He bought a Nissan re-manufactured transmission. Don't they demand the core back? I doubt Ivan is going to take this transmission apart given returning it will save him somewhere around $700 over the cost of a brand new unit. At least that's how it worked the last time I did a reman unit
You're doing great Ivan. This reminds me so much of my recent engine swap. At some point you always say, "What have I gotten myself into?" Then you press on and get it done! See you in part three. Thanks!
So, you are living vicariously through the repair videos of others! That's cool. I still do it because I love knowing that it's done right and because I have to save the money.
Getting better by the minute, thanks for making it so detailed. And kudos for doing this job on jack stands, I love seeing jobs I'll never in a million years attempt myself.
Working singlehanded dropping & replacing a very style of subframes on Rovers I use a couple of 1ft/300mm lengths of 12mm threaded studding bar replacing two of subfame bolts as guide rods. It makes it very easy, quick and safe, and when putting back together the bolts line up without any fiddling.
I love your videos Ivan. I loved at 2:35, you got a face full of something, tried to spit it out, and then made a weird noise, like "ewww, that didn't taste good".... we've all been there. Doesn't make it any less unpleasant....
Nissan Rouge and Renault Koleos are the same models.One big corporation xa xa.I have been working on Renaults with nissan engines in it and the other way around.Many asian models have engines from european manufacturers mostly diesel.Keep on wrenching Ivan.Videos are awesome.Greetings from Serbia!!!
Gotta love the northeast, every bolt comes out hard even with an impact! I shoot PB Blaster into the air nipple and wind the impact for a second to get it well lubricated before chattering on a crusty fastener. For whatever reason, that extra bit of lubrication is typically enough to break the most stubborn fasteners free. Can't wait for part 3!
Ivan, to keep these Jatco CVT' units running good you should do a spill and fill at 15 to 20K religiously. Additionally, I would invest in a fluid cooler as heat is your enemy. Your coolant mix is extremely important to the longevity of these units. Cool video series my man. Thanks for offering it.
I've been waiting for part two Woo Hoo. "Its going to be fun to put back in" Exactly what I was thinking. Its good to see you use those wrenches. I'm impressed in that its not too crusty.
Impact guns are life savers. When i did my T-belt, I could not crack my crank bolt loose, even with a 3 foot cheater. Put a DeWalt 1/2 on there with a swivel socket and it was off in about 2 seconds.
Nice job so far Ivan. Good to see the driveshafts came out of the hubs easily! Eric O will be jealous. No big nasty needed eh?!! Thanks for filming. Very enjoyable so far. Best regards from the rainy UK.
Had one of these transmissions go at 77,000 miles..I know its a Jatco transmission, but it has put me off Nissan for life. Never again. Now have a Honda CVT which is much smoother and nicer in every way, plus easier and cheaper to service. Nissan has damaged their name using Jatco transmissions..once bitten, twice shy for me. Great videos by the way!
Ivan If you havent put the subframe back in yet an easy way is use 2 ratchet straps to cradle it and lift it and it should be easy to line up the steering rack.
Julian Thomson Great tip! I use a bar across the the top to each strut mount and a chain or rachet strap to hold the engine. On bottom I used 2 real floor Jacks on each side of the cradle and pump em up. Every car is differnent though as you know
It would be a good excuse to get one of those hobby-oriented vehicle lifts. The ones for people who want a full lift but don't have a lot of open space above their head.
Hahaha I laughed so hard when you got showered in subframe juice ROFL. Those frames will get you every time! I have changed many of those CVTs I used to wrap a rag around the bolt before removing it because there was always at least one full of nasty water!
ivan. pass side axle shaft is 1 peice all the way to trans. same axle as my wifes versa. take bracket off and whole unit comes off. in that bracket is a support bearing.
In my sentra's manual it calls for cvt fluid change every 30k miles. I bought the car with 70k on the clock and the transmission isn't the original, but the fluid is still very clean at 84k.
Good job...When dropping the sub frame. I would of detached the bolts for the rack and pinion and sway bar. This would of allowed you to not disconnect the steering and only dropped the sub frame by itself. excellent job.
takes me 3-4 hours to R&R this trans on a lift. Much respect to you for doing it on jack stands.. I ALWAYS remove that front pipe. If the size on the nuts that hold the pipe on are still 16mm they 95% of the time will simply come loose with an impact gun, no heat required. Nissan used pretty good hardware on the front pipe nuts. If they are no longer 16mm due to rusting away than heat is required. MOST of the time they are in good condition even on older Rogues. What i see on your rogue is fair condition (for NE) and will come out with an impact gun. the r/f axle can be removed with the bracket, but its easier to remove with heat on the bearing bracket while prying. the trick is to pry while heating at the same time (not easy on jack stands i know) it will literally just slide right out ounce that bracket gets a bit of heat on it. be careful of the shift lever getting stuck on the trans mount on your way out with the trans or in with the new trans. its best to just unbolt it and reinstall when your in. if it gets bent your sifter wont line up properly. when done. clear learned value, clear fluid deterioration, you may have to do clutch point relearn also.
I made a small mistake when replacing a trans like this after I overhauled it. Got it all buttoned up and ready to put fluid in it and noticed the new torque converter in a box sitting under the bench.
Thomas Joy I can see that happening. it's so easy to get ahead of yourself when doing a big job like this or any repairs.. there has been a few times where I had to take something back apart because I forgot something.
your doing this the hard way.....you've done a ton of stuff you didn't have too. enjoying this because I do these all day. in fact I have a 2016 rogue half torn down this morning between other jobs.
Could avoid pulling the brakes and pulling the axle out of the hub, Just break the ball joint and pop the axle out of the transmission and wire it up. Still, I figure that axle will be in the way at some point so just pull it. What else could be avoided?
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics intake air tube can be left in. I leave the steering rack in. simply rotate the sway bar around it when pulling it out. as you found out the rf axle will not come out. don't mess with it just pull the bracket and all. pita to get to bolts but can be done. I never pull brake calipers. however I am doing this on a lift....so......that steering rack was the biggest thing you had some time in messing with it.
If the length of the O2 senser wiring allows, pull the front two rubber exhaust hangers and pull the exhaust fasteners at the engine. This should drop the exhaust enough for easy access.
fyi on the long shaft if you can get to the nuts or bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the engine , loosen them and pull the shaft bearing retainer as one , use prybar where shaft goes into the tranny.
I was watching with bated breath as you started lowering the subframe, waiting for the "Oh shit, I forgot the power steering lines!" moment. Fortunately it seems you'd already disconnected them off-camera. :-)
Fresh fluid is your best friend (and a cooler) with any auto trans. The fluid was way beyond doing its job here, I am really surprised that you got this much from a CVT. This type of transmission has been plagued with problems right from day one, Nissan alone had so many recalls it is silly. Many of these transmissions would fail right after the mileage warranty ended leaving folks with the exact same problem you have here. The general consensus is that if you get 100,000 miles from one, you got lucky. Changing the fluid and filter is critical with all auto transmissions, the CVT especially. No matter what the OEM says, fresh clean fluid works much better.
ah there are rebuild kits and all kinds of parts available for that CVT, just not from Nissan, and possibly not from American sources but CVT parts new zealand sells and ships here.
Progress! Nice gift of stagnant swamp water she gave you there, lol - been there! :D Just watched a teardown vid of what I believe is the same transmission. That belt is an odd duck! Looks like it's metal chainmail - very strange. Can't tell if it's covering rubber, but I'd doubt it, since it's being bathed in oil. I'd bet yours broke, just from the symptoms.
Smitty Smithsonite I probably watched the same one last night too. My take is Nissan wants you to buy a new car every 100k miles. I'm assuming its the Renualt part of Nissan making these design choices. I chose Mitsubishi Lancer for a new car 3 months ago. 2.0 4 and a "real" 5 speed trans. The design has is reliable, but simple If I have to wrench on it one day. Plenty of parts available for the manual trans and engine. So maybe this is why Ivan only got a 12/12 warranty? Nissan wants Ivan to give up and trade it in a newer even more complicated car... Which might make it to 80k before transmission failure. Making them even more rich😐
I agree..I just bought a 99 Acura CL..very very easy to work on, but went with a 5 speed as it seems Honda didnt build the automatic worth a damn for that and other Honda's for about 5 years ,,but NOBODY messes up a 5 speed. I have had 2 car with Auto trannys ..both failed..even though I usually change the tranny fluid before 10000 miles ( was so easy why not ?)
Yeah, I hear that, Garrett - seems to be the way of the 21st Century. Will be no more taking cars out of a field and getting them running with a little elbow grease. They're loaded with failure prone parts, and all of them will be unobtanium in 10 years. Can you imagine the electrical problems after sitting outdoors for 10 years in one spot? Would be enough to make you throw a torch inside ... I've got an '07 Silverado (my newest vehicle), and GM has already discontinued quite a few parts on that thing already! It's ridiculous. I'll never buy another GM product ever again. Had so many problems with that one. Brakes pulsated with just 42 miles on the clock on the test drive! Too many issues to list ... I also own a '86 Grand Marquis, and a '93 Volvo 940 - I'll be keeping those until I'm 6' under. :)
it had no "hydraulic pressure" when he did initial diagnostics, while the belt could have broken and took out passageways. it's most likely the pump took a dump, possibly from the torque converter going first :)
do like me, change transmission, u joints, brakes, rear main, front seal, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, fuel pump, power steering pump, all hoses, exhaust. outcome 0 leaks on a 1982 chevy van, drive it about 6 months and park it in a 4' deep ditch with the drivers front buckled and folded to the floorboard. end result? the scrap yard got a lot of nice parts :( i forgot about all the ball joints and other suspension/steering parts..
I must of missed something. How are you supporting the engine with the crossmember out? I thought the mounts hook to the crossmember. One I think. Thanks so much for posting. You have way more patience then I do
You're doing great! Brave man tackling that, your wife is very lucky you can fix it for her :) My husband wouldn't know where to put an oil filter lol lucky for me I like working on cars. A transmission job is way out of my league though so I'm enjoying watching your progress :)
In the Nissan cvts that fluid should be greenish color, I can't tell just by looking at the video ,but if red ATF fluid was used that could destroy the trans.
... My Nissan Rogue 2014 just blew the CVT at 90,000km.. 55,000 miles. It's still under warranty, but only by days so Nissan is still fixing it, but I can see this being an issue again in a few years. I've rebuilt car engines before including head gasket and machining the head myself, but this is *much* more intense than that... I thought I could do this myself, but this job has me stumped. I'll have to sell the car before another 55000 miles goes by.. :(
regardless of what the manufacturer says I change those cvt fluids every 60000km. I don't buy into the long term BS. as parts wear debris is added to the fluid, even though the fluid may retain its properties it is no longer clean and in my opinion becomes.more abrasive over time
Odd question, maybe, but what do you reckon one of those 32mm impact sockets weighs? Oh, and Mrs. Ivan should get you a beefier air compressor for Father's Day... :D
Are you going to R and R other items while everything is taken apart? New rear main is cheap insurance even if it's not strictly necessary, although you saw some leakage at the bellhousing. New ball joints at least?
Fascinating stuff, though I bet Eric O. is laughing at your having to work on a creeper. Maybe Nissan made things easy to disassemble since they knew their techs would be replacing those CVTs on a regular basis. ;)
6:39 ... well it looks like a Renault product, projector lights and grill ... just because they merged around 2000. Renault is using Nissan parts as well, so they are not enterely European.
1978 Trans Am floorboards were wet - plugged AC drain. Rather than raise the car I squeezed under. I finally discovered the drain directly over my head and I was pretty much stuck in place. So, dummy me, I stuck in piece of wire and out came all the stinky water. I thought I was going to drown.
that always worked good for me, mostly used it for gas tanks, I'd remove the jack cup and carriage bolt the wood through the hole. then I got a transmission jack, having "tilt" is nice, even more so for actual transmissions :)
Hey Ivan, maybe you can ask Eric O about the captioning issue. he has it in no matter how long the length of the video. I just thought of that. and now I'm gonna watch this vid. will make another comment after this :)
Hello Ivan, can you show us the proper way to check tranamission flued on nissan rogues? My 2012 rogue seems to have none when hot,don't know if not properly checking.
Hey IV, Great video. Did it really go that smoothly? I've been doing this, well doing everything there is to all models since I was young. I have been working at a garage Wilson's since 94 and without a rack I doubt >I could do it. Flat backing takes certain muscles 💪 David ain't g.ottem.. ..David Keller
If possible, i allways leave the stabilizer bar and steering rack on the car when i take the subframe out of the car. To me its faster way to get the main job done. But hey, now they are away of the filming :D
That oil leak could also be the mating surface between the engine block and the upper oil pan near the main seal...Nissan used RTV everywhere. And I can't imagine tearing the block apart to fix a silly issue like that lol
Draining the swamp Ivan. Now repeal and replace the CVT. 😂 Thanks for sharing this. Its bad enough working on the floor, but filming too must suck! Nearly 200K on the original ball joints isn't bad. Anyone know who makes Nissan's suspension components? Nissan are a weird manufacturer. They have that tie up with Renault and a lot of the cars they sell here in the UK are basically eurotrash underneath. I also know several companies who supplied Nissan parts but gave up on it because they are awful to deal with. Same companies have no problems with Ford, Toyota, Honda, BMW, Mercedes. etc
I'm changing my transfer case on 2010 rogue, I have a engine support bar, my question is, where do i connect my chain's too I don't see any engine hooks on the engine
have to drop the exhaust pipe make life more easy to remove starter also and you can take the bracket off with the cv axle and remove diff for less weight for you. taking it out easy it's going back in on the ground lol
With the Subframe removed- what is now supporting the drivetrain? I assume it has other mounts, somewhere on the unibody? That's totally opposite of my car.
CAN YOU OPEN 👉OLD TRANSMISSION TO LOOK WHAT THE PROBLEM just for curiosity ....PLEASE😇😇😇
i would also love to see a teardown :)
BkaTuto in the description it says he'll do a tear-down of it in the future
Come on guys, this is Ivan were talking about here! He will definitely take it apart!
He bought a Nissan re-manufactured transmission. Don't they demand the core back? I doubt Ivan is going to take this transmission apart given returning it will save him somewhere around $700 over the cost of a brand new unit. At least that's how it worked the last time I did a reman unit
Hmm, yeah. However, I believe he hinted at possibly risking that in part 1. We shall see!
I would never attempt this job in a million years. It doesn't stop me from watching. Loving every minute.
This is the "easy" part so far ;)
I was thinking that!
You're doing great Ivan. This reminds me so much of my recent engine swap. At some point you always say, "What have I gotten myself into?" Then you press on and get it done! See you in part three. Thanks!
Baxrok2
This is why I watch repair videos, and don't work on my own cars anymore.
So, you are living vicariously through the repair videos of others! That's cool. I still do it because I love knowing that it's done right and because I have to save the money.
Kudos to you for tackling this job. I would never attempt to do this. Just light repairs for me. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Ivan is the GOAT of Auto Repair
Ivan, thanks again for the hardwork. I love these nuts and bolts videos, where its easy to follow along.
Getting better by the minute, thanks for making it so detailed. And kudos for doing this job on jack stands, I love seeing jobs I'll never in a million years attempt myself.
Working singlehanded dropping & replacing a very style of subframes on Rovers I use a couple of 1ft/300mm lengths of 12mm threaded studding bar replacing two of subfame bolts as guide rods. It makes it very easy, quick and safe, and when putting back together the bolts line up without any fiddling.
I love your videos Ivan. I loved at 2:35, you got a face full of something, tried to spit it out, and then made a weird noise, like "ewww, that didn't taste good".... we've all been there. Doesn't make it any less unpleasant....
Suprised by how little rust there is. Nice job. Thx for sharing.
I was thinking the same thing. Sub frame was still black and shiny!
Nissan Rouge and Renault Koleos are the same models.One big corporation xa xa.I have been working on Renaults with nissan engines in it and the other way around.Many asian models have engines from european manufacturers mostly diesel.Keep on wrenching Ivan.Videos are awesome.Greetings from Serbia!!!
Gotta love the northeast, every bolt comes out hard even with an impact!
I shoot PB Blaster into the air nipple and wind the impact for a second to get it well lubricated before chattering on a crusty fastener. For whatever reason, that extra bit of lubrication is typically enough to break the most stubborn fasteners free.
Can't wait for part 3!
Respect for doing this job on the floor with jackstands.
Guess we'd all love to take a peek at the inside of that CVT Ivan....
Ivan, to keep these Jatco CVT' units running good you should do a spill and fill at 15 to 20K religiously. Additionally, I would invest in a fluid cooler as heat is your enemy. Your coolant mix is extremely important to the longevity of these units. Cool video series my man. Thanks for offering it.
Great work Ivan, really enjoying watching. Thanks for taking the time to video this job.
I've been waiting for part two Woo Hoo. "Its going to be fun to put back in" Exactly what I was thinking. Its good to see you use those wrenches. I'm impressed in that its not too crusty.
very well done -- thanks for taking the time to share the project with us!!
good job! big job for the garage. Big fan from Grand Blanc Michigan!
Damn Ivan ain't playin. His old lady wants her rogue back fr. Nice work.
Impact guns are life savers. When i did my T-belt, I could not crack my crank bolt loose, even with a 3 foot cheater. Put a DeWalt 1/2 on there with a swivel socket and it was off in about 2 seconds.
Nice job so far Ivan. Good to see the driveshafts came out of the hubs easily! Eric O will be jealous. No big nasty needed eh?!!
Thanks for filming. Very enjoyable so far.
Best regards from the rainy UK.
That's because I replaced the hub assemblies within the last few years and greased the splines before installation :)
Had one of these transmissions go at 77,000 miles..I know its a Jatco transmission, but it has put me off Nissan for life. Never again. Now have a Honda CVT which is much smoother and nicer in every way, plus easier and cheaper to service. Nissan has damaged their name using Jatco transmissions..once bitten, twice shy for me. Great videos by the way!
I'm looking forward to the video where you crack open the failed trans that came out. Ive never been inside a CVT.
Great video! Again, thanks for showing the entire process. Off to watch part 3.
Your video is extremely detailed and we'll done. I'm doing the job right now.
Thank you
The old water in the face was funny. But that could have been bad if that would have gotten in your eye directly. GREAT VIDS MAN!
xD
Ivan If you havent put the subframe back in yet an easy way is use 2 ratchet straps to cradle it and lift it and it should be easy to line up the steering rack.
Great tip thank you!
Using studded bar screwed into holes as guide pins helps as well.
Julian Thomson Great tip! I use a bar across the the top to each strut mount and a chain or rachet strap to hold the engine. On bottom I used 2 real floor Jacks on each side of the cradle and pump em up. Every car is differnent though as you know
I use ratchet straps when I remove and replace transmissions when I dont have a lift and working on my own. it is safer, no squashed fingers etc.
It would be a good excuse to get one of those hobby-oriented vehicle lifts. The ones for people who want a full lift but don't have a lot of open space above their head.
@19:50 "I assume the whole thing will slide right out.....". BAAWWHAAAAAA!!!!!!😂
Hahaha I laughed so hard when you got showered in subframe juice ROFL. Those frames will get you every time! I have changed many of those CVTs I used to wrap a rag around the bolt before removing it because there was always at least one full of nasty water!
Please consider flushing the radiator oil cooler for the transmission, since any debris in the cooler will contaminate the new unit.
ivan. pass side axle shaft is 1 peice all the way to trans. same axle as my wifes versa. take bracket off and whole unit comes off. in that bracket is a support bearing.
In my sentra's manual it calls for cvt fluid change every 30k miles. I bought the car with 70k on the clock and the transmission isn't the original, but the fluid is still very clean at 84k.
They may not take the core back untouched or torn down after they hear what you said about them. Ivan's quote "silly Nissan".
Good job...When dropping the sub frame. I would of detached the bolts for the rack and pinion and sway bar. This would of allowed you to not disconnect the steering and only dropped the sub frame by itself. excellent job.
takes me 3-4 hours to R&R this trans on a lift. Much respect to you for doing it on jack stands.. I ALWAYS remove that front pipe. If the size on the nuts that hold the pipe on are still 16mm they 95% of the time will simply come loose with an impact gun, no heat required. Nissan used pretty good hardware on the front pipe nuts. If they are no longer 16mm due to rusting away than heat is required. MOST of the time they are in good condition even on older Rogues. What i see on your rogue is fair condition (for NE) and will come out with an impact gun.
the r/f axle can be removed with the bracket, but its easier to remove with heat on the bearing bracket while prying. the trick is to pry while heating at the same time (not easy on jack stands i know) it will literally just slide right out ounce that bracket gets a bit of heat on it.
be careful of the shift lever getting stuck on the trans mount on your way out with the trans or in with the new trans. its best to just unbolt it and reinstall when your in. if it gets bent your sifter wont line up properly.
when done. clear learned value, clear fluid deterioration, you may have to do clutch point relearn also.
I made a small mistake when replacing a trans like this after I overhauled it. Got it all buttoned up and ready to put fluid in it and noticed the new torque converter in a box sitting under the bench.
Thomas Joy I can see that happening. it's so easy to get ahead of yourself when doing a big job like this or any repairs.. there has been a few times where I had to take something back apart because I forgot something.
Auto Fix Pal i love your videos bro, im a sub to you.
heyitschino thank you for your subscription..it's been a while but I promise I have more videos coming soon.
I'm shocked the flex tube for the exhaust is still in good shape no tears or leaks!
Nothing but quality work Ivan I need help diagnose a problem I will pay
your doing this the hard way.....you've done a ton of stuff you didn't have too. enjoying this because I do these all day. in fact I have a 2016 rogue half torn down this morning between other jobs.
Could avoid pulling the brakes and pulling the axle out of the hub, Just break the ball joint and pop the axle out of the transmission and wire it up. Still, I figure that axle will be in the way at some point so just pull it. What else could be avoided?
Hi Shawn, I would love to know what I could have shortcut here...seemed like the path of least resistance so far?
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics intake air tube can be left in. I leave the steering rack in. simply rotate the sway bar around it when pulling it out. as you found out the rf axle will not come out. don't mess with it just pull the bracket and all. pita to get to bolts but can be done. I never pull brake calipers. however I am doing this on a lift....so......that steering rack was the biggest thing you had some time in messing with it.
Good opportunity to give that subframe some extra rust protection and all the areas it covers up...
If the length of the O2 senser wiring allows, pull the front two rubber exhaust hangers and pull the exhaust fasteners at the engine. This should drop the exhaust enough for easy access.
would like to see the transmission filter and what's in it
Maybe you can get Scanner Danner to help put it back together, You tech guys are fun to watch!
awesome..3 days in a wow..thought I was going to have to wait till Tuesday
Rookie mistakes on that outer tie rod Ivan! it happens... Thanks for sharing!
ah those nuts were tight all the way to the last thread!
Nice video. The details really help
fyi on the long shaft if you can get to the nuts or bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the engine , loosen them and pull the shaft bearing retainer as one , use prybar where shaft goes into the tranny.
I was watching with bated breath as you started lowering the subframe, waiting for the "Oh shit, I forgot the power steering lines!" moment. Fortunately it seems you'd already disconnected them off-camera. :-)
Better yet, this is ELECTRIC assist power steering! The electric part is under the dash, no hydraulic lines to worry about ;)
Fresh fluid is your best friend (and a cooler) with any auto trans. The fluid was way beyond doing its job here, I am really surprised that you got this much from a CVT. This type of transmission has been plagued with problems right from day one, Nissan alone had so many recalls it is silly. Many of these transmissions would fail right after the mileage warranty ended leaving folks with the exact same problem you have here. The general consensus is that if you get 100,000 miles from one, you got lucky. Changing the fluid and filter is critical with all auto transmissions, the CVT especially. No matter what the OEM says, fresh clean fluid works much better.
ah there are rebuild kits and all kinds of parts available for that CVT, just not from Nissan, and possibly not from American sources but CVT parts new zealand sells and ships here.
Progress!
Nice gift of stagnant swamp water she gave you there, lol - been there! :D
Just watched a teardown vid of what I believe is the same transmission. That belt is an odd duck! Looks like it's metal chainmail - very strange. Can't tell if it's covering rubber, but I'd doubt it, since it's being bathed in oil.
I'd bet yours broke, just from the symptoms.
Smitty Smithsonite
I probably watched the same one last night too. My take is Nissan wants you to buy a new car every 100k miles. I'm assuming its the Renualt part of Nissan making these design choices.
I chose Mitsubishi Lancer for a new car 3 months ago. 2.0 4 and a "real" 5 speed trans. The design has is reliable, but simple If I have to wrench on it one day. Plenty of parts available for the manual trans and engine.
So maybe this is why Ivan only got a 12/12 warranty? Nissan wants Ivan to give up and trade it in a newer even more complicated car... Which might make it to 80k before transmission failure.
Making them even more rich😐
I agree..I just bought a 99 Acura CL..very very easy to work on, but went with a 5 speed as it seems Honda didnt build the automatic worth a damn for that and other Honda's for about 5 years ,,but NOBODY messes up a 5 speed.
I have had 2 car with Auto trannys ..both failed..even though I usually change the tranny fluid before 10000 miles ( was so easy why not ?)
Yeah, I hear that, Garrett - seems to be the way of the 21st Century. Will be no more taking cars out of a field and getting them running with a little elbow grease. They're loaded with failure prone parts, and all of them will be unobtanium in 10 years. Can you imagine the electrical problems after sitting outdoors for 10 years in one spot? Would be enough to make you throw a torch inside ...
I've got an '07 Silverado (my newest vehicle), and GM has already discontinued quite a few parts on that thing already! It's ridiculous. I'll never buy another GM product ever again. Had so many problems with that one. Brakes pulsated with just 42 miles on the clock on the test drive! Too many issues to list ...
I also own a '86 Grand Marquis, and a '93 Volvo 940 - I'll be keeping those until I'm 6' under. :)
it had no "hydraulic pressure" when he did initial diagnostics, while the belt could have broken and took out passageways. it's most likely the pump took a dump, possibly from the torque converter going first :)
Ahh, yeah you're right - I forgot all about that ... and I had just watched that vid!
do like me, change transmission, u joints, brakes, rear main, front seal, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, fuel pump, power steering pump, all hoses, exhaust. outcome 0 leaks on a 1982 chevy van, drive it about 6 months and park it in a 4' deep ditch with the drivers front buckled and folded to the floorboard. end result? the scrap yard got a lot of nice parts :(
i forgot about all the ball joints and other suspension/steering parts..
Oh man that sucks!
Tasty Ivan, subframe water! Have you thought about putting some rustproofing on that subframe while have it out?
Yuk ---
I must of missed something. How are you supporting the engine with the crossmember out? I thought the mounts hook to the crossmember. One I think. Thanks so much for posting. You have way more patience then I do
this dude is my spirit animal!!!!
You're doing great! Brave man tackling that, your wife is very lucky you can fix it for her :) My husband wouldn't know where to put an oil filter lol lucky for me I like working on cars. A transmission job is way out of my league though so I'm enjoying watching your progress :)
Probably filter blocked causing clutches to overheat. So yes with new fluid and filter 40k ago still be agoodun.
In the Nissan cvts that fluid should be greenish color, I can't tell just by looking at the video ,but if red ATF fluid was used that could destroy the trans.
I would change the rear main oil seal anyway while box is out!!!
Great so far have you considered a atv lift cheap and low, wider foot print though but a lot more surface area for lifting.
That's not a bad idea...maybe it's time to visit Harbor Freight :)
Grab a 20% off coupon available anywhere
... My Nissan Rogue 2014 just blew the CVT at 90,000km.. 55,000 miles. It's still under warranty, but only by days so Nissan is still fixing it, but I can see this being an issue again in a few years. I've rebuilt car engines before including head gasket and machining the head myself, but this is *much* more intense than that... I thought I could do this myself, but this job has me stumped. I'll have to sell the car before another 55000 miles goes by.. :(
Good luck going forward
regardless of what the manufacturer says I change those cvt fluids every 60000km. I don't buy into the long term BS. as parts wear debris is added to the fluid, even though the fluid may retain its properties it is no longer clean and in my opinion becomes.more abrasive over time
First time seeing AWD ...thanks mate...
about this time a Dwarf would come in handy!
I cannot believe the amount of parts you have to take off just to get to that transmission!
haha pretty much everything except for the engine!
Odd question, maybe, but what do you reckon one of those 32mm impact sockets weighs?
Oh, and Mrs. Ivan should get you a beefier air compressor for Father's Day... :D
Ivan and remember to get paid for what you do !!! 😂😂😂😂
probably just trying to get off the couch as is :))
Are you going to R and R other items while everything is taken apart? New rear main is cheap insurance even if it's not strictly necessary, although you saw some leakage at the bellhousing. New ball joints at least?
I would be having a full blown "mechanics tourettes" fit
I think you should invite Eric O down for a weekend when you get ready for reassembly!
He said intermediate shaft...its one piece and does not separate in middle on bearing transfer case to engine bracket
Fascinating stuff, though I bet Eric O. is laughing at your having to work on a creeper. Maybe Nissan made things easy to disassemble since they knew their techs would be replacing those CVTs on a regular basis. ;)
6:39 ... well it looks like a Renault product, projector lights and grill ... just because they merged around 2000. Renault is using Nissan parts as well, so they are not enterely European.
good job Ivan u drained the swamp 😷
should we nickname him "swampy" ?
1978 Trans Am floorboards were wet - plugged AC drain. Rather than raise the car I squeezed under. I finally discovered the drain directly over my head and I was pretty much stuck in place. So, dummy me, I stuck in piece of wire and out came all the stinky water. I thought I was going to drown.
"big dummy" @ Lorrin Barth, not like we all haven't done plenty of bonehead moves over the years :)))
buenos días muy buen vídeo ...solo que no tienes activado el traductor en español
Can you theow a piece of plywood under the cross member so that you could raise / lower it with 1 jack in the center ?
God bless
Wyr
that always worked good for me, mostly used it for gas tanks, I'd remove the jack cup and carriage bolt the wood through the hole. then I got a transmission jack, having "tilt" is nice, even more so for actual transmissions :)
I( have used it for gas tanks , when dropping them to replace fuel pump .
God bless
Wyr
Hey Ivan, maybe you can ask Eric O about the captioning issue. he has it in no matter how long the length of the video. I just thought of that. and now I'm gonna watch this vid. will make another comment after this :)
Hello Ivan, can you show us the proper way to check tranamission flued on nissan rogues? My 2012 rogue seems to have none when hot,don't know if not properly checking.
Hey IV, Great video. Did it really go that smoothly? I've been doing this, well doing everything there is to all models since I was young. I have been working at a garage Wilson's since 94 and without a rack I doubt >I could do it. Flat backing takes certain muscles 💪 David ain't g.ottem..
..David Keller
If possible, i allways leave the stabilizer bar and steering rack on the car when i take the subframe out of the car. To me its faster way to get the main job done.
But hey, now they are away of the filming :D
Yeah in this case it was actually a lot faster to disconnect the sway links and tie rod ends and lower the whole assembly :)
Awesome, can't wait for part 3! What instructions are you using and where did you find them, I'm about to replace a leaky rear main seal in a Murano.
That oil leak could also be the mating surface between the engine block and the upper oil pan near the main seal...Nissan used RTV everywhere. And I can't imagine tearing the block apart to fix a silly issue like that lol
Draining the swamp Ivan. Now repeal and replace the CVT. 😂
Thanks for sharing this. Its bad enough working on the floor, but filming too must suck!
Nearly 200K on the original ball joints isn't bad. Anyone know who makes Nissan's suspension components? Nissan are a weird manufacturer. They have that tie up with Renault and a lot of the cars they sell here in the UK are basically eurotrash underneath. I also know several companies who supplied Nissan parts but gave up on it because they are awful to deal with. Same companies have no problems with Ford, Toyota, Honda, BMW, Mercedes. etc
Ivan, next time unbolt the rack from the subframe, and let your rack hang. Same with your swaybar.
Got to hand it to you. you must really love auto mechanics to want to do a relatively big job like this!
He's a professional mechanic!
I know pro mechanics that don't take on that type of work, lift or no lift!
makes lunch and prepares for good entertainment :)
Based on what i have seen on these at the nissan dealership a cvt drain and fill should be done every 30,000 miles.
A lot of connections with their Renault division in bolt sizes hey
I'm changing my transfer case on 2010 rogue, I have a engine support bar, my question is, where do i connect my chain's too I don't see any engine hooks on the engine
Hi! Can you please write down the tools you use in the description?
Nice channel!!!!!!!
Enjoy your video is good 👍 and your self and Eric o are good friendship 👬
Pine Hollow Auto are you going to keep the fluid changed in the new trans? and why didnt the fluid get changed in the old one??
I have never seen someone try and take that trans out wihtout pulling it out with the engine on the cross member before good luck tho
do they give you warranty for the gearbox if you swap it yourself ?
Did you have to reflash the ECU after installing the new transmission?
Why haven't you invested in a lift yet?? Man it must suck having to do this with just a jack and jack stands
if you took transmission appart, why are you not trying to rebuild it?
have to drop the exhaust pipe make life more easy to remove starter also and you can take the bracket off with the cv axle and remove diff for less weight for you. taking it out easy it's going back in on the ground lol
Ah excellent. Part 3 coming soon!
With the Subframe removed- what is now supporting the drivetrain? I assume it has other mounts, somewhere on the unibody? That's totally opposite of my car.
Engine and tranny mounts are on the frame so it's safe. When he pulls the tranny, then the engine will have to be supported.