A Complicated Rust Repair of an 86 Carrera
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ธ.ค. 2022
- This 86 Porsche 911 Carrera 3.2 is a friend's doughty companion through summer. He invests regularly and she's getting better ever since he has owned her. This winter we address two annoying rust spots under the front fenders that are very common with G-models.
#porsche911 #classicporsche #restoration
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It is so refreshing to see that I am not the only one who melts holes through metal and makes sliver inserts for the gaps. Nice repair, sir!
Thanks, mate.
Fact is, we all do.
Always a pleasure to watch you work on cars so accurately and methodically. One of just two channels for which I got the bell activated :)
Jethro the other one, I would guess 😉
Your workmanship is an art form, incredible.
Thanks, Rhett. ☺️
I wish I had seen these videos 6 years ago when I had the rust fixed on my 87 3.2. Beautiful work. Its the attention to detail that distinguishes a true craftsman.
Thanks, mate. That’s very kind feedback.
It’s just no fun doing things half as good as possible.
My favorite time on TH-cam is your channel
Incredible indeed.
Cheers, mate!
One of the very few channels where I have the bell activated.
Amazing work, and such good videoediting with perfect tempo, just fantastic 😁
Much appreciated. 😍
The most four dimensional video ever. Thanks, Doc!
“Silence, Earthling! My Name Is Darth Vader. I Am An Extraterrestrial From The Planet Vulcan!”
I think I have to watch it again soon.
about the welding around 13:24, something I learned recently about tight gap welds like this is to angle the head of the welder as flat as you can rather than weld from above and allow the gas to pool up in one spot, helps not to burn through on areas like this
Thanks, for commenting!
Yes, and that would also allow the wire to find something to connect to instead of just being pushed into the gap.
I am so glad that you came back with another great video!
Thanks, Pantelis. How are the Bimmers doing?
Awesome video! Love watching you work on these cars.
Thanks, Christopher!
Another detailed job Johannes, well done. Just replaced nsf wing on mine and thankfully inner wing was like new.Was glad to get it all back together!! Merry Christmas!
Same to you, Simon!
Cheers for your 911.
Hooray! Happy to see a new episode. Cheers Johannes!
Thanks for commenting, Brad. Always a pleasure.
Love and skills is applied, so satisfying to watch. Thank you for sharing.
Welcome, Ole! Thanks for commenting.
I really enjoy your videos! Well done and happy Christmas!
Thanks, Filippo & happy holiday!
Extremely valuable car . Minor rust repair . Well done
What you mean „minor“? 😆
Hi Greasy finger ! God to see you 😃 Again, a spot on job and a lesson on who to be patient. By the way, It's cool to see you working with your son. I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🌲🎄🎆🎇☃🍾🥂
Thanks, François. Same to you!
Fantastic as usual, probably the best restorer in the world! 🍺
Thanks, David, but I guess not. 😄
Great work as ever, good to see the pink undercoat back 🙂
Thanks, Bryn.
You missed it? 😆
'the extra wire ' is a good idea to close the gap !
Yes, it works great.
I repair rust as my living - I now have a brush on/spray on solution that you can apply to areas like this & it will halt the rust perfectly. It has become a life-saver for areas like this here with us. After welding in the repair section, we now coat everything with our rust treatment & don't have to give the area any further thought. The interior of the panel gets the same solution spray-injected so that it too is protected - and for a change, we now have a system we can have full confidence in.
Thanks for commenting, James.
Feel free to tell us more.
In my eyes the problem is that whatever is applied to the panel before it’s welded, will burn off again. I therefore used Inox spray and will bring in some cavity protection later. Is that what you mean?
@@GreasyFingers yes, but I have found no paint or bought treatment really lasts - they all begin to fail pretty early - especially on areas that have had a lot of heat from welding. Which is why I made my own.
Those MIG tacks of yours are so satisfying. I struggle to get mine as clean and quick as those.
Thanks, mate.
In the end it’s all a matter of tight gaps.
Exceptional at all levels!
Thanks, Christopher. Glad you liked it. Don’t hesitate to recommend the channel to your mates.
I hit the like button after watching 15 seconds of this because I knew it would be awesome. And guess what, it was 😁. Nice tip about the adding of welding wire etc in the panel gap when welding panels that can be a bit rusty. 🙂
Thanks, Halvard.
I benefited from the comments of my viewers who recommended to me the idea of adding material into the gap.
Nice repair!
Thanks, Kyle!
Great content again👍👌You have your own niche.
Thanks, Ole.
Yeah, a very small and special one, but there seam to be guys who like it.
Nice work.... And working on a car like that must be so thrilling!
Thanks!
It is!
I think your videos are great. Well presented and thought out. So when did the 911 add fender liners to help keep debris out of these areas ? I wonder why they were not on cars earlier. So much road dirt gets thrown up under the fenders that causes problems later on.
I love your workmanship. Thank you for preserving another magnificent Porsche 911. I wish you were also a Honda S2000 guy. I know you could solve the ubiquitous "off-idle-stumble" that every single Honda S2000 suffers. Maybe you will decide to solve this problem after all?
Thanks for commenting, mate.
I like the S2000, as it’s such a dedicated design, but I don’t have any specific knowledge about it.
I am surprised that there was no corrosion further forward where the other dirt trap is. Would also have enjoyed seeing the wing removal and reassembly as I intend to address this point on my 86 Carrera. Hugely enjoyable video and I wish you were closer so I could have you look at mine! 👍
So am I!
The bumper reinforcement plate one you mean, right? I expected it to be at least as bad as the one in the film, but absolutely no trace of rust!!
I’m going to show the reassembly in the next film.
@@GreasyFingers I can't wait for this!
Pour 15 works well on remaining surface rust, and over the repair panel. Moist Bastos works good for containing the heat and resulting warpage. Nice Beverly Shear. Great metalwork and attention to detail. I have a little rust repair in the gasket channel on my ‘69 911R type replica. I’m just getting ready to remove the steel fenders and install the fiberglass R fenders. I’m sure I’ll find more rust once the fenders are off.
Thanks for commenting, Rod.
I read a lot about Pour 15 and I’m tempted to try it. Can it be painted over easily?
@@GreasyFingers they make a topcoat, as it dries shiney and slick. I just pulled the fuel tank on my 69, and there is some surface rust on the upper driver side corner of the mounting surface on the car. I’m going to try and get a small container, because once you open it up, it’s best to use it up. The top will weld to the can and you can’t re open it. That’s how strong the stuff is
Really nice work, well done.
When you want to weld a gap, you could also put a thin sheet of copper behind, it helps often a lot and you can close the gaps easier….
It’s a closed space. you can’t get it out
Thanks, Fritz. The copper method is a great way to avoid holes but as Anton said, it doesn’t work if you can’t access the backside.
Loved the video! Music not so much lol
Thanks for commenting.
Almost impossible to meet everyone’s taste with music.
But I agree it was a bit of a risky choice this time.
What an awkward place to rust! Great attention to detail and fine workmanship as usual. 👍if only the German football team were as good 😂
Hi David, yeah, you know, these days in the news: during a manoeuvre of the Germany army 18 from 18 Puma panzers broke down. Football, tanks, … we’ve lost it all. 😆
@@GreasyFingers lol! Haha!
Nice work! New subscriber 👍. From my experience, when welding to imperfect metal start your arc on the clean new steel and "circle" into the old steel - fills gap and good penetration 🙂
Thanks, mate.
Yeap!
"As scoring against Germany " ouch , I caught that one.
Hell, yes.
Another wonderful video that straddles the line between first class technical content and ASMR. Perfect for my lazy Friday morning. I may have missed but how did you find rust under the wing/fender ? Just looked based on experience ? Nice World Cup reference btw. Feel your pain 😂
Thanks, David.
I discovered the rust because I looked for it. I had the car in my workshop in summer for changing the oil tank and whenever I have a 911 on the lift, I look after the usual suspects.
What World Cup?
Man, it´s so nice, to look to your videos!
First, I do not have to do this!🤣
Second, it´s a real fine work!😃
But what´s about the Alafa GT?!😍
Und jetzt mit dem Googleübersetzer:
Mann, es ist so schön, sich deine Videos anzuschauen!
Erstens muss ich das nicht tun!🤣
Zweitens ist es eine wirklich gute Arbeit!😃
Aber was ist mit dem Alafa GT?!😍
How ever, go on!🤩
Danke, Dirk! Der GT steht noch eine Weile. Sobald ich wieder Zeit habe für die eigenen Autos, mache ich mit der Giulia weiter.
@@GreasyFingers OK,wenn du mit deiner Jule als nächstes weitermachst ist alles ok!
Ich, undv vermutlich viele andere, auchf, reuen sich mächtigh auf weitere Alfavideos!
Porsche ist "ok", aber Alfa Romeo.....!😇
Some good repainting tips here. I need a detail gun I can see.
Yes, you do!
Thank you for reminding us that the torison bar cars are full of nooks and crannies! No fender liners or underbody panels. They deserve frequent underbody cleaning if driven in wet climates.
so then the 993 is much better protected?
@@Laguna2013 Yes the 993 has plastic wheel well liners. The 911 did not really become ‘rust proof’ until the 996!
“Wet climates” in fact is a point that cannot be overestimated. I’m disassembling a California car these days and the state of all surfaces is an entirely different story.
As usual, I am impressed... I really hope I will have that skills set with welding!
What do you think about Phosphoric acid to eliminate rust wherever tools can't reach?
I am chasing rust on my restoration as well, and I always do the "physical rust removal" (wire wheel) as much as possible. But rust is a b*tch that sneaks everywhere, and I am a little paranoid, so I always apply a generous coat of phosphoric acid to make sure whatever could have been missed (like in the pit holes!) would be chemically eliminated and passivated. Then, just like you; epoxy first, then stone guard or base coat.
Any experience with it?
Really love your comment, man.
In fact I used phosphoric acid during this very project, but I don’t feel experienced enough to really talk about it so I edited the part out. In this specific case it didn’t show any effect, but I generally believe it’s a good thing. I guess I have to learn the ropes …
You made a fantastic job of that panel J.. Fancy fixing the botched job the surgeons in KA made on my face?? I feel you are more than qualified............
Thanks, Mike.
Not so much into surgery. 😆
I would love to blast that section, it would be 100% perfect!
Where are you located, mate?
@@GreasyFingers Texas
Fantastic work as usual . Great technique and tools. What is the brand of the guillotine used. That thing is a beast.
Johannes-should we be excited by the Alfa GTV that is lurking in the background awaiting rescue by you?
Thanks, Steve.
The GTV is the one I introduced with the August film.
The guillotine is a no name one from Amazon.
I am curious to know why the insert was not galvanized before being welded into place. Great job and you have very steady hands. It's like watching a sculptor at work.
Thanks, mate.
Welding galvanised steel, the zinc will vaporise and inhaling the fumes is very unhealthy. This can be handled in industrial production and for spot welding, but making large butt welded seams in a workshop is a different story. You now might say: the steel that the repair panel connects to is galvanised too and that’s a fact, but I sand it off at the outside before welding and the zinc at the inside hopefully can’t be inhaled that easily.
She is a beaut
Oh yes, she is.
Love your videos. Did you consider using standoffs when reattaching the filler tube to prevent the build up of dirt between them? Just wondering.
Thanks, mate.
Either that or make the owner clean her better.
Thank you for these videos, I really love watching them but: You did replace the rusty panel, but not the spot welds that attached the old panel to the inner fender. Right at the location of the strut.
Thanks, mate.
In fact I did, but didn’t show it in the film, because the footage I had from it was really poor.
What rust converter do you now recommend?
after treating the rust i would get an electronic rust prevention system to cover the whole car.I have a 1977 Porsche with an ERPS kit on it!...my car is good.
I never heard about this. What is it?
Hey man, i love your videos! I have one question regarding repairs similar to this one, when you weld that patch in, how do you protect it from the inside? I see you put paint and sealant on the outside, but not on the inner side of that patch?
Thanks, mate.
I painted the insides with Inox spray (10:00) which is heat resistant paint. It will certainly receive some cavity protection too. Please see my video dedicated to this topic.
@@GreasyFingers great, thanks for the reply!
Great vid. Was the wing itself salveageable?
Thanks, Oliver.
I’ve called the customer in this weekend to decide. The upside to save it is that it’s really difficult to meet the exact shade of this metallic blue. The downside is it’s probably more costly to save it then to replace it.
The backside of the new panel wil rust again. You can’t see it but it needs protection to cause moisture will find it’s way. Therefore I would always try to reach it with epoxy ore a zink primer (no wax, that can melt in the sun)
Thanks for commenting, Dennis.
I painted the backsides with Inox spray, as you can see in the film. I will also apply the full Fluidfilm program to it.
I do agree, however, to all you say. It cannot be left without protection.
thanks for another great video!!! Question: I understand the explanation of the root cause of this at 0:30 but how can i spot if this area is rusty without removing the fender? i have a 1985 3.2 Coupe and everything seems fine from outside. Do i have to remove the fender?
You don’t have to remove the fender.
Just remove the wheel and the tube and see what’s behind. If you find dirt, clean it all up.
If you want, you can send me a picture and we discuss what you found.
@@GreasyFingers thanks for the offer. it's actually stored so i'll have a look next time i see it. will keep you updated
With the new china laser welders this is een easy job, i have one !
Tell me more ..
Nice repair as usual.
If room, A backing strip would make butt jointing easier on thin material or corroided panels 👍
Thanks, James.
Backing strip? Tell me more …
@@GreasyFingers if room … cut a strip of metal approx 2-3cm wide, make the same profile as the repair panel and place behind the parent metal and the repair piece… behind the weld gap so it over laps (behind) each panel, weld as usual and it stops burn through, the backing strip becomes one with the weld 👍
You can use a piece of copper pressed behind the weld gap as well, the copper doesn’t fuse and is removed… again it stops burn through… its a good method for filling pin holes.
And the copper backing strip/block takes away heat. There are also industrial ceramic backing strips for sale. Regards from a former welder and weld inspector (NDT)
Do you have links to the products used? You mentioned something about the jungle store... But I don't see it in the description. Nice work either way, giving this beautiful car lots of love and attention - lucky owner!
Amazon, video description …
Thanks!
@@GreasyFingers I must be blind - I don't see a link in the description for Amazon?
@@dra911 O Dear, my friend, I’ve misguided you. I’ve introduced the links one film after the one you’re commenting to. Please see yesterday’s release to find the links.
@@GreasyFingers All good, I see it now thank you!
Was this one really harder than the things you did to the Giulia? this one seemed relatively easy given its a hidden spot after mounting the fenders. 🙂
It wasn’t really harder. Just more of the usual stuff this time.
Repair turned out great! Would you share the model of paint gun you're using? Iwata brand?
Thanks, Andrew.
Yes, Iwata LPH80.
@@GreasyFingers Is this the LPH80-104G?
It is!
@@GreasyFingers Thank you.
Порше гарна машина...
I think that car is Baltic Blue, same as my 1989 Targa!
If it was Baltic Blue, I‘d have a huge problem now, but I’m pretty sure it is Prussian Blue. They released a different blue almost every year black then. Venice Blue looks similar too.
@@GreasyFingers i am an Alfa guy as well and so fortunate to live in California where we don’t have rust issues!
J- what spray gun are you using? I think you’ve said in a video, but I can’t find it.
Hi Scott, that’s an Anest Iwata lph 80.
Any news on 944? :)
Bad ones to your ears, I suppose.
I got a very good offer for her after I released the film and even more importantly, it came from a very kind person. She stayed in the US. No more films to follow about Loretta.
But be assured, I’m scanning classifieds already …
Hey my friend, please don’t wear gloves when using the pillar drill… bad news if it gets caught. Excellent video tho!
Good point, thanks for your concern!
Ich bin lerne Deutsch für Ausbildung in Deutschland. Mein Lieblingsauto ist Porsche 356, 930 und Trabant!😍😍
Willkommen, Andrew!
Bleib von den Mädchen weg, sie sind gefährlich.
@@GreasyFingers HAHAHAHAH!!
Vielen Dank für diesen Rat! LOL!
Hey, i am restoring a '68 912. And starting with zero skill and knowledge i am watching your videos in order to learn as much as i can. For xmas i got a book "Schweißen - Schritt für Schritt zur prof. Karrosserie-Reperatur". Now in there is a part the troubles me: TÜV :) and they say that "supporting body parts" - like the one your are working on - have to be overlapping & spot-welded (not butt welded). Whats your experience with the TÜV guy of your choice? They are cool with it - or they don't get to know it ;)
Hi Kristian.
Theoretically butt welding at high temperature might lead to the steel’s carbon to partly escape from the crystal lattice, reduce its tenacity and make it brittle.
I personally think that this is very unlikely to happen if temperatures are kept reasonably low. The problem is: it’s not possible to find out whether the steel had to endure losses of significant amounts of carbon and other alloy elements during welding, so the mindset of bureaucracy requires you to forbid the whole thing.
Since the entire TUV business had been privatised, I haven’t encountered much of the stubbornness of the old days and if you do your butt welding right, it’s invisible anyway.
@@GreasyFingers great answer - danke :)
Where is his shop or contact pls ?
My shop is in Landshut, Germany.
You can contact me on halvar.v.flake@googlemail.com
Hallo Johannes,
was ist das für ein EP Grund den du verwendest?
Gruss Fabio
Ciao Fabio. Es gibt nur den einen, so viel ich weiß. Die Farbe kann man wählen.
Die genaue Bezeichnung ist EP 100-20
@@GreasyFingers
Ciao Johannes,
danke für Deine Antwort.
Ich benutze den selben EP aber in hellgrau 🙂.
Gruß Fabio
In a thousand years from now archaeologists will find these repair panels scattered across the planet. The rest of the vehicle long-since returned to dust. What stories will they invent to explain the strange objects?
Man, I love this comment. Lemme publish it on Insta … 😆😆
@@GreasyFingers sure!
Is she yours? 😀👏
No, belongs to a customer.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks, Christian. 😊
Bescheinige Ihnen gute Englisch -und Dengelkenntnisse !!🤟
Gebe jeweils mein bestes!
Your english is not the yellow from the egg😂
Do you think so?
A good amateur job and great filming. Sadly not a professional repair. Firstly if you are welding on to rust you have not gone far enough. The only way to stop the rust is to cut it out. I noticed the steel you put in was rusty from finger prints, so you a using mild steel which is not suitable for Porsche repairs. It is too weak, especially in a stressed area and will rust again. Unfortunately professional Porsche garages like mine will not do these videos as they do not have time or want people to know what they do that makes the difference, but you have a few pointers.
A powerful ego is a positive thing.
It’s even more powerful when combined with humbleness, but I’m sure you’ll find someone who will teach you.
I think your videos are great. Well presented and thought out. So when did the 911 add fender liners to help keep debris out of these areas ? I wonder why they were not on cars earlier. So much road dirt gets thrown up under the fenders that causes problems later on.
Thanks, Kevin.
Fender liners first appeared in the 964, that means early nineties.