I like the way you work James, very methodical, not rushing through your diagnosis and repair. Always learn something from your excellent vids, thanks! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Great powers of observation,and great thought process ,my Auto mechanic instructor of 2 years from the 70's would be proud of you !! As we all are.Thanks for sharing with us
These models were well built back in the day. Components and materials were top notch. Great that you discovered the nut was in the way and raised the linkage out of the way. Another classic saved from the junk yard.
I am happy you found the problem was with the governor arm adjustment. I have worked on small engines professionally for 39 years and knew it was the first thing to check. Your assumption that if it very close is incorrect. I have had the same symptom and adjusted the governor arm thinking it didn't move but it must have moved an undectable amount because it fixed the problem. Again great work!
I agree. When resetting the governor, most times you cannot tell if the shaft moved. It does not take much to throw things off. I am working on another governor issue now that is fighting me. Similar droop. Spring looks good. Have tried several other springs and still no joy. Potentially just badly manufactured and the governor weights are not proper for the spring used.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
It's amazing how the littlest of things can cause the biggest of problems! Awesome detective work James, as usual; that took some doing! Great job on the outcome. And thanks for your videos. God bless. Rev. D.
This video certainly may help me in the future. I have a Generac 7000EXL, so a bigger brother of this unit. I am the original owner. I purchased the generator around 2005. It is stored in the garage. I only open the garage doors to take something in or our, so normally closed. The machine has been a reliable unit when needed for power outages. This video has a lot of information in case my machine starts to give me issues. The control panel faces a window in the garage. Sunlight does not fall on the panel, but over the years the paint has faded on the panel, but not the frame. So likely a different paint formulation on the panel. I will have to check my output voltage and frequency, just for grins. Thanks, Dave.
James is the wizard of Generators! Good job, excellent explanation odf issues! we all can learn a lot here! Take the valve cover off and clean it on a wirewheel and then paint with silver paint and clear coat....!
Great job, great video! I’m surprised that you didn’t remove the valve cover, clean it up, paint it, and verify valve clearance while the paint dried! Keep up the great work, you batted 1,000 with these three gensets.
Nice job, yes the governor is sensitive on those with the low idle control. I disconnect the solenoid wires on the low idle control when I set the high idle because if it has been messed with it can run away on you. After the high idle is adjusted you can set the rpm drop for the low idle control using the magnetic solenoid adjustment because it knows where it started from the high setting resting against it's stop point. I hope I explained that correctly. As always you rock.
Hi James, I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your videos. I have been watching for the past two years, and I have learned soo much. Your methods of disassembly, especially when things are old and cruddy are excellent. Thank You!
Doc, great diagnostic video. Sometimes the obvious is hidden by the forest, that's my problem, something I'm looking for and can't find is right in front of me all the time.
THANK YOU! Hurricane Francine is about to hit us in South Louisiana and my generator has not worked in a few years. Between the carb and fuel tank cut off I got from the Hipa store and your video I fixed it! While my 16 year old Briggs and Stratton generator is not exactly identical, this gave me the direction of where to look. Sure enough the governor idle spring p/n 694867 is NLA (go figure) I was able to get a spring locally and modify it to get me running! Thank you again!!
It's a nice feeling to see something saved from the scrap yard when a little tinkering can make it useful. The engine seems to be in good shape as it runs great! Thanks James for the great video.
That went in a completely different direction than I anticipated. I was thinking the governor linkage or linkage spring might have been dragging where it passes through the fan shroud. Nice job tracking down the problem!
Now between the new Briggs book and your deals I hope can set the governor on the 4-horse mower motor which is set up different from every Briggs 'L' head I've ever seen. An all temp starting system with the bi-metal and vacuum diagraph deal and set back into a recess in the housing. with 2 adjustments. Must be an oddball because the book has very little on the governor setup and supposedly covers all the 'L' heads from 81 on out to the last and mine is an 85. Oh well, such is life. Glad this one is straightened out now. Sometimes it's a trial and a half. BLESSINGS to all yall! Thanks, Pal!
I’m a huge fan of your gen repair videos. Here in hurricane alley, no one needs a generator until……. Generators are a premium price either new, used or non-running. I always look forward to your videos sir.
got new head for the generator will be fixed friday ,thank you for the help,would have given up ,the parts were not easy to get but can see the light at the end now.
I've found sometimes if you can't get the governor droop low enough without surging, is that the main jet is too small. This is common on newer generators that need to comply with stricter emissions regulations so they run the mixture lean from the factory. Replace or drill out the main jet to a bigger size until you can get the droop and surging under control. Going too far will make it rich, which isn't good either.
That's a Briggs generator branded Generac. Common unit that came in Powermate, Coleman and other brands. Most parts are plentiful or available used. I just put one together with used parts. It was eaten by pitbulls. If it was rubber they ate it. Sold it for a $200 profit. I've owned probably 20 of them and never found one with a bad generator unit. Most engine issues. Everything from valve, head gasket to carb issues.
I had 2 2004 yr model Colemans but I sold 1 for what I paid for it. It runs great. I haven't started it in probably 5 years. I have a 12000 watt one now in case I need it here in central Florida. It runs on propane or gas. It's set to go but haven't needed it. I've never ran it but did put oil in it. It will run entire house including central AC so long as I don't turn on all 220 appliances at same time.
Great catch on the governor arm interference issue. As I watched I thought...dang what on earth could the problem be now? Experience and skillful analysis comes through again. Well done sir...well done.
Touch and go but you got it James. That pin in the float was a bugger to get I am surprised it pivots for the float to work. Just a little bit too much down pressure on that shaft but you done good James. Thank you for sharing your video with us. Ed
Always on top of the repairs with plenty of information on what your doing and is very useful for those of us that do our own repairs. Tks Michael Keep those post coming.
I love how every time you put the small parts in the tea ball, you try to hang the chain over the edge. Once you turn the ultrasonic on, it falls in. Put a weight on the end!!!
When you described the governor arm drop, you could see the marks on the shaft from its original height. Nice work. But you really should support those float arms better when you're tapping out the float pin.
Great diagnosis and repairs. Stanley almost had it done correctly but you figured out exactly the problems and fixed them. Great job. Observation is so important when diagnosing these little problems. Perfect job. Thanks for the videos.
James I love your channel and content, also the comentary. You are very conscientious and very tedious when diagnosing what the issues are. I always learn something new every video. Great job James on this generator. ❤🇨🇦
I have a new Generac. Well, I have about 60 hours on it now. We get power outages for extended periods every year. Only thing that I DON'T like about it is, OEM parts are super expensive. And it's not electric start. I think at this point I will just get a cheaper Westinghouse or Ryobi electric start one and sell mine. This way I can connect it to my house with auto switching. Speaking of, I should send you this big box of Generac OEM parts i have. New in box. I'm a reseller so I often get stuff like that. I have no use for them.
I'd like to make a suggestion; you have several carbs around with broken off float ears... What I do is to put everything together and put a couple drops of JB Weld, or epoxy on he broken one, wih the pin installed. It will last as long as we do.
Very cool work James! Also great catch on the governor arm hitting the mounting bolt. You taught me something new today! As you know I have the 7,000 EXL, I would just double check the brushes and slippering assembly to make sure they're nice and clean as you shouldn't have too much of a voltage drop going from 123 volts ac down to about 116 volts ac at 2/3 load. It's great to see these machines still surviving they're very well built!!
The Generac XL series is well built for sure. One of my favorites. This one had me stumped for a while. It must have been just barely touching that bolt at times. And then I made it worse, but it got me there in the end. I wonder how many have been trashed because of that issue.
@@Bassguitarist1985 my XG10000E had the same governor droop issue. We spoke in another forum about it. I was so happy to see James face the same issues I had, and I tried every solution he did. However, mine still droops to 54 hz under a 2k watt load on a 10k watt generator.
I have a suggestion. I would fit a pair of heavy duty swivel castors that have a brake on them. Makes it easier to move the generators, & the brake will stop it moving around during operation.
You can remove rust and tarnish from chrome parts without scratching by using fine bronze wool. I restored a set of chrome exhaust pipes from a 1979 Honda 750 Four like this and they looked nearly new when finished.
On the rusted chrome, when it's that bad you can't really restore it. My trick is to use a brass wire wheel over it all, then use a high-heat paint to make it look OK. If you want to carry that all the way, you can block-sand between coats until the pits and edges are filled and end up with a very pretty finish that lasts; lots of work though. Using a steel wire wheel tends to remove too much metal and can even create holes which is why the gentler brass instead. Is it worth the effort? You decide but if that's the only major 'flaw' it can help considerably.
I kept coming back to the cover thinking, "Soak that overnight in a citric acid and water solution and in the morning clean and polish it." Drove me nuts.
You owe me a beer! When you started to remove the four exhaust bolts, I bet you a beer at least one, if not all four would break. Also, just remove the valve cover, clean and use Rustoleum High Temp silver spray paint to refresh the finish back to pretty!
I can definitely see why somebody did adjust the pull start to a much more comfortable position, pulling straight up to start something like this is definitely uncomfortable and hard on your shoulder, I'm surprised you didn't leave it the way it was.
I have one just like that, that I haven't used in a few years because the gas cap went bad and it was $50 for a new one online. Also, it only leaked oil when it was running and hot.
Another great video, Jim! The rusty valve cover really takes away from an otherwise decent looking machine. Too bad it wasn't replaced (if available). Keep up the informative videos!
When you tried to clean up the valve cover, and ehat shield, if they're aluminum, try Superior Products' Aluminum Brightener (O'Reilly's Auto Parts, acid cleaner) it will clean up anything aluminum like new. For steel, you can use Evaporust and steel wool. If it's chrome, I'd just use a chrome wheel cleaner for auto detailing.
"Bar Keepers Friend" will make the chrome and metal shine like new. Available at any grocery store, its a powder similar to comet or ajax. but a very different chemical compound.
Maybe I saw it on one of your videos, but I took two short 3 or 4 ft pieces of EMT conduit and bent them at 90 degrees. Then I drill and attached them to frame making two handles. Cost almost nothing.
I like the way you work James, very methodical, not rushing through your diagnosis and repair. Always learn something from your excellent vids, thanks! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
SubSCRIBE people !!!!!
Great powers of observation,and great thought process ,my Auto mechanic instructor of 2 years from the 70's would be proud of you !!
As we all are.Thanks for sharing with us
What do you mean,see if I can, James you know you got this!
These models were well built back in the day. Components and materials were top notch. Great that you discovered the nut was in the way and raised the linkage out of the way. Another classic saved from the junk yard.
I am happy you found the problem was with the governor arm adjustment. I have worked on small engines professionally for 39 years and knew it was the first thing to check. Your assumption that if it very close is incorrect. I have had the same symptom and adjusted the governor arm thinking it didn't move but it must have moved an undectable amount because it fixed the problem. Again great work!
I agree. When resetting the governor, most times you cannot tell if the shaft moved. It does not take much to throw things off. I am working on another governor issue now that is fighting me. Similar droop. Spring looks good. Have tried several other springs and still no joy. Potentially just badly manufactured and the governor weights are not proper for the spring used.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Great video. The small things make a difference. A clean carb, correct springs and correct adjustments
It's amazing how the littlest of things can cause the biggest of problems! Awesome detective work James, as usual; that took some doing! Great job on the outcome. And thanks for your videos. God bless. Rev. D.
This video certainly may help me in the future. I have a Generac 7000EXL, so a bigger brother of this unit. I am the original owner. I purchased the generator around 2005. It is stored in the garage. I only open the garage doors to take something in or our, so normally closed. The machine has been a reliable unit when needed for power outages. This video has a lot of information in case my machine starts to give me issues.
The control panel faces a window in the garage. Sunlight does not fall on the panel, but over the years the paint has faded on the panel, but not the frame. So likely a different paint formulation on the panel.
I will have to check my output voltage and frequency, just for grins.
Thanks,
Dave.
James is the wizard of Generators! Good job, excellent explanation odf issues! we all can learn a lot here!
Take the valve cover off and clean it on a wirewheel and then paint with silver paint and clear coat....!
Great job, great video! I’m surprised that you didn’t remove the valve cover, clean it up, paint it, and verify valve clearance while the paint dried! Keep up the great work, you batted 1,000 with these three gensets.
Nuance’s beyond my skill level, for sure. I had no idea, but now I do. Very educational Jim. This hour was well spent. Thank you
Just love it. You are a good observer - an important skill for a repair fella....
Nice job, yes the governor is sensitive on those with the low idle control. I disconnect the solenoid wires on the low idle control when I set the high idle because if it has been messed with it can run away on you. After the high idle is adjusted you can set the rpm drop for the low idle control using the magnetic solenoid adjustment because it knows where it started from the high setting resting against it's stop point. I hope I explained that correctly. As always you rock.
I do the same also
Hi James, I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your videos. I have been watching for the past two years, and I have learned soo much. Your methods of disassembly, especially when things are old and cruddy are excellent. Thank You!
Doc, great diagnostic video. Sometimes the obvious is hidden by the forest, that's my problem, something I'm looking for and can't find is right in front of me all the time.
THANK YOU! Hurricane Francine is about to hit us in South Louisiana and my generator has not worked in a few years. Between the carb and fuel tank cut off I got from the Hipa store and your video I fixed it! While my 16 year old Briggs and Stratton generator is not exactly identical, this gave me the direction of where to look. Sure enough the governor idle spring p/n 694867 is NLA (go figure) I was able to get a spring locally and modify it to get me running! Thank you again!!
It's a nice feeling to see something saved from the scrap yard when a little tinkering can make it useful. The engine seems to be in good shape as it runs great! Thanks James for the great video.
Hi James always a pleasure sitting in your class mate Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us As always a good entertaining video
That went in a completely different direction than I anticipated. I was thinking the governor linkage or linkage spring might have been dragging where it passes through the fan shroud. Nice job tracking down the problem!
Great video, thanks! I like to dip the exhaust in vinegar to remove rust. Just remember to paint immediately after.
Jim, I was actually holding my breath as you worked on that main jet......
Now between the new Briggs book and your deals I hope can set the governor on the 4-horse mower motor which is set up different from every Briggs 'L' head I've ever seen. An all temp starting system with the bi-metal and vacuum diagraph deal and set back into a recess in the housing. with 2 adjustments. Must be an oddball because the book has very little on the governor setup and supposedly covers all the 'L' heads from 81 on out to the last and mine is an 85. Oh well, such is life. Glad this one is straightened out now. Sometimes it's a trial and a half. BLESSINGS to all yall! Thanks, Pal!
I’m a huge fan of your gen repair videos. Here in hurricane alley, no one needs a generator until……. Generators are a premium price either new, used or non-running. I always look forward to your videos sir.
I am quite surprised to learn the spring and position is so very critical to the correct operation. Very informative video.
When it started fine in the beginning of an hour long video I knew we were in for an interesting repair video.
Every time I think it is going to be easy, I am proven wrong.
got new head for the generator will be fixed friday ,thank you for the help,would have given up ,the parts were not easy to get but can see the light at the end now.
Amazing! You know what your doing. You can show it in a video and also explain it. You cover all bases.
I've found sometimes if you can't get the governor droop low enough without surging, is that the main jet is too small. This is common on newer generators that need to comply with stricter emissions regulations so they run the mixture lean from the factory. Replace or drill out the main jet to a bigger size until you can get the droop and surging under control. Going too far will make it rich, which isn't good either.
That's a Briggs generator branded Generac. Common unit that came in Powermate, Coleman and other brands. Most parts are plentiful or available used. I just put one together with used parts. It was eaten by pitbulls. If it was rubber they ate it. Sold it for a $200 profit. I've owned probably 20 of them and never found one with a bad generator unit. Most engine issues. Everything from valve, head gasket to carb issues.
I have one missing the recoil starter bolts- any clue what size I need? Bought a new recoil, but no bolts with it....
That's a Generac engine. It shares no parts with any Briggs. Briggs may have made it, but it's all Generac exclusive parts.
I had 2 2004 yr model Colemans but I sold 1 for what I paid for it. It runs great. I haven't started it in probably 5 years. I have a 12000 watt one now in case I need it here in central Florida. It runs on propane or gas. It's set to go but haven't needed it. I've never ran it but did put oil in it. It will run entire house including central AC so long as I don't turn on all 220 appliances at same time.
Great catch on the governor arm interference issue. As I watched I thought...dang what on earth could the problem be now? Experience and skillful analysis comes through again. Well done sir...well done.
Touch and go but you got it James. That pin in the float was a bugger to get I am surprised it pivots for the float to work. Just a little bit too much down pressure on that shaft but you done good James. Thank you for sharing your video with us. Ed
I'm still always surprised what people just throw away.
Always on top of the repairs with plenty of information on what your doing and is very useful for those of us that do our own repairs.
Tks Michael
Keep those post coming.
Nice repair and wow at how sensitive that governor is
I love how every time you put the small parts in the tea ball, you try to hang the chain over the edge. Once you turn the ultrasonic on, it falls in. Put a weight on the end!!!
So true
Lololo I noticed that to and I laugh every time 😊
When you described the governor arm drop, you could see the marks on the shaft from its original height. Nice work. But you really should support those float arms better when you're tapping out the float pin.
Great diagnosis and repairs. Stanley almost had it done correctly but you figured out exactly the problems and fixed them. Great job. Observation is so important when diagnosing these little problems. Perfect job. Thanks for the videos.
Hello, James. More like poker than detective work this time. But you got the winning hand in the end. Good goin'! Thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
This is what comes of knowing what you are doing...a free generator!
Simple adjustments, springs, and a little troubleshooting the governor linkage makes a Big Difference! Nice work Jim!
Wow at the end showing that the speed is just climbing by itself
Good results James,it's the small things that can catch you out.
James I love your channel and content, also the comentary. You are very conscientious and very tedious when diagnosing what the issues are. I always learn something new every video. Great job James on this generator. ❤🇨🇦
Really enjoy watching you working and enjoy what you’re doing
Thank You Sir
It’s amazing how much we throw away, and how little attention is needed to make a piece of junk viable and useful.
Repurposing and minimizing throw-away in our culture is the key to conservation.
As always, James releases a chill video right when I need it.
Would be tempted to file the top of that bolt down just to give some extra clearance… what a weird design. :/
Nice work!
The last 10 minutes is what I needed, but watched the whole video. I have a much better understanding of mine now. Thanks for making it.
Sometimes the works of rookie techs make it a bigger challenge for the experienced tech.
Good video, James. That governor had me scratching my head too. Now you have another trick to put into your mental toolbox!
Hey James, it's always a pleasure watching your repair videos I always learn something new.
Thanks for explaining the purpose of the spring that runs from the governor arm to the carb, that one has always been a mystery to me.
Wow, considering how this generator looked like it belonged in the dump; it really cleaned up well.
I have a new Generac. Well, I have about 60 hours on it now. We get power outages for extended periods every year. Only thing that I DON'T like about it is, OEM parts are super expensive. And it's not electric start. I think at this point I will just get a cheaper Westinghouse or Ryobi electric start one and sell mine. This way I can connect it to my house with auto switching. Speaking of, I should send you this big box of Generac OEM parts i have. New in box. I'm a reseller so I often get stuff like that. I have no use for them.
That would be great!
Get a eBay starter kit and install it
This one was an easy fix, just needed minor repairs, nice work as always James!
Excellent diagnostic skills as always James. Thanks for sharing.
Thank for taking time to make the video, for me you point out several thing that I had over looked on doing my repairs
I'd like to make a suggestion; you have several carbs around with broken off float ears... What I do is to put everything together and put a couple drops of JB Weld, or epoxy on he broken one, wih the pin installed. It will last as long as we do.
Just a suggestion. I have a plastic tool tray from an old tool box that I use as a parts bin when disassembling things. I don’t loose parts that way.
I've said it before and it's still true, used generators serviced by you are better than new
I wonder if you can put a washer or bushing on the shaft to prevent it sliding down and potentially being interfered with by the bolt?
Master class, troubleshooting 101, great job!
james have you seen those hand held lazers they take off rust in one pass always where the glases they are very good
Very cool work James! Also great catch on the governor arm hitting the mounting bolt. You taught me something new today! As you know I have the 7,000 EXL, I would just double check the brushes and slippering assembly to make sure they're nice and clean as you shouldn't have too much of a voltage drop going from 123 volts ac down to about 116 volts ac at 2/3 load.
It's great to see these machines still surviving they're very well built!!
The Generac XL series is well built for sure. One of my favorites. This one had me stumped for a while. It must have been just barely touching that bolt at times. And then I made it worse, but it got me there in the end. I wonder how many have been trashed because of that issue.
@@jcondon1 who knows, I'm always on the hunt for a second 7kw or 7.5kw exl to compliment my existing one
@@Bassguitarist1985 my XG10000E had the same governor droop issue. We spoke in another forum about it. I was so happy to see James face the same issues I had, and I tried every solution he did. However, mine still droops to 54 hz under a 2k watt load on a 10k watt generator.
@matt dewater when the engine running does the governor arm have tension, as in it wants to keep the throttle closed?
@@Bassguitarist1985 yes. I updated my post on the Gentek website. Authorized service center can’t figure it out.
That was a tricky one, but you you figure it out. great video.
I have a suggestion. I would fit a pair of heavy duty swivel castors that have a brake on them. Makes it easier to move the generators, & the brake will stop it moving around during operation.
You can remove rust and tarnish from chrome parts without scratching by using fine bronze wool. I restored a set of chrome exhaust pipes from a 1979 Honda 750 Four like this and they looked nearly new when finished.
Thanks for sharing James 🦘👍
6.30.22 Another fantastic video James. Thanks for making it.
On the rusted chrome, when it's that bad you can't really restore it. My trick is to use a brass wire wheel over it all, then use a high-heat paint to make it look OK. If you want to carry that all the way, you can block-sand between coats until the pits and edges are filled and end up with a very pretty finish that lasts; lots of work though. Using a steel wire wheel tends to remove too much metal and can even create holes which is why the gentler brass instead. Is it worth the effort? You decide but if that's the only major 'flaw' it can help considerably.
I kept coming back to the cover thinking, "Soak that overnight in a citric acid and water solution and in the morning clean and polish it." Drove me nuts.
You did it again Jim! I always get excited when I see you have posted a new video. Can’t wait till the next.
Another good diagnosis and fix. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!!!
Thanks again for another great repair , always interesting story behind the repair thanks.
Thanks for explaining the governor configuration and interaction, off to the shop with new ideas! Thanks man!
Great find and excellent fix. Thanks James
You owe me a beer! When you started to remove the four exhaust bolts, I bet you a beer at least one, if not all four would break. Also, just remove the valve cover, clean and use Rustoleum High Temp silver spray paint to refresh the finish back to pretty!
I can definitely see why somebody did adjust the pull start to a much more comfortable position, pulling straight up to start something like this is definitely uncomfortable and hard on your shoulder, I'm surprised you didn't leave it the way it was.
Great troubleshooting James 😊
I have one just like that, that I haven't used in a few years because the gas cap went bad and it was $50 for a new one online. Also, it only leaked oil when it was running and hot.
And yet another engineering at its finest with the oil draining situation
Yeah that was gone to looking like varnish
Calm methodical thinking wins again thanks James ..
I don't know how new this is, but if it is new, I would take that 5500 watt rating with an enormous grain of salt.
Another great video, Jim! The rusty valve cover really takes away from an otherwise decent looking machine. Too bad it wasn't replaced (if available). Keep up the informative videos!
I agree, aluminum spray paint would work also
Well done james it just one of them sleep on it and go back to it and got it never all the same ! Little john from the uk
Most excellent video! Thank you
Enjoyed the video. And yes little things can make a big difference. Thanks
Was wondering if you wire brush and buff the valve cover then spray it with chrome paint if it would look as good as the rest of it.
Good video James..as always. I couldn't read the part number on the anti-lash spring and didn't find it in the description below. I need that spring!
When you tried to clean up the valve cover, and ehat shield, if they're aluminum, try Superior Products' Aluminum Brightener (O'Reilly's Auto Parts, acid cleaner) it will clean up anything aluminum like new. For steel, you can use Evaporust and steel wool. If it's chrome, I'd just use a chrome wheel cleaner for auto detailing.
Love the add-on handle.
Thank you so much for making these videos you really making it clear to me how to take care of my own
I miss seeing the countdown on the ultrasonic.
"Bar Keepers Friend" will make the chrome and metal shine like new. Available at any grocery store, its a powder similar to comet or ajax. but a very different chemical compound.
It’s not chrome…
I never understood the governor spring on throttle cable. Thanks
Very nice catch, Great video.
Wow, very intricate work, nicely done👍👍👍
Maybe I saw it on one of your videos, but I took two short 3 or 4 ft pieces of EMT conduit and bent them at 90 degrees. Then I drill and attached them to frame making two handles. Cost almost nothing.