Great fix..The reason you lost 1.8v and had a short on the fet was because at 1hr 6 mins you replaced the K72 transistor the wrong way round. I like the long videos and how you never give up..
Great observeness. The first time is very well visible that the moment he solders it back the markings are the up side down. Though the rest of the times he worked with the gate it's not clear if he continues to solder it wrong but probably he does.
@@northwestrepair Tony, indeed K72 has 1 and 4 pins as ground but the rest have some differences I think at least the markings. This is what I was able to see in the video since I don't have boardviews or schematics for the GPU.
I have never seen so much rework done, and the card got better at each stage. Your patience is Biblical also! Solid step by step approach. I too do not understand why the overtemp won't work correctly.
Why would u leave warranty for a job like this? Seems like a very risky business decission since it has a very high likelyhood of coming back and not because of something u did wrong.
Welcome to my life. Living in a high humidity region is the worst for electronic. In spring, you can see water droplets everywhere on the wall, ceiling, table… you name it. The only season we have normal humidity is autumn.
First mistake brother, I wouldn't have offered a warranty due to customer's environmental conditions. I see this sort of issue when repairing laptops and other computing devices when folks are located near coastal regions or high humidity areas.
My 3070 Ti cost $980+tax (newegg shuffle card) so my 3070ti cost as much as a 408! Some cards mean so much to their owners, like mine! Thanks for showing this card so much respect!
Damnit Tony watching this video I could feel your pain. Please do not try to fix any other rusted card, ever again even if it's mine. You're a hero for making it work but it isn't worth it.
somebody found a gpu in the trash, sends it in for repair, then gets a refund if it fails after a few days. its a bad business model, the condition of the card before the repair should be considered before giving any sort of warranty. you should get paid for your efforts. "the laborer deserves his wage".
Работа проделана огромная👍. Способ и логичность выявления неисправных дермосов очень познавателен, век живи век учись 👍. Осуждать незачто не ошибается только тот кто ничего не делает.
To get rid of corrosion I have good result using just white vinegar in ultrasonic cleaner followed by a second bath in IPA. But then you have to protect exposed tracks/copper to prevent corrosion to come back. Anyway I admire your patience on this repair. Maybe you could have fixed the drmos thermal protection circuit if you had the schematics but at this point it could be anything anywhere.
You know, I've watched 31 minutes of this video so far and I just keep watching... I think I like these long videos. Probably best not to overdo it with them though.
@@paulchamberlain7942 It's super interesting to watch someone combat something like this. When I heard "rust" I was like "This is a lost cause, but if there is any chance of fixing it, this is who could!" hahah
Oooh.. Ow. Get some contact cleaner on there to neutralize the oxidation and clean it up. After diagnosis, I would clean it and then confirm the repair. Once its confirmed I'd poor man conformal coat it with some clear rust-oleum spray paint... just tape off the connectors and heat transfer surfaces first, spray and let dry... then reassemble and confirm again. I have to do this with TVs and CCTV DVR systems that come in from some areas. Some places I get boards from it's corrosion from moisture, some other areas it's some kind of conductive iron or pyrite dust that builds up around components or sometimes it is both. When I see those nasty boards, I make sure it never comes back after its been fixed by coating the repaired boards. You might not be able to save the external connectors like the HDMI ports but simple clear spray paint works on PCBs.
Tony, we do thermal shock (air to air and liquid to liquid) testing to qualify Class 3 boards. That is to veryfy HDI laser via reliability. HDI vias sometimes break on the innerlayers.
Removing the rust is losing the spots of "interest" ... I know technicians that as a first thing they place the board on the ultrasonic cleaner... after that they lose any "hint" on where the issues are located.. and... is a no fix!
yeah i cleaned it it first but that wasnt enough. Chemical i have is made for flux, not for rust so i am not sure if there is a better way to do it because clearly, it was not cleaned very well.
@@northwestrepair Rust is oxidized steel or in PCB's oxidized metals of many kinds, but it rarely goes between the layers of PCB as they are not affected by atmosphere or gases, or liquids for that matter. What removes this is a base solution, something alkali. If you have access to ultrasonic cleaner, simple distilled water and little bit of soda or lye should do the trick, without damaging the PCB, pars on it, or cleaning equipment. Worth a try at least, but it should be pretty fast process. May also require distilled water or alcohol rinse after that to remove any chemical, to not interfere in soldering. Altough most fluxes counteract bases, as they are sort of acid anyway.
problem is u have to clean it, with this damage it could take hours to days... the ammount of rust and different metal oxides, quite litterally makes a very thin layer who partly conduct and dont, and also act as half cunductors and capacitors, so thats why it shows intermittent behaviour.... ..if it wasent sensetive electronics the solution would be a burn in...but that almost certainly will destroy averything worth something on the board.. ..ultrasonic cleanoing repetedly with a solution that can 'eat' oxides .. preferably something that forms a none cunductive oxide rest product... and not any strong acids (avoid using acidius flux) as it will eath the card when heated...
Hey Tony, what a mammoth task.. boy that GPU had gone for a swim in Niagra.. and was sun dried.. hope you get compensated well for the huge time wasted on it.. 👍👍
hello,i not speak english but for me, the first work is one good EVAPORUST "jacuzzi "/ultrasonic for the board, after wash with non mineral water or alcool and for finish heat all for wet and half reflow and search the short or faillure 😅 my intuition is the graphic card an pc is victim of meteo/wheathers , tempest and flood the house ...
You should deny that kind if repair. The video is interesting don't get me wrong. But for your business these repairs are just not sustainable (especially with warranty lol). Whoever owns that card should find a way of preventing this kind of damage
I was going to suggest U506 as the problem as I remember Asus motherboards had an issue a while back where their ON chip was failing and pushing down on it brought the board back to life. Theirs was located up near the memory slots.
Yeah, it surprises me it is so much poking around just trying this and that. I'm coder, and usually the best idea is to isolate problems by cutting problem space in halves, essentially doing binary search. I'm not sure why it is not a viable approach in this case, because it feels that it should be. But instead it is - "let's try to replace this resistor and see what happens". Anyway, I love watching these videos because I feel that I'm not alone spending ridiculous amount of time solving stupid but complex problems and everyone take it for granted.
A fully water damaged board like this should have been an instant warranty void. This isnt a simple rusty hdmi port someone has this near a humidifier or something worse. Even if they get this card back repaired whos to say how bad the rest of the pc it came out of looks.
OMG I loved this one. Was really vested by the end to know what the culprit(s) was by the end. That last test however after replacing the controller and testing for pex, you didn't have the pci-e power plugged in, would that have affected that result?
I wonder if dude’s house is one of those that was done with that chinese drywall a few years back. That stuff emits sulfur gasses that corrode most everything metal.
I'm just here listening to you try to find find hardware faults, while I'm trying to find software faults. Spent the last few hours getting beat down by IBM's faulty database refusing to tell me the original error, which turned out to be a null inserted into a not-null field. But it gets better. The values inserted aren't actually nulls. And I see that both in the code, in the initial data and the final data (after i removed the not null constraints). Meaning IBM is giving me an error for something that isn't actually happening.
I fix consoles and had two Nintendo Wii's Tonight and one of them was full of cockroaches and the other was found with the Titanic, ironically the one with the cockroaches was clean and flawless unlike the rusty one..
Rust on a GFX.. Wonder how that happened.. Yeah, I read the comments below that dust may cause it, but here's the thing: My computer and mobo still in use is a ASUS Sabertooth X79 and my CPU is a Core i7 3960X. Now theese components are 10-12 years old! Since I built the computer, it has been running for 24/7 nearly all that time! And I haven't had one single issue once! So dust to corrode? Then it really have to be humid!
Do they have a emissive air cleaner? Im an hvac tech with broad indoor air cleaner training. Homes that have been convinced that emissive air cleaneres like AIR WAVE or REME Halo discharge high reactive oxicides to "clean the air" Ive seen REME start rust on stainless fridges and ovens etc. I cannot stress enough that emissive "air cleaners" have downstream effects they will not relay accurately.
@hi-friaudioman reminder that UV doesn't clean the air either. UV light requires an exposure time to denature viruses and kill bacteria and fungi of usually several to many minutes depending on what it is. The airstream moves much too fast to provided the required exposure time. UV lights keep the specific surfaces they are installed near sanitized (usually the wet coil) and that is beneficial- but doesn't sanitize the air. You could build one that does, but you'd need a chamber with multiple UV lights in a long run to provide enough exposure time and this isn't really viable in residential - but there are hospital settings that have done it. So if someone tells you to use a UV light to clean the air, they are woefully ignorant of how UV lights actually work or their useful purpose.
I would have fixed this clients board every time but I would never warranty it, never. Maybe this client would prevent this from happening if they had to pay for it each time. I could have a computer for 10 years and never see any rust anywhere on the parts and I live in a humid state surrounded by rivers and lakes and 11 miles from Lake Michigan here in Wisconsin with no air conditioning.
K72 transistor you took off you put back upside down wrong pin #1 location. @1:06:40 and seen again at @1:53:24 the number 1 pin is at the top right when it should be at bottom right at the marking. Cap looks missing (all the others have it) @1:55:57
Strange how after a while of it not being switched on, the GPU pulls current (if I am not mistaken). Then immediately after switching it off and on again it's not pulling current. Every time Tony shows it pulling current it has almost always been after an extended time being switched off, right?
Yeah, rust sucks. I thought I could repair my backup hard drive by removing rust using electrical cleaner, which has worked in the past for my guitar effects pedals etc. No joy. I lost some photos and stuff like when I took my sister to Italy from NZ to see where our Dad's family came from. Oh well. That's the problem with digital formats. They fail. Not like the old packs of photo negatives my mother has from when we were '70s kids. Not like books or vinyl records either.
My offer to this card owner would be "I'm sorry respected customer, but I don't deal with rust damage caused by a poorly maintained system" make an insurance claim on your home contents for a new system.
Legend says this particular GPU was right hand man of the Mongolian warlord and was 20 years battling in the rain forest before returning its duty as a gaming GPU
For a second there I thought he might have transposed the 2.2 ohm resistor and the 0 ohm when was replacing/re-flowing them... but I guess he didn't as the card is working
When someone brings me something this big and rusted, i simply refuse to repair it, too much torture. But to be honest i am no expert and i have no tools to repair SMD parts.
Nortridge will be fix this one on 10 minutes ... :) just joking... this was a massive job ... after i while i want to launch my smartphone on the trash just to not see other corrosions
Great fix..The reason you lost 1.8v and had a short on the fet was because at 1hr 6 mins you replaced the K72 transistor the wrong way round. I like the long videos and how you never give up..
Good catch
Great observeness. The first time is very well visible that the moment he solders it back the markings are the up side down. Though the rest of the times he worked with the gate it's not clear if he continues to solder it wrong but probably he does.
@@nikolaskallianiotis8622 Ye it's a pity it wasn't live fix, we could have saved him a hour..
that transistor has same pinout regardless of the orientation if am not mistaken. Thats why i didnt bother to look for a pin1
@@northwestrepair Tony, indeed K72 has 1 and 4 pins as ground but the rest have some differences I think at least the markings. This is what I was able to see in the video since I don't have boardviews or schematics for the GPU.
Ohhhhhhh, who's gaming on a 3070 under the sea?!
Or Chain vaping and gaming in a dusty room.
sponge bob square pants
Neptune 😁
@@monkeyabout1297 dust wont do that! (i live in the desert) but vaping 100%
probably electric eels
I’m glad rust bothers the shit out of everyone and not just mechanics
seems strange to be glad about such a thing. i'd not be glad if people had to deal with the same annoying stuff i deal with in my trade...
OTOH, following mechanics advice - (no don' use the angle grinder with a brush) bath the entire thing in evaporust + ultrasonic before you even start.
I admire you for even making sure to fix such a damaged graphics card. I would never give any warranty on such a repair
I have never seen so much rework done, and the card got better at each stage. Your patience is Biblical also! Solid step by step approach. I too do not understand why the overtemp won't work correctly.
Why would u leave warranty for a job like this? Seems like a very risky business decission since it has a very high likelyhood of coming back and not because of something u did wrong.
Every time you said 'I don't know' or 'I do no have any idea' you are getting a step further to the goal.
Great work !
Welcome to my life. Living in a high humidity region is the worst for electronic. In spring, you can see water droplets everywhere on the wall, ceiling, table… you name it. The only season we have normal humidity is autumn.
I feel you on that. Maybe not nearly as high of humidity as that, but my office is in my basement. So I have two dehumidifiers running 24/7.
Dehumidifier!
First mistake brother, I wouldn't have offered a warranty due to customer's environmental conditions. I see this sort of issue when repairing laptops and other computing devices when folks are located near coastal regions or high humidity areas.
My 3070 Ti cost $980+tax (newegg shuffle card) so my 3070ti cost as much as a 408! Some cards mean so much to their owners, like mine! Thanks for showing this card so much respect!
Damnit Tony watching this video I could feel your pain. Please do not try to fix any other rusted card, ever again even if it's mine. You're a hero for making it work but it isn't worth it.
finally Tony a longer video, thx bro.
somebody found a gpu in the trash, sends it in for repair, then gets a refund if it fails after a few days. its a bad business model, the condition of the card before the repair should be considered before giving any sort of warranty. you should get paid for your efforts. "the laborer deserves his wage".
Работа проделана огромная👍. Способ и логичность выявления неисправных дермосов очень познавателен, век живи век учись 👍. Осуждать незачто не ошибается только тот кто ничего не делает.
Realy realy nice video, thank you for upload Tony :)
Love the longer videos with this content. Great video.
Ohh niceee grabbing popcorn. Always waiting for longer videos.
To get rid of corrosion I have good result using just white vinegar in ultrasonic cleaner followed by a second bath in IPA. But then you have to protect exposed tracks/copper to prevent corrosion to come back.
Anyway I admire your patience on this repair. Maybe you could have fixed the drmos thermal protection circuit if you had the schematics but at this point it could be anything anywhere.
CONFORMAL COATING Laquer is your best friend. Its a PITA to exclude anything that is clamped with a heatsink.
You know, I've watched 31 minutes of this video so far and I just keep watching... I think I like these long videos. Probably best not to overdo it with them though.
best for you, because you cant help yourself but watch it all :) Don't worry, you aren't alone...
@@paulchamberlain7942 It's super interesting to watch someone combat something like this. When I heard "rust" I was like "This is a lost cause, but if there is any chance of fixing it, this is who could!" hahah
Finally finished watching. It was like a long series of movies, like "Lord of the Rings" or something like that. "Lord of the GPUs", why not😀
For educational purposes OK TO DO THIS ONE TIME, BUT NEVER EVER AGAIN YOU HEAR ME!!!!! Love ur channel mate.
Agreed
Good repair. Keep up good work mate.
NR Fix Sucks, stopped watching it after z-number of connectors fixed.
Oooh.. Ow. Get some contact cleaner on there to neutralize the oxidation and clean it up. After diagnosis, I would clean it and then confirm the repair. Once its confirmed I'd poor man conformal coat it with some clear rust-oleum spray paint... just tape off the connectors and heat transfer surfaces first, spray and let dry... then reassemble and confirm again. I have to do this with TVs and CCTV DVR systems that come in from some areas. Some places I get boards from it's corrosion from moisture, some other areas it's some kind of conductive iron or pyrite dust that builds up around components or sometimes it is both. When I see those nasty boards, I make sure it never comes back after its been fixed by coating the repaired boards. You might not be able to save the external connectors like the HDMI ports but simple clear spray paint works on PCBs.
Tony, we do thermal shock (air to air and liquid to liquid) testing to qualify Class 3 boards. That is to veryfy HDI laser via reliability. HDI vias sometimes break on the innerlayers.
- Doctor, it hurts if I push it here, what should I do?
- Don't press it.
First! Rusty cards? You have to cut rust out, or it will keep coming back....what a pain in the as*....I feel your pain.
Removing the rust is losing the spots of "interest" ... I know technicians that as a first thing they place the board on the ultrasonic cleaner... after that they lose any "hint" on where the issues are located.. and... is a no fix!
yeah i cleaned it it first but that wasnt enough. Chemical i have is made for flux, not for rust so i am not sure if there is a better way to do it because clearly, it was not cleaned very well.
@@northwestrepair Rust is oxidized steel or in PCB's oxidized metals of many kinds, but it rarely goes between the layers of PCB as they are not affected by atmosphere or gases, or liquids for that matter. What removes this is a base solution, something alkali. If you have access to ultrasonic cleaner, simple distilled water and little bit of soda or lye should do the trick, without damaging the PCB, pars on it, or cleaning equipment. Worth a try at least, but it should be pretty fast process. May also require distilled water or alcohol rinse after that to remove any chemical, to not interfere in soldering. Altough most fluxes counteract bases, as they are sort of acid anyway.
Ohhhh
problem is u have to clean it, with this damage it could take hours to days...
the ammount of rust and different metal oxides, quite litterally makes a very thin layer who partly conduct and dont, and also act as half cunductors and capacitors, so thats why it shows intermittent behaviour....
..if it wasent sensetive electronics the solution would be a burn in...but that almost certainly will destroy averything worth something on the board..
..ultrasonic cleanoing repetedly with a solution that can 'eat' oxides .. preferably something that forms a none cunductive oxide rest product... and not any strong acids (avoid using acidius flux) as it will eath the card when heated...
Hey Tony, what a mammoth task.. boy that GPU had gone for a swim in Niagra.. and was sun dried.. hope you get compensated well for the huge time wasted on it.. 👍👍
hello,i not speak english but for me, the first work is one good EVAPORUST "jacuzzi "/ultrasonic for the board, after wash with non mineral water or alcool and for finish heat all for wet and half reflow and search the short or faillure 😅
my intuition is the graphic card an pc is victim of meteo/wheathers , tempest and flood the house ...
1:09:35 buy the NRFix anti glarelight 😂 i waited so long for a new nice long video i love it please more of it ❤️
You should deny that kind if repair. The video is interesting don't get me wrong. But for your business these repairs are just not sustainable (especially with warranty lol). Whoever owns that card should find a way of preventing this kind of damage
If it was me, I definitely would not give warranty even if I attempted the repair.
You should definitely make it clear for a customer with water demaged board, that you will not give any warranty for a fix.
I would literally offer a "it works when you put it back in your system and no more" warranty. And that's risky too...
I was going to suggest U506 as the problem as I remember Asus motherboards had an issue a while back where their ON chip was failing and pushing down on it brought the board back to life. Theirs was located up near the memory slots.
Hi what brand bench power supply is that? The blue one on your desk? Thanks so much, great watch as well as always.
Yeah, it surprises me it is so much poking around just trying this and that. I'm coder, and usually the best idea is to isolate problems by cutting problem space in halves, essentially doing binary search. I'm not sure why it is not a viable approach in this case, because it feels that it should be. But instead it is - "let's try to replace this resistor and see what happens". Anyway, I love watching these videos because I feel that I'm not alone spending ridiculous amount of time solving stupid but complex problems and everyone take it for granted.
Maybe refuse repair for liquid damage...
A fully water damaged board like this should have been an instant warranty void. This isnt a simple rusty hdmi port someone has this near a humidifier or something worse. Even if they get this card back repaired whos to say how bad the rest of the pc it came out of looks.
When you take it out from the freezer it will very quickly be condensation on the card that can make it not work ...
OMG I loved this one. Was really vested by the end to know what the culprit(s) was by the end. That last test however after replacing the controller and testing for pex, you didn't have the pci-e power plugged in, would that have affected that result?
53:02 at this point I say to the client "get a new board"
fair play buddy watching you fix this give me anxiety i felt that pain hahaha
Nightmare repairs endeed good work 💯👏
I wonder if dude’s house is one of those that was done with that chinese drywall a few years back. That stuff emits sulfur gasses that corrode most everything metal.
This is my worst nightmare where I live where humidity is alwaus above 70% all the time. My advice is use an ac+dehumidifier.
I'm just here listening to you try to find find hardware faults, while I'm trying to find software faults.
Spent the last few hours getting beat down by IBM's faulty database refusing to tell me the original error, which turned out to be a null inserted into a not-null field. But it gets better. The values inserted aren't actually nulls. And I see that both in the code, in the initial data and the final data (after i removed the not null constraints). Meaning IBM is giving me an error for something that isn't actually happening.
I'm not sure I've ever seen such an impressive repair but I would give that card a 15 seconds warranty to the customer!
Extremely awesome video
I fix consoles and had two Nintendo Wii's Tonight and one of them was full of cockroaches and the other was found with the Titanic, ironically the one with the cockroaches was clean and flawless unlike the rusty one..
Oh god, I hate cockroach repairs !.
Rust on a GFX.. Wonder how that happened.. Yeah, I read the comments below that dust may cause it, but here's the thing: My computer and mobo still in use is a ASUS Sabertooth X79 and my CPU is a Core i7 3960X. Now theese components are 10-12 years old! Since I built the computer, it has been running for 24/7 nearly all that time! And I haven't had one single issue once! So dust to corrode? Then it really have to be humid!
Do they have a emissive air cleaner?
Im an hvac tech with broad indoor air cleaner training.
Homes that have been convinced that emissive air cleaneres like AIR WAVE or REME Halo discharge high reactive oxicides to "clean the air"
Ive seen REME start rust on stainless fridges and ovens etc.
I cannot stress enough that emissive "air cleaners" have downstream effects they will not relay accurately.
Interesting. That's very good to know. Wth would someone even get one, just seems like a scam when UV exists.
@hi-friaudioman reminder that UV doesn't clean the air either.
UV light requires an exposure time to denature viruses and kill bacteria and fungi of usually several to many minutes depending on what it is. The airstream moves much too fast to provided the required exposure time. UV lights keep the specific surfaces they are installed near sanitized (usually the wet coil) and that is beneficial- but doesn't sanitize the air. You could build one that does, but you'd need a chamber with multiple UV lights in a long run to provide enough exposure time and this isn't really viable in residential - but there are hospital settings that have done it.
So if someone tells you to use a UV light to clean the air, they are woefully ignorant of how UV lights actually work or their useful purpose.
Did you ever replace the 5KA47 Cap you removed at time stamp 1:48:20 as I didn't see you replace it.
I wonder if conformal coating will help prevent rust for this user.
I would have fixed this clients board every time but I would never warranty it, never. Maybe this client would prevent this from happening if they had to pay for it each time. I could have a computer for 10 years and never see any rust anywhere on the parts and I live in a humid state surrounded by rivers and lakes and 11 miles from Lake Michigan here in Wisconsin with no air conditioning.
Living in Hawaii for 3 years rusted my gpu up real good. Ocean two blocks away, wind, humidity. Etc. Whole pc really. Yes , no AC.
should have given a coca cola bath 🛁 😅.
That will clear the rust, but it will also make everything sticky.
That thermal camera is that you're using?
Wow sir whole 2 hours and 30 minutes? 😮😮😮
Dedication 👍
I used to live near a beach, and the salt air rusted everything.
K72 transistor you took off you put back upside down wrong pin #1 location. @1:06:40 and seen again at @1:53:24 the number 1 pin is at the top right when it should be at bottom right at the marking.
Cap looks missing (all the others have it) @1:55:57
Fixed, nice.
Strange how after a while of it not being switched on, the GPU pulls current (if I am not mistaken). Then immediately after switching it off and on again it's not pulling current. Every time Tony shows it pulling current it has almost always been after an extended time being switched off, right?
What about evaporust in ultrasonic or would that just do futher damage?
2 hours in, crazy,, that card is like serveral days work.
hey i was wondering if you could take my evga ftw3 3080 in for repair. it turns on and everything but no post. no clue what to do
mine looks just like that, glad it still works tho
I wonder using an ultrasonic cleaner with white vinegar would work?
Yeah, rust sucks. I thought I could repair my backup hard drive by removing rust using electrical cleaner, which has worked in the past for my guitar effects pedals etc. No joy. I lost some photos and stuff like when I took my sister to Italy from NZ to see where our Dad's family came from. Oh well.
That's the problem with digital formats. They fail. Not like the old packs of photo negatives my mother has from when we were '70s kids. Not like books or vinyl records either.
this could be a mining card that was in say a shed or somewhere there no insulation and there's humidity that gets in it
Tough job!
I can imagine how annoying it is, you cant miss anything that is ment to have voltage
Acid core flux is your friend in situations like this.
Maybe you covered this or I am wrong, it was a long video but I think you reinstalled the K72 transistor upside down?
Ultrasonic cleaned it beforehand?
My offer to this card owner would be "I'm sorry respected customer, but I don't deal with rust damage caused by a poorly maintained system" make an insurance claim on your home contents for a new system.
Even you should have a no fix limit dude ;-)
You should have a no warranty policy with water damage repairs.
guys is too normal for polaris gpus to fail the controller ? to be faulty ? the display rail ? can be the apw8713 or the gs9238
Just drop the card in ultrasonic cleaner with evaporust... 🙃🤗
In hot-humid climate EVERY card has rust in 2 years of usage and up
you guys had it easy
Legend says this particular GPU was right hand man of the Mongolian warlord and was 20 years battling in the rain forest before returning its duty as a gaming GPU
I think next time then will be so much liquid damage, just offeer transfer core and memory to other board, like with cracked pcbi
You should have installed some kind of light in that new test board you have made to show you that it is turned on.
Wtffff. I would've told them no or just do a board swap. Fuckkkk that.
As someone that watches a lot of Golf, this video gives new meaning to "Lift, Clean and Place"! LOL ⛳🏌️♂️😅
58:51 A proper repair tech never breaks things. A proper repair tech just properly fixes it so it can no longer be fixed.
Looks like damage from a powder fire extinguisher. If so, it will keep deteriorating and breaking.
a litle editing will help us learn and enjoy, 2 hours is a lot.
For a second there I thought he might have transposed the 2.2 ohm resistor and the 0 ohm when was replacing/re-flowing them... but I guess he didn't as the card is working
When someone brings me something this big and rusted, i simply refuse to repair it, too much torture. But to be honest i am no expert and i have no tools to repair SMD parts.
The hardest repair bucks ever! Over 2 hours!
how does it rust? are they running it outdoors under a waterfall?
and i know so little i thought he resoldered the k72 transistor the wrong way round at 1h6m
29 minutes in and thinking anytime now you are going to find it and......I just noticed this is over a 2hr video. lol
Evapo-rust. Removes rust like crazy.
just salvage core and memory. Other stuff into garbage. I think there is plenty PCB around with dead core.
Nortridge will be fix this one on 10 minutes ... :) just joking... this was a massive job ... after i while i want to launch my smartphone on the trash just to not see other corrosions
@2:00:44 this guy gets it.
That is oxidation in fact. Only steel is rusting. 😁
Looks like a waterblock leaked 😂
Jist use water and cleaner for sink fro corosion and rust card will be shinny again
Why would you ever give warranty for a repair like this?
The core and vram need to be shifted to a different pcb