Couple of things id like to point out, great overall video but being a manufacturer and installer we have learned overtime. As someone already mentioned in the comments NEVER Drill into the bottom track, Keep in mind the Wheep holes were created because water finds a way in and must find a way out which is to drain outward by drilling into the track that will allow water to sit below the window frame onto the drywall and wood used as shims and can also cause bowing. Also for the size window you'd want to drill 3 Screws on each side and 3 up top. Another huge tip for a flawless finish tape the outside before you caulk to get a perfect straight line, because keep in mind stucco has lot of textures running your gun against it will leave tons of waves and imperfections which may cause cavities. Another huge tip is to assure to not run their finger on caulking as it cause a "U" shape slope allowing water to sit on the caulking and eventually deteriorating it. If you see the after photo the caulking looks sloppy which I assume obviously they paint at one point. Also do not use regular interior caulking use silicone based caulking. Lastly i noticed there was no interior trim applied to cover the insulation, they sell them when you buy your windows normally. But other than that great video
Very valuable comment. Cheers! I would not say NEVER drill the bottom track. In this example, the window was very wide and would have not kept in place without securing the bottom part. I also conferred with the manufacturer who confirmed the need for securing the window on the bottom track for larger windows. What is obviously missing from the video, is the need to caulk the bottom track holes before and after inserting the screws. The caulking on the outside was painted over after the window job was done. The type of trim you mention was used on the inside. After cutting the excess insulation, flat, self-adhesive window trim was applied. Not my favorite, as I prefer to build a frame with wood, but this job called for speed, and the budget did not allow for the type of trim I would have preferred.
Want to redo my bathroom but my old aluminum window frames comes out 1/4 inch out from the wall. Can I still install or can I bend them in/ cut them. What to do. Please help.
Your suggestions are excellent. I really appreciate you taking the time to leave your detailed tips. It will definitely help me have the better installation. I can see the reason behind them.
Been installing retro fit windows of many different brands and different types of installation for many years. NEVER drill or screw through the bottom track of the new window. You are inviting water to leak into the wall framing of your house. There have been 1 or 2 instances in my experience where the wall was very bowed and maybe a 7 or 8ft. Wide window that didn't want to confirm to the shape of the wall and left a gap at the bottom. In those cases i predrilled the hole in the bottom track put a liberal amount of Silicon in the hole, pulled in the window tight to maintain the seal, then put in the screw, and put more silicone around the screw head and hole to seal it. And not happy about what i had to do. But those are very rare acceptions. When installing a near perfect new window into a 30 year old setteled home sometimes you have to get creative.
The comments about not drilling through the bottom track are basically correct, except on large windows like this one. If you don't add fasteners to the bottom, you are inviting trouble. What I failed to show in the video, is that you have to heavily caulk any hole that you drill in the bottom track. Caulk before and after setting the screws, making sure any gaps around the screws are sealed.
I live in central west Florida and some single/double Hungs and sliders require you to put tap cons in the bottom by code unless there’s metal inside the frame, I’ve heard this complaint before but I just put a bunch of caulk in the screw hole so it seals, no leaks
Excellent video! Placing the video title in text on the display image was really helpful too, it was exactly what I was looking for and that helped me find it. Thank you.
*Great Work* - This should give the average person the confidence to give it a go. However, if you are in Northern Alabama, and don't want to tackle this job by yourself, feel free to reach out to us. Keep putting up more videos!
Lol you think this Mickey Mouse video is really helping homeowners that’s why so many homes are falling apart 😭 being cheap and not investing into someone who invested money into the knowledge as to give you the best work that lasts and saves more money long term. Words of advice when it comes to your home.. don’t be cheap...
An overall excellent video. I thought you done a great job. I have read through the comments and will adjust accordingly with trying not to drill at bottom or at least be concise with sealer.
we have condensation issue with the current aluminum windows. By retrofitting the vinyl over the aluminum like this video, will the aluminum still cause condensation problem ? Or any issues at all with the aluminum frame ?
Don't forget to thoroughly calk any hole you make in the base of the window frame. If the window is not too large, you don't need fixing on the bottom. Good luck!
@@CRAIGALANCOOPER i finished my project and did use the angle grinder. Recently someone recommended to use the oscillating multi tool, that supposedly cuts through the aluminum frame too
My windows are exactly like your old ones, single pane. Got a quote from Anderson this weekend for $20,000 cdn for 6 windows! ha. I hope to do it your way for $3,600 or so. thanks! note I went to Lowes and HD today. THey only let me buy nailing-flange windows or maybe brick mold. Now I have calls out for 'renovation flange' windows like this, but some say the new building code may ban them geesh
Thank you for this video. When applying caulk on the exterior around the window, do you leave the bottom edge without caulk? I’ve seen a retrofit window with flush f fins on stucco wall where the window is caulked on top and sides but not the bottom. Why leave that edge open?
I am not as skilled a caulker as most but do you think you could have done a better job on the top and sides if you masked off the frame and stucco? That said, great video and explanation of the process. I'm looking to do the same on my house and wonder why you wouldn't remove some of the aluminium tracking of the existing window in order to maximize the amount of glass exposure?
+Mike Hixson Masking is not necessary. You don't want to go light on the caulking and sort of want it to ooze out when you press the window in place. Then, you even it out with the finger making sure there are no gaps. I usually do one last pass with a wet soapy (dish detergent) rug to take off any excess. The reason the aluminum frame is left is because it is a major job to take it out as it is usually embedded in the stucco. You either have to saw off the part of the frame that sticks out of the stucco or cut the stucco around the frame and remove the frame, but then you'll have to replace the stucco. On a small size window, it might make a difference but on larger ones, it is not really noticeable. There are many ways to replace a window, and you could go through the trouble of removing the frame entirely. This video shows how to do it the fastest and easiest way. Thanks for watching!
+Mike Hixson If you want to go through the trouble of removing the frame or can do it easily, by all means, go ahead. The advantage of the system in my video is that you don't need to remove it, saving considerable amount of time.
What about flashing the top of the window, I know this one didn't have any, what are your thoughts on flashing, I know it is important but most of my windows have no flashing now. I am reluctant to not put flashing, just because it would be code.
My take is that you don't need flashing. The window should be caulked properly and the seam painted. Note that the flange is also much thinner than a wood trim would be. Lastly, installing flashing on stucco, which isn't smooth, would probably not add much except for a way to trap water!
@@MoulfritProd Thanks I will make a decision when I eventually get the window out and decide but seems you may be right as none of my other windows except which I think might have been one that got recently replaced before I took over the house an has flashing.
@@MoulfritProdLOL. Not a big deal. Messy, but doable. Just get a masonry blade, cut to studs, flash it with self-seal membrane, install window, use bonding agent on old stucco, blend bonding agent with stucco patching product if necessary, nail some chicken wire if a big opening. Works just fine. Did my house with double pane aluminum windows with nailing flanges, still great 40 years later. Vinyl is the easier way/cheaper way, but aluminum will NEVER breakdown like vinyl.
Thank you for the video. I think the one you are installing is different than the one that requires new framing. Do you know what type of window is this one called?
For new framing, you can use a fin window. The fin surrounds the window and you nail the fin to the framing. For retrofit, you use a block window that has no fin. The one in the video is specifically for situations where you need to cover the remaining frame of the old window.. You could use a block window and and trim on the outside, but it ads a lot more work.
@@MoulfritProd I went to the home depot. The guy couldn't find the window. Do you happen to have the part number for the window? Thank you for the great video. 👍
I’ve been installing for a couple months now I wish I would have seen this video before hand.. only thing I do different is predrill holes before mounting onto frame and I’ve been using only NovaFlex caulking
All the professional window installers are pissed to see this video because people see how easy it is to do themselves. Its not rocket science! I agree on no screws on the bottom, but if necessary, seal them yearly ! Good job on the video sir. "Ive been installing retrofit windows for yada yada yada" simple task folks, don't make it sound so difficult.
It depends on how leveled the base of the old frame is. You want the base of your vinyl window to rest on something. The wider, and the thicker this thing is, the better. If your old frame is not leveled, your new window is only going to rest on part of the old frame, or worse, it will be bent out of shape trying to rest on the entire old bottom frame part, especially if your window is wide like the one installed in the video. So yes, it is better to install a leveled piece of molding on which the new window can rest.
TFC_s550 if done correctly it can be almost as good as taking the window down to the rough opening. One of the differences is that you lose some of the window opening since now you have a window within a window. Other things would be with going down to the rough opening you have the opportunity to re-flash the window and seal it properly. it’ll basically be like a new construction. Energy efficiency is going to be the same. It costs a lot more to do it that way especially if you have to redo the brick or stucco wall surrounding the window.
New construction windows have a fin around them that is used to fasten the window to the building frame. You can cut that fin off to fit the window in a retrofit opening. This video however, does not apply to that type of work.
For measurements if I'm taking out the old frame I measured the window frame to frame this will work right? I want the old frame out I am installing hurricane impact Jeld Wen windows in my house.
Wasn't sure how to measure look like from the top of the old frame edge to the bottom of the old frame edge I originally measured the opening of the entire area, OOps had to get creative. Great video!
There is a video where it is cut with a cutting disc. They also nip off the fins with some kind of plier looking tool to make the opening larger. Which will cost more in labor. So it depends on your budget. "Window Replacement / Stucco" by Don Welz th-cam.com/video/VctynwKm3f8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3lzJvwI5CLk3GJIX
I installed a vinyl window at my home but did not install the wood trim, the new window is sitting on the old frame which has an one inch lip. Did I make a big mistake not having the wood trim?
I assume you are talking about the wood trim on the inside. The advantage of the wood trim is for aesthetics and to block any air that might infiltrate. If you are happy with the looks and you don't feel any air exchange, you should be fine.
Great video, but the foaming the interior. Isn't that gonna look messy afterwards? Don't you cover it up with something. Also, the cauching on the outsid looks messy, can't it be done in such a way not to look so apparant?
You do cover the foam with either vinyl slats or with wood molding. The outside caulking is messy but it gets covered by the frame and then you caulk some more all around and even it out with your finger. There is never too much caulk!!
In the house we just bought it is peel and stick vinyl trim that has been caulked. Doesn’t look great... currently searching for alternatives. You could frame out/trim inside the house if it works. Doesn’t work in my situation though...
I agree on a narrower window. But when it is this wide, you have to fasten the bottom or the window will warp. This is according to the manufacturer. Just remember to pre-drill and fill holes with caulking.
That's the whole point. Taking out the old frame from a stucco wall is a ton of work. This is the easy way of replacing a window on a stucco wall, by leaving the old frame in.
Make sure it is a paintable caulking. If you use the "Not Paintable" then the paint will not stick and it will look horrible as the caulking ages and turns yellow.
I just bought a house and I noticed all of my double pane windows only have chaulking (exterior, where the window and stucco meets) on the top three sides, but just not the bottom side. Is that normal? Or should I go and buy chaulking and chaulk the bottom? The problem is some ants are crawling in from the bottom and sticking to the interior vinyl trim, causing it to lift and losing it's stickiness. But it's weird that they never chaulked the bottom on all the windows so i'm wondering if it's bc it's supposed to be that way?
If your windows are vinyl and are covering aluminum windows (like in my video), whoever installed them might have wanted to make sure they would not close any opening through which trapped water could escape. Water can come from a leak or simply condensation. If it can't escape easily, it is going to create damage. I would call someone who knows about windows to have a look at it.
how would you tell if the vinyl windows are covering aluminum windows? if they're not, i'd like to chaulk the bottom and make sure bugs don't get in...
this dude used the wrong caulking. Why would you go cheap on caulk? That Alex 230 latex caulk is not appropriate. If you've seen old Alex caulking in its dried cracked hardened state, you'd be afraid to use it. Spend the extra $2 on GE 100% silicone.
If your window has sliding panels, they will slide easier if the window is level. Also, if your window is vertically plumb, the sides will seal better against the weather.
Not bad, but I like to use silicone and it fails less over time. And you made a huge mistake, you never want to drill hole on the bottom sill/portion if the windows. When water get in there it will run through that and the drainage. You only want to screw hole in on the sides and top portion. Also the wood shims are okay and better than nothing, but you do not what to use wood because it can be damages with water and consideration that you drilled holes in the bottom this might eventually happen. Instead of wood you want some type on plating shims. But I have definitely seem much worse.
Its videos like these that make me want to show the world how it's done. There's literally about 10 things I can list about this "install" that are extremely false. What's really disturbing is if this guy gets people to believe that you can safely hold the window in place with 1×4 while anchoring the window. This man should be ashamed of himself for not only giving false info but possibly putting people in danger if they try that at home.
I do window installations. When I see someone install a window with only a torpedo level I get so irritated. Not accurate. Get larger levels or a laser level.
This Is Not How You Measure Or Install A Window, Not Any Replacement Window Should Be Done In This Fashion. I Have Been Installing Windows All My Life And Own 3 Window Businesses. Every Step Of This Video Is Incorrect.
@@hanoitwin because i am a little to busy but i will eventually. I have had a few of these how to install windows videos pop up in my recommended, and every how to video i have looked at have been wrong. I have not seen one video on how to install a window correctly. Not One. God Bless
You never screw the bottom side of a window, except when you have to. In this case, the window is too wide not to be fastened from the bottom. That was confirmed by the manufacturer.
@@MoulfritProd Why is that, because you want to leave it free for water to get out ? My comment was not aimed at you, it was the original useless, he could have made his comment more useful but giving a reason instead of just saying don't do it.
@@AtomicQuotient My answer was also aimed at the original poster, and I agree with you about useless posts. This said, if you can avoid drilling through the bottom track, all the better. But if your window is too wide, it will need support from the bottom, or it will bend out of shape. Remember to caulk any holes before and after you insert screws! The bottom track is a channel for any water that accumulates. That water is evacuated through the weep holes. That's why people say not to drill through the bottom track.
@@MoulfritProd if the window is to wide, then you put silicone on the bottom center part of the frame to make it hold, once it is installed you add foam on the bottom of the window and it will hardened.
@@MoulfritProd Yeah exactly got to love the constructive comments. Generally people who leave these type of toxic comments don't make videos themselves, hilarious and useless comments.
Thanks for the great comment. I'm sure you're the greatest handyman around. BTW, stucco is not flat. You'll never get a clean line. besides, you need to paint over the caulking. That's how you get the clean line.
Couple of things id like to point out, great overall video but being a manufacturer and installer we have learned overtime. As someone already mentioned in the comments NEVER Drill into the bottom track, Keep in mind the Wheep holes were created because water finds a way in and must find a way out which is to drain outward by drilling into the track that will allow water to sit below the window frame onto the drywall and wood used as shims and can also cause bowing. Also for the size window you'd want to drill 3 Screws on each side and 3 up top. Another huge tip for a flawless finish tape the outside before you caulk to get a perfect straight line, because keep in mind stucco has lot of textures running your gun against it will leave tons of waves and imperfections which may cause cavities. Another huge tip is to assure to not run their finger on caulking as it cause a "U" shape slope allowing water to sit on the caulking and eventually deteriorating it. If you see the after photo the caulking looks sloppy which I assume obviously they paint at one point. Also do not use regular interior caulking use silicone based caulking. Lastly i noticed there was no interior trim applied to cover the insulation, they sell them when you buy your windows normally. But other than that great video
Very valuable comment. Cheers!
I would not say NEVER drill the bottom track. In this example, the window was very wide and would have not kept in place without securing the bottom part. I also conferred with the manufacturer who confirmed the need for securing the window on the bottom track for larger windows. What is obviously missing from the video, is the need to caulk the bottom track holes before and after inserting the screws.
The caulking on the outside was painted over after the window job was done.
The type of trim you mention was used on the inside. After cutting the excess insulation, flat, self-adhesive window trim was applied. Not my favorite, as I prefer to build a frame with wood, but this job called for speed, and the budget did not allow for the type of trim I would have preferred.
Want to redo my bathroom but my old aluminum window frames comes out 1/4 inch out from the wall. Can I still install or can I bend them in/ cut them. What to do. Please help.
Thanks for the tip
Your suggestions are excellent.
I really appreciate you taking the time to leave your detailed tips.
It will definitely help me have the better installation.
I can see the reason behind them.
@@MoulfritProd thanks for clarifying my brother… A big help!
It's videos like these that give me the confidence to tackle these reno jobs. Thank you so much!
So glad to hear that! Good luck with your projects!
Out of all the videos I seen. This been the video that explains it very simple.
Been installing retro fit windows of many different brands and different types of installation for many years. NEVER drill or screw through the bottom track of the new window. You are inviting water to leak into the wall framing of your house. There have been 1 or 2 instances in my experience where the wall was very bowed and maybe a 7 or 8ft. Wide window that didn't want to confirm to the shape of the wall and left a gap at the bottom. In those cases i predrilled the hole in the bottom track put a liberal amount of Silicon in the hole, pulled in the window tight to maintain the seal, then put in the screw, and put more silicone around the screw head and hole to seal it. And not happy about what i had to do. But those are very rare acceptions. When installing a near perfect new window into a 30 year old setteled home sometimes you have to get creative.
Milton Teaney I was going to say the same thing and I have been installing windows for 20 years.
Dido
So you don’t put any screw on the bottom?
The comments about not drilling through the bottom track are basically correct, except on large windows like this one. If you don't add fasteners to the bottom, you are inviting trouble. What I failed to show in the video, is that you have to heavily caulk any hole that you drill in the bottom track. Caulk before and after setting the screws, making sure any gaps around the screws are sealed.
I live in central west Florida and some single/double Hungs and sliders require you to put tap cons in the bottom by code unless there’s metal inside the frame, I’ve heard this complaint before but I just put a bunch of caulk in the screw hole so it seals, no leaks
Excellent video! Placing the video title in text on the display image was really helpful too, it was exactly what I was looking for and that helped me find it. Thank you.
Thanks! Glad I could help!
Best 'how-to' video I've seen here. Clear, concise and clever! thanks!
*Great Work* - This should give the average person the confidence to give it a go. However, if you are in Northern Alabama, and don't want to tackle this job by yourself, feel free to reach out to us. Keep putting up more videos!
I love it!! Great idea about using the existing frames. I might actually tackle one myself to see if I want to take on a whole-house project.
*Great and Easy to instal **Fastly.Cool** Low noisy*
TH-cam is the greatest invention ever. Saving people millions of dollars all around the world. It must piss off contractors so much lol
Lol as a window installer I can say that there is more often than not a lot more troubleshooting that this video did not cover
Lol you think this Mickey Mouse video is really helping homeowners that’s why so many homes are falling apart 😭 being cheap and not investing into someone who invested money into the knowledge as to give you the best work that lasts and saves more money long term. Words of advice when it comes to your home.. don’t be cheap...
@@taylorredd7915 Just because you pay someone doesn't mean it's done properly either.
This is exactly what I needed to install my Jeld-Wen windows. Thanks!
Great video. I didnt know it was so easy and thought it would require masonary/stucco work.
Really appreciate your help my friend, great clear video, hope you're well and having a great day God bless you. Stay safe 👍🙏👍
Glad it helped you! Best wishes!
An overall excellent video. I thought you done a great job. I have read through the comments and will adjust accordingly with trying not to drill at bottom or at least be concise with sealer.
If your window is not too wide, you don't need to drill on the bottom. If you have to, remember to calk all holes.
Thanks for this tutorial....very nice. I was looking to replace all the windows in my house.
Awesome video thank you. I know it is an old video but still valuable today.
Very welcome!
we have condensation issue with the current aluminum windows. By retrofitting the vinyl over the aluminum like this video, will the aluminum still cause condensation problem ? Or any issues at all with the aluminum frame ?
What about foam insulation in the old aluminum frame track??
I will try to install my first window by myself and see how it goes. Thank you
Don't forget to thoroughly calk any hole you make in the base of the window frame. If the window is not too large, you don't need fixing on the bottom. Good luck!
Would you use angle grinder to cut the fin from the original frame, to be able to insert a bit larger window?
would like to know this as well.....
@@CRAIGALANCOOPER i finished my project and did use the angle grinder. Recently someone recommended to use the oscillating multi tool, that supposedly cuts through the aluminum frame too
My windows are exactly like your old ones, single pane. Got a quote from Anderson this weekend for $20,000 cdn for 6 windows! ha. I hope to do it your way for $3,600 or so. thanks! note I went to Lowes and HD today. THey only let me buy nailing-flange windows or maybe brick mold. Now I have calls out for 'renovation flange' windows like this, but some say the new building code may ban them geesh
Thank you for this video. When applying caulk on the exterior around the window, do you leave the bottom edge without caulk? I’ve seen a retrofit window with flush f fins on stucco wall where the window is caulked on top and sides but not the bottom. Why leave that edge open?
Drainage for any trapped water.
I am not as skilled a caulker as most but do you think you could have done a better job on the top and sides if you masked
off the frame and stucco? That said, great video and explanation of the process. I'm looking to do the same on my house and wonder why you wouldn't remove some of the aluminium tracking of the existing window in order to maximize the amount of glass exposure?
+Mike Hixson
Masking is not necessary. You don't want to go light on the caulking and sort of want it to ooze out when you press the window in place. Then, you even it out with the finger making sure there are no gaps. I usually do one last pass with a wet soapy (dish detergent) rug to take off any excess.
The reason the aluminum frame is left is because it is a major job to take it out as it is usually embedded in the stucco. You either have to saw off the part of the frame that sticks out of the stucco or cut the stucco around the frame and remove the frame, but then you'll have to replace the stucco. On a small size window, it might make a difference but on larger ones, it is not really noticeable.
There are many ways to replace a window, and you could go through the trouble of removing the frame entirely. This video shows how to do it the fastest and easiest way.
Thanks for watching!
Sounds good!
+Mike Hixson
Forgot to mention that you still need to paint around the new window, covering the caulking.
+MoulfritProd What about removing the aluminum frame or al least grinding down to get a bigger window in the hole?
+Mike Hixson
If you want to go through the trouble of removing the frame or can do it easily, by all means, go ahead. The advantage of the system in my video is that you don't need to remove it, saving considerable amount of time.
What kind of trim would you use on the interior?
This is exactly what I was looking for!!! Thanks for the info and steps!!!
Glad you found me!
What about flashing the top of the window, I know this one didn't have any, what are your thoughts on flashing, I know it is important but most of my windows have no flashing now. I am reluctant to not put flashing, just because it would be code.
My take is that you don't need flashing. The window should be caulked properly and the seam painted. Note that the flange is also much thinner than a wood trim would be. Lastly, installing flashing on stucco, which isn't smooth, would probably not add much except for a way to trap water!
@@MoulfritProd Thanks I will make a decision when I eventually get the window out and decide but seems you may be right as none of my other windows except which I think might have been one that got recently replaced before I took over the house an has flashing.
Fantastic video. Do you have any tips for safely removing interior shutters to allow for the removal of the sliding window?
Hi Chris, not sure what you mean by interior shutters. Can you give me more information, maybe I can help. Cheers!
What a shame our HOA doesn't allow retrofit windows. Any recommendation on the entire frame removal ?
Always possible, but a true nightmare. You need to saw through the stucco which means rebuilding the stucco after installing a new block window.
@@MoulfritProdLOL. Not a big deal. Messy, but doable. Just get a masonry blade, cut to studs, flash it with self-seal membrane, install window, use bonding agent on old stucco, blend bonding agent with stucco patching product if necessary, nail some chicken wire if a big opening. Works just fine.
Did my house with double pane aluminum windows with nailing flanges, still great 40 years later.
Vinyl is the easier way/cheaper way, but aluminum will NEVER breakdown like vinyl.
Thank you for the video. I think the one you are installing is different than the one that requires new framing. Do you know what type of window is this one called?
For new framing, you can use a fin window. The fin surrounds the window and you nail the fin to the framing. For retrofit, you use a block window that has no fin. The one in the video is specifically for situations where you need to cover the remaining frame of the old window.. You could use a block window and and trim on the outside, but it ads a lot more work.
@@MoulfritProd I went to the home depot. The guy couldn't find the window. Do you happen to have the part number for the window? Thank you for the great video. 👍
Freaking fantastic video! Thank you!
Where can I buy retrofit windows like that?
Good Video but how do I do it if I am replacing the same window type you show with a picture window. There are no tracks so where do I screw it in?
Great video and narration!! Kudos to you!
I’ve been installing for a couple months now I wish I would have seen this video before hand.. only thing I do different is predrill holes before mounting onto frame and I’ve been using only NovaFlex caulking
All the professional window installers are pissed to see this video because people see how easy it is to do themselves. Its not rocket science! I agree on no screws on the bottom, but if necessary, seal them yearly ! Good job on the video sir. "Ive been installing retrofit windows for yada yada yada" simple task folks, don't make it sound so difficult.
As a professional installer I'm not "pissed" just wanting help diyers not make expensive mistakes.
is the wood piece molding necessary on the bottom of the window?
It depends on how leveled the base of the old frame is. You want the base of your vinyl window to rest on something. The wider, and the thicker this thing is, the better. If your old frame is not leveled, your new window is only going to rest on part of the old frame, or worse, it will be bent out of shape trying to rest on the entire old bottom frame part, especially if your window is wide like the one installed in the video. So yes, it is better to install a leveled piece of molding on which the new window can rest.
what happens ot the inside edge gaps of the window where the shims are placed into?
Does this defeat the energy saving purpose or is it the same as replacing the whole thing? Been dying to give this a try but still kind of confused
TFC_s550 if done correctly it can be almost as good as taking the window down to the rough opening. One of the differences is that you lose some of the window opening since now you have a window within a window.
Other things would be with going down to the rough opening you have the opportunity to re-flash the window and seal it properly. it’ll basically be like a new construction. Energy efficiency is going to be the same. It costs a lot more to do it that way especially if you have to redo the brick or stucco wall surrounding the window.
No drip flashing installed?
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ best description on youtube
You are the best!
Can I borrow your father's car?
Why do you not put caulking over the weep holes (bottom part of window) on the new window at the finish?
The weep holes are there to channel out water that collects in the window track.
Can you use new construction windows as replacement windows?
New construction windows have a fin around them that is used to fasten the window to the building frame. You can cut that fin off to fit the window in a retrofit opening. This video however, does not apply to that type of work.
Awesome video, just what I needed to know!!
Thanks!
For measurements if I'm taking out the old frame I measured the window frame to frame this will work right? I want the old frame out I am installing hurricane impact Jeld Wen windows in my house.
would be better to measure from outside of window since that the openning you have to squeeze the window through?
Wasn't sure how to measure look like from the top of the old frame edge to the bottom of the old frame edge I originally measured the opening of the entire area, OOps had to get creative. Great video!
awesone great video!👍💯
Thank you 👍
There is a video where it is cut with a cutting disc. They also nip off the fins with some kind of plier looking tool to make the opening larger. Which will cost more in labor. So it depends on your budget. "Window Replacement / Stucco" by Don Welz th-cam.com/video/VctynwKm3f8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3lzJvwI5CLk3GJIX
Can you remove the window shims after the foam is dry?
Just trim whatever is sticking out. Don't try to take the whole shim out.
My HOA requires aluminum framing on the outside. Can Jeld Wen meet this requirement?
I suggest you talk to someone at the Home Depot in windows and doors.
I'd sell the house and move to a home that isn't in a hoa.
@@mooosestang then do it
@@mysticwine I'd never buy a house in a HOA, nothing to do.
How do I remove a single pane picture window?
I installed a vinyl window at my home but did not install the wood trim, the new window is sitting on the old frame which has an one inch lip. Did I make a big mistake not having the wood trim?
I assume you are talking about the wood trim on the inside. The advantage of the wood trim is for aesthetics and to block any air that might infiltrate. If you are happy with the looks and you don't feel any air exchange, you should be fine.
Just what i was looking for....
Windows are next
Very helpful for us, thank you!!
Great video, but the foaming the interior. Isn't that gonna look messy afterwards? Don't you cover it up with something. Also, the cauching on the outsid looks messy, can't it be done in such a way not to look so apparant?
You do cover the foam with either vinyl slats or with wood molding. The outside caulking is messy but it gets covered by the frame and then you caulk some more all around and even it out with your finger. There is never too much caulk!!
It's not complete. What about the window casing on the inside. The way it is, the foam and the big gap in which it sits is visible.
He said "before applying trim" which is a step that was skipped. I'm trying to imagine what sort of trim one would use to enclose the foam. Any ideas?
In the house we just bought it is peel and stick vinyl trim that has been caulked. Doesn’t look great... currently searching for alternatives. You could frame out/trim inside the house if it works. Doesn’t work in my situation though...
i agree with milton. just screw in the frame on left/right sides...not bottom
I agree on a narrower window. But when it is this wide, you have to fasten the bottom or the window will warp. This is according to the manufacturer. Just remember to pre-drill and fill holes with caulking.
Handyman Brian I
In Florida if you install Hurricane windows you screw the top sides and bottom that is the code in Florida for this type window
Why was the old frame not taken out ?
That's the whole point. Taking out the old frame from a stucco wall is a ton of work. This is the easy way of replacing a window on a stucco wall, by leaving the old frame in.
What brand window did you use that has the trim like that?
Excellent video!
Great video! Thank you very informative.
martin hernandez Thanks! Glad you like it.
I about ready to do that exact thing. thank you.
Very helpful, thank you!
thank u I feel confident I can do it my self
what type and brand of chalking does JW windows recommend ?
JW does not recommend any specific caulking or brand. I would use a good window and door caulking.
the same as one uses in a billiard parlor
Make sure it is a paintable caulking. If you use the "Not Paintable" then the paint will not stick and it will look horrible as the caulking ages and turns yellow.
Lovely
I just bought a house and I noticed all of my double pane windows only have chaulking (exterior, where the window and stucco meets) on the top three sides, but just not the bottom side. Is that normal? Or should I go and buy chaulking and chaulk the bottom?
The problem is some ants are crawling in from the bottom and sticking to the interior vinyl trim, causing it to lift and losing it's stickiness. But it's weird that they never chaulked the bottom on all the windows so i'm wondering if it's bc it's supposed to be that way?
If your windows are vinyl and are covering aluminum windows (like in my video), whoever installed them might have wanted to make sure they would not close any opening through which trapped water could escape. Water can come from a leak or simply condensation. If it can't escape easily, it is going to create damage. I would call someone who knows about windows to have a look at it.
how would you tell if the vinyl windows are covering aluminum windows? if they're not, i'd like to chaulk the bottom and make sure bugs don't get in...
Hard to say without seeing the windows. That's why I recommend having someone looking at it.
Use pesticide rather than sealing the holes shut.
Great video - thanks
Great job!
Awesome
Music has me going to Knotts
Go easy on the insulation spray... as it expands it can bow your window frame and the slider won't close right.
Is there an alternative to the spray? I saw someone on TH-cam use PROSOCO AirDam. Any others?
You can always fill the gap with fiber insulation. Make sure you caulked any small gaps before.
this dude used the wrong caulking. Why would you go cheap on caulk? That Alex 230 latex caulk is not appropriate.
If you've seen old Alex caulking in its dried cracked hardened state, you'd be afraid to use it.
Spend the extra $2 on GE 100% silicone.
I'm with you on the GE!!! I used it for a sink
What’s your opinion on the Quad Max silicone?
Nope silicone is not printable. Use OSI quad. Last forever, comes in tons of colors and can be painted if desired.
Awesome!!! Thanks.
Why does nobody show how to trim out the inside?
I usually make sure the window looks square in the frame- not so important for it to be level.
If your window has sliding panels, they will slide easier if the window is level. Also, if your window is vertically plumb, the sides will seal better against the weather.
Not bad, but I like to use silicone and it fails less over time. And you made a huge mistake, you never want to drill hole on the bottom sill/portion if the windows. When water get in there it will run through that and the drainage. You only want to screw hole in on the sides and top portion. Also the wood shims are okay and better than nothing, but you do not what to use wood because it can be damages with water and consideration that you drilled holes in the bottom this might eventually happen. Instead of wood you want some type on plating shims. But I have definitely seem much worse.
Never use silicone unless where visible because you cant paint it.
We use Quad by osi.
PVC
Decent job.
+WindowReplacementAgencyWisconsin
Not a bad comment, coming from you guys!
Cheers!
NEVER NEVER screw in the bottom of a window like you see here.
You failed to show trimming interior of window.
I'll have to make a video of just the trimming as several people have mentioned that!
Weep holes are no good. Bugs get in there and debris and it clogs the holes.
Its videos like these that make me want to show the world how it's done. There's literally about 10 things I can list about this "install" that are extremely false. What's really disturbing is if this guy gets people to believe that you can safely hold the window in place with 1×4 while anchoring the window. This man should be ashamed of himself for not only giving false info but possibly putting people in danger if they try that at home.
You have no idea what you are talking about.
Let's not use a water based caulk for an exterior application.
Please come to my house and read me a bedtime story
Whenever you're ready!
Noooooo never screw on the drain side!!!!!! 😩😳😖😤😱😱😰
Cheap Express way of installing, will fail...vinyl expands greater than Aluminum and caulking shrinks...and Jeld-Wen is a low quality product.
I do window installations. When I see someone install a window with only a torpedo level I get so irritated. Not accurate. Get larger levels or a laser level.
Never ever ever drill holes or put screws on the bottom of the track you WILL HAVE WATER PROBLEMS
You MIGHT want to wear safety glasses.
Wear goggles and gloves do not be careless . For your safety
Don’t ever drill the bottom track
Boooo Jeld-Wen. Most basic and cheap window possible. Better windows are available than retail garbage
Sure. But not everyone can afford them.
This Is Not How You Measure Or Install A Window, Not Any Replacement Window Should Be Done In This Fashion. I Have Been Installing Windows All My Life And Own 3 Window Businesses. Every Step Of This Video Is Incorrect.
Why don’t you make a video of the proper way then?
@@hanoitwin because i am a little to busy but i will eventually. I have had a few of these how to install windows videos pop up in my recommended, and every how to video i have looked at have been wrong. I have not seen one video on how to install a window correctly. Not One. God Bless
Well I’m getting ready to install 3 windows and I’m getting tips from these videos here on TH-cam, looks like I’ll have leaky windows.....
YOU NEVER SCREW THE BOTTOM SIDE OF A WINDOW!!!!
I love comments and this, don't do this and no reason why ... at least tell people why to make your comment useful
You never screw the bottom side of a window, except when you have to. In this case, the window is too wide not to be fastened from the bottom. That was confirmed by the manufacturer.
@@MoulfritProd Why is that, because you want to leave it free for water to get out ? My comment was not aimed at you, it was the original useless, he could have made his comment more useful but giving a reason instead of just saying don't do it.
@@AtomicQuotient My answer was also aimed at the original poster, and I agree with you about useless posts. This said, if you can avoid drilling through the bottom track, all the better. But if your window is too wide, it will need support from the bottom, or it will bend out of shape. Remember to caulk any holes before and after you insert screws! The bottom track is a channel for any water that accumulates. That water is evacuated through the weep holes. That's why people say not to drill through the bottom track.
@@MoulfritProd if the window is to wide, then you put silicone on the bottom center part of the frame to make it hold, once it is installed you add foam on the bottom of the window and it will hardened.
That installer was sloppy
Great comment. I'm sure you don't even know what a window is.
MoulfritProd oh ya wanna bet?
Yawn...
I have to agree, my company has been installing windows and doors for 38 years now, and yes this installer was sloppy.
Yeah everything about this install is wrong. Dudes a hack or atleast a swindler.
Hey people, we have an expert here!
Thanks for your constructive comment, dude.
And by the way, I'm both a hack and a swindler.
@@MoulfritProd Yeah exactly got to love the constructive comments. Generally people who leave these type of toxic comments don't make videos themselves, hilarious and useless comments.
This dude did a shit job on the caulking. Mask those windows and the stucco for some clean lines.
Thanks for the great comment. I'm sure you're the greatest handyman around. BTW, stucco is not flat. You'll never get a clean line. besides, you need to paint over the caulking. That's how you get the clean line.
👍
If windows are on second-story can I do this from inside the bedrooms?
You can.