You do not need silicone. What you need is Lifeguard o-ring silicone lubricant. Also dump the cheap ABS bulkheads and get the Sch 80 bulkheads. They cost about $5 more but will not fail. You could also go full bore and get viton seals. Viton seals with sch 80 bulkheads will never fail.
Good point as to Schedule 80 bulkheads and LifeGuard silicone lubricant (more so the lubricant). However the silicone protects these ABS bulkheads seals well (at least 30 years if properly applied). I had a few that I used this silicone method in 1978 that were still doing well in 2002 when I sold the maintenance route. I have not found a problem with the bulkhead, rather the seal, which the silicone or the Lifeguard lubricant will help protect
Lasco fittings a big company that makes pvc fittings and pipe and such says to not use teflon tape on pvc threaded fitting but instead use a sealant such as the teflon pipe dopes. The tape increases the size of the male fitting putting to much pressure on the female fitting and leads to failure. I have started using the teflon type pipe dope.
I was wondering if you could use the silicon lubricant as he got to that part. Thanks, that's the stuff that keeps my swimming pool equipment from leaking without setting up to being permanent.
I’ve been doing aquariums for a long time, and I’ve always been told and read to never use silicone in bulkheads, as well as Teflon tape. Most of the problems with bulkheads leaking or failing is over tightening. If you over tighten the nut, your squishing, not squeezing the o-ring. Then fissures develops in the rubber, which then the threads start getting weak, which then starts making the walls of the nut to deteriorate, then the nut splits. The o-ring prevents water seeping into the thread valleys.
Thanks for the video man. I have a 180g tank I got that was predrilled and I thought about just closing it off but I think I’ll use this method with my 3 Fx6 filters
Thanks man this video really help me out just bought a 75 with sump holes an was trying to see an Easy way to connect my canister filter instead of covering up sump holes with silicone an glass
Very interesting method. On your website you discuss using bulkheads to supply canister filters in a little more detail, but I'm curious about one very important detail that was left out of the article. When talking about the method of using a single bulkhead to supply two canister filters it says, understandably, the returns should be separate for each filter, but how do you go about sizing a shared intake bulkhead for canister filters? Would a 1-in. intake be sufficient for two canisters that use a 1/2-in. return?
I've found way to many variables including siphon effect, distance, turns in the pipe, etc. to give any exact number as it can vary greatly. I personally used the AAP (16B) Heavy Duty ABS Bulkhead, 1" Thread x Thread in most applications which can allow as high as 900 gph from my experience
Got a question... I purchase a 180 gal. tank and I have an Fx6 and Fx4 I'm doing freshwater... according to the diagram above is it ok to connect them together or is it better to run them separately? My tank has 4 2" holes that were drilled on both bottom sides of the tank near the back...
@@carlstrohmeyer ok great... I'm heading out to the plumbing supply shop... Now I know to get the Sch 80 bulkheads but I read that someone said to use viton seals which are better than using silicone... What is a name of a good ball valve to use?
@@drynalove8184 This image simply shows one way to perform this, which has worked well for many professional builds over the years, but I am sure you could many ways to do this. I will note that there are really not that many attachments other than the bulkheads, valves, strainers and pvc piping.
I got a used 140 gallon tank that was already drilled. Never had a drilled tank before. Thanks for the info. Though I will say, whoever I bought the tank from had gaskets on both sides of the tank and a lot of silicon gooped all over the place and it failed. Cleaning that silicon off of the glass has proven to be a pain in the ass. Any recommendations for this? I've tried 9% vinegar and on another try, 50% isopropyl alcohol. No help.
I have a 300gal and it has 2 overflows on each sides... I'm using a Fx6 and Fx4... but I notice I have to keep putting water on the side the Fx6 is on why is that? There are no leaks
Canister filters are best used ina direct hard plumb, not for a sump. You might be getting more intake of air on this side. Suggested Reading: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#canistertrouble
@@Ajcooln Overflows are associated with sumps, not sure how you could properly have the sealed canister filter system properly connected to an overflow, maybe there in lies the issue
Never use silicone with a bulkhead. They're designed to be used without any other sealants. I can't tell you how many I see that leak when silicone is added. Putting it on the locknut side only guarantees I have to cut it off and charge the customer more. Rubber seal on the water side hand tight plus a tiny bit with a wrench. You'll never have problems.
This is actually an old timer trick taught to me, and I then used in 100s of applications with 100% positive/better results. The key is a small amount. What I think you are missing is the point of the silicone is to act like an additional gasket, NOT seal the bulkhead. When I would tear down the aquarium such as for moving the results proved themselves and the silicone gasket was easy to remove. The only reason this is even remotely controversial is the lack of respect in our current social media driven society for those with long time actual experience, everybody nowadays is an internet expert.
I was taught the "tip" of using silicone as a secondary gasket many years back. After following this tip, I had these applications well outlast those what I did not follow this tip
You do not need silicone. What you need is Lifeguard o-ring silicone lubricant. Also dump the cheap ABS bulkheads and get the Sch 80 bulkheads. They cost about $5 more but will not fail. You could also go full bore and get viton seals. Viton seals with sch 80 bulkheads will never fail.
Good point as to Schedule 80 bulkheads and LifeGuard silicone lubricant (more so the lubricant). However the silicone protects these ABS bulkheads seals well (at least 30 years if properly applied). I had a few that I used this silicone method in 1978 that were still doing well in 2002 when I sold the maintenance route. I have not found a problem with the bulkhead, rather the seal, which the silicone or the Lifeguard lubricant will help protect
Lasco fittings a big company that makes pvc fittings and pipe and such says to not use teflon tape on pvc threaded fitting but instead use a sealant such as the teflon pipe dopes. The tape increases the size of the male fitting putting to much pressure on the female fitting and leads to failure. I have started using the teflon type pipe dope.
I was wondering if you could use the silicon lubricant as he got to that part. Thanks, that's the stuff that keeps my swimming pool equipment from leaking without setting up to being permanent.
I’ve been doing aquariums for a long time, and I’ve always been told and read to never use silicone in bulkheads, as well as Teflon tape. Most of the problems with bulkheads leaking or failing is over tightening. If you over tighten the nut, your squishing, not squeezing the o-ring. Then fissures develops in the rubber, which then the threads start getting weak, which then starts making the walls of the nut to deteriorate, then the nut splits. The o-ring prevents water seeping into the thread valleys.
Thanks for the video man. I have a 180g tank I got that was predrilled and I thought about just closing it off but I think I’ll use this method with my 3 Fx6 filters
There you go. Glad the video helped.
Thanks man this video really help me out just bought a 75 with sump holes an was trying to see an Easy way to connect my canister filter instead of covering up sump holes with silicone an glass
Very glad it helped!
Did the plugging hold?
Very interesting method. On your website you discuss using bulkheads to supply canister filters in a little more detail, but I'm curious about one very important detail that was left out of the article. When talking about the method of using a single bulkhead to supply two canister filters it says, understandably, the returns should be separate for each filter, but how do you go about sizing a shared intake bulkhead for canister filters? Would a 1-in. intake be sufficient for two canisters that use a 1/2-in. return?
Yes, this is generally what I used
Where can I purchase a bulkhead? I do everything as described and it still leaks down threads of the bulkhead
Here is a link:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/apps/search?q=bulkhead
Very helpfull subbed.how much water 1 inch bulkhead can overflow or 1 1/2 inch bulkhead can flow .I'm wanna drill my tank on back .
I've found way to many variables including siphon effect, distance, turns in the pipe, etc. to give any exact number as it can vary greatly. I personally used the AAP (16B) Heavy Duty ABS Bulkhead, 1" Thread x Thread in most applications which can allow as high as 900 gph from my experience
Carl Strohmeyer .thanks budd
very informative thanks
+Arthur Andrews very welcome!
Got a question... I purchase a 180 gal. tank and I have an Fx6 and Fx4 I'm doing freshwater... according to the diagram above is it ok to connect them together or is it better to run them separately? My tank has 4 2" holes that were drilled on both bottom sides of the tank near the back...
I would connect them separately based on experience!
@@carlstrohmeyer ok great... I'm heading out to the plumbing supply shop... Now I know to get the Sch 80 bulkheads but I read that someone said to use viton seals which are better than using silicone... What is a name of a good ball valve to use?
@@Ajcooln The Quality Marine version sold by AAP is what I use. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PlumbingParts.html#bulkheads
Hows the 180 going im about to set mine up is why im askin
I want to be able to guide plumb my canister filters into the drilled tank, what exact materials do I need?
This article might help: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/images/graphics/250gaquariumplumbing.jpg
I will look into it
All that link is an image, can it be done directly without all the extra attachments?
@@drynalove8184 This image simply shows one way to perform this, which has worked well for many professional builds over the years, but I am sure you could many ways to do this. I will note that there are really not that many attachments other than the bulkheads, valves, strainers and pvc piping.
I got a used 140 gallon tank that was already drilled. Never had a drilled tank before. Thanks for the info. Though I will say, whoever I bought the tank from had gaskets on both sides of the tank and a lot of silicon gooped all over the place and it failed. Cleaning that silicon off of the glass has proven to be a pain in the ass. Any recommendations for this? I've tried 9% vinegar and on another try, 50% isopropyl alcohol. No help.
Only a little silicone needs to be used. I would try a razorblade.
I have a 300gal and it has 2 overflows on each sides... I'm using a Fx6 and Fx4... but I notice I have to keep putting water on the side the Fx6 is on why is that? There are no leaks
Canister filters are best used ina direct hard plumb, not for a sump. You might be getting more intake of air on this side. Suggested Reading: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#canistertrouble
It's hard plum... not in a sump
@@Ajcooln Overflows are associated with sumps, not sure how you could properly have the sealed canister filter system properly connected to an overflow, maybe there in lies the issue
What size bulkhead would I need for 1 1/2 hole?
Nathan, check out the first link in the details section of this video, it has your answer there
Never use silicone with a bulkhead. They're designed to be used without any other sealants. I can't tell you how many I see that leak when silicone is added. Putting it on the locknut side only guarantees I have to cut it off and charge the customer more.
Rubber seal on the water side hand tight plus a tiny bit with a wrench. You'll never have problems.
Bit of a debate on this one. We've seen problems only with to much is used. Light coat has worked well for us!
This is actually an old timer trick taught to me, and I then used in 100s of applications with 100% positive/better results. The key is a small amount.
What I think you are missing is the point of the silicone is to act like an additional gasket, NOT seal the bulkhead. When I would tear down the aquarium such as for moving the results proved themselves and the silicone gasket was easy to remove.
The only reason this is even remotely controversial is the lack of respect in our current social media driven society for those with long time actual experience, everybody nowadays is an internet expert.
You put the gasket on the wrong side. It MUST go on the inside and the nut on the outside.
That's what we did and the picture shown also shows the gasket on the inside, nut on the outside
No silicone, no double seal....(sorry)
If you saying not to use silicone, this isn't correct based on 1000s of applications. The ones with double seals lasted far longer. Decades.
I was taught the "tip" of using silicone as a secondary gasket many years back. After following this tip, I had these applications well outlast those what I did not follow this tip