. I try to do mine every 5k and with a napa gold or wix filter. filter quality matters as well as the oil. spend money now or later. (not a mechanic i just like maintance.
with any vehicle oil is not a such problem, nowdays good branded oils are good indeed, what people may not know about is how important is to buy high quality oil filter. Because cheapest filter can break apart thus pieces of it can end up all over your enginge block, clogging small holes used to lubricate your engine components, that can lead to disaster. So if anyone runs car with longer oil change intervals its always better to buy quality oil filter. Regards
@@CroIntr00X yes
I've found that crusts of rust on the OUTER RIM of brake discs (called brake rotors in the US) can cause a scratching noise. The rust can easily be knocked away by tapping gently with a hammer or using a wire brush. Then blow away the rust before using the car, so it doesn't cause any problems.
Dirty oil can block piston holes.... to say it doesnt matter??
Dirty engine oil that evaporates leaves residue in the engine which can cause the engine to fail
Every so often maybe every other month maybe once a month especially if you are can go to any gas station get some dry gas and add it to a full tank this will get rid of any moisture in your gasoline or diesel and you’ll be amazed at how much better your car could potentially run it only takes a few drops of water to re-Kavic on a car I personally like to use seafoam or heat.
The mechanic at the dealership made some "adjustments" on my Subaru during a "free inspection". He over-tightened the fan belt which would have caused the failure of the bearings in the alternator and the water pump. He also unplugged the thermostat on the electric radiator fan which would have resulted in overheating of the cooling system.
Toyota dealer didn't tighten filter and lost all the oil before got home. This is one reason not to take your car to dealership. Plus they will find lots of things that actually don't need repairing.
Fan belt ? I think you mean pulley belt, because there are a few pulleys arranged with the belt.
and one thing flush your power steering fluid and coolint everytime you replace because their is still old and bad fluid still in their also with brake fluid
Any oil with over 3k miles is when it starts burning which is why car enthusiasts change there oil regularly you don’t want to mix new and old oil it’s like mixing gas and diesel
Eclipse not only that, that also usually when oil filters should be changed out too
You own a Jiffy Lube franchise, don't you? LOL.
Wait if I'm supposed to change my oil every 7500 miles how's that regularly
James Garrison I think he went on random TH-camrs channels and took very Lil advice and said hmmm interesting
If you have always used Mobile 1 full syn with filter change 7500miles great!! I've driven same car daily for 16years Feb will b 17 years and I've only used Mobile1 full syn 10w30 and Motocraft filters at 7500miles my oil is clean on stick!! Never had to add between changes but do check weekly!!
Do whatever the manufacturer says too. Who knows more about the vehicle? The people who spent years engineering and designing it, or some youtuber?
I gave up dirty oil and oil changes 56 years ago. At the present I am using Motor Guard and Gulf Coast bypass filters. The trick is to use a good oil and never let it get dirty. Your oil is supposed to stay clean. Your filter is supposed to get dirty and be changed. If you watch this site you know what good oil is.
@@scottyjones27 thats fine if your using a full synthetic but if your not the breakdown point for the oil is 3500-4500 miles
Another pro tip is if you drive a diesel truck that requires DEF fluid never ever buy the fluid they sell in the store unless you can 110% guarantee that it hasn’t been sitting there for months or weeks because once they are sitting there for that long and you put it in your DEF system it’s gonna fuck your shit up a mechanic in fact a diesel only mechanic who is successful enough to have a toolbox that cost nearly $250,000 and has a fucking staircase on it gave me that advice he recommends to only ever find your DEF fluid directly from a gas station
Some of what you say is true. However I know many honest mechanics.
Check engine light only refers to one set of problems and that has to do with admissions and the reason why the gas cap being loose sits off the engine light is because they don’t want your gas vapors to escape this is set up by the EPA and there’s nothing about oxygen getting in your tank because most tanks are vented but it Hass to go through a charcoal box so the vapors are caught and burned in your engine
That girl is not a mechanic! Lol
I should change her oil
Mike National 😂😂😂 right
They showed a chick because of the "Women can do men things agenda" that's being pushed. They want to reverse men and women's roles in society. This is subliminal messaging.
@@cryptomaniac2 Is that also why they made sure her bra was showing in that plaid tied up shirt?
Needs servicing regularly.
Battery when it loses its charge
Means its 12.67v whith no load and car is off when u start the engine (the starter works and stalls ) voltage drops below 11.8v means 1 cell inside the battery is damaged and needs a new battery.
Brake pads only be changed when the car doesn't decelerate quickly and when sharp squeaks noises comes out .
All cars have a secret buttons pattern to reset the error codes shown on instrument cluster .
I did that on Mercedes clk 320
And jeep wrangler . Each has it's own way to reset it and the mechanic can easily charge for reset procedure for 150$.
WHEN YOU BUY A BATTERY FROM WALMART THEY WONT SHOW THE BATTERY BUILD DATE THEY SAY JUST GO FROM YOUR RECEIPT STILL HAS OLD BUILD DATE AND IN STOCK LIFE
NEVER go 10,000 miles without a oil change. What’s cheaper? A $30 oil change or a new engine? I’m a mechanic and even in my car that says to change the oil every 6000 miles I still change it every 3000 miles, it just helps prevent any kind of sludge buildup.
The chick mechanic at 4:30 can work on my engine anyyytime and if she wants to find a reason to stay under my hood...she is the expert...lmaooooo
Those female mechanics have too many clothes on!
In the first tip I usually sand it down or scratch the rods to allow conduction
Dont you make us look bad, we aint all like dat
All of my cars had the check engine light. They ran perfectly fine. I need a MAF sensor tho haha.
Then your car is not running right nob.
Ok, for the oil statement. It depends on the oil you use. Conventional or synthetic. Conventional should be done every 3-5k miles and the synthetic should be done every 5-10k miles. Please look in my responses for more accurate information!
The tire rotation is true if you don't see it, feel free to lable it. Other than the fact it does wear more quickly on the drive tires and also the front because of the turning of the wheels.
The battery one is partly true, the terminals can corrode and have build up, you can clean it and try again, but if it does still keep giving you issues, buy a new battery or get it looked at because your alternator may be going out as well!
Brake rotors wil have some rust on them when the car has not been driven for a while moreso if has rained. The rust come off after you brake a few times.
Most professional car technicians are honest. It is not worth being found out to be dishonest and loose valuable clients.
7 secrets car owners don't know,? Skip all that crap and find yourself a good guy who works from his home, no high overheads, he won't overcharge you because ne needs you to come again for your next service.
and to add, find a trusted person at the first place...simply because i had experiences with some mechanic that i went to fix one thing, while they doing (undoing) parts they fucked up few other parts and didn't told me about it..this can lead you to dangerous problems, while parts they damaged didn't cost vritually nothing..just saying honesty at the first place..