can we talk about the fact that the commentators kept saying "this is the wrong way to do it" like bro it's a boulder problem. not math homework like they're saying. there's more than one way to do it
Seriously. It can be interesting when commentators talk about athletes doing things in ways the routesetters didn't anticipate, especially when they're talking about why it's easier or harder than the alternative options or how they'd do it themselves or whatnot, but outright saying it's wrong is just ridiculous.
It's a shame the Olympics didn't give medals separately for each type of climbing. That's the same as telling Usain Bolt that he has to compete in the decathlon and there are no medals for 100m and 200m only. Hope Olympic officials can understand this knowing that climbing is a big thing and each disciplines should be separated from one another.
@@Daemonioros That's huge though as speed is such an isolated discipline. I'd hate to see some of our elite boulder or lead climbing talent injure themselves out of comp trying to learn speed climbing. Eventually they'll separate boulder and lead as well but we already have so many elites that compete and do well in both so I don't mind it.
Thissssss... Is the same if in gymnastics was only an all around event when not all the gymnasts dominate all the apparatus.. For that reason there are separated events
Maybe if there was a speed, boulder and lead event... In speed Miroslaw would be the gold medalist, Jaubert a silver and the Bronze maybe for Iulia kaplina or yiling song... In boulder for Janja, Brooke or any other of the finalists for bronze. and Lead for Jessy pilz, Seo chaehyun and Janja
Janja being a boss Speed climbing Round 1 07:23 Round 2 15:17 Round 3 23:25 Boulder Observation 1:03:46 Boulder 1 1:46:44 Boulder 2 2:24:07 Boulder 3 2:59:18 Lead 4:08:29 Janja realises shes won 4:33:45 Medal ceremony 4:52:05- her medal 4:55:15
Well, at least Janja being incredibly dominant saved us from the clusterfuck that was this format/scoring system, felt like the medalists actually made sense here (as opposed to the men’s competition). Heartbreaker for Brooke though, losing her medal through an uncharacteristic mistake on the lead wall. Also that group hug at the end I can’t
Especially getting almost-top twice in bouldering. I'm new to sport-climbing, but considering there are about 10 or so holds in bouldering, I wonder why they don't implement the hold# and plus system there like in lead. Also, multiplying together the three positions seems somewhat unfair.
While I also felt extremely bad for her especially because she also slipped on lead, even if she would have topped the boulder she would still be second (because Janja needed less attempts for the tops). And she did end up on second place anyway. Don't get me wrong. I loved the way she climbed and her energy and everything and it was really heartbreaking when she slipped on lead as well. I just wanted to point out that, on bouldering, the tops wouldn't really make a a difference (except maybe mentally)
During Boulder problem #1, Brookes static sequence just after the Zone hold was superb. It was well read and immensely more effective than Janja's dynamic sequence that led to multiple falls. 🌟
2:59:55 The synchronized 'woow' from the crowd because of how delicate and solid she did the move all others found impossible. She really is the GOAT of climbing.
I also really didn't like that the guy kept saying "She got it wrong!" If you've ever climbed before you know that everyone solves problems differently. As long as you get to the top, doesn't matter how you do it. That's actually one of the things I love about climbing - you can customize it :).
Agreed...the commentating was an annoyance. Charlie or Matt from IFSC would have been awesome. I think what was missing for all of the athletes was the energy and excitement from the crowd that they are accustomed to during their comps. Such a shame the Pandemic dimmed the debut for this fascinating sport.
Let's not forget about Alexandra Miroslav absolutely obliterating the Speed WR. From 06:96 to 06:84 is a massive improvement. That's like a 100m sprinter beating the WR by like 0.13s.
she is a one trick pony and got obliterated in the far more important parts later. And speed climbing is probably the most useless thing ever. Its just there because it looks cool for the casual viewer
There's no "wrong" way of doing a Boulder problem. The route setters just have an "intended" solution. Made me cringe every time the commentators said that.
Jania is an absolutely outstanding athlete. Also a nice and kind person and very beautiful. Well deserved for you and the brave slovenian people. Greetings from Germany.
@@VictorMarwood they’re saying that janja didn’t even need to do the speed climbing, cause if she had skipped it (and therefore ranked in 8th place) she would still have won the gold medal, only getting 8 points total
this video introduced me to this event. I'm tired from holding my breath watching these women, though I have no idea who they are. Talk about strength and grit under pressure....but ya got just 3 minutes, including any housekeeping. Love it!
Ah yes, Slovenia. The country known for its imperialism, military strength and powerful weaponry. (For those of you who inevitably don't even know where Slovenia is, it's a country in Europe about the size of New Jersey that got itself conquered almost immediately after forming around the year 900 and was then ruled over by Austria until World War I.)
I swear the commentators were being paid per-word during this competition. I wish we had an actual climber commentating so it wasn't just the two of them spouting stats and saying that climbing is a really complex sport for 5 hours straight. I get that its the Olympics, not an IFSC comp but it became almost painful to listen to the repetitive commentary to by the end of the broadcast. ... Amazing climbing done by everyone, but I think we can all see that this combined format is just not ideal for so many reasons.
I was looking for this comment. The lady was okay, but the guy was painful to listen to with the constant "this is NOT the way to do it." Like relax bro, climbers break beta all the time, everyone has their own style. It would be much more enjoyable if they just hired the guy who usually does the ifsc events and get climbers to guest.
It's actually kind of amazing how much they didn't comment on what was happening lol :D Matt where are you bro. Commentary like this is why i didn't like watching sports all my life until i started climbing and then started watching the isfc comps
Garnbret continuing to make route-setters feel ridiculous 😂. Great climbing from all competitors. Deserving medalists and I’m glad that a speed specialists didn’t medal. Give them a separate event then everyone’s happy.
Commentators don't seem to know anything about climbing. And the inclusion of speed climbing seems like some Olympic committee member just wanted to make it dumbed down for viewers, and also doesn't know about or care about climbing.
BROOKE RABOUTOU! 5th place isn't bad, and still my favorite climber.... yes its some bias cuz she was the first person to ever expose me to the epic competitiveness and skill of the sport.... but she's amazing.
Can I watch this without the commentary? I'd still like ambience, but I'd rather not listen to commentary that makes me look like an expert, and I've really only learned about this for, like, a day or so.
really hope they up their game for next season regarding the commentators.... you don't need to talk that much during boulder. it's very clear that they had no experience climbing and it's not enjoyable to listen to if you are a climber.
I'm not even a climber and find the commentary annoying. Like what do you mean they are doing it wrong?? Who is he to tell these pro athletes they are doing it wrong?!
They even said it was to showcase the "more attractive speed competition", at least for the casuals. If not, it would be impossible for a speed specialist to proceed to the finals...where they would, well, almost embarrass themselves in the other disciplines!
this multiplying points system is horrendous. it favours one trick ponys so much. how can you win one part and get absolutely obliterated in the other two like miroslaw and still almost win a medal. This is ridiculous
Agreed. I was noticing that myself. I wondered why they wouldn't have actual climbers and professional climbing commentators doing it, rather than generic "sports" commentators. Maybe to make it more available to people who don't know any climbing terminology? But I didn't know any when I started watching climbing less than a year ago, and I learned.
agreed, honestly the commentary made it boring for me and i kinda lost interest a bit, i was wondering why they didnt have the usual people commentating or have actual climbers do it
If there was ever a doubt in anyones minds against splitting the formats. Remind yourself of world class speed climber Alexandra Miroslaw beating a speed world record, setting an impressive speed climbing time, all whilst not being able to get past establishing on any boulder and falling after second quickdraw on lead, which usually would be a place where you would not even get points for climbing there.
like the mens finals: great show in every way! thank you for sharing it freely. but, what is up with this commentary? i do not understand why it has to be this way? T_T
Akiyo will always be my favourite climber! Maybe not the strongest or most consistent, but people forgetting Akiyo is 10 years older than Janja and was planning to retire but decided to participate at the OG! She managed to adapt to the new style, something no one from her generation was able to, and stayed at the top, year after year finishing in the finals of almost every comp! Constantly giving a challenge to Janja! 2:32:07 wth are they saying?! Are they being paid to lie or have no clue how disappointed people were about the format? Climbers accepted it because it was the ONLY way to participate at the Olympics!
It doesn't matter how big a hold is, it's still a hold. Volumes are not holds. They have no features to grip and a different surface material. Please stop referring to big yellow holds as volumes.
The climbs are not exactly comparable, the men's climbs are more powerful and rely on different climbing strengths that men have, whereas the women bouldering relies on other strengths. So maybe the men's boulders are easier compared to other men's boulders, but they are certainly require more strength than the women's boulders.
@@ememememem592 well, not necessarily, there are a lot of dynamic moves that are technique based rather than just pure power based, and those more technique based dynamic moves are seen in women's boulders. But yea, when it comes to super powerful dynos, you don't often see those in women's boulders. Women's boulders usually require a lot of technique which a lot of the time does mean they are more static.
@@kildarealeksen4140 Its one of the basic movements. Like running, swimming or jumping. It makes more sense to include this than a wide array of other sports. But we can decide this really quickly. Have you ever been to a bouldering gym or gone climbing? If you havent, you have no clue what you are talking about.
4:11:03 As a Slovene, I find it most amusing when English speakers try to pronounce our language. The word he was trying to pronounce is "Šmartno." It was a brave attempt, but a failed one. The "Š" is pronounced as "sh" and the "o" at the end resembles the "o" in "spoiled."
I think there is a catalogue of preapproved routes that have been tested and since the climbers don't see the routes until they come out that is a way to ensure fairness
The speed route is the same for every competition. The others are newly set for each competition. The route setters test them. Of cause it's hard for them because the athletes outperform them, but the setters are an experienced team and invest a lot of time in the setting. Ideally the routes should be exactly so difficult that the athletes all get different scores. Apart from the speed route there is no catalogue of preapproved routes. The routes are new and kept hidden until the observation period.
@@HermitianAdjoint because i was thinking even though it's a combined event, people testing the route must be the real champions since they can make it when athletes struggle...
Suggestions: They need to eliminate speed climbing entirely, and then fix the bouldering scoring system to be hold-based, similar to lead climbing. The bouldering routs were too hard. That's not necessary. You can have multiple climbers getting to the top but with different scores still, based on time. That incorporates a more sensible speed element into bouldering. This eliminates the need to count attempts, because failed attempts already cost time. If there needs to be an additional reward for flashing, simply knock 5 seconds off the time, if it's done in the first attempt. _Add_ the scores from the different events instead of multiplying them. Those suggestions will make this sport a lot more entertaining, and the scoring a less nonsensical. *Oh, and have hire some former climbers to sportscast, so they actually have something informative to say.
I think the scoring system for bouldering is fine. First, if you're thinking the bouldering should be time based, then you don't understand the concept of bouldering. Sometimes the most impressive bouldering feats are done and shown when someone spends all their time and energy on the wall, and they are on the wall the entire time. Also, because climbing is a mental sport as well as physical, sometimes, the boulders aren't "too difficult", just miss read. And difficulty allows for a bit of spread in the scores to occur.
Also, generally, bouldering, speed, and lead, are three separate events, and so scoring doesn't need to be added to make sense. Only when you do a combined comp like this one do scores get multiplied.
Time shouldn't be a factor in bouldering or lead unless necessary. Also with not all moves having similar difficulty in bouldering and there often being multiple options, a hold based scoring system doesn't make sense. The routesetters need to separate climbers and so it needs to be difficult
Fr! It reminded me so much of "traditional" soccer commentating, it's so different from IFSC-level commentating by Matt Groom or the athlete commentators like Stasa haha
can we talk about the fact that the commentators kept saying "this is the wrong way to do it" like bro it's a boulder problem. not math homework like they're saying. there's more than one way to do it
These commentators were painfully bad.
Seriously. It can be interesting when commentators talk about athletes doing things in ways the routesetters didn't anticipate, especially when they're talking about why it's easier or harder than the alternative options or how they'd do it themselves or whatnot, but outright saying it's wrong is just ridiculous.
そのどうりで
I loved how he kept saying "latic acid" like it's a thing
I was really annoyed that the one commentator couldn't just say Janja's name one time without adding 'the world's number one'.
It's a shame the Olympics didn't give medals separately for each type of climbing. That's the same as telling Usain Bolt that he has to compete in the decathlon and there are no medals for 100m and 200m only. Hope Olympic officials can understand this knowing that climbing is a big thing and each disciplines should be separated from one another.
I think they’ll get there eventually.
The next games in france will be Speed seperate and Boulder and lead combined. So a definite improvement but not ideal just yet
@@Daemonioros That's huge though as speed is such an isolated discipline. I'd hate to see some of our elite boulder or lead climbing talent injure themselves out of comp trying to learn speed climbing. Eventually they'll separate boulder and lead as well but we already have so many elites that compete and do well in both so I don't mind it.
Thissssss... Is the same if in gymnastics was only an all around event when not all the gymnasts dominate all the apparatus.. For that reason there are separated events
Maybe if there was a speed, boulder and lead event... In speed Miroslaw would be the gold medalist, Jaubert a silver and the Bronze maybe for Iulia kaplina or yiling song... In boulder for Janja, Brooke or any other of the finalists for bronze. and Lead for Jessy pilz, Seo chaehyun and Janja
I have never done climbing, I’m not even Slovenian, but I cried of joy when Janja received her medal! She was MAGICAL
Amazing!!
Janja coming out to the lead route to the darth vader imperial march theme is just golden. The person in charge needs a raise.
actually seeing janja tired (especially on the lead route) is a first for me. setters actually gave her a run for their money! crazy
No matter when or where, Miho Nonaka's performances are always beautiful. I love you Miho!!!
Janja being a boss
Speed climbing
Round 1 07:23
Round 2 15:17
Round 3 23:25
Boulder
Observation 1:03:46
Boulder 1 1:46:44
Boulder 2 2:24:07
Boulder 3 2:59:18
Lead 4:08:29
Janja realises shes won 4:33:45
Medal ceremony 4:52:05- her medal 4:55:15
Tysm 😊
Yeah I think Japanese community literally calls her Janja the demon queen lmao
Sport’s climbing is so entertaining to watch, I’m so happy they finally uploaded the women’s one
Well, at least Janja being incredibly dominant saved us from the clusterfuck that was this format/scoring system, felt like the medalists actually made sense here (as opposed to the men’s competition). Heartbreaker for Brooke though, losing her medal through an uncharacteristic mistake on the lead wall.
Also that group hug at the end I can’t
Also Akiyo ending her career with an Olympic medal is just so fitting for her incredible career.
I really feel for Brooke Raboutou. She did some superb climbing moves! An incredible effort!
Especially getting almost-top twice in bouldering. I'm new to sport-climbing, but considering there are about 10 or so holds in bouldering, I wonder why they don't implement the hold# and plus system there like in lead.
Also, multiplying together the three positions seems somewhat unfair.
@@UVjoint I think this is an issue which is currently being discussed with IFSC or Olympia!
While I also felt extremely bad for her especially because she also slipped on lead, even if she would have topped the boulder she would still be second (because Janja needed less attempts for the tops). And she did end up on second place anyway.
Don't get me wrong. I loved the way she climbed and her energy and everything and it was really heartbreaking when she slipped on lead as well. I just wanted to point out that, on bouldering, the tops wouldn't really make a a difference (except maybe mentally)
@@UVjoint If the results were added and not multiplied nothing would change in top 4. Pilz would had been 4th
she is also the smallest competitor, always has her own way to solve the problems
It's such a delight watching Janja Garnbret climb
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
@@kildarealeksen4140 hahaha🤣😂 child's play? Don't be jealous if others can do more than you!!
@@kildarealeksen4140 go to the nearest wall and we shall see.
@@kildarealeksen4140 as Hemingway once said, there are three sports. Motor racing, bull fighting and climbing. Everything else is just a game.
@@kildarealeksen4140 Shut-up, why display your ignorance?
No matter how many times I see that final Janja-Miho-Akiyo hug, I will always tear up
The overwhelming feeling of connection they must have felt in this shared pinnacle moment of their careers.
I cried so much when Brooke fell way too early in lead... I would have loved for her to win a medal! She's my inspiration in climbing 😍😍
She was absolutely phenomenal
She was so unlucky not to get a top in bouldering, she really deserved one
She deserved a medal 😭😭❤️
During Boulder problem #1, Brookes static sequence just after the Zone hold was superb. It was well read and immensely more effective than Janja's dynamic sequence that led to multiple falls. 🌟
why@@kdt85
2:59:55 The synchronized 'woow' from the crowd because of how delicate and solid she did the move all others found impossible. She really is the GOAT of climbing.
Brooke did that move a little different but also successful.
Next Olympics can we get commentators that have seen climbing before?
Yes this!
I also really didn't like that the guy kept saying "She got it wrong!" If you've ever climbed before you know that everyone solves problems differently. As long as you get to the top, doesn't matter how you do it. That's actually one of the things I love about climbing - you can customize it :).
@@linguistacaotica yes!!! Exactly my biggest problem with them. Saying “that’s not how the setters intended it”.
Hopefully lol
Agreed...the commentating was an annoyance. Charlie or Matt from IFSC would have been awesome. I think what was missing for all of the athletes was the energy and excitement from the crowd that they are accustomed to during their comps. Such a shame the Pandemic dimmed the debut for this fascinating sport.
Let's not forget about Alexandra Miroslav absolutely obliterating the Speed WR. From 06:96 to 06:84 is a massive improvement. That's like a 100m sprinter beating the WR by like 0.13s.
Yeah! and must be the first time that a wr record breaker does not even get a medal!
Aleksandra Miroslaw (Mirosław really).
Let us please spell names correctly, especially the ones that use latin alphabet....
Nobody cares
speed climbing is just a joke
she is a one trick pony and got obliterated in the far more important parts later. And speed climbing is probably the most useless thing ever. Its just there because it looks cool for the casual viewer
4:27 speed start
1:13:25 bouldering start
3:53:46 lead start
Thx
Thanks!
You deserve way more likes, my friend
Janja is so impressive , it’s absolutely surreal to watch
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
@@kildarealeksen4140 uhhhh
@@kildarealeksen4140 Child's play.... just try one. ;)
@@kildarealeksen4140 climbing is probably physically the most challenging sport ever. If anything football is children's game.
@@saaaanaaaa334 Climbing is meaningless. It's more of an entertainment than a sport.
I've been looking everywhere for this! Finally!
서채현 하나 둘 셋 서채현 화이팅!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
@I am from California whats wrong with this sport?
@@kildarealeksen4140 a llorar a la llorería
Y yooooo, y yo también, oleeee por finnnn podemos verlo!!!!!
There's no "wrong" way of doing a Boulder problem. The route setters just have an "intended" solution. Made me cringe every time the commentators said that.
bad commentators for this, i hope the world cup ones are the olympic ones next time
AMAZING addition to the Olympics 👏👏 Thank you Tokyo for being pioneer in its instauration
Jania is an absolutely outstanding athlete. Also a nice and kind person and very beautiful. Well deserved for you and the brave slovenian people. Greetings from Germany.
Janja could have skipped the speed event entirely.
Absolute Dominance.
Can't wait to see her do it again in 2024.
Aleksandra could've skipped that and she's the one who dominated, what u on about?
@@VictorMarwood The Gold Medal around Janja's neck.
@@budthecyborg4575 u said speed event
@@VictorMarwood they’re saying that janja didn’t even need to do the speed climbing, cause if she had skipped it (and therefore ranked in 8th place) she would still have won the gold medal, only getting 8 points total
She could have skipped the last 2 boulders too. She literally could have skipped more than half the final and still won gold.
this video introduced me to this event. I'm tired from holding my breath watching these women, though I have no idea who they are. Talk about strength and grit under pressure....but ya got just 3 minutes, including any housekeeping. Love it!
The Imperial March playing when Janja walks out for lead is perfect! 4:08:19
Edit: Thanks for the time correction @B Buttons
4:08:19
You mean?
Perfectly fitting of the queen, absolutely dominating with an iron fist
Ah yes, Slovenia. The country known for its imperialism, military strength and powerful weaponry.
(For those of you who inevitably don't even know where Slovenia is, it's a country in Europe about the size of New Jersey that got itself conquered almost immediately after forming around the year 900 and was then ruled over by Austria until World War I.)
Finally! Have been waiting so long for this!
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
all the full replays are available on the official olympic website. you can even disable commentary
@@kildarealeksen4140 haha its child's play?
its criminal really it got uploaded so late...
@@siccodewilt1 Tv rights ...
OMG that group hug at the end.
Epic when Janja walks in with the Imperial March theme 4:08:27. Nothing like big boss music for the final climb
I swear the commentators were being paid per-word during this competition. I wish we had an actual climber commentating so it wasn't just the two of them spouting stats and saying that climbing is a really complex sport for 5 hours straight. I get that its the Olympics, not an IFSC comp but it became almost painful to listen to the repetitive commentary to by the end of the broadcast. ... Amazing climbing done by everyone, but I think we can all see that this combined format is just not ideal for so many reasons.
I was looking for this comment. The lady was okay, but the guy was painful to listen to with the constant "this is NOT the way to do it." Like relax bro, climbers break beta all the time, everyone has their own style. It would be much more enjoyable if they just hired the guy who usually does the ifsc events and get climbers to guest.
It's actually kind of amazing how much they didn't comment on what was happening lol :D Matt where are you bro.
Commentary like this is why i didn't like watching sports all my life until i started climbing and then started watching the isfc comps
The Queen!!! Just amazing.
Imagine if Charlie Bocoe or Matt Groom had done the commentating.
You can just sync up the Epic TV stream to get Matt instead of this garbage.
Garnbret continuing to make route-setters feel ridiculous 😂. Great climbing from all competitors. Deserving medalists and I’m glad that a speed specialists didn’t medal. Give them a separate event then everyone’s happy.
The Imperial March gets me every time.....the force is strong in the goat
A very well deserved podium! So happy for the ladies!
Womens podium was better than Men.... Alberto gines won by luck when Narasaki failed the speed final
they need to make them separate disciplines - speed, bouldering and lead - compete for a medal in each one
At last! But the commentators are not as warm and conversational as they usually are in climbing... I missed that
Or one of the climbers from the qualifiers to join as commentator
"It's visually appealing, especially for the eye" lol
Im so happy Janja won this gold medal. 👏
Commentators don't seem to know anything about climbing. And the inclusion of speed climbing seems like some Olympic committee member just wanted to make it dumbed down for viewers, and also doesn't know about or care about climbing.
next olympic game will have different system anyway. presumably 3 medals
It's a horrible compromise almost no-one wanted anyway. Speed needs to be a separate discipline
Yay! Looking forward to watching this together with my daughter!
Brooke hands down was one of the best! Just had some tough luck! She literally practically topped EVERYTHING! She is my favorite climber :)
What a comeback for seo in Lead she could have surpassed JanJa 🥺. And JanJa what an amazing lady, sheer dominance. Congratulations to all.
"Their arms are getting tired as they fill with lactic acid". Great commentating on arms getting tired in climbing.
BROOKE RABOUTOU! 5th place isn't bad, and still my favorite climber.... yes its some bias cuz she was the first person to ever expose me to the epic competitiveness and skill of the sport.... but she's amazing.
12:39 I will never forget these supporters and as part of the team from Janja. 😄😄
Can I watch this without the commentary? I'd still like ambience, but I'd rather not listen to commentary that makes me look like an expert, and I've really only learned about this for, like, a day or so.
I love the thumbnail, three happy ladies on the podium.
Awesome competition to watch. Raboutou, Pilz and Seo climbing at such beautiful grace and style.
but not winning a medal which really matters.
Why use (unwisely) a thumbnail image SPOILER when the video's title is (blissfully) neutral, concise and precise...?
Almost teared during that 6.84, what an achievement
This was super! Definitely a new fan. 🥰
Thank you ! I have been looking forward to seeing this.
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
@@kildarealeksen4140 what is wrong with you?
@@kildarealeksen4140 climbing is one of the hardest sports out there. I’d like to see you attempt even a V4
really hope they up their game for next season regarding the commentators.... you don't need to talk that much during boulder. it's very clear that they had no experience climbing and it's not enjoyable to listen to if you are a climber.
I'm not even a climber and find the commentary annoying. Like what do you mean they are doing it wrong?? Who is he to tell these pro athletes they are doing it wrong?!
3:59:00 look how Brooke thanks her belayer before starting lead. Class act
i hate the multiplication system. one person getting 4 more holds in lead should not send someone from 1st to 6th. something is wrong there
They even said it was to showcase the "more attractive speed competition", at least for the casuals. If not, it would be impossible for a speed specialist to proceed to the finals...where they would, well, almost embarrass themselves in the other disciplines!
Pls get a commentator who climbs next time plssss!
I love this sport! I love Janja, of course!
poor Seo Chae-hyun :( also the commenters were not saying her last name correctly
this multiplying points system is horrendous. it favours one trick ponys so much. how can you win one part and get absolutely obliterated in the other two like miroslaw and still almost win a medal. This is ridiculous
The commentary is so bad in comparison to that in IFSC in bouldering!! No insight whatsoever!
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
Agreed. I was noticing that myself. I wondered why they wouldn't have actual climbers and professional climbing commentators doing it, rather than generic "sports" commentators. Maybe to make it more available to people who don't know any climbing terminology? But I didn't know any when I started watching climbing less than a year ago, and I learned.
agreed, honestly the commentary made it boring for me and i kinda lost interest a bit, i was wondering why they didnt have the usual people commentating or have actual climbers do it
@@kildarealeksen4140 its childs play?! you do it then
Is Janja the best athlete I have ever seen across all sports????
Today is June 23, 2022 and tomorrow is our nation holiday. There is nothing more beautiful than celebrating with this video.
If there was ever a doubt in anyones minds against splitting the formats. Remind yourself of world class speed climber Alexandra Miroslaw beating a speed world record, setting an impressive speed climbing time, all whilst not being able to get past establishing on any boulder and falling after second quickdraw on lead, which usually would be a place where you would not even get points for climbing there.
Weird and anti climatic scoring system for such a greatly expressive sport.
I'm just hobby climber but it seems the women's routes were overall much harder than the men's.
like the mens finals: great show in every way! thank you for sharing it freely. but, what is up with this commentary? i do not understand why it has to be this way? T_T
The other observation is noting that the mc’s don’t seem like genuine climbing broadcasters which there are several.
My new Fav Sports to watch
Brawo Ola. Po medal w Paryżu albo w kombinacji, albo w wspinaniu szybkościowym.
Janja is already a legend
Akiyo will always be my favourite climber! Maybe not the strongest or most consistent, but people forgetting Akiyo is 10 years older than Janja and was planning to retire but decided to participate at the OG! She managed to adapt to the new style, something no one from her generation was able to, and stayed at the top, year after year finishing in the finals of almost every comp! Constantly giving a challenge to Janja!
2:32:07 wth are they saying?! Are they being paid to lie or have no clue how disappointed people were about the format? Climbers accepted it because it was the ONLY way to participate at the Olympics!
Her name is Akioy surname is Noguchi, great commentary apart from that!
It doesn't matter how big a hold is, it's still a hold. Volumes are not holds. They have no features to grip and a different surface material. Please stop referring to big yellow holds as volumes.
1:46:33 very smart move. Leave some blood on the way down to scare off your opponents from attempting a send.
I reckon they should have let Charlie Boscoe, Matt Groom &/or Alex Honnold commentate .
I am not a rock climber nor do i know anything about it. But it seemed that the second part of this course was harder than the mens. Or maybe I wrong.
Relatively speaking the climb was harder. I think
The climbs are not exactly comparable, the men's climbs are more powerful and rely on different climbing strengths that men have, whereas the women bouldering relies on other strengths. So maybe the men's boulders are easier compared to other men's boulders, but they are certainly require more strength than the women's boulders.
@@kennyduncan7 so would you say the women’s boulders are more static?
@@ememememem592 well, not necessarily, there are a lot of dynamic moves that are technique based rather than just pure power based, and those more technique based dynamic moves are seen in women's boulders. But yea, when it comes to super powerful dynos, you don't often see those in women's boulders. Women's boulders usually require a lot of technique which a lot of the time does mean they are more static.
Finally, Slovenian gold medal events have all been uploaded. Have yet to watch this though.
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
@@kildarealeksen4140 why? What's wrong with this being in olympics
@@TheIllusionCulpritMC Climbing is not sport.
@@kildarealeksen4140 Its one of the basic movements. Like running, swimming or jumping. It makes more sense to include this than a wide array of other sports. But we can decide this really quickly. Have you ever been to a bouldering gym or gone climbing? If you havent, you have no clue what you are talking about.
Glad to see this finally released!
Commentator: “It’s visually appealing, especially to the eye.” 😂
The thumbnail in this video is kind of a spoiler I have to say.
I had to mute the sound while watching this. I just can’t handle the terrible commentary.
Janja Garnbret zanesljivo najboljsa👍 Vec kot zasluzeno😃
The least the commentators could do is pronounce the athletes name correctly. Is it so hard to ask beforehand?
I swear this Olympic climbing DJ is on fire
back to Tokyo, it's interesting to see some boulder/leading guys do speed:D
素晴らしい東京オリンピックでした。
Are we not gonna talk about Jaubert’s cute owl chalk bag.
Of all the commentators available ... they knew practically nothing about the sport -- why!?
4:51:26 Victory Ceremony for Women's Combined Sport Climbing🧗♀️
🥇🇸🇮 🥈🇯🇵 🥉🇯🇵
Finally, i thought u guys would post
It'd be more entertaining if both commentators knew about climbing...
4:11:03 As a Slovene, I find it most amusing when English speakers try to pronounce our language.
The word he was trying to pronounce is "Šmartno." It was a brave attempt, but a failed one. The "Š" is pronounced as "sh" and the "o" at the end resembles the "o" in "spoiled."
just wanna see this and find it here, how lucky!!
This bizarre sport should be excluded from the Olympic Games. It doesn't make any sense. It's child's play. we must dislike and question the IOC.
Miroslav. That was fantastic.
I havea technical question. How do they design the walls? do they test it to know if it's humanly possible to finish it in the given time?
I think there is a catalogue of preapproved routes that have been tested and since the climbers don't see the routes until they come out that is a way to ensure fairness
Off course
The speed route is the same for every competition. The others are newly set for each competition. The route setters test them. Of cause it's hard for them because the athletes outperform them, but the setters are an experienced team and invest a lot of time in the setting. Ideally the routes should be exactly so difficult that the athletes all get different scores.
Apart from the speed route there is no catalogue of preapproved routes. The routes are new and kept hidden until the observation period.
So basically, the speed is boring.
Not equal wit another two
@@HermitianAdjoint because i was thinking even though it's a combined event, people testing the route must be the real champions since they can make it when athletes struggle...
Please upload full replays of:
1. Men's Volleyball
2. Men's beach Volleyball
3. Men's hockey bronze medal match.
4. Modern pentathlon :)
All should be on the Olympics website
Suggestions:
They need to eliminate speed climbing entirely, and then fix the bouldering scoring system to be hold-based, similar to lead climbing.
The bouldering routs were too hard. That's not necessary. You can have multiple climbers getting to the top but with different scores still, based on time.
That incorporates a more sensible speed element into bouldering. This eliminates the need to count attempts, because failed attempts already cost time.
If there needs to be an additional reward for flashing, simply knock 5 seconds off the time, if it's done in the first attempt.
_Add_ the scores from the different events instead of multiplying them.
Those suggestions will make this sport a lot more entertaining, and the scoring a less nonsensical.
*Oh, and have hire some former climbers to sportscast, so they actually have something informative to say.
I think the scoring system for bouldering is fine. First, if you're thinking the bouldering should be time based, then you don't understand the concept of bouldering. Sometimes the most impressive bouldering feats are done and shown when someone spends all their time and energy on the wall, and they are on the wall the entire time.
Also, because climbing is a mental sport as well as physical, sometimes, the boulders aren't "too difficult", just miss read. And difficulty allows for a bit of spread in the scores to occur.
Also, generally, bouldering, speed, and lead, are three separate events, and so scoring doesn't need to be added to make sense. Only when you do a combined comp like this one do scores get multiplied.
this system was only for this olympics next one will have different system anyway. probably 3 disciplines.
Time shouldn't be a factor in bouldering or lead unless necessary. Also with not all moves having similar difficulty in bouldering and there often being multiple options, a hold based scoring system doesn't make sense. The routesetters need to separate climbers and so it needs to be difficult
Fiiinally updated! About time!
The French climber: *"And I'm Jaubert! Do not forget my name, 24601!"*
The commentator at 16:02 HAHAHAH. Spoke so fast oml
Fr! It reminded me so much of "traditional" soccer commentating, it's so different from IFSC-level commentating by Matt Groom or the athlete commentators like Stasa haha
Hi, does anyone know the music that was playing in the background when Akiyo was doing her lead climb?
Awesome. Proud of you