Thanks very much! I've loved the looks of these drill presses since I was a kid, so getting one for free gave me a great opportunity to learn how they work. I think the Craftsman branded versions are a bit more complex but I haven't found one of those yet.
Thanks! That sounds like a great idea. I had tinted bedliner in my 1976 Silverado and that stuff was tough as nails. I'll need to look into what colors it comes in now. I could just do black.
I have restored several Dunlap tools over the years and think they are well worth the effort. I did not see you lube the column and internal parts. I hope you did lube everything as you put it together so someone does not have to go through all the effort you did getting this apart in 20 years from now. Looks good, good job painting, etc.
Thanks! Yes, I did eventually use grease on the internals. I used Super Lube but if you know of something else I should try on it let me know. I was temped to just use regular axle grease.
Here are a few things to think about regarding the drill press. With the vertical support post, it will continue to rust in the future unless it's protected. A good way to do that is to heat it up in an oven to approximately 300 to 350° F. Remove it from the oven and slather it in light machine oil. Allow it to cool off to room temperature and wipe off the excess oil. The heat of the metal will help the oil to be drawn into the pores thus preventing future rust. No it doesn't last forever but it'll last a long time. Another method of protection is to treat the vertical support post with the same treatment the guns are treated with - gun bluing. You can buy bottles of this agent from firearm shops, places like Walmart or online. Another smart thing to do along with whichever method you choose for your basic rust protection of the support post is to slather it in white lithium grease after the initial method is completed. Not only will the white lithium grease help protect against rust, it'll also be easier to slide the parts stand up and down when you adjust it. Next, you need to start using anti-seize on your bolts and nuts when you put them together. As for the spindle and chuck, you need to go back and seriously grease them up with the same grease you would use with ball bearings. Basically, all moving parts should have lube on them appropriate to the parts. I mention this because it seems that you put all of your parts back together dry... which is the last thing you want to do! I doubt I need to state what happens when you've got metal to metal contact and moving parts. One last bit of advice on future restorations that involve ferrous based parts is to avoid using water on them if it all possible even when rinsing. Water is an oxidizer and is a root cause of rust thus should be avoided. Anyway, I hope that this small bench top drill press serves you well in the future. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Thanks! I think your suggestions for the cooking the shaft like cast iron are better than what I did which was painting a coat of clear enamel on them and then oiling them up. The shaft did eventually get lithium grease in the housing because it didn't seem to glide as easily as it should. Very good point about putting the bolts in dry. Sometimes I show that I oil them and other times I do not and here I clearly should have taken a minute and done that. I guess I was torn on showing the quick assembly/disassembly because I did not show that well earlier. Many times I go back and add more oil to things but since you've pointed it out, I'll now be sure to include that in the video every time. Many thanks for the tips!
One word of caution if you use the heat and oil method to protect something like the vertical post, you want to stick to around 300° F and no more than 350° F because it is possible (even at lower temperatures) to have the phenomenon known as stress relieving take place. In other words, you don't want the tube to twist, bend or otherwise distort from the heat. Something else that may occur with way too much heat is that you simply incinerate the oil which does you no good because it doesn't get absorbed into the metal. As for paint, a lot of guys will do that but if you move the adjustable plate around all the time then the paint just simply gets scraped off as well a clear coat. As for me, for a long time now I have stuck to gun bluing as well as home plating methods in order to stave off rust or other corrosion. If you spend more than an absolute minimum amount of time restoring objects such as the drill press then small homebrew plating tanks are invaluable for restoration. I would encourage you to look into them because they are very cheap and easy to set up. You can build small tanks using scrounged power supplies out of electronic items as well as grab things like Tupperware or used milk jugs, laundry detergent bottles or other simple used plastic bottles that contained a common household item and use them for a tank. You're only limited by what you can scrounge up and the size of the tank you need. Many guys actually buy small pre-built plastic coolers and use those as a tank since they often have a drain cock built-in plus a lid which allows them to be relatively sealed up when not in use. I have been highly successful using copper, cadmium and nickel plating which provides a somewhat chrome-like finish. Cadmium plating provides an excellent finish for protection and provides excellent bite for primer and paint layers. As you might guess, when done correctly, they are all impervious to rust which is what you're really going for with the potential finish being a side benefit because they look nice. Allow me to encourage you to look into the world of TH-cam for a plethora of videos that show you how to accomplish these things and how little it takes to get it done. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Mugsy is my boy. He just showed up on my porch one day shortly after I had moved into this house and I took him in. Some jerk had kicked him in the face, dislocated his jaw and broke a tooth and I guess Mugsy figured I was the one who would take care of him. He's an amazing companion.
Great video, I just picked up a 103.23621, yours is a 103.23622 (mine is the same color you show in the Sears photo - maybe that is the only difference between the two model numbers). Where did you find the Sears photo you show early in the video?
Nice! See if this link will get you that photo: blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AZIL1KO9POA4Nb7UyqVO3v08V8HoNHdYRHNPmT60FHiW1Y3SpvLhB01Y40ZFPOBtUQi0hZ_qRP9z06lGf02IkZdJ1Fxl1gTWytHlCrdHltlij_xXbD17UrjcJjRgLO0VJ3ZP71uF2sg/s1600-h/sears+1956+craftsman.jpg
Thanks! I haven't decided what I'll be doing with this one yet. I have a 1930's Craftsman that I picked up that's a floor model with the heavy base which I will eventually get to. That would likely be my goto drill press.
I did the same thing to a early 50s HOME CRAFT bench top drill press. Disassembled it completely and cleaned it painted it lubed it and it runs perfect. FYI, tops of the pulleys should be level, maybe you can raise the front pulley. Switch box wires should have a connector. All in all a great restoration and clean up! Thanks for the video
@@91Z50 Thanks! I figured as much. I tried to get the front pulley higher. No luck there. It may be just corroded on. It was the only part I couldn't remove. Homecraft was Delta? I have a Delta waiting in the wings to be restored. It's a benchtop but larger than this Dunlap.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
You made that old Dunlap drill press like new. Great video. I enjoyed it very much. Thanks for sharing!
💯💕👊👍
Thanks! It took a few days but was well worth it especially since it was about to be scrapped if I didn't pick it up.
That was a great project and my favorite video rebuild you've done so far.
Thanks! This one took me a while to complete and your saying that made my day.
Good to see that you are well supervised! Another nice project. Great work.
lol! Yes, they like when I'm outside with them. :)
Beautiful restoration I'm impressed with how a little elbow grease and paint will produce such a good looking drill press.
Thanks! Well worth the time and effort. In the end it only cost me about $50 for the pulley and paint.
Excellent work, looks great.
Thanks! It turned out much better than I had thought it would.
I just love that drill. Wow great great job you're really good and I love watching you.
Thanks very much! I've loved the looks of these drill presses since I was a kid, so getting one for free gave me a great opportunity to learn how they work. I think the Craftsman branded versions are a bit more complex but I haven't found one of those yet.
Great job on the impact wrench! I've used spray bed liner in spray cans inside tool boxes to protect them from scratches.
Thanks! That sounds like a great idea. I had tinted bedliner in my 1976 Silverado and that stuff was tough as nails. I'll need to look into what colors it comes in now. I could just do black.
Great work. Looks like brand new.
Thanks! Well worth the effort and minimal expense. This is my favorite design of the Sears Drill Presses.
@@floridarusticrepairs glad to see you took my advice!
@@mikehoroho8453 Yes and thanks!
You're welcome!
She cleaned up like a new penny
Thanks! Well worth the effort to save something like this and get it back to work again.
I have restored several Dunlap tools over the years and think they are well worth the effort. I did not see you lube the column and internal parts. I hope you did lube everything as you put it together so someone does not have to go through all the effort you did getting this apart in 20 years from now. Looks good, good job painting, etc.
Thanks! Yes, I did eventually use grease on the internals. I used Super Lube but if you know of something else I should try on it let me know. I was temped to just use regular axle grease.
Here are a few things to think about regarding the drill press. With the vertical support post, it will continue to rust in the future unless it's protected. A good way to do that is to heat it up in an oven to approximately 300 to 350° F. Remove it from the oven and slather it in light machine oil. Allow it to cool off to room temperature and wipe off the excess oil. The heat of the metal will help the oil to be drawn into the pores thus preventing future rust. No it doesn't last forever but it'll last a long time. Another method of protection is to treat the vertical support post with the same treatment the guns are treated with - gun bluing. You can buy bottles of this agent from firearm shops, places like Walmart or online. Another smart thing to do along with whichever method you choose for your basic rust protection of the support post is to slather it in white lithium grease after the initial method is completed. Not only will the white lithium grease help protect against rust, it'll also be easier to slide the parts stand up and down when you adjust it. Next, you need to start using anti-seize on your bolts and nuts when you put them together. As for the spindle and chuck, you need to go back and seriously grease them up with the same grease you would use with ball bearings. Basically, all moving parts should have lube on them appropriate to the parts. I mention this because it seems that you put all of your parts back together dry... which is the last thing you want to do! I doubt I need to state what happens when you've got metal to metal contact and moving parts. One last bit of advice on future restorations that involve ferrous based parts is to avoid using water on them if it all possible even when rinsing. Water is an oxidizer and is a root cause of rust thus should be avoided. Anyway, I hope that this small bench top drill press serves you well in the future. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Thanks! I think your suggestions for the cooking the shaft like cast iron are better than what I did which was painting a coat of clear enamel on them and then oiling them up. The shaft did eventually get lithium grease in the housing because it didn't seem to glide as easily as it should. Very good point about putting the bolts in dry. Sometimes I show that I oil them and other times I do not and here I clearly should have taken a minute and done that. I guess I was torn on showing the quick assembly/disassembly because I did not show that well earlier. Many times I go back and add more oil to things but since you've pointed it out, I'll now be sure to include that in the video every time. Many thanks for the tips!
One word of caution if you use the heat and oil method to protect something like the vertical post, you want to stick to around 300° F and no more than 350° F because it is possible (even at lower temperatures) to have the phenomenon known as stress relieving take place. In other words, you don't want the tube to twist, bend or otherwise distort from the heat. Something else that may occur with way too much heat is that you simply incinerate the oil which does you no good because it doesn't get absorbed into the metal. As for paint, a lot of guys will do that but if you move the adjustable plate around all the time then the paint just simply gets scraped off as well a clear coat. As for me, for a long time now I have stuck to gun bluing as well as home plating methods in order to stave off rust or other corrosion. If you spend more than an absolute minimum amount of time restoring objects such as the drill press then small homebrew plating tanks are invaluable for restoration. I would encourage you to look into them because they are very cheap and easy to set up. You can build small tanks using scrounged power supplies out of electronic items as well as grab things like Tupperware or used milk jugs, laundry detergent bottles or other simple used plastic bottles that contained a common household item and use them for a tank. You're only limited by what you can scrounge up and the size of the tank you need. Many guys actually buy small pre-built plastic coolers and use those as a tank since they often have a drain cock built-in plus a lid which allows them to be relatively sealed up when not in use. I have been highly successful using copper, cadmium and nickel plating which provides a somewhat chrome-like finish. Cadmium plating provides an excellent finish for protection and provides excellent bite for primer and paint layers. As you might guess, when done correctly, they are all impervious to rust which is what you're really going for with the potential finish being a side benefit because they look nice. Allow me to encourage you to look into the world of TH-cam for a plethora of videos that show you how to accomplish these things and how little it takes to get it done. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
@@MaxGiganteum Thanks Max! I will do that.
I have often said, it is better to have a 70 year old drill press than no drill press at all. 😉
I agree!
Love mugsy too
Mugsy is my boy. He just showed up on my porch one day shortly after I had moved into this house and I took him in. Some jerk had kicked him in the face, dislocated his jaw and broke a tooth and I guess Mugsy figured I was the one who would take care of him. He's an amazing companion.
Great video, I just picked up a 103.23621, yours is a 103.23622 (mine is the same color you show in the Sears photo - maybe that is the only difference between the two model numbers). Where did you find the Sears photo you show early in the video?
Nice! See if this link will get you that photo: blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AZIL1KO9POA4Nb7UyqVO3v08V8HoNHdYRHNPmT60FHiW1Y3SpvLhB01Y40ZFPOBtUQi0hZ_qRP9z06lGf02IkZdJ1Fxl1gTWytHlCrdHltlij_xXbD17UrjcJjRgLO0VJ3ZP71uF2sg/s1600-h/sears+1956+craftsman.jpg
if you are going to keep the drill press and i can find it i have a new keyless ROHM chuck that should fit it will give to you
Thanks! I haven't decided what I'll be doing with this one yet. I have a 1930's Craftsman that I picked up that's a floor model with the heavy base which I will eventually get to. That would likely be my goto drill press.
I did the same thing to a early 50s HOME CRAFT bench top drill press. Disassembled it completely and cleaned it painted it lubed it and it runs perfect. FYI, tops of the pulleys should be level, maybe you can raise the front pulley. Switch box wires should have a connector. All in all a great restoration and clean up! Thanks for the video
@@91Z50 Thanks! I figured as much. I tried to get the front pulley higher. No luck there. It may be just corroded on. It was the only part I couldn't remove. Homecraft was Delta? I have a Delta waiting in the wings to be restored. It's a benchtop but larger than this Dunlap.
Yes Home craft is Delta. Excellent tool