Today I replaced the right front axle today on my wife's 2012 Rogue. Followed your video/instructions exactly. The job went smooth as silk. The axle even slid right out and the replacement slid right in just as easy as yours did in the video. Thanks for a great video and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you just did mine today and this helped out a ton. If anybody else is going to do this feel free to ask me any questions. Took just under 4 hours for me no lift
This is a great video and I was able to do this repair following this video today. One issue was the ball joint removal in the control arm. It would not pry out and I ended up tearing the grease boot on the ball joint prying on it. The rest was flawless. Thank you for putting it together.
Very good video. I would like to say that if you are doing this on the ground with a jack and not a lift like I did, it is easier to remove the 2 lower strut bolts rather that the ball joint bolt.
Great video (same for driver side). The only 2 things I would add: - using a crowbar to prying the old out - tapping the new all the way in (without damaging the threads) Thanks
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and procedure to replace the right front axle on this particular vehicle. Great job creating this video. It is concise and practical. No fluff. I would like to know if you used OEM parts and if not what supplier you opted for instead. Also what was the approximate service life of the old part? My Nissan Rogue is a 2013 2WD model. Not very reliable vehicle, but still worth keeping for occasional use. It has issues with traction due to overheated transmission fluid that I expect to improve adding a transmission oil cooler. Thank you Brian your video is among the best I have seen.
This vehicle at the time was about five years old and we used an aftermarket part. I don’t remember the part numbers offhand. We use a company called Woldpac For parts. I’m glad you like the video. Thank you for watching!
Little tip for anyone stuck with precisely what this guy described. Remove the entire carrier housing and half the old cv as one piece, then you can get all the leverage in the world to beat out the old cv from the carrier. I ended up hammering the carrier onto the new cv for reinstallation, that was about a year ago and knock on wood no issues
You probably dont give a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch all of the new movies and series on instaflixxer. Been streaming with my girlfriend lately =)
In MN this job is a nightmare. Nissan dealer 160 mi away in Duluth quoted $1000 for torn boot. I got the ball joint nut off but bolt is stuck tighter than all get out. Used an air chisel to hammer one side while simultaneously using an impact on other end. Wouldn't budge. My buddy Kenny is coming over tomorrow with a fancy electric coil heating tool to try to break it free. I expect to have similar trouble getting axle out. All for a $30 torn boot.
Thanks for the video. I was a tech for a long time, but I dont currently turn wrenches. This kinda serves as my alldata. Making sure I dont run into that "oh crap, didnt expect that"moment with the car apart.
Please note, I just did the ride side CV axle on a 2011 sv rogue and it's 2 13 mm bolts holding that inner plate in. Also just unbolt the suspension from the hub assembly and you will have more room to work with.
@@jaybenayon3964 you shouldn't need to remove the cv axle completely to just replace a boot and you don't need to perform an alignment on the car when replacing a cv axle. It's when you are replacing the outer tie rod/s is when you need to perform an alignment.
How to Automotive, the support bearing was seized in the bracket like some of the other comments suggested, in my shop I have come to expect this type of challenge living in the Midwest, I did use a flapper wheel on a die grinder to clean up the bracket pocket that the bearing presses into slightly. I checked your video because it was being stubborn and thought there might be a snap ring also retaining or on the inner but your video showed it nice and clear All good! Thanks again!
There needs to be an exclaimer on this. “Unless you live above the rust belt, then just take it to a shop and let them deal with that seized rusted mess due to nissan using shitty parts”
A few ounces? Ha try about 2qts. Still trying to get the bearing loose as it’s seized. Got the bracket bolts loose and it slid out enough that I’m going to take the torch and cut the shafts on either side and use a portable ball joint press To push the old center Barron outlet is in the axle intermediate shaft bracket for the bearing. This has been a pain in the butt! I will be upgrading and getting a Texas Twister and modify it to take the big heavy duty .410 air hammer “zip Gun” shaft as they don’t make the .410 yet on the U portion of the Texas twister as it’s setup for standard air hammer attachments. Ball joint was such a P.I.T.A. that I had to pull upper spindle Assyrian bolts where it connects to the strut. Never had a cv axle this bad. I’ve used penetrating oil, different brands, mapp gas torch the yellow bottle several times. Now I’ll have to get the torch out and cut the shaft either side of the bracket for the press.
NOW THAT IS NO NONSENSE RIGHT TO THE POINT EXCELLENT FULL DESCRIPTIVE/NARRATED VIDEO!!! THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE IT!! Now lol of course I have a question. I HAVE A 2008 NISSAN PATHFINDER SE 4.0 2WD. TODAY I HEARD SOME WEIRD CLICKING/clacking briefly (Right side) I though I was dragging an branch at first. It happened as I backed out of my driveway turning the wheel nearly 180 degrees to the left then back to the right ,,,, yesterday on a long smooth drive I felt as people described a vibration like a tire out of round, no clicking btw and the tires are less than a month old. The vibration was mostly during acceleration then it tended to smooth out. I do not see grease but atm I have not checked the boot...... So very simply will this video be similar if in fact my CV joint is going bad by my description in replacing the CV joints? I figure to do both sides.... Again excellent no nonsense extremely well made video that is giving me the courage to do this myself. I replaced my clock spring a few days ago and was going to make a video but seeing I did not really know what I was doing (WORKED) I did not have the talent to do both. Wish I had taken the time as you did look forward to hearing back from you..
Tmtm20349 it does sound like one of the axles is going bad. Especially with the vibration on acceleration. To determine which one it is can be difficult. You may need help trying to determine which side it's coming from. And as far as the repair it will be very similar to this video that you're watching.
Thanks for the response. I have now started to lean towards the U joint for some reason.... But like you said I needed help. It is in the Nissan Shop today. Depending on their diagnosis and the cost will determine what to do. If in fact it is the axle like were talking about here , I will use this video to do the repair myself. Update to come.
i am about to do this on both sides, and if i am correct... your method does not mess with the alignment ? also im gonna just replace both control arms since i got this car after it was in a lil fender bender heh. hoping the replaced cv axels and control arms will get rid of that damned shake.
Hi, aprox, how many quarter of cvt transmission oil you lost, among you take out the old axle and you install the new axle, thanks greetings from Medellin. Excellen video.
Same boat right now. I'm about to take out the 8 bolts holding the aluminum bearing bracket in and cut the bracket in to pieces and have a new sent for $100. Fk this noise.
I have a 2012 AWD Nissan Rogue. I have 3 questions, Will this be as easy as the video? Is the procedure the same for the opposite side? Any complications that I might run into?
Sir.. have nissan qashqai 2008..have vibration..in right side..i chenge engine and transmission mount is new..i look axle boot is okey..i woud like to know if i need to chenge drive shaft cv axle?
The shaft assembly model number you added according to advanced discount is for a 2017 Nissan Rogue and won’t work on my 2011. Are you sure that’s the right model number?
This is a great video if you own a lift. If you’re doing it at your house without this fabulous lift I would take the strut off. I just did my Infiniti and every book I’ve read says to do it your way. But what I’ve learned is that your way and the way that most dealerships are doing it is with a car lift. Most people don’t have a car lift. They jack the car up. The best way is to take the strut out if you don’t have a car lift. Once you take the strut out it’s very easy to replace the axle. It took me years to figure this out. Most people don’t own a car lift and all of the instructions are for a car lift. Taking the strut out is the best way for the CV axle replacement for the average person who doesn't have a car lift. If you have a car lift your way is the best way. I’m not a professional mechanic but I have professional mechanic friends. I told them about taking the strut out and they said “whatever makes it easy for you, do it”. Your video is an excellent video. Thank you for everything you shared in the video. And my last tip is to buy the Milwaukee 1/2” and the Milwaukee 3/8” impact tools. The ones you’re using in this video. The Milwaukee cordless tools have made working on cars so much fun.
I mark everything. If you don't it's not going to line up. I do this by myself and it so much easier to mark everything. You won't get it lined up properly if you don't have it in the right position. It's a simple job. You can only put it on one way for it to line up. It's very simple to do. After I put it all back together my car always drives straight. I also get a front end alignment after I do this work. Taking the strut off makes this job easier. It only takes me a few minutes to take the strut off and to put it back on. Just make sure you disconnect everything that's attached to the strut. The clip that holds the brake line into the strut has been my only pain. It's not much but sometimes it can be a small problem for a few minutes. It has to slide into place just right. I use a headlamp on my head to see it clearly. There nothing to this job, it's really easy. Especially after I've done it a few times. The first time doing anything is hard. The second time it's easy.
You really don't have to get an alignment if you mark everything. There wasn't any way for my Infiniti to be adjusted as far as alignment goes. Some cars have to go for an alignment after you take the strut off but not with my Infiniti. I always mark everything. After I'm finished doing this job I go for a test drive and check to see if my car is going straight. I've never had a problem ever. Its just safe to go for an alignment after doing anything to your front end. Tires are expensive.
@@royalway12 Just mark the direction that the strut bolt go in. And please use a torque wrench on everything. I didn't use a torque wrench one time and the bolt came loose. Go to HF and get the cheap torque wrench and it will save your life. Using the torque wrench on the tire nuts will keep your wheel studs from breaking and hurting the treads. I use to just use a cordless wrench and found out the hard way why you need a torque wrench. You can damage your rotor also by not using the right torque.
I'm in the middle of doing this job myself. On mine the pinch bolt on the knuckle is stuck. I've tried smacking it, heating it, wrenching it, jacking up the control arm to ease the pressure, LOTS of rust penetrate spray. It's still stuck. Any tips or ideas?
That didn't work on my 2013 Rough. The lower control arm came loose but would not lower enough to clear. Had to reinstall it and then remove the tie rod end and remove the two strut cross bolts. I didn't have to remove the caliper assy. Like some videos show.
@@grabbingkitties7824 Thank you for the info but I've already gotten rid of that Roque. Nissan needs to be throat punched for putting CVT transmissions in them. Anybody reading this DO NOT buy a vehicle with a CVT transmission. I don't care how cheap it is.
@@HowtoAutomotive ok got it. FYI..I ordered the axle you provided in the description, but it came in with a bend washer/ring on the tranny end. Reviews stated similar experiences, so buyer beware. Ended up returning and getting another brand. Crossing fingers. This vid is clear and concise BTW. Thanks for it. Subbing for sure.
@@HowtoAutomotive thanks! ill be providing all the parts. so just take in the cv axle, a cotter pin, and one quart of tranny fluid? is that all? he has a physical shop, so he should have the other stuff.
Had a right axle replaced on my 2013 Rogue and when it was returned the alignment was off. Shouldn’t they have checked that or noticed when they test drive?
charles philippe i've never used one of those infrared cameras. But I think it's a really good idea to use them for checking drawls. Milwaukee makes one i'm sure it's half the price.
DO NOT GO TO A NISSAN DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS- it is cheaper to just replace the axle as they charge $140.00 just to look at it! If you have vibration-noise under acceleration at 40 mph it IS the axle.. The CV boots are the cause as they rupture way to easy- Buy aftermarket because the rubber boots are much better and last longer. Part- 64-100 dollars and instal shop rate for .7 hrs.
ummm that axle never slides out of that support bearing braket that easily, unless its been apart already and the guy before you was nice enough to put antisieze in there. Dont have people thinking they can do this job on the floor at home. Its a Mother Fkr if you dont know what you're doing. Almost always requires a torch to heat that bracket up and get the axle out. You're better off just putting a new inner boot on (OEM boot kit only!) as aftermarket axles quite often cause vibrations when accelerating. OEM axles are expensive but if you like a smooth ride you go with OEM or replace the ripped axle boot before its too late.
I just did it in the driveway. The bearing was badly seized and.I had to pull the bracket and heat it and pound it out. If wasn't for that I could have done the whole job in an hour.
Lionel Lawson Not directly sponsoring the videos but they do supply me with some of the tools. So about 50% of the tools you see me use that are Milwaukee I purchased and the other 50% they supply.I would only recommend tools that I trust and use every day.
Doing battle with an '11 Rogue Pass. side CV axle now. That bastard won't budge! Not only that, but had to completely disconnect the lower control arm - ball joint was free, up until the very top, then seized in the bore of the knuckle. Wasted an hour on that, and now another hour beating the shit out of this CV. Not sure it's ever going to come out! Don't buy Nissans, people. Piles of SHIT!!!
Smitty Smithsonite i've seen this for the axle freezer get stuck in the hub and you need a hub puller OTC makes a good one. I tried linking it up but my phone will allow me to
I appreciate the info. I ended up just getting it out a half hour ago! Took me 2.75 hours of pure battle! Used lots of heat on that aluminum carrier assembly, and just kept beating it with Big Nasty (Astro Pneumatic 4980 air hammer), and a slide hammer. It finally popped out after 3 straight minutes with Big Nasty.. Couldn't believe it. I would've been in real trouble if I had to remove the exhaust in order to remove that carrier assembly - the studs were just globs of rust. Big Nasty FTW! Saved my ass yet again!!
Thanks! Things like this are par for the course living in the rust belt (MA). Seems the newer the vehicle, the more difficult these jobs become. Wish I could time warp back to the late 60's! :)
Haven't done it yet. I'll be using your video this weekend. My stepson has a lift inside his garage. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.@@HowtoAutomotive
Today I replaced the right front axle today on my wife's 2012 Rogue. Followed your video/instructions exactly. The job went smooth as silk. The axle even slid right out and the replacement slid right in just as easy as yours did in the video. Thanks for a great video and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you just did mine today and this helped out a ton. If anybody else is going to do this feel free to ask me any questions. Took just under 4 hours for me no lift
I wish it was that easy. I am doing one right now. What a PITA. Here in NJ with all that snow and salt is another story. Thanks for the video.
learningfromthebest now I can imagine how tough it is up there in New Jersey. Thank you for watching!
Doing same side and project, did the and the rod half stayed in. One hour in and still can't remove it.
This is a great video and I was able to do this repair following this video today. One issue was the ball joint removal in the control arm. It would not pry out and I ended up tearing the grease boot on the ball joint prying on it. The rest was flawless. Thank you for putting it together.
Very good video. I would like to say that if you are doing this on the ground with a jack and not a lift like I did, it is easier to remove the 2 lower strut bolts rather that the ball joint bolt.
Did u need to do alignment?
@@jaybenayon3964 nope
Which bolts?
@@HBARLEE the 2 bolts at the bottom of the strut. Where it connects to the spindle
Great video (same for driver side).
The only 2 things I would add:
- using a crowbar to prying the old out
- tapping the new all the way in (without damaging the threads)
Thanks
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and procedure to replace the right front axle on this particular vehicle. Great job creating this video. It is concise and practical. No fluff. I would like to know if you used OEM parts and if not what supplier you opted for instead. Also what was the approximate service life of the old part? My Nissan Rogue is a 2013 2WD model. Not very reliable vehicle, but still worth keeping for occasional use. It has issues with traction due to overheated transmission fluid that I expect to improve adding a transmission oil cooler. Thank you Brian your video is among the best I have seen.
This vehicle at the time was about five years old and we used an aftermarket part. I don’t remember the part numbers offhand. We use a company called Woldpac For parts. I’m glad you like the video. Thank you for watching!
Doing a job like this right now
The axle not coming out easy as it seems in your video
Great video without annoying music or theatrics
Good video. But if you live in the rust belt like I do, it doesn’t come out like that. Currently fighting one right now.
If you live in the rust belt, this job is a pain the ass. The carrier bearing seizes into the housing and takes some force to get it to let go.
They do not tell you that's lol that's sucks
Little tip for anyone stuck with precisely what this guy described. Remove the entire carrier housing and half the old cv as one piece, then you can get all the leverage in the world to beat out the old cv from the carrier. I ended up hammering the carrier onto the new cv for reinstallation, that was about a year ago and knock on wood no issues
You probably dont give a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch all of the new movies and series on instaflixxer. Been streaming with my girlfriend lately =)
@Gerald Damien Yup, have been using instaflixxer for since december myself :D
In MN this job is a nightmare. Nissan dealer 160 mi away in Duluth quoted $1000 for torn boot. I got the ball joint nut off but bolt is stuck tighter than all get out. Used an air chisel to hammer one side while simultaneously using an impact on other end. Wouldn't budge. My buddy Kenny is coming over tomorrow with a fancy electric coil heating tool to try to break it free. I expect to have similar trouble getting axle out. All for a $30 torn boot.
Thanks for the video. I was a tech for a long time, but I dont currently turn wrenches. This kinda serves as my alldata. Making sure I dont run into that "oh crap, didnt expect that"moment with the car apart.
Please note, I just did the ride side CV axle on a 2011 sv rogue and it's 2 13 mm bolts holding that inner plate in. Also just unbolt the suspension from the hub assembly and you will have more room to work with.
Do u then need a realignment? Is it possible to change the outer boot on right side without removing axel from car?
@@jaybenayon3964 you shouldn't need to remove the cv axle completely to just replace a boot and you don't need to perform an alignment on the car when replacing a cv axle. It's when you are replacing the outer tie rod/s is when you need to perform an alignment.
@@northwestmechanic8991 can u change the outer boot with the full axle still on car? this way u dont have to touch the inner boot?
@@BillSW yes. You can change the boot without taking the full axle out
Do you need to use manufacturer only transmission fluid? Also what was the totally time to do this?
Very well made video, clear instructions with high production quality. Thank you
flackanator1 thank you and thank you for watching!!
How to Automotive, the support bearing was seized in the bracket like some of the other comments suggested, in my shop I have come to expect this type of challenge living in the Midwest, I did use a flapper wheel on a die grinder to clean up the bracket pocket that the bearing presses into slightly. I checked your video because it was being stubborn and thought there might be a snap ring also retaining or on the inner but your video showed it nice and clear All good! Thanks again!
flackanator1 I’m glad I don’t live in the Rust Belt. Simple job can turn into a nightmare real fast there. Thank you for watching
I got a new cv axel with a messed up dust cover that is on the gear side can I remove the dust cover or should I just replace the whole axel
There needs to be an exclaimer on this. “Unless you live above the rust belt, then just take it to a shop and let them deal with that seized rusted mess due to nissan using shitty parts”
Rust sucks you maybe right about taking it to a shop.
A few ounces? Ha try about 2qts. Still trying to get the bearing loose as it’s seized. Got the bracket bolts loose and it slid out enough that I’m going to take the torch and cut the shafts on either side and use a portable ball joint press To push the old center Barron outlet is in the axle intermediate shaft bracket for the bearing. This has been a pain in the butt!
I will be upgrading and getting a Texas Twister and modify it to take the big heavy duty .410 air hammer “zip Gun” shaft as they don’t make the .410 yet on the U portion of the Texas twister as it’s setup for standard air hammer attachments. Ball joint was such a P.I.T.A. that I had to pull upper spindle Assyrian bolts where it connects to the strut. Never had a cv axle this bad. I’ve used penetrating oil, different brands, mapp gas torch the yellow bottle several times. Now I’ll have to get the torch out and cut the shaft either side of the bracket for the press.
I seen the right cv axle to go out more frequently on altimas usually the inner part
NOW THAT IS NO NONSENSE RIGHT TO THE POINT EXCELLENT FULL DESCRIPTIVE/NARRATED VIDEO!!! THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE IT!! Now lol of course I have a question. I HAVE A 2008 NISSAN PATHFINDER SE 4.0 2WD. TODAY I HEARD SOME WEIRD CLICKING/clacking briefly (Right side) I though I was dragging an branch at first. It happened as I backed out of my driveway turning the wheel nearly 180 degrees to the left then back to the right ,,,, yesterday on a long smooth drive I felt as people described a vibration like a tire out of round, no clicking btw and the tires are less than a month old. The vibration was mostly during acceleration then it tended to smooth out. I do not see grease but atm I have not checked the boot......
So very simply will this video be similar if in fact my CV joint is going bad by my description in replacing the CV joints? I figure to do both sides.... Again excellent no nonsense extremely well made video that is giving me the courage to do this myself. I replaced my clock spring a few days ago and was going to make a video but seeing I did not really know what I was doing (WORKED) I did not have the talent to do both. Wish I had taken the time as you did look forward to hearing back from you..
Tmtm20349 it does sound like one of the axles is going bad. Especially with the vibration on acceleration. To determine which one it is can be difficult. You may need help trying to determine which side it's coming from. And as far as the repair it will be very similar to this video that you're watching.
Thanks for the response. I have now started to lean towards the U joint for some reason.... But like you said I needed help. It is in the Nissan Shop today. Depending on their diagnosis and the cost will determine what to do. If in fact it is the axle like were talking about here , I will use this video to do the repair myself. Update to come.
Tmt
m20349
After started leaking grease it gonna start making weird sounds? Wich is the worse can cause this problem? Thank you!
One of the best videos I’ve ever seen your description is perfect thank you
Thank you!
What do you do if you can't just magically pull it out.....
i am about to do this on both sides, and if i am correct... your method does not mess with the alignment ? also im gonna just replace both control arms since i got this car after it was in a lil fender bender heh. hoping the replaced cv axels and control arms will get rid of that damned shake.
Hi, aprox, how many quarter of cvt transmission oil you lost, among you take out the old axle and you install the new axle, thanks greetings from Medellin. Excellen video.
Antonio Stiva It was about a half a quart.
doing this monday sight unseen thanks for the video
I did one of these today. It was actually stuck where the half moon was. Any tips to remove it. I live in rust belt area
Did you ever get it lose? I'm in your boat now.
Same boat right now. I'm about to take out the 8 bolts holding the aluminum bearing bracket in and cut the bracket in to pieces and have a new sent for $100. Fk this noise.
You work easy and good ✌️
Samuel Lopez thank you for watching!
I have a 2012 AWD Nissan Rogue. I have 3 questions, Will this be as easy as the video? Is the procedure the same for the opposite side? Any complications that I might run into?
If you have the tools and a heavy duty compressor and gun you'll be fine. The driver side rarely goes bad but if it does it is slightly more expensive
Sir.. have nissan qashqai 2008..have vibration..in right side..i chenge engine and transmission mount is new..i look axle boot is okey..i woud like to know if i need to chenge drive shaft cv axle?
The shaft assembly model number you added according to advanced discount is for a 2017 Nissan Rogue and won’t work on my 2011. Are you sure that’s the right model number?
Nazir Bible Study I would doublecheck with the van if your parts supplier
is the transmission fluid that came out, engine oil or CVT transmission fluid?
CVT fluid. There are links for in the description of the video. Just hit the little drop-down arrow
Very good video and presentation. Every single steps in detail. Am following you for future videos. Many thanks.
Bigfathand Glad to help. Thank you for watching and following!
Doing this job this afternoon. Thank you !
Good luck and thank you for watching!
I second that, carrier bearing was seized in fought me the entire till I took the whole bracket and beat it out. Otherwise informative video
how did you get the bracket out without taking off the manifold?
This is a great video if you own a lift. If you’re doing it at your house without this fabulous lift I would take the strut off. I just did my Infiniti and every book I’ve read says to do it your way. But what I’ve learned is that your way and the way that most dealerships are doing it is with a car lift. Most people don’t have a car lift. They jack the car up. The best way is to take the strut out if you don’t have a car lift. Once you take the strut out it’s very easy to replace the axle. It took me years to figure this out. Most people don’t own a car lift and all of the instructions are for a car lift. Taking the strut out is the best way for the CV axle replacement for the average person who doesn't have a car lift. If you have a car lift your way is the best way. I’m not a professional mechanic but I have professional mechanic friends. I told them about taking the strut out and they said “whatever makes it easy for you, do it”. Your video is an excellent video. Thank you for everything you shared in the video. And my last tip is to buy the Milwaukee 1/2” and the Milwaukee 3/8” impact tools. The ones you’re using in this video. The Milwaukee cordless tools have made working on cars so much fun.
If you remove the struts, do you have to mark any bolts or anything as far as alignment?
I mark everything. If you don't it's not going to line up. I do this by myself and it so much easier to mark everything. You won't get it lined up properly if you don't have it in the right position. It's a simple job. You can only put it on one way for it to line up. It's very simple to do. After I put it all back together my car always drives straight. I also get a front end alignment after I do this work. Taking the strut off makes this job easier. It only takes me a few minutes to take the strut off and to put it back on. Just make sure you disconnect everything that's attached to the strut. The clip that holds the brake line into the strut has been my only pain. It's not much but sometimes it can be a small problem for a few minutes. It has to slide into place just right. I use a headlamp on my head to see it clearly. There nothing to this job, it's really easy. Especially after I've done it a few times. The first time doing anything is hard. The second time it's easy.
You really don't have to get an alignment if you mark everything. There wasn't any way for my Infiniti to be adjusted as far as alignment goes. Some cars have to go for an alignment after you take the strut off but not with my Infiniti. I always mark everything. After I'm finished doing this job I go for a test drive and check to see if my car is going straight. I've never had a problem ever. Its just safe to go for an alignment after doing anything to your front end. Tires are expensive.
@@erroldillon1548 Thanks.
@@royalway12 Just mark the direction that the strut bolt go in. And please use a torque wrench on everything. I didn't use a torque wrench one time and the bolt came loose. Go to HF and get the cheap torque wrench and it will save your life. Using the torque wrench on the tire nuts will keep your wheel studs from breaking and hurting the treads. I use to just use a cordless wrench and found out the hard way why you need a torque wrench. You can damage your rotor also by not using the right torque.
I'm in the middle of doing this job myself. On mine the pinch bolt on the knuckle is stuck. I've tried smacking it, heating it, wrenching it, jacking up the control arm to ease the pressure, LOTS of rust penetrate spray. It's still stuck. Any tips or ideas?
Hello Benji. So what was the trick? I am in same situation
@@singhsarabjit get a 5lb or more sledge and make sure you beat it with your purse that did the trick for me
@@benjip3232 Thank you! I took easy route, used Ball Joint Separator :) that worked really good.
There is cheap ball joint compressor/extractor tool available on Amazon and Harbor Freight. Cost about. $15-$20.
That didn't work on my 2013 Rough. The lower control arm came loose but would not lower enough to clear. Had to reinstall it and then remove the tie rod end and remove the two strut cross bolts. I didn't have to remove the caliper assy. Like some videos show.
I'm about to have to do this I've put it off long enough. I thought you didn't have to drop the ball joint.
You can do it two ways the ball joint way or the strut way. Removing a strut means you have to remove the brake caliper bracket and rotor as well
@@grabbingkitties7824 Thank you for the info but I've already gotten rid of that Roque. Nissan needs to be throat punched for putting CVT transmissions in them. Anybody reading this DO NOT buy a vehicle with a CVT transmission. I don't care how cheap it is.
Question- is the CVT fluid you are using here compatable with the nissan 999mp-ns200p that is standard with the 2012 rogue ? Can they be mixed ?
Ron Baynes yes this is compatible
It's continuously variable transmission
cvt= continuously variable transmission
03:23 thanks for the laugh after fighting mine for 4 hours. It seems these things rarely just pull out unless it's a low milage car.
What do you mean by matching up the 2 (old and new) axles?
E Dub making sure the splines are the same. Just want to make sure that it’s The right part for the car. Very common to get wrong parts.
@@HowtoAutomotive ok got it. FYI..I ordered the axle you provided in the description, but it came in with a bend washer/ring on the tranny end. Reviews stated similar experiences, so buyer beware. Ended up returning and getting another brand. Crossing fingers. This vid is clear and concise BTW. Thanks for it. Subbing for sure.
minus strees on the ABS wire.... good video.... uplug it next time
do I need to buy extra transmission fluid before taking it into the my mechanic?
Ricky V If you’re going to supply all the parts then yes you’ll need a little bit of transmission fluid.
@@HowtoAutomotive thanks! ill be providing all the parts. so just take in the cv axle, a cotter pin, and one quart of tranny fluid? is that all? he has a physical shop, so he should have the other stuff.
AWESOME video! Thank you very much!
Had a right axle replaced on my 2013 Rogue and when it was returned the alignment was off. Shouldn’t they have checked that or noticed when they test drive?
Mollie Fuller [Student] Yes they should’ve checked that or informed you that it would need a alignment afterwards.
@@HowtoAutomotive do u still need alignment if u just remove two bolts on strut?
@@BillSW if it’s was slotted yes if was just round hole then no.
CVT is Continuously Variable Transmission.
awesome video......
what is the labor time?
Michael Kane If I remember right it’s about an hour and a half
your amazing brain 5 stars again
charles philippe thank you!
charles philippe i've never used one of those infrared cameras. But I think it's a really good idea to use them for checking drawls. Milwaukee makes one i'm sure it's half the price.
interesting ill look it up thank you and i am enjoying my new high torque milwaukee...loving it
FLIR TG 165.....490.00
DO NOT GO TO A NISSAN DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS- it is cheaper to just replace the axle as they charge $140.00 just to look at it! If you have vibration-noise under acceleration at 40 mph it IS the axle.. The CV boots are the cause as they rupture way to easy- Buy aftermarket because the rubber boots are much better and last longer. Part- 64-100 dollars and instal shop rate for .7 hrs.
ummm that axle never slides out of that support bearing braket that easily, unless its been apart already and the guy before you was nice enough to put antisieze in there. Dont have people thinking they can do this job on the floor at home. Its a Mother Fkr if you dont know what you're doing. Almost always requires a torch to heat that bracket up and get the axle out. You're better off just putting a new inner boot on (OEM boot kit only!) as aftermarket axles quite often cause vibrations when accelerating. OEM axles are expensive but if you like a smooth ride you go with OEM or replace the ripped axle boot before its too late.
I've used many after market axles without any issues. I've even had some outlast the originals. What aftermarket brand were you using?
I just did it in the driveway. The bearing was badly seized and.I had to pull the bracket and heat it and pound it out. If wasn't for that I could have done the whole job in an hour.
I cannot believe I paid a shop to do my driver side axle shaft...
Gavin Navarro look at it this way you were probably doing something you’d rather be doing.
How much did they charge you?
Are you sponsored by Milwaukee lol
Lionel Lawson Not directly sponsoring the videos but they do supply me with some of the tools. So about 50% of the tools you see me use that are Milwaukee I purchased and the other 50% they supply.I would only recommend tools that I trust and use every day.
CVT = "continuously variable" transmission, not "constant velocity"
Doing battle with an '11 Rogue Pass. side CV axle now. That bastard won't budge! Not only that, but had to completely disconnect the lower control arm - ball joint was free, up until the very top, then seized in the bore of the knuckle. Wasted an hour on that, and now another hour beating the shit out of this CV. Not sure it's ever going to come out!
Don't buy Nissans, people. Piles of SHIT!!!
Smitty Smithsonite i've seen this for the axle freezer get stuck in the hub and you need a hub puller OTC makes a good one. I tried linking it up but my phone will allow me to
I appreciate the info.
I ended up just getting it out a half hour ago! Took me 2.75 hours of pure battle! Used lots of heat on that aluminum carrier assembly, and just kept beating it with Big Nasty (Astro Pneumatic 4980 air hammer), and a slide hammer. It finally popped out after 3 straight minutes with Big Nasty.. Couldn't believe it. I would've been in real trouble if I had to remove the exhaust in order to remove that carrier assembly - the studs were just globs of rust. Big Nasty FTW! Saved my ass yet again!!
Smitty Smithsonite sorry to hear about all the trouble but I'm glad you got it👍🏻
Thanks! Things like this are par for the course living in the rust belt (MA). Seems the newer the vehicle, the more difficult these jobs become. Wish I could time warp back to the late 60's! :)
Amazing video. Thank you!
David Judd thank you! Did everything go smooth?
Haven't done it yet. I'll be using your video this weekend. My stepson has a lift inside his garage. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.@@HowtoAutomotive
David Judd that’s nice your stepson has a lift. That will make life easier. Good luck with the Axle 👍🏻 and thank you for watching!
A great video. Thanks!
Excellent video!! Thank you.