Hi Joey, these were the type of videos that originally got me following you. Please start making more of these types of DIY videos again as that's what made you king of DIY.
I really loved these type of tutorial videos and miss them a lot, where you actually taught a lot of useful things to do with aquariums and made the hobby interesting. Compared to your current videos, these were more interesting.
Instead of using an aqua lifter, you can use a power head with an air intake. This will double up for flow through the tank as well as ensuring the overflow is primed in the event of a power outage. Have used this method on many overflows in the past and it works well.
pretty simple, you get a power head that has an air connection on it, take the air hose and plug it into the top of the overflow. the power head clicks on after the power outage and syphons the water out of the overflow. works well.
Well I had my doubts. It didn't work well at first, BUT after I figured out that my issue was air leaking in (during dry fit testing) and I played with the tubes to get a better seal...... Whoosh! Serious flow bro! Thanks!
Still having great success with the original version of this overflow. I don't really mind the 2 pipes and some fish actually use it as shelter during lights out. I've had great flow for months and it's silent. I also put a PVC elbow on the intake then stuck a filter intake screen in that to protect fish from being swallowed. This also make this overflow extremely quiet. Great vid!
Hey bro. I just want to say thanx. I made your first overflow and had hardly any flow at all and just upgraded it with this. I just drilled my holes instead of slotting it and it works exactly as you said. Thanx again!!!!!
Just like to say thank you for this video King of DIY! Just finished the upgrade for my 120 gallon oscar tank- The return pump is 700 gph and after some tweaks is handling the flow no problem - saved me from drilling the tank - Thanks again! Keep 'em coming!
I made an excellent overflow by putting a bulkhead in an old hanging filter. It has it's own suction with weir and you can use the pump to get flow started. Works perfectly and if you lose power siphon automatically breaks so no overfill.
You must 100% move the T up higher to stop the overflow from emptying the pipe and losing prime. After a several minute power outage and the pump turns back on, it floods out t the tank the way you have this built. I know cause I built several trying to get it right and the T was the issue to
Mine works fine the way it shows in the video. Instead of a check valve, I ran it to a powerhead air intake that I have. Anytime there is a power failure, when everything turns back on the powerhead clears out the air pocket in the overflow and it take off again. Also, I put a small hole in the return line just below the water surface so if there is ever a back syphon to the sump, it will only drain water back until that little hole is breathing in air. Double redundancy, and best of all --- NO WET CARPET!
First thing, this system works great. One problem that you didn't cover with this Overflow is what happens during a power outage. Yes your water will stop on the siphon side but if your return line is still below that point, it will continue on the return side. The way i fixed this problem was to drill a small hole on the return line at the same level as the siphon side. If you dont then your sump with overflow on to the floor. Might want to cover that side of this project as well if you haven't already. BTW great channel Thanks.
Built this style and it works like a CHARM. Thank you so much for getting me into this. I went from a guy not knowing about sizing, PVC pipes, and how this style of filtration to actually knowing something and putting this all together. I even modified it to be more quieter as well so it works (put an drilled end cap on the stand pipe and a slip coupling to reduce the sound.
No it isn't but there are videos that show how to combat the noise of this (since its the water falling down the pipe). With the drilled holes you see there there is a solution to this using a stockman standpipe with the proper materials you can make on your own. There are a few videos, you should look into it!
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Yeah I know about stockman standpipe solution but I don't think you can apply it to this overflow weir design.
You can, but you have to put an endcap at the top of the pipe. You have to drill the endcap so the intake tube can fit in there. Let me know if you have any questions.
2 years ago I built a Weir for my tank just to hide a heater, pump, and chemi pure. today I built this overflow and added a sump and skimmer to my tank finally. it works perfect, Thank you so much
The version I made for my old 55gal tank was the same as the first with a different modification. I wanted it to pull water from lower in my aquarium and these designs only pull water from the top. So I just raised the "T" to the top of the "U" bend setting it were I wanted the water level to be at in the tank at the halfway point, then put a strainer from an old hob on the intake pipe that hangs inside the tank. It worked very well without issues. So for those wanting another design that does the exact same thing you can make it like this too.
I used a 3" weir'd setup with 1" lines. My hope and logic tells me more surface skimming! 😀 I did add a pvc ball valve and a union before sump input to aid in starting the prime and working on sump in the future. Now I just have to install flooring throughout the house lol! Thanks for the easy diy video Retail cost in USA was approximately $80 for all pvc, valve, unions, fittings... Now I just need to paint 🤣
Great video... But i was wondering if instead of using an airpumpe, hooking up an Diffusor from the return line would work to. and be completely automatic?
Love your work and vids. They have become crucial to my next big sump build for 2x2ft and 2x4ft tanks. All plumbed together. If I may add. The only addition I have looked to make, at the top of the overflow, where you drill in the air pipe, drill the other end into the inlet. Creating a venturi, so the airlift pump isn't required
Absolutely perfect! best improvement ever on my 55 African Cichlid tank. I used 3/4" inside 2" and a 18 gallon sump, thanks for all your videos! I just started back in the hobby this April after a 35 year time off.
Any opinions on doing this that connects 12 guppy breeding tanks? All will have overflows that connects to big pvc going down to the sump, and a pump split that returns to every tank.
Nicely done... I'm going to try this out on my 55gal this weekend... I was thinking of drilling my tank but this is definitely look much nice... Lots of positives with only the priming seems like an issue but I got muscle sitting on my shoulder waiting to be used! :) THE KING OF DIY - Advice was appreciated... Keep up the solid work, I would buy your book if i had the extra $$$...
Great idea! but theoretically this hole for suction cup can cause water leak if it will be ill-fitting and pump fail. It will be better to avoid this hole for suction cup, but it was noticed before. Really good job, easy and eficient.
Working perfectly fine. Great video thanks a ton. Just one question after all the fittings have been done , is there any to remove the pipe(inlet) inside the aquarium for cleaning purpose?
This is a very simple overflow to follow, i was just wondering if it is necessary to have the pcv go straight to the bottom of the tank, or perhaps lets say half the length of the tank?
Thank you so much for this idea. I followed your instruction to the letter and it works awesome. Quick question however. How am I able to make the vent pipe quieter?
Glorious! I foresee 4 changes I would make for my application, though it would require a special kind of pump... 1. Allow the overflow tube to take out water from the bottom of the aquarium, as the majority of detritus will normally coalesce at this point in the water column. 2. Add a fail-closed valve to the overflow line before it reaches the sump. This valve should be governed by a depth sensor in the upper level of the sump. The valve will close once the water level hits it, thus preventing the sump from overflowing in the event the pump fails. 3. Include a 2nd fail-closed valve just before or after the 1st that is set to trigger when the electrical mains are interrupted, so as to prevent a similar incident to "2" from occurring during a power outage. 4. Have 2 depth sensors: 1 sitting just above the pump intake within the sump, the other stationed just inside the upper lip of the aquarium. These will be connected to the pump. When the water level either leaves the sump sensor exposed, or the tank sensor submerged, the pump is triggered to shut off to stop it from either cavitating (not enough water in sump) or overfilling the aquarium (overflow intake clogged, etc.). EDIT: In place of "2" and "3", a hole could be drilled in the length of the intake within the aquarium, just below your desired water level. When the level of water falls to the height of the hole, air should rush into the siphon and "break" the flow. Ok... my head hurts.
For number 1 I prefer the intake at the top because A. it lets me keep the water in the tank a specific level, B. it cleans the top of the water and I have an exposed top tank, and C if you have a planted tank you don't want to take the detritus out from the bottom unless you fish plant ratio is way to high. Those other things are great ideas though.
+Jeff K The suction cup hole is in the bigger pipe which doesn't go anywhere. Its not risky at all since the small pipe is the one taking in the water to the sump.
the level of the water is decided by the lowest hole in the bigger pipe. It should be on the top, but if the suction cup hole is not sealed, water will enter from there, so that will be the lowest hole. Sure, the return pump will greatly compensate the little leak, but if it stops the aquarium will be drained.
+roby p The hole isn't going to provide enough water for the siphon to continue. The weir will drain and allow the siphon to break before that tiny hole can refill the weir. Even so, always test your work under supervision so you don't have a catastrophe because you thought it was right.
+Jeff K Even if that were the case just take some silicone and run it around the back of the suction cup and pipe. Impossible problem indefinitely solved.
Did you fill the pipe before turning upside down inside the weir? If you didn't, it won't start (if I am not mistaken). Others here can let me know if I am correct.
Hi Joey, I just built this overflow but I’m struggling to get it primed. Would you have any instructions for me please? I cap it on the bottom, fill it with water and when I uncap it it stops. Thank you
Glad you're finally revealing the new series. That's exciting! So this one is set up as a siphon style. This should have much more flow since there are less bends. If the pump stops, even though more water isn't overflowing into the tank won't the siphon still be removing water until it drains the overflow tube down to where the opening of the siphon is? Then, when the pump starts up again, the water will be filling up but I don't think the overflow will be primed. The Aqualifter will help keep the siphon when running but, in this case, I don't think it'll be capable of priming the overflow. I'm bringing up these concerns because I want to build this! This is a much better looking overflow and similar to how I modified the old design but having the two pipes is unsightly and I was concerned about flow rates. Krylon Fusion is awesome for these projects! Thanks Joey.
+The king of DIY Hey Joey. I'm working on assembling this project and have an interesting question for you. Why do we need to raise up the T connector that's on the end of the system, the one that connects the "vertical vent" to the pipe leading to the sump? We have a 90 elbow right before the T but if we cut out that last elbow wouldn't we be able to save a slight amount of resistance? (shorter pipe, less plumbing). The middle Part of the T could be pointed towards the pipe leading to the tank instead of the sump, the top goes to the vertical vent and the bottom leads to the sump. I think I've answered the question myself but want to confirm. Doing this would that break the siphon (likely just after it is formed from being primed) by preventing the water from remaining on the bottom side of the overflow.
Have an issue? cant get it to work? HERE IS THE FIX: I have been answering questions on this project for years now.. and no longer will. Its the same answer again and again... the #1 answer that solves 99% of all issues is this: PAY ATTENTION TO THE VIDEO. 99% simply do not follow the instructions or build it the same way, yet expect it to still work. The other 1% have an air leak somewhere. Find it. Seal it. Sorry, but i simply do not have the time to keep answering the same questions, when they all result with this same solution. IF YOU MUST get help, POST A PHOTO to my fan page so i can at least SEE what the problem is. I will not be able to help otherwise. facebook.com/UaruJoey Original video ► goo.gl/4EU9ZXHow it all works ► goo.gl/L1Fg7MThe modified and upgraded version ► goo.gl/ZGRtXj
I have a question thats not in the video. I want to do this but I want to also keep my water line above the trim of my tank. That means the slots for the weir could be at most about 1/2 of an inch. Is that too short of a slot. Would it work or should I just the cut the pipe off at the top a afix a screen to the hole?
Yes and no. It would work, but if your return pump failed you could have a mess. The back of the biocube has inlets that are halfway down the tank, so that's how far it would drain.
Both this and the 'original' design have their specific 'niche' applications. I use the original design (with ball valve added to the drain pipe connection) for water exchanges with aged (Municipal) water, (rather than a constant water exchange system). The original design is better at 'skimming' the occasional bacterial surface film (which might form if you accidentally overfeed). straight down the drain. --The design presented in this video however, merely concentrates that film at the base of its larger in tank 'well' and when shut off during periods of non use allows all of that trapped bacterial film to redistribute across the take surface again.
An awesome design...My 75 gallon main & 20 gallon sump build prototype works great. Can't wait to get it all finished. Love the weir. Can't say enough about it. - Road Dog 1
Thanks Joey, I've been wanting to increase my flow rate. I did have the fish getting sucked down problem, but it was a simple fix, I just capped just below the water line, well it was more of a ring that slipped over the top, but it did the job pefectly. This idea is much better for the overflow. Thanks again!!!!!!!
Must say I enjoy your DIY and have done quit a few of them. I am setting up a 160 gallon tank (keeping Koi's) planning on putting 2 on each end of the tank your corner Super Charge corner sponge filter, but also wanted to add in the center your overflow project that will go to a sump and return via pump. Question, is the position of the overflow best in the center since I'm planning the sponge filters. thanks for your advice.
Any suggestions from the internet world on how to reduce the noise from the water going over my weir and down the oversized pipe? I made this setup using 3/4" and my stand pipe is 1 1/2" (double the size). I'm doing a good job on the balanced water level (about 1" above the base of the notches in the top of the oversized pipe). But I'm getting a lot of noise from this part of the overflow. Do I need more notches, bigger notches, less notches? Should the oversized stand pipe be full of water or is it always a waterfall effect across the weir and down to the suction location? Thanks in advance. Oh... and from experience make sure your suction cups on the oversized stand pipe are sealed watertight into the hole. I unplugged the system, went out for an hour and had a spill because water was getting in through the suction cup location. Live and learn :-)
I am having the same problem now and it is making crazy. I cannot figure out how to fix the loud noise of it running down the weir. Did you find a fix?
What a simple but great design. I have been looking for a way to build something without drilling the tank, but limits the amount of water that back. This will work perfectly.
Excellent Work mate, I am about to build one as i am in the process of establishing a Sump system, i have 125gal display tank , 40 gal breeder for the sump , how much flow this will provide, what size of a lift pump should goes with it and how tall the baffles should be ! Thanks in advance
Hey Joey, thanks so much for taking the time to put together and share your videos. I've built my overflow following your diy video. I did opt to omit the optional air tube with the pump you mentioned, primarily to keep the cleanest look but also one less thing to buy and contend with. Without it, it is performing just fine with no loss of siphon issues I will say my unit is quite loud with a gurgling noise, is that because I did not use the optional airline? Thanks again for sharing.
Just modified the original and added in the weir. Working great so far and just as quiet as the last. I'll have to make the holes bigger I think because the water is dropping really far
Did you figure out how to prime it? I am having the same problem. I fill the pipe and uncap it, but it just drains out all the water from that pipe and is not overflowing water from my tank. Do you need the aqua lifter pump for it to work? It looks like in the video that he doesn't have it attached but it primes without any issue. My design is identical except I drilled holes in my weir because I don't have a tablesaw.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR PUTTING THIS OUT THERE! once I glued everything into place it worked flawlessly. have it going down into my wet/dry filter that you ALSO showed us how to make! you're the best!
@@oval291 will this work if you do not glue the pieces together? I've been doing a dry run (without glue), and cannot get it to siphon or stay running. Thanks.
When you make this, you make 2 for redundancy so can you run a splitter off you aqualifter pump to sustain primes on both overflows? As long as you put a check valve?
Great video as i'm looking to convert my fresh water tank to an reef tank, but I only have 5 cm space behind my tank &have an overhang lip on inside off tank off 7 cm which over flow boxes won't fit, but have little holes in each corner of tank for pipe work this method will do nicely
Hi Joey, are you presently still running your overflow with the Toms aqua lifter pump? How has it been working for you? My overflow keeps losing prime and my tanks are overflowing every other week or so. Tried everything and this is the only thing left for me to try. Drilling my tanks is not an option as I have only been able to successfully drill 3 out of 6 55 Gallon tanks. Let me know Keith
1" pipe (check) 2" pipe (check) elbows (check) black paint (check) fallow instructions like 1, 2, 3! (check) I also did a return line 1/2" with pvc and painted it EXCELLENT VIDEO!
Any advice on choosing a pump/where to get one? I'm unsure if I can find something like it at a hardware store or whether it needs to be specifically made for aquariums... also, the ball valve goes on the tubing leading out of the sump, right? Thanks, your tutorial gave me a great idea and I plan to watch more! :)
People will bash but if you have a harbour freight around they have cheap submersible pumps that work great ....I've had them in my aquaponics tanks for quite some time with no failure and some of that water is groooosss haha
This video was awesome and the timing is great too seeing as I'm planning on redoing my overflow and sump. I now have a new design that looks really amazing, I cant wait to try it out.
This works very well for my tempered-glass reef tank, thanks Joey. But adding the airline to siphon the top-U is an absolute necessity, otherwise you can lose suction overtime.
the pipe you used to put some water with the bottle min: 2:58, makes a lot of noise in the one i built, as if it was ( and actually is) sucking air. any idea of how i can fix it withou completely blocking the air inlet?
I just completed my build of this upgrade it took me a little time to figure it out. what I found was that the pick-up tube that slides down in the weer. Has to be ever with the CENTER of the output on the tee. When the tee was below the pick-up tube it created a syphon. And when the tee was above the bottom of the pick-up I could look down the stand pipe and see the water below the outlet. So when there even it brings the water upto the outlet but leaves an air gap to break the syphon.
+Justin Goodman I just tried making this and it works but the flow is very slow. Can you please tell us more about what you mean for the TEE? Is it just to mount it higher than the tube thats inside the weir? I can't figure it out, just now when I tried to restart it, it won't drain at all. I tried priming it and I know it's fully sealed because I can blow into a hole while covering all others, I can't get any air in at all. The only difference I notice thats on mine is where the water flows out, instead of using a 90 degree, I just installed a tube into it and the water slides out.
Important! The pipe in the tank must be longer than the center of the T piece or outlet of the t piece. This will automatically be done if you kept all the pipes the same length when building. I could not get it to start unless i: 1) submerged the entire unit getting ALL air out the whole system. Cap all ends including the pipe in tank. 2) put the fully primed apparatus into place ( not in wier yet rather slide that over once the its flowing) 3) remove the vent cap, remove the outlet cap, lastly remove the cap on the inlet of the tank. It should work.
In theory, couldn't you also shorten the vertical pipes drastically? From my understanding, the lower outside U of the overflow shouldn't have to be so low, you could save on PVC by making the vertical pipe shorter so long as the T is still above the U but below the water level of the tank, right? Might make it a bit more compact. I ask as I'm building similar, but vertical height above the sump is limited.
making this overflow this week. But the primer line (testing) will be 7mm line running down to the return pump with a siphon manifold fingers crossed :) keep up the great video's joey. love watching them
Hi, can you please explain why you need to keep the check pump running all of the time? I really like your setup and was getting ready to do the old method but this is way better. You also answered my question I've been having about what paint to use! thanks a lot very useful vid.
Holy moly this thing is a beast I built my own and it does more then an extra 60% the pipe I used I should only be able to do about 600 gallons but all i had was a 800 gph pump and that bad boy can hardly keep up with this overflow!!!!
Absolutly perfect! But one little thing... When the bigger pipe is leaking - bottom plug, drilled hole - as You drilled, and the pump is off for a long time, the wather from tank will drop, to the bottom...
Does anyone know if you still need to put a CAP on the PVC that stands the tallest (2" above the rest), and drill a hole in it? At 5:07 he puts his palm on top to cover the hole. Does this mean we need to put a cap there?
Recently switched to this version it does flow a lot more water and it is quieter have it in a 55 gallon tank had to go from a 500 gph pump to a 1000 gph pump to keep from sucking the weir dry it’s 1 1/4” overflow with a 3” weir pipe I like it better after installing a black background and painting the weir black you can barely tell it’s there
I was wondering in case of power faillure if there is a leak on the suctioncup below the drainage point, wont your aquarium run dry and your sump overflow? i tried to silicone mine close but can't get it 100%
Hi there,I just want to know if the top pipe at the T also needs an end cap? Does the size or depth of the tank determine how deep the overflow goes into the weir?
questuon. the "fail proof pump", is there a posibility that it could pick up trash and get blocked? like the idea of adding this, but I got to wondering about this posibility. Tha k you very much for all your great vids
Can someone explain to me the principle behind priming the outflow? How does pouring water from the top at 2:57 and taking it out from the capped section at the bottom draw in water from the tank?
I wonder if instead of using the bigger pipe as a weir, is it possible to silicone up a a triangle corner weir? That will give big skimming surface and help to conceal some of the piping.
hi there, i love all of your video and i build my own xl canister and its working great for 2 years. Now i want a sump and i try this overflow, its working good but its so noisy did you have i tips for this ?
will this work if my aquarium is at ground level? i have an aquarium rack and the first one is 2 inches over the gorund i want to make an overflow system to filter my 3 aquariums with the same sump and take out the pump and heaters.. something like going to a side from the T instead of going down with an elbow ( 2:46 )
I love both of your videos. Now this video is showing that I can get 60% more flow form the new style. I have a 265 gallon tank and was told I would need about 1,200 to 1,500 GPH. So using the numbers from your first video and with the new style I guess would need to use one 1” pipe and one 1.1/4” pipe to get 1,528 or one 1 ½” pipe to get 1,344. If I did my math right. Another question is does the overflow pipe have to go so far down the weir pipe? I want to keep the overflow pipe a couple of inches below the water line just in case something happens and I don’t drain my whole tank out.
I had originally built your PVC overflow, for my 350L marine aquarium, worked great but kept finding fish in my sump. I made this version today and now I'm getting a gurgling sound every 30 seconds or so, this is going annoy the wife. I had trouble getting tit to flow at a higher flow rate than my previous overflow, until I put a cap over the top of the the pipe that was used to pour water to get system started. Going to give it a couple of tweaks tomorrow. Love you tutorial videos, I've used a heap of them
I figured out need to drill a small hole in the cap, stopped the gurgling, but still noisier than the previous overflow design, I've got next week off so will play around with it more
Simon Ford Yes the noise at the top of the cap does make a good amount of noise but the weir does as well (since the water is falling into the the bottom of the weir). If you have the drilled hole design you can follow the stockman standpipe for a solution, or if you drilled the holes at the very top like I did put an endcap that is a size bigger than the weir to cover the top of the pipe. As for the fish getting sucked in, that was a little bit of playing around to do. I first got a drain cover to cover it over and tied rubber bands around it (cut the bottom of the drain cover to slip over the weir). This didn't work out so well. I decided to buy a pipe bigger than the weir to cover the weir and drill many many tiny holes on the big pipe that's covering the weir so that my fish wouldn't get sucked in. I believe I need to drill more holes in the big pipe that covers the weir since it stopped taking in as much water as it did before. It's still below the surface of the water but the water line isn't at the height I want it to be. I can post pictures of what I mean tomorrow if you would like! I may not have the best option and I'm still trying to toy around with it but my fish have stopped getting sucked in.
thanks, I'm going to play around with it when I've more time, its gotten a lot higher flow rate which is great, means can have return pump on full to give extra flow for corals
Hi joey! I have no idea what are the supplies that will be needed to make this overflow would you help me out and tell me their names only the names of the pvc thank you great work you do and alot of effort you put in it thanks.
Who knows, forgot I even posted it but the issue resolved itself. I had tried letting it sit about 10/20 minutes with the cap on. When pulled off it would not flow anymore. I left it overnight with the cap on and primed again then the next morning i removed the cap and it worked as it should. It even restarted the flow once the water level was brought back up after a water change. I have no idea what caused it to take so long to fully prime but it eventually did.
@the king of diy, how do you get this going? I cannot get it started. All I did was modify the pipe height to accommodate my 40g, other than that, the design matched yours exactly but yet it will not prime
Missed his guidelines on reaching out for help. It took a lot more suction than expected and it's not exactly full proof like the video shows. It's been running decently for several months now but took a lot of messing around with the flow of the return pump. I do not advise a ball valve for adjusting the flow inline..you just can't finetune it enough for a highflow pump like my 1100gph Rio I had lying around lol.. maybe you can depending on size of sump or power of pump but mine is only a 10g for a 40g tank which is pushing it and risky..I did power fail test to see how much would drain and you definitely want to do the same!...invest in a true acrylic overflow or get a pump that actually has flow adjustment built in. Best advice I can give based my experience with this project. Thanks to Joey for the awesome videos!
Hi Joey, these were the type of videos that originally got me following you. Please start making more of these types of DIY videos again as that's what made you king of DIY.
I really loved these type of tutorial videos and miss them a lot, where you actually taught a lot of useful things to do with aquariums and made the hobby interesting. Compared to your current videos, these were more interesting.
Instead of using an aqua lifter, you can use a power head with an air intake. This will double up for flow through the tank as well as ensuring the overflow is primed in the event of a power outage. Have used this method on many overflows in the past and it works well.
Show me how
can you pls show us how to do it ?
Now thats a fantastic idea!
pretty simple, you get a power head that has an air connection on it, take the air hose and plug it into the top of the overflow. the power head clicks on after the power outage and syphons the water out of the overflow. works well.
Cody McMillan how does the power head work if the power is out
Well I had my doubts. It didn't work well at first, BUT after I figured out that my issue was air leaking in (during dry fit testing) and I played with the tubes to get a better seal...... Whoosh! Serious flow bro! Thanks!
how did you find the air leak mine wont prime?
Still having great success with the original version of this overflow. I don't really mind the 2 pipes and some fish actually use it as shelter during lights out. I've had great flow for months and it's silent. I also put a PVC elbow on the intake then stuck a filter intake screen in that to protect fish from being swallowed. This also make this overflow extremely quiet. Great vid!
+BJ Nunn Agreed. Its rally just a matter of preference.
Hey bro. I just want to say thanx. I made your first overflow and had hardly any flow at all and just upgraded it with this. I just drilled my holes instead of slotting it and it works exactly as you said. Thanx again!!!!!
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Just like to say thank you for this video King of DIY! Just finished the upgrade for my 120 gallon oscar tank- The return pump is 700 gph and after some tweaks is handling the flow no problem - saved me from drilling the tank - Thanks again! Keep 'em coming!
I made an excellent overflow by putting a bulkhead in an old hanging filter. It has it's own suction with weir and you can use the pump to get flow started. Works perfectly and if you lose power siphon automatically breaks so no overfill.
What is this you speak of?
This is a cool idea
You must 100% move the T up higher to stop the overflow from emptying the pipe and losing prime. After a several minute power outage and the pump turns back on, it floods out t the tank the way you have this built. I know cause I built several trying to get it right and the T was the issue to
Well can u do a short video or a diagram for the slower people like me?
@@steelwill101 just move the Tee up several inches instead of the very bottom.
Are we talking 2 inches 5“ 10 inches
Mine works fine the way it shows in the video. Instead of a check valve, I ran it to a powerhead air intake that I have. Anytime there is a power failure, when everything turns back on the powerhead clears out the air pocket in the overflow and it take off again. Also, I put a small hole in the return line just below the water surface so if there is ever a back syphon to the sump, it will only drain water back until that little hole is breathing in air. Double redundancy, and best of all --- NO WET CARPET!
First thing, this system works great. One problem that you didn't cover with this Overflow is what happens during a power outage. Yes your water will stop on the siphon side but if your return line is still below that point, it will continue on the return side. The way i fixed this problem was to drill a small hole on the return line at the same level as the siphon side. If you dont then your sump with overflow on to the floor. Might want to cover that side of this project as well if you haven't already. BTW great channel Thanks.
Built this style and it works like a CHARM. Thank you so much for getting me into this. I went from a guy not knowing about sizing, PVC pipes, and how this style of filtration to actually knowing something and putting this all together. I even modified it to be more quieter as well so it works (put an drilled end cap on the stand pipe and a slip coupling to reduce the sound.
+silencedknight Is this setup dead silent?
No it isn't but there are videos that show how to combat the noise of this (since its the water falling down the pipe). With the drilled holes you see there there is a solution to this using a stockman standpipe with the proper materials you can make on your own. There are a few videos, you should look into it!
Yeah I know about stockman standpipe solution but I don't think you can apply it to this overflow weir design.
You can, but you have to put an endcap at the top of the pipe. You have to drill the endcap so the intake tube can fit in there.
Let me know if you have any questions.
2 years ago I built a Weir for my tank just to hide a heater, pump, and chemi pure. today I built this overflow and added a sump and skimmer to my tank finally. it works perfect, Thank you so much
Dude! I built this and added a check valve for the aqualifter. It works great! Thanks for making this video!
The version I made for my old 55gal tank was the same as the first with a different modification. I wanted it to pull water from lower in my aquarium and these designs only pull water from the top. So I just raised the "T" to the top of the "U" bend setting it were I wanted the water level to be at in the tank at the halfway point, then put a strainer from an old hob on the intake pipe that hangs inside the tank. It worked very well without issues.
So for those wanting another design that does the exact same thing you can make it like this too.
I used a 3" weir'd setup with 1" lines. My hope and logic tells me more surface skimming! 😀
I did add a pvc ball valve and a union before sump input to aid in starting the prime and working on sump in the future.
Now I just have to install flooring throughout the house lol!
Thanks for the easy diy video
Retail cost in USA was approximately $80 for all pvc, valve, unions, fittings... Now I just need to paint 🤣
I was planning this days in making an overflow, thanks! People like me appreciate your work, Joey!
+Francisco Traverzo Thanks!
@@thekingofdiy non. M.!MP mo
Great video...
But i was wondering if instead of using an airpumpe, hooking up an Diffusor from the return line would work to. and be completely automatic?
Love your work and vids.
They have become crucial to my next big sump build for 2x2ft and 2x4ft tanks. All plumbed together.
If I may add. The only addition I have looked to make, at the top of the overflow, where you drill in the air pipe, drill the other end into the inlet. Creating a venturi, so the airlift pump isn't required
What inlet are you talking about? The overflow inlet or the inlet where the water goes into the tank from the sump?
Absolutely perfect! best improvement ever on my 55 African Cichlid tank. I used 3/4" inside 2" and a 18 gallon sump, thanks for all your videos! I just started back in the hobby this April after a 35 year time off.
Joey- can you please provide an update on a PVC overflow or another overflow system in a non-drilled tank
All I can say is you are the best DIY person in the business.
+Cichlidking1 Thanks brother.
Any opinions on doing this that connects 12 guppy breeding tanks? All will have overflows that connects to big pvc going down to the sump, and a pump split that returns to every tank.
Nicely done... I'm going to try this out on my 55gal this weekend... I was thinking of drilling my tank but this is definitely look much nice... Lots of positives with only the priming seems like an issue but I got muscle sitting on my shoulder waiting to be used! :) THE KING OF DIY - Advice was appreciated... Keep up the solid work, I would buy your book if i had the extra $$$...
Great idea! but theoretically this hole for suction cup can cause water leak if it will be ill-fitting and pump fail. It will be better to avoid this hole for suction cup, but it was noticed before. Really good job, easy and eficient.
Have you say your videos have gotten a lot better over the years. Just watched on from 2011 i think it was. Keep up the good work man.
The only YT video clearly explaining overflow and how to get to a sumo system🎉🎉🎉
Working perfectly fine. Great video thanks a ton. Just one question after all the fittings have been done , is there any to remove the pipe(inlet) inside the aquarium for cleaning purpose?
Finishing up mine now will update on it when I finish. Testing works great though, no loss of suction, can handle lots of water flow
This is a very simple overflow to follow, i was just wondering if it is necessary to have the pcv go straight to the bottom of the tank, or perhaps lets say half the length of the tank?
Thank you so much for this idea. I followed your instruction to the letter and it works awesome. Quick question however. How am I able to make the vent pipe quieter?
Christopher Lore put a cap on it with a small hole in it. Works for me.
Glorious! I foresee 4 changes I would make for my application, though it would require a special kind of pump...
1. Allow the overflow tube to take out water from the bottom of the aquarium, as the majority of detritus will normally coalesce at this point in the water column.
2. Add a fail-closed valve to the overflow line before it reaches the sump. This valve should be governed by a depth sensor in the upper level of the sump. The valve will close once the water level hits it, thus preventing the sump from overflowing in the event the pump fails.
3. Include a 2nd fail-closed valve just before or after the 1st that is set to trigger when the electrical mains are interrupted, so as to prevent a similar incident to "2" from occurring during a power outage.
4. Have 2 depth sensors: 1 sitting just above the pump intake within the sump, the other stationed just inside the upper lip of the aquarium. These will be connected to the pump. When the water level either leaves the sump sensor exposed, or the tank sensor submerged, the pump is triggered to shut off to stop it from either cavitating (not enough water in sump) or overfilling the aquarium (overflow intake clogged, etc.).
EDIT: In place of "2" and "3", a hole could be drilled in the length of the intake within the aquarium, just below your desired water level. When the level of water falls to the height of the hole, air should rush into the siphon and "break" the flow.
Ok... my head hurts.
For number 1 I prefer the intake at the top because A. it lets me keep the water in the tank a specific level, B. it cleans the top of the water and I have an exposed top tank, and C if you have a planted tank you don't want to take the detritus out from the bottom unless you fish plant ratio is way to high. Those other things are great ideas though.
Is the hole for the suction cup risky? Seems like if you have a power outage and a small leak at that point it could drain your tank to the floor.
+Jeff K i also think it's risky. Usually I attach the suction cup with zip ties. Ugly but safer
+Jeff K The suction cup hole is in the bigger pipe which doesn't go anywhere. Its not risky at all since the small pipe is the one taking in the water to the sump.
the level of the water is decided by the lowest hole in the bigger pipe. It should be on the top, but if the suction cup hole is not sealed, water will enter from there, so that will be the lowest hole. Sure, the return pump will greatly compensate the little leak, but if it stops the aquarium will be drained.
+roby p The hole isn't going to provide enough water for the siphon to continue. The weir will drain and allow the siphon to break before that tiny hole can refill the weir. Even so, always test your work under supervision so you don't have a catastrophe because you thought it was right.
+Jeff K Even if that were the case just take some silicone and run it around the back of the suction cup and pipe. Impossible problem indefinitely solved.
Made this last week, runs great. Thanks for saving us all so much money.
Howz the overflow working
I can't prime mine
@@Abdul-qr4bd did you get it to prime?
The more videos I make, the more respect I have for you and the work that you've put into this channel.
+Steve Poland Cichlids Thanks Steve. Im planning on doing a behind the scenes video eventually. Perhaps you'll find some tricks in it. :)
I have built one of these already for my 29 gallon tank, I'll have to send you a picture of my new one for my 60 gallon tank =) thanks a lot Joey!
I can't get the suction to start. It just fills up the weir and then keeps filling up the tank
Did you ever fix it ?
If you do exactly as he says it will work fine, I’ve used this model for all my fish tanks
Did you fill the pipe before turning upside down inside the weir? If you didn't, it won't start (if I am not mistaken). Others here can let me know if I am correct.
@thomasashe2681 absolutely correct, without removal of air from the upside down U pipe the system will be siphon locked
thank you so much
keep your hard work
you're the best
+Abdullah Minor (Alshikhi) Thank you. glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Joey,
I just built this overflow but I’m struggling to get it primed. Would you have any instructions for me please? I cap it on the bottom, fill it with water and when I uncap it it stops.
Thank you
Are you filling the aquarium?
@thekingofdiyjoey this is my issue as well. Any suggestions? I'm using this as a link between two tanks but it won't stay primed.
Glad you're finally revealing the new series. That's exciting!
So this one is set up as a siphon style. This should have much more flow since there are less bends.
If the pump stops, even though more water isn't overflowing into the tank won't the siphon still be removing water until it drains the overflow tube down to where the opening of the siphon is? Then, when the pump starts up again, the water will be filling up but I don't think the overflow will be primed. The Aqualifter will help keep the siphon when running but, in this case, I don't think it'll be capable of priming the overflow.
I'm bringing up these concerns because I want to build this! This is a much better looking overflow and similar to how I modified the old design but having the two pipes is unsightly and I was concerned about flow rates.
Krylon Fusion is awesome for these projects!
Thanks Joey.
+AquaStudent No, it does not work as a siphon. It still works as an overflow. Imagine the big pipe as being the pipe we removed.
Oh, I see it now! Perfect! Thanks! I'm happy.
+AquaStudent Good luck! If you put it on video, send me the link.
Yessir. This project definitely looks better.
+The king of DIY Hey Joey. I'm working on assembling this project and have an interesting question for you.
Why do we need to raise up the T connector that's on the end of the system, the one that connects the "vertical vent" to the pipe leading to the sump? We have a 90 elbow right before the T but if we cut out that last elbow wouldn't we be able to save a slight amount of resistance? (shorter pipe, less plumbing). The middle Part of the T could be pointed towards the pipe leading to the tank instead of the sump, the top goes to the vertical vent and the bottom leads to the sump.
I think I've answered the question myself but want to confirm. Doing this would that break the siphon (likely just after it is formed from being primed) by preventing the water from remaining on the bottom side of the overflow.
Have an issue? cant get it to work? HERE IS THE FIX: I have been answering questions on this project for years now.. and no longer will. Its the same answer again and again... the #1 answer that solves 99% of all issues is this: PAY ATTENTION TO THE VIDEO. 99% simply do not follow the instructions or build it the same way, yet expect it to still work. The other 1% have an air leak somewhere. Find it. Seal it. Sorry, but i simply do not have the time to keep answering the same questions, when they all result with this same solution. IF YOU MUST get help, POST A PHOTO to my fan page so i can at least SEE what the problem is. I will not be able to help otherwise. facebook.com/UaruJoey
Original video ► goo.gl/4EU9ZXHow it all works ► goo.gl/L1Fg7MThe modified and upgraded version ► goo.gl/ZGRtXj
I have a question thats not in the video. I want to do this but I want to also keep my water line above the trim of my tank. That means the slots for the weir could be at most about 1/2 of an inch. Is that too short of a slot. Would it work or should I just the cut the pipe off at the top a afix a screen to the hole?
The bottom of the weir teeth will be your water level
do i need the outter pvc pipe if i install on a biocube that has a overflow chamber
Yes and no. It would work, but if your return pump failed you could have a mess. The back of the biocube has inlets that are halfway down the tank, so that's how far it would drain.
Both this and the 'original' design have their specific 'niche' applications. I use the original design (with ball valve added to the drain pipe connection) for water exchanges with aged (Municipal) water, (rather than a constant water exchange system). The original design is better at 'skimming' the occasional bacterial surface film (which might form if you accidentally overfeed). straight down the drain. --The design presented in this video however, merely concentrates that film at the base of its larger in tank 'well' and when shut off during periods of non use allows all of that trapped bacterial film to redistribute across the take surface again.
An awesome design...My 75 gallon main & 20 gallon sump build prototype works great. Can't wait to get it all finished. Love the weir. Can't say enough about it. - Road Dog 1
Thanks Joey, I've been wanting to increase my flow rate. I did have the fish getting sucked down problem, but it was a simple fix, I just capped just below the water line, well it was more of a ring that slipped over the top, but it did the job pefectly. This idea is much better for the overflow. Thanks again!!!!!!!
Works great joey I have added two of these to my 330gal aquarium and great water flow from to returns and one larger sump pump. Thanks again.
what do you use instead of the toms aqualift?
Must say I enjoy your DIY and have done quit a few of them. I am setting up a 160 gallon tank (keeping Koi's) planning on putting 2 on each end of the tank your corner Super Charge corner sponge filter, but also wanted to add in the center your overflow project that will go to a sump and return via pump.
Question, is the position of the overflow best in the center since I'm planning the sponge filters. thanks for your advice.
i know this is an old post but i am setting up a 180 gallon cichlid tank, wanted to find out how did your design work out
Any suggestions from the internet world on how to reduce the noise from the water going over my weir and down the oversized pipe? I made this setup using 3/4" and my stand pipe is 1 1/2" (double the size). I'm doing a good job on the balanced water level (about 1" above the base of the notches in the top of the oversized pipe). But I'm getting a lot of noise from this part of the overflow. Do I need more notches, bigger notches, less notches? Should the oversized stand pipe be full of water or is it always a waterfall effect across the weir and down to the suction location? Thanks in advance. Oh... and from experience make sure your suction cups on the oversized stand pipe are sealed watertight into the hole. I unplugged the system, went out for an hour and had a spill because water was getting in through the suction cup location. Live and learn :-)
I am having the same problem now and it is making crazy. I cannot figure out how to fix the loud noise of it running down the weir. Did you find a fix?
What a simple but great design. I have been looking for a way to build something without drilling the tank, but limits the amount of water that back. This will work perfectly.
Excellent Work mate, I am about to build one as i am in the process of establishing a Sump system, i have 125gal display tank , 40 gal breeder for the sump , how much flow this will provide, what size of a lift pump should goes with it and how tall the baffles should be ! Thanks in advance
yes finally 2 videos a week. love you man. your videos are the best
+rcisourmiddlename Thanks pal!
Hey folks, i'm also on Facebook. I post pictures, more videos and updates there: facebook.com/UaruJoey
Hey Joey, thanks so much for taking the time to put together and share your videos. I've built my overflow following your diy video. I did opt to omit the optional air tube with the pump you mentioned, primarily to keep the cleanest look but also one less thing to buy and contend with. Without it, it is performing just fine with no loss of siphon issues I will say my unit is quite loud with a gurgling noise, is that because I did not use the optional airline? Thanks again for sharing.
You can get a cap for the top(where he shows pouring water in to prime it) drill small holes to let air pass through and DON'T GLUE IT ON.
Mine is very loud as well, gurgling noises, did you ever find a solution to quiet it down?
Thank you. Your videos have been really helpful as I prepare a 100 gallon aquarium. Hello from Guam.
Just modified the original and added in the weir. Working great so far and just as quiet as the last. I'll have to make the holes bigger I think because the water is dropping really far
great vid! but i dont understand how you primed it just by pouring water through the top? when i tried nothing happened
Did you figure out how to prime it? I am having the same problem. I fill the pipe and uncap it, but it just drains out all the water from that pipe and is not overflowing water from my tank. Do you need the aqua lifter pump for it to work? It looks like in the video that he doesn't have it attached but it primes without any issue. My design is identical except I drilled holes in my weir because I don't have a tablesaw.
@@gbduga I m having the same issue. Works in the beggining but after it turn off the pump and on it doesn't drain any more
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR PUTTING THIS OUT THERE! once I glued everything into place it worked flawlessly. have it going down into my wet/dry filter that you ALSO showed us how to make! you're the best!
Did you glue the one inch pipe to the two inch inch weir inside the tank?
No. I don't recall Joey telling us to do that either.
Just double checking......no he did not
@@oval291 will this work if you do not glue the pieces together? I've been doing a dry run (without glue), and cannot get it to siphon or stay running. Thanks.
When you make this, you make 2 for redundancy so can you run a splitter off you aqualifter pump to sustain primes on both overflows? As long as you put a check valve?
I just made one of these thanks Joey ! Had it flowing at 225gph approx when I tested it. Will post a pic when I have it in the tank!
Great video as i'm looking to convert my fresh water tank to an reef tank, but I only have 5 cm space behind my tank &have an overhang lip on inside off tank off 7 cm which over flow boxes won't fit, but have little holes in each corner of tank for pipe work this method will do nicely
Hi Joey, are you presently still running your overflow with the Toms aqua lifter pump? How has it been working for you?
My overflow keeps losing prime and my tanks are overflowing every other week or so. Tried everything and this is the only thing left for me to try.
Drilling my tanks is not an option as I have only been able to successfully drill 3 out of 6 55 Gallon tanks.
Let me know
Keith
1" pipe (check) 2" pipe (check) elbows (check) black paint (check)
fallow instructions like 1, 2, 3! (check)
I also did a return line 1/2" with pvc and painted it
EXCELLENT VIDEO!
Any advice on choosing a pump/where to get one? I'm unsure if I can find something like it at a hardware store or whether it needs to be specifically made for aquariums... also, the ball valve goes on the tubing leading out of the sump, right? Thanks, your tutorial gave me a great idea and I plan to watch more! :)
People will bash but if you have a harbour freight around they have cheap submersible pumps that work great ....I've had them in my aquaponics tanks for quite some time with no failure and some of that water is groooosss haha
I got mine online. Shop around, check prices and reviews!
This video was awesome and the timing is great too seeing as I'm planning on redoing my overflow and sump. I now have a new design that looks really amazing, I cant wait to try it out.
This works very well for my tempered-glass reef tank, thanks Joey. But adding the airline to siphon the top-U is an absolute necessity, otherwise you can lose suction overtime.
the pipe you used to put some water with the bottle min: 2:58, makes a lot of noise in the one i built, as if it was ( and actually is) sucking air.
any idea of how i can fix it withou completely blocking the air inlet?
Will it work if I need a 1200GPH flow rate or will I be needing two units? Or maybe a 3" outer pipe with a 1.5" inner pipe?
Thanks for this. I combined your Overflow Weir, with the guy who makes drift wood out of pvc’s Technique.
You almost can’t tell it’s a filter.
Can you post a link to that video? Sounds interesting
@@het127 Google it. It is the first thing that comes up
I just completed my build of this upgrade it took me a little time to figure it out. what I found was that the pick-up tube that slides down in the weer. Has to be ever with the CENTER of the output on the tee. When the tee was below the pick-up tube it created a syphon. And when the tee was above the bottom of the pick-up I could look down the stand pipe and see the water below the outlet. So when there even it brings the water upto the outlet but leaves an air gap to break the syphon.
+Justin Goodman Hi Justin. could you please post a video about what you did with the overflow?
+Justin Goodman I just tried making this and it works but the flow is very slow. Can you please tell us more about what you mean for the TEE? Is it just to mount it higher than the tube thats inside the weir? I can't figure it out, just now when I tried to restart it, it won't drain at all. I tried priming it and I know it's fully sealed because I can blow into a hole while covering all others, I can't get any air in at all. The only difference I notice thats on mine is where the water flows out, instead of using a 90 degree, I just installed a tube into it and the water slides out.
..
Important! The pipe in the tank must be longer than the center of the T piece or outlet of the t piece. This will automatically be done if you kept all the pipes the same length when building. I could not get it to start unless i: 1) submerged the entire unit getting ALL air out the whole system. Cap all ends including the pipe in tank. 2) put the fully primed apparatus into place ( not in wier yet rather slide that over once the its flowing) 3) remove the vent cap, remove the outlet cap, lastly remove the cap on the inlet of the tank. It should work.
dudeWHATsweet mine works but my toms lifter pump while its working gets mostly air and the pipe going into the sump sees a lot of bubbles
In theory, couldn't you also shorten the vertical pipes drastically? From my understanding, the lower outside U of the overflow shouldn't have to be so low, you could save on PVC by making the vertical pipe shorter so long as the T is still above the U but below the water level of the tank, right? Might make it a bit more compact. I ask as I'm building similar, but vertical height above the sump is limited.
I used this to setup an little indoor aquaponics setup! its perfect!
making this overflow this week. But the primer line (testing) will be 7mm line running down to the return pump with a siphon manifold fingers crossed :) keep up the great video's joey. love watching them
I like this style and I tried to set it up. I am not understanding why it is so loud. I have a loud! Gurgling noise coming from the pipes.
Same here, did you ever figure out how to stop the gurgling?
@@zoenielsen9938 I did not. I gave up and went canister
Hi, can you please explain why you need to keep the check pump running all of the time? I really like your setup and was getting ready to do the old method but this is way better. You also answered my question I've been having about what paint to use! thanks a lot very useful vid.
Holy moly this thing is a beast I built my own and it does more then an extra 60% the pipe I used I should only be able to do about 600 gallons but all i had was a 800 gph pump and that bad boy can hardly keep up with this overflow!!!!
I used 1" pipe and have a 400gph pump and it doesnt flow enough, not sure what I did wrong lol
Absolutly perfect! But one little thing... When the bigger pipe is leaking - bottom plug, drilled hole - as You drilled, and the pump is off for a long time, the wather from tank will drop, to the bottom...
Is there an alternative to the Toms pump? It's no longer in production.
Does anyone know if you still need to put a CAP on the PVC that stands the tallest (2" above the rest), and drill a hole in it? At 5:07 he puts his palm on top to cover the hole. Does this mean we need to put a cap there?
I can’t believe how far your aquatic career has come.
Recently switched to this version it does flow a lot more water and it is quieter have it in a 55 gallon tank had to go from a 500 gph pump to a 1000 gph pump to keep from sucking the weir dry it’s 1 1/4” overflow with a 3” weir pipe I like it better after installing a black background and painting the weir black you can barely tell it’s there
I was wondering in case of power faillure if there is a leak on the suctioncup below the drainage point, wont your aquarium run dry and your sump overflow? i tried to silicone mine close but can't get it 100%
Make that hole really small so it's tight. Some pipe thread compound or Vaseline migh ensure that it's water tight.
Instead of using the Aqualifter pump, could you use the check valve like you did in the previous version?
Hi there,I just want to know if the top pipe at the T also needs an end cap? Does the size or depth of the tank determine how deep the overflow goes into the weir?
I made one exactly the same and it works perfectly fine. Thank you for all your help
questuon. the "fail proof pump", is there a posibility that it could pick up trash and get blocked? like the idea of adding this, but I got to wondering about this posibility. Tha k you very much for all your great vids
+Eric Batrez www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=OE1140&child=OE1140&OE1140&gclid=Cj0KEQiAr8W2BRD2qbCOv8_H7qEBEiQA1ErTBtPHDd90LLvAw4WyNu56ySMJEX0YRbo25g63lY4WDFEaAgLG8P8HAQ
thank you ..all seems well...only issue was that I had to add check valve to get it started. working well now.
I still cannot get either this or the old style on a drip system. With the aqualifter it still loses prime and overflows the sump.
Yes more videos every week!!!
+Zavier G Im pretty excited to start as well. :)
I have made one myself with your instructions, and it works perfect. Thanks for the idee and keep up the good work 💪👍
I can't prime mine
Can someone explain to me the principle behind priming the outflow? How does pouring water from the top at 2:57 and taking it out from the capped section at the bottom draw in water from the tank?
Gravity pulls the water down..
I wonder if instead of using the bigger pipe as a weir, is it possible to silicone up a a triangle corner weir? That will give big skimming surface and help to conceal some of the piping.
Great update u addressed all my doubts with the mk1 👍
hi there, i love all of your video and i build my own xl canister and its working great for 2 years. Now i want a sump and i try this overflow, its working good but its so noisy did you have i tips for this ?
finaly i think its only because i got some air buble because now its working great, thank you Joe :)
@@jasminj6137 how did your fix it?
will this work if my aquarium is at ground level? i have an aquarium rack and the first one is 2 inches over the gorund i want to make an overflow system to filter my 3 aquariums with the same sump and take out the pump and heaters.. something like going to a side from the T instead of going down with an elbow ( 2:46 )
I love both of your videos. Now this video is showing that I can get 60% more flow form the new style. I have a 265 gallon tank and was told I would need about 1,200 to 1,500 GPH. So using the numbers from your first video and with the new style I guess would need to use one 1” pipe and one 1.1/4” pipe to get 1,528 or one 1 ½” pipe to get 1,344. If I did my math right. Another question is does the overflow pipe have to go so far down the weir pipe? I want to keep the overflow pipe a couple of inches below the water line just in case something happens and I don’t drain my whole tank out.
Very cool. Love the new look - much more pleasing!
+Brian Stalter I agree!
I had originally built your PVC overflow, for my 350L marine aquarium, worked great but kept finding fish in my sump. I made this version today and now I'm getting a gurgling sound every 30 seconds or so, this is going annoy the wife.
I had trouble getting tit to flow at a higher flow rate than my previous overflow, until I put a cap over the top of the the pipe that was used to pour water to get system started. Going to give it a couple of tweaks tomorrow.
Love you tutorial videos, I've used a heap of them
Did this work for you? Check out the Stockman standpipe. I did it with a modified concept.
I figured out need to drill a small hole in the cap, stopped the gurgling, but still noisier than the previous overflow design, I've got next week off so will play around with it more
Simon Ford Yes the noise at the top of the cap does make a good amount of noise but the weir does as well (since the water is falling into the the bottom of the weir). If you have the drilled hole design you can follow the stockman standpipe for a solution, or if you drilled the holes at the very top like I did put an endcap that is a size bigger than the weir to cover the top of the pipe.
As for the fish getting sucked in, that was a little bit of playing around to do. I first got a drain cover to cover it over and tied rubber bands around it (cut the bottom of the drain cover to slip over the weir). This didn't work out so well. I decided to buy a pipe bigger than the weir to cover the weir and drill many many tiny holes on the big pipe that's covering the weir so that my fish wouldn't get sucked in. I believe I need to drill more holes in the big pipe that covers the weir since it stopped taking in as much water as it did before. It's still below the surface of the water but the water line isn't at the height I want it to be.
I can post pictures of what I mean tomorrow if you would like! I may not have the best option and I'm still trying to toy around with it but my fish have stopped getting sucked in.
thanks, I'm going to play around with it when I've more time, its gotten a lot higher flow rate which is great, means can have return pump on full to give extra flow for corals
great update joey! very smart solution with the air suction pump.
Hi joey! I have no idea what are the supplies that will be needed to make this overflow would you help me out and tell me their names only the names of the pvc thank you great work you do and alot of effort you put in it thanks.
Made one of these almost identical to this but cant seem to make mine work without capping the primer spout? How does he get his to work without it?
Why did no one reply to this.
Who knows, forgot I even posted it but the issue resolved itself. I had tried letting it sit about 10/20 minutes with the cap on. When pulled off it would not flow anymore. I left it overnight with the cap on and primed again then the next morning i removed the cap and it worked as it should. It even restarted the flow once the water level was brought back up after a water change.
I have no idea what caused it to take so long to fully prime but it eventually did.
Air working itself out I guess. Crazy.
I think it's a great idea! Thanks. I have watched your channel since you made the original.
@the king of diy, how do you get this going? I cannot get it started. All I did was modify the pipe height to accommodate my 40g, other than that, the design matched yours exactly but yet it will not prime
Missed his guidelines on reaching out for help. It took a lot more suction than expected and it's not exactly full proof like the video shows. It's been running decently for several months now but took a lot of messing around with the flow of the return pump. I do not advise a ball valve for adjusting the flow inline..you just can't finetune it enough for a highflow pump like my 1100gph Rio I had lying around lol.. maybe you can depending on size of sump or power of pump but mine is only a 10g for a 40g tank which is pushing it and risky..I did power fail test to see how much would drain and you definitely want to do the same!...invest in a true acrylic overflow or get a pump that actually has flow adjustment built in. Best advice I can give based my experience with this project. Thanks to Joey for the awesome videos!
how do i silent the noise on the overflow when passing the weir?
i have the same exact issue ! I feel like i need to wear ear plugs
@@alabdelsalam3358 i remember that a put a cap and drilled a hole on the open pipe. I hope it helps.