I finally did it! I know this is a long video, sorry. I did add chapter marks so you can skip around if you'd rather. I also forgot to show photos of polishing the new gate, but it was simply 1000 to 3000 grit sandpaper. I will also update this when I get that roll of 250D processed. Thanks!!
I love watching longer TH-cam videos especially seeing the inner workings like this. If I was more confident I would try processing my own but not at that stage yet. Great video.
Thanks so much!! Part of the fun in this whole process is the unknown. I mean, I could get perfect results every time if I just sent everything to a lab but where's the excitement in that :) You can do it, just jump right in, make mistakes, you'll be glad you did!!
Hi filmboy24! Used this video to remove the loop formers. Hardest part for me was re aligning the sprocket wheel. Thank God I marked it and had some test film lying around. Cuz for 15minuites of re adjusting and eating film I finally got it! Used foam instead of tape for the footage counter and shone a 100 lumen flashlight in complete darkness and all I'd well! Thanks so much for the video it was super helpful!!!
@Filmboy24 so recently I've noticed my shutter blade mirrors are quite dirty and they appear to have somghing smeared across the glass, any tips as to how to clean them? It looks kinda fogged and light flares in the viewfinder making it hard to compose, the image captured is fine and I can tell the mirrors are dirty and smeared.
woohoo! I think I did it correctly - all seems to be working - Thanks so much for this guide One thing I am unsure about is the winder.. When I turn it clockwise (toward lens) it turns somewhat freely, I thought I remembered it not moving at all pre-loopformer removal but I could just be imagining things. Turning counterclockwise winds the motor and all seems to be working in that sense however. I see in your vid when you wind it that yours appears to do the same when turning clockwise so perhaps all is fine.
AWESOME!! Glad to hear it!! Yes, the crank handle should turn freely clockwise. I think that's so you don't have to take your hand off the handle to keep winding.
Nice. I watched the whoooole thing and am considering going Super 16 for my K3, but haven’t pulled the trigger on buying the gate and centering ring yet. I also like to do things myself, so filing the opening of my gate and possibly foregoing the re-centering ring (unless I can find just the ring) are next on my list. I did remove my loop formers (sorry, watched a different video before doing that), which took me all of 20 minutes. I’ll go back in and finish light sealing the heck out of it soon. Looking forward to your new content sir!
Thanks, Mike!! I have 2 K3 cameras and I kept one pretty original (minus the loop formers) and one has been super 16 modded. I have to tell you, I rarely ever touch my standard 16 one. It does take some getting used to the framing though, something I've messed up on several occasions. I'm like you, I love to DIY stuff and filing the gate does seem like it's be pretty easy to do. If you do it, make sure you polish it until you think its perfect, then polish it again :)
Excellent video. I need to drag myself into the world of 16mm. I can't wait to see the color film to come. The double-x you posted here is fabulous. Oh well, you can't blame the vertical scratch on the splitter this time, LOL. Thanks, and you are right shooting amateur film and home movies is all about fun. I certainly enjoy it as a hobby. Keep the great content coming Mike.
Thanks, Cecil! You know, there aren't many that truly "get it". It's much less about perfection and way more about the enjoyment and complete control of the hands on process. I think you and I were cut from the same mold. I followed NASCAR for many years and early on, my favorite driver (even had the opportunity to sit down with him for a few minutes) was Alan Kulwicki. He was a true master at his craft and did everything on his own with very little money or support. He even turned down large teams like Jr. Johnson and continued to do everything himself. Well, in his tragically shortened career, he won the championship in 1992. Did everything himself :)
Thanks so much!! There probably is a way but it’s way out of my pay grade 😄. In all honesty, it would be very difficult and would likely have to be done by a professional.
Super great video! Question for you -- in the process of removing the parts i somehow messed up the crank/motor to where it is not winding/catching correctly. any idea how to fix?
Thank you, Joshua! One of the trickiest parts of this modification, for me, was re-assembling the inner plate. I think that's probably where your problem lies. The little flat gear on the bottom side of the plate likes to pop off during installation. You have to make sure it stays seated properly while pushing the plate back in and you have to make sure the plate seats completely. Sometimes it seemed like the plate was flat but it wasn't. I tried cranking a little while seating it to try and "help" it in.
Congrats!!! Just skipped through the video and checked the crucial steps. Looks perfect to me! Now I look forward to your very first Super 16 footage! If you don't mind, I will pin a link to this video on my channel (shameless self promotion, oops 😁😆). Congrats again!!!!
@@Filmboy24 just watched your S16 test footage. The vertical scratch is in fact on the extended side (right hand side on the resulting Image). Since it's completely straight, as opposed to wavy, and it looks like an emulsion scratch, it can only be the gate. It might be a remaining burr still. Most extended gates cause nasty scratches. You can see that on most K-3 S 16 footage. You might want to check again and perhaps use coarser sandpaper first. I still need to remove my gate and polish again, since my polishing wasn't enough to eliminate all micro burrs on the extended side. No idea what caused the light leak. Anyway: looking good!
@@Filmboy24 great. I know it's a lot of hassle, but the K-3, once in perfect working order, delivers killer images on par with professionally made movies. PS, I very highly recommend sealing the footage counter box also where it meets the baffle plate. That's where the light leaks cone from. I placed a small LED flashlight inside my K-3 and I spotted exactly where the light is leaking. The footage counter is the culprit. Once sealed all around and the window outside sealed as you did, you are all set. Thanks for accepting my humble suggestions. I'm into film and film cameras since I was a child and still learning every day. Best of luck with your K-3. I'm sure you will come up with killer results!!!
Do you think it’s necessary do also regrease the camera? I’m afraid of breaking something as grease is always a bit tricky and could mess things up pretty quickly.
Hi Andis, I have never filed one down myself but I guess you probably could. I don't know the exact measurements, as mine is installed. If you do attempt to file it yourself, I would suggest really polishing after you're done.
You don't actually recenter the ring itself, the new recentered ring is milled offset. In other words, when you replace the factory ring with the offset one, the M42 threads are offset to compensate for the wider gate.
so i just bought a K3, what is the benefit of removing the loop formers? and also couldnt i just sand down the gate from 16 to super 16 myself? seems quite expensive what they run online for.. nice video btw! thahks for the detailed instructions!
Thank you for watching! I personally don't like the loop formers in the K-3 because they're "clunky" and have a tendency to scratch film. You could certainly file your gate down (I've never personally done it) but be very careful to remove all the burrs or you'll certainly scratch your film. You will also need to re-center your lens, so that the image is centered on your new frame size.
This is great! Sadly my K-3 S16 still produces a scratch and a small dark spot can be seen on the gate as if something chipped. Can I polish on-camera? Or can I remove the gate without removing anything else? How to polish?!
Thank you!! Mine did the same thing (scratch) after I completed the upgrade. This was after I polished the new gate before installing. The gate can’t be removed without pulling the big cover plate, so I used really fine (like 2000 grit) sand paper and gent and carefully went over the gate while in the camera. I honestly don’t recommend doing much polishing while the gate is attached but a tiny bit didn’t hurt anything on mine, and I fixed the scratch. Best of luck!!
@@Filmboy24 Thank you! So you can use that 2000 dry on the gate without oil? I read somewhere (Christian?) using sewing machine oil for polishing with sand papaer?!
@@michaelpetersenfilm Christian definitely knows his stuff, and under ideal conditions, you should probably use a drop of oil but for a microscopic burr, it won't hurt anything without. If you plan on doing anything other than a little polishing with 2000+ paper, I'd remove it.
That's a good question. I didn't really pay attention when I was using them, however I know the screws inside the film compartment used just a standard size, the gate used a bit smaller and the center sprocket roller was really tiny (like a jewelers screwdriver). You could get away with 2 sizes, a small and very small.
I went thru this process today and removing the loop formers/instaling the gate went really well, your video was super helpful! I am however having a lot of trouble reassembling the camera. When i first put the camera back together after the upgrade the shutter only fired for about 3 seconds, wasnt able to get it to work at all after that, winding wasnt workin, the handle just bounces back and has far too much tension (i'd be scared to push it more than an inch) because of this, there is leftover tension in the spring I am unable to let out with the shutter, so every time I take the plate off the spring tension releases (which i really hope isnt doing much damage) after a while ( I think) I concluded it was because the washer/gear that fits into the claws wasnt seated properly. Any advice on getting that thing in the right orientation? ive tried more times than i'd care to admit, and its really hard to know if its right once the plate is in. sorry for the essay! it cost me a couple paychecks and im terrified i have broken the camera, im praying the washer is the issue.
Hi Andy, thanks for your kind words! That little sprocketed washer was probably the most confusing part of the whole process for me. You definitely have to make sure that each of the 3 "claws" engage the washer and that each of the 3 springs are seated in the slots behind the "claws". When I did mine (and a friend's), I tried to make sure that the washed was centered, even though it kind of looked like it wasn't engaging the claws/sprockets perfectly. In other word, for some reason the washer has 20 teeth and 3 have to be engaged with the little "claws", even though 20 isn't evenly divided by 3. Not sure why this was done but there will be 5 empty "teeth" then a claw, 5 more then a claw, then 6 empty and the last claw. Try and note the position of the square hole and get it as close as you can to the same orientation as the square post that it will be seated on. Place the whole thing down, slowly and carefully and once it's flat, turn the camera crank a little, while pressing the plate down to fully seat it. It took me a couple tries (replacing the gear) to finally get it down but you'll know when it's done because you can crank your camera and fire it. Hope this helps, best of luck!!
@@Filmboy24 thank you sooo much for the detailed reply! i managed to get the camera working last night after a lot of fiddling, seems to work great now with the new gate and loop formers removed! I will keep this information in mind/noted though as im going to (carefully) reopen the camera to replace the foam!
@@Asset1968 I think you're right, I really believe it has something to do with my processing. I've had a few of those Morse tanks over the years, just never used one. Is that what you use? I may have to pick another one up.
Great video! I just ordered a ultra 16 K-3 but noticed the one I ordered still has the loop formers. Is this a MUST to remove them? Or just a good idea?
Thanks Caleb! It's not an absolute MUST to remove the loop formers, in fact, many people do not. I left mine in for a few rolls and really didn't like them at all. They're very cheap plastic and on a string system, which just doesn't seem to work too well (feels like it struggles sometimes). I've also heard people say that their film was scratched by them, though it never happened to me. I'd say shoot a couple rolls and see how it looks and feels for you. If they don't bother you, I'd just let them be.
I'm not exactly sure what may have happened, however the trickiest part for me was keeping that little gear in place on the underside of the cover plate while re-assembling. I know if that gear is not on properly or falls off, your camera will not run.
I’m curious how your zoom works now. The flange depth difference you measured of about 5 thousandths of an inch (about 0.13 mm) is roughly ten times the usual tolerance for a movie camera flange depth. So if you find that your zoom gets pretty soft at the wide end after focussing at the long end, you might want to shim the mount out. Nice job otherwise!
Hey Dom, good catch! Incidentally, on the same day that I did this video, I did exactly what you said and made a shim. It did affect things a little too much initially, put a shim in and it's back where it belongs. Thank you!!
Someone may have already asked this, but what if you didn't mark the sprocket and can't find the right spot you removed it from? Thanks everyone! Great video!
Thanks, Kevin!! That's a great question. I didn't really mark mine, so I either got lucky when tightening it back up or it doesn't really matter. I think as long as you re-orient the set screws back in the position they were prior to loosening them, you should be fine. They're no hard to re-adjust, so I'd probably run some leader or test film and adjust from there if necessary.
@@javansmith3080 You have to orient the gear so that you can access both screws. You just has to run the motor with slow bursts to get the gear turned the right way.
@@javansmith3080 What screws are you talking about? I was under the impression you meant the little set screws in the main drive sprocketed roller. If you pulled the cover plate partially out before getting the set screws loosened, your motor will not engage the gears.You may have to re-seat it in order to get the sprocket roller oriented in the right position to get to the other screw.
:( need to not just sand down the modified gate opening, but the key is to polish it. Even a fine sandpaper is just not enough, since the film is being pushed and secured against the gate by way of the spring, it needs a good polish. Machine polish is the best, making it literally shiny and the film just glides across the gate.
Hello, I bought this Krasnogorsk-3 camera in Singapore in 1992 from a Russian Aeroflot pilot who used to do this kind of traffic at a time when the ruble was volatile... It was brand new, still wrapped in its tissue paper. I didn't make any film with it, my Bolex H16 being sufficient for hand-held shots in addition to the 16mm Ariflex. As it wasn't really part of my filmmaking history, and I needed to lighten my baggage, I tried to sell it. If anyone's interested...
Im three years late and you probably sold the camera by now but the light leaks i see in the footage is coming from the front of the camera, the lens ring you replaced is the problem, you need to remove it and put black silicone on the bottom of the ring then screw it back down and let it dry .. you might want to put thread tape on the lens as well to make it super snug! The footage looks extremely horrible! I shot with a super 8 beaulieu 4008 with a maxed gate i filed down and the footage was HD clean! I used reversal film, i projected it on a clean white wall and record with a $4000 hd Sony camera i had, looks 500 times better then your footage! For super 16 your footage has serious issues!
I finally did it! I know this is a long video, sorry. I did add chapter marks so you can skip around if you'd rather. I also forgot to show photos of polishing the new gate, but it was simply 1000 to 3000 grit sandpaper. I will also update this when I get that roll of 250D processed. Thanks!!
Hi Mike, Even though I am not planning to do this, I stayed with it all the way to the end as I enjoyed it a lot. thanks !
Thanks so much, Roland!!
I love watching longer TH-cam videos especially seeing the inner workings like this. If I was more confident I would try processing my own but not at that stage yet. Great video.
Thanks so much!! Part of the fun in this whole process is the unknown. I mean, I could get perfect results every time if I just sent everything to a lab but where's the excitement in that :)
You can do it, just jump right in, make mistakes, you'll be glad you did!!
Nice Video! Thanks for the mention!
Thanks, Ruben!
Hi filmboy24! Used this video to remove the loop formers. Hardest part for me was re aligning the sprocket wheel. Thank God I marked it and had some test film lying around. Cuz for 15minuites of re adjusting and eating film I finally got it! Used foam instead of tape for the footage counter and shone a 100 lumen flashlight in complete darkness and all I'd well! Thanks so much for the video it was super helpful!!!
Thanks so much! Glad you got everything working properly.
@Filmboy24 so recently I've noticed my shutter blade mirrors are quite dirty and they appear to have somghing smeared across the glass, any tips as to how to clean them? It looks kinda fogged and light flares in the viewfinder making it hard to compose, the image captured is fine and I can tell the mirrors are dirty and smeared.
Thanks for the video. I just managed to remove the loop formers, and now the camera runs smoothly without jamming.
My pleasure, Thom! Thank you for watching!!
Amazing video! Appreciate the effort and time that goes into your hobby! Thanks for sharing your passion!
Thanks so much!! I really appreciate it!
woohoo! I think I did it correctly - all seems to be working - Thanks so much for this guide
One thing I am unsure about is the winder.. When I turn it clockwise (toward lens) it turns somewhat freely, I thought I remembered it not moving at all pre-loopformer removal but I could just be imagining things. Turning counterclockwise winds the motor and all seems to be working in that sense however.
I see in your vid when you wind it that yours appears to do the same when turning clockwise so perhaps all is fine.
AWESOME!! Glad to hear it!! Yes, the crank handle should turn freely clockwise. I think that's so you don't have to take your hand off the handle to keep winding.
@@Filmboy24 lovely thankyou for that confirmation
Nice. I watched the whoooole thing and am considering going Super 16 for my K3, but haven’t pulled the trigger on buying the gate and centering ring yet. I also like to do things myself, so filing the opening of my gate and possibly foregoing the re-centering ring (unless I can find just the ring) are next on my list. I did remove my loop formers (sorry, watched a different video before doing that), which took me all of 20 minutes. I’ll go back in and finish light sealing the heck out of it soon. Looking forward to your new content sir!
Thanks, Mike!! I have 2 K3 cameras and I kept one pretty original (minus the loop formers) and one has been super 16 modded. I have to tell you, I rarely ever touch my standard 16 one. It does take some getting used to the framing though, something I've messed up on several occasions. I'm like you, I love to DIY stuff and filing the gate does seem like it's be pretty easy to do. If you do it, make sure you polish it until you think its perfect, then polish it again :)
Excellent video. I need to drag myself into the world of 16mm. I can't wait to see the color film to come. The double-x you posted here is fabulous. Oh well, you can't blame the vertical scratch on the splitter this time, LOL.
Thanks, and you are right shooting amateur film and home movies is all about fun. I certainly enjoy it as a hobby. Keep the great content coming Mike.
Thanks, Cecil! You know, there aren't many that truly "get it". It's much less about perfection and way more about the enjoyment and complete control of the hands on process. I think you and I were cut from the same mold.
I followed NASCAR for many years and early on, my favorite driver (even had the opportunity to sit down with him for a few minutes) was Alan Kulwicki. He was a true master at his craft and did everything on his own with very little money or support. He even turned down large teams like Jr. Johnson and continued to do everything himself. Well, in his tragically shortened career, he won the championship in 1992. Did everything himself :)
I didnt know you had 3.7k subs til today i have thought you had a few hundred thousand i think if you keep going your gonna get there
Thanks, Joe!!
Congratulations for this amazing change and 16/9 result image¡
I love your work! And thank you!
Is it possible to change the viewfinder to show the full image after conversion to super 16?
Thanks so much!! There probably is a way but it’s way out of my pay grade 😄. In all honesty, it would be very difficult and would likely have to be done by a professional.
Great video. Bought a K3 a few month ago. Now I have to have the guts to put film inside 😃
Thanks so much!! Once you get film inside it, there's no turning back 😄
Super great video! Question for you -- in the process of removing the parts i somehow messed up the crank/motor to where it is not winding/catching correctly. any idea how to fix?
Thank you, Joshua! One of the trickiest parts of this modification, for me, was re-assembling the inner plate. I think that's probably where your problem lies. The little flat gear on the bottom side of the plate likes to pop off during installation. You have to make sure it stays seated properly while pushing the plate back in and you have to make sure the plate seats completely. Sometimes it seemed like the plate was flat but it wasn't. I tried cranking a little while seating it to try and "help" it in.
this video was incredibly helpful. Thank you
My pleasure, thank you for watching, Jake!!
Is the Bolex has the same isue? Should be taped? Thank you for the informative vid! Love it❤
Thank you!! It's probably a good idea to tape the Bolex door also, just to be sure.
Ohhh yaaahhh . I’m also waiting for a super 16 converted looks like it might take a year 😆
That year will be up before you know it!! 🤣
Congrats!!! Just skipped through the video and checked the crucial steps. Looks perfect to me! Now I look forward to your very first Super 16 footage! If you don't mind, I will pin a link to this video on my channel (shameless self promotion, oops 😁😆). Congrats again!!!!
Thanks, I don't mind at all. In fact, I just added links to yours and Rubin's channels in the video description.
@@Filmboy24 👍
@@Filmboy24 just watched your S16 test footage. The vertical scratch is in fact on the extended side (right hand side on the resulting Image). Since it's completely straight, as opposed to wavy, and it looks like an emulsion scratch, it can only be the gate. It might be a remaining burr still. Most extended gates cause nasty scratches. You can see that on most K-3 S 16 footage. You might want to check again and perhaps use coarser sandpaper first. I still need to remove my gate and polish again, since my polishing wasn't enough to eliminate all micro burrs on the extended side. No idea what caused the light leak. Anyway: looking good!
@@truefilm6991 Thanks so much!! Will be re-polishing it before I run any more film through it for sure!
@@Filmboy24 great. I know it's a lot of hassle, but the K-3, once in perfect working order, delivers killer images on par with professionally made movies. PS, I very highly recommend sealing the footage counter box also where it meets the baffle plate. That's where the light leaks cone from. I placed a small LED flashlight inside my K-3 and I spotted exactly where the light is leaking. The footage counter is the culprit. Once sealed all around and the window outside sealed as you did, you are all set. Thanks for accepting my humble suggestions. I'm into film and film cameras since I was a child and still learning every day. Best of luck with your K-3. I'm sure you will come up with killer results!!!
Do you think it’s necessary do also regrease the camera? I’m afraid of breaking something as grease is always a bit tricky and could mess things up pretty quickly.
I think it's a good idea if you have grinding or winding noises, however, as you probably know, a tiny bit of grease goes a long way :)
You're like the dad I never had
I’m having a hard time finding a super 16 gate. Can I file the 16mm gate myself? Do you have info on the measurements if I were to try?
Hi Andis, I have never filed one down myself but I guess you probably could. I don't know the exact measurements, as mine is installed. If you do attempt to file it yourself, I would suggest really polishing after you're done.
Wow, good job!
Thanks so much, Rob!!
Wait... Don't you have to recenter the ring by shifting it a bit to the side? So the lens is centered with the film?
You don't actually recenter the ring itself, the new recentered ring is milled offset. In other words, when you replace the factory ring with the offset one, the M42 threads are offset to compensate for the wider gate.
so i just bought a K3, what is the benefit of removing the loop formers? and also couldnt i just sand down the gate from 16 to super 16 myself? seems quite expensive what they run online for.. nice video btw! thahks for the detailed instructions!
Thank you for watching! I personally don't like the loop formers in the K-3 because they're "clunky" and have a tendency to scratch film. You could certainly file your gate down (I've never personally done it) but be very careful to remove all the burrs or you'll certainly scratch your film. You will also need to re-center your lens, so that the image is centered on your new frame size.
@@Filmboy24 thank you for the input, i guess i just have to try :D
This is great! Sadly my K-3 S16 still produces a scratch and a small dark spot can be seen on the gate as if something chipped. Can I polish on-camera? Or can I remove the gate without removing anything else? How to polish?!
Thank you!! Mine did the same thing (scratch) after I completed the upgrade. This was after I polished the new gate before installing. The gate can’t be removed without pulling the big cover plate, so I used really fine (like 2000 grit) sand paper and gent and carefully went over the gate while in the camera. I honestly don’t recommend doing much polishing while the gate is attached but a tiny bit didn’t hurt anything on mine, and I fixed the scratch. Best of luck!!
@@Filmboy24 Thank you! So you can use that 2000 dry on the gate without oil? I read somewhere (Christian?) using sewing machine oil for polishing with sand papaer?!
@@michaelpetersenfilm Christian definitely knows his stuff, and under ideal conditions, you should probably use a drop of oil but for a microscopic burr, it won't hurt anything without. If you plan on doing anything other than a little polishing with 2000+ paper, I'd remove it.
Hey do you know any repair/servicing places for the K-3? I recently purchased one and want to make sure if I have a problem to keep it alive.
That's a great question and No, unfortunately I don't know of anyone that works on these K-3 cameras.
hello : )
Where can I purchase this gate and this ring to do this conversion?
Thanks
As far as I know, the only place to order the set (gate and lens re-center) is on Ebay. That's where I got mine.
What’s the size of slotted screwdriver would you need to fit the different screws?
That's a good question. I didn't really pay attention when I was using them, however I know the screws inside the film compartment used just a standard size, the gate used a bit smaller and the center sprocket roller was really tiny (like a jewelers screwdriver). You could get away with 2 sizes, a small and very small.
I went thru this process today and removing the loop formers/instaling the gate went really well, your video was super helpful!
I am however having a lot of trouble reassembling the camera. When i first put the camera back together after the upgrade the shutter only fired for about 3 seconds, wasnt able to get it to work at all after that, winding wasnt workin, the handle just bounces back and has far too much tension (i'd be scared to push it more than an inch) because of this, there is leftover tension in the spring I am unable to let out with the shutter, so every time I take the plate off the spring tension releases (which i really hope isnt doing much damage) after a while ( I think) I concluded it was because the washer/gear that fits into the claws wasnt seated properly. Any advice on getting that thing in the right orientation? ive tried more times than i'd care to admit, and its really hard to know if its right once the plate is in.
sorry for the essay! it cost me a couple paychecks and im terrified i have broken the camera, im praying the washer is the issue.
Hi Andy, thanks for your kind words!
That little sprocketed washer was probably the most confusing part of the whole process for me. You definitely have to make sure that each of the 3 "claws" engage the washer and that each of the 3 springs are seated in the slots behind the "claws". When I did mine (and a friend's), I tried to make sure that the washed was centered, even though it kind of looked like it wasn't engaging the claws/sprockets perfectly. In other word, for some reason the washer has 20 teeth and 3 have to be engaged with the little "claws", even though 20 isn't evenly divided by 3. Not sure why this was done but there will be 5 empty "teeth" then a claw, 5 more then a claw, then 6 empty and the last claw. Try and note the position of the square hole and get it as close as you can to the same orientation as the square post that it will be seated on. Place the whole thing down, slowly and carefully and once it's flat, turn the camera crank a little, while pressing the plate down to fully seat it. It took me a couple tries (replacing the gear) to finally get it down but you'll know when it's done because you can crank your camera and fire it.
Hope this helps, best of luck!!
@@Filmboy24 thank you sooo much for the detailed reply! i managed to get the camera working last night after a lot of fiddling, seems to work great now with the new gate and loop formers removed!
I will keep this information in mind/noted though as im going to (carefully) reopen the camera to replace the foam!
@@riotslug85 My pleasure!!
Where do you get the S16 Gate and lens port?
I got mine on Ebay a couple years ago. When I got mine, they were plentiful on there but it's seems to be pretty difficult to find them anymore.
Yeah Im not finding any! Time to get out my grinder! LoL @@Filmboy24
@@MindfulnessStudios LOL, Good Luck!!
Why is the transfer pulsing?
I wish I knew. I mentioned it in the video. It's happened to me in the past.
@@Filmboy24Honestly, I think its the Lomo developer that you’re using. Try using a Morse tank. My gut tells me that would give you better results.
@@Asset1968 I think you're right, I really believe it has something to do with my processing. I've had a few of those Morse tanks over the years, just never used one. Is that what you use? I may have to pick another one up.
@@Filmboy24 I have beautiful results with my Morse tank
@@Asset1968 Thanks! Don't go far, I may be leaning on you before too long 🤣
Great video! I just ordered a ultra 16 K-3 but noticed the one I ordered still has the loop formers. Is this a MUST to remove them? Or just a good idea?
Thanks Caleb! It's not an absolute MUST to remove the loop formers, in fact, many people do not. I left mine in for a few rolls and really didn't like them at all. They're very cheap plastic and on a string system, which just doesn't seem to work too well (feels like it struggles sometimes). I've also heard people say that their film was scratched by them, though it never happened to me. I'd say shoot a couple rolls and see how it looks and feels for you. If they don't bother you, I'd just let them be.
@@Filmboy24 Thanks so much for the reply! The operation to remove them myself makes me nervous so I'd rather be able to leave them if I can
@@calebstasko My pleasure, I understand.
Hi, after I remove loop former, my camera trigger is not working. Do you have any ideas what did I done wrong?
I'm not exactly sure what may have happened, however the trickiest part for me was keeping that little gear in place on the underside of the cover plate while re-assembling. I know if that gear is not on properly or falls off, your camera will not run.
I’m curious how your zoom works now. The flange depth difference you measured of about 5 thousandths of an inch (about 0.13 mm) is roughly ten times the usual tolerance for a movie camera flange depth. So if you find that your zoom gets pretty soft at the wide end after focussing at the long end, you might want to shim the mount out. Nice job otherwise!
Hey Dom, good catch! Incidentally, on the same day that I did this video, I did exactly what you said and made a shim. It did affect things a little too much initially, put a shim in and it's back where it belongs. Thank you!!
Could I weld a piece on it to make it do that ?
There isn't much you can't weld!!
Someone may have already asked this, but what if you didn't mark the sprocket and can't find the right spot you removed it from? Thanks everyone! Great video!
Thanks, Kevin!! That's a great question. I didn't really mark mine, so I either got lucky when tightening it back up or it doesn't really matter. I think as long as you re-orient the set screws back in the position they were prior to loosening them, you should be fine. They're no hard to re-adjust, so I'd probably run some leader or test film and adjust from there if necessary.
@@Filmboy24 for some reason mine started with one screw showing and one to the back is that Normal
@@javansmith3080 You have to orient the gear so that you can access both screws. You just has to run the motor with slow bursts to get the gear turned the right way.
@@Filmboy24 do I need to reconnect the board because the winding mechanism not working think I pulled to soon I thought I got to the second screw
@@javansmith3080 What screws are you talking about? I was under the impression you meant the little set screws in the main drive sprocketed roller. If you pulled the cover plate partially out before getting the set screws loosened, your motor will not engage the gears.You may have to re-seat it in order to get the sprocket roller oriented in the right position to get to the other screw.
I converted my own K3 but I have the same scratches on the film.
Did you ever find out where they are coming from?
@@Filmboy24In the gate. Sandpaper can fix it ?
@@Impermeabilizados If it's a small burr or something then yes, very fine grit sandpaper can help remove it.
:( need to not just sand down the modified gate opening, but the key is to polish it. Even a fine sandpaper is just not enough, since the film is being pushed and secured against the gate by way of the spring, it needs a good polish. Machine polish is the best, making it literally shiny and the film just glides across the gate.
Can anyone tell me where to buy a super 16 modified film gate for my k3 ? I can't find it anywhere, thanks. :)
They seem to be getting harder and harder to find these days. I got mine from a seller on eBay.
Hello,
I bought this Krasnogorsk-3 camera in Singapore in 1992 from a Russian Aeroflot pilot who used to do this kind of traffic at a time when the ruble was volatile... It was brand new, still wrapped in its tissue paper. I didn't make any film with it, my Bolex H16 being sufficient for hand-held shots in addition to the 16mm Ariflex.
As it wasn't really part of my filmmaking history, and I needed to lighten my baggage, I tried to sell it. If anyone's interested...
Use electrical tape to tape your camera mags, not gaff tape. It's easier to add/remove without messing up anything.
Thanks!!
If Filmgirl24 can successfully blimp your camera, I'll want to know what her hourly sewing rate is!
LOL, she's made 16mm magazine covers and simple blimps for me in the past, so I'm really hoping she comes through on this one :)
Im three years late and you probably sold the camera by now but the light leaks i see in the footage is coming from the front of the camera, the lens ring you replaced is the problem, you need to remove it and put black silicone on the bottom of the ring then screw it back down and let it dry .. you might want to put thread tape on the lens as well to make it super snug! The footage looks extremely horrible! I shot with a super 8 beaulieu 4008 with a maxed gate i filed down and the footage was HD clean! I used reversal film, i projected it on a clean white wall and record with a $4000 hd Sony camera i had, looks 500 times better then your footage! For super 16 your footage has serious issues!
Why did you pay $4000 for a Sony camcorder?
Also where is your 500 times better footage? Couldnt find it on your channel? Provide a link dude.
@tobinsphotovideo
I paid $4000 because that was the price of the model at the time! Model Hvrv1u .. today it's worth $2500 used.