Great video! Can I ask a question? We have basement stairs with no knee wall--just treads on the stringer. We've refurbished them (removed carpet/padding, stained/painted, etc.) but we need to add a newel post and handrail/baluster. The only problem is that we need to attach the newel post to a concrete floor, so there's no access underneath. I was thinking that we should do what you've done above; ie., drill into the concrete and run the rod through the post, but how should we attach the post to the last stair tread? I believe our only options are to 1. cut away the front part of the last tread and mount the post to the floor at the base of the stairs, or 2. cut a hole in the last tread and mount the post on top of a block that would stop just under the tread, with the rod going through it into the concrete. The second option would not only have the rod going 6-8" into concrete, but would also have the tread surrounding the post on all four sides instead of only part of three sides...or is that overkill? Does this make sense? We have to do something, as we have a rise of seven treads with no rail, which isn't safe (it doesn't meet code and we've already had someone fall). Thanks for your help!!
If you epoxy the all-thread into a hole drilled in the concrete slab (which is typically about 4" thick) it will be more than strong enough to hold a 4~5" square hollow newel post firmly, regardless of what you do with the bottom step. I'd probably make a 2 or 3-sided notch in the bottom step for positioning of the newel and for aesthetics because you don't really need it for strength. If you do choose to make a 4-sided hole in the bottom step I'd get a newel post that's long enough to extend down through the step to the concrete rather than putting it on top of any blocking. Browse Pinterest for newel post design ideas and decide how you want it to look and go with that... should be more than strong for a reliable railing. Best, Matt
My engineering degrees are from a far less prestigious schools but I do have a tip when shortening threaded rod or bolts, put a nut on fist then cut and/or grind as needed. When you thread the nut over the cut it will clean up the threads quickly and easily.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Richard is fantastic, very talented, and has unlimited potential, but he is still young and learning. His version of this will not be as strong, using hot rolled flat stock for the upper clamp block. The rest of his design is beautiful. Not knocking him or his channel. I love his work and would be proud to produce finish work half as good as him. But I understand physics and leverage.
Thanks Tom... I don't want to give false impressions of perfection in the videos in case I have occasion to meet viewers from the Next Level Carpentry audience in person some day :-) Thanks for understanding and commenting... I really appreciate it! Best, Matt
Are you saying you've tightened up square nuts in basements under old newel posts or just other structural hardware? I've been around a lot of historical buildings but not seen this used on newels but wouldn't be totally surprised to learn it's the way it was done back in the day and that it's just new to me. Matt
MR CARPENTER you changed my life, keep in mind that you have a big impact on people, just want to keep going, and like you're work be proud of your life
Not bad, i have worked for a custom stair company for 31 years and have just retired. The way that was delivered was the correct way to get it done. I have to say there are a lot of people showing how to install newel posts ,set rails, install trim ,what have you, Next Level Carpentry knows his stuff.
I know this is an older video, but in case you still read these I'd like to thank you for your candor when you mentioned using a forgivably misleading adjective. It's a small gesture that speaks volumes of your character. Thanks for another great video. :-)
As long as you're watching and commenting, Chase, I'll still be reading comments 😀😎 Yeah, I end up with a fair amount of wouldda, shouldda and couldda's in video production as I learn the ropes of video production. A pro would have edited the script but it didn't occur to me until way late in the game. I do appreciate your compliment though... it speaks volumes of your character as well. Best, Matt
Thanks for commenting Eric... I'm bound to earn more of your respect if dealing with mistakes is what earns it... there's plenty more where they come from! 😂😂😎 Hope you find other Next Level Carpentry videos informative as well... Best, Matt
Hey Matt. Fellow master carpenter here. Also at the age where a lot of folks retire. Love the comment about the Eveready Bunny. I feel you, and I always feel it at the end of the day! :) Great video and technique. I've used this engineering on many different things through the years, but it never dawned on me to apply it to a newel. Just a friendly tip to all the aspiring carpenters out there, "You're never too old, or too good to learn something new every day!" BTW, was sent to your channel by Richard over at Finish Carpentry TV. He will definitely be a master someday.
Great to hear Dan... thanks for sharing for my benefit as well as all the future master carpenters who happen across your comment. I totally agree that Richard McMurray is a master in the making! Best, Matt
bish2t, fantastic... the reason I invest the time and energy to build the Next Level Carpentry Channel is to share stuff like this with subscribers like you! Thanks for commenting... it helps confirm that the effort is worthwhile :-) Best, Matt
I'm trying to help my dad put a railing on his steps and it's like the blind leading the blind. This videos helps me to comprehend the right way to tackle this project. Thanks!
Hope it helps you both see the light, Kathleen! 😎 There's a lot of different ways for attaching newels that vary as widely as railing designs themselves but if your railing style/design/type lends itself to this installation method I'm confident you'll end up with solid results you both can be proud of! Best, Matt
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have been struggling to rebuild a staircase, torn down by an unscrupulous contractor. The job I thought would take two-and-a-half weeks has taken over two-and-a-half months. I am now struggling with the newel posts--box newels I saw in a book by Andy Engle. This video offers a more powerful solution, than the 2-by-4 under-post blocking I was using. I just stumbled into your channel, today. Thanks, again.
You're welcome Sheldon... sorry to hear you're having to deal with fallout from an unscrupulous contractor... that's never a pleasant thing. If you're able to adapt this method to your project I'm sure you'll be pleased with the end result. The project featured in the video was my first experience with it. I was thankful that the basic principal is so sound that it took very little planning to adapt it to the railing/newel design I was using. I hope you're able to do the same with design adjustments for your project! Best, Matt
No BS, straight to the point professionalism 😉, I love videos like this ,it really shows this mans skills and tricks hes adapted along the way , thank God to TH-cam they won't be lost.
This really bailed me out on a flop house rehab. I work with the local Land Bank fixing up houses that have been seized for back taxes, with the goal of getting them back on the tax rolls. Typically this includes a new roof, kitchen, bathrooms and all mechanicals. In this case, one newel post was floppy with a shattered handrail connection, and one newel post that was missing (a 2x4 was screwed vertically into the flooring which took it’s place, though I’m not sure why they bothered). This was a 150 year old house & the drywall downstairs was already done, so I used this method from the top. I was not able to center the threaded rod, but I offset the hole in the bottom centering block, and the centering block kept the post centered. I also pinned the bottom of the post to the bottom centering block in addition to shimming as needed for plumb. I know I’ll be using this method again! Thanks!
Great adaptation Neal... way to go! It's a prime example of the strength and effectiveness of this method. Good luck on your future projects where it sounds like this might work even better for you. Best, Matt
Glad you liked watching this Michael... I've come to believe any time a hollow newel is possible it's the way to go. Compared to notching and bolting solid posts this is pretty sweet... almost like cheating! Best, Matt
Hello, Sir! I stumbled upon your video as I'd been learning what a newel even was. I'm attempting to replace my pony wall at the top of my stairwell with a proper stair rail and was stumped on how to secure the newel. I've got young kids that will one day become hefty boys, and I need to ensure that railing is fastened as securely as possible. I was certain someone had a tutorial out there for exactly what you described here, and the rest is history. I'm completely new to carpentry, and never having a mentor for it, will be subscribing and watching all of your content! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. I know I'm just one person in the world, but you genuinely helped me. Thanks again!
It's always nice to hear when someone finds stuff at Next Level Carpentry helpful in a tangible way James... thanks for letting me know! This isn't the only way to secure a newel post but it does offer some options and benefits that other methods don't. I'd love to hear you end up doing yours this way but it's more important that the project comes out so it works best for you and your growing family. BTW Check out a new video on Trim Carpentry TV (on TH-cam) where Richard uses this method on an installation similar to yours (I think). It will give you a little more perspective on what's in store for you if you replace pony wall with railing. Best, Matt
William, perspective from your 40 years helps you see advantages of this sort of thing, doesn't it? I was planning on making an oak 'core' for these posts that could be fastened (with great difficulty and disruption) to floor framing below but am convinced this method is much better and equally rigid. I actually had access to a good crawlspace below the two newels on the lower level in this video and STILL chose this method over bolting directly to floor joists/headers below. There's no doubt installations where a different method it better but I think they're few and far between. Thanks for your comment! Best, Matt
Great video. Best part is putting everything in terms DIY guys can understand and owning up then showing the do-over when you do it bass ackwards. Nearly every..okay every..project in my 92 year old house has been a do over just to get it right. Thanks!
Hey Beany Bee... glad you liked the video. BTW the do-over thing? Yeah, it never really goes away... much as I'm reluctant to admit it happens more often than I like... getting things just right takes extra effort. Persistence is always worth it IMHO. Best, Matt
it is true pleasure to watch a video where true expert and scientist present his work. I am a lawyer but I do enjoy technology if presented in such an easily understandable way. Best wishes and regards from Berlin in Germany.
I did six hollow box newel posts just like this six months ago. Very similar except I used 1/2” hanger bolts which have a wood lag screw on one end and machine thread on the other. I drilled the pilot and drove the wood screw end into the double joist below like you did. Then I used a threaded rod coupler to connect to the long piece of threaded rod. Saves on some customizing time and the threads are designed for holding in wood. On one section of railing I made the cap removable on the posts so I can unbolt and remove the entire rail system when moving large pieces of furniture around.
Great adaptation of this concept Richard... useful information for other viewers who's installation requirements and railing design may benefit for the options you found useful... thanks for adding your experience here! Best, Matt
APOLOGY humbly offered. Matt, after watching a first for me video of yours, I thoughtlessly suggested that the video length could be cut in half without all of your commentary. I was just plain wrong and here offer no excuse for my rude comment. Having now watched several more of your videos it is obvious to this "thickhead" that as well as being a master carpenter, you are also a master teacher who takes the time and makes the effort to explain in detail why and how things should be done. Thank you! Mike Clarke
Thanks so much for taking the time to redact your prior comment Mike. That takes a measure of character sorely lacking in the world these days and I want to thank you for it: no apologies necessary. Best, Matt
I will be doing new stairs and railing is an issues since I have no idea how to make it stiff. With your video and great idea now I can do this project. Thank you for sharing your wisdom in a way that anyone can adopt and comprehend. Thank you !!!!!
Hey Arek, good luck with your railing project... I think you'll find that adopting the principal of this method (if not the exact arrangement) will give you a stronger finished railing than any of the bracket kits available. Best, Matt
I had six posts to install on a newly installed hardwood floor. I followed your directions exactly and it worked beautifully , terrific idea, thank you !
I just watched your video after Finish Carpentry TV did a similar video, and yes you your given the proper credit for the technique. Great job, easy but very effective.
Gotta appreciate the character of a guy like Richard on FCTV! His abilities and that character will take him as far as he chooses to go... which will be far IMHO! Thanks for your comment Mike! Best, Matt
About 20 years ago, my brother was doing a reno for a customer that involved adding a small half wall at the front door. I suggested that at the end of the 4' wall , we run threaded rod through the top of the framing down into the floor. We had access to the basement ceiling below so added a large steel flat plate washer and lock nut. Amazingly stability once all torqued up.
Ingenious, sir! You are a natural teacher, full of all the necessary qualities to impart knowledge effectively. High praise, coming from a career educator, myself.
That was awesome. Love the part where what is required is, "holding your mouth just right". When that nut gets cranked down, you just know that system is solid as hell. That homemade tap on the end of the rod? Another awesome!
I came over here because of finish carpentry on TH-cam was bawling his own and I wondered about the bottom if it gets kicked out or something he shows how he cut in a metal plate for the top but he did nothing for the bottom now I see you did something at the bottom that he didn't really looks great thanks for the hens I don't know when I'll use any of this stuff if I do but it's always nice to learn new stuff thank you
Excellent solution to a problem many of us have had to deal with. I am definitely adding this to my memory “toolbox”. I don’t think I have ever not watched the. Entire video of yours.
Good to hear, Daynaleo, that there's enough to interest you in NLC video to watch the whole thing. It's always a challenge to know what to leave in and what to leave out even though everyone has a FFWD button to skip boring/uninformative parts. I'm trying a new video thing on the next upload where I plan to release both a 'Reader's Digest' version plus the full length one... if you think of it when the time comes I'd like to hear your opinion on it even though it will be a couple weeks or so before that particular upload. Best, Matt
HEY MIT dude! Great use of engineering ideas! I am so glad I watched this after watching the use of Newel posts...with the set those fancy screw/swivel bolt assemblies. However I had already gone out and purchased the 4x4 solid Larch posts for the Newel post or end post. Because it’s a sold piece I think I will drill a 3/4” double ended tapping screw/lag bold with a base on it about 4-5” long either way. The application that other craftsman had used was sinking about 4-6” of 1/2 of the 4x4 down into a pre cut, square hole. Because this is a stairwell heading to a basement and was completely finished and sheetrocked before I showed up to secure a banister with better rigidity, I can only estimate what subconstruction might be there. Your systematic way of presentation really invites novices like myself to glean much better results...in spite of our perpetual incompetence. I am an ICU nurse by trade, but learning is a way of life for us. Thank you so much for the time you spent giving us your knowledge and skills!
Excellent method! Best I've seen. The only movement is in the compression of the materials, which really cannot be removed without serious excavation of wood and drywall or lots of heavy steel plate let in to the existing sub-floor spanning to the next joist and welded inner core post, which would be costly and time consuming. Two enthusiastic thumbs up!👍👍
Great vid! Years ago I had a remod to do with a free-standing newel post that had been repaired several times in the past before I got to it. There was a triple 2x10 beam under the subfloor, so I drilled it for a 3/4" diameter iron pipe that I epoxied in place. I threaded the top of the pipe and used a block and a small pipe flange as a nut. The post hasn't moved in more than 10 years.
Thank you very much for posting. I've been a carpenter for over 20 years and one of the few things I've never done is an interior newel post. I feel a little more comfortable if I need to install one after watching your video
Thanks for sharing this. It might push me over the edge to try this, however, it might be beyond my skill level. Looks like a great and a real efficient way to go.
You're welcome... I think if your skill level has you ready to build handrails then you're up to using this method for securing newel posts... here's to your success! Best, Matt
I sure appreciate this video. I get so sick of wobbly newel posts. Ive used pocket hole jig to put 2 screws on each of the 4 sides of hollow post. It works ok with the big 6” posts. But im going to try your way next time. Keep up the great videos. Going to save me some headaches
It's a bit more work to do it this way but I'm confident its a great investment of time considering the reliability of the end result. Thanks for your comment skeefuss! Best, Matt
I like your way its very effective. I use to drive a 1/2" x 12" leg bolt with blocks just like you into the heather below by 6" and then snugly slide my post over with construction adhesive fastening it at the bottom with nails or screws hidden behind the base trim. Just my two Canadian cents 😎
Interesting adaptation Lino... I am a bit surprised that you got acceptable results using construction adhesive to hold post to bolt... I would have guessed it would take epoxy to be stiff and strong enough to be effective. Thanks for sharing all the same... Best, Matt
Been a stair guy for 20 years. I always install a full square post and just slide the hollow parts over it. Works good with horizontal bars. You can drill deep.
Great video, Matt. I’ve been installing railings and setting newels for 29 years and I learned a new trick yet today. Thanks. One trick I learned many years ago is that automotive body filler (aka bondo) can take a post from “real rigid” to “rock rigid”. If you were to mix a bit of it (feather lite filler) and apply it to the block at the bottom of your reddy rod and to the inside of the box base that slips over it, it will take most of the flex out of your post. Make sure to let it harden a bit before you clean up what ever squeezes out. Right when it starts to harden, the filler is very easily cleaned up and it will not stick to your prefinished post or a prefinished wood floor. It could also be used as the shim that sometimes is needed to plumb the post by letting the excess squeeze out from under the post, making sure the post is plumb and letting it harden before you tighten the nut at the top. It only takes about 3 minutes to harden. Cheers! J from woodatwork
Great tips Woodatwork... I use Bondo for all sorts of 'nontraditional' applications but hadn't thought of the use you suggest here... Thanks! Best, Matt
I watched the whole progression and wondered how you would install them in the end. Rod with solid result. Too cool. Great set of "how to" videos from start to finish. Thanks from Canada.
Hey Robert, Truth be told I wasn't completely sure how I was going to secure the posts myself! The original plan was to make an oak post 'core' that would extend through the subfloor and be bolted on below. I abandoned that concept the instant my buddy Jared mentioned this method. He's in his mid 30's, a real sharp and conscientious guy, which gives me considerable optimism for the next generation of carpenters! Thanks for your Canada comment!! Best, Matt
Very nice. Might I suggest, cutting a horizontal pocket into the 2x10s to slip a plate washer and nut into from ceiling elevation below. I know you're dealing with limited access issues but even with a small drywall patch this would absolutely eliminate the possibility of thread pullout. And of course as you mentioned not to compromise existing structure. You got a new subscriber and hope you don't take offense to my suggestion
I hope I never take offense to great suggestions like your's Matt. It sounds like a good method for any installation and a great suggestion if a particular joist is 'punky', soft or otherwise less able to hold against thread pullout. Thanks for adding it here... someone, somewhere, sometime is sure to benefit from it. Best, Matt
Hi Matt - anpther great video lesson ….your comment on "square with the world" reminds me of a Farmer friend who was told by his neighbor that his newly-built pole barn was not "square to the world" (amongst several other noted shortcomings, at least in his mind LOL). I'm also familiar with the "bass-ackward" method of install.....my Dad taught me well! Thanks again for another great video and the glass panels really set off that build nicely.....Roger
Thanks for your comment Roger... there's probably an app now that will verify whether something is square with the world or not! 🤣🤣😎 I had a friend from a farming background who loved to say 'can't get there from here' when asked for directions... those guys are full of such wisdom! Best, Matt
I've used a similar system and yours looks even stronger. The newel was located over an open section of floor, not directly over a framing member. The rod went thru the flooring and held in place with a nut and washer, and maybe another bit of plywood (been a few years).
Thank you so much for the information, I learn something valuable every single time I watch one of your videos, seriously taking my carpentry to the next level
Boy am I glad that I found your channel. Finish Carpentry TV mentioned you in a video. I'm a teacher by trade but LOVE carpentry! So very anxious to start catching up on your videos once school let's out for summer break!! Look forward to following you along...I just subbed. Have a great day!
Thanks for following up on that awesome shout-out FCTV gave me... welcome and thanks for the sub. I've a great deal of respect for Richard for what he does and how he does it... both traits sadly rare in the online world these days. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry 100% Agree and the reason for my sub. The people I follow on TH-cam all have similar traits - humble, down to earth people. Not pretentious...so thank YOU for being the way you are. All the best to you!
An MIT engineering professor, engineered newel post anchoring system. What can go wrong? You know its probably been thoroughly thought through. But my question is, how will the cryogenic expansion rate and thermodynamics affect your design? Either way, this will be my go-to method from now on. Thank you.
I skipped the semester at M.I.T. when cryogenics was taught and have regretted it ever since! Every day I show up on a jobsite and the first thing I have to handle is adverse effects of cryogenics and just stand there, flat footed. Wish I knew then what I know now Ralph! Best, Matt
Congratulations for leaving the 500th comment on this video! The thumbs down downers are always a mystery to me too even though I don't think everybody is going to agree with me or my ideas. Go figure... Best, Matt
Matt, I think you owe your buddy a beer for sharing that wonderful technique. Heck, I think I owe him one too. Looking back at how many times I have had to go into the wall to fix that problem and then repair the drywall and trim. I just shake my head... I love being an old dog learning new tricks. Tell your buddy I said thank you!
Awesome job Matt, I have seen many newel post anchoring systems but never that one. Always appreciate the true pros at work, thanks for sharing brother. Al from Maryland
Hey Al, you're welcome... the simplicity and effectiveness of this method is truly amazing.. always fun sharing 'the good stuff' with guys like you who appreciate it! Best, Matt
I have done this before and it works well,but only if you have something solid below and that is not always the case because sometimes your newels are not right over a joist are band but over plywood only and all you have is your bullnose which is 3\4 thick and newel attachment kit will probably be your best option are some type of locking key mortised in the bottom of the newels. I like this method and if all new construction would put plenty of Deadwood for this application it would be great.
Right you are Junkyard! For 2 of the three newels seen in this video there was nothing but plywood subfloor at the post locations. Because it was carpeting I was able to remove a piece, install 'Deadwood' blocking, and replace the plywood for fantastic results. If conditions don't allow access by any means then, yes, a newel attachment kit might be the only option. That said I'd go to great lengths to place solid blocking because there's no comparison in the rigidity of the final product. Best, Matt
Fantastic real world solution ! Worked with plenty of large solid newels back in England but never a box newel . A great concept and some good comments too. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks for liking and subscribing Marc. Since you've worked with plenty solid newels you know the challenges faced to get them solid enough to be useful. That experience will help you fully appreciate this method if/when you get a chance to use it. Personally it wouldn't bother me if I never had to install a solid newel again! 😁😎 Best, Matt
Hi Matt, Great method... every time i have done this its a love hate thing. I always get it to work but it is always such a pain. Your system is simple and makes sense, cant wait until I have another opportunity to try this out.
Ed, I know what you mean about the love/hate thing... I was prepared to do all sorts of laborious prepping and 'invasive carpentry' so these posts wouldn't wobble when installed! I was SO relieved when my friend Jared tossed the ready rod method at me... could have had a brain aneurysm when the flash of realization hit me for how much effort and frustration I could avoid. If/when you have an opportunity to try it I think you'll find many installations are twice as difficult and only half as effective as this. The ProRemodeler piece I'm writing will cover how I got solid blocking under the other two newels mentioned in this video plus a variation for conditions such as I-joists where a single rod in the center of the post isn't feasible. Thanks for your comment! Best, Matt
Take some tape fold it in half sticky side out and spin it around any bit with your drill until it is of a sufficient diameter to hold against the nut and drive it like a gear. Takes a minute or less and saves more than a few. I decided that was better than a pair of sockets hammered into some conduit. Plus it’s one size fits all.
One hint on those type of posts with no knee wall or 90 degree rail.....once you think its tight become the teenager that will live there and try to loosen it up by pulling and pushing on it hard....then retighten the nut....and add liquid nails to the hole the rod threads into...those shallow machine threads get break loose....liquid nails under the centering block wouldn't hurt either. Ive done thousands of stair cases at a piece rate where i would have to go back if things loosened up...one or two forty mile drives and 300$ back charge for finish touch up from the painter and you learn to over do things
Yeah ! It’s such a blessing to have You and Richard on TH-cam. Watching you guys videos make me love even more Finish Carpentry and take it to next level. Thanks a lot ! Happy new Year !
Very innovative! In the case of a solid 4x4 newel post, I used one of those metal plates that you route into the floor base and screw in a 9/16 bolt in the center of the newel that anchors into the metal plate. It’s not quite as rock solid as your set up, but still pretty strong!
Matt - this is phenomenal. Wow. Totally floored by your instruction, creativity, and top flight craftmanship. I'm doing a reno on an 1840 farmhouse and have to do exactly this with an added staircase. Thank you for such a well made, instructive video. One of the best I've seen. I'll dig around a bit to see if you have a newel construction video too. I have some ideas, but would prefer to see what you do for yours.
Cool. Do thorough reconnaissance before committing because there's a lot of things that can be a deal breaker for this sort of installation. It's amazing if you CAN do it though! Best, Matt
Thanks for sayin! This railing system upgrade from all wood balusters was a key selling point when it came time to list the house and the new owners loved it! Best, Matt
Hey Jeff, I actually shot video of the process but have yet to devote the time to producing a video from it... it was a challenging and cool project though. Best, Matt
You're welcome, Mark. Glad you like the videos... I really try to make likeable videos but it's so much more difficult than doing 'the methods' that I worry too much is lost in the gap between 'doing' and 'showing' so your comment is encouraging... thanks! Best, Matt
Hi Matt, I can see the video with windows 10 and will try again on my other computer tomorrow. That is a very slick method for installation and will keep this in "MY" bag of tricks, Thanks again. Marty
Marty Josephson I think you'll find this method works as slick as it looks if you ever have opportunity to try it. I wonder if your viewing issue is a browser slash operating system conflict of some sort... it would seem to be a typical explanation but let me know if you find out different?
Great video your methods are definitely next level. I disagree with the comment on lock washers, not needed on this no or very low vibration situation.. Thanks ....
Thanks Clyde... Seems the newel would fail first from getting slammed by furniture movers hitting it with a couch, appliance or piano before it would from a loosening nut, especially with how hard I was able to torque it down. In thinking about the comments I'd be inclined to put a dab of LocTite on the nut if I had any concern of it working loose. Thanks for commenting... hope you enjoy other related videos showing how piecesparts of these newels were made.... Best, Matt
Thanks for sayin', Drift Labs! BTW That's some pretty 'fancy' drifting shown on your Drift Challenge video... I didn't even know that was possible... nice! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you for your time and your response. Do you have any objections to going through the joist? Let’s just say You have easy access to the basement and your floor joist. Would you run the rod through the joist with another washer and nut at the bottom of the rod? Or do you think those threads in the joist will hold up the test of time? I worry about the wood expanding and that rod coming loose over time. I was thinking of through bolting it. Running the threaded rod past the bottom of the floor joist and installing another washer and jam nut from the basement side. Thoughts?
@@dfossilo You've definitely got more options if you have access to the underside of the floor. In my experience, the size of rod used in this video screwed down into the joist as shown will stand the test of time. If the pilot hole was too big it might not hold very tight. If it's too small, it could split the joist and not hold either. It's probably easier to drill a hole down through the joist and add jam nuts at the bottom but, if I were going that route, I'd probably go with 1/2" rod and a 9/16" hole. Also, if you have access below, it's easier to move the rod over so it's not centered over a joist and then add 4 or 5 pieces of solid 1 1/2" thick blocking and use the jam nuts you mentioned. Lots of options to consider and pick the one that makes the most sense for your particular situation.
Kinda like saying "great tips for placing dental implants if you have all the right equipment. Should do a video for DIY Dentists so I can do my own at home" NOT! 😧 Best, Matt
Another nice video. I’m late to the tip sharing game as I only found your channel recently. Something I like to do is make the bottom block about 10-12” long. It seems to add to the rigidity to the post. I’ve mainly use a suretite newel post fastener for these type installs and then slide the box newel over it with some pl. I’ll have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yeah this method is one of many excellent ways of getting the job done as are the methods you mentioned... they are all good to file away for use as required.
@@NextLevelCarpentry and I totally respect that. I’ve heard you comment that before in other videos. Unfortunately it can be hard for people to skin a cat in a different way. The video you made about the garage box steps is a good example of adding your cabinet making skills to a set of stairs. I believe we become better carpenters when we are willing to look at something with an open mind and from a different perspective. Again thanks for the content. I’ll be watching.
Thank you for sharing all your experences. I have picked up so many fine points from your videos. I would like to see a video on sliding miter box and how to cut correctly. Sometimes the saw grabs the wood. Am I not cutting deep enough I try to do a score cut first but it grabs sometimes. Thoughts thanks lou
Hey Lou, sorry I'll have to disappoint you on your request since I don't own or use a sliding miter box... if you can believe that! I'm able to do everything I need to do using the standard non-sliding, non-beveling DeWalt you see in my videos. You should be able to find a video somewhere else since just about everyone but me uses sliding compound miter boxes these days. Frankly the sliding feature scares me a bit but that's mainly because I've no experience with them. Best, Matt
Your saw blade might have what's called a positive hook angle on the teeth, pulling the work upwards and to you. Find a blade with a negative hook angle or described as being used for miter saws, they push the wood down and to the fence.
excellent video and method . i have been racking my brain on how to secure newell posts that will be secure on an outdoor set of steps to my porch. this is just what i need. i will dig post holes and fill with concrete and imbed the threaded rod into the concrete. i think i will use your newell post design too. i really like the looks of it. thanks for all the info .
Thanks Trainguy... I hadn't considered this method for outdoor use but can't see any reason it shouldn't work. Be sure to use galvanized rod, especially if you imbed it in concrete. Another viewer suggested using an all-thread connector which might make your project a little more manageable because you could imbed a short piece into the concrete and then just attach a long piece of the right length when it's time to install the actual posts. Not sure the level you'd try to use 'my' newel post design but I'd try to keep it to as few pieces as possible and minimize glue ups because an exterior environment is much more abusive. Other than that I think you'd get a great deal of rigidity from this method compared to typical post-mounting brackets, etc. Let me know how it works out if and when? Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry matt, i finally got to the newel posts on my outdoor set of steps............i dug the post holes about a foot and a half deep and let dry over the winter........this spring i drilled a 1 1/4 hole about a foot deep and added a 3/4 10 threaded rod with anchoring cement from home depot........the next day i installed my home made newel posts and locked them down with a 1/4 thick steel plate for a washer and a 3/4 -10 nut. all the posts are independent of the stair stringers cause they start a ground level sitting on the concrete and not attached to the stringers................one of the posts is 60 inches long and it is ROCK SOLID......they actually feel as though they are built right into the concrete, ...............when i saw your video last year and sent you a comment i knew this was the answer to my problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I WAS RIGHT...........THANKS.............THIS METHOD IS GREAT..............
@@yardlimit8695 thanks for the testimonial... and a full year since you first commented?! Nice! Glad to hear it worked so well for you... not that I'm surprised though😀😎 Sure a lot better than embedding wood posts in concrete, right? Hope the rest of the project comes together as well! Best, Matt
Great video! Can I ask a question? We have basement stairs with no knee wall--just treads on the stringer. We've refurbished them (removed carpet/padding, stained/painted, etc.) but we need to add a newel post and handrail/baluster. The only problem is that we need to attach the newel post to a concrete floor, so there's no access underneath. I was thinking that we should do what you've done above; ie., drill into the concrete and run the rod through the post, but how should we attach the post to the last stair tread? I believe our only options are to 1. cut away the front part of the last tread and mount the post to the floor at the base of the stairs, or 2. cut a hole in the last tread and mount the post on top of a block that would stop just under the tread, with the rod going through it into the concrete. The second option would not only have the rod going 6-8" into concrete, but would also have the tread surrounding the post on all four sides instead of only part of three sides...or is that overkill? Does this make sense? We have to do something, as we have a rise of seven treads with no rail, which isn't safe (it doesn't meet code and we've already had someone fall). Thanks for your help!!
If you epoxy the all-thread into a hole drilled in the concrete slab (which is typically about 4" thick) it will be more than strong enough to hold a 4~5" square hollow newel post firmly, regardless of what you do with the bottom step. I'd probably make a 2 or 3-sided notch in the bottom step for positioning of the newel and for aesthetics because you don't really need it for strength. If you do choose to make a 4-sided hole in the bottom step I'd get a newel post that's long enough to extend down through the step to the concrete rather than putting it on top of any blocking. Browse Pinterest for newel post design ideas and decide how you want it to look and go with that... should be more than strong for a reliable railing.
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you so much!
My engineering degrees are from a far less prestigious schools but I do have a tip when shortening threaded rod or bolts, put a nut on fist then cut and/or grind as needed. When you thread the nut over the cut it will clean up the threads quickly and easily.
FINISH CARPENTRY TV, brought me here 👍👍 Awesome Video ✋
Welcome, Daniel... it's tough to measure up to FCTV but glad you like the video here! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Richard is fantastic, very talented, and has unlimited potential, but he is still young and learning. His version of this will not be as strong, using hot rolled flat stock for the upper clamp block. The rest of his design is beautiful. Not knocking him or his channel. I love his work and would be proud to produce finish work half as good as him. But I understand physics and leverage.
@@mikemorgan5015 Thanks for your comment here! Best, Matt
I learn something NEWEL every time you POST a video. Thanks for the never ending tips!
You one-upped me with your comment Brett... NICE!! You're welcome for the tips and thank YOU for the chuckle! Best, Matt
😂🤣😅😆☺️
Brett Abadie hopefully you didn’t spend too much time thinking that one ☝️
Straight up! That was clever.
That is a rock rigid comment. Lol
Love the honesty showing the mistakes, the forgotten wood block.
Thanks Tom... I don't want to give false impressions of perfection in the videos in case I have occasion to meet viewers from the Next Level Carpentry audience in person some day :-) Thanks for understanding and commenting... I really appreciate it! Best, Matt
Nice job, but this is a very old technique. I have tightened more than a few giant square nuts in basements of old houses.
Are you saying you've tightened up square nuts in basements under old newel posts or just other structural hardware? I've been around a lot of historical buildings but not seen this used on newels but wouldn't be totally surprised to learn it's the way it was done back in the day and that it's just new to me.
Matt
I also love the honesty about the mistakes and wish politicians would think like you 😊
Wouldn't THAT be a welcome change to the political landscape, Ernest! Best, Matt
MR CARPENTER you changed my life, keep in mind that you have a big impact on people, just want to keep going, and like you're work be proud of your life
Why, thank you! Such an uplifting and encouraging comment to start of a new day/week... much appreciated! Best, Matt
Not bad, i have worked for a custom stair company for 31 years and have just retired. The way that was delivered was the correct way to get it done. I have to say there are a lot of people showing how to install newel posts ,set rails, install trim ,what have you, Next Level Carpentry knows his stuff.
I know this is an older video, but in case you still read these I'd like to thank you for your candor when you mentioned using a forgivably misleading adjective. It's a small gesture that speaks volumes of your character. Thanks for another great video. :-)
As long as you're watching and commenting, Chase, I'll still be reading comments 😀😎 Yeah, I end up with a fair amount of wouldda, shouldda and couldda's in video production as I learn the ropes of video production. A pro would have edited the script but it didn't occur to me until way late in the game. I do appreciate your compliment though... it speaks volumes of your character as well. Best, Matt
Well done, you have taught an old dog new tricks. I respect the honest way you treat the mistakes we all make.
Thanks for commenting Eric... I'm bound to earn more of your respect if dealing with mistakes is what earns it... there's plenty more where they come from! 😂😂😎 Hope you find other Next Level Carpentry videos informative as well... Best, Matt
Hey Matt. Fellow master carpenter here. Also at the age where a lot of folks retire. Love the comment about the Eveready Bunny. I feel you, and I always feel it at the end of the day! :) Great video and technique. I've used this engineering on many different things through the years, but it never dawned on me to apply it to a newel. Just a friendly tip to all the aspiring carpenters out there, "You're never too old, or too good to learn something new every day!" BTW, was sent to your channel by Richard over at Finish Carpentry TV. He will definitely be a master someday.
Great to hear Dan... thanks for sharing for my benefit as well as all the future master carpenters who happen across your comment. I totally agree that Richard McMurray is a master in the making! Best, Matt
The reason I subscribe to channels such as yours is so I don’t miss out on gems like this. Thanks for sharing this powerful technique.
bish2t, fantastic... the reason I invest the time and energy to build the Next Level Carpentry Channel is to share stuff like this with subscribers like you! Thanks for commenting... it helps confirm that the effort is worthwhile :-) Best, Matt
I'm trying to help my dad put a railing on his steps and it's like the blind leading the blind. This videos helps me to comprehend the right way to tackle this project. Thanks!
Hope it helps you both see the light, Kathleen! 😎 There's a lot of different ways for attaching newels that vary as widely as railing designs themselves but if your railing style/design/type lends itself to this installation method I'm confident you'll end up with solid results you both can be proud of! Best, Matt
I wish all videos on TH-cam had people that know thier sht like this guy. Strong work!
"Strong work!" I like that, Charlie... thanks! Best, Matt
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have been struggling to rebuild a staircase, torn down by an unscrupulous contractor. The job I thought would take two-and-a-half weeks has taken over two-and-a-half months. I am now struggling with the newel posts--box newels I saw in a book by Andy Engle. This video offers a more powerful solution, than the 2-by-4 under-post blocking I was using. I just stumbled into your channel, today. Thanks, again.
You're welcome Sheldon... sorry to hear you're having to deal with fallout from an unscrupulous contractor... that's never a pleasant thing. If you're able to adapt this method to your project I'm sure you'll be pleased with the end result. The project featured in the video was my first experience with it. I was thankful that the basic principal is so sound that it took very little planning to adapt it to the railing/newel design I was using. I hope you're able to do the same with design adjustments for your project! Best, Matt
No BS, straight to the point professionalism 😉, I love videos like this ,it really shows this mans skills and tricks hes adapted along the way , thank God to TH-cam they won't be lost.
Thanks Jeremy... I really appreciate the compliment! Best, Matt
This really bailed me out on a flop house rehab. I work with the local Land Bank fixing up houses that have been seized for back taxes, with the goal of getting them back on the tax rolls. Typically this includes a new roof, kitchen, bathrooms and all mechanicals. In this case, one newel post was floppy with a shattered handrail connection, and one newel post that was missing (a 2x4 was screwed vertically into the flooring which took it’s place, though I’m not sure why they bothered). This was a 150 year old house & the drywall downstairs was already done, so I used this method from the top. I was not able to center the threaded rod, but I offset the hole in the bottom centering block, and the centering block kept the post centered. I also pinned the bottom of the post to the bottom centering block in addition to shimming as needed for plumb. I know I’ll be using this method again! Thanks!
Great adaptation Neal... way to go! It's a prime example of the strength and effectiveness of this method. Good luck on your future projects where it sounds like this might work even better for you. Best, Matt
I watched a ton of these videos including the classic ATOH. This was the only video that was worth it and described the process entirely. Kudos.
You make an excellent argument for a hollow newel post. Enjoyed watching your work.
Glad you liked watching this Michael... I've come to believe any time a hollow newel is possible it's the way to go. Compared to notching and bolting solid posts this is pretty sweet... almost like cheating! Best, Matt
Wobbly posts is a very common problem even in new construction. This looks like a brilliant solution.
Hello, Sir! I stumbled upon your video as I'd been learning what a newel even was. I'm attempting to replace my pony wall at the top of my stairwell with a proper stair rail and was stumped on how to secure the newel. I've got young kids that will one day become hefty boys, and I need to ensure that railing is fastened as securely as possible. I was certain someone had a tutorial out there for exactly what you described here, and the rest is history.
I'm completely new to carpentry, and never having a mentor for it, will be subscribing and watching all of your content! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. I know I'm just one person in the world, but you genuinely helped me. Thanks again!
It's always nice to hear when someone finds stuff at Next Level Carpentry helpful in a tangible way James... thanks for letting me know! This isn't the only way to secure a newel post but it does offer some options and benefits that other methods don't. I'd love to hear you end up doing yours this way but it's more important that the project comes out so it works best for you and your growing family. BTW Check out a new video on Trim Carpentry TV (on TH-cam) where Richard uses this method on an installation similar to yours (I think). It will give you a little more perspective on what's in store for you if you replace pony wall with railing. Best, Matt
The best method I have seen in 40 years, other than access to the bottom and fastening to the floor framing
William, perspective from your 40 years helps you see advantages of this sort of thing, doesn't it? I was planning on making an oak 'core' for these posts that could be fastened (with great difficulty and disruption) to floor framing below but am convinced this method is much better and equally rigid. I actually had access to a good crawlspace below the two newels on the lower level in this video and STILL chose this method over bolting directly to floor joists/headers below. There's no doubt installations where a different method it better but I think they're few and far between. Thanks for your comment! Best, Matt
Great video. Best part is putting everything in terms DIY guys can understand and owning up then showing the do-over when you do it bass ackwards. Nearly every..okay every..project in my 92 year old house has been a do over just to get it right. Thanks!
Hey Beany Bee... glad you liked the video. BTW the do-over thing? Yeah, it never really goes away... much as I'm reluctant to admit it happens more often than I like... getting things just right takes extra effort. Persistence is always worth it IMHO. Best, Matt
it is true pleasure to watch a video where true expert and scientist present his work. I am a lawyer but I do enjoy technology if presented in such an easily understandable way.
Best wishes and regards from Berlin in Germany.
Shout out to Berlin... thanks for commenting Blaster53! Best, Matt
Bless you, sir, for effective use of a wireless mic. It's rare in these DIY videos.
That mic gives me fits with it's delicacy and quirks but glad you approve of how it works... when it does! Best, Matt
I did six hollow box newel posts just like this six months ago. Very similar except I used 1/2” hanger bolts which have a wood lag screw on one end and machine thread on the other. I drilled the pilot and drove the wood screw end into the double joist below like you did. Then I used a threaded rod coupler to connect to the long piece of threaded rod. Saves on some customizing time and the threads are designed for holding in wood. On one section of railing I made the cap removable on the posts so I can unbolt and remove the entire rail system when moving large pieces of furniture around.
Great adaptation of this concept Richard... useful information for other viewers who's installation requirements and railing design may benefit for the options you found useful... thanks for adding your experience here! Best, Matt
APOLOGY humbly offered. Matt, after watching a first for me video of yours, I thoughtlessly suggested that the video length could be cut in half without all of your commentary. I was just plain wrong and here offer no excuse for my rude comment. Having now watched several more of your videos it is obvious to this "thickhead" that as well as being a master carpenter, you are also a master teacher who takes the time and makes the effort to explain in detail why and how things should be done. Thank you! Mike Clarke
Thanks so much for taking the time to redact your prior comment Mike. That takes a measure of character sorely lacking in the world these days and I want to thank you for it: no apologies necessary. Best, Matt
I will be doing new stairs and railing is an issues since I have no idea how to make it stiff. With your video and great idea now I can do this project. Thank you for sharing your wisdom in a way that anyone can adopt and comprehend. Thank you !!!!!
Hey Arek, good luck with your railing project... I think you'll find that adopting the principal of this method (if not the exact arrangement) will give you a stronger finished railing than any of the bracket kits available. Best, Matt
I had six posts to install on a newly installed hardwood floor. I followed your directions exactly and it worked beautifully , terrific idea, thank you !
Sounds like a perfect application for this method... glad to hear it worked out so well for you Kent... thanks for sharing! Best, Matt
I just watched your video after Finish Carpentry TV did a similar video, and yes you your given the proper credit for the technique. Great job, easy but very effective.
Gotta appreciate the character of a guy like Richard on FCTV! His abilities and that character will take him as far as he chooses to go... which will be far IMHO! Thanks for your comment Mike! Best, Matt
About 20 years ago, my brother was doing a reno for a customer that involved adding a small half wall at the front door. I suggested that at the end of the 4' wall , we run threaded rod through the top of the framing down into the floor. We had access to the basement ceiling below so added a large steel flat plate washer and lock nut. Amazingly stability once all torqued up.
Amazing how the physics of all the pieces come together for stability, isn't it? Best, Matt
Ingenious, sir! You are a natural teacher, full of all the necessary qualities to impart knowledge effectively. High praise, coming from a career educator, myself.
That was awesome. Love the part where what is required is, "holding your mouth just right". When that nut gets cranked down, you just know that system is solid as hell. That homemade tap on the end of the rod? Another awesome!
I came over here because of finish carpentry on TH-cam was bawling his own and I wondered about the bottom if it gets kicked out or something he shows how he cut in a metal plate for the top but he did nothing for the bottom now I see you did something at the bottom that he didn't really looks great thanks for the hens I don't know when I'll use any of this stuff if I do but it's always nice to learn new stuff thank you
Excellent solution to a problem many of us have had to deal with. I am definitely adding this to my memory “toolbox”. I don’t think I have ever not watched the. Entire video of yours.
Good to hear, Daynaleo, that there's enough to interest you in NLC video to watch the whole thing. It's always a challenge to know what to leave in and what to leave out even though everyone has a FFWD button to skip boring/uninformative parts. I'm trying a new video thing on the next upload where I plan to release both a 'Reader's Digest' version plus the full length one... if you think of it when the time comes I'd like to hear your opinion on it even though it will be a couple weeks or so before that particular upload. Best, Matt
HEY MIT dude! Great use of engineering ideas! I am so glad I watched this after watching the use of Newel posts...with the set those fancy screw/swivel bolt assemblies. However I had already gone out and purchased the 4x4 solid Larch posts for the Newel post or end post. Because it’s a sold piece I think I will drill a 3/4” double ended tapping screw/lag bold with a base on it about 4-5” long either way. The application that other craftsman had used was sinking about 4-6” of 1/2 of the 4x4 down into a pre cut, square hole. Because this is a stairwell heading to a basement and was completely finished and sheetrocked before I showed up to secure a banister with better rigidity, I can only estimate what subconstruction might be there. Your systematic way of presentation really invites novices like myself to glean much better results...in spite of our perpetual incompetence. I am an ICU nurse by trade, but learning is a way of life for us. Thank you so much for the time you spent giving us your knowledge and skills!
I recently learned a great tip for cutting allthread. Simply rotate it as you cut it and it'll be darn clean and ready to go.
Excellent method! Best I've seen. The only movement is in the compression of the materials, which really cannot be removed without serious excavation of wood and drywall or lots of heavy steel plate let in to the existing sub-floor spanning to the next joist and welded inner core post, which would be costly and time consuming. Two enthusiastic thumbs up!👍👍
I respect your obvious in-depth knowledge of physics on this Mike... insightful and polite... thank you! Best, Matt
Great vid! Years ago I had a remod to do with a free-standing newel post that had been repaired several times in the past before I got to it. There was a triple 2x10 beam under the subfloor, so I drilled it for a 3/4" diameter iron pipe that I epoxied in place. I threaded the top of the pipe and used a block and a small pipe flange as a nut. The post hasn't moved in more than 10 years.
Thank you very much for posting. I've been a carpenter for over 20 years and one of the few things I've never done is an interior newel post. I feel a little more comfortable if I need to install one after watching your video
Thanks for sharing this. It might push me over the edge to try this, however, it might be beyond my skill level. Looks like a great and a real efficient way to go.
You're welcome... I think if your skill level has you ready to build handrails then you're up to using this method for securing newel posts... here's to your success! Best, Matt
I sure appreciate this video. I get so sick of wobbly newel posts. Ive used pocket hole jig to put 2 screws on each of the 4 sides of hollow post. It works ok with the big 6” posts. But im going to try your way next time. Keep up the great videos. Going to save me some headaches
It's a bit more work to do it this way but I'm confident its a great investment of time considering the reliability of the end result. Thanks for your comment skeefuss! Best, Matt
Genius -simplicity and strength; kudos to the mit engineer.
I like your way its very effective. I use to drive a 1/2" x 12" leg bolt with blocks just like you into the heather below by 6" and then snugly slide my post over with construction adhesive fastening it at the bottom with nails or screws hidden behind the base trim. Just my two Canadian cents 😎
Interesting adaptation Lino... I am a bit surprised that you got acceptable results using construction adhesive to hold post to bolt... I would have guessed it would take epoxy to be stiff and strong enough to be effective. Thanks for sharing all the same... Best, Matt
Been a stair guy for 20 years. I always install a full square post and just slide the hollow parts over it. Works good with horizontal bars. You can drill deep.
20 years in... and you just learned something new, right? Never too old to stop learning and improving IMHO...
Great video, Matt. I’ve been installing railings and setting newels for 29 years and I learned a new trick yet today. Thanks.
One trick I learned many years ago is that automotive body filler (aka bondo) can take a post from “real rigid” to “rock rigid”. If you were to mix a bit of it (feather lite filler) and apply it to the block at the bottom of your reddy rod and to the inside of the box base that slips over it, it will take most of the flex out of your post.
Make sure to let it harden a bit before you clean up what ever squeezes out. Right when it starts to harden, the filler is very easily cleaned up and it will not stick to your prefinished post or a prefinished wood floor. It could also be used as the shim that sometimes is needed to plumb the post by letting the excess squeeze out from under the post, making sure the post is plumb and letting it harden before you tighten the nut at the top. It only takes about 3 minutes to harden.
Cheers! J from woodatwork
Great tips Woodatwork... I use Bondo for all sorts of 'nontraditional' applications but hadn't thought of the use you suggest here... Thanks! Best, Matt
I watched the whole progression and wondered how you would install them in the end. Rod with solid result. Too cool. Great set of "how to" videos from start to finish. Thanks from Canada.
Hey Robert, Truth be told I wasn't completely sure how I was going to secure the posts myself! The original plan was to make an oak post 'core' that would extend through the subfloor and be bolted on below. I abandoned that concept the instant my buddy Jared mentioned this method. He's in his mid 30's, a real sharp and conscientious guy, which gives me considerable optimism for the next generation of carpenters! Thanks for your Canada comment!! Best, Matt
VERY cool. I always get some good ideas from you! Thank you. As a retired Machinist, turned “wood worker”, I can take all the advice I can get!
Very nice. Might I suggest, cutting a horizontal pocket into the 2x10s to slip a plate washer and nut into from ceiling elevation below. I know you're dealing with limited access issues but even with a small drywall patch this would absolutely eliminate the possibility of thread pullout. And of course as you mentioned not to compromise existing structure. You got a new subscriber and hope you don't take offense to my suggestion
I hope I never take offense to great suggestions like your's Matt. It sounds like a good method for any installation and a great suggestion if a particular joist is 'punky', soft or otherwise less able to hold against thread pullout. Thanks for adding it here... someone, somewhere, sometime is sure to benefit from it. Best, Matt
Matt, used method you shared after your friend shared. FANTASTIC results. Thank you.Gary Kerr Dream Your Home LLC
Nice Gary... thanks for sharing too! Best, Matt
Matt, you're a life saver. I have to do precisely this job next week, and it's been giving me nightmares.
As long as get the all-thread driven into a solid joist or added blocking you'll be golden! Good luck to you on your project... Best, Matt
Love the honesty showing the mistakes great video again
Thanks ask234b... plenty more mistakes where that one came from 😰😁😎 Best, Matt
Hi Matt - anpther great video lesson ….your comment on "square with the world" reminds me of a Farmer friend who was told by his neighbor that his newly-built pole barn was not "square to the world" (amongst several other noted shortcomings, at least in his mind LOL). I'm also familiar with the "bass-ackward" method of install.....my Dad taught me well! Thanks again for another great video and the glass panels really set off that build nicely.....Roger
Thanks for your comment Roger... there's probably an app now that will verify whether something is square with the world or not! 🤣🤣😎 I had a friend from a farming background who loved to say 'can't get there from here' when asked for directions... those guys are full of such wisdom! Best, Matt
Fantastic. Thanks for teaching me. I also appreciate your great sense of humour!
You're welcome LitoGeorge... glad you like it and are able to put up with my often lame sense of humor. Best, Matt
I've used a similar system and yours looks even stronger. The newel was located over an open section of floor, not directly over a framing member. The rod went thru the flooring and held in place with a nut and washer, and maybe another bit of plywood (been a few years).
Nice to have access to a Master Finish Carpenter. Thank you.
Genius use of all thread. Thank you for sharing. I am going to use this on my new stairs.
Thank you so much for the information, I learn something valuable every single time I watch one of your videos, seriously taking my carpentry to the next level
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing to Next Level Carpentry Dave! Much appreciated... Best, Matt
Hey Matt, I used your Newell post and all thread technique on a little project recently, and I have to say, it’s pretty amazing. Thank you.
Great to hear it Paul... thanks for watching and commenting here! Best, Matt
Boy am I glad that I found your channel. Finish Carpentry TV mentioned you in a video. I'm a teacher by trade but LOVE carpentry! So very anxious to start catching up on your videos once school let's out for summer break!! Look forward to following you along...I just subbed. Have a great day!
Thanks for following up on that awesome shout-out FCTV gave me... welcome and thanks for the sub. I've a great deal of respect for Richard for what he does and how he does it... both traits sadly rare in the online world these days. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry 100% Agree and the reason for my sub. The people I follow on TH-cam all have similar traits - humble, down to earth people. Not pretentious...so thank YOU for being the way you are. All the best to you!
An MIT engineering professor, engineered newel post anchoring system. What can go wrong? You know its probably been thoroughly thought through. But my question is, how will the cryogenic expansion rate and thermodynamics affect your design? Either way, this will be my go-to method from now on. Thank you.
I skipped the semester at M.I.T. when cryogenics was taught and have regretted it ever since! Every day I show up on a jobsite and the first thing I have to handle is adverse effects of cryogenics and just stand there, flat footed. Wish I knew then what I know now Ralph! Best, Matt
Great idea, I just don't understand why some idiots have to leave thumbs down.
Congratulations for leaving the 500th comment on this video! The thumbs down downers are always a mystery to me too even though I don't think everybody is going to agree with me or my ideas. Go figure... Best, Matt
Matt, I think you owe your buddy a beer for sharing that wonderful technique. Heck, I think I owe him one too. Looking back at how many times I have had to go into the wall to fix that problem and then repair the drywall and trim. I just shake my head... I love being an old dog learning new tricks. Tell your buddy I said thank you!
Thanks for the video, just installed a handrail using this method and it worked great.
Glad to hear it Peter... thanks for sharing! Best, Matt
I love how the cat in the drawing has some prey in his mouth! Our cat is a hunter.
This was absolutely delightful! Honest and to the point! Definitely going to keep this in mind in the future!
Great to have in your 'bag-o-tricks' Shannon! Best, Matt
Awesome job Matt, I have seen many newel post anchoring systems but never that one. Always appreciate the true pros at work, thanks for sharing brother.
Al from Maryland
Hey Al, you're welcome... the simplicity and effectiveness of this method is truly amazing.. always fun sharing 'the good stuff' with guys like you who appreciate it! Best, Matt
Thank you for your demonstration... and your honesty. 👍
You're welcome for both Tu te Kohe... Best, Matt
I have done this before and it works well,but only if you have something solid below and that is not always the case because sometimes your newels are not right over a joist are band but over plywood only and all you have is your bullnose which is 3\4 thick and newel attachment kit will probably be your best option are some type of locking key mortised in the bottom of the newels. I like this method and if all new construction would put plenty of Deadwood for this application it would be great.
Right you are Junkyard! For 2 of the three newels seen in this video there was nothing but plywood subfloor at the post locations. Because it was carpeting I was able to remove a piece, install 'Deadwood' blocking, and replace the plywood for fantastic results. If conditions don't allow access by any means then, yes, a newel attachment kit might be the only option. That said I'd go to great lengths to place solid blocking because there's no comparison in the rigidity of the final product. Best, Matt
Fantastic real world solution ! Worked with plenty of large solid newels back in England but never a box newel . A great concept and some good comments too. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks for liking and subscribing Marc. Since you've worked with plenty solid newels you know the challenges faced to get them solid enough to be useful. That experience will help you fully appreciate this method if/when you get a chance to use it. Personally it wouldn't bother me if I never had to install a solid newel again! 😁😎 Best, Matt
I've only seen a couple of your vids but I thoroughly enjoy how you walk thru a process. Subscribing!
Thanks for subscribing Christian... welcome a-board! Best, Matt
Hi Matt, Great method... every time i have done this its a love hate thing. I always get it to work but it is always such a pain. Your system is simple and makes sense, cant wait until I have another opportunity to try this out.
Ed, I know what you mean about the love/hate thing... I was prepared to do all sorts of laborious prepping and 'invasive carpentry' so these posts wouldn't wobble when installed! I was SO relieved when my friend Jared tossed the ready rod method at me... could have had a brain aneurysm when the flash of realization hit me for how much effort and frustration I could avoid. If/when you have an opportunity to try it I think you'll find many installations are twice as difficult and only half as effective as this. The ProRemodeler piece I'm writing will cover how I got solid blocking under the other two newels mentioned in this video plus a variation for conditions such as I-joists where a single rod in the center of the post isn't feasible. Thanks for your comment! Best, Matt
Take some tape fold it in half sticky side out and spin it around any bit with your drill until it is of a sufficient diameter to hold against the nut and drive it like a gear.
Takes a minute or less and saves more than a few. I decided that was better than a pair of sockets hammered into some conduit. Plus it’s one size fits all.
Great Job with the ready rod. We call it all-thread in California.
Superb, even if a little bit was done, 'bass ackwards'. 😍
You inspired me. I did this and it worked beautifully.
One hint on those type of posts with no knee wall or 90 degree rail.....once you think its tight become the teenager that will live there and try to loosen it up by pulling and pushing on it hard....then retighten the nut....and add liquid nails to the hole the rod threads into...those shallow machine threads get break loose....liquid nails under the centering block wouldn't hurt either. Ive done thousands of stair cases at a piece rate where i would have to go back if things loosened up...one or two forty mile drives and 300$ back charge for finish touch up from the painter and you learn to over do things
The voice of experience speaks... thanks for adding your insight Douglas... Best, Matt
Finish carpentry TV made me watch it. Love it
Richard's that kind of guy, isn't he?! 😉🤣😎. Thanks for watching! Best, Matt
Yeah ! It’s such a blessing to have You and Richard on TH-cam. Watching you guys videos make me love even more Finish Carpentry and take it to next level. Thanks a lot ! Happy new Year !
Very innovative! In the case of a solid 4x4 newel post, I used one of those metal plates that you route into the floor base and screw in a 9/16 bolt in the center of the newel that anchors into the metal plate. It’s not quite as rock solid as your set up, but still pretty strong!
Matt - this is phenomenal. Wow. Totally floored by your instruction, creativity, and top flight craftmanship. I'm doing a reno on an 1840 farmhouse and have to do exactly this with an added staircase. Thank you for such a well made, instructive video. One of the best I've seen. I'll dig around a bit to see if you have a newel construction video too. I have some ideas, but would prefer to see what you do for yours.
Thanks, I just went to a customer’s house, they need exactly this!
Cool. Do thorough reconnaissance before committing because there's a lot of things that can be a deal breaker for this sort of installation. It's amazing if you CAN do it though! Best, Matt
Hey Matt thanks I have learned so many nice tricks and ways to get the job done with great results
Thanks for letting me know, Jerry! Glad you learned 'nice tricks' despite my feeble attempts at humor :-)
Love this explanation and your wit throughout. Thanks for being so clear with your instructions! MIT. Haha!! I might use that with my crew sometimes.
Real nice finished product!
Thanks for sayin! This railing system upgrade from all wood balusters was a key selling point when it came time to list the house and the new owners loved it! Best, Matt
Eagerly waiting for the video on how you made that beautiful double-dome newel cap.
Hey Jeff, I actually shot video of the process but have yet to devote the time to producing a video from it... it was a challenging and cool project though. Best, Matt
Thanks Matt. I like your videos. You really explain your methods well. Easy to follow.
You're welcome, Mark. Glad you like the videos... I really try to make likeable videos but it's so much more difficult than doing 'the methods' that I worry too much is lost in the gap between 'doing' and 'showing' so your comment is encouraging... thanks! Best, Matt
Hi Matt, I can see the video with windows 10 and will try again on my other computer tomorrow. That is a very slick method for installation and will keep this in "MY" bag of tricks, Thanks again. Marty
Marty Josephson I think you'll find this method works as slick as it looks if you ever have opportunity to try it. I wonder if your viewing issue is a browser slash operating system conflict of some sort... it would seem to be a typical explanation but let me know if you find out different?
Great video your methods are definitely next level. I disagree with the comment on lock washers, not needed on this no or very low vibration situation.. Thanks ....
Thanks Clyde... Seems the newel would fail first from getting slammed by furniture movers hitting it with a couch, appliance or piano before it would from a loosening nut, especially with how hard I was able to torque it down. In thinking about the comments I'd be inclined to put a dab of LocTite on the nut if I had any concern of it working loose. Thanks for commenting... hope you enjoy other related videos showing how piecesparts of these newels were made.... Best, Matt
Wow phenomenal idea and execution!
This channel is Gold!
Thanks for sayin', Drift Labs! BTW That's some pretty 'fancy' drifting shown on your Drift Challenge video... I didn't even know that was possible... nice! Best, Matt
Very creative! I have one question. What keeps the rod from pulling out of the floor joist?
The very same thing that keeps wood screws from pulling out of wood. If you've never tried this you'll be amazed at how firmly that rod holds!
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you for your time and your response. Do you have any objections to going through the joist? Let’s just say You have easy access to the basement and your floor joist. Would you run the rod through the joist with another washer and nut at the bottom of the rod? Or do you think those threads in the joist will hold up the test of time? I worry about the wood expanding and that rod coming loose over time. I was thinking of through bolting it. Running the threaded rod past the bottom of the floor joist and installing another washer and jam nut from the basement side. Thoughts?
@@dfossilo You've definitely got more options if you have access to the underside of the floor. In my experience, the size of rod used in this video screwed down into the joist as shown will stand the test of time. If the pilot hole was too big it might not hold very tight. If it's too small, it could split the joist and not hold either. It's probably easier to drill a hole down through the joist and add jam nuts at the bottom but, if I were going that route, I'd probably go with 1/2" rod and a 9/16" hole. Also, if you have access below, it's easier to move the rod over so it's not centered over a joist and then add 4 or 5 pieces of solid 1 1/2" thick blocking and use the jam nuts you mentioned. Lots of options to consider and pick the one that makes the most sense for your particular situation.
Loved it as usual I may not use the tip tomorrow but there will come a time
Thanks a bunch Jeff... guess that's the whole idea of our 'bags-o-tricks', right? Best, Matt
Thanks for the video. Now I know exactly how I'm going to remedy my wobbling newel post at the top of my stairs.
Great advice if you own all the tools. Should do a video for the home diy'ers
Kinda like saying "great tips for placing dental implants if you have all the right equipment. Should do a video for DIY Dentists so I can do my own at home" NOT! 😧 Best, Matt
The best to you and family!! I'm sure the new place will be awesome!! Take your time, just wondering what happened, that's all
Well I really appreciate you asking Marty... hope you've had a good and enjoyable summer and look forward to catching up as time allows... Best Matt
Matt, I like this technique a lot
You'll like it even better if you have occasion to use it! 😁😎 Best, Matt
Another nice video. I’m late to the tip sharing game as I only found your channel recently. Something I like to do is make the bottom block about 10-12” long. It seems to add to the rigidity to the post. I’ve mainly use a suretite newel post fastener for these type installs and then slide the box newel over it with some pl. I’ll have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yeah this method is one of many excellent ways of getting the job done as are the methods you mentioned... they are all good to file away for use as required.
@@NextLevelCarpentry and I totally respect that. I’ve heard you comment that before in other videos. Unfortunately it can be hard for people to skin a cat in a different way. The video you made about the garage box steps is a good example of adding your cabinet making skills to a set of stairs. I believe we become better carpenters when we are willing to look at something with an open mind and from a different perspective. Again thanks for the content. I’ll be watching.
Thank you for sharing all your experences. I have picked up so many fine points from your videos. I would like to see a video on sliding miter box and how to cut correctly. Sometimes the saw grabs the wood. Am I not cutting deep enough I try to do a score cut first but it grabs sometimes. Thoughts thanks lou
Hey Lou, sorry I'll have to disappoint you on your request since I don't own or use a sliding miter box... if you can believe that! I'm able to do everything I need to do using the standard non-sliding, non-beveling DeWalt you see in my videos. You should be able to find a video somewhere else since just about everyone but me uses sliding compound miter boxes these days. Frankly the sliding feature scares me a bit but that's mainly because I've no experience with them. Best, Matt
Your saw blade might have what's called a positive hook angle on the teeth, pulling the work upwards and to you. Find a blade with a negative hook angle or described as being used for miter saws, they push the wood down and to the fence.
Now that's slicker'n snot on a glass door-knob. Reminds me of how a truss-rod works in a guitar neck.
excellent video and method . i have been racking my brain on how to secure newell posts that will be secure on an outdoor set of steps to my porch. this is just what i need. i will dig post holes and fill with concrete and imbed the threaded rod into the concrete. i think i will use your newell post design too. i really like the looks of it. thanks for all the info .
Thanks Trainguy... I hadn't considered this method for outdoor use but can't see any reason it shouldn't work. Be sure to use galvanized rod, especially if you imbed it in concrete. Another viewer suggested using an all-thread connector which might make your project a little more manageable because you could imbed a short piece into the concrete and then just attach a long piece of the right length when it's time to install the actual posts. Not sure the level you'd try to use 'my' newel post design but I'd try to keep it to as few pieces as possible and minimize glue ups because an exterior environment is much more abusive. Other than that I think you'd get a great deal of rigidity from this method compared to typical post-mounting brackets, etc. Let me know how it works out if and when? Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry matt, i finally got to the newel posts on my outdoor set of steps............i dug the post holes about a foot and a half deep and let dry over the winter........this spring i drilled a 1 1/4 hole about a foot deep and added a 3/4 10 threaded rod with anchoring cement from home depot........the next day i installed my home made newel posts and locked them down with a 1/4 thick steel plate for a washer and a 3/4 -10 nut. all the posts are independent of the stair stringers cause they start a ground level sitting on the concrete and not attached to the stringers................one of the posts is 60 inches long and it is ROCK SOLID......they actually feel as though they are built right into the concrete, ...............when i saw your video last year and sent you a comment i knew this was the answer to my problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I WAS RIGHT...........THANKS.............THIS METHOD IS GREAT..............
@@yardlimit8695 thanks for the testimonial... and a full year since you first commented?! Nice! Glad to hear it worked so well for you... not that I'm surprised though😀😎 Sure a lot better than embedding wood posts in concrete, right? Hope the rest of the project comes together as well! Best, Matt
Great job Matt, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, woodworking is my hobby and people like you helped me a lot.