What’s Under 40 YEARS of Antifouling Paint? | Sailing Soulianis - Ep. 60
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Of all the boat projects we’ve done so far, this is probably our biggest: a brand spankin’ new bottom job. New… literally allll the way down to the bottom-to gelcoat-that is. After getting rid of close to a dozen layers of antifouling and barrier coats, we uncover the real condition of our hull.
Hope you enjoy!
Lauren & Kirk
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For anyone curious why we didn't sandblast the hull, our boatyard wouldn't allow it. Lucky us, we got the FULL bottom job experience.
Hop over here if you'd like to support our video production! www.patreon.com/sailingsoulianis
Thanks so much for watching!
Social distancing e-hugs to all,
Lauren & Kirk
I was going to ask that, lol.
Kirk... 18:10.... You missed out on an awesome chance of being the Knight in Shining Armor and carried the damsel in distress over the water allowing the feet of the fair maiden to remain dry. 😂
You should have gotten yourself a better and lighter sander with propper "paper". I know they're expensive but in my experience nothing in the electric orbital sander category beats the Mirka system. I use both Mirka's and Festool's at work and truly, the Finnish brand is definitively lighter in weight, more aggressive for stock removal, just (if not better) build quality, and easier to handle/fine tune than the German. For your use I would have tried a Mirka CEROS 650CV 150mm with a hard backing pad for the flat parts/soft for the contours, and Abranet Ace or SIC NS type abrasives starting at 40 grits. But oh'well, the job is done now and you're still living in the same boat ....
That sucks,walnut shells would have done a nice job of that .
This is great! Every decent TH-cam sailing channel needs some “o glorious sanding” to keep things real. Mads would be proud.
This episode should be called "Sanding Soulianis" ;)
I got exhausted just watching you two scrape and sand. Yikes, you two have energy! Love your videos. Keep em' coming.
Oh Glorious Sanding... ummm, sorry, I thought this was the 'Sail Life' youtube channel... Nevermind!
Pure love, ❤️ congratulations and thanks for inviting us on your journey... in these difficult times your are a blessing in our days 🙏🏻 thanks...
What I like: Lauren said “stripper”. What I’m not so sure about: Kirk let’s us know “our bottoms pretty good”. Thanks for another great video!
Given a modern penny is only copper plated making up around 2.5% of its weight 30 lbs of copper would make around 1.8 million pennies.
The amount of Common Knowledge you guys have is Amazing.... from wiring to rigging from fiberglass work to plumbing.. and, lets talk about filming and editing videos?? Nothing stops you guys !! I forgot about Van customization.... Love you guys !!!
This honestly is the main reason I haven't purchased a sailboat. I literally do not have that amount of time in my life. I'm am so impressed with you guys. Well done! Stay safe IRL!
There is a lot of truth in saying "the best way to sail is on other people's boats."
It is interesting how seeing the two of you in Tyvek suits and respirators is much less scary than watching people on the news wearing the same equipment as we deal with Covid 19. Nice teamwork on the hull prep.
Copper Coat is a really great idea. It's every two weeks for bottom cleaning in Florida, every 3 weeks with ablative. I'm glad that they still make it. Having someone sand blast it, is a lot easier. :)
I agree blasting is way to go but they mentioned the yard doesn't allow blasting that's why they went the wax on off route.
I am doing this now on my Albin Vegas just finished one side . This is really hard work 😝 hop is the last time.
That shipyard is a toxic nightmare sitting right next to the ocean. A shipyard should have cement or asphalt work area to where sanded fouling paint and other fiberglass debris can be swept up and disposed of. Every time it rains there , copper , paint chips , fiberglass fibers , and chemicals are washed into the nearby ocean and are toxic to wildlife. Over the years the seafloor has accumulated this muck to where the seafloor is a wasteland. Maybe see if Public Works or city maintenance can take samples of drain areas to see if they are polluting the ocean. Dig under the gravel and sample..it might be scary .
one penny is 3.11 grams so 25 pounds is 11,339.81 grams so there would be 3,646 Penneys than only 99.7%was copper so there would be 11,304.9 so there are around 3,635 Penneys
*fixed
99.7% copper 😜
I calculated 200,806.45. See calculations below; I think I'm correct but not 100% sure.
According to the wiki on the penny [ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny_(United_States_coin)#Composition ], the modern cent's inner core alloy is 99.2% zinc(Zn) & 0.8% copper(Cu) while its outer plating is pure copper. This calculates to an overall composition of 97.5% Zn and 2.5% Cu.
The current copper-plated cent is 2.25 grams (or 0.004960 lbs.) and therefore contains 0.05625 grams (or 0.0001240 lbs.) Cu.
If the 25 lbs. bag of CopperCoat is 99.7% Cu, then 1 bag contains 24.9 lbs. of Cu. 24.9 divided by 0.0001240 = 200,806.45 pennies of Cu.
Great job you two. Thank you for your hard work and great videos. You two bring happiness to some very tough times these days. However, I do like the mosaic stripy look!
Awesome episode and epic hull project. Who says Kirk hates work 🤔 As Mads from Sail Life would say...sanding, glorious sanding 😁
Wait your videos are a few months behind yet you guys have your Corona outfits ready?!? Inside information from the WHO? 🤣
Ok guys i finished watching 57 videos lol. I have 2 more to go to watch all of them but you posted this one and well i couldn't resist. Starting from the beginning i feel as if i have been on the journey with you. Cant wait for the next one. Stay safe and healthy.
copper coat is for WOODIN BOATS😉
string fiberglass is better than bondo , and a trick is wax , or parchment paper put over filler use a plastic scraper to smooth out , once dry paper pulls off , with a perfect smooth finish , minimizes sanding needs , and eliminates , pulls and voids
i would not put copper coat over f glass copper is for wood boats not fglass
..the boat should hit higher in the water ,with all that paint gone ..lol.. great vid..good job...keep safe...
Brave people, that's quite a chunk of work!
I can not get enough of you guys. I'm sitting here glued to the screen and the closing music starts playing. It's been 21:19 out of my life and I was just engrossed in this weeks challenge. You job to hard apparently. Thanks for sharing with us. Be safe and I can't wait to see what's next.
After the scraping, and before the sanding, it looked as though Van Gooh had done your bottom job.
Old pennies, approx 148 per pound. Send my prize please! Good luck guys. Keep the blue side down.
i'll bite: whats your concept of the difference between a "void" and "blister" two of what you showed us sure resembled what appeared to be the aftermath of a blister. the third didn't. help us to understand please.
okay, in the end of your video you showed more and clarified that you didn't know if those voids might be blisters (good save lol). but i am still curious what you'd consider a void versus a blister. I'll go one further, why the word "void" i have't seen or heard of it being worded like that before. educate us please, help us to understand your thoughts/logic.
I'd argue that a blister is a void, but a void is not a blister. In my opinion, a blister is caused from seawater finding its way in behind the glass, acidifying then "rotting". A void is dry. None of our voids had any liquid in them, none of them smelled sweet or rotten, they were just small dry patches of glass fiber that hadn't been wetted out by resin. They were clearly manufacturing defects, but they had not yet blistered. I'd assume this is either due to the gelcoat being in excellent condition and not letting any water find it's way in to the voids, or because the boat was a freshwater boat until two years ago and has been hauled out every single year since launching thus avoiding months or years on end sitting in the water which would allow time for the moisture to work its way in behind the gelcoat.
@@SailingSoulianis that's a reasonable perspective. I'd say your best off finding the blisters before they get saturated.
but being saturated i wouldn't think makes them anymore, or less of a blister.
either way. it looks like ya'll did good catching the problems before they became detrimental.
good job. keep the good video's coming.
What a huge project this was for you kids, but it had to be done! So much scraping and sanding would have driven most people absolutely bonkers! I admire your sticktoitiveness! So many thru-hulls but thank goodness you fixed that old one. The next posting will be showing us the copper coat process and I am looking forward to seeing just how that is done. Way back in the day, I remember my Dad using what he called "Red Lead" on the bottom of his old wooden hulls. I guess that turned out to be a big NO NO when it came to the damage it did to the environment. He eventually graduated up to fibreglas hulls and that made maintenance much easier over the long run. He would have loved watching you kids and your beautiful boat. The last boat he owned was an Islander 30 MKII.
How do you get the spots where the stand is?
Hi we use cumclean a. Turps like product broom on and it faLLS off right back to the white surface coat , some areas will need a scrape that’s on soft anti fouling ,don’t use hard fouling that’s for race boats so you can scrub between races and have anti fouling left to protect , copper coat well it has its issues mainly in the prep department. And the product in not proven yet every body I talk to complains about it but we found soft paint lasts
You were worried about a smooth bottom? I bet Kirk has a smooth bottom!! :-O
Do get the boat lifted and set down again to be able to get the places where it is supported and stand on? Or is that made later?
Really nice vid, Hugs from Denmark
Fortunately no lifting is necessary, the yard just moves the stands around for us. It’s called re-blocking.
@@SailingSoulianis ohh thats nice they can do that. So you do the first part, then reblock and the other places. Gonna be nice, or well it most likely already is.😉😊
My least favourite job - scraping bottom paint. Coppercoat is a great choice...now you won't need to do that job again for ~10 years! 😊👍
I really enjoyed watching this episode and thank you for posting more information about it on your website. I had never heard of this and it is very interesting.
One word: RESPECT!👍🏼
As Mads from Sail Life would say.......”Oh glorious sanding”.
As we know he has done this job already!
Quarantine got me bored. So:
About 25lbs of copper = 11,339.809grams
Modern penny = 2.5 grams in weight
Composed of 97.5% zinc/2.5% copper = 0.0625 grams copper & 2.4375 grams zinc
= 181,437 pennies
You'd also need 975lbs of zinc, but that's beside the point.
Gosh same thing happened to us. No rain forever. And then when we have it all ready to apply the antifouling...boom...the heavens let loose is we had to wait to get started with the Coppercoat. Look forward to the next episode! You will LOVE Coppercoat! Rebecca on SV Brick House
Guys, I never saw a bottom so clean on a 20 y/o boat! Well done! would you mind sharing what grid did you use after the craping?
The very end scene is Walter and Jesse going hard.
New, unused or uncirculated copper cents weigh about 3.11 grams each or about 145 copper pennies per pound. So 25 pounds = 3,625 pennies. 30lb = 4,350. At least that’s my 2 cents.
Boats are real work, and expensive to maintain.
Hi Kirk & Lauren -
I am refitting a Pearson 36-2 which was equipped with centerboard - raised by a complicated steel cable, sheaves and tubes, to a winch on the coachroof. While a CB can provide some performance advantage, most cruisers I have spoken with find their CB to be a hassle that provides only modest benefit. Also, a CB can be dangerous if the cable snaps and the CB drops while running downwind in heavy weather. They can also jam in the down position due to corrosion, breakage and/or barnacles.
So I scrapped my entire CB & mechanism - I was shocked to find that the sheave box covering the hole in the bilge was ready to break apart and sink the boat. I sealed the bottom of the CB trunk with SS bolts and a floor of epoxy/chopped glass, then poured in cement grout to fill the cavity. Now I have a little more ballast and no potential points of failure in that area.
I proceeded with sandblasting the hull, fairing & sanding, 6 coats of white/gray barrier (Sea Hawk Tuff) and 3 coats of relatively hard self-polishing copolymer antifouling (Sea Hawk Biocop 38% Cu + 4% Zn). If doing over I think I would instead use a barrier with a longer overcoat window (Pettit Protect) and a copolymer with higher Cu (Pettit Ultima-60 SR 60% Cu + 2% Irgarol).
I'll wager a guess...
Current shield penny is 3.11 grams and has 2.5% copper content
If your bag weighs 25lbs then a good ballpark figure would be
145,849 pennies (rounded down for production loss).
Wow. What a job! I commend you as I think your doing a great job and removing the unused through hull was a very wise idea. Can't wait to see the finished job.
STOP!!!! You are scratching the gelcoat you bone head. Employ a professional
Nice video
3,646, pre-1982(which are 97.5% copper), pennies per 25 lbs of copper. Pennies after 1982 are less than 2.75% copper.
Question A 4000 PSI pressure washer with Sand Blaster attachment ? Or Soda Blast ? ONE DAY Less gouges on the Gel coat. That was LABOR INTENSIVE. What am I missing OH Just read about the YARD " even with containment plastic Area under the boat and Wet Vacs ? Bummer
MAYBE A GOOD TIME TO CHANGE ALL YOUR THRU HULLS⁉️ YOU DONT WANT ONE TO FAIL DURING A PASSAGE. HAVE AT LEAST A FEW SPARES AND PLUGS TO FIX A BROKEN TGRU HULL. STAY SAFE, GREAT JOB‼️👍👍⛵️⛵️. Vinny 🇺🇸
30,000000 pennies in 10 pounds of your copper powder...Lol...looks great ,can't wait to see ya in the water again, take care,be safe and thanks for the videos....
Yeah...you are taking the Coppercoat antifouling plunge! We removed all of our antifouling paint too (there is no easy way as you found out!) and applied Coppercoat on to Brick House too! She was launched on December 10, so about 4 months ago. We used to clean the bottom and it would take 2 hours once a month, pretty much from the very beginning of launching her. No bottom paint ever worked for us! So after we did a serious blister repair job, we stripped the bottom and applied Coppercoat too. Now our cleanings once a month take 15 or 20 minutes with the wipe of the softest sponge. Slime just clouds off. The boat who has had our exact marinas and sailing time, launched 2 weeks after us, is COVERED in barnacles, and all kinds of growth! They used the top antifouling paint the marina offered. So needless to say we are quite happy with Coppercoat. We had our suspicions because we didn’t/couldn’t follow the directions perfectly...but it appears that the Coppercoat is a HUGE success! I am glad that process (and filming of it) is over now and we can get on with sailing with Covid19 settles down! Hope your Coppercoat is a success too! -Rebecca on SV Brick House
Good to hear it’s working well for you. We’ve been quite happy with ours thus far. :D
Sailing Soulianis ah ok...post dated video. How long have you had it? And what is your wiping schedule? -Rebecca
The attachment for the Dewalt sander is rubbish, pretty much gotta cut off the hard piece of your hose to screw in the sander attachment, been looking for a fresh hose thats 10-15 feet, instead of dragging around the shop vac.
I hope you had a good look at Sailing Britican and the major issues they have had with Coppercoat. I was also advised against Coppercoat for my boat in Port Phillip Bay Melbourne Australia as it at the mouth of a river and quite eustarine and really doesnt work well here. The yard manager at my club said all coppercoat was useful was for was an undercoat for conventional anti-fouling paint. Other people are very happy with the stuff... Anyway Good Luck
Hi Kirk and Lauren, is this in the Port Charlotte boatyard? And good call on glassing in the old transducer, Lady K almost sunk when their old transducer broke off, I don’t know if you follow them but that was a scary experience good video to look up if you haven’t seen it!
Looks good! Everyone has to experience that. It's definitely a pain in the ass.
Coppercoat application is tricky. Use this video, which features Coppercoat people in the flesh, for instructions. Unless you already applied it, in which case...
Even bigger spoiler alert. Pennies aren't actually made out of copper. They're just covered in a thin layer.
I think I would have sprung for the 1500 for blasting
Barnacles on the prop can easily go away if you put a strong white vinegar onto kitchen paper towels and wrap them around. Wait 30 min or so, the resulting chemical reaction will allow you to easily remove the little things. Strong scotch Brite should do the rest.
Greetings from the Baltic Sea. ⛵️cheers
Did you guys check the moisture in the stripped hull and rudder, with a moisture meter , before re- coatings ?
Is the copper harmful to the environment? I think that California has laws that the copper level must be below a certain amount. I could be very wrong, but wanted to ask.
As they say”a job worth doing,is worth doing well.I’m certain you’ll be pleased you went to the lengths you have to make it right.And if I heard you correctly,you found a stripper that’s not as toxic as most,that was the one that was working wasn’t it?Best wishes🙂
As far as we can tell it appears to be less environmentally toxic. It's made from a soy base so we felt pretty good about it. The paint itself is probably worse.
copper pennies are 148 to the lbs, copper plated zinc 181 to the lbs. and steel pennies 168 to the lbs.so 20lbs of copper=2900 pennies or $29
One question, what about the exposed surface inside the keel where the center-board hides itself? It looked like this surface can never be taken care of properly. Did you see anything going on inside there? 😯
Copper coat, there is a divided opinion about this product apparently it's very important to follow the instructions to the word & take plenty of video & photos of the process. Worth contacting copper coat to advise while doing the work. It's going to be interesting to follow the process.
Please listen to this advice I was watching a video on the TH-cam it was about a sailing boat in a mayday situation because of a leakage in the boat it was about to sink ,they couldn’t stop the leakage by anyhow this happened at the sea ,the only solution what had saved them is something called under water epoxy it was given to them by a fishing boat was nearby and he rushed to help them ,because of that epoxy they were saved this event happened at the sea in the middle of no where so please buy this epoxy in case of any emergency 🚨 plus a life raft as a precaution this is an advice only the choice is yours ,I wish you a safe and wonderful sailing.
Watch the Beau and Brandy channel and their video. I’m 99% sure that’s the video referenced. They were saved and even I want to know what that green puffy was.
Fernando Olivero it was epoxy called stay afloat in emergency and no emergency instant leakage plug& sealant it’s cheap but highly recommended by the coast guard and you can find it and know more about it on google or TH-cam
Did you consider a 2 part barrier coat after scraping and sanding the gelcoat?
You guys work unbelievably hard yet make it look so much fun. That's the magic of this show and what makes you both great to watch. Looking forward to seeing you back in the water again and off on more adventures. Seeing the world through your eyes is great as you paint a pretty picture.
Thank you Paul!
I did this on a 10 foot jon boat with bottom paint, the boat was from the 60s and god knows how long the bottom paint was put on it, but I can't imagine having to do on this scale.
That is a daunting task for you two young people to take on but you showed the world you have the ability to power through with the scraping and sanding. Then on to the joy of applying the copper coat which was easier on your bodies. You will be so happy when you are finished with the bottom refurbishing.
Thanks Bill!
Well, It's more fun to watch you two do a full BotJob than to do one myself.
I sure wish I could of helped you , that way I could learn With you .
have you see the sail live channel he did the same thing to his during the refit he is presently doing
sorry sail life
Oh! Hard work! I am doing the same in my boat now. I will be ready soon for upload more videos to my youtube channel! Come to Galicia’s coast if you have the chance, it is beatiful!
Finally got caught up with all your fantastic videos today! I’ve been wanting to ask if you two would ever consider doing a q&a video segment or an instagram story q&a sometime in the near future, we’d love to know more about you guys and your dreams for the future!
Hi Dylan, we have done a number of Q&A videos with Patrons, which keeps the questions to a manageable flow ensuring we're able to answer everyone individually. We are also considering doing something similar in the future for everyone, so feel free to throw out a few questions you'd like to ask and we'll add them to the list we're compiling.
@20:20; Is that a plastic thru-hull fitting you’re pointing to? (Adjacent to the old transducer mounting point?) If it is, I would advocate replacing it (And any other plastic thru-hulls, if they are more than 5 years old. Not sure how to tell the age of the thru-hulls, but any sign of brittleness and they MUST be replaced. I’m sure you can work out the ramifications of not replacing them and having one fail!) The beauty of copper/bronze thru-hulls is that oxidation/corrosion/deterioration is readily apparent visually. (Green for oxidation...)
Scraping off forty years of anti-foul is mind-numbingly tedious work (Here in Australia, the most cost effective way is to Soda-blast it, reasonably expensive, but would only take the contractor a matter of a few hours and the hull is almost perfectly fair and finished - excluding weird surprises (e.g. epoxy over primer over ablative.
Also, unfortunately too late now, but next time you re- oat with anti-foul, please consider silicone. Amazing results and endurance (I’m told far superior to copper-coat or any other cuprous oxide...)
For silicone to work your boat needs to average a certain speed through the water; ours isn't fast enough.
Is there a reason why you didn't use a grinder on the top coat? Either way, it's no fun.
Looked like a Van Gogh painting in the making--for a while!
I was all set to use Copper Coat USA on my last sailboat. I stripped the hull and to gel-coat and applied two layers of Epoxy Barrier coat as instructed. Before I could get to the Copper Coat, I sold the boat. The new owner continued where I left off and was very disappointed with the results after the first year. There have also been quite a few other people who have had great difficulty with that product. If not applied exactly right it's a looser. I heard of one sailor I think Sailing Britalia or Britannia who did the job tthemselves and then had a yard re-do the job and still it didn't work. So finally Copper Coat USA came down and did it for them with some success. SO FAR??? Also, I think Sailing UMA used it (made their own version of it) and ended up stripping it off and going to regular bottom paint. Between the expense and the labor I think I will stick to regular bottom paint until the product is perfected! Good Luck!!! I hope all your work is not for naught!!
We've got a couple of blog posts we're working on right now that covers a lot of the misconceptions you're referring to, as well as our experience thus far.
You shoot one video in the snow and Aspen dental is advertising on your channel. 👍
Why not edit that terrible screeching sound out of the video so we didn’t have to endure it?
I need to do that to my boat next year. Every time I think about how much work it is I wonder why I didn't buy a kayak instead. Can't wait to see the Copper Coat go on!!
Does your boatyard fully understand/allow soda blasting? Have they seen soda blasting with proper tenting and clean-up?
Probably not. But we had a company lined up. They called the boatyard directly on our behalf to talk with them.
umm, Don't need to be picky, BUT Gelcoat is sprayed into the bare mould and the fibreglass is layed up over it.
But no matter how you do it removing antifoul by hand is nasty nasty work.
Good clarification.
You might check out a couple of videos on the sailing channel "SailingBritican". They had issues with copper coat, and had the factory guys re-do the bottom a second time. Lots of good info.
We saw their video and read about their entire saga before starting. We were pretty confident their issues were a result of the application process and not the product itself.
That hose clamp from the sander to the little shop vac is a great work around idea ! I'll have to try to remember it next time I've got heavy sanding to do .tks
It took me quite a while at Home Depot rummaging around through various electrical and plumbing aisles to finally find a coupling that worked.
This is why you pay $1500 for a sand blast, save two weeks and save your gel coat. Also makes your bottom way smother for cooper coat.
The boatyard didn't allow sandblasting.
Just curious, did you fill the hole with epoxy between the outer and inner layers of glass? I'm guessing you did but since you didn't mention or show it, I just gotta know. haha
Yea once I got the bottom layer on I did put a little thickened epoxy in there. But it wasn’t very thick at that point. So I tried to get the glass from both sides as close together as I could. Starting with small circles of glass and layering on larger pieces.
Now, just out of curiosity, did you get a quote or three for the cost to sand-blast the bottom down to gel coat? I don't know about you but paying several $K to avoid two weeks of grungy labor might be worth it unless the budget says otherwise. Thankless job but the end result will be spectacular. [EDIT] OK I just read the pinned comment. Whew...you two are brave.
You guys are doing a really good job, I would want to buy your boat after you, tons of labor invested in that thing! That looks like a HYUGE pain in the ass! Good thing you wore those respirators, that stuff is probably toxic as heck. On the bright side, you can use this as a sales video when you go to sell that thing, show how well you took care of it and how well its been fixed.
The ablative paint certainly is. Fortunately Coppercoat isn't 👍
I gotta say, sanded my bottom every year.fir 29 years... never used the suits, the glasses or the heavy duty masks. I blew out blue from my nose for a week.or so.. but I'll bet a lot more comfortable.. all that hazard wear looks miserable. An awful job
You should of tried Coppercoat, at least you would have only needed to do it 3 times!
A modern penny (with the shield on the reverse) is 2.5% copper and weighs 3.11 grams. So 0.077 grams of copper per penny, and 11 pennies per gram, 5,839 pennies per pound, 116,785 pennies for 20 pounds.
Great video - thanks. Very surprised your boatyard didn't require you to tent the boat with all the bottom work you did - especially the sanding. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Cheers!
Van Gogh must have been a hull scraper.
I started having flashbacks to doing the bottom on my 27'r ....
Stay safe wherever you are, at least you have bitchin respirators!
Know you guys are finished with your bottom job. You did not mention applying a barrier coat. Does the copper coat serve that purpose?
Coppercoat does act as a barrier coat as it is a two-part epoxy. However we did use a barrier coat as well. All details to follow in the next episode.
Hi there! I'm a new subscriber and have watched most of your videos.....I really enjoy your channel, and am glad that I subscribed!!!! I have noticed that you have great 'pride in ownership' as well as 'attention to detail' I'm the same way and it's refreshing to see those qualities in action in your videos, Wether on your boat or van. I'm looking forward to your next video! Cheers!
Hang in there. It will be worth it.
My question would be why you didn't have the bottom either soda or glass/water blasted was it strictly finance or boat yard rules, how many actual hours did you invest and approx. dollars did the bottom cost( stripper,sand paper etc.) just for the prep to get it ready for the actual paint work. Knowing what you know now would you do things the same? Bottom job in my future.