It’s helpful but I think you should really emphasize how critical it is to find the middle of the stud- otherwise you may have 15 inches with no support. It does make for a tough cut
Getting nails out of mine was the hardest. Watched your video with the saw, and used the saw to cut the board to get a start on it. Sadly, I got my cord stuck in the circular saw it didn't cut all the way through it just the black conduit so I think electrical tape will fix it. Took me a minute to figure out how to remove the blade to get the cord out. Gotta keep those cords in view at all times. I don't use the saw often and usually on a saw horse. But I did get the boards up and I am replacing 5 of them.
I had to take off the boards that were against the house so the house could be protected from termites I tried removing the board screws by unscrewing them and the snapping off heads just slowed me down too much. So what I did to make it go by quicker was to get some drill hole saw dits without the center drill bit and drill around the screws and then a chisel to break off the wood left around the screw and whala the boards would come up and be removed. That was 10 years ago and I am still trying to replace the boards.
Curious about the difficulty in removing old, broken, stripped screws using prybar vs using one of those 'extractor' bits? I'm good with a prybar vs metal, but I seem to destroy wood when clearing this kind of debris with a prybar.
I don't think I've tried those but my deck was old enough to where most screws just broke off because they were so rusted. This reminds me I have a couple more boards to replace! :(
@@FishBeeProductions Right on, thanks for your feedback - and good luck with the rest of those boards. When I'm done with mine I'll send ya before and after pics. Thanks, by the way, for the videos - super helpful!
I would say that you can drill out the wood around the screw. pull the board off to replace the rot. But remove the rusted broken screw immediately once the board is lifted
it seems like the easier thing to do would be to just replace the entire board, that way you don't have to worry about fitting a piece in there flush. Or finding the middle of joists, etc. Just take the old board out, replace it with the same type of board of equal length...or am I missing something here?
If he used redwood at 3x the price, trust me, u would want to save money here and there. Obviously, if money & car space were not an issue replace the whole board.
In my situation, and maybe others, the rails are sitting on top of the board, I would have to take the whole railing off to replace a piece of wood, or I could cut it and replace that part that is rotted.
standard size treated lumber 5/4 decking boards you can get from lowes or home depot, i just replaced every board on my deck this past month as i was running out of band aid boards LOL (the deck lasted about 22 years though!)
Measure twice. Cut once... 🙂 You've let several of the boards rot through. Looks like the wood wasn't pressure-treated? Had you rotated your boards years earlier, you'd find the bottoms in pretty good condition, as most of the weathering works from to top surface down. Also, you could rent a floor sander and resurface the boards, then stain them to get many more years out of them. Certainly much cheaper than replacing them all. Also, use proper 'deck screws'. They're coated to inhibit rust and will last longer, especially if you use a good stain to help waterproof the wood. Shouldn't snap when you need to replace them. Get ones that drill no more than 3/4" to 1" into your cross joists. They're cheaper and you don't need 3" screws.
i finally had to replace all boards and then i used a sealer a few months later thinking that would make it last longer but now it just has water sitting on the deck all the time since it can't soak into the wood LOL I think i'll let that wear off and not seal it again.
@@FishBeeProductions Water soaking into the wood is what causes the wood to rot and the screws to corrode, and is exactly what you don't want to happen. If the water stays on top of the wood, the water sealer is doing exactly what it's supposed to do...
Lol. I mean, you got it bro, but anyone wanting to DIY please watch a better tutorial. I mean, cutting into your good boards is a HUGE deal. The whole point is to stop the rotting, now you got two other boards that are guaranteed to havr rot set in unless patched.
I have another suggestion. Instead of cutting the end of that board while the end is resting on the deck, you should use that hole created by the plank you just removed. That way, you can easily avoid cutting into the deck surface.
This is one of those landlord specials. I'm renting and my landlord did this before I moved in instead of replacing the boards entirely and now the rest have rotted out.
I think it's a good idea if one doesn't want to replace the entire deck or have the $ to do it. You can fill in the gap w wood filler and it will be hardly noticeable. Yet you don't leave the wood exposed?! The entire deck needs to be primed and painted. (if you are new rehabbing your exterior wood expands and contracts with the weather causing cracks thus it needs to be sealed) As far as staining the stain will be uneven due to the old and new wood so painting is the solution. Even w pretreated wood I still use primer before painting. He doesn't mention if his deck was built w pretreated wood yet it appears it wasn't by the condition of the wood.
I actually did stain it all later and it just came off LOL. So much for that. Everything is still holding up but it will probably all need replacing before long.
@@FishBeeProductions When my deck was first installed the sealer put onto it was "bad". (A Class action suit was filed against Behr, but too late for me!) I had wood that looked as bad as yours after only two years. I sanded the entire deck before re-staining and it held up fantastic. It's now 30 year later and it's finally giving out. I'll be replacing it when lumber prices return to the realm of sanity! To put it more clearly, sanding that wood down to "the good wood" will give you a surface that will not only hold new stain but also last a lot longer before it rots out!
Don’t take your chances. Cut a piece of the same material, about 18” minimum, and make a sistering joist (kind of) for the replacement board to rest on.
He’s on a deck but he could of used a raised area to use the saw how it was intended; you don’t do plunge cuts with a circular! Set the depth unless you are that lazy otherwise why mess with fixing your deck?
Pro tip: Take off your wedding band (and any other rings) before doing any work that's not at a desk. And search for degloving videos while you're at it.
Could have used a stationary camera holder. It's hard to follow this like that. Nevertheless, thanks for the info. I more or less know what to do now. I just hope I won't do it upside down as per video instructions....😂
Why not just fill in the holes with wood putty? It's pretty strong and you wouldn't have the obvious difference of having a new board in with the rest of the the 30 year olds.
With the condition of the rest of the deck it's a waste of time. May as well replace the whole deck. Not to mention what the joists and the rest look like.
Willy Pittner, he stated right at the beginning that he didn’t want to spend the money redoing the deck right now. Cutting out the rot and patching in new will buy him a couple of years. I’ve seen worse. Not the greatest repair, I’ll agree but not the worst either.
Exactly. He can't repair it with filler etc because it's decking. He stated he doesnt want to replace the entire deck, jyst sections due to cost and convenience, hence he replaces sections. The repair is completed by replacing it. It's not the same for example if the ssue was on a shed, where you can (if possible) use filler and hardner in areas, and patch it up then sand it. The fact it's decking, which people walk on, it has to be solid. But even on a shed, if it's totally rotten and the above options won't suffice, you would have to replace the wooden sections/panels anyway. I understand the point but he is doing the repair regardless 👍
@@Lawton1111 Maybe that should have been the title of the video then, "I couldn't repair my rotten deck boards"🤣🤣🤣 Which is to say that he did not repair the boards as he claimed. Yes, he repaired the deck, but no, he did not repair the damaged boards. He got rid of them.
And then 6 months later you replace the other wood thats not showing the rot yet! Stop using the deck untill you can replace it! The expensive way is always cheaper in the long run
Good video. For people that don't have thousands to spend on tools and all new wood.. looks good thanks..
Wow... I happened to have the """exact""" same situation and deck look and was searching for solutions... Thanks so so much.
Thank your for the tips to make the deck more secured temporarily.
It’s helpful but I think you should really emphasize how critical it is to find the middle of the stud- otherwise you may have 15 inches with no support. It does make for a tough cut
Getting nails out of mine was the hardest. Watched your video with the saw, and used the saw to cut the board to get a start on it. Sadly, I got my cord stuck in the circular saw it didn't cut all the way through it just the black conduit so I think electrical tape will fix it. Took me a minute to figure out how to remove the blade to get the cord out. Gotta keep those cords in view at all times. I don't use the saw often and usually on a saw horse. But I did get the boards up and I am replacing 5 of them.
I had to take off the boards that were against the house so the house could be protected from termites I tried removing the board screws by unscrewing them and the snapping off heads just slowed me down too much. So what I did to make it go by quicker was to get some drill hole saw dits without the center drill bit and drill around the screws and then a chisel to break off the wood left around the screw and whala the boards would come up and be removed. That was 10 years ago and I am still trying to replace the boards.
It's voila, not 'whala'...
If you're going to steal from the French, at least spell it correctly... 🙂
Liked the music two minutes in. Wasn't a fan of that second song. Reminded me of crazy frog. Gonna have to be doing these repairs soon as well.
Pro-tip, use a stain/sealer regularly and your wood won't look like its from the 1800's
Good tip lol
Possible that's not from sooner, the 80's
Maybe they want to achieve a more rustic look.
Good job. Very helpful. Thanks
Curious about the difficulty in removing old, broken, stripped screws using prybar vs using one of those 'extractor' bits? I'm good with a prybar vs metal, but I seem to destroy wood when clearing this kind of debris with a prybar.
I don't think I've tried those but my deck was old enough to where most screws just broke off because they were so rusted. This reminds me I have a couple more boards to replace! :(
@@FishBeeProductions Right on, thanks for your feedback - and good luck with the rest of those boards. When I'm done with mine I'll send ya before and after pics. Thanks, by the way, for the videos - super helpful!
I would say that you can drill out the wood around the screw. pull the board off to replace the rot. But remove the rusted broken screw immediately once the board is lifted
Thanks! This was really helpful
Do you recommend painting the deck? I was thinking about power washing, letting dry and paint them
yes that probably would of helped mine
Good Stuff ! Very helpful and simply explained info thank you
it seems like the easier thing to do would be to just replace the entire board, that way you don't have to worry about fitting a piece in there flush. Or finding the middle of joists, etc. Just take the old board out, replace it with the same
type of board of equal length...or am I missing something here?
Seems pretty reasonable to me. Smarter, not harder AMIRITE??
If he used redwood at 3x the price, trust me, u would want to save money here and there. Obviously, if money & car space were not an issue replace the whole board.
In my situation, and maybe others, the rails are sitting on top of the board, I would have to take the whole railing off to replace a piece of wood, or I could cut it and replace that part that is rotted.
you can screw in another piece of wood to the side of your stud if you don't want to screw things in at an angle.
How long is the frame good for?
Im new to this . What kind of wood is that and size ?
standard size treated lumber 5/4 decking boards you can get from lowes or home depot, i just replaced every board on my deck this past month as i was running out of band aid boards LOL (the deck lasted about 22 years though!)
Where did you buy the wood from?
I believe it was from Lowe's
What is the circular saw blade you use?
It was an older black and decker. I’d get a 20v version now.
Great video! thanks a lot!
Measure twice. Cut once... 🙂
You've let several of the boards rot through. Looks like the wood wasn't pressure-treated? Had you rotated your boards years earlier, you'd find the bottoms in pretty good condition, as most of the weathering works from to top surface down. Also, you could rent a floor sander and resurface the boards, then stain them to get many more years out of them. Certainly much cheaper than replacing them all. Also, use proper 'deck screws'. They're coated to inhibit rust and will last longer, especially if you use a good stain to help waterproof the wood. Shouldn't snap when you need to replace them. Get ones that drill no more than 3/4" to 1" into your cross joists. They're cheaper and you don't need 3" screws.
i finally had to replace all boards and then i used a sealer a few months later thinking that would make it last longer but now it just has water sitting on the deck all the time since it can't soak into the wood LOL I think i'll let that wear off and not seal it again.
@@FishBeeProductions Water soaking into the wood is what causes the wood to rot and the screws to corrode, and is exactly what you don't want to happen.
If the water stays on top of the wood, the water sealer is doing exactly what it's supposed to do...
Lol. I mean, you got it bro, but anyone wanting to DIY please watch a better tutorial. I mean, cutting into your good boards is a HUGE deal. The whole point is to stop the rotting, now you got two other boards that are guaranteed to havr rot set in unless patched.
I have another suggestion. Instead of cutting the end of that board while the end is resting on the deck, you should use that hole created by the plank you just removed. That way, you can easily avoid cutting into the deck surface.
nice video and well explained
How does it look 6 years later
you should paint the new wood grey
This is one of those landlord specials. I'm renting and my landlord did this before I moved in instead of replacing the boards entirely and now the rest have rotted out.
Circular directly on the board without removing it completely is savage. You see a mark on the board done when cutting🤦♂️
I think it's a good idea if one doesn't want to replace the entire deck or have the $ to do it. You can fill in the gap w wood filler and it will be hardly noticeable. Yet you don't leave the wood exposed?! The entire deck needs to be primed and painted. (if you are new rehabbing your exterior wood expands and contracts with the weather causing cracks thus it needs to be sealed) As far as staining the stain will be uneven due to the old and new wood so painting is the solution. Even w pretreated wood I still use primer before painting. He doesn't mention if his deck was built w pretreated wood yet it appears it wasn't by the condition of the wood.
Incorrect. You never paint wood. For a uniform appearance, he would use a solid type STAIN with is opaque. Cheers.
I was waiting for the cleaning of the old rotting wood and staining it to help blend the new boards. Kinda crazy leaving it like that!
I actually did stain it all later and it just came off LOL. So much for that. Everything is still holding up but it will probably all need replacing before long.
@@FishBeeProductions When my deck was first installed the sealer put onto it was "bad". (A Class action suit was filed against Behr, but too late for me!) I had wood that looked as bad as yours after only two years. I sanded the entire deck before re-staining and it held up fantastic. It's now 30 year later and it's finally giving out. I'll be replacing it when lumber prices return to the realm of sanity!
To put it more clearly, sanding that wood down to "the good wood" will give you a surface that will not only hold new stain but also last a lot longer before it rots out!
Don’t take your chances. Cut a piece of the same material, about 18” minimum, and make a sistering joist (kind of) for the replacement board to rest on.
👍 thank you
I have 12 boards I have to replace.
I know what I'm doing this weekend 😋
Good luck!
Guy in the video sounds like Toby from the office
Spray each screw with a bit of WD-40 the night before, you will break fewer of them!
Wait, why not remove the whole board THEN cut it?
What about bees wax? I've seen that used for screwing in deck screws
Dude...use a T-Square and a miter saw before you cut your toes off.
😂😂
Thanks my deck needed one board that needed replacing
He’s on a deck but he could of used a raised area to use the saw how it was intended; you don’t do plunge cuts with a circular! Set the depth unless you are that lazy otherwise why mess with fixing your deck?
After you took the first board off you should have taken 5 more up and put down 6 new boards, then in a few months replace the rest.
Thanks for sharing the video
He had a tape measure and didnt use it!!! Also a speed square goes a long way
Thank. you for this simple explanation.
That's definitely not how you use a circular saw.
It if you want to loose toes though
😂😂 my thoughts exactly
Quite a lot of informed and critical comment below - with which I agree.
He is wearing me out. Square, tape cordless drill. Caveman style, we came a long way
This is perfect for most rookies.
you didn't repair the damage, you replaced the board.A cats paw would have been better for prying out the screws.
that intro almost made me throw my laptop
absolutely sam, i was about to yeet off my headset
No one is using Deck Joist Flashing Tape to protect your your deck framing from water damage?
no but i'll have to try that in the future
Pro tip: Take off your wedding band (and any other rings) before doing any work that's not at a desk. And search for degloving videos while you're at it.
the information is good but some of your camera shots are really dizzying.
zomgitslinda LOL yeah that video was definitely challenging to shoot by myself. I probably would do it a different way if I did it again
Could have used a stationary camera holder. It's hard to follow this like that. Nevertheless, thanks for the info. I more or less know what to do now. I just hope I won't do it upside down as per video instructions....😂
That music is very bad choice. For future videos, music is not required and often fround apon.
Imma fill it with rresin or woodfiller
Does the word tape measure mean anything????
New board will blend in and you wont notice them? Lmao! It's called stain!!
Always pre-drill the new board otherwise it'll split over time.
i finally had to replace all boards just last year unfortunately after replacing a few boards each year lol
I hate unnecessary (and bad) muzak.
"Replace" is different than "Repair"
Stopped listening early, couldn't take the music.
Sorry about that! This video was early in my TH-cam channel. Trying to make the music more subtle now.
@@FishBeeProductions Cool, I'll check out some more videos.
great vid
Those screws are not suitable for the weather
Terrible music why?
Sorry, just learning as I went LOL
Replaced, not repaired. Lame
Why not just fill in the holes with wood putty? It's pretty strong and you wouldn't have the obvious difference of having a new board in with the rest of the the 30 year olds.
Too big of holes and the wood is rotted unfortunately. I now have a good mix of new and old boards LOL
Nice video, I am dizzy though 😅
sorry this was one of my first videos LOL
Yes, Replace Bad Wood with Good Wood! Lol.
luckily this method saved me about 5 years, i didn't have to replace the whole deck until 2023 (22 year old deck)
Where's there's a will there's always a way!
Maranatha!
With the condition of the rest of the deck it's a waste of time. May as well replace the whole deck. Not to mention what the joists and the rest look like.
Willy Pittner, he stated right at the beginning that he didn’t want to spend the money redoing the deck right now. Cutting out the rot and patching in new will buy him a couple of years. I’ve seen worse. Not the greatest repair, I’ll agree but not the worst either.
I hate to break it to you, but you are REPLACING, not REPAIRING.
It's wood, not steel.
@@richardwang474 @ 0:11 and @ 0:22, he uses the word REPLACE. Do try to pay better attention.
he’s repairing the deck by replacing the board
Exactly. He can't repair it with filler etc because it's decking. He stated he doesnt want to replace the entire deck, jyst sections due to cost and convenience, hence he replaces sections.
The repair is completed by replacing it. It's not the same for example if the ssue was on a shed, where you can (if possible) use filler and hardner in areas, and patch it up then sand it. The fact it's decking, which people walk on, it has to be solid.
But even on a shed, if it's totally rotten and the above options won't suffice, you would have to replace the wooden sections/panels anyway.
I understand the point but he is doing the repair regardless 👍
@@Lawton1111 Maybe that should have been the title of the video then, "I couldn't repair my rotten deck boards"🤣🤣🤣
Which is to say that he did not repair the boards as he claimed. Yes, he repaired the deck, but no, he did not repair the damaged boards. He got rid of them.
Power wash deck ,change bad piece, deck over, last another 5 years or more if you keep coating it and no plant pots directly on wood 🤣
ALWAYS PRE DRILL
I guess I like to roll the dice to see if it will crack lol
THANK YOU, I mean compared to the
effort already being expended, it takes almost none
👍🏼
Ever heard of a chopsaw? It will save you lots of time. Please pursue.
Miter saw***
Misleading title. You are not repairing them, you are changing them. Please change title.
You need help
And then 6 months later you replace the other wood thats not showing the rot yet! Stop using the deck untill you can replace it! The expensive way is always cheaper in the long run
Why does everybody feel the need to add shitty music to videos
Sorry I just started my channel shortly before this video LOL
This was painful to watch.
LOL yeah it was one of my first videos
carpenter or not, you put the new boards in up side down, new boards will split if you dont predrill, worst diy video ever, LMAO
Casio Kraft Werk
LOL this process actually extended my deck life by about 6 years before I finally had to replace all the boards
@02:19 VERY DANGEROUS!